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Our planet, the earth, is,
as far as we know, unique in the universe.
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It contains life. Even in its most barren stretche
there are animals.
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Around the equator,
where those two essentials for life,
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sunshine and moisture, are most abundant,
great forests grow,
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and here plants and animals
proliferate in such numbers
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that we still have not even named
all the different species.
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Here, animals and plants,
insects and birds, mammals and man
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live together in intimate and complex communities,
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each dependent on one another.
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Two thirds of the surface of this unique planet
are covered by water,
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and it was here indeed that life began.
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From the oceans, it has spread
even to the summits of the highest mountains,
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as animals and plants have responded
to the changing face of the earth.
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This river, the Kali Gandaki,
has cut its way, in the most remarkable fashion,
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through the highest range of mountains
in the world, the Himalaya.
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To the east of me rises Annapurna,
over 23,000 feet high.
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To the west, Dhaulagiri, even higher.
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Their two summits are a mere 22 miles apart,
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and I am four vertical miles below them.
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And that makes this
the deepest valley in the world.
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At this altitude, about 7,000 feet, it's quite war
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and animal and plant life on the flanks
of the valley is both rich and abundant.
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The blossoms on these trees
may well look familiar.
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Flowers like them
grow in gardens all over the world.
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But these are wild plants and this is
their original home. They're rhododendrons.
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And here they are food for monkeys, grey langurs,
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reminders that the hot plains of Southern Nepal
and the tropics
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are not far away to the south.
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But they aren'tjust monkey food.
They are the rhododendrons' advertisements,
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attracting birds and insects
which will sip their nectar, gather their pollen,
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and so bring about their fertilisation.
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The ring-necked parakeet
also comes from the tropics.
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Here, it's at the top of its range.
Any higher and the weather will be too cold for it
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Beneath the rhododendrons
live several species
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of those most splendid of Asia's birds,
the pheasants.
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The blood pheasant, for all its delicate beauty,
is a plainer member of the family.
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The cock Tragopan
is surely the most magnificent.
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Until, that is,
you see a cock lmpeyan pheasant,
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with the coronet of a peacock
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and the burnished, metallic iridescence
of a tropical butterfly.
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The lmpeyan's hen,
like those of all pheasants, is comparatively dull
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This deepest of all valleys in the world
enables you to walk within a few days
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from the tropics, in its lower reaches,
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to the equivalent of the poles
on the slopes high above,
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and to see as you make the journey
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how closely animals and plants are matched
to the changing circumstances.
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As you walk higher, the rhododendron forest
gets thinner and hung with moss.
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The air is moist
and it can be quite warm during the day.
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And now, in summer, there are orchids here.
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On the ground beneath,
flowers appear in close-packed bunches,
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protecting one another from the night frosts.
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The little Himalayan panda is certainly
very well protected against the cold.
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00:06:11,671 --> 00:06:14,504
Not only does it have warm, dense fur,
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but, like many animals that spend time
in the snow, it has hair on the soles of its feet.
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That keeps its feet warm on the snow
and stops it from sliding on ice.
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Now, in the summer, it also helps
in getting a grip on wet, slippery branches.
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It's primarily a vegetarian,
collecting buds and leaves and fruit,
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but it also takes eggs from a bird's nest,
if it can find one.
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On the ground,
and scarcely bigger than the panda,
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one of the shyest animals
of the Himalayan forests, a musk deer.
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In these tangled trees,
antlers would be a considerable handicap,
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and the musk deer doesn't develop them.
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A male fights instead
with the sharp tusks in his upperjaw.
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They feed on moss, lichen and leaves,
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and are so agile
and well-adapted to a mountain life
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that they can climb steep cliffs
in search of food.
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When a musk deer or any other animal
of any size dies, the vultures come.
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These are griffons,
similar to those that circle the skies
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above Indian villages
down in the hot foothills.
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They are common in this forest
up to 7,000 or 8,000 feet.
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So the lives of all these creatures are connected,
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one with the other,
either directly or indirectly,
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and all are ultimately dependent
upon the vegetation.
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00:08:21,501 --> 00:08:26,871
But both animals and plants are also
greatly affected by the physical environment.
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I've climbed several thousand feet now
and things are beginning to change.
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It's getting colder, and the rhododendrons
are giving way to fir trees,
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and that will mean
a change in the animals that live here.
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The yellow-throated martin
has a broad taste in food.
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It takes fruit on occasion,
catches insects now and then,
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but it relishes small rodents, like mice
and squirrels, and there are quite a lot here.
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Even in winter, when the forests
are deep in snow, it will remain active.
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But it's a great traveller,
and if it gets very cold,
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it will descend to lower altitudes for a spell.
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00:09:21,360 --> 00:09:25,126
The Himalayan bear is capable
of living very high indeed.
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Its thick fur protects it against severe cold,
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but its range is not limited by temperature
so much as food supply.
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In spite of its size,
it seldom tackles any animal bigger than a mouse,
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and it lives for most of the time
on ants, grubs, nuts and leaves,
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so it seldom goes any higher
than the forest can grow.
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And now, getting on for 10,000 feet up,
the forest is beginning to thin.
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00:09:58,965 --> 00:10:03,459
In summer, there's not much rain here,
for most has fallen at lower altitudes.
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00:10:03,803 --> 00:10:06,431
In winter, it gets extremely cold.
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Those conditions don't suit rhododendrons.
Here only conifers flourish in large numbers.
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00:10:14,080 --> 00:10:17,743
High though we are,
the Kali Gandaki is still a very broad river.
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Remarkably, and mysteriously,
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it doesn't rise from the flanks of these
giant mountains but cuts right through them.
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00:10:26,258 --> 00:10:28,818
The people of the foothills
have long since recognised
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the value of this extraordinary corridor
that leads right through the Himalayas,
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and all summer
trains of mules trudge up the valley,
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taking barley and buckwheat
to trade with Tibetans for wool and salt.
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00:10:45,111 --> 00:10:49,309
All the way up the valley
are villages where the muleteers can rest,
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but during the summer few do so.
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00:10:52,718 --> 00:10:56,415
Most trudge tirelessly upwards
for as long as there's daylight.
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00:11:43,035 --> 00:11:45,902
A lammergeier, the bearded vulture,
a mountain bird
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that soars around the high valleys of Asia
and a few remote parts of Europe,
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but nowhere higher than this.
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00:11:59,485 --> 00:12:03,546
And a sign that now we are getting really high:
Snow cock.
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00:12:03,756 --> 00:12:07,624
Its dappled white plumage gives it camouflage
against the broken snow
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00:12:07,827 --> 00:12:11,319
that even now, in summer,
can fall at these altitudes.
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00:12:11,697 --> 00:12:14,757
They forage for seeds and rootlets
in the thin turf.
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00:12:26,045 --> 00:12:30,505
There are no trees now,
just a few small shrubs and dry, withered grass.
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But that's enough for the tahr.
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It is neither a sheep nor a goat,
but related equally to both.
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It will eat almost anything that's green,
and is grateful to find it in this bleak land.
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00:12:43,629 --> 00:12:47,929
Another typically mountain creature:
The red-billed chough, a kind of crow.
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They search the rocks for insects, grubs,
odd seeds. They will take most things.
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00:13:01,680 --> 00:13:06,208
Their cousins, yellow-billed choughs,
go as high as any bird in the world,
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riding the rising wind currents
to the height of the snow peaks themselves.
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00:13:35,447 --> 00:13:39,850
Flowers at this altitude
can only come from small cushion plants,
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00:13:40,019 --> 00:13:42,249
huddled together against the cold.
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00:13:43,422 --> 00:13:46,323
Higher still, little can grow except lichens.
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00:13:46,559 --> 00:13:50,962
Now it's so cold that growth may only be possible
for a few days in the year.
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00:13:53,866 --> 00:13:57,802
And yet, in these bleak regions,
people live.
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To help plough the fields,
they use the yak,
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a domesticated creature
that once roamed wild on the plains of Tibet,
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the only large mammal
that lives permanently as high as man.
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00:14:12,251 --> 00:14:16,745
The people, Bhotias and Sherpas,
grow not only barley but potatoes,
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a crop that was first cultivated
by the Incas in the Andes
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and was introduced here a century or so ago.
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00:14:24,396 --> 00:14:28,765
These highland people are well-adapted
to life at these altitudes.
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Their blood contains a particularly high number
of red corpuscles
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and so can carry more oxygen in it
than a lowlander's can.
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00:14:39,211 --> 00:14:43,773
Certainly, when it comes to walking
at these high altitudes,
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they're very much better adapted than I am.
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00:14:48,320 --> 00:14:55,852
So, all the living creatures in these high valleys
are adapted to their environment,
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both their biological environment
and their physical environment.
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00:15:00,132 --> 00:15:07,265
And yet, in terms of biological history,
those adaptations are very recent indeed.
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00:15:07,940 --> 00:15:14,869
These immense mountains, the eternal hills,
are in fact far from eternal.
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They are younger
than the plains of India to the south
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or the plateau of Tibet to the north.
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00:15:23,188 --> 00:15:29,650
They were raised to their present height
about 35 million years ago
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from the bottom of the sea.
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And what is the evidence
for that extraordinary statement?
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It can be found all over the place, just up here.
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These slopes are littered
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with fragments like these.
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This is obviously a shell
that's been turned to stone, a fossil.
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00:16:04,196 --> 00:16:08,929
Although there are no molluscs alive today
exactly like this one,
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there are some which are sufficiently similar
for us to be sure that it lived in water.
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00:16:14,740 --> 00:16:18,267
And if we analyse the rock
in which it's embedded,
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it's clear that that was mud
laid down at the bottom of a sea.
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But I am as far as I can be from the sea.
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I am in the middle of Asia, miles from
the sea, and over two vertical miles above it.
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What forces could possibly have raised
the seabed to these heights?
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We now know that those forces
are still in action,
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that these mountains are still rising
and that land is still being created.
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00:17:13,999 --> 00:17:15,261
I'm in Iceland.
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00:17:15,901 --> 00:17:21,305
This fantastic fountain of fire
rising 200 feet or so into the air behind me
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is molten rock.
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00:17:24,309 --> 00:17:29,906
Fine ash is falling all around,
there are gusts of choking, poisonous gas,
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and it's so hot
that this is just about as close as I can get to i
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The sheer weight
of these molten ingots of rock
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prevents them being swept away
from the vent by the gale,
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so there's little danger of them
suddenly coming our way.
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00:18:05,184 --> 00:18:09,280
Less dramatic than the fire fountain
but perhaps more sinister
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is this tide of black slag that is slowly
creeping over the surface of the land.
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00:18:15,894 --> 00:18:19,921
In parts it's red-hot and molten
and flows like treacle,
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00:18:20,132 --> 00:18:24,626
but on the edges it's cooled enough
for me to handle it.
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It's black, it's heavy and it's called basalt.
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00:18:29,641 --> 00:18:34,305
Basalt like this has been welling up
from deep in the earth's crust
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since the beginning
of the history of our planet.
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A flow may travel for as much as 25 miles.
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00:18:51,263 --> 00:18:54,528
Sometimes it moves no faster
than a man can walk,
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00:18:54,733 --> 00:18:58,134
but sometimes it races along
at an extraordinary speed,
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00:18:58,303 --> 00:19:01,932
40 miles an hour,
and nothing... nothing... can stop it.
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00:19:14,386 --> 00:19:16,479
Sometimes so much lava is produced
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that it accumulates
in flows 100 feet or so thick.
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00:19:20,726 --> 00:19:24,992
Then the centre layers of it
cool exceptionally slowly and very evenly,
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00:19:25,164 --> 00:19:27,223
and this is the result.
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00:19:29,501 --> 00:19:34,336
Here, at the Giant's Causeway,
the top of the lava flow has been eroded away,
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00:19:34,506 --> 00:19:37,304
for the eruptions took place
50 million years ago.
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00:19:37,876 --> 00:19:41,778
The cooling contractions have produced
the effect you see in drying mud,
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though here the cracks
extend to a greater depth
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00:19:44,550 --> 00:19:48,714
to produce six-sided columns
a foot and a half across.
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00:19:51,757 --> 00:19:56,626
In the Hebrides, there's another lava flow
that erupted at about the same time
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00:19:56,795 --> 00:19:58,786
and formed Fingal's Cave.
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The layer of lava that slowed down
the cooling of the interior is still uneroded,
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00:20:09,608 --> 00:20:14,443
and beneath it the near-perfect
basalt columns rise almost 20 feet high.
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00:20:37,669 --> 00:20:43,073
Basalt that doesn't contain very much gas
wells out from below almost quietly.
190
00:21:13,438 --> 00:21:16,339
But if the lava has been extruded
under great pressure,
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00:21:16,508 --> 00:21:20,342
it may be full of gas,
and then it behaves very differently.
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00:21:28,420 --> 00:21:33,881
Sometimes a flow sweeps down
over a forest, incinerating the trees in its path.
193
00:21:54,913 --> 00:22:01,284
Most dramatic of all, the lava sometimes
wells up inside a crater and can't escape.
194
00:22:01,486 --> 00:22:05,513
Then it forms that most fearsome
of nature's spectacles, a lava lake,
195
00:22:05,691 --> 00:22:08,319
like this one in Nyiragongo in Africa.
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00:22:08,960 --> 00:22:14,626
This lava is over 1,000 degrees centigrade,
2,000 degrees Fahrenheit.
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00:22:15,000 --> 00:22:19,061
The bubbles of gas that burst from its surface
may be 50 feet across.
198
00:22:19,438 --> 00:22:23,772
Sometimes, having got rid of much of its gas,
like beer losing its fizz,
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00:22:23,942 --> 00:22:31,508
it sinks back down the pipe and returns
to the lava chamber a mile or so below.
200
00:22:33,752 --> 00:22:36,721
But lava lakes fed by pipes are not common.
201
00:22:37,055 --> 00:22:42,459
Basalt more usually comes to the surface
in a rather different way.
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00:22:52,771 --> 00:22:58,607
These Icelandic volcanoes erupt
from huge cracks or fissures
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which regularly open up in a line
which runs right across the width of the island.
204
00:23:04,649 --> 00:23:09,916
But that line itself is only
the northern end of a huge line of weakness
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that runs for thousands of miles
southwards from Iceland
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00:23:14,126 --> 00:23:16,151
right round the side of the globe.
207
00:23:18,797 --> 00:23:22,927
Iceland lies between Norway and Greenland,
south of the Arctic Circle.
208
00:23:23,135 --> 00:23:26,536
The crack, ridged over by lava,
is mostly underwater,
209
00:23:26,705 --> 00:23:30,573
which is why its existence wasn't known
until the beginning of this century.
210
00:23:31,209 --> 00:23:36,078
It runs between Europe and Africa
to the east and the Americas to the west.
211
00:23:36,548 --> 00:23:39,949
In places, it rises above the sea
to form volcanic islands:
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00:23:40,118 --> 00:23:45,852
The Azores, the Cape Verdes, Ascension,
St Helena, Tristan da Cunha.
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00:23:46,291 --> 00:23:49,954
But below the surface
the lava is also continually erupting,
214
00:23:50,128 --> 00:23:53,529
unseen by human eyes
until only a few years ago.
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00:24:24,463 --> 00:24:26,988
The clouds of gas come from the lava itself.
216
00:24:27,165 --> 00:24:32,125
They're not steam. The pressure of the water
prevents that from being produced.
217
00:24:32,471 --> 00:24:35,702
The heat is rapidly absorbed
by the vastness of the ocean itself
218
00:24:35,874 --> 00:24:40,743
so that the lava cools and congeals
much more quickly than it would do in the air.
219
00:24:49,221 --> 00:24:53,453
Eruptions like these, at great depths,
built the Atlantic ridge.
220
00:24:53,725 --> 00:24:59,357
But the basalt forms not only the ridge itself
but the sea floor on either side.
221
00:24:59,931 --> 00:25:03,230
By dating it chemically,
we know that the farther it is
222
00:25:03,401 --> 00:25:06,199
from the centre of the ridge, the older it is.
223
00:25:06,571 --> 00:25:10,371
Basalt is welling up
in a molten state at the ridge
224
00:25:10,542 --> 00:25:15,002
and then, as it solidifies,
is moving away on either side.
225
00:25:15,447 --> 00:25:19,144
We still don't fully understand
the forces that power the process,
226
00:25:19,351 --> 00:25:25,779
but 50 to 30 miles below the earth's surface
it's so hot that the rocks are molten
227
00:25:25,957 --> 00:25:30,724
and currents in them are welling up
beneath the ridge, causing eruptions,
228
00:25:30,896 --> 00:25:36,163
and then flowing away on either side,
pulling the plates of the ocean floor with them.
229
00:25:36,735 --> 00:25:40,432
It was this movement that dragged apart
Africa and South America
230
00:25:40,605 --> 00:25:43,073
and created the Atlantic Ocean.
231
00:25:47,112 --> 00:25:49,103
Similar things have happened in the Pacific.
232
00:25:49,481 --> 00:25:52,939
The great plate
that forms the eastern part of the ocean floor
233
00:25:53,118 --> 00:25:56,019
is moving towards the west coast of America.
234
00:25:56,388 --> 00:25:59,915
But where it meets the continent,
it dives downwards,
235
00:26:00,091 --> 00:26:03,083
perhaps pulled by the descending current
in the crust below,
236
00:26:03,261 --> 00:26:06,321
producing a deep trench in the ocean floor.
237
00:26:08,266 --> 00:26:13,431
As it goes down, it takes with it
sediments from the bottom of the ocean
238
00:26:13,605 --> 00:26:15,163
and also some water.
239
00:26:16,241 --> 00:26:21,611
These new ingredients melt
and interact with the rocks of the interior
240
00:26:21,780 --> 00:26:27,241
to produce a mixture crucially different
from the lava that erupted at the ridge.
241
00:26:27,752 --> 00:26:32,155
For one thing,
it contains much more dissolved gas and steam.
242
00:26:33,992 --> 00:26:36,586
As it rises up on the edge of the continent,
243
00:26:36,761 --> 00:26:39,958
it cools and solidifies, choking the vents.
244
00:26:41,166 --> 00:26:44,727
The effect is like screwing down
the safety valve of a boiler.
245
00:27:02,320 --> 00:27:05,380
Mount St Helens on the Pacific coast
of North America.
246
00:27:05,757 --> 00:27:07,657
On May 18th 1980,
247
00:27:07,826 --> 00:27:12,854
with an explosion 500 times as powerful
as the atomic blast at Hiroshima,
248
00:27:13,098 --> 00:27:16,625
it blew away three-quarters
of a cubic mile of rock.
249
00:27:18,603 --> 00:27:22,095
The forests around the mountain
were totally destroyed.
250
00:27:22,307 --> 00:27:26,368
Trees 200 feet tall
lay scattered like matchsticks.
251
00:27:27,646 --> 00:27:29,637
Geologists, weeks beforehand,
252
00:27:29,814 --> 00:27:33,045
watching a huge bulge develop
on the side of the mountain,
253
00:27:33,218 --> 00:27:35,743
had warned of the coming catastrophe.
254
00:27:36,254 --> 00:27:40,350
Even so, over 30 people stayed and were killed.
255
00:27:51,536 --> 00:27:55,973
On the northern side of the volcano,
there were not even trees to be seen.
256
00:27:56,207 --> 00:27:59,734
A huge avalanche of rock,
blown out by the blast,
257
00:27:59,911 --> 00:28:04,871
had slid for 15 miles down the side
of the mountain, burying everything.
258
00:28:09,154 --> 00:28:12,021
Behind it, Mount St Helens lay wrecked.
259
00:28:12,257 --> 00:28:14,521
Its summit was over 1,000 feet lower,
260
00:28:14,693 --> 00:28:18,959
and at the back of a huge amphitheatre,
from which the rock had come,
261
00:28:19,130 --> 00:28:24,033
another ominous bulge was developing,
swathed in jets of steam.
262
00:28:39,384 --> 00:28:42,842
Almost a century earlier,
on the opposite side of the Pacific,
263
00:28:43,054 --> 00:28:48,321
another catastrophic eruption had taken
place on the tiny island of Krakatau,
264
00:28:48,560 --> 00:28:53,395
in the straits between Java to the east
and Sumatra to the west.
265
00:28:53,865 --> 00:28:58,393
In 1883 it was an island
five miles long and three miles wide,
266
00:28:58,636 --> 00:29:03,505
with three volcanic peaks on it,
the highest rising to almost 3,000 feet.
267
00:29:03,975 --> 00:29:05,533
But those peaks were dormant.
268
00:29:05,710 --> 00:29:10,272
There had been no sign of any volcanic activity
within living memory.
269
00:29:10,582 --> 00:29:13,016
But in August of that year,
270
00:29:13,184 --> 00:29:16,984
people on the coast of Java
began to hear explosions.
271
00:29:17,222 --> 00:29:20,214
A great column of smoke
rose above Krakatau.
272
00:29:20,492 --> 00:29:26,089
Pieces of lava the size of a house
were being thrown high into the air.
273
00:29:26,364 --> 00:29:29,561
The explosions continued day after day.
274
00:29:29,734 --> 00:29:35,798
The column of smoke rose up
until it was five miles or so up into the sky.
275
00:29:36,174 --> 00:29:41,043
Ships that were sailing nearby
had their decks covered in ash and pumice,
276
00:29:41,212 --> 00:29:45,148
and at night
electric flames played over the rigging.
277
00:29:45,517 --> 00:29:47,542
Day after day this continued.
278
00:29:47,919 --> 00:29:51,719
And as it was doing so,
it was emptying the lava chamber
279
00:29:51,890 --> 00:29:53,755
deep in the crust beneath the sea,
280
00:29:53,925 --> 00:29:57,622
and that was the cause
of the greatest catastrophe of all.
281
00:29:57,896 --> 00:30:03,095
Because on the morning of August 27th,
Monday, at 10 o'clock,
282
00:30:03,268 --> 00:30:07,204
the roof of that lava chamber collapsed.
283
00:30:07,472 --> 00:30:10,873
Millions of tons of sea water
poured onto the red-hot lava.
284
00:30:11,042 --> 00:30:14,307
So did millions of tons of rocks.
285
00:30:14,679 --> 00:30:17,614
And this produced a titanic explosion.
286
00:30:17,949 --> 00:30:21,112
The noise was almost certainly the loudest noise
287
00:30:21,286 --> 00:30:25,245
that has ever echoed round the earth
in recorded history.
288
00:30:25,657 --> 00:30:29,252
It was heard 2,000 miles away in Australia.
289
00:30:29,561 --> 00:30:34,828
3,000 miles away on the small island
of Rodriguez in the South Atlantic,
290
00:30:34,999 --> 00:30:41,529
the commander of the garrison heard it
and thought it was distant gunfire at sea.
291
00:30:42,273 --> 00:30:45,765
The explosion also produced a tempest of wind,
292
00:30:45,944 --> 00:30:50,574
which swept out entirely round the globe
seven and a half times
293
00:30:50,748 --> 00:30:52,739
before it finally died away.
294
00:30:53,518 --> 00:30:58,649
But most catastrophic of all,
the explosion produced a tidal wave.
295
00:30:58,957 --> 00:31:05,328
It swept towards the coasts
and became a wall of water over 100 feet high.
296
00:31:05,697 --> 00:31:11,533
It crashed into the harbours,
it picked up a naval gunboat with a crew of 28
297
00:31:11,703 --> 00:31:16,868
and lifted it for over a mile inland
and dumped it on a hill.
298
00:31:17,208 --> 00:31:20,609
And it overwhelmed village after village.
299
00:31:20,879 --> 00:31:25,373
Over 33,000 people were killed.
300
00:31:26,451 --> 00:31:30,012
The pall of ash brought darkness
301
00:31:30,188 --> 00:31:33,988
over an area of 100 miles or so
for several days.
302
00:31:34,459 --> 00:31:40,420
But when it cleared away,
the island of Krakatau was unrecognisable.
303
00:31:41,566 --> 00:31:44,160
Three-quarters of the main island
had disappeared.
304
00:31:44,402 --> 00:31:48,304
The two nearby islets were buried
beneath massive deposits of ash.
305
00:31:48,539 --> 00:31:52,839
And where the tallest peak had stood,
the sea was 900 feet deep.
306
00:31:53,211 --> 00:31:59,172
But not for long. 44 years later
another island rose from the boiling sea.
307
00:32:08,960 --> 00:32:12,691
They called it Anak Krakatau:
The child of Krakatau.
308
00:32:12,997 --> 00:32:14,988
Compared with the explosions of its parent,
309
00:32:15,166 --> 00:32:18,431
its eruptions are still trivial bubblings.
310
00:32:44,329 --> 00:32:47,730
Now, after more than 50 years of fitful activity,
311
00:32:47,899 --> 00:32:51,426
Krakatau's child has built itself a new cone.
312
00:32:51,736 --> 00:32:55,035
It's still not very big, less than 1,000 feet high
313
00:32:55,540 --> 00:33:01,172
Sporadically, it explodes.
But often it's easy enough to walk round its rim.
314
00:33:10,989 --> 00:33:16,552
The fumes that boil up from its crater
are partly steam and partly sulphurous gas,
315
00:33:16,794 --> 00:33:20,890
and the sulphur condenses on the rocks,
coating them yellow.
316
00:33:23,401 --> 00:33:26,928
All volcanic eruptions spew out sulphur
in one form or another,
317
00:33:27,105 --> 00:33:29,039
including those underwater.
318
00:33:31,442 --> 00:33:33,842
Here it doesn't form yellow crystals,
319
00:33:34,012 --> 00:33:38,449
but reacts with the sea water
to produce clouds of black sulphides.
320
00:33:42,253 --> 00:33:46,087
These smokers, nearly two miles deep
on the floor of the Pacific,
321
00:33:46,257 --> 00:33:50,489
are one of the most extraordinary
scientific discoveries of recent years.
322
00:33:50,995 --> 00:33:54,988
The sulphides they produce
are food for microscopic bacteria.
323
00:33:55,533 --> 00:34:01,870
They, in turn, are consumed by a group
of creatures unlike any seen before.
324
00:34:04,075 --> 00:34:07,067
These are giant tube-worms 11 feet long.
325
00:34:07,245 --> 00:34:12,683
They have neither mouth nor gut
but absorb bacteria through their thin skin.
326
00:34:14,419 --> 00:34:17,183
And these are clams, two feet across.
327
00:34:17,388 --> 00:34:19,322
They too consume the bacteria.
328
00:34:19,657 --> 00:34:22,182
The heated water rising above the smokers
329
00:34:22,360 --> 00:34:27,195
causes currents along the sea bottom
that sweep small particles to the vents
330
00:34:27,365 --> 00:34:30,596
so there's a whole community
of creatures feeding on them.
331
00:34:30,835 --> 00:34:36,273
Small, white, blind crabs.
Strange fish, hitherto unknown.
332
00:34:38,443 --> 00:34:40,638
Until this bizarre colony was discovered,
333
00:34:40,812 --> 00:34:43,042
we had believed that all creatures on earth
334
00:34:43,214 --> 00:34:46,308
derived their energy
through plants from the sun.
335
00:34:46,851 --> 00:34:52,483
Even the deep sea creatures
fed on fragments falling from the sunlit surface.
336
00:34:52,723 --> 00:34:56,454
But here were animals
that owed nothing to the sun
337
00:34:56,627 --> 00:35:02,156
and were sustained through bacteria
by the chemical energy of volcanoes.
338
00:35:08,973 --> 00:35:12,739
But volcanoes don't remain active for ever.
339
00:35:12,944 --> 00:35:16,539
Eventually, there is some shift
deep in the earth's crust
340
00:35:16,714 --> 00:35:20,309
and the focus of the intense heat
moves away slightly
341
00:35:20,485 --> 00:35:22,680
and the eruptions come to an end.
342
00:35:22,920 --> 00:35:28,984
But if water percolates down
through the rocks to the magma chamber,
343
00:35:29,160 --> 00:35:33,859
it's still so hot that the water
is superheated and forced up again,
344
00:35:34,031 --> 00:35:36,761
like water in the spout of a boiling kettle.
345
00:35:37,235 --> 00:35:41,934
On the way, it may dissolve minerals
from the rocks through which it passes,
346
00:35:42,106 --> 00:35:48,238
and then, as it emerges as hot springs,
the minerals will be deposited in terraces,
347
00:35:48,412 --> 00:35:51,108
like these in Rotorua, in New Zealand.
348
00:36:00,091 --> 00:36:03,219
In some parts, the superheated steam
on its way to the surface
349
00:36:03,394 --> 00:36:08,593
has dissolved the softer rocks
and brings them up as boiling mud.
350
00:36:15,139 --> 00:36:19,041
Elsewhere, the boiling water
shoots spasmodically into huge fountains,
351
00:36:19,243 --> 00:36:21,711
and the whole area is wreathed in steam.
352
00:36:21,946 --> 00:36:27,111
Such a place is typical of land
where volcanic fires are on the wane.
353
00:36:27,518 --> 00:36:31,147
The famous hot springs
of Yellowstone in the Rocky Mountains
354
00:36:31,322 --> 00:36:34,223
are also heated
by a vast chamber of molten rock
355
00:36:34,392 --> 00:36:36,952
some distance down beneath the surface.
356
00:36:48,239 --> 00:36:52,198
The water welling up
from these crystal-clear, chemically rich pools
357
00:36:52,376 --> 00:36:55,868
is so hot that no creature can live in them.
358
00:36:56,347 --> 00:36:58,645
When they trickle over the brim, they cool,
359
00:36:58,816 --> 00:37:03,583
and there rich colonies of bacteria
and mats of algae begin to grow.
360
00:37:04,121 --> 00:37:07,386
They can flourish so thickly
that they break the surface
361
00:37:07,558 --> 00:37:13,292
and divert the flow of water
so that in parts they're cool enough for brine fli
362
00:37:22,907 --> 00:37:25,068
The flies come to feed on the algae.
363
00:37:30,815 --> 00:37:32,783
And here, too, they mate.
364
00:37:47,665 --> 00:37:51,465
They lay their eggs
directly in the warm mat of the algae.
365
00:37:51,736 --> 00:37:55,194
Each has a long white thread to its case,
like a seed.
366
00:38:03,381 --> 00:38:05,872
The eggs, however, are far from safe.
367
00:38:06,250 --> 00:38:09,708
They're seized by mites
that clamber about over the algae.
368
00:38:19,897 --> 00:38:23,492
Spiders, too, prowl around the grazing herds.
369
00:38:29,774 --> 00:38:32,800
A slightly larger fly moves among the brine flies.
370
00:38:32,977 --> 00:38:35,844
It too is a killer, devouring the grubs.
371
00:38:49,427 --> 00:38:53,761
So the algal mats support
a closely-knit interdependent community,
372
00:38:53,931 --> 00:38:58,391
all nourished by chemicals in the water
and energised by the volcanic heat.
373
00:38:58,936 --> 00:39:01,962
But in the end it's destroyed by its own success.
374
00:39:02,239 --> 00:39:06,505
Increasing numbers of grubs eat the algae
and weaken the mat.
375
00:39:06,744 --> 00:39:12,512
Eventually it gives way, the channel clears
and scalding water gushes down,
376
00:39:12,683 --> 00:39:17,711
killing a generation of grubs
and many hunters and parasites that live on them.
377
00:39:21,592 --> 00:39:24,789
Now the process has to start all over again.
378
00:39:41,278 --> 00:39:43,974
The hot volcanic springs
of the Rift Valley in Africa
379
00:39:44,148 --> 00:39:49,711
also support their own crops of bacteria
and the small algae that feed on them.
380
00:39:50,154 --> 00:39:53,351
But here the creatures
that come to harvest them are bigger.
381
00:39:53,791 --> 00:39:58,785
Flamingoes, sometimes as many
as a million of them on this one lake.
382
00:40:06,704 --> 00:40:10,265
These lesser flamingoes
feed entirely on single-celled algae
383
00:40:10,441 --> 00:40:14,639
that proliferate in vast quantities
in these steaming soda-rich waters.
384
00:40:15,179 --> 00:40:18,171
Flocks like these remove 150 tons
385
00:40:18,349 --> 00:40:21,546
of these microscopic plants
from this lake every day.
386
00:40:27,758 --> 00:40:29,555
Their bills have sieves inside them
387
00:40:29,727 --> 00:40:33,185
which strain off the algae
as the water passes through them.
388
00:40:37,935 --> 00:40:40,199
It's easy to see how creatures can benefit
389
00:40:40,371 --> 00:40:45,206
from the chemical riches of volcanoes
dissolved in the waters of hot springs.
390
00:40:46,010 --> 00:40:48,877
It's more difficult to imagine how any living thin
391
00:40:49,046 --> 00:40:52,447
could derive nourishment
from a basalt lava flow.
392
00:40:57,154 --> 00:41:01,352
Its surface in many places
is as smooth and as hard as glass,
393
00:41:01,525 --> 00:41:06,053
and neither frost nor roots of plants
can initially make any impression on it.
394
00:41:14,939 --> 00:41:17,100
Centuries may pass after an eruption
395
00:41:17,274 --> 00:41:21,506
before there's any sign of the surface
of such a flow beginning even to weather.
396
00:41:22,046 --> 00:41:28,076
This flow on the flanks of Mount Kilauea
in Hawaii is some 3,000 years old,
397
00:41:28,252 --> 00:41:33,986
and yet still it shows the rippled, ropy surface
that formed when it was liquid.
398
00:41:34,258 --> 00:41:39,753
But in the end the surface does erode
and plants do get root in the cracks.
399
00:41:39,997 --> 00:41:43,057
They in turn can support all kinds of other life,
400
00:41:43,234 --> 00:41:46,635
and so the lava flow is eventually colonised,
401
00:41:46,804 --> 00:41:49,898
not only on its surface but in its depths.
402
00:41:50,174 --> 00:41:54,235
For these basaltic lava flows
are often not as solid as they seem.
403
00:41:56,180 --> 00:41:59,946
When the lava first flows
out of the vent like a river,
404
00:42:00,117 --> 00:42:04,816
that on the outside of the flow
will cool quicker and solidify,
405
00:42:04,989 --> 00:42:07,549
forming walls on either side of the flow.
406
00:42:09,693 --> 00:42:15,529
The top too cools quicker,
and that causes a crust to form over the flow,
407
00:42:15,766 --> 00:42:20,430
so that eventually
the lava is flowing down a long tunnel.
408
00:42:21,005 --> 00:42:25,567
When that happens, the walls and ceiling
of the tunnel act as insulation,
409
00:42:25,743 --> 00:42:29,645
keeping the heat in,
so that the lava flow remains liquid
410
00:42:29,813 --> 00:42:32,407
and so continues for mile after mile.
411
00:42:37,521 --> 00:42:40,217
When eventually the supply of lava stops,
412
00:42:40,391 --> 00:42:46,421
that tunnel may drain,
leaving a long cavern like this one.
413
00:43:28,772 --> 00:43:32,105
Out of the reach of rain and frost and even dust,
414
00:43:32,276 --> 00:43:37,612
the surface of the lava looks as it did
when the last trickle was draining away
415
00:43:37,781 --> 00:43:42,650
and the floor was so hot that anything
touching it would be turned to a cinder.
416
00:44:01,739 --> 00:44:06,073
Molten lava had dripped from the ceiling,
it had swilled round the sides
417
00:44:06,243 --> 00:44:10,805
and spurted out in little dribbles
from cracks in the newly congealed walls.
418
00:44:11,382 --> 00:44:14,146
But living organisms have already moved in.
419
00:44:14,952 --> 00:44:20,049
These roots belong to trees
that are growing on the surface of the lava flow.
420
00:44:20,324 --> 00:44:24,317
They've found their way down
through the cracks, and here they dangle,
421
00:44:24,495 --> 00:44:28,625
catching water as it percolates through the lava
and trickles down them.
422
00:44:28,899 --> 00:44:34,963
Among the rootlets, there are animals
that live nowhere else in the world.
423
00:44:39,643 --> 00:44:42,544
Normally, these creatures are in total darkness.
424
00:44:42,913 --> 00:44:46,644
Nearly all of them,
like this cricket, have lost their pigment.
425
00:44:47,017 --> 00:44:50,214
Many of them have also lost
their wings and their eyes.
426
00:44:50,921 --> 00:44:53,685
In the blackness,
they find their way about by touch,
427
00:44:53,857 --> 00:45:00,558
and, like many cave insects elsewhere,
have developed long legs and antennae.
428
00:45:07,971 --> 00:45:10,667
Some, like this bug, are scavengers.
429
00:45:13,110 --> 00:45:16,238
Others, like the centipede, hunt.
430
00:45:21,585 --> 00:45:24,418
And the millipedes feed on the roots.
431
00:45:43,006 --> 00:45:46,237
So, in these extraordinary lava caverns,
432
00:45:46,410 --> 00:45:49,379
there is yet another community
of interdependent creatures
433
00:45:49,546 --> 00:45:53,505
that have come into existence
since the volcanoes erupted.
434
00:46:05,395 --> 00:46:09,798
The colonisation of volcanic ash
presents different problems.
435
00:46:10,033 --> 00:46:13,264
The difficulty here is not the hardness of the roc
436
00:46:13,437 --> 00:46:17,305
but quite the reverse,
its insubstantial dustiness.
437
00:46:17,741 --> 00:46:20,733
Mount St Helens is still a wasteland.
438
00:46:22,980 --> 00:46:26,973
It's now, as I speak,
some two and a quarter years
439
00:46:27,151 --> 00:46:29,119
since the volcano erupted.
440
00:46:30,187 --> 00:46:33,418
I'm some three miles from the crater,
441
00:46:33,590 --> 00:46:38,823
and still the scene
is one of devastation and sterility.
442
00:46:39,096 --> 00:46:44,227
It's notjust that
this unweathered ash is not very fertile,
443
00:46:44,401 --> 00:46:49,168
but it's also so loose
that it's difficult for plants to get root.
444
00:46:49,439 --> 00:46:52,465
But that possibility is always here.
445
00:46:52,743 --> 00:46:59,114
Here, for example, in this crevice,
there are the seeds of the willow herb,
446
00:46:59,283 --> 00:47:02,275
or, as they call it in these parts, fireweed,
447
00:47:02,452 --> 00:47:05,785
that have been blown up from the valleys below.
448
00:47:06,023 --> 00:47:09,891
I don't suppose these particular ones
will manage to get root here,
449
00:47:10,060 --> 00:47:12,494
but in the end some plant will,
450
00:47:12,663 --> 00:47:16,656
and in the end
the process of colonisation will begin.
451
00:47:20,571 --> 00:47:23,335
Krakatau's child is just 57 years old.
452
00:47:23,640 --> 00:47:26,370
Its flanks too are covered with ash,
453
00:47:26,543 --> 00:47:30,411
and they're still buried regularly
with new layers from fresh eruptions,
454
00:47:30,681 --> 00:47:34,276
yet the process of colonisation
is already under way.
455
00:47:34,918 --> 00:47:38,820
Not only are there giant grasses,
like this wild sugar cane,
456
00:47:38,989 --> 00:47:41,822
but trees: A casuarina.
457
00:47:42,025 --> 00:47:47,122
If you want to see what a century
of colonisation by plants can bring about,
458
00:47:47,297 --> 00:47:51,757
have a look at that fragment
of old Krakatau over there.
459
00:48:00,978 --> 00:48:03,606
We know from first-hand reports
that 100 years ago
460
00:48:03,780 --> 00:48:07,546
there was nothing here
but sterile ash many feet deep.
461
00:48:08,185 --> 00:48:12,554
Within three years,
34 different species of plants had reappeared.
462
00:48:12,923 --> 00:48:15,915
Ten years later there were twice that number,
463
00:48:16,093 --> 00:48:19,460
and over 100 species
of birds and insects as well.
464
00:48:19,863 --> 00:48:23,924
Some seeds must have floated here from Java,
some 20 miles away,
465
00:48:24,101 --> 00:48:26,228
and they still continue to do so.
466
00:48:27,938 --> 00:48:31,374
Other smaller ones
were probably carried here by birds,
467
00:48:31,541 --> 00:48:34,271
either on their feet or in their stomachs.
468
00:48:46,290 --> 00:48:51,159
But the ash is still here
beneath the lattice of roots of the jungle trees.
469
00:48:56,033 --> 00:49:01,266
Somehow or other, rats and lizards and pythons
have all reached here.
470
00:49:01,772 --> 00:49:04,866
There are now many hundreds
of different species of plants,
471
00:49:05,042 --> 00:49:09,604
and the winds have assisted the passage
of many flying insects,
472
00:49:09,780 --> 00:49:13,739
whose descendants now form
large and permanent populations,
473
00:49:13,917 --> 00:49:17,250
pollinating the flowers,
feeding on their fruits,
474
00:49:17,421 --> 00:49:21,915
collecting their rotting leaves
and indeed feeding on one another.
475
00:49:40,911 --> 00:49:44,506
As yet there are no larger mammals,
no monkeys or squirrels,
476
00:49:44,681 --> 00:49:49,243
no hunting cats or mongoose,
as there are in Java or Sumatra.
477
00:49:49,720 --> 00:49:51,984
But as far as smaller creatures are concerned,
478
00:49:52,155 --> 00:49:55,215
the number of species is increasing all the time.
479
00:50:08,472 --> 00:50:11,805
And on the flanks of volcanoes
all round the world,
480
00:50:11,975 --> 00:50:14,808
men clear fields and plant crops,
481
00:50:14,978 --> 00:50:18,436
even though they know
they may be sitting on a time bomb.
482
00:50:25,322 --> 00:50:29,258
These rice fields lie on the flanks
of one of Krakatau's near neighbours,
483
00:50:29,426 --> 00:50:31,326
Gunung Agung in Bali.
484
00:50:31,728 --> 00:50:33,923
Only 20 years ago it erupted,
485
00:50:34,097 --> 00:50:38,864
killing 2,000 people
and leaving 150,000 homeless.
486
00:50:39,503 --> 00:50:42,836
But the Balinese will not leave fields
that are so fertile
487
00:50:43,006 --> 00:50:47,705
they can produce two or three rich harvests
of rice every year.
488
00:50:49,579 --> 00:50:54,642
Gunung Agung, Krakatau
and the rest of the violently explosive volcanoes
489
00:50:54,818 --> 00:50:59,915
that run in a chain along Sumatra
and Java and the Indonesian islands
490
00:51:00,090 --> 00:51:02,923
stand on the line of the crack in the earth's crus
491
00:51:03,093 --> 00:51:06,119
where the basalt plate
forming the floor of the Indian Ocean
492
00:51:06,296 --> 00:51:09,925
meets the partly submerged edge
of the continent of Asia.
493
00:51:10,300 --> 00:51:13,861
This junction already existed 35 million years ago
494
00:51:14,037 --> 00:51:17,905
when India was an isolated island
in the middle of that ocean.
495
00:51:18,208 --> 00:51:21,905
Since then, as the ocean floor
has continued to spread,
496
00:51:22,179 --> 00:51:26,013
the continents have shifted
and India has moved towards Asia.
497
00:51:26,283 --> 00:51:28,217
As the two continents approached,
498
00:51:28,385 --> 00:51:33,015
the sediments between them crumpled
and eventually piled up over the junction,
499
00:51:33,190 --> 00:51:37,217
so instead of the line between them
being marked by volcanoes,
500
00:51:37,394 --> 00:51:42,593
it's buried deep beneath
an immense range of mountains, the Himalaya.
501
00:51:45,268 --> 00:51:51,207
So these great peaks of sandstone
and limestone rising five miles into the sky
502
00:51:51,374 --> 00:51:55,834
are not only the highest mountains in the world,
but among the youngest.
503
00:51:56,146 --> 00:51:59,411
And the process has not yet come to an end.
504
00:51:59,883 --> 00:52:04,047
India is still moving north
at the rate of two inches a year,
505
00:52:04,221 --> 00:52:09,420
compacting itself ever more tightly
against the continental mass of Asia,
506
00:52:09,593 --> 00:52:14,724
and the Himalaya are, infinitesimally,
getting higher and higher.
507
00:52:15,999 --> 00:52:19,526
And that is how this ammonite,
this sea-living creature,
508
00:52:19,703 --> 00:52:24,072
came to rest over two miles high in the Himalaya.
509
00:52:24,307 --> 00:52:28,004
That too is the explanation
of how the Kali Gandaki river
510
00:52:28,178 --> 00:52:33,411
managed to cut its way clean through
the highest range of mountains in the world.
511
00:52:34,351 --> 00:52:37,752
It was flowing south
from the ancient plateau of Tibet
512
00:52:37,921 --> 00:52:42,085
even before the great mass of India
collided with Asia.
513
00:52:42,559 --> 00:52:48,225
As the sediments between the two land masses
buckled and rose over millions of years,
514
00:52:48,398 --> 00:52:50,696
the river maintained its course,
515
00:52:50,867 --> 00:52:54,633
cutting down through the rocks
as swiftly as they rose.
516
00:52:55,338 --> 00:52:58,796
And so now it still flows south
to the plains of India,
517
00:52:58,975 --> 00:53:03,105
and does so
through the deepest gorge in the world.
518
00:53:04,915 --> 00:53:09,352
Mountain ranges have been created
in this way several times.
519
00:53:09,519 --> 00:53:11,919
The Himalaya are just the most recent.
520
00:53:12,222 --> 00:53:15,749
As they are worn down,
they create different environments
521
00:53:15,926 --> 00:53:17,951
in which animals and plants can live.
522
00:53:18,261 --> 00:53:23,324
So we have begun our portrait
of the planet up on the roof of the world,
523
00:53:23,500 --> 00:53:29,370
and we will go from high altitudes to low,
from the poles to the equator.
524
00:53:29,673 --> 00:53:32,801
And in the next programme we'll go even higher,
525
00:53:32,976 --> 00:53:37,970
to the most inhospitable environment of all,
the world of snow and ice.
526
00:53:38,020 --> 00:53:42,570
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