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These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:07,547 --> 00:00:09,981 This is a battle ground. 2 00:00:22,963 --> 00:00:27,366 In many places, the sea is forcing the land to retreat, cutting back its cliffs 3 00:00:27,534 --> 00:00:32,267 and leaving islands and towers as markers of the territory that the land has lost 4 00:00:33,006 --> 00:00:34,667 The debris is swept away 5 00:00:34,841 --> 00:00:38,902 and strewn on beaches farther down the coast as sand and gravel. 6 00:00:43,350 --> 00:00:46,183 In some places, the land is advancing. 7 00:00:46,419 --> 00:00:50,617 In the tropics, mangroves are moving out into the sea, gathering mud 8 00:00:50,790 --> 00:00:53,918 and building new territory for land-living creatures. 9 00:00:56,429 --> 00:00:57,919 Even in the mouths of rivers, 10 00:00:58,098 --> 00:01:02,762 where fresh water laden with sediment mingles with the salt water of the sea, 11 00:01:02,936 --> 00:01:06,736 new land is being created of a sort. 12 00:01:12,078 --> 00:01:15,275 I'm in an estuary in the west of England. 13 00:01:15,515 --> 00:01:20,885 You might think that this mud is not the most attractive stuff in which to live. 14 00:01:21,188 --> 00:01:25,955 Certainly, animals that do live in it have to face some severe problems. 15 00:01:26,226 --> 00:01:29,957 Part of their time they're out of water like this, 16 00:01:30,197 --> 00:01:32,529 part of the time they're underwater. 17 00:01:32,799 --> 00:01:34,767 The saltiness of the water, too, varies. 18 00:01:34,935 --> 00:01:39,201 Fresh water comes down from the land, the tides bring in salt water. 19 00:01:39,439 --> 00:01:45,002 And then there's the nature of this extraordinarily sticky mud itself. 20 00:01:45,946 --> 00:01:48,642 It is so glutinous that little oxygen gets into it 21 00:01:48,815 --> 00:01:53,445 but the rewards for enduring these unpromising conditions are high. 22 00:01:58,158 --> 00:02:01,355 Edible particles deposited on the surface of the mud 23 00:02:01,528 --> 00:02:06,591 are cautiously sucked up by the searching siphon of Scrobicularia, 24 00:02:06,833 --> 00:02:11,827 a mollusc whose main body, enclosed in a shell, hides in the mud for safety. 25 00:02:12,305 --> 00:02:15,706 A tiny crustacean, Corophium, half an inch long, 26 00:02:15,875 --> 00:02:18,969 grazes on the bacteria which proliferate in millions, 27 00:02:19,246 --> 00:02:22,215 breaking down rotting organic matter in the mud. 28 00:02:24,117 --> 00:02:25,448 Ragworms live in burrows 29 00:02:25,619 --> 00:02:30,056 and will tackle Corophium, algae, bacteria, almost anything that's around. 30 00:02:38,999 --> 00:02:41,524 The puddles are flecked with floating mucus. 31 00:02:41,701 --> 00:02:45,501 It is produced by spire shells, no bigger than grains of wheat. 32 00:02:45,772 --> 00:02:50,232 The mucus attracts bacteria, and the spire shells eat the lot. 33 00:03:03,957 --> 00:03:07,484 The peacock worm fans out its tentacles from the top of its tube 34 00:03:07,661 --> 00:03:10,653 to gather food particles before they settle. 35 00:03:23,043 --> 00:03:25,273 Beating threads on each filament of the fan 36 00:03:25,445 --> 00:03:28,710 transport the catch down to the mouth at the centre. 37 00:03:33,253 --> 00:03:36,950 While it feeds, it also disgorges a cement of mud and mucus 38 00:03:37,123 --> 00:03:39,318 and builds up the margin of its tube. 39 00:03:45,765 --> 00:03:47,960 The cockle lies with its shell agape, 40 00:03:48,134 --> 00:03:51,661 filtering the water by sucking it in through one siphon... 41 00:03:53,740 --> 00:03:56,641 ...and blowing it out through another. 42 00:03:58,745 --> 00:04:01,771 Mussels use the same technique, collecting within their shells 43 00:04:01,948 --> 00:04:07,580 substantial quantities of the abundant and nutritious drifting particles. 44 00:04:13,059 --> 00:04:16,256 When the tide goes out, they clamp their shells tightly together 45 00:04:16,429 --> 00:04:19,694 to keep in their moisture and to keep out attackers, 46 00:04:19,999 --> 00:04:22,331 but some creatures know how to deal with that. 47 00:04:31,544 --> 00:04:35,878 Each oyster-catcher has its favourite technique for dealing with mussels. 48 00:04:36,249 --> 00:04:38,683 It is usually the same as that used by its parents 49 00:04:38,852 --> 00:04:44,222 though a bird needs years of practice before it becomes really expert. 50 00:04:44,691 --> 00:04:49,151 Some hunt in the shallow waters for mussels that have not yet shut their shells. 51 00:04:53,767 --> 00:04:57,794 Others carry unattached shells away from the main flock 52 00:04:57,971 --> 00:04:59,598 so they've got a little privacy. 53 00:04:59,906 --> 00:05:04,775 They skilfully place the mussel in such a position that they can cut it open along its hinge. 54 00:05:18,224 --> 00:05:21,751 Other individual birds resort to brute force. 55 00:05:21,995 --> 00:05:24,463 They hammer their way in through the shell itself. 56 00:05:35,308 --> 00:05:39,438 As the tide retreats still further, spire shells are exposed, 57 00:05:39,612 --> 00:05:43,605 as many as 35,000 buried within a single square yard. 58 00:05:43,850 --> 00:05:47,115 All these mud feeders together constitute a rich prize, 59 00:05:47,287 --> 00:05:49,482 and there are abundant claimants. 60 00:06:03,770 --> 00:06:06,739 Sandpipers, on migration, depend on them, 61 00:06:06,906 --> 00:06:10,899 but at all times of the year, wading birds come to the estuaries to feed. 62 00:06:14,113 --> 00:06:16,741 The godwit, equipped with long legs and a long bill, 63 00:06:16,916 --> 00:06:18,884 can wade in water several inches deep 64 00:06:19,052 --> 00:06:21,987 and collect food before it can be reached by other birds. 65 00:06:23,823 --> 00:06:26,291 The curlew prefers to work out of water. 66 00:06:26,659 --> 00:06:29,890 Its long bill enables it to probe deep into the mud for a worm, 67 00:06:30,129 --> 00:06:32,620 and serves equally well as a pair of forceps. 68 00:06:37,604 --> 00:06:40,869 The dunlin is a smaller bird and goes for smaller prey: 69 00:06:41,107 --> 00:06:42,574 Ragworms and insect larvae. 70 00:06:42,876 --> 00:06:45,470 It feels for its food with its short bill. 71 00:07:09,269 --> 00:07:11,396 The ringed plover, with a very short bill, 72 00:07:11,704 --> 00:07:15,265 can only collect food from the surface and locates it by sight. 73 00:07:15,542 --> 00:07:19,672 It works alone so that its prey won't be disturbed by pattering feet 74 00:07:19,846 --> 00:07:22,212 and withdraw before being spotted. 75 00:07:24,517 --> 00:07:26,075 The scything action of the avocet 76 00:07:26,252 --> 00:07:28,584 collects creatures that live in the liquid mud. 77 00:07:37,830 --> 00:07:41,698 Their bills are very sensitive. As soon as they close on something edible, 78 00:07:41,868 --> 00:07:44,462 the bird can juggle it up into its mouth. 79 00:08:25,378 --> 00:08:29,712 The quantities of food taken by wading birds from estuaries is enormous. 80 00:08:29,882 --> 00:08:34,376 Some species consume every day about a third of their own weight in food. 81 00:08:34,554 --> 00:08:37,114 In a year, a single oyster-catcher 82 00:08:37,290 --> 00:08:40,316 can consume the flesh over half a ton of cockles, 83 00:08:40,593 --> 00:08:44,962 and many an estuary supports tens of thousands of wading birds, 84 00:08:45,164 --> 00:08:47,462 so these places are rich indeed. 85 00:08:51,137 --> 00:08:54,197 As the river brings down more and more particles of mud, 86 00:08:54,440 --> 00:08:57,432 so the flats grow bigger and higher, 87 00:08:57,644 --> 00:09:02,775 and on their surface they develop a slimy skin, 88 00:09:03,082 --> 00:09:07,018 and that's formed by microscopic plants, algae. 89 00:09:07,353 --> 00:09:10,254 They start the process of consolidation. 90 00:09:10,990 --> 00:09:15,222 But soon, bigger plants get root, like this glasswort, 91 00:09:15,395 --> 00:09:18,228 and now the process really speeds up. 92 00:09:21,834 --> 00:09:26,897 As the high tide brings in more mud particles, they clog around the stems of the glasswort 93 00:09:27,073 --> 00:09:30,167 and don't swill back to the sea when the tide fall 94 00:09:30,643 --> 00:09:34,170 So with each new tide, the flats grow higher and higher. 95 00:09:36,849 --> 00:09:40,012 Glasswort is a plant of the cold estuaries of Europe. 96 00:09:40,253 --> 00:09:45,816 In the tropics, the colonisers of mud are not small plants but trees: 97 00:09:45,992 --> 00:09:47,357 Mangroves. 98 00:09:50,096 --> 00:09:54,055 This mud is the pulverised remains of rocks eroded from the Himalayas 99 00:09:54,233 --> 00:09:57,464 that has been carried down by the Ganges for 1,000 miles 100 00:09:57,637 --> 00:10:00,128 and dumped on the edge of the Bay of Bengal. 101 00:10:00,573 --> 00:10:05,977 This is the biggest intertidal forest of all, the Sunderbans, 4,000 square miles of it, 102 00:10:06,279 --> 00:10:10,079 and here roam many animals that usually live in dry-land forests. 103 00:10:11,617 --> 00:10:12,948 Axis deer. 104 00:10:24,664 --> 00:10:27,690 Woodpeckers: The Indian golden-banded. 105 00:10:33,773 --> 00:10:35,240 And wild boar. 106 00:10:39,445 --> 00:10:43,973 But mangrove forests also harbour creatures that live nowhere else at all. 107 00:10:44,383 --> 00:10:48,080 The proboscis monkey eats almost nothing but mangrove leaves. 108 00:10:48,354 --> 00:10:51,050 It developed that specialism on the island of Borneo, 109 00:10:51,257 --> 00:10:55,887 and has never spread overseas, trapped by its own specialised requirements. 110 00:11:03,102 --> 00:11:06,936 Mangroves themselves are distributed widely through the tropics, 111 00:11:07,206 --> 00:11:10,300 for they have evolved from many different plant families 112 00:11:10,476 --> 00:11:13,775 and today there are some 40 different species of them. 113 00:11:15,081 --> 00:11:18,676 The flowers of this pioneering mangrove are pollinated by the wind. 114 00:11:18,951 --> 00:11:22,853 The seed doesn't immediately leave the parent tree. 115 00:11:23,089 --> 00:11:25,387 It starts to grow while it is still attached, 116 00:11:25,591 --> 00:11:30,119 producing a green shoot a foot long with a sharp end to it. 117 00:11:32,732 --> 00:11:34,461 If it falls when the tide is in, 118 00:11:34,634 --> 00:11:36,864 it floats horizontally in the buoyant salt water 119 00:11:37,036 --> 00:11:40,062 and may be carried for miles before being stranded. 120 00:11:40,339 --> 00:11:45,902 If the tide is out, it stabs the mud and stays in that position when the tide returns. 121 00:11:46,279 --> 00:11:50,739 It puts out rootlets from the bottom and leaves from the top, 122 00:11:50,917 --> 00:11:53,818 and within a few days, it's firmly established. 123 00:11:56,222 --> 00:11:58,452 Just as in cold-water estuaries, 124 00:11:58,624 --> 00:12:01,058 there's a lot of organic matter in this mud. 125 00:12:01,427 --> 00:12:07,161 Because it's so sticky, it isn't stirred up, so there's little oxygen in it, 126 00:12:07,333 --> 00:12:10,894 and the process of rotting produces within the mud itself 127 00:12:11,070 --> 00:12:16,474 an acid, smelly, poisonous chemical: Hydrogen sulphide. 128 00:12:17,844 --> 00:12:22,474 So these roots don't go down far into the mud. 129 00:12:22,782 --> 00:12:27,310 Instead, they support the trees by their sheer number. 130 00:12:27,687 --> 00:12:31,851 But what about the other things that normal roots do for normal trees, 131 00:12:32,024 --> 00:12:36,484 like gathering nutrients and water and oxygen? 132 00:12:36,796 --> 00:12:40,664 Well, these roots deal with the nutrient problem like this. 133 00:12:47,740 --> 00:12:51,972 It has this cluster of very fine roots 134 00:12:52,144 --> 00:12:56,137 which don't go more than an inch or so below the surface of the mud, 135 00:12:56,315 --> 00:13:01,014 but it is on the surface of the mud that the bulk of the nutrients are found. 136 00:13:01,554 --> 00:13:05,752 As for water, there's plenty of it here, but it's salty. 137 00:13:05,992 --> 00:13:12,329 Some mangroves have a special membrane around the cells in the root hairs 138 00:13:12,498 --> 00:13:14,830 which filters off the salt. 139 00:13:15,201 --> 00:13:19,467 Others absorb the salt but then excrete it from the leaves, 140 00:13:19,639 --> 00:13:23,871 or concentrate it in the leaf and then the leaves are shed. 141 00:13:24,277 --> 00:13:28,941 And oxygen, well, there are several different solutions to that problem. 142 00:13:29,115 --> 00:13:32,915 This mangrove has pores actually in these prop roots 143 00:13:33,085 --> 00:13:35,883 which absorb the oxygen directly. 144 00:13:36,622 --> 00:13:39,682 This one has roots which actually grow upwards, 145 00:13:39,859 --> 00:13:44,159 so keeping pace with the rising surface of the accumulating mud. 146 00:13:44,630 --> 00:13:49,693 It's not only plants in the mangrove swamps that have difficulty in getting oxygen. 147 00:13:49,869 --> 00:13:56,274 So do animals, and this time, low tide, is a period of particular difficulty. 148 00:13:57,176 --> 00:14:00,077 Many molluscs, like cockles and mussels elsewhere, 149 00:14:00,279 --> 00:14:02,975 shut their shells to keep what moisture they have 150 00:14:03,149 --> 00:14:06,516 and wait for the food-and-oxygen-bearing water to return. 151 00:14:06,752 --> 00:14:12,987 For them, it's a period of inactivity, but for other creatures, it's just the opposite. 152 00:14:25,571 --> 00:14:27,835 The mudskipper, of course, is a fish. 153 00:14:28,074 --> 00:14:29,769 There are several different kinds. 154 00:14:29,976 --> 00:14:32,103 This one lives near high-water mark, 155 00:14:32,278 --> 00:14:35,179 and is the sort that spends most time out of water. 156 00:14:36,148 --> 00:14:39,982 It has to keep its skin moist for it absorbs oxygen through it. 157 00:14:40,186 --> 00:14:43,587 It also keeps its mouth full of water swilling over its gills. 158 00:14:47,293 --> 00:14:50,319 It feeds on the little crabs that graze on the mud 159 00:14:54,934 --> 00:14:58,097 And having got one, it needs another mouthful of water. 160 00:15:06,612 --> 00:15:09,581 A second kind lives close to low-water mark, 161 00:15:09,749 --> 00:15:12,843 so it is only out of water for an hour or so each day. 162 00:15:13,085 --> 00:15:16,953 It sifts the liquid mud for small crustaceans and worms. 163 00:15:27,533 --> 00:15:30,730 In between these two kinds lives the largest of the three. 164 00:15:30,970 --> 00:15:35,703 It is a vegetarian, collecting algae and other microscopic plants from the mud. 165 00:15:42,481 --> 00:15:46,008 And it, too, nips back every now and then for a wet. 166 00:15:50,489 --> 00:15:52,855 It guards its grazing rights with vigour, 167 00:15:53,025 --> 00:15:54,959 building walls around its territory. 168 00:16:04,370 --> 00:16:06,964 And when neighbours meet, there's trouble. 169 00:16:17,883 --> 00:16:21,683 On clear mud, their territories form a patchwork of walled ponds. 170 00:16:21,954 --> 00:16:26,118 These flats are very flat, so when a male starts to advertise for a mate, 171 00:16:26,292 --> 00:16:28,226 he has to be a bit of a gymnast. 172 00:16:40,873 --> 00:16:43,808 When a female is enticed into his private pond, 173 00:16:44,043 --> 00:16:46,307 he can continue his courtship at close quarters 174 00:16:46,479 --> 00:16:48,811 in a more conventionally fish fashion, 175 00:16:49,014 --> 00:16:53,576 with flexed fins, waggling tail and enormous excitement. 176 00:17:26,485 --> 00:17:29,215 They'll spawn in a burrow at the bottom of the pond. 177 00:17:33,826 --> 00:17:36,920 This crab is too big to be intimidated by mudskippers, 178 00:17:37,096 --> 00:17:39,758 even when it does wander through their territories. 179 00:17:49,008 --> 00:17:53,809 Its scissoring mouthparts not only sort out its food but help it to breathe. 180 00:17:54,079 --> 00:17:56,138 On top of its shell, there is a puddle of water, 181 00:17:56,315 --> 00:17:57,907 and as its mouthparts move, 182 00:17:58,083 --> 00:18:01,382 they circulate this into a gill chamber within the shell, 183 00:18:01,554 --> 00:18:04,546 out again and up to the reservoir on the top. 184 00:18:05,090 --> 00:18:07,490 Eventually, the oxygen in the water is exhausted 185 00:18:07,660 --> 00:18:12,097 and the crab has to return to the sea, tip it off and get a fresh supply. 186 00:18:16,035 --> 00:18:20,665 Close by the edge of the sea, the tiny soldier crabs feed with frantic haste. 187 00:18:20,906 --> 00:18:26,845 No one else will steal their mud, but they have to eat an enormous quantity 188 00:18:27,012 --> 00:18:30,038 to extract the few particles necessary to keep alive. 189 00:18:30,316 --> 00:18:34,685 They have to work at it pretty well non-stop and have no time to waste. 190 00:18:43,696 --> 00:18:46,256 High up, beyond the reach of all but the highest tides, 191 00:18:46,432 --> 00:18:48,730 lives the large mangrove crab. 192 00:18:49,101 --> 00:18:54,129 It keeps moist by boring its hole as much as six feet deep to reach water. 193 00:18:54,406 --> 00:18:58,536 The lure that tempts it out is a newly fallen mangrove leaf. 194 00:19:03,148 --> 00:19:04,877 And quickly back to safety. 195 00:19:09,655 --> 00:19:14,058 Among the air-absorbing roots of the mangroves, fiddler crabs are busy. 196 00:19:14,493 --> 00:19:16,723 The females collect mud with both pincers, 197 00:19:16,895 --> 00:19:20,592 working with the same frantic speed as the soldier crabs. 198 00:19:23,168 --> 00:19:25,898 The males need to munch just as much mud as the females, 199 00:19:26,105 --> 00:19:27,936 but work with one hand only, 200 00:19:28,107 --> 00:19:31,702 for one of their claws is so big that it is useless for feeding. 201 00:19:34,246 --> 00:19:37,477 They use it instead to wave at passing females. 202 00:19:43,922 --> 00:19:47,016 But it is also a weapon to brandish at rivals. 203 00:19:52,264 --> 00:19:53,492 A less well-equipped male 204 00:19:53,666 --> 00:19:57,227 gets a nasty hammering even before he can get out of his hole. 205 00:20:08,547 --> 00:20:10,811 The claw is long enough to reach down into the burrow 206 00:20:10,983 --> 00:20:14,350 to give his opponent a tweak where he's least expecting it. 207 00:20:22,027 --> 00:20:26,987 The purpose of the wave is to encourage a female to follow a male into his burrow. 208 00:20:39,812 --> 00:20:44,146 Is it possible perhaps just to take a moment or so off from munching mud? 209 00:20:47,853 --> 00:20:51,050 At low tide, there's lots for birds to eat on the mangrove mud, 210 00:20:51,223 --> 00:20:53,987 just as there is on estuaries elsewhere. 211 00:20:54,226 --> 00:20:58,925 Terns hawk for fish that are easier to catch now in the shallowing waters. 212 00:21:00,699 --> 00:21:03,293 Kingfishers pounce on the fiddler crabs. 213 00:21:11,176 --> 00:21:14,703 Great white heron stalk and stab. 214 00:21:32,898 --> 00:21:36,959 The returning tide signals "all change" for everyone. 215 00:21:42,441 --> 00:21:45,933 This African mangrove snail crops the algae growing on the mud, 216 00:21:46,111 --> 00:21:50,673 but it mustn't stay there when the tide comes in, for it would be attacked by fish. 217 00:21:51,316 --> 00:21:53,682 It takes refuge up in the trees. 218 00:21:53,919 --> 00:21:57,286 Its speediest climb is barely faster than the rise of the tide, 219 00:21:57,456 --> 00:21:59,822 so it has to set off in good time. 220 00:22:00,225 --> 00:22:04,992 Its internal alarm clock tells it when it should do so. 221 00:22:18,243 --> 00:22:22,907 The soldier crabs are so well adapted to their life scavenging on the exposed mud 222 00:22:23,081 --> 00:22:26,676 that they have become breathers of air, and without it they will drown. 223 00:22:27,553 --> 00:22:31,080 As the tide advances, each constructs a little igloo 224 00:22:31,256 --> 00:22:35,625 which traps a bubble of air with which the crab can breathe while the tide is in. 225 00:22:53,612 --> 00:22:59,551 The mudskippers' territorial walls built with such labour are breached by the incoming wavelets. 226 00:23:02,888 --> 00:23:05,721 Higher up, the mudskippers shelter in burrows. 227 00:23:14,099 --> 00:23:17,933 The incoming tide brings new creatures into the swamps. 228 00:23:18,170 --> 00:23:24,473 Shoals of fish arrive, searching for morsels deposited by the river while the tide was out. 229 00:23:28,981 --> 00:23:34,851 In the swamps of South-East Asia, archer fish feed on insects that have fallen on the surface. 230 00:23:41,727 --> 00:23:46,255 Uniquely, they also have a way of collecting insects from above the water. 231 00:23:48,367 --> 00:23:50,130 There is a groove in the roof of their mouth, 232 00:23:50,302 --> 00:23:55,501 so that a sudden thrust of the tongue produces a spurt of droplets like a water pistol. 233 00:24:03,282 --> 00:24:06,979 When there is a crowd, a marksman can't be sure of getting his prize. 234 00:24:19,197 --> 00:24:22,724 So in company, it may be better to try a direct assault. 235 00:24:46,358 --> 00:24:49,725 The larger fish are themselves food for otters, 236 00:24:49,962 --> 00:24:52,157 but these hunters have broad appetites 237 00:24:52,331 --> 00:24:57,598 and will enthusiastically tackle snails, crabs and even mussels. 238 00:25:14,086 --> 00:25:18,853 They are great travellers, swimming for many miles up into fresh water or down into the sea 239 00:25:19,024 --> 00:25:21,219 and even out to offshore islands, 240 00:25:21,593 --> 00:25:24,721 and they have an enormous appetite for play. 241 00:25:36,541 --> 00:25:41,240 The largest of all living reptiles is found among mangroves: 242 00:25:41,613 --> 00:25:47,051 The estuarine crocodile, a monster that grows to 23 feet long. 243 00:26:32,431 --> 00:26:35,958 Like its ancestors that lived when dinosaurs dominated the earth, 244 00:26:36,134 --> 00:26:38,261 it's an ocean-going creature, 245 00:26:38,503 --> 00:26:42,371 and, as a consequence, it's the most widely distributed of all crocodiles 246 00:26:42,541 --> 00:26:46,477 living from the Bay of Bengal through northern Australia to the Pacific, 247 00:26:46,645 --> 00:26:52,242 even reaching isolated mangrove swamps on the islands of Fiji. 248 00:26:53,919 --> 00:26:57,548 As the mangroves establish themselves farther out into the sea, 249 00:26:57,723 --> 00:27:00,658 the mudflats they've built grow higher and higher. 250 00:27:00,959 --> 00:27:03,052 Rainwater washes them clean of salt, 251 00:27:03,295 --> 00:27:08,392 and eventually they become dry fertile forest, beyond the reach of the sea. 252 00:27:11,903 --> 00:27:15,031 The banks of mud and sand that the rivers lay down around their mouths, 253 00:27:15,207 --> 00:27:17,732 even when they are not big enough to rise above water, 254 00:27:17,909 --> 00:27:24,314 protect the land against the attacks of the sea, for tall waves can't travel across shallow water. 255 00:27:24,950 --> 00:27:28,351 But if a current sweeping down the coast carries away the sediment 256 00:27:28,520 --> 00:27:30,715 and scours the sea floor clean, 257 00:27:30,956 --> 00:27:34,255 then waves arrive at the coast full of power. 258 00:28:02,287 --> 00:28:04,551 Where the land dips steeply into the sea, 259 00:28:04,790 --> 00:28:10,092 the territory between the tides is not miles across but condensed into a narrow band. 260 00:28:10,495 --> 00:28:16,730 The creatures that live here, like all intertidal creatures, are threatened by two dangers. 261 00:28:17,435 --> 00:28:21,929 At the high-water mark, there are physical problems of being dried out, 262 00:28:22,140 --> 00:28:25,200 and at the low-water mark, there are biological problems 263 00:28:25,377 --> 00:28:30,405 of animals that creep up from the sea to prey upon the intertidal creatures. 264 00:28:30,615 --> 00:28:33,311 The interplay of those two sets of problems 265 00:28:33,485 --> 00:28:37,649 produces a series of horizontal bands along the coast, 266 00:28:37,923 --> 00:28:40,551 each dominated by the particular species 267 00:28:40,725 --> 00:28:45,128 which best deals with the problems at that particular level. 268 00:28:45,430 --> 00:28:49,332 Such bands can be seen on coasts all over the world, 269 00:28:49,534 --> 00:28:54,335 but here on the north-west coast of America, they are strikingly clear. 270 00:28:55,006 --> 00:28:57,406 The bottom band of all is only fully exposed 271 00:28:57,576 --> 00:29:01,512 when the moon and the sun are in such an alignment that they pull together 272 00:29:01,680 --> 00:29:04,979 and the tide withdraws a long way from the edge of the dry land. 273 00:29:05,684 --> 00:29:09,176 Organisms here only tolerate a brief exposure to the air 274 00:29:09,387 --> 00:29:13,414 and are unable to prevent themselves from being dried out. 275 00:29:19,297 --> 00:29:23,324 The sea urchin, in water, gnaws away at encrusting algae. 276 00:29:25,604 --> 00:29:29,597 But out of water, it can do nothing but simply hang on to the rocks. 277 00:29:30,342 --> 00:29:33,641 Nearby, giant sea anemones droop their tentacles, 278 00:29:33,812 --> 00:29:37,213 and many withdraw them, for in air there is nothing to feed on. 279 00:29:53,064 --> 00:29:56,932 Sea squirts can only filter for their food spasmodically. 280 00:29:58,436 --> 00:30:03,066 Starfish are meat-eaters, and this species feeds on mussels. 281 00:30:03,308 --> 00:30:07,301 It envelops them with its adhesive arms, wrenches apart their shells, 282 00:30:07,479 --> 00:30:09,003 and feeds on the flesh within. 283 00:30:09,381 --> 00:30:13,909 Below low-water mark, they kill any mussel that tries to establish itsel 284 00:30:14,152 --> 00:30:18,316 But like many of these low-level creatures, they can't feed out of water. 285 00:30:18,590 --> 00:30:24,825 So higher up, where the rocks are exposed to air for longer, conditions favour the mussels, 286 00:30:24,996 --> 00:30:26,657 and they form a dense band, 287 00:30:26,831 --> 00:30:31,200 cropped at the lower edge by starfish, but beyond their reach higher up. 288 00:30:37,275 --> 00:30:41,541 The massed mussels provide shelter for lots of other creatures: 289 00:30:41,713 --> 00:30:44,773 Small starfish, too small to tackle a mussel, 290 00:30:45,016 --> 00:30:49,578 worms and crustaceans, winkles and other molluscs. 291 00:30:57,495 --> 00:31:00,487 The mussels hold on to the rocks with bundles of threads, 292 00:31:00,699 --> 00:31:03,532 but can't withstand the pull of the roughest waves 293 00:31:03,768 --> 00:31:07,169 and in winter storms, sheets of them may be ripped away. 294 00:31:21,486 --> 00:31:25,616 In more exposed places where the waves beat with a particular ferocity, 295 00:31:25,857 --> 00:31:31,727 mussels give way to goose-necked barnacles which clasp the rock with a long fleshy foot. 296 00:31:42,674 --> 00:31:48,169 They feed by holding out stiff, fan-like arms which catch particles from the waves, 297 00:31:48,346 --> 00:31:52,407 not when they crash in, but as their waters flow gently back. 298 00:32:12,637 --> 00:32:18,269 On the most exposed promontories, the mussels are ousted by a plant: 299 00:32:18,543 --> 00:32:20,670 An odd-looking alga known as a sea palm 300 00:32:20,845 --> 00:32:24,440 which lives only on these north-western coasts of North America. 301 00:32:27,318 --> 00:32:29,752 The crown of leaves at the top of its rubbery stem 302 00:32:29,921 --> 00:32:36,622 enables the sea palm to harness the power of the waves and use it to attack the mussels. 303 00:32:36,961 --> 00:32:40,522 The plants, perhaps surprisingly, are annual. 304 00:32:40,799 --> 00:32:46,032 In the spring, an individual plant may achieve the difficult feat 305 00:32:46,271 --> 00:32:51,709 of getting hold of an individual mussel in the mussel bed, as this one has done. 306 00:32:52,844 --> 00:32:56,280 When it's mature, it will produce spores, 307 00:32:56,448 --> 00:33:00,077 but only when it's out of water as it is now. 308 00:33:00,385 --> 00:33:06,847 So instead of the spores being distributed widely as those of other plants are... 309 00:33:07,058 --> 00:33:12,018 ...the spores of the sea palm trickle down the grooves in these leaves 310 00:33:12,197 --> 00:33:14,757 and into the mussel bed here. 311 00:33:15,667 --> 00:33:18,864 When the first storms of the autumn come, 312 00:33:19,304 --> 00:33:26,039 they may catch underneath the fronds of this plant and rip it up. 313 00:33:26,377 --> 00:33:32,043 But the holdfast grips the mussels so firmly that the mussels come away with it, 314 00:33:32,217 --> 00:33:33,582 revealing the bare rock, 315 00:33:33,751 --> 00:33:39,621 and that means that the offspring of other nearby plants 316 00:33:39,791 --> 00:33:43,192 can get a hold on the bare rock. 317 00:33:43,628 --> 00:33:49,828 So by the sacrifice of one palm growing on a mussel one year, 318 00:33:50,101 --> 00:33:56,700 next year there will be a whole grove of palms growing firmly on the bedrock. 319 00:34:07,919 --> 00:34:13,084 But mussels do require a certain amount of immersion every day 320 00:34:13,258 --> 00:34:15,749 if they are not to dry out and die, 321 00:34:16,027 --> 00:34:18,723 and this line marks exactly that. 322 00:34:19,130 --> 00:34:21,462 Above it, no mussel can live. 323 00:34:21,733 --> 00:34:25,863 The creatures that can are these: Barnacles. 324 00:34:26,638 --> 00:34:32,668 Clamped tightly to the rocks, they conserve very effectively the moisture within their shells. 325 00:34:32,877 --> 00:34:37,109 They collect the minute quantities of food they require to grow and reproduce 326 00:34:37,282 --> 00:34:40,649 from the relatively infrequent submersions at high tide, 327 00:34:40,885 --> 00:34:45,447 which in some cases may only occur for an hour once a month. 328 00:35:10,848 --> 00:35:14,614 So each level on a rocky shore is dominated by the organisms 329 00:35:14,786 --> 00:35:19,223 that best deal with the precise combination of pounding by the waves, 330 00:35:19,424 --> 00:35:22,791 exposure to the air, and attack by deep-water predators. 331 00:35:23,161 --> 00:35:26,096 None, in the long run, can claim permanent occupation, 332 00:35:26,264 --> 00:35:29,131 for the attacks of the waves are unceasing. 333 00:35:57,528 --> 00:36:01,521 With unfailing accuracy, the sea picks out the softer parts of the rocks 334 00:36:01,699 --> 00:36:03,326 and cuts its way into them. 335 00:36:03,635 --> 00:36:07,435 Water at great pressure is driven into joints and cracks 336 00:36:07,605 --> 00:36:11,132 until it penetrates a cliff and forms a blowhole. 337 00:36:15,513 --> 00:36:20,746 On the southernmost tip of Australia, storms of great ferocity sweeping up from the south, 338 00:36:20,918 --> 00:36:23,887 with the full force of the Antarctic gales behind them, 339 00:36:24,122 --> 00:36:31,585 beat away at sandstone cliffs which have lines of weakness that run horizontally and vertically, 340 00:36:31,929 --> 00:36:34,955 so the rock is cut away in huge blocks. 341 00:37:11,069 --> 00:37:14,766 The sea, having demolished the cliffs, then works on the debris. 342 00:37:15,006 --> 00:37:18,908 During storms, it picks up the boulders and hurls them at the cliff face. 343 00:37:19,143 --> 00:37:24,672 At calmer times, it rolls the rocks over the seabe and casts them up on shingle banks. 344 00:37:25,049 --> 00:37:30,681 Every movement chips and grinds the fragments until they are reduced to sand grains, 345 00:37:30,988 --> 00:37:35,857 and now even a gentle current can pick them up and carry them for miles down the coast, 346 00:37:36,060 --> 00:37:39,086 eventually to abandon them in banks and strands 347 00:37:39,263 --> 00:37:42,289 in the lee of islands or in sheltered bays. 348 00:38:55,840 --> 00:39:00,709 Every wave of every tide stirs up the surface of the sand, 349 00:39:00,945 --> 00:39:08,283 so plants find it impossible to get any grip on it as they can on rocky shores or mudflats. 350 00:39:08,586 --> 00:39:15,992 So a beach like this looks as lifeless as any part of the margins of the land. 351 00:39:16,461 --> 00:39:20,557 But if the sand grains are not too small and compacted, 352 00:39:20,798 --> 00:39:25,895 then each will retain around it a thin film of moisture even when the tide is out, 353 00:39:26,103 --> 00:39:29,903 and in that microscopic space, animals can live. 354 00:39:32,743 --> 00:39:37,180 These translucent boulders are, in fact, sand grains, 355 00:39:37,381 --> 00:39:42,546 and the tiny snake-like animal a worm that could sit on a pinhead. 356 00:39:57,168 --> 00:39:59,102 All these inhabitants of the sand 357 00:39:59,270 --> 00:40:03,764 are, necessarily, adept at writhing, gliding and crawling 358 00:40:03,941 --> 00:40:10,005 as they search for the few edible fragments trapped between grains, or pursue one another. 359 00:40:21,959 --> 00:40:27,192 This one is only a temporary lodger in the sand. It is the larva of a mollusc. 360 00:40:31,669 --> 00:40:35,230 A hydra lives here. It's like the one that's common in freshwater ponds, 361 00:40:35,406 --> 00:40:39,365 but it has one elongated tentacle with which it anchors itself. 362 00:40:41,312 --> 00:40:45,078 A nematode worm produces glue from a gland on its tail 363 00:40:45,249 --> 00:40:47,547 which helps it to maintain its position. 364 00:40:56,394 --> 00:41:00,194 This is another larva that at the beginning of its life floats in the se 365 00:41:00,398 --> 00:41:03,856 but settles down into the sand to continue its development. 366 00:41:04,435 --> 00:41:07,836 It builds a tiny tube of mucus which it carries about with it 367 00:41:08,005 --> 00:41:10,803 and clings to with bristles on its flanks. 368 00:41:19,650 --> 00:41:24,587 When it grows up, it does the same thing on a larger scale, above the sand. 369 00:41:24,956 --> 00:41:27,424 It's a worm called the sand mason. 370 00:41:29,226 --> 00:41:32,821 Now it not only builds a tube, but it adds long tassels to the top. 371 00:41:33,064 --> 00:41:36,864 These slow down the water so that suspended food particles fall 372 00:41:37,034 --> 00:41:39,332 and can be gathered by the waving tentacles. 373 00:41:40,071 --> 00:41:43,268 The tubes need constant renewal, 374 00:41:43,474 --> 00:41:48,502 and this is how the sand mason does it, speeded up 125 times. 375 00:42:31,055 --> 00:42:34,513 Although plants can't grow on these perpetually moving sands, 376 00:42:34,792 --> 00:42:39,491 those dislodged from the rocky parts of the coast by waves are washed up here, 377 00:42:39,830 --> 00:42:43,129 and there are plenty of creatures on the beach waiting for them. 378 00:42:55,579 --> 00:42:57,342 These are sand-hoppers. 379 00:42:57,581 --> 00:43:01,540 They hide below the surface to avoid being baked and dried out by the sun, 380 00:43:01,786 --> 00:43:04,084 but now there is food to be had. 381 00:43:20,771 --> 00:43:23,433 On many beaches, their numbers are astronomic. 382 00:43:23,708 --> 00:43:29,374 There can be as many as 25,000 of them in one square yard of beach sand. 383 00:43:41,926 --> 00:43:44,952 The sand-hoppers favour rotting vegetation. 384 00:43:45,596 --> 00:43:48,793 Rotting flesh attracts crabs. 385 00:43:57,241 --> 00:44:01,371 The remains of a squid is a banquet for ghost crabs. 386 00:44:22,333 --> 00:44:25,427 Occasionally, when there is a chance, it may be better to cut off a length 387 00:44:25,603 --> 00:44:29,061 and haul it away to consume it in the privacy of a burrow. 388 00:44:33,811 --> 00:44:37,269 The crabs and the shrimps live close to the high-tide mark. 389 00:44:37,515 --> 00:44:42,009 The incoming waters bring with them another team of scavengers. 390 00:44:43,587 --> 00:44:48,889 This periscope on a South African beach belongs to a mollusc: A plough snail. 391 00:44:53,931 --> 00:44:57,594 It inflates its plough-like foot by pumping in water, 392 00:44:57,835 --> 00:45:01,965 and it uses it not so much as a ploughshare as a surfboard. 393 00:45:02,473 --> 00:45:07,877 The waters pick it up and wash it swiftly inshore, together with its potential food... 394 00:45:11,382 --> 00:45:12,974 ...a stranded jellyfish. 395 00:45:22,226 --> 00:45:27,061 The plough snails detect its presence from the taste of decay in the surrounding water 396 00:45:27,264 --> 00:45:29,664 and advance on it with great speed. 397 00:46:06,403 --> 00:46:10,669 To avoid being swept up the beach and being stranded, they eat fast, 398 00:46:10,841 --> 00:46:15,210 and then, while there is some food left, they burrow into the sand. 399 00:46:15,779 --> 00:46:17,713 There they wait for the tide to turn 400 00:46:17,882 --> 00:46:22,444 so that they can ride back on their surfboards to deeper water and safety. 401 00:46:29,326 --> 00:46:34,559 Very few sea creatures venture above the limit of the highest tide and survive. 402 00:46:34,899 --> 00:46:39,836 One group of animals is compelled to do so by the nature of their ancestry, 403 00:46:40,037 --> 00:46:45,236 and on this one beach in Costa Rica, they stage an astonishing invasion. 404 00:46:46,644 --> 00:46:47,906 Turtles. 405 00:46:48,445 --> 00:46:53,246 They are Ridleys, the smallest of the sea-going turtles, only a couple of feet long. 406 00:46:54,218 --> 00:46:56,652 Turtles are descended from land-living reptiles, 407 00:46:56,820 --> 00:47:01,621 and, like all reptiles, they lay eggs that only develop and hatch in air. 408 00:47:01,892 --> 00:47:07,660 Every year, adult females, having mated at sea, must move onto dry land. 409 00:47:12,503 --> 00:47:16,769 They arrive at a rate of up to 5,000 an hour. 410 00:47:17,207 --> 00:47:21,735 They use only one or two of the thousands of beaches that seem to be suitable. 411 00:47:21,979 --> 00:47:26,211 What is more, they only choose to do so on just a few nights in the year 412 00:47:26,383 --> 00:47:28,442 between August and November. 413 00:47:36,160 --> 00:47:38,151 Efficient though their flippers are in water, 414 00:47:38,362 --> 00:47:42,423 they are barely strong enough to lift the turtle clear of the sand. 415 00:47:42,666 --> 00:47:44,998 It has to drag itself up the beach. 416 00:47:46,904 --> 00:47:50,305 This mass breeding may be an advantage to the turtle. 417 00:47:50,474 --> 00:47:53,068 Since it only occurs on a few nights a year, 418 00:47:53,410 --> 00:47:56,868 their eggs can't support a large permanent population of predators, 419 00:47:57,147 --> 00:48:00,241 as they might if the turtles were to lay over several months. 420 00:48:00,951 --> 00:48:03,977 Yet, even so, for reasons that we still don't understand, 421 00:48:04,221 --> 00:48:09,818 less than one in a hundred of the eggs produces a hatchling which reaches the sea. 422 00:48:10,894 --> 00:48:13,727 Each female lays a hundred or so. 423 00:48:26,910 --> 00:48:29,811 That done, she carefully fills in the hole. 424 00:48:47,398 --> 00:48:51,767 A few coatimundi and vultures come down from the forest to plunder, 425 00:48:52,002 --> 00:48:55,403 but they make little impact on the millions of eggs that are laid. 426 00:49:03,781 --> 00:49:07,740 Next night, many thousands more Ridleys arrive. 427 00:49:16,293 --> 00:49:22,027 On other beaches, more secretly, other very different turtles are laying. 428 00:49:23,867 --> 00:49:30,773 This is the largest of all the marine turtles. 429 00:49:31,041 --> 00:49:35,876 This magnificent creature is the giant leatherback turtle. 430 00:49:36,113 --> 00:49:38,843 And it's a most mysterious animal. 431 00:49:39,183 --> 00:49:42,482 It's a solitary wanderer of the oceans. 432 00:49:42,786 --> 00:49:49,123 Individuals turn up almost anywhere in the tropics but they go much farther than that. 433 00:49:49,460 --> 00:49:52,190 They've been recorded as far south as Argentina, 434 00:49:52,396 --> 00:49:55,729 and as far north as the British Isles and North America. 435 00:49:56,066 --> 00:49:59,900 It's a creature of mystery, because although we know what it feeds on, 436 00:50:00,070 --> 00:50:06,805 which is sea urchins and fish and, oddly enough, jellyfish, we know little else about it. 437 00:50:07,044 --> 00:50:11,777 We don't know how long they live. We don't know how the male finds females. 438 00:50:11,982 --> 00:50:18,387 We don't know how females navigate to find nesting sites like this one. 439 00:50:18,622 --> 00:50:24,458 Indeed we didn't know where the main nesting sites were until 25 years ago. 440 00:50:24,628 --> 00:50:30,225 Then it was discovered that some nested on the Suriname coast of South America 441 00:50:30,467 --> 00:50:34,335 and some nested here, on the east coast of Malaysia. 442 00:50:34,671 --> 00:50:38,835 Of course, the people here have always known about the turtles 443 00:50:39,009 --> 00:50:42,103 and have always plundered those eggs. 444 00:50:42,346 --> 00:50:46,339 Today, however, there are more people than ever here, 445 00:50:46,583 --> 00:50:50,314 and the eggs are plundered more seriously, 446 00:50:50,487 --> 00:50:55,857 so undoubtedly, this huge and extraordinary creature is in danger. 447 00:50:56,860 --> 00:51:02,355 But maybe the leatherback turtle has other breeding grounds that we don't know about. 448 00:51:02,566 --> 00:51:08,402 Maybe it goes to small, tiny coral islands in the emptiness of the ocean 449 00:51:08,572 --> 00:51:11,939 to find beaches far away from man. 450 00:51:12,176 --> 00:51:17,307 That, indeed, is where we ourselves will be going in the next programme. 451 00:51:17,357 --> 00:51:21,907 Repair and Synchronization by Easy Subtitles Synchronizer 1.0.0.0 43934

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