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The rockies,
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One of the world's greatest mountain ranges.
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Stretching for 3,000 miles,
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They are the spine of north america.
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Survival in this untamed wilderness
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Requires something exceptional,
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But for those that conquer this world,
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The prize is freedom.
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They are the mountains where seasons can change
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In mere hours.
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In this high land of extremes,
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Timing is everything.
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Some seize their moment in the winter,
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Tackling it head-on.
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Others make their stand in the roaring heat of summer.
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In the rockies,
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The one constant is change,
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And survival is never certain.
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Across the planet,the struggle to survive continues
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In great mountain ranges
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That touch the skies...
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Hostile,unforgiving worlds
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That push life to its limits,
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Where a few extraordinary animals
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And remarkable people dare to live
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In the highest places on earth.
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The rockies run the length of north america.
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They rise up in the southwest and travel north
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Through colorado,wyoming,idaho,montana,
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Then up into canada,all the way
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To the frozen edge of the yukon.
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Laid horizontally,they would stretch
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From new york to california.
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So many mountains that some don't even have names.
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This is a world where,even today,
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There are unexplored stretches of wilderness.
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Elk herds roam the peaks,
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Grizzlies raise their young...
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And bison run free.
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This is the last great sanctuary
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Of the iconic animals of north america.
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It's winter,only ten degrees.
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The days are getting short.
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The perfect time for an extraordinary event
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To shake the rockies.
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Wyoming.
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This is bighorn sheep territory,
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Normally calm and tranquil.
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But today,a scent is in the air...
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And it's turning the males into warriors.
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It's the most important moment in their year.
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In fact,all the males are picking up the scent...
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Drawing it up into the roof of their mouths...
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Analyzing the smell.
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The females produce this perfume only
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When they're in heat,
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And that's just for two days;
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Not a chance any self-respecting,
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Red-blooded ram wants to miss...
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But to get to mate,
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They first have to fight the other males.
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It begins with pushing and shoving...
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But quickly goes below the belt...
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Goading each other,
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Seeing who's the strongest,
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Who's up for it.
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This is their one chance in the whole year to find a mate.
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They've got to take it.
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The horns alone can weigh 30 pounds...
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As much as the rest of their bones.
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It's the biggest rumble in the rockies.
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It echoes for miles around the mountains.
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Clashing horns...
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With 8 times the force
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That would fracture a human skull.
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Other creatures would get brain damage...
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But bighorns have a double layer of bone in their skulls
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To absorb the impact.
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Thick tendons join the skull to the spine
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To help recoil and prevent whiplash.
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The losers are left with a sore head.
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They'll have to wait a whole year
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For another chance to mate.
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The victors get the females.
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They have seized their chance and won,
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And choosing that perfect moment is the secret
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To success everywhere in the rocky mountains.
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And that's for one simple reason:
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The weather changes quicker here than in any
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Of the other great mountain ranges.
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The greatest daily temperature swing in the world
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Was recorded in the rockies,
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A 100-degree change in just 24 hours.
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But the seasonal swing is even bigger.
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The summers are scorching and dry.
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Every year,700,000 acres go up in.
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Temperatures can soar up to 110 degrees.
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In the winter,the avalanches rip down
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At 80 miles per hour.
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There's 100,000 every year.
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Temperatures can plummet to minus 40,
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Cold enough to freeze the mercury in a thermometer.
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Each day brings different extremes
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And challenges in these ever-changing rockies.
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By mid-winter,the world is frozen solid.
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Water vapor crystallized by the frozen air
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Forms diamond dust.
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At this time of year,
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There are 16 hours of night.
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This darkness becomes a stage
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For an incredible spectacle.
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As particles from the sun hit the earth's atmosphere,
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The northern lights illuminate the rockies.
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But this quiet beauty is deceptive.
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The weather can be brutal.
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Freezing winds can reach 200 miles per hour.
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It can snow 6 feet in a day.
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For most,it is a time of hardship and suffering.
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But here in the far north of the canadian rockies,
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It's the perfect moment for one animal
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That has mastered winter survival...
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The wolverine.
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Most people spend a lifetime here
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And never even glimpse one.
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He feeds on the frozen carcasses
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Of animals killed by winter...
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And preserved in nature's freezer.
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His nose can detect food buried 20 feet deep.
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Other animals follow his trail,
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Hoping they can steal a meal.
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But frozen carcasses are few and far between.
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Each day,he must scour the mountains for any scraps.
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His determination pays off.
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Frozen carcasses are as hard as iron,
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But his specially adapted teeth easily tear them open.
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But the ravens sound the dinner bell...
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And it summons the mountains' top predator.
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The wolverine has to act fast.
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A hungry wolf pack could kill him.
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Meal in hand,he discreetly makes his exit.
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It doesn't take long for wolves to devour a carcass.
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Now,with the scavengers occupied,
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The wolverine is free to seize another moment,
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Find another meal,undisturbed.
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His persistence is the secret to surviving
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These seemingly impossible rocky mountain winters.
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Seizing opportunities is crucial
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For all creatures that live in the rockies,
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And that is especially true of one unique animal...
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Us.
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The mountains call to us,
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But we are not built to live above the clouds.
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We,most of all,
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Must gauge the conditions perfectly.
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For those with both the courage and the judgment,
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The prize is the freedom of these mountains.
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Despite the dangers,for some people
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The draw of the rockies is so strong,
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They need to go further and higher.
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Woman: i mean,all mountains have a moodiness
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To them,have a personality,but the rockies,
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Rockies might take the cake.
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Hilaree o'neill is a professional mountaineer
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And skier.
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She's climbed everest
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And led expeditions to mountains around the world
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For 15 years.
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But colorado in the southern rockies is her home.
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Hilaree: it's not for the beginner.
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They're steep mountains,they're rugged.
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It keeps you on your toes.
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I think i could spend ten lifetimes here
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And probably not do everything i would like to do
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In these mountains.
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There is one mountain in particular she wants
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To climb,and now,late winter,
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Is the perfect moment to do it.
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In the heart of the san juan range,
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Mount sneffels is the highest peak for miles.
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At just 20 million years old,
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It's one of the youngest mountains
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In the rockies and still growing fast.
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At over 14,000 feet high,
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The air's 40% thinner at the summit,
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And the winds can blow over 100 miles per hour...
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But hilaree is determined to attempt it.
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Hilaree: i mean,there's,you know,
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Lots of catchphrases about the rocky mountains,
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And the one that always kind of sticks in my head is,
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You know,if you don't like the weather,
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Wait 5 minutes and it'll change.
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For me,it makes me want to go out in the mountains
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Every day because i think it's going to be different every day.
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And sometimes,sometimes i think the mountains around here are
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Warm and welcoming,and other times you're like,"god,
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"i just hope they let me go and let me out of their grasp
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And i can go home."
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It's a 3,000-foot climb to the summit,
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With the air getting thinner and the snow getting deeper.
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Hilaree: i often feel frightened when i'm up here.
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I think it's a good thing to feel fear
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Because that means you're pushing yourself a little bit
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And that makes you feel alive and...
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Yeah,i would take that any day.
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There's no time to rest at the summit.
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The descent is even more challenging.
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First,she has to rappel down to the start of the gully.
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Every minute,the wind is picking up.
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And for hilaree,there is only one way down.
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This steep gully is called the snake,
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And in these conditions,it is particularly treacherous.
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Gullies like this are prone to avalanches,
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And hilaree's descent is making the snow
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Increasingly unstable.
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One wrong move,
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And it would all be over.
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Hilaree: oh,boy.
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But there is no turning back now.
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She is finally free from the clutches of the gully.
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Hilaree: whoo!
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Hilaree flies at 50 miles per hour
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Down the mountain,
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Her intimate knowledge of the rockies keeping her safe.
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Hilaree: whoo!
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When i go and do something new in these mountains,
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It feels pioneering in a modern way,
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And i think that is a lot of the spirit
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Of the people that still live around these mountains.
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The rockies have always attracted pioneers.
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Thousands flocked here in the 1800s.
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Some made fortunes;
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For others,their timing was wrong.
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Mining towns abandoned after the gold and silver ran out.
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Half a million mines are scattered across the west.
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Early march,
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And the last snow of winter falls
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On an abandoned homestead in montana...
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The buildings reclaimed by nature.
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These mule deer have been forced down
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From the mountain slope to shelter here.
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It's the last place left with any grass to eat.
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But they're nervous,
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And rightly so.
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Something here is very wrong.
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The abandoned barns are littered
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With corpses of other deer.
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A predator is close by...
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One who keeps coming back.
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But the mule deer face a terrible choice.
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If they go back to the mountaintops,
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They'll starve.
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If they stay here,
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They may be eaten.
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During the daylight,they're safe.
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But as night falls...
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The ranch becomes the realm of a phantom killer.
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Under the cloak of darkness,
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Catching sight of this silent predator
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Is almost impossible.
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In some native american myths,
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This is a creature of the underworld...
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A harbinger of death.
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The mountain lion.
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So strong,she can drag a kill
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Several times her own body weight
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In her jaws.
281
00:21:08,400 --> 00:21:11,466
She uses these buildings to hide her kills
282
00:21:11,566 --> 00:21:14,466
From the prying eyes of other animals,
283
00:21:14,566 --> 00:21:18,433
So she can feed unnoticed,undisturbed.
284
00:21:20,300 --> 00:21:23,700
For such a powerful animal,she is surprisingly silent
285
00:21:23,800 --> 00:21:25,700
And light on her feet.
286
00:21:25,800 --> 00:21:29,200
Huge paws and a long tail for balance
287
00:21:29,300 --> 00:21:33,700
Make her the best ambush predator in the rockies.
288
00:21:33,800 --> 00:21:37,300
This deer is enough food to last for a week.
289
00:21:37,400 --> 00:21:40,366
She'll return night after night
290
00:21:40,466 --> 00:21:43,400
To feed in peace.
291
00:21:43,500 --> 00:21:47,666
In silence,she slips into the dark.
292
00:21:51,433 --> 00:21:54,333
The rest of the herd is safe,
293
00:21:54,433 --> 00:21:57,600
Until the next night.
295
00:22:10,333 --> 00:22:13,233
It's the end of march.
296
00:22:13,333 --> 00:22:15,233
Across the rockies,
297
00:22:15,333 --> 00:22:17,233
Billions of tons of water
298
00:22:17,333 --> 00:22:21,233
Has been locked up all winter as snow and ice,
299
00:22:21,333 --> 00:22:23,733
In huge glaciers,
300
00:22:23,833 --> 00:22:26,500
In frozen lakes.
301
00:22:30,066 --> 00:22:33,466
But today,for the first time this year,
302
00:22:33,566 --> 00:22:37,733
The sun is in the sky for more than 12 hours...
303
00:22:39,566 --> 00:22:43,866
And at last,spring has arrived.
304
00:22:50,633 --> 00:22:53,500
The mountains are waking up,
305
00:22:53,600 --> 00:22:56,666
And the water begins to flow.
306
00:22:58,000 --> 00:23:02,466
3,000 waterfalls appear across the rockies.
307
00:23:02,566 --> 00:23:05,966
Hundreds of billions of gallons
308
00:23:06,066 --> 00:23:09,233
Flow down from the mountains.
309
00:23:15,300 --> 00:23:18,700
A thousand frozen lakes are unlocked
310
00:23:18,800 --> 00:23:21,466
And filled with meltwater.
312
00:23:25,000 --> 00:23:28,900
The rockies nourish 900 million acres
313
00:23:29,000 --> 00:23:31,400
Across north america.
314
00:23:31,500 --> 00:23:33,900
As the mountains burst into bloom,
315
00:23:34,000 --> 00:23:37,900
There are opportunities for those who can seize them.
317
00:23:40,000 --> 00:23:43,033
And with this glut of food
318
00:23:43,133 --> 00:23:46,300
Comes new beginnings.
319
00:23:50,566 --> 00:23:54,633
What was a desolate landscape just a few short weeks ago
320
00:23:54,733 --> 00:23:58,300
Is now crowded with life.
321
00:24:01,766 --> 00:24:05,833
But all the animals are multiplying in number.
323
00:24:08,666 --> 00:24:13,066
The predator populations are also booming.
324
00:24:13,166 --> 00:24:15,066
Coyote,
325
00:24:15,166 --> 00:24:17,333
Black bear.
326
00:24:18,433 --> 00:24:21,100
Everyone's hungry.
327
00:24:27,466 --> 00:24:31,366
Everyone is looking to restock and replenish
328
00:24:31,466 --> 00:24:34,133
After the barren winter.
330
00:24:43,366 --> 00:24:45,766
In the mountain meadows of wyoming,
331
00:24:45,866 --> 00:24:49,533
An elk calf has just been born.
332
00:24:51,866 --> 00:24:54,766
The timing of her birth was impeccable:
333
00:24:54,866 --> 00:24:57,933
Any earlier,the frosts would have killed her;
334
00:24:58,033 --> 00:25:02,500
Any later,she would miss the spring grass.
335
00:25:02,600 --> 00:25:05,233
But it's also the most dangerous time,
336
00:25:05,333 --> 00:25:09,133
When hungry predators are all around.
337
00:25:09,233 --> 00:25:11,133
As a newborn,
338
00:25:11,233 --> 00:25:14,800
Her legs are too weak to hold her weight.
339
00:25:14,900 --> 00:25:17,866
The calf can't run to save herself.
340
00:25:23,900 --> 00:25:27,600
With predators always a threat,
341
00:25:27,700 --> 00:25:31,366
The calf has to hide.
343
00:25:35,300 --> 00:25:37,200
Her mother has a strong scent,
344
00:25:37,300 --> 00:25:39,633
A beacon to predators.
345
00:25:41,466 --> 00:25:45,566
As night falls,the only way to protect her baby
346
00:25:45,666 --> 00:25:47,833
Is to leave her.
347
00:26:08,800 --> 00:26:13,966
The first night of her life might be her last.
349
00:26:29,066 --> 00:26:30,900
Wolves,
350
00:26:31,000 --> 00:26:32,966
Coyote,
351
00:26:33,066 --> 00:26:34,633
Even cougars.
352
00:26:34,733 --> 00:26:38,133
On that first night,the sounds of hunting
353
00:26:38,233 --> 00:26:40,133
Are all around her.
354
00:26:40,233 --> 00:26:45,400
Instinctively,she knows to stay perfectly still.
357
00:27:02,033 --> 00:27:05,200
Dawn is a long time coming...
358
00:27:07,533 --> 00:27:10,766
But the first daylight tells the tale.
359
00:27:10,866 --> 00:27:14,766
The calf has survived the night.
360
00:27:14,866 --> 00:27:17,766
But morning doesn't guarantee safety.
361
00:27:17,866 --> 00:27:20,766
There is a threat that stalks these calves,
362
00:27:20,866 --> 00:27:23,366
Even by daylight.
363
00:27:23,466 --> 00:27:27,366
During the spring,1/3 of all newborn calves
364
00:27:27,466 --> 00:27:30,333
Are killed by one unique predator.
365
00:27:43,666 --> 00:27:47,066
This grizzly bear has just come out of hibernation
366
00:27:47,166 --> 00:27:49,700
And is desperate to eat.
367
00:27:52,033 --> 00:27:55,933
The grizzly's sense of smell is 2,000 times better
368
00:27:56,033 --> 00:27:58,200
Than a human.
369
00:27:59,533 --> 00:28:04,000
But this calf has a trick to avoid being sniffed out.
370
00:28:04,100 --> 00:28:08,100
Cleaned by her mother,she has almost no scent,
371
00:28:08,200 --> 00:28:11,533
So the bear's nose is no use.
372
00:28:14,900 --> 00:28:19,333
But grizzlies are smart and have other tactics.
373
00:28:19,433 --> 00:28:22,833
She knows,just at this time of year,
374
00:28:22,933 --> 00:28:26,100
Newborns are hidden in the scrub.
375
00:28:32,666 --> 00:28:36,066
She methodically combs through the meadow.
376
00:28:36,166 --> 00:28:39,333
A panicked newborn may try to run.
377
00:28:45,433 --> 00:28:49,533
The baby must stay absolutely still.
379
00:29:13,333 --> 00:29:15,733
The bear ambles away,
380
00:29:15,833 --> 00:29:20,000
Unaware of the meal that was under her nose.
381
00:29:26,333 --> 00:29:30,000
The mother returns to her calf.
382
00:29:33,666 --> 00:29:36,066
Even after only one day,
383
00:29:36,166 --> 00:29:38,833
Her legs are growing stronger.
384
00:29:43,166 --> 00:29:46,066
Her mother leads her back towards the mountains
385
00:29:46,166 --> 00:29:48,833
And the safety of the herd.
386
00:29:53,666 --> 00:29:58,066
In the rockies,sometimes the bravest animals
387
00:29:58,166 --> 00:30:01,466
Come in the smallest sizes.
389
00:30:08,566 --> 00:30:11,200
It's late spring...
391
00:30:13,133 --> 00:30:16,200
And the sun heats the mountain rocks...
392
00:30:19,033 --> 00:30:22,933
Which warms the surrounding air,making winds
393
00:30:23,033 --> 00:30:26,200
Which are forced up the valley sides.
394
00:30:32,000 --> 00:30:35,133
It's the perfect place to be...
395
00:30:35,233 --> 00:30:37,400
A bird.
396
00:30:44,733 --> 00:30:47,400
I dreamed about flying when i was a kid.
397
00:30:48,733 --> 00:30:51,633
I've always had a fascination and a curiosity
398
00:30:51,733 --> 00:30:54,900
With the freedom that birds have.
399
00:31:04,200 --> 00:31:06,600
Jeff shapiro lives in the heart
400
00:31:06,700 --> 00:31:09,033
Of the montana rockies.
401
00:31:11,366 --> 00:31:14,266
These cliffs of the bitterroot mountains
402
00:31:14,366 --> 00:31:18,066
Are just a short ride away from his home,
403
00:31:18,166 --> 00:31:20,066
His family,
404
00:31:20,166 --> 00:31:22,066
And his falcon.
405
00:31:22,166 --> 00:31:25,566
Jeff: so this is my hunting partner,sirius.
406
00:31:25,666 --> 00:31:29,066
He's a half gyr,half peregrine tiercel.
407
00:31:29,166 --> 00:31:31,233
He's a little over a year old.
408
00:31:31,333 --> 00:31:33,066
He's also part of the family.
409
00:31:33,166 --> 00:31:35,066
He's become quite tame
410
00:31:35,166 --> 00:31:37,566
And doesn't mind the dogs or the cats
411
00:31:37,666 --> 00:31:39,566
And certainly likes to sit in the house
412
00:31:39,666 --> 00:31:42,733
And watch the world go by,and when we fly,
413
00:31:42,833 --> 00:31:46,133
He commands the sky for hours at a time.
414
00:31:46,233 --> 00:31:48,633
I still watch him fly
415
00:31:48,733 --> 00:31:51,166
A little bit sort of almost half proud parent,
416
00:31:51,266 --> 00:31:53,433
Half envy.
417
00:31:57,266 --> 00:32:00,733
Every other day in the spring and summer,
418
00:32:00,833 --> 00:32:04,033
He climbs into the mountains.
419
00:32:04,133 --> 00:32:07,033
Jeff: i've always wanted to be in places that were bigger
420
00:32:07,133 --> 00:32:11,733
Than me,to show me how insignificant i am.
421
00:32:13,000 --> 00:32:14,900
You could spend a lifetime in the rockies
422
00:32:15,000 --> 00:32:17,400
And not see another person.
423
00:32:17,500 --> 00:32:21,400
They just go on for miles and miles and miles,
424
00:32:21,500 --> 00:32:25,666
And that gives me a feeling like there's still adventure.
425
00:32:27,500 --> 00:32:31,400
The conditions have to be just perfect.
426
00:32:31,500 --> 00:32:34,400
Jeff: i try and pay attention to what the birds are doing.
428
00:32:38,833 --> 00:32:41,800
I try and pay attention to how the leaves
429
00:32:41,900 --> 00:32:43,300
On the trees are moving.
430
00:32:43,400 --> 00:32:47,100
It all gives me information that will help me stay safe.
431
00:32:52,966 --> 00:32:56,000
One of the most important factors is timing.
432
00:32:58,833 --> 00:33:01,466
The moment you choose is the most important moment
433
00:33:01,566 --> 00:33:05,466
Of your life because i've committed.
434
00:33:05,566 --> 00:33:10,733
The valley floor is 3,000 feet below.
436
00:33:23,933 --> 00:33:28,833
Jeff: 3...2...1.
437
00:33:28,933 --> 00:33:30,300
See ya.
438
00:34:06,466 --> 00:34:08,866
The first time i stepped off the ground
439
00:34:08,966 --> 00:34:12,866
And escaped from gravity...
440
00:34:12,966 --> 00:34:15,200
That sense of speed,
441
00:34:15,300 --> 00:34:17,200
And you're connected to the mountain,
442
00:34:17,300 --> 00:34:19,200
You're connected to the terrain.
443
00:34:19,300 --> 00:34:22,966
I guess it could be described as,like,pure joy.
446
00:34:49,300 --> 00:34:52,366
Harsh summer has arrived,
447
00:34:52,466 --> 00:34:55,133
And the mountains are now bare.
448
00:34:56,133 --> 00:34:59,366
Throughout the rockies,the melting snow
449
00:34:59,466 --> 00:35:03,400
Has created temporary ponds in the mountain meadows.
450
00:35:04,666 --> 00:35:07,066
They are full of life.
451
00:35:07,166 --> 00:35:09,566
But in the heat of the summer sun,
452
00:35:09,666 --> 00:35:12,333
They won't last long.
453
00:35:14,366 --> 00:35:16,766
In ponds like this,
454
00:35:16,866 --> 00:35:20,033
Young salamanders are growing.
455
00:35:21,366 --> 00:35:23,266
Just 3 inches long,
456
00:35:23,366 --> 00:35:26,300
They're the biggest beasts in a tiny kingdom
457
00:35:26,400 --> 00:35:29,566
Which will soon dry up and disappear.
458
00:35:30,900 --> 00:35:34,300
The manes around their heads are gills,
459
00:35:34,400 --> 00:35:39,066
The feathery fronds soaking up the oxygen from the water.
460
00:35:41,633 --> 00:35:46,533
Their small mouths are just big enough to swallow their lunch,
461
00:35:46,633 --> 00:35:49,533
But with microscopic teeth,
462
00:35:49,633 --> 00:35:52,266
Eating is a slow process.
463
00:35:55,800 --> 00:35:58,566
At first,all is well.
464
00:35:59,900 --> 00:36:03,900
The days are long,the weather warm,
465
00:36:04,000 --> 00:36:07,400
But moments like this are fleeting in the rockies.
466
00:36:07,500 --> 00:36:11,566
As the summer heats up,the water in the pond goes down.
467
00:36:12,900 --> 00:36:14,800
The salamanders start getting
468
00:36:14,900 --> 00:36:18,066
Just a little too close for comfort.
469
00:36:20,900 --> 00:36:23,800
As the pond dries up,
470
00:36:23,900 --> 00:36:27,533
So does the salamanders' food supply...
472
00:36:33,733 --> 00:36:37,900
And that changes everything.
473
00:36:52,700 --> 00:36:56,366
This is the biggest salamander in the pond.
474
00:36:57,800 --> 00:37:02,266
He's transforming into something more...
475
00:37:02,366 --> 00:37:03,866
Menacing.
476
00:37:03,966 --> 00:37:07,866
His mouth has grown wider.
477
00:37:07,966 --> 00:37:12,866
He has grown hundreds of new,long,needle-sharp teeth
478
00:37:12,966 --> 00:37:17,233
To stop his victims from wriggling away.
479
00:37:21,300 --> 00:37:26,266
The other salamanders may be his brothers and sisters,
480
00:37:26,366 --> 00:37:30,533
But they are starting to look quite tasty.
481
00:37:32,500 --> 00:37:37,266
He has transformed into a cannibal.
482
00:37:38,600 --> 00:37:42,266
He's having his family for dinner.
484
00:37:50,133 --> 00:37:54,500
The mountain sunshine causes the ponds to shrink more.
485
00:37:55,833 --> 00:38:00,000
There's no escape from big brother.
486
00:38:01,800 --> 00:38:03,700
But the fight's not over.
487
00:38:03,800 --> 00:38:09,000
The other salamanders also start to turn into cannibals.
488
00:38:15,400 --> 00:38:18,966
It's eat or be eaten.
489
00:38:23,800 --> 00:38:27,200
Eventually,in this pond,
490
00:38:27,300 --> 00:38:29,666
There is just a single,
491
00:38:29,766 --> 00:38:33,166
Very plump salamander.
492
00:38:33,266 --> 00:38:38,433
Everyone else has mysteriously...disappeared.
493
00:38:39,700 --> 00:38:42,666
But it's an empty victory.
494
00:38:42,766 --> 00:38:46,933
The mountain sun is turning the pond into a puddle.
495
00:38:48,266 --> 00:38:51,233
Eventually it will dry out completely,
496
00:38:51,333 --> 00:38:54,733
And he too would die,
497
00:38:54,833 --> 00:38:58,066
Except he has another,even greater trick
498
00:38:58,166 --> 00:38:59,566
Up his sleeve.
499
00:38:59,666 --> 00:39:02,133
Those gills have disappeared.
500
00:39:02,233 --> 00:39:05,133
They have been reabsorbed into his body.
501
00:39:05,233 --> 00:39:08,400
He has grown a pair of lungs.
502
00:39:11,233 --> 00:39:15,133
As the mountain sun dries up the very last of the puddle...
503
00:39:15,233 --> 00:39:18,266
This magician steps out
504
00:39:18,366 --> 00:39:22,766
And fills his new lungs with the warm mountain air...
505
00:39:22,866 --> 00:39:27,033
The ultimate transformer.
506
00:39:31,966 --> 00:39:34,366
Midsummer.
507
00:39:34,466 --> 00:39:38,033
But even now,autumn is around the corner...
508
00:39:39,800 --> 00:39:44,800
And the clock is ticking to make the most of nature's gold rush.
509
00:39:46,200 --> 00:39:49,733
Everyone has to seize the moment...
510
00:39:51,566 --> 00:39:55,733
And no one is better at it than this creature...
511
00:39:57,666 --> 00:40:00,833
A rufous hummingbird.
512
00:40:02,066 --> 00:40:03,966
They weigh less than a penny,
513
00:40:04,066 --> 00:40:06,966
And with a pulse rate of a thousand beats per minute,
514
00:40:07,066 --> 00:40:09,833
No heart beats faster.
515
00:40:15,800 --> 00:40:19,366
In summer,they live at the northernmost part of
516
00:40:19,466 --> 00:40:22,033
The rockies,using the long days
517
00:40:22,133 --> 00:40:24,533
To raise their family.
518
00:40:24,633 --> 00:40:28,766
These tiny newborns are the size of a sugar cube,
519
00:40:28,866 --> 00:40:34,033
In a nest so light,it's held together with spider silk.
520
00:40:39,033 --> 00:40:42,133
Their busy mother feeds them 60 times a day
521
00:40:42,233 --> 00:40:45,133
On a mix of regurgitated nectar
522
00:40:45,233 --> 00:40:47,133
And insects--
523
00:40:47,233 --> 00:40:50,466
Hummingbird rocket fuel.
524
00:40:55,000 --> 00:40:57,400
She can raise a whole family
525
00:40:57,500 --> 00:41:00,233
In just 18 days.
526
00:41:04,833 --> 00:41:08,000
Soon there's only one chick left...
527
00:41:09,333 --> 00:41:12,500
And she's reluctant to fly the nest.
528
00:41:14,800 --> 00:41:18,900
She's still getting used to the big,wide world,
529
00:41:19,000 --> 00:41:22,800
But the biggest moment of her life is about to start.
530
00:41:24,133 --> 00:41:27,033
The flowers here are dying,
531
00:41:27,133 --> 00:41:31,300
And she must fly south in search of food.
532
00:41:38,966 --> 00:41:41,866
She flies 3,000 miles
533
00:41:41,966 --> 00:41:43,866
From the canadian north,
534
00:41:43,966 --> 00:41:45,866
Down the length of the rockies,
535
00:41:45,966 --> 00:41:48,633
And eventually to mexico.
536
00:41:52,966 --> 00:41:55,366
Less than a month old,
537
00:41:55,466 --> 00:41:58,233
Totally on her own...
538
00:41:59,400 --> 00:42:01,366
She must race down the rockies to catch
539
00:42:01,466 --> 00:42:03,666
The blossoming flowers,
540
00:42:03,766 --> 00:42:06,966
A journey that will take her 3 months.
541
00:42:08,300 --> 00:42:12,200
She crosses the border from canada to the u.s.
542
00:42:12,300 --> 00:42:15,200
And then flies over 5 states,
543
00:42:15,300 --> 00:42:19,200
Over mountain lakes,over great peaks...
544
00:42:19,300 --> 00:42:23,200
And down through huge mountain passes.
545
00:42:23,300 --> 00:42:26,200
She has a brain the size of a grain of rice,
546
00:42:26,300 --> 00:42:30,466
But somehow she knows exactly where to go.
547
00:42:34,733 --> 00:42:37,666
At the southern end of the rockies,
548
00:42:37,766 --> 00:42:41,666
The mountain meadows of colorado have a brief moment
549
00:42:41,766 --> 00:42:45,433
When every flower is full of nectar.
551
00:42:47,533 --> 00:42:50,433
It's hummingbird heaven,
552
00:42:50,533 --> 00:42:54,866
And she has arrived at the perfect time.
553
00:42:56,200 --> 00:42:58,933
Here,she has a pit stop to refuel,
554
00:42:59,033 --> 00:43:02,400
But not a moment to relax.
555
00:43:07,800 --> 00:43:10,866
She's off again,further south,
556
00:43:10,966 --> 00:43:13,866
Chasing the sun.
557
00:43:13,966 --> 00:43:17,366
The tiny hero of the rockies,
558
00:43:17,466 --> 00:43:21,133
With the most epic journey of all.
559
00:43:26,966 --> 00:43:30,133
Summer is all too brief in the rockies.
560
00:43:31,466 --> 00:43:35,633
Nearly as soon as it arrives,it disappears.
561
00:43:37,966 --> 00:43:40,866
The hot summer nights begin to lengthen,
562
00:43:40,966 --> 00:43:44,966
And all the stars put on a spectacular show.
563
00:43:47,300 --> 00:43:51,466
High above,the milky way drifts by.
565
00:43:56,600 --> 00:43:59,666
Down below,the people of the rockies
566
00:43:59,766 --> 00:44:04,100
Celebrate the end of summer in county fairs.
567
00:44:04,200 --> 00:44:07,100
The first frosts will soon be here.
568
00:44:07,200 --> 00:44:11,600
For most,this is a time to relax,
569
00:44:11,700 --> 00:44:14,233
But not for everybody.
570
00:44:27,966 --> 00:44:30,533
Oliver pakootas is about to face
571
00:44:30,633 --> 00:44:33,966
The toughest race in the rockies.
572
00:44:35,300 --> 00:44:38,200
Months of practice have led to this one moment
573
00:44:38,300 --> 00:44:40,566
In the heart of montana.
575
00:44:47,366 --> 00:44:49,333
The indian relay,
576
00:44:49,433 --> 00:44:52,266
A rocky mountain contest of bravery
577
00:44:52,366 --> 00:44:54,633
And split-second timing.
578
00:44:54,733 --> 00:44:58,633
Each rider must complete 3 laps of the track.
579
00:44:58,733 --> 00:45:02,366
At the end of each lap,they must jump from one horse
580
00:45:02,466 --> 00:45:05,000
To another,
581
00:45:05,100 --> 00:45:08,300
And it's all done bareback.
582
00:45:08,400 --> 00:45:10,466
It's a native american competition
583
00:45:10,566 --> 00:45:13,466
Dating back at least 200 years.
584
00:45:13,566 --> 00:45:16,466
Different tribes compete for the honors,
585
00:45:16,566 --> 00:45:20,133
And the winner is the first across the finish line.
586
00:45:21,666 --> 00:45:23,566
Man: keep him going,keep him going.
587
00:45:23,666 --> 00:45:25,566
Push him on and make him work.
588
00:45:25,666 --> 00:45:28,566
Give him the work.holy cow.
589
00:45:28,666 --> 00:45:31,333
Ha ha! That's pretty good,huh?
590
00:45:31,433 --> 00:45:33,933
Judging the perfect moment to jump bareback
591
00:45:34,033 --> 00:45:38,066
Onto the horse takes oliver months of training.
592
00:45:38,166 --> 00:45:41,533
There's a team of 4 involved,all family.
593
00:45:42,866 --> 00:45:46,000
Brother winfred holds the horses in the race.
594
00:45:46,100 --> 00:45:49,100
So does his father john.
595
00:45:49,200 --> 00:45:52,300
Father-in-law kerry is the trainer.
596
00:45:53,633 --> 00:45:56,133
Oliver is the jockey.
597
00:45:59,800 --> 00:46:02,266
Kerry: you always represent where you come from,
598
00:46:02,366 --> 00:46:04,766
And that's where grizzly mountain comes from.
599
00:46:04,866 --> 00:46:07,766
It's the biggest mountain on our reservation.
600
00:46:07,866 --> 00:46:11,266
So when i represent my home people,
601
00:46:11,366 --> 00:46:14,266
So when i go on the road,i let people know
602
00:46:14,366 --> 00:46:16,266
That this is where i come from.
603
00:46:16,366 --> 00:46:18,766
This is my mountain,this is our mountain,
604
00:46:18,866 --> 00:46:20,766
My family's mountain.
605
00:46:20,866 --> 00:46:22,766
In all the years since i've ever been a kid,
606
00:46:22,866 --> 00:46:25,766
We've always had horses,and they're like brothers
607
00:46:25,866 --> 00:46:27,900
And sisters to us.
608
00:46:28,000 --> 00:46:30,900
These horses need rigorous training,
609
00:46:31,000 --> 00:46:33,900
And that means getting deep into the mountains.
610
00:46:34,000 --> 00:46:36,400
Oliver: i like to take them in the mountains.
611
00:46:36,500 --> 00:46:38,400
And it's just you and the horse,you know,
612
00:46:38,500 --> 00:46:40,900
And you almost become one.
613
00:46:41,000 --> 00:46:43,066
And that's how it feels,too.
614
00:46:43,166 --> 00:46:46,333
It's like their legs become my legs.
615
00:46:48,666 --> 00:46:52,233
You know,a bird could fly up or a coyote could run by
616
00:46:52,333 --> 00:46:54,733
Or something,and then,once they get used to that,
617
00:46:54,833 --> 00:46:57,733
Then i know they're ready to go do some relay racing.
618
00:46:57,833 --> 00:47:00,733
And we develop a trust with each other out there
619
00:47:00,833 --> 00:47:04,566
With them that you can't get on a racetrack.
620
00:47:07,900 --> 00:47:10,800
The indian relay is the oldest sport
621
00:47:10,900 --> 00:47:13,800
In the rockies...
622
00:47:13,900 --> 00:47:18,800
And grew from the life of the native american tribes.
624
00:47:21,233 --> 00:47:23,400
Kerry: the horse was so important to us
625
00:47:23,500 --> 00:47:26,066
When they were out hunting and gathering,and even when you
626
00:47:26,166 --> 00:47:28,233
Went out to chase your buffalo,i'm sure you had
627
00:47:28,333 --> 00:47:30,933
To have a second horse or a third horse.
628
00:47:35,266 --> 00:47:37,833
The family has developed special ways
629
00:47:37,933 --> 00:47:40,066
To prepare their horses.
630
00:47:40,166 --> 00:47:43,066
Their local mountains have a salt lake
631
00:47:43,166 --> 00:47:46,066
That cools the horses' aching muscles
632
00:47:46,166 --> 00:47:48,333
And heals any cuts.
634
00:47:52,733 --> 00:47:56,133
Oliver burns mountain sage in a ceremony
635
00:47:56,233 --> 00:48:00,700
To protect horse and rider from injury.
636
00:48:02,033 --> 00:48:04,433
Oliver: you're putting a shield over your horses.
637
00:48:04,533 --> 00:48:07,800
I don't know how many people really believe in it,
638
00:48:07,900 --> 00:48:10,300
But i believe in it.
639
00:48:10,400 --> 00:48:12,800
That's how come we're here,is because our ancestors
640
00:48:12,900 --> 00:48:14,300
Did the same thing.
641
00:48:14,400 --> 00:48:20,300
The land of the free
642
00:48:20,400 --> 00:48:30,633
And the home of the brave
643
00:48:30,733 --> 00:48:35,033
It's the day of oliver's big race.
646
00:48:40,633 --> 00:48:43,366
In the shadow of the mountains,
647
00:48:43,466 --> 00:48:46,366
The evening starts with a wild rodeo.
649
00:49:08,733 --> 00:49:11,633
But everyone is waiting for the main event,
650
00:49:11,733 --> 00:49:13,633
The indian relay.
652
00:49:17,233 --> 00:49:19,633
Oliver: when i walk out onto the track,you almost
653
00:49:19,733 --> 00:49:23,133
I guess i'd call it getting into a warrior mode.
654
00:49:23,233 --> 00:49:26,766
Nothing else matters in the world.
656
00:49:32,433 --> 00:49:34,833
When you're bareback,horses can feel your heartbeat.
657
00:49:34,933 --> 00:49:37,833
So if i'm staying calm,you know,they know
658
00:49:37,933 --> 00:49:39,833
There ain't nothing to worry about.
660
00:49:43,933 --> 00:49:45,833
Oliver is primed.
661
00:49:45,933 --> 00:49:48,666
The other horse is ready.
662
00:49:48,766 --> 00:49:52,433
His moment has come.
664
00:50:05,933 --> 00:50:10,100
Oliver: you almost get this sense of invincibility.
665
00:50:13,433 --> 00:50:18,500
All that matters is that next 3 minutes...
667
00:50:21,366 --> 00:50:25,033
Almost like you're going to go into battle.
670
00:50:49,333 --> 00:50:52,166
Oliver is first across the finish line.
671
00:50:52,266 --> 00:50:54,666
A rocky mountain tradition passed down
672
00:50:54,766 --> 00:50:56,600
Through so many generations,
673
00:50:56,700 --> 00:50:59,600
All played out in just one moment
674
00:50:59,700 --> 00:51:02,666
And timed to perfection.
677
00:51:14,900 --> 00:51:19,066
Oliver is back in the land belonging to his tribe.
678
00:51:21,833 --> 00:51:24,733
There are only a few last moments
679
00:51:24,833 --> 00:51:27,233
To take his horse into the mountains
680
00:51:27,333 --> 00:51:31,666
Before the first flurries of snow begin to fall.
681
00:51:39,433 --> 00:51:43,066
Suddenly,as if with the flick of a switch,
682
00:51:43,166 --> 00:51:46,133
Autumn is here.
683
00:51:46,233 --> 00:51:48,633
The nights are drawing in,
684
00:51:48,733 --> 00:51:51,066
Cloaking the rockies
685
00:51:51,166 --> 00:51:54,833
In 14 long hours of darkness each day.
686
00:51:58,166 --> 00:52:02,900
From here on in,the temperature will drop daily.
687
00:52:06,233 --> 00:52:09,633
The water that gave way to so much life
688
00:52:09,733 --> 00:52:12,666
Will freeze again.
689
00:52:16,500 --> 00:52:19,800
As life gets harsher...
690
00:52:22,133 --> 00:52:25,833
The fight for survival gets tougher.
692
00:52:44,800 --> 00:52:50,166
But that will not stop those who call these mountains home.
693
00:52:50,266 --> 00:52:52,800
Those with the know-how
694
00:52:52,900 --> 00:52:57,166
Will seize their moment once again
695
00:52:57,266 --> 00:53:02,500
And thrive in these ever-changing rocky mountains.
696
00:53:09,566 --> 00:53:12,000
Next time,on kingdoms of the sky.
697
00:53:12,100 --> 00:53:14,433
Explore the earth's highest mountain range,
698
00:53:14,533 --> 00:53:17,066
One that soars thousands of feet above the ground,
699
00:53:17,166 --> 00:53:18,800
And stretches even wider,
700
00:53:19,866 --> 00:53:21,566
To discover a diverse tapestry
701
00:53:21,666 --> 00:53:24,233
Of lush landscapes within,
702
00:53:24,333 --> 00:53:25,633
And the rich cultures that have
703
00:53:25,733 --> 00:53:27,633
Called these peaks home for centuries.
704
00:53:29,666 --> 00:53:32,533
Come conquer the thin air of the himalaya,
705
00:53:34,366 --> 00:53:37,033
Next time,on kingdoms of the sky.48781
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