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This is a battle ground.
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00:00:22,963 --> 00:00:27,366
In many places, the sea is forcing the land
to retreat, cutting back its cliffs
3
00:00:27,534 --> 00:00:32,267
and leaving islands and towers
as markers of the territory that the land has lost
4
00:00:33,006 --> 00:00:34,667
The debris is swept away
5
00:00:34,841 --> 00:00:38,902
and strewn on beaches farther down the coast
as sand and gravel.
6
00:00:43,350 --> 00:00:46,183
In some places, the land is advancing.
7
00:00:46,419 --> 00:00:50,617
In the tropics, mangroves are moving
out into the sea, gathering mud
8
00:00:50,790 --> 00:00:53,918
and building new territory
for land-living creatures.
9
00:00:56,429 --> 00:00:57,919
Even in the mouths of rivers,
10
00:00:58,098 --> 00:01:02,762
where fresh water laden with sediment
mingles with the salt water of the sea,
11
00:01:02,936 --> 00:01:06,736
new land is being created of a sort.
12
00:01:12,078 --> 00:01:15,275
I'm in an estuary in the west of England.
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00:01:15,515 --> 00:01:20,885
You might think that this mud is not
the most attractive stuff in which to live.
14
00:01:21,188 --> 00:01:25,955
Certainly, animals that do live in it
have to face some severe problems.
15
00:01:26,226 --> 00:01:29,957
Part of their time they're out of water like this,
16
00:01:30,197 --> 00:01:32,529
part of the time they're underwater.
17
00:01:32,799 --> 00:01:34,767
The saltiness of the water, too, varies.
18
00:01:34,935 --> 00:01:39,201
Fresh water comes down
from the land, the tides bring in salt water.
19
00:01:39,439 --> 00:01:45,002
And then there's the nature
of this extraordinarily sticky mud itself.
20
00:01:45,946 --> 00:01:48,642
It is so glutinous that little oxygen gets into it
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00:01:48,815 --> 00:01:53,445
but the rewards for enduring
these unpromising conditions are high.
22
00:01:58,158 --> 00:02:01,355
Edible particles
deposited on the surface of the mud
23
00:02:01,528 --> 00:02:06,591
are cautiously sucked up
by the searching siphon of Scrobicularia,
24
00:02:06,833 --> 00:02:11,827
a mollusc whose main body, enclosed in a shell,
hides in the mud for safety.
25
00:02:12,305 --> 00:02:15,706
A tiny crustacean, Corophium, half an inch long,
26
00:02:15,875 --> 00:02:18,969
grazes on the bacteria
which proliferate in millions,
27
00:02:19,246 --> 00:02:22,215
breaking down rotting organic matter in the mud.
28
00:02:24,117 --> 00:02:25,448
Ragworms live in burrows
29
00:02:25,619 --> 00:02:30,056
and will tackle Corophium, algae, bacteria,
almost anything that's around.
30
00:02:38,999 --> 00:02:41,524
The puddles are flecked with floating mucus.
31
00:02:41,701 --> 00:02:45,501
It is produced by spire shells,
no bigger than grains of wheat.
32
00:02:45,772 --> 00:02:50,232
The mucus attracts bacteria,
and the spire shells eat the lot.
33
00:03:03,957 --> 00:03:07,484
The peacock worm fans out its tentacles
from the top of its tube
34
00:03:07,661 --> 00:03:10,653
to gather food particles before they settle.
35
00:03:23,043 --> 00:03:25,273
Beating threads on each filament of the fan
36
00:03:25,445 --> 00:03:28,710
transport the catch
down to the mouth at the centre.
37
00:03:33,253 --> 00:03:36,950
While it feeds,
it also disgorges a cement of mud and mucus
38
00:03:37,123 --> 00:03:39,318
and builds up the margin of its tube.
39
00:03:45,765 --> 00:03:47,960
The cockle lies with its shell agape,
40
00:03:48,134 --> 00:03:51,661
filtering the water
by sucking it in through one siphon...
41
00:03:53,740 --> 00:03:56,641
...and blowing it out through another.
42
00:03:58,745 --> 00:04:01,771
Mussels use the same technique,
collecting within their shells
43
00:04:01,948 --> 00:04:07,580
substantial quantities of the abundant
and nutritious drifting particles.
44
00:04:13,059 --> 00:04:16,256
When the tide goes out,
they clamp their shells tightly together
45
00:04:16,429 --> 00:04:19,694
to keep in their moisture
and to keep out attackers,
46
00:04:19,999 --> 00:04:22,331
but some creatures know how to deal with that.
47
00:04:31,544 --> 00:04:35,878
Each oyster-catcher has its favourite technique
for dealing with mussels.
48
00:04:36,249 --> 00:04:38,683
It is usually the same as that used by its parents
49
00:04:38,852 --> 00:04:44,222
though a bird needs years of practice
before it becomes really expert.
50
00:04:44,691 --> 00:04:49,151
Some hunt in the shallow waters
for mussels that have not yet shut their shells.
51
00:04:53,767 --> 00:04:57,794
Others carry unattached shells
away from the main flock
52
00:04:57,971 --> 00:04:59,598
so they've got a little privacy.
53
00:04:59,906 --> 00:05:04,775
They skilfully place the mussel in such a position
that they can cut it open along its hinge.
54
00:05:18,224 --> 00:05:21,751
Other individual birds resort to brute force.
55
00:05:21,995 --> 00:05:24,463
They hammer their way in through the shell itself.
56
00:05:35,308 --> 00:05:39,438
As the tide retreats still further,
spire shells are exposed,
57
00:05:39,612 --> 00:05:43,605
as many as 35,000 buried
within a single square yard.
58
00:05:43,850 --> 00:05:47,115
All these mud feeders together
constitute a rich prize,
59
00:05:47,287 --> 00:05:49,482
and there are abundant claimants.
60
00:06:03,770 --> 00:06:06,739
Sandpipers, on migration, depend on them,
61
00:06:06,906 --> 00:06:10,899
but at all times of the year,
wading birds come to the estuaries to feed.
62
00:06:14,113 --> 00:06:16,741
The godwit,
equipped with long legs and a long bill,
63
00:06:16,916 --> 00:06:18,884
can wade in water several inches deep
64
00:06:19,052 --> 00:06:21,987
and collect food
before it can be reached by other birds.
65
00:06:23,823 --> 00:06:26,291
The curlew prefers to work out of water.
66
00:06:26,659 --> 00:06:29,890
Its long bill enables it
to probe deep into the mud for a worm,
67
00:06:30,129 --> 00:06:32,620
and serves equally well as a pair of forceps.
68
00:06:37,604 --> 00:06:40,869
The dunlin is a smaller bird
and goes for smaller prey:
69
00:06:41,107 --> 00:06:42,574
Ragworms and insect larvae.
70
00:06:42,876 --> 00:06:45,470
It feels for its food with its short bill.
71
00:07:09,269 --> 00:07:11,396
The ringed plover, with a very short bill,
72
00:07:11,704 --> 00:07:15,265
can only collect food
from the surface and locates it by sight.
73
00:07:15,542 --> 00:07:19,672
It works alone so that its prey
won't be disturbed by pattering feet
74
00:07:19,846 --> 00:07:22,212
and withdraw before being spotted.
75
00:07:24,517 --> 00:07:26,075
The scything action of the avocet
76
00:07:26,252 --> 00:07:28,584
collects creatures that live in the liquid mud.
77
00:07:37,830 --> 00:07:41,698
Their bills are very sensitive.
As soon as they close on something edible,
78
00:07:41,868 --> 00:07:44,462
the bird can juggle it up into its mouth.
79
00:08:25,378 --> 00:08:29,712
The quantities of food taken by wading birds
from estuaries is enormous.
80
00:08:29,882 --> 00:08:34,376
Some species consume every day
about a third of their own weight in food.
81
00:08:34,554 --> 00:08:37,114
In a year, a single oyster-catcher
82
00:08:37,290 --> 00:08:40,316
can consume the flesh over half a ton of cockles,
83
00:08:40,593 --> 00:08:44,962
and many an estuary
supports tens of thousands of wading birds,
84
00:08:45,164 --> 00:08:47,462
so these places are rich indeed.
85
00:08:51,137 --> 00:08:54,197
As the river brings down
more and more particles of mud,
86
00:08:54,440 --> 00:08:57,432
so the flats grow bigger and higher,
87
00:08:57,644 --> 00:09:02,775
and on their surface they develop a slimy skin,
88
00:09:03,082 --> 00:09:07,018
and that's formed by microscopic plants, algae.
89
00:09:07,353 --> 00:09:10,254
They start the process of consolidation.
90
00:09:10,990 --> 00:09:15,222
But soon, bigger plants get root,
like this glasswort,
91
00:09:15,395 --> 00:09:18,228
and now the process really speeds up.
92
00:09:21,834 --> 00:09:26,897
As the high tide brings in more mud particles,
they clog around the stems of the glasswort
93
00:09:27,073 --> 00:09:30,167
and don't swill back to the sea when the tide fall
94
00:09:30,643 --> 00:09:34,170
So with each new tide,
the flats grow higher and higher.
95
00:09:36,849 --> 00:09:40,012
Glasswort is a plant
of the cold estuaries of Europe.
96
00:09:40,253 --> 00:09:45,816
In the tropics, the colonisers
of mud are not small plants but trees:
97
00:09:45,992 --> 00:09:47,357
Mangroves.
98
00:09:50,096 --> 00:09:54,055
This mud is the pulverised remains
of rocks eroded from the Himalayas
99
00:09:54,233 --> 00:09:57,464
that has been carried down
by the Ganges for 1,000 miles
100
00:09:57,637 --> 00:10:00,128
and dumped on the edge of the Bay of Bengal.
101
00:10:00,573 --> 00:10:05,977
This is the biggest intertidal forest of all,
the Sunderbans, 4,000 square miles of it,
102
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and here roam many animals
that usually live in dry-land forests.
103
00:10:11,617 --> 00:10:12,948
Axis deer.
104
00:10:24,664 --> 00:10:27,690
Woodpeckers: The Indian golden-banded.
105
00:10:33,773 --> 00:10:35,240
And wild boar.
106
00:10:39,445 --> 00:10:43,973
But mangrove forests also harbour creatures
that live nowhere else at all.
107
00:10:44,383 --> 00:10:48,080
The proboscis monkey eats
almost nothing but mangrove leaves.
108
00:10:48,354 --> 00:10:51,050
It developed that specialism
on the island of Borneo,
109
00:10:51,257 --> 00:10:55,887
and has never spread overseas,
trapped by its own specialised requirements.
110
00:11:03,102 --> 00:11:06,936
Mangroves themselves
are distributed widely through the tropics,
111
00:11:07,206 --> 00:11:10,300
for they have evolved
from many different plant families
112
00:11:10,476 --> 00:11:13,775
and today there are
some 40 different species of them.
113
00:11:15,081 --> 00:11:18,676
The flowers of this pioneering mangrove
are pollinated by the wind.
114
00:11:18,951 --> 00:11:22,853
The seed doesn't immediately
leave the parent tree.
115
00:11:23,089 --> 00:11:25,387
It starts to grow while it is still attached,
116
00:11:25,591 --> 00:11:30,119
producing a green shoot a foot long
with a sharp end to it.
117
00:11:32,732 --> 00:11:34,461
If it falls when the tide is in,
118
00:11:34,634 --> 00:11:36,864
it floats horizontally in the buoyant salt water
119
00:11:37,036 --> 00:11:40,062
and may be carried for miles
before being stranded.
120
00:11:40,339 --> 00:11:45,902
If the tide is out, it stabs the mud
and stays in that position when the tide returns.
121
00:11:46,279 --> 00:11:50,739
It puts out rootlets from the bottom
and leaves from the top,
122
00:11:50,917 --> 00:11:53,818
and within a few days, it's firmly established.
123
00:11:56,222 --> 00:11:58,452
Just as in cold-water estuaries,
124
00:11:58,624 --> 00:12:01,058
there's a lot of organic matter in this mud.
125
00:12:01,427 --> 00:12:07,161
Because it's so sticky, it isn't stirred up,
so there's little oxygen in it,
126
00:12:07,333 --> 00:12:10,894
and the process of rotting
produces within the mud itself
127
00:12:11,070 --> 00:12:16,474
an acid, smelly, poisonous chemical:
Hydrogen sulphide.
128
00:12:17,844 --> 00:12:22,474
So these roots don't go down far into the mud.
129
00:12:22,782 --> 00:12:27,310
Instead, they support the trees
by their sheer number.
130
00:12:27,687 --> 00:12:31,851
But what about the other things
that normal roots do for normal trees,
131
00:12:32,024 --> 00:12:36,484
like gathering nutrients and water and oxygen?
132
00:12:36,796 --> 00:12:40,664
Well, these roots
deal with the nutrient problem like this.
133
00:12:47,740 --> 00:12:51,972
It has this cluster of very fine roots
134
00:12:52,144 --> 00:12:56,137
which don't go more than an inch or so
below the surface of the mud,
135
00:12:56,315 --> 00:13:01,014
but it is on the surface of the mud
that the bulk of the nutrients are found.
136
00:13:01,554 --> 00:13:05,752
As for water, there's plenty of it here,
but it's salty.
137
00:13:05,992 --> 00:13:12,329
Some mangroves have a special membrane
around the cells in the root hairs
138
00:13:12,498 --> 00:13:14,830
which filters off the salt.
139
00:13:15,201 --> 00:13:19,467
Others absorb the salt
but then excrete it from the leaves,
140
00:13:19,639 --> 00:13:23,871
or concentrate it in the leaf
and then the leaves are shed.
141
00:13:24,277 --> 00:13:28,941
And oxygen, well, there are
several different solutions to that problem.
142
00:13:29,115 --> 00:13:32,915
This mangrove has pores
actually in these prop roots
143
00:13:33,085 --> 00:13:35,883
which absorb the oxygen directly.
144
00:13:36,622 --> 00:13:39,682
This one has roots
which actually grow upwards,
145
00:13:39,859 --> 00:13:44,159
so keeping pace with the rising surface
of the accumulating mud.
146
00:13:44,630 --> 00:13:49,693
It's not only plants in the mangrove swamps
that have difficulty in getting oxygen.
147
00:13:49,869 --> 00:13:56,274
So do animals, and this time, low tide,
is a period of particular difficulty.
148
00:13:57,176 --> 00:14:00,077
Many molluscs,
like cockles and mussels elsewhere,
149
00:14:00,279 --> 00:14:02,975
shut their shells to keep what moisture they have
150
00:14:03,149 --> 00:14:06,516
and wait for
the food-and-oxygen-bearing water to return.
151
00:14:06,752 --> 00:14:12,987
For them, it's a period of inactivity,
but for other creatures, it's just the opposite.
152
00:14:25,571 --> 00:14:27,835
The mudskipper, of course, is a fish.
153
00:14:28,074 --> 00:14:29,769
There are several different kinds.
154
00:14:29,976 --> 00:14:32,103
This one lives near high-water mark,
155
00:14:32,278 --> 00:14:35,179
and is the sort
that spends most time out of water.
156
00:14:36,148 --> 00:14:39,982
It has to keep its skin moist
for it absorbs oxygen through it.
157
00:14:40,186 --> 00:14:43,587
It also keeps its mouth full of water
swilling over its gills.
158
00:14:47,293 --> 00:14:50,319
It feeds on the little crabs that graze on the mud
159
00:14:54,934 --> 00:14:58,097
And having got one,
it needs another mouthful of water.
160
00:15:06,612 --> 00:15:09,581
A second kind lives close to low-water mark,
161
00:15:09,749 --> 00:15:12,843
so it is only out of water
for an hour or so each day.
162
00:15:13,085 --> 00:15:16,953
It sifts the liquid mud
for small crustaceans and worms.
163
00:15:27,533 --> 00:15:30,730
In between these two kinds
lives the largest of the three.
164
00:15:30,970 --> 00:15:35,703
It is a vegetarian, collecting algae
and other microscopic plants from the mud.
165
00:15:42,481 --> 00:15:46,008
And it, too,
nips back every now and then for a wet.
166
00:15:50,489 --> 00:15:52,855
It guards its grazing rights with vigour,
167
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building walls around its territory.
168
00:16:04,370 --> 00:16:06,964
And when neighbours meet, there's trouble.
169
00:16:17,883 --> 00:16:21,683
On clear mud, their territories
form a patchwork of walled ponds.
170
00:16:21,954 --> 00:16:26,118
These flats are very flat,
so when a male starts to advertise for a mate,
171
00:16:26,292 --> 00:16:28,226
he has to be a bit of a gymnast.
172
00:16:40,873 --> 00:16:43,808
When a female is enticed into his private pond,
173
00:16:44,043 --> 00:16:46,307
he can continue his courtship
at close quarters
174
00:16:46,479 --> 00:16:48,811
in a more conventionally fish fashion,
175
00:16:49,014 --> 00:16:53,576
with flexed fins, waggling tail
and enormous excitement.
176
00:17:26,485 --> 00:17:29,215
They'll spawn in a burrow
at the bottom of the pond.
177
00:17:33,826 --> 00:17:36,920
This crab is too big
to be intimidated by mudskippers,
178
00:17:37,096 --> 00:17:39,758
even when it does wander
through their territories.
179
00:17:49,008 --> 00:17:53,809
Its scissoring mouthparts not only
sort out its food but help it to breathe.
180
00:17:54,079 --> 00:17:56,138
On top of its shell, there is a puddle of water,
181
00:17:56,315 --> 00:17:57,907
and as its mouthparts move,
182
00:17:58,083 --> 00:18:01,382
they circulate this into a gill chamber
within the shell,
183
00:18:01,554 --> 00:18:04,546
out again and up to the reservoir on the top.
184
00:18:05,090 --> 00:18:07,490
Eventually, the oxygen in the water
is exhausted
185
00:18:07,660 --> 00:18:12,097
and the crab has to return to the sea,
tip it off and get a fresh supply.
186
00:18:16,035 --> 00:18:20,665
Close by the edge of the sea,
the tiny soldier crabs feed with frantic haste.
187
00:18:20,906 --> 00:18:26,845
No one else will steal their mud,
but they have to eat an enormous quantity
188
00:18:27,012 --> 00:18:30,038
to extract the few particles
necessary to keep alive.
189
00:18:30,316 --> 00:18:34,685
They have to work at it pretty well non-stop
and have no time to waste.
190
00:18:43,696 --> 00:18:46,256
High up, beyond the reach
of all but the highest tides,
191
00:18:46,432 --> 00:18:48,730
lives the large mangrove crab.
192
00:18:49,101 --> 00:18:54,129
It keeps moist by boring its hole
as much as six feet deep to reach water.
193
00:18:54,406 --> 00:18:58,536
The lure that tempts it out
is a newly fallen mangrove leaf.
194
00:19:03,148 --> 00:19:04,877
And quickly back to safety.
195
00:19:09,655 --> 00:19:14,058
Among the air-absorbing roots
of the mangroves, fiddler crabs are busy.
196
00:19:14,493 --> 00:19:16,723
The females collect mud with both pincers,
197
00:19:16,895 --> 00:19:20,592
working with the same frantic speed
as the soldier crabs.
198
00:19:23,168 --> 00:19:25,898
The males need to munch
just as much mud as the females,
199
00:19:26,105 --> 00:19:27,936
but work with one hand only,
200
00:19:28,107 --> 00:19:31,702
for one of their claws is so big
that it is useless for feeding.
201
00:19:34,246 --> 00:19:37,477
They use it instead to wave at passing females.
202
00:19:43,922 --> 00:19:47,016
But it is also a weapon to brandish at rivals.
203
00:19:52,264 --> 00:19:53,492
A less well-equipped male
204
00:19:53,666 --> 00:19:57,227
gets a nasty hammering
even before he can get out of his hole.
205
00:20:08,547 --> 00:20:10,811
The claw is long enough
to reach down into the burrow
206
00:20:10,983 --> 00:20:14,350
to give his opponent a tweak
where he's least expecting it.
207
00:20:22,027 --> 00:20:26,987
The purpose of the wave is to encourage
a female to follow a male into his burrow.
208
00:20:39,812 --> 00:20:44,146
Is it possible perhaps just to take a moment or so
off from munching mud?
209
00:20:47,853 --> 00:20:51,050
At low tide, there's lots for birds
to eat on the mangrove mud,
210
00:20:51,223 --> 00:20:53,987
just as there is on estuaries elsewhere.
211
00:20:54,226 --> 00:20:58,925
Terns hawk for fish that are easier to catch
now in the shallowing waters.
212
00:21:00,699 --> 00:21:03,293
Kingfishers pounce on the fiddler crabs.
213
00:21:11,176 --> 00:21:14,703
Great white heron stalk and stab.
214
00:21:32,898 --> 00:21:36,959
The returning tide
signals "all change" for everyone.
215
00:21:42,441 --> 00:21:45,933
This African mangrove snail
crops the algae growing on the mud,
216
00:21:46,111 --> 00:21:50,673
but it mustn't stay there when the tide comes in,
for it would be attacked by fish.
217
00:21:51,316 --> 00:21:53,682
It takes refuge up in the trees.
218
00:21:53,919 --> 00:21:57,286
Its speediest climb
is barely faster than the rise of the tide,
219
00:21:57,456 --> 00:21:59,822
so it has to set off in good time.
220
00:22:00,225 --> 00:22:04,992
Its internal alarm clock
tells it when it should do so.
221
00:22:18,243 --> 00:22:22,907
The soldier crabs are so well adapted
to their life scavenging on the exposed mud
222
00:22:23,081 --> 00:22:26,676
that they have become breathers of air,
and without it they will drown.
223
00:22:27,553 --> 00:22:31,080
As the tide advances,
each constructs a little igloo
224
00:22:31,256 --> 00:22:35,625
which traps a bubble of air with which the crab
can breathe while the tide is in.
225
00:22:53,612 --> 00:22:59,551
The mudskippers' territorial walls built with such
labour are breached by the incoming wavelets.
226
00:23:02,888 --> 00:23:05,721
Higher up, the mudskippers shelter in burrows.
227
00:23:14,099 --> 00:23:17,933
The incoming tide brings new creatures
into the swamps.
228
00:23:18,170 --> 00:23:24,473
Shoals of fish arrive, searching for morsels
deposited by the river while the tide was out.
229
00:23:28,981 --> 00:23:34,851
In the swamps of South-East Asia, archer fish
feed on insects that have fallen on the surface.
230
00:23:41,727 --> 00:23:46,255
Uniquely, they also have a way
of collecting insects from above the water.
231
00:23:48,367 --> 00:23:50,130
There is a groove in the roof of their mouth,
232
00:23:50,302 --> 00:23:55,501
so that a sudden thrust of the tongue
produces a spurt of droplets like a water pistol.
233
00:24:03,282 --> 00:24:06,979
When there is a crowd,
a marksman can't be sure of getting his prize.
234
00:24:19,197 --> 00:24:22,724
So in company,
it may be better to try a direct assault.
235
00:24:46,358 --> 00:24:49,725
The larger fish are themselves food for otters,
236
00:24:49,962 --> 00:24:52,157
but these hunters have broad appetites
237
00:24:52,331 --> 00:24:57,598
and will enthusiastically tackle snails,
crabs and even mussels.
238
00:25:14,086 --> 00:25:18,853
They are great travellers, swimming for many
miles up into fresh water or down into the sea
239
00:25:19,024 --> 00:25:21,219
and even out to offshore islands,
240
00:25:21,593 --> 00:25:24,721
and they have an enormous appetite for play.
241
00:25:36,541 --> 00:25:41,240
The largest of all living reptiles
is found among mangroves:
242
00:25:41,613 --> 00:25:47,051
The estuarine crocodile,
a monster that grows to 23 feet long.
243
00:26:32,431 --> 00:26:35,958
Like its ancestors that lived
when dinosaurs dominated the earth,
244
00:26:36,134 --> 00:26:38,261
it's an ocean-going creature,
245
00:26:38,503 --> 00:26:42,371
and, as a consequence,
it's the most widely distributed of all crocodiles
246
00:26:42,541 --> 00:26:46,477
living from the Bay of Bengal
through northern Australia to the Pacific,
247
00:26:46,645 --> 00:26:52,242
even reaching isolated mangrove swamps
on the islands of Fiji.
248
00:26:53,919 --> 00:26:57,548
As the mangroves establish themselves
farther out into the sea,
249
00:26:57,723 --> 00:27:00,658
the mudflats they've built grow higher and higher.
250
00:27:00,959 --> 00:27:03,052
Rainwater washes them clean of salt,
251
00:27:03,295 --> 00:27:08,392
and eventually they become dry fertile forest,
beyond the reach of the sea.
252
00:27:11,903 --> 00:27:15,031
The banks of mud and sand
that the rivers lay down around their mouths,
253
00:27:15,207 --> 00:27:17,732
even when they are not big enough
to rise above water,
254
00:27:17,909 --> 00:27:24,314
protect the land against the attacks of the sea,
for tall waves can't travel across shallow water.
255
00:27:24,950 --> 00:27:28,351
But if a current sweeping down the coast
carries away the sediment
256
00:27:28,520 --> 00:27:30,715
and scours the sea floor clean,
257
00:27:30,956 --> 00:27:34,255
then waves arrive at the coast full of power.
258
00:28:02,287 --> 00:28:04,551
Where the land dips steeply into the sea,
259
00:28:04,790 --> 00:28:10,092
the territory between the tides is not miles
across but condensed into a narrow band.
260
00:28:10,495 --> 00:28:16,730
The creatures that live here, like all intertidal
creatures, are threatened by two dangers.
261
00:28:17,435 --> 00:28:21,929
At the high-water mark,
there are physical problems of being dried out,
262
00:28:22,140 --> 00:28:25,200
and at the low-water mark,
there are biological problems
263
00:28:25,377 --> 00:28:30,405
of animals that creep up from the sea
to prey upon the intertidal creatures.
264
00:28:30,615 --> 00:28:33,311
The interplay of those two sets of problems
265
00:28:33,485 --> 00:28:37,649
produces a series of horizontal bands
along the coast,
266
00:28:37,923 --> 00:28:40,551
each dominated by the particular species
267
00:28:40,725 --> 00:28:45,128
which best deals with the problems
at that particular level.
268
00:28:45,430 --> 00:28:49,332
Such bands can be seen on coasts
all over the world,
269
00:28:49,534 --> 00:28:54,335
but here on the north-west coast of America,
they are strikingly clear.
270
00:28:55,006 --> 00:28:57,406
The bottom band of all is only fully exposed
271
00:28:57,576 --> 00:29:01,512
when the moon and the sun
are in such an alignment that they pull together
272
00:29:01,680 --> 00:29:04,979
and the tide withdraws a long way
from the edge of the dry land.
273
00:29:05,684 --> 00:29:09,176
Organisms here only tolerate
a brief exposure to the air
274
00:29:09,387 --> 00:29:13,414
and are unable to prevent themselves
from being dried out.
275
00:29:19,297 --> 00:29:23,324
The sea urchin, in water,
gnaws away at encrusting algae.
276
00:29:25,604 --> 00:29:29,597
But out of water, it can do nothing
but simply hang on to the rocks.
277
00:29:30,342 --> 00:29:33,641
Nearby, giant sea anemones
droop their tentacles,
278
00:29:33,812 --> 00:29:37,213
and many withdraw them,
for in air there is nothing to feed on.
279
00:29:53,064 --> 00:29:56,932
Sea squirts can only filter
for their food spasmodically.
280
00:29:58,436 --> 00:30:03,066
Starfish are meat-eaters,
and this species feeds on mussels.
281
00:30:03,308 --> 00:30:07,301
It envelops them with its adhesive arms,
wrenches apart their shells,
282
00:30:07,479 --> 00:30:09,003
and feeds on the flesh within.
283
00:30:09,381 --> 00:30:13,909
Below low-water mark,
they kill any mussel that tries to establish itsel
284
00:30:14,152 --> 00:30:18,316
But like many of these low-level creatures,
they can't feed out of water.
285
00:30:18,590 --> 00:30:24,825
So higher up, where the rocks are exposed
to air for longer, conditions favour the mussels,
286
00:30:24,996 --> 00:30:26,657
and they form a dense band,
287
00:30:26,831 --> 00:30:31,200
cropped at the lower edge by starfish,
but beyond their reach higher up.
288
00:30:37,275 --> 00:30:41,541
The massed mussels provide shelter
for lots of other creatures:
289
00:30:41,713 --> 00:30:44,773
Small starfish, too small to tackle a mussel,
290
00:30:45,016 --> 00:30:49,578
worms and crustaceans,
winkles and other molluscs.
291
00:30:57,495 --> 00:31:00,487
The mussels hold on to the rocks
with bundles of threads,
292
00:31:00,699 --> 00:31:03,532
but can't withstand the pull of the roughest waves
293
00:31:03,768 --> 00:31:07,169
and in winter storms,
sheets of them may be ripped away.
294
00:31:21,486 --> 00:31:25,616
In more exposed places
where the waves beat with a particular ferocity,
295
00:31:25,857 --> 00:31:31,727
mussels give way to goose-necked barnacles
which clasp the rock with a long fleshy foot.
296
00:31:42,674 --> 00:31:48,169
They feed by holding out stiff, fan-like arms
which catch particles from the waves,
297
00:31:48,346 --> 00:31:52,407
not when they crash in,
but as their waters flow gently back.
298
00:32:12,637 --> 00:32:18,269
On the most exposed promontories,
the mussels are ousted by a plant:
299
00:32:18,543 --> 00:32:20,670
An odd-looking alga known as a sea palm
300
00:32:20,845 --> 00:32:24,440
which lives only
on these north-western coasts of North America.
301
00:32:27,318 --> 00:32:29,752
The crown of leaves
at the top of its rubbery stem
302
00:32:29,921 --> 00:32:36,622
enables the sea palm to harness the power
of the waves and use it to attack the mussels.
303
00:32:36,961 --> 00:32:40,522
The plants, perhaps surprisingly, are annual.
304
00:32:40,799 --> 00:32:46,032
In the spring, an individual plant
may achieve the difficult feat
305
00:32:46,271 --> 00:32:51,709
of getting hold of an individual mussel
in the mussel bed, as this one has done.
306
00:32:52,844 --> 00:32:56,280
When it's mature, it will produce spores,
307
00:32:56,448 --> 00:33:00,077
but only when it's out of water as it is now.
308
00:33:00,385 --> 00:33:06,847
So instead of the spores being distributed widely
as those of other plants are...
309
00:33:07,058 --> 00:33:12,018
...the spores of the sea palm
trickle down the grooves in these leaves
310
00:33:12,197 --> 00:33:14,757
and into the mussel bed here.
311
00:33:15,667 --> 00:33:18,864
When the first storms of the autumn come,
312
00:33:19,304 --> 00:33:26,039
they may catch
underneath the fronds of this plant and rip it up.
313
00:33:26,377 --> 00:33:32,043
But the holdfast grips the mussels so firmly
that the mussels come away with it,
314
00:33:32,217 --> 00:33:33,582
revealing the bare rock,
315
00:33:33,751 --> 00:33:39,621
and that means
that the offspring of other nearby plants
316
00:33:39,791 --> 00:33:43,192
can get a hold on the bare rock.
317
00:33:43,628 --> 00:33:49,828
So by the sacrifice of one palm
growing on a mussel one year,
318
00:33:50,101 --> 00:33:56,700
next year there will be a whole grove of palms
growing firmly on the bedrock.
319
00:34:07,919 --> 00:34:13,084
But mussels do require
a certain amount of immersion every day
320
00:34:13,258 --> 00:34:15,749
if they are not to dry out and die,
321
00:34:16,027 --> 00:34:18,723
and this line marks exactly that.
322
00:34:19,130 --> 00:34:21,462
Above it, no mussel can live.
323
00:34:21,733 --> 00:34:25,863
The creatures that can are these: Barnacles.
324
00:34:26,638 --> 00:34:32,668
Clamped tightly to the rocks, they conserve
very effectively the moisture within their shells.
325
00:34:32,877 --> 00:34:37,109
They collect the minute quantities of food
they require to grow and reproduce
326
00:34:37,282 --> 00:34:40,649
from the relatively infrequent submersions
at high tide,
327
00:34:40,885 --> 00:34:45,447
which in some cases
may only occur for an hour once a month.
328
00:35:10,848 --> 00:35:14,614
So each level on a rocky shore
is dominated by the organisms
329
00:35:14,786 --> 00:35:19,223
that best deal with the precise combination
of pounding by the waves,
330
00:35:19,424 --> 00:35:22,791
exposure to the air,
and attack by deep-water predators.
331
00:35:23,161 --> 00:35:26,096
None, in the long run,
can claim permanent occupation,
332
00:35:26,264 --> 00:35:29,131
for the attacks of the waves are unceasing.
333
00:35:57,528 --> 00:36:01,521
With unfailing accuracy,
the sea picks out the softer parts of the rocks
334
00:36:01,699 --> 00:36:03,326
and cuts its way into them.
335
00:36:03,635 --> 00:36:07,435
Water at great pressure
is driven into joints and cracks
336
00:36:07,605 --> 00:36:11,132
until it penetrates a cliff
and forms a blowhole.
337
00:36:15,513 --> 00:36:20,746
On the southernmost tip of Australia, storms
of great ferocity sweeping up from the south,
338
00:36:20,918 --> 00:36:23,887
with the full force
of the Antarctic gales behind them,
339
00:36:24,122 --> 00:36:31,585
beat away at sandstone cliffs which have lines
of weakness that run horizontally and vertically,
340
00:36:31,929 --> 00:36:34,955
so the rock is cut away in huge blocks.
341
00:37:11,069 --> 00:37:14,766
The sea, having demolished the cliffs,
then works on the debris.
342
00:37:15,006 --> 00:37:18,908
During storms, it picks up the boulders
and hurls them at the cliff face.
343
00:37:19,143 --> 00:37:24,672
At calmer times, it rolls the rocks over the seabe
and casts them up on shingle banks.
344
00:37:25,049 --> 00:37:30,681
Every movement chips and grinds the fragments
until they are reduced to sand grains,
345
00:37:30,988 --> 00:37:35,857
and now even a gentle current can pick them up
and carry them for miles down the coast,
346
00:37:36,060 --> 00:37:39,086
eventually to abandon them in banks and strands
347
00:37:39,263 --> 00:37:42,289
in the lee of islands or in sheltered bays.
348
00:38:55,840 --> 00:39:00,709
Every wave of every tide
stirs up the surface of the sand,
349
00:39:00,945 --> 00:39:08,283
so plants find it impossible to get any grip on it
as they can on rocky shores or mudflats.
350
00:39:08,586 --> 00:39:15,992
So a beach like this looks as lifeless
as any part of the margins of the land.
351
00:39:16,461 --> 00:39:20,557
But if the sand grains
are not too small and compacted,
352
00:39:20,798 --> 00:39:25,895
then each will retain around it
a thin film of moisture even when the tide is out,
353
00:39:26,103 --> 00:39:29,903
and in that microscopic space, animals can live.
354
00:39:32,743 --> 00:39:37,180
These translucent boulders are,
in fact, sand grains,
355
00:39:37,381 --> 00:39:42,546
and the tiny snake-like animal
a worm that could sit on a pinhead.
356
00:39:57,168 --> 00:39:59,102
All these inhabitants of the sand
357
00:39:59,270 --> 00:40:03,764
are, necessarily,
adept at writhing, gliding and crawling
358
00:40:03,941 --> 00:40:10,005
as they search for the few edible fragments
trapped between grains, or pursue one another.
359
00:40:21,959 --> 00:40:27,192
This one is only a temporary lodger in the sand.
It is the larva of a mollusc.
360
00:40:31,669 --> 00:40:35,230
A hydra lives here. It's like the one
that's common in freshwater ponds,
361
00:40:35,406 --> 00:40:39,365
but it has one elongated tentacle
with which it anchors itself.
362
00:40:41,312 --> 00:40:45,078
A nematode worm produces glue
from a gland on its tail
363
00:40:45,249 --> 00:40:47,547
which helps it to maintain its position.
364
00:40:56,394 --> 00:41:00,194
This is another larva
that at the beginning of its life floats in the se
365
00:41:00,398 --> 00:41:03,856
but settles down into the sand
to continue its development.
366
00:41:04,435 --> 00:41:07,836
It builds a tiny tube of mucus
which it carries about with it
367
00:41:08,005 --> 00:41:10,803
and clings to with bristles on its flanks.
368
00:41:19,650 --> 00:41:24,587
When it grows up, it does the same thing
on a larger scale, above the sand.
369
00:41:24,956 --> 00:41:27,424
It's a worm called the sand mason.
370
00:41:29,226 --> 00:41:32,821
Now it not only builds a tube,
but it adds long tassels to the top.
371
00:41:33,064 --> 00:41:36,864
These slow down the water
so that suspended food particles fall
372
00:41:37,034 --> 00:41:39,332
and can be gathered by the waving tentacles.
373
00:41:40,071 --> 00:41:43,268
The tubes need constant renewal,
374
00:41:43,474 --> 00:41:48,502
and this is how the sand mason does it,
speeded up 125 times.
375
00:42:31,055 --> 00:42:34,513
Although plants can't grow
on these perpetually moving sands,
376
00:42:34,792 --> 00:42:39,491
those dislodged from the rocky parts of the coast
by waves are washed up here,
377
00:42:39,830 --> 00:42:43,129
and there are plenty of creatures
on the beach waiting for them.
378
00:42:55,579 --> 00:42:57,342
These are sand-hoppers.
379
00:42:57,581 --> 00:43:01,540
They hide below the surface
to avoid being baked and dried out by the sun,
380
00:43:01,786 --> 00:43:04,084
but now there is food to be had.
381
00:43:20,771 --> 00:43:23,433
On many beaches, their numbers are astronomic.
382
00:43:23,708 --> 00:43:29,374
There can be as many as 25,000 of them
in one square yard of beach sand.
383
00:43:41,926 --> 00:43:44,952
The sand-hoppers favour rotting vegetation.
384
00:43:45,596 --> 00:43:48,793
Rotting flesh attracts crabs.
385
00:43:57,241 --> 00:44:01,371
The remains of a squid
is a banquet for ghost crabs.
386
00:44:22,333 --> 00:44:25,427
Occasionally, when there is a chance,
it may be better to cut off a length
387
00:44:25,603 --> 00:44:29,061
and haul it away
to consume it in the privacy of a burrow.
388
00:44:33,811 --> 00:44:37,269
The crabs and the shrimps
live close to the high-tide mark.
389
00:44:37,515 --> 00:44:42,009
The incoming waters
bring with them another team of scavengers.
390
00:44:43,587 --> 00:44:48,889
This periscope on a South African beach
belongs to a mollusc: A plough snail.
391
00:44:53,931 --> 00:44:57,594
It inflates its plough-like foot
by pumping in water,
392
00:44:57,835 --> 00:45:01,965
and it uses it not so much as a ploughshare
as a surfboard.
393
00:45:02,473 --> 00:45:07,877
The waters pick it up and wash it swiftly inshore,
together with its potential food...
394
00:45:11,382 --> 00:45:12,974
...a stranded jellyfish.
395
00:45:22,226 --> 00:45:27,061
The plough snails detect its presence
from the taste of decay in the surrounding water
396
00:45:27,264 --> 00:45:29,664
and advance on it with great speed.
397
00:46:06,403 --> 00:46:10,669
To avoid being swept up the beach
and being stranded, they eat fast,
398
00:46:10,841 --> 00:46:15,210
and then, while there is some food left,
they burrow into the sand.
399
00:46:15,779 --> 00:46:17,713
There they wait for the tide to turn
400
00:46:17,882 --> 00:46:22,444
so that they can ride back on their surfboards
to deeper water and safety.
401
00:46:29,326 --> 00:46:34,559
Very few sea creatures venture
above the limit of the highest tide and survive.
402
00:46:34,899 --> 00:46:39,836
One group of animals is compelled to do so
by the nature of their ancestry,
403
00:46:40,037 --> 00:46:45,236
and on this one beach in Costa Rica,
they stage an astonishing invasion.
404
00:46:46,644 --> 00:46:47,906
Turtles.
405
00:46:48,445 --> 00:46:53,246
They are Ridleys, the smallest of
the sea-going turtles, only a couple of feet long.
406
00:46:54,218 --> 00:46:56,652
Turtles are descended from land-living reptiles,
407
00:46:56,820 --> 00:47:01,621
and, like all reptiles,
they lay eggs that only develop and hatch in air.
408
00:47:01,892 --> 00:47:07,660
Every year, adult females,
having mated at sea, must move onto dry land.
409
00:47:12,503 --> 00:47:16,769
They arrive at a rate of up to 5,000 an hour.
410
00:47:17,207 --> 00:47:21,735
They use only one or two of the thousands
of beaches that seem to be suitable.
411
00:47:21,979 --> 00:47:26,211
What is more, they only choose to do so
on just a few nights in the year
412
00:47:26,383 --> 00:47:28,442
between August and November.
413
00:47:36,160 --> 00:47:38,151
Efficient though their flippers are in water,
414
00:47:38,362 --> 00:47:42,423
they are barely strong enough
to lift the turtle clear of the sand.
415
00:47:42,666 --> 00:47:44,998
It has to drag itself up the beach.
416
00:47:46,904 --> 00:47:50,305
This mass breeding
may be an advantage to the turtle.
417
00:47:50,474 --> 00:47:53,068
Since it only occurs on a few nights a year,
418
00:47:53,410 --> 00:47:56,868
their eggs can't support
a large permanent population of predators,
419
00:47:57,147 --> 00:48:00,241
as they might
if the turtles were to lay over several months.
420
00:48:00,951 --> 00:48:03,977
Yet, even so,
for reasons that we still don't understand,
421
00:48:04,221 --> 00:48:09,818
less than one in a hundred of the eggs
produces a hatchling which reaches the sea.
422
00:48:10,894 --> 00:48:13,727
Each female lays a hundred or so.
423
00:48:26,910 --> 00:48:29,811
That done, she carefully fills in the hole.
424
00:48:47,398 --> 00:48:51,767
A few coatimundi and vultures
come down from the forest to plunder,
425
00:48:52,002 --> 00:48:55,403
but they make little impact
on the millions of eggs that are laid.
426
00:49:03,781 --> 00:49:07,740
Next night, many thousands more Ridleys arrive.
427
00:49:16,293 --> 00:49:22,027
On other beaches, more secretly,
other very different turtles are laying.
428
00:49:23,867 --> 00:49:30,773
This is the largest of all the marine turtles.
429
00:49:31,041 --> 00:49:35,876
This magnificent creature
is the giant leatherback turtle.
430
00:49:36,113 --> 00:49:38,843
And it's a most mysterious animal.
431
00:49:39,183 --> 00:49:42,482
It's a solitary wanderer of the oceans.
432
00:49:42,786 --> 00:49:49,123
Individuals turn up almost anywhere in the tropics
but they go much farther than that.
433
00:49:49,460 --> 00:49:52,190
They've been recorded as far south as Argentina,
434
00:49:52,396 --> 00:49:55,729
and as far north as the British Isles
and North America.
435
00:49:56,066 --> 00:49:59,900
It's a creature of mystery,
because although we know what it feeds on,
436
00:50:00,070 --> 00:50:06,805
which is sea urchins and fish and, oddly enough,
jellyfish, we know little else about it.
437
00:50:07,044 --> 00:50:11,777
We don't know how long they live.
We don't know how the male finds females.
438
00:50:11,982 --> 00:50:18,387
We don't know how females navigate
to find nesting sites like this one.
439
00:50:18,622 --> 00:50:24,458
Indeed we didn't know where
the main nesting sites were until 25 years ago.
440
00:50:24,628 --> 00:50:30,225
Then it was discovered that some nested
on the Suriname coast of South America
441
00:50:30,467 --> 00:50:34,335
and some nested here,
on the east coast of Malaysia.
442
00:50:34,671 --> 00:50:38,835
Of course, the people here
have always known about the turtles
443
00:50:39,009 --> 00:50:42,103
and have always plundered those eggs.
444
00:50:42,346 --> 00:50:46,339
Today, however,
there are more people than ever here,
445
00:50:46,583 --> 00:50:50,314
and the eggs are plundered more seriously,
446
00:50:50,487 --> 00:50:55,857
so undoubtedly, this huge
and extraordinary creature is in danger.
447
00:50:56,860 --> 00:51:02,355
But maybe the leatherback turtle has
other breeding grounds that we don't know about.
448
00:51:02,566 --> 00:51:08,402
Maybe it goes to small, tiny coral islands
in the emptiness of the ocean
449
00:51:08,572 --> 00:51:11,939
to find beaches far away from man.
450
00:51:12,176 --> 00:51:17,307
That, indeed, is where we ourselves
will be going in the next programme.
451
00:51:17,357 --> 00:51:21,907
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