All language subtitles for Travel.Quest.With.Bill.Ball.S01E07.CONVERT.1080p.HDTV.H264-CBFM

This is my first time
on a two-humper.

It takes something really unusual
to shock and surprise me.

I'd seen so much
over the years of traveling,

but this is one of my wildest
adventures yet.

This 2-year-old's teaching me
how to ride a yak.

I'm in the most sparsely populated
sovereign state.

Its hero is the greatest conqueror
the world has ever known,

and yet it is now one of the safest
places to live and visit.

My quest is to connect with some
of the last true nomads on earth.

Join me this week as we explore
Mongolia - land of Genghis Khan.

Since I was young,

I had an intense desire
to discover the world around me.

That hasn't changed,
just the level of adventure.

Now, every journey has a purpose,

and each time I venture out

to explore new destinations
around the globe,

I am following my travel quest.

Mongolia is a large country,
about 604,000 square miles -

about the size of Alaska.

As big as it is, though,

it has a tiny population
with only 3 million people.

Mongolia is in
an almost impossible position,

squeezed between two of the world's
great powers, Russia and China.

For decades it was a political pawn
between these two nuclear states,

but it has recently found its footing

and has evolved into one of
the world's newest democracies

with free and open elections.

In many ways,
Mongolia is stuck in a time warp.

The countryside is dotted
with mobile homes, called gers,

that are basically wool
pulled over a wooden frame.

Cattle and sheep ranching
are the mainstay of the economy

and people
still live a nomadic lifestyle.

That doesn't mean
technology has been forsaken.

There are cars and ATVs

that help families
move from one pasture to another,

but horses are still an integral part

of the everyday life
of the rural family.

TV is not only found
in most of the gers,

but there are more TV channels
in Mongolia per capita

than virtually anywhere else
in the world.

This country is one contradiction
after another.

There is only one large city
in Mongolia,

the capital, Ulaanbaatar.

This is a modern metropolis
with an international airport,

tall buildings, traffic jams,
and movie theatres.

But even at the edges of town,
the rural life creeps in.

This has become a devotedly Buddhist
country since the end of communism.

In the Soviet era, where this
was another satellite of the USSR,

monks and religion were persecuted.

With the end of the Soviet Union,

Mongolia got to choose its own path
for the first time

since the reign of the Khans
ended in 1922.

Not far out of Ulaanbaatar is one
of the oldest Buddhist monasteries

in the country.

It has a fascinating backstory.

The Erdene monastery
has had a chequered history

and, unfortunately,
most of it is tragic.

Its beginnings go back
to a Tibetan Dalai Lama

who fled an open rebellion
against his rule.

He came to this valley and found it
secluded and relatively safe.

So here he began this monastery
back in the 9th century.

Still as isolated
as the day it was founded,

a handful of devotees maintain
the more recent temple additions.

It is here where I realised how
spread out this country really is.

There are occasionally
signs of people,

usually a single ger
situated in the open plains,

but no settlements
for miles and miles.

People can continue
to live as nomads

because there is no competition
for the land.

There's more than enough
to go around.

As we reached our ger camp -
some may call them yurts...

In fact, I did,

but in Mongolia,
the round felt-covered structure

with a portable wood-frame
used as a traveling dwelling

is called a ger,

and since we are in Mongolia,
a ger it is.

I was a bit apprehensive
about our accommodations,

but there was no need to worry.

They were waterproof fixtures
on permanent foundations,

and the toilet facilities,

though not located inside the ger,

were modern,

as were the showers.

Hot water, 24-hour electricity -

it was nowhere near as primitive
as I'd feared.

The next morning was beautiful.

The locals said
the weather in the summer

was nearly always perfect.

Very little rain -

though, when it does,
I was told it could be deadly -

and sunny.

Not too hot during the day
or too cold at night.

So far so good.

We had two programs for the day -

we would explore early Mongolian
petroglyphs in the morning

and visit a nearby family
in the afternoon.

The main attraction in this country
is learning how these nomadic people

live off the land.

Everything is a bit laid back.

The petroglyphs
were not hard to reach or to find.

They had a primitive style,
much like those I had seen in Africa.

It is a wonder
that we can still marvel

at what people left behind
thousands of years ago.

What of our world would still be
around for inquisitive minds to find

a thousand years from now?

After lunch, we were off to the
one thing I had looked forward to

since we arrived in Mongolia -

getting to see an actual ger.

Granted, we're rooming in one,

but they're not outfitted like
a house for a family to live in.

Cattle, sheep, goats and horses

are the only real form of wealth
in the rural areas.

Everything they eat and drink
is somehow connected to their herds.

That became alarmingly clear
as I entered their home.

It is traditional in many cultures
to offer guests a drink

and it is always bad manners
not to accept the hospitality.

The host explained that
I was going to be given a bowl

of the national drink,

that young and old enjoy
throughout the day.

I thought, "How bad could that be?"

I asked what it was.

Fermented mare's milk.

I've tried unusual food and drinks
all over the world,

but never fermented mare's milk.

It tasted a bit like sour yogurt,

not something I'd normally have
back home.

But when you are visiting a family
on the other side of the world,

you embrace their culture,

and that includes
anything they serve you.

It is slightly alcoholic,
the fermented part,

and it is from a mare,
a female horse.

Surprisingly,
this hasn't caught on in America.

The curds and cheeses,
a staple of Mongol diet,

were exceptionally flavourful.

Pretty much anything you can do
with milk - horse, cow or goat -

is a normal part of every meal.

In Mongolia,
the milking season for horses

runs between mid-June
and early October.

A mare produces
up to 350 gallons per year.

It was only 1:00 in the afternoon

when our hosts broke out
the homemade vodka.

You might call it moonshine.

So you'll understand if any of our
footage seems slightly out of focus.

Next up - drinking games.

This one is their version
of rock, paper and scissors.

(BOTH SING IN NATIVE LANGUAGE)

(LAUGHTER)

(SPEAKS IN NATIVE LANGUAGE)

Whoo!
(LAUGHTER)

The loser has to drink
an entire yak's horn

full of fermented mare's milk.

I'd already had my fill,
so I chose not to play.

(SPEAKS IN NATIVE LANGUAGE)

In the end, it was all about
making connections -

the host to us
and us as guests to them.

It is the interactions
between visitors and locals

that leave the special memories
that last a lifetime.

It was a great day learning a little
about the way the nomadic people

of Mongolia still work and play.

Much of it is unchanged.

They still live a rather simple life
by our standards,

with relatively few belongings,

yet they are happy.

It makes you wonder
what we really need.

The next day
was a complete mystery to me.

One of the things
they say that is best about travel

is being able to literally
stumble into a new festival or event

and taking part in it
like the locals.

In this case,
we've stumbled into the Felt Event.

Yeah, felting doesn't sound
real exciting to an American,

but here, almost everything
that the Mongolians use

is felted wool.

And so this is their opportunity
to show off their products,

race horses, sing and dance,

and we get to be part of it,
just like the locals.

This was the annual, at least for
the last five years, felt festival.

OK, I know what you're thinking.
I was too.

"A felt festival?
In the middle of nowhere?

"That could take a minute or two."

Boy, was I wrong.

Early on I caught a glimpse
of the contest categories

and one stood out - best foreigner.

I wasn't intrigued by that until
a French and Swiss group arrived.

Now it was all-out war
for America's honour.

When you're in an area
that sees few Americans,

everything you do or say
reflects on all Americans.

It isn't right to stereotype
or generalise, but that happens.

And in those cases,
you are an ambassador for the US

whether you like it or not.

The main event at the felt festival

was a demonstration on how felt,

the material on the outside
of the gers,

was made.

It is, of course, wool,
but processed in a very special way.

It is carefully laid out
and layered.

Guests were invited
to help with the process,

so I worked the wool
side-by-side with the locals.

When traveling, I always look for
opportunities to connect with people

whose lifestyles
are so different from my own.

Plus, I love working with my hands.

After the wool is evenly dispersed,
the layers are sprinkled with water.

This is a labour-intensive ritual

that has been practised
for hundreds of years.

Once the wool is laid out even
and thoroughly wetted,

it is rolled up and attached to a
horse that rolls it for a few hours,

completing the felting process.

It is now ready
for the walls of a ger

or to be made into a number
of clothing and household items.

Next, I was recruited
to be one of the judges

for the costume contest.

Locals come dressed in their best
traditional clothes

and compete for the honour.

Three judges were selected -

one of the Swiss, one of the French,
and me.

The competition was on.

The most prized award of the day
was not so surprising - a horse race.

Horses are every bit as important
to Mongolians today

as they were a century ago,

when they conquered much of Asia
on horseback.

Today, the racers are all children,
both boys and girls,

and they are lighter and fearless.

The races are over 10 miles long,

so this is no Kentucky Derby
mile and a quarter sprint.

The winner of this event
is the big winner of the day.

Today's speedster was a girl
no older than 10.

The Swiss may have great cheese,
the French incredible wines,

but Americans, we've got style.

And when the regional mayor asked me
to hand out the horse racing award

while wearing his very own
dress jacket and hat,

I knew I was in good company.

The moment had finally arrived -
the best foreigner award.

It wasn't the Nobel Peace Prize,

but close to it,
at least by Mongolian standards.

I was honoured.

Both the Swiss and French competitors
were really nice guys

who also deserved it.

That is, of course,
if I wasn't there.

With the official events over,
the entertainment began.

A local musical group
played traditional music

that was enchanting.

(APPLAUSE)

What was most interesting to me
beyond the music

was the specialised singing.

This is very similar
to throat singing

in Northern Canada and Alaska,

a cultural connection that early
Asians brought to the new world

when they crossed the Bering Strait.

I had to learn the secrets
of throat singing,

so between acts,
I asked for a lesson.

(THROAT SINGS)

Now it was my turn.

(LAUGHS)

WOMAN: Almost. Almost.
Almost. Almost. Yeah.

It was back the way we came
with one extra stop - camel rides.

I had ridden my share
of one-humped, or dromedary, camels,

but I'd never had the opportunity
to ride a Bactrian camel,

nor had any of my friends.

So it's one last adventure
added to this extraordinary day.

Back at camp after the best day yet,

what I didn't know
was that the next day's surprise

would be shocking even to me.

Of course, milk and milk products

are a major source of food
in Mongolia.

That does not mean that meat
is missing from their diet.

In fact, meat is available
in some form at every meal.

It is the preparation of that meat
that was the focus of day three.

We were going to watch from start
to finish the preparation of mutton

for our dinner.

To be honest,
I was not overly excited.

Mutton, or meat
from a full-grown sheep is,

well, let's just say
it's an acquired taste.

It is a rich, slightly gamey cut,

which is why people prefer lamb.

In most of the world,

we simply go to the local market
to pick out our food,

but here, days away
from the closest settlement,

this is how these resourceful people
prepare their meals.

And they use everything.

Nothing is wasted.

Even the cooking process
is different.

A fire is built and flat stones
are placed on the burning wood.

A kettle
with a pressure cooker-like seal

is partially filled with water
and put on the fire.

As the stones are heated,

the meat is added bit by bit
to the cooker,

alternating
with the now red-hot stones.

This, I was told, will tenderise

and break down the strong flavour
of the mutton.

Now, it is a waiting game,

so time to try our hand at the core
of Mongolian culture,

horseback riding.

Mongolian horses
are unusually small

but likewise
unusually strong equines.

They have to be, since they face
horrible winters,

long nomadic treks,

and they are often called upon
to carry heavy loads.

These are the horses
legends are made of.

My friends and I are ready
to take on these warrior ponies.

I'm taller than any Mongolian
who has ridden on this horse before,

that's for sure.

Few of my compadres would ride much.

In their defence, these are
spirited horses and hard to handle,

but our editor Kathy
really didn't want to get on a horse,

so I had to convince her just to sit
on it for a photo and then get off.

As she dismounted, the unthinkable -

the horse went nuts
and down went our cameraman,

who just happened to be
Kathy's husband, Dave.

He was OK.

The horse hit him with his body
and didn't kick him or hurt him.

Close call.

Kathy is always worried
that I would get Dave killed

following me
on one of my wild adventures,

and then this one near miss
comes from a horse she dismounted

that I convinced her to ride.

I'll never hear the end of this!

All this horse riding
made us hungry,

and luckily, our mutton stew
seemed like it was in good shape.

The last ingredients,
veggies and potatoes,

went into the cooker to share juices
and flavour the meat.

It was taking a long time
to get done though,

and the whole camp
was waiting patiently.

Would it be worth it?

Then came the moment of truth.

They put the potatoes with it too.
Let's see how that turned out.

Now, I'm not saying I'd spend
five hours preparing this meal,

but it is great.

Mongolia proved so far to be
as unpredictable and interesting

as any place I had ever been.

I was looking forward
to the next part of our journey.

It was now on to one of the big
reasons to visit Mongolia.

And I mean humongous.

This is the largest statue
of Genghis Khan in the world,

and one of the largest
equestrian statues on earth.

It is over 130-feet tall,

built in 2008 to honour
the great hero of Mongolian history.

He is the founder of the nation,

uniting the disparate tribes
into a fighting force

that created
the biggest contiguous empire

the world has ever seen.

The whole complex includes a museum

focusing on the great Khan period of
Genghis and his 35 ruler descendants.

In fact, the monument has one column
supporting it for each Khan.

The historic Genghis Khan
was born in 1162.

He died in 1227,

decreeing that his grave should be
unmarked and never revealed.

Its location is still
the greatest mystery of Mongolia.

Having come face-to-face
with the great Khan,

I was intrigued by his story.

And what better place to learn more
about him and his legacy

than to visit his capital.

Karakorum
was the centre of the world,

at least
the Mongolian Empire's world,

during the early Khans.

It evolved into a spiritual mecca

when Buddhism was adopted
as the official religion in 1585.

In fact, stones
from the ancient capital buildings

were used to build the monastery.

During the communist era,
which lasted from 1924 to 1992,

Mongolia was a vassal state
of the Soviet Union

and all religion was banned.

Monasteries, like this one,
were attacked and destroyed.

In 1939, this monastery was next
on the hit list for the communists

who had already obliterated
hundreds of monasteries

and killed 10,000 monks.

Virtually all of it was destroyed
before the Soviet Union's leader,

Joseph Stalin, stepped in
and saved what you see today.

Now, don't give Stalin
too much credit.

He did it as a showpiece
for the world

to prove communism
was religiously tolerant.

In his twisted logic,

Stalin ended up saving what is today
a UNESCO World Heritage Site

and a place for Buddhist pilgrims.

Mongolia proved
there are still surprising,

wonderful places to discover

with amazing and friendly people
to meet.

My initial quest was to connect

with one of the last nomadic people
in the world,

but I got so much more.

The felt festival was great.

And I saw ancient petroglyphs
telling a story of a rich culture

thousands of years old.

As for history buffs,

Karakorum, the ancient capital
of Genghis Khan himself,

is no longer the grandiose capital,

but it is still rich
in culture and history.

The Erdene monastery,
oldest in the country,

is part of a landscape
and architecture

that constitutes one of Mongolia's
UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

The biggest, and I do mean biggest,

tribute to the founder of united
Mongolia is Genghis Khan's statue.

But again, it was the people
that made this trip for me.

I truly believe the saying

that the more you know,

the more you know you don't know.

From talks with my guides
and drivers,

I learned of many other sites

and future quests
I can have in Mongolia.

This was a crazy, fun
and mind-boggling adventure,

and I am truly looking forward
to my next visit.

Captions by Red Bee Media
(c) SBS Australia 2023