All language subtitles for 3. Edit Tab - Stabilizing your footage Edit Tab Kolder Creative

So in my
timeline here, I have two different clips.

I have this first clip of me
on a slack line.

It's a bit of a shaky shot.

And then I also have this time
lapse of a mountain over here.

Both of these are examples of clips
that I would want to stabilize.

So the first thing you want to do in
the edit tab is

you want to hit shift
tab to reveal your inspector.

Or you can just press the inspector
over here by enabling it.

And under video, we're going to on
to navigate to stabilization.

Now, by default,
this is going to be turned off.

You have to manually enable it
and select stabilize in order

to actually stabilize anything.

So we're going to enable it over here.

And honestly, 100% of the time,
does it matter what I'm stabilizing?

I'm always going to start off
in the mode perspective.

This is the one that works
most of the time,

and most of the time
just does the best job.

This is the one that I always
start off with.

So I just make sure that this dropdown
right here is set to perspective.

Underneath this dropdown
we have the camera lock option

and that allows us to basically remove
all motion from our video

so that the camera looks like
it's locked on a tripod.

Now this setting works well,

but it only works
well in specific situations

and we're going be learning
more about that in this lesson.

Now, this zoom box over here basically
just allows us to tell the program

whether or not it has permission to zoom
in on our image or not.

When these programs stabilize our video,
they are physically moving the video,

they're rotating it, scaling it
and changing the position

in order to compensate
for the original camera movement.

Now, if we leave Zoom unchecked,
then we're basically telling the program

that we're not giving a permission
to zoom in on our image.

So we'll probably see black
borders, we'll see the tops and the edges

of our image moving left and right,
rotating around and changing in position.

And most of the time
you're not going to want that.

So you're just going to
want to leave. Zoom checked.

And under that, we have a couple
more settings that we can change here.

The first one is cropping ratio.

So the thing you need to understand
about stabilizing

your footage is that the program
is going to crop in on your image.

It needs to crop in in order
to create artificial camera movement

that compensates
for the original camera movement.

So it needs to crop in a little bit
in order to do that.

Essentially, this cropping ratio value
just limits how hard the stabilizer

tries to stabilize.

And the thing we need to understand about
this is the higher the number,

the less it's going to stabilize.

So if we have cropping ratio set to one,
it's not going to stabilize anything.

We're not going to see any difference.

The lower this number,
the more we are allowing the program

to stabilize our footage.

So with the cropping ratio value,
we are basically telling DaVinci

how much we are allowing it
to crop in on our image.

So basically the lower

the number in theory, the better
the stabilization should be, the higher

the number here, the closer
we will be to the original footage.

So this next value over here
allows us to apply

mathematical smoothing to the analyze
data used to stabilize the clip.

Basically, what this means is
DaVinci had to create a virtual camera

that kind of does the opposite movement
of the original movement

in order to compensate
for those original movements.

And basically what we are doing here
is applying mathematical smoothing

to that analyze data.

Basically that virtual camera

that DaVinci made to compensate
for the original movement.

We are applying smoothing to that data
over there, but to keep things

plain and simple, basically the higher

the number here, the smoother
the shot is going to be.

The lower the number,

the more of the natural camera motion
you're going to have in the shot.

Now, this last strength value over here
is something that I don't really touch.

But basically what this does
is it allows you to choose

how much of the original camera motion
you want to show through.

So it's basically like a blend slider
that allows you to choose how much of the

stabilization track you want to use versus
the original camera movement.

Now, the thing to understand here
is that when this is out,

when you're using the full stabilization
track, once you start to go below one,

then you use less
and less of the stabilization track

and more and more of the original camera
motion up until you hit

zero zero is going to be no stabilization.

So when you're at zero here,
you can enter it manually as well.

This is basically the original footage.

Once you start going below zero

than the actual original camera
movements are intensified.

So this is a slider I never really touch.

I always just leave it at one.
You can reset it right here.

And it's not something
that I've really had to use yet.

Now, the thing about changing any of these

parameters over here is you need to click
stabilize after you've made any changes.

So if I've already stabilized my clip
and I make a change to the cropping ratio,

it's not going to change
anything in the clip.

I'm going to have to click stabilize again
in order to actually process

those changes.

Same thing goes for Zoom. Same
thing goes for camera.

Lock All of these different parameters
down here.

If we make any changes, click stabilize.

After you've made those changes.

Now, before I click stabilize,
let's quickly watch this original video.

Now, it might not look too shaky,

but there is actually quite
a bit of movement here.

If we zoom in on the mountains
in the background over here,

which is a zoom in on those
and just take a look,

we can see how they're shaking
pretty abruptly.

That does not look like smooth movement.

You can tell that this is handheld.

They're kind of moving back and forth
and that simply just doesn't look good.

So I'm going to command Z,
bring that back to its original size

so we can see that
this shot is pretty shaky.

Let's click
stabilize and see what happens.

And the awesome thing
about the stabilization

intervention is it's really fast.

So now that we've stabilized the clip,
let's zoom in over here to the mountains

and we can

see they're a lot less jittery before
there is a lot more jitter.

Things have definitely smoothed out.

Now, let's play around this even more,
the cropping ratio.

Let's bring that down.

Let's bring the smoothness up
a bit and let's click stabilize again.

Now, let's take a look,
see if this looks any better.

Looks pretty good.

Why don't we bring this smoothness up
even more?

Those mountains are looking pretty smooth.

I'm liking them

much smoother.

Now, let's take a look at what
this would look like

if we change the cropping ratio to one.

Let's click stabilize.

And we can see,
just like how I had said before,

if we use the cropping ratio to one,
then it basically does nothing.

This is our original footage.

We are basically telling the program
to not do any cropping

and therefore without any cropping it's
not able to actually stabilize.

So as I said before, literally 100%
of the time I'm always using perspective.

First, Da Vinci does have explanations
as to how similarity and translation work,

but in all honesty,
I just haven't been able to find success

in selecting the right
one for this certain situation.

For me, a lot of the time
it's really just a guessing game.

But perspective works for most situations.

And if I'm not having any luck with that,
which is honestly pretty rare,

then I'll jump over to similarity
or translation

and play around
with those to see which one works best.

So just for fun, I want to show you guys

what this clip would look like
if I selected the camera lock option.

So let's click
stabilize and see what happens.

Now you can see
we've punched in a ton on our image.

We are like probably zoomed in like,
I don't know, a thousand or 2,000%.

And basically the reason that is, is
because we are telling the program

that we want this shot to look as though
it is locked off in order for this shot

to actually look like it's on a tripod
and it's locked off.

You need to be filming the same thing,
right?

You need to be filming
in the same direction.

If you're shooting a landscape
and you do a 180 turn,

it's literally impossible to make that
look as though it's a static shot right.

So that's basically what's happening here.

If I reset this stabilization,
we can scrub through this clip

and we can see that the camera angle
changes substantially and really

the only constant within this entire shot
is this area right here in this tree.

And that's basically what the program did,
is it zoomed in on that tree

and tried to do its best to make
this look like a locked off shot.

So that brings me to the next clip
over here, which is a time lapse

which was shot on a moving camera.

And this is a perfect example of
when I would

want to use this camera lock feature.

So this was taken on a camera
that was moving.

It was not stills.

So basically,
if we zoom in on this mountain over here

and we press play, we can see this
mountain moving all over the place.

So basically what I would want to do in
this situation

is to tell the program that I basically
want this to look like a stationary shot.

I want it to look like
the camera was locked off.

So all I got to do is hit back
camera lock button over here,

and we can see that we no longer
have any of these options down here.

Those disappear once we enable that.

So with camera lock selected, let's press,
stabilize and see what we got.

We can see that we've punched
in on our image a little bit.

Now, let's zoom in on to this mountain
and take a look.

Much more stable.

We can see that
it is kind of warping a little bit,

and that's because that's
what the program is actually doing.

It's literally warping the image

in order for it to feel like
it's staying in the same place.

Now, when we playback this video fast
by scrub through it like this, we can see

that warping a bit more clearer,
but we are not playing it that fast

and making those slight warps
throughout time in real time.

To the naked eye, you can't really tell.

So it works.
It does a great job in this shot.

Looks like it's static.

Now the cool thing about stabilization

within the cut tab and edit tab
is that they are the exact same.

So if we open up the inspector over here,
we have a clip selected in our timeline.

We have that exact
same stabilization feature right here,

and it works exactly the same.

So it doesn't matter what page you're on,

the cut page or the edit page, the
stabilization feature is exactly the same.

So that's it for this video
I hope you guys enjoyed.

I hope you learn something new
and I'll catch you in the next one.