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Would you like to inspect the original subtitles? These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:05,940 --> 00:00:08,070 NICK KNOWLES: 'Welcome to Death Valley, 2 00:00:08,100 --> 00:00:09,870 'the hottest place on Earth. 3 00:00:09,900 --> 00:00:13,110 'I'm here to pit myself against the elements.' 4 00:00:13,140 --> 00:00:16,070 I've got a banging headache. Yeah, people die out here. 5 00:00:16,100 --> 00:00:18,070 'There'll be some highs...' 6 00:00:18,100 --> 00:00:20,310 There you go. Yeah-hey-hey-hey! 7 00:00:20,340 --> 00:00:22,710 '..And some shockers.' 8 00:00:22,740 --> 00:00:24,950 You can handle the gopher snake right there. 9 00:00:24,980 --> 00:00:27,230 He's a very sweet boy. 'But despite the dangers...' 10 00:00:27,260 --> 00:00:28,790 HE PANTS 11 00:00:28,820 --> 00:00:31,670 That's just ridiculous. I'm, like, totally drained by that. 12 00:00:31,700 --> 00:00:34,150 I was only out there a few hours. 13 00:00:34,180 --> 00:00:36,310 '..|'ll discover there's so much more here 14 00:00:36,340 --> 00:00:38,190 'than scorching wilderness.' 15 00:00:38,220 --> 00:00:40,030 Oh, it's a bobcat track. 16 00:00:40,060 --> 00:00:42,230 You can't go eating bobcats! 17 00:00:42,260 --> 00:00:44,190 'Stories of incredible human endeavour...' 18 00:00:45,340 --> 00:00:47,310 Well, I was not expecting this! 19 00:00:47,340 --> 00:00:49,110 '..Magical vistas...' 20 00:00:49,140 --> 00:00:50,470 Oh, my gosh! 21 00:00:50,500 --> 00:00:53,190 '..And jaw-dropping landscapes...' 22 00:00:53,220 --> 00:00:54,670 Whoa, slow down! 23 00:00:56,100 --> 00:00:57,270 That good? 24 00:00:57,300 --> 00:01:00,190 '..This is like no other place on Earth.' 25 00:01:00,220 --> 00:01:02,750 Close up, it's just an ugly mess, 26 00:01:02,780 --> 00:01:05,710 but en masse, that ugly somehow becomes beautiful. 27 00:01:05,740 --> 00:01:07,710 'What have I let myself in for?' 28 00:01:20,860 --> 00:01:23,510 'I've been in the hottest place on Earth for a week. 29 00:01:25,060 --> 00:01:28,670 'And the desolate beauty of America's biggest national park, 30 00:01:28,700 --> 00:01:31,270 'outside of Alaska, is breath-taking.' 31 00:01:32,940 --> 00:01:37,070 'And my camp at Furnace Creek is starting to feel like home.' 32 00:01:39,900 --> 00:01:42,430 Look at the sun on those mountains first thing in the morning. 33 00:01:42,460 --> 00:01:44,830 Isn't that beautiful? That's what you get in the valley. 34 00:01:44,860 --> 00:01:47,510 In the background, the crew are getting ready for the day. 35 00:01:47,540 --> 00:01:50,150 We've got breakfast being made for us by our support crew. 36 00:01:50,180 --> 00:01:51,590 And just over here... 37 00:01:51,620 --> 00:01:54,870 is my four-by-four, which is electric, 38 00:01:54,900 --> 00:01:56,590 which is much nicer for the environment. 39 00:01:56,620 --> 00:01:58,830 Of course, I have to make sure I've got plenty of charge 40 00:01:58,860 --> 00:02:00,350 when I set out for the day. 41 00:02:00,380 --> 00:02:02,070 And if you follow me over into this corner, 42 00:02:02,100 --> 00:02:04,070 here's my little tent. 43 00:02:04,100 --> 00:02:06,190 But there's no time to hang around. 44 00:02:07,620 --> 00:02:10,590 Right, time to put myself to the test. 45 00:02:14,460 --> 00:02:16,150 RADIO: 'This is KNPR. All week long, 46 00:02:16,180 --> 00:02:18,630 'we have had excessive heat warnings for the entire region, 47 00:02:18,660 --> 00:02:21,310 'and nowhere has that been the case more than around Death Valley. 48 00:02:21,340 --> 00:02:22,950 'Death Valley temperatures today...' 49 00:02:22,980 --> 00:02:24,270 RADIO FADES OUT 50 00:02:24,300 --> 00:02:27,030 'The last leg of my journey will take me to 51 00:02:27,060 --> 00:02:30,550 'the furthest reaches of this baking hot valley. 52 00:02:30,580 --> 00:02:31,870 'From the far south, 53 00:02:31,900 --> 00:02:34,630 'where it borders the wider Mojave Desert, 54 00:02:34,660 --> 00:02:37,390 'to a Gold Rush ghost town in the north, 55 00:02:37,420 --> 00:02:39,830 'with my last stop at Death Valley junction.' 56 00:02:43,980 --> 00:02:46,150 Despite the ridiculously tough conditions here, 57 00:02:46,180 --> 00:02:49,790 over 400 animal species make their home here in the desert. 58 00:02:51,020 --> 00:02:53,510 You've got jack rabbits, coyotes, bird life, 59 00:02:53,540 --> 00:02:55,190 and, of course, snakes. 60 00:02:56,500 --> 00:02:58,310 'And if there's one creature that feels like 61 00:02:58,340 --> 00:03:01,910 'it belongs in Death Valley, it's the rattlesnake.' 62 00:03:01,940 --> 00:03:03,790 RATTLING 63 00:03:05,580 --> 00:03:07,030 HISSING 64 00:03:07,060 --> 00:03:09,950 I'm off to meet somebody who not only works with them, 65 00:03:09,980 --> 00:03:12,190 rescues them, but also loves them. 66 00:03:13,580 --> 00:03:16,190 'Danielle Wall makes her living 67 00:03:16,220 --> 00:03:19,590 'removing unwelcome rattlesnakes from people's property. 68 00:03:19,620 --> 00:03:24,310 'She believes they deserve our respect more than our fear. 69 00:03:24,340 --> 00:03:25,670 'I've come early, 70 00:03:25,700 --> 00:03:28,470 'because although they live in the hottest place on Earth, 71 00:03:28,500 --> 00:03:31,750 'surprisingly, these snakes don't like the midday heat.' 72 00:03:33,140 --> 00:03:35,350 Hi, how you doing? Thanks for having me. 73 00:03:35,380 --> 00:03:38,670 You are a snake specialist. I am. Rattlesnake specialist. 74 00:03:38,700 --> 00:03:42,150 Wow. Mm-hm. I'm excited to meet the snakes. Good, good. 75 00:03:42,180 --> 00:03:44,510 Slightly nervous, obviously, like most people would be. 76 00:03:44,540 --> 00:03:47,190 Are all rattlesnakes poisonous and dangerous? 77 00:03:47,220 --> 00:03:49,390 Most people will say poisonous, 78 00:03:49,420 --> 00:03:51,830 but poison is when you consume something, 79 00:03:51,860 --> 00:03:53,550 and venomous, like these snakes, 80 00:03:53,580 --> 00:03:55,750 are when something is injected into you. 81 00:03:55,780 --> 00:03:57,550 But, yes, all California rattlesnakes 82 00:03:57,580 --> 00:04:00,350 are medically-significant, potentially deadly. 83 00:04:00,380 --> 00:04:01,910 Is there anything I can handle? 84 00:04:01,940 --> 00:04:04,230 Yeah, you can handle the gopher snake right there. 85 00:04:04,260 --> 00:04:06,430 He's a very sweet boy. Is he? 86 00:04:06,460 --> 00:04:08,070 {\i1}HE CHUCKLES{\i0} 87 00:04:08,100 --> 00:04:09,590 Is he really? 88 00:04:09,620 --> 00:04:11,350 He'll give you some kisses and everything. 89 00:04:11,380 --> 00:04:13,070 Right, let's go, then. 90 00:04:13,100 --> 00:04:15,030 And I'll ask you some questions as we go. 91 00:04:15,060 --> 00:04:16,790 Here you are. 92 00:04:18,100 --> 00:04:20,350 So, he will hold onto you. 93 00:04:20,380 --> 00:04:22,350 This snake is capable of climbing trees. 94 00:04:22,380 --> 00:04:26,710 He will go up for birds, for his prey, his lunch. 95 00:04:26,740 --> 00:04:28,670 He's smooth. Very, yes. 96 00:04:28,700 --> 00:04:30,110 I like that you point that out. 97 00:04:30,140 --> 00:04:34,110 The non-venomous species will look and feel smooth. 98 00:04:34,140 --> 00:04:36,710 The rattlesnakes are the opposite, coarse and rough. 99 00:04:36,740 --> 00:04:38,350 But this isn't a rattlesnake, then? 100 00:04:38,380 --> 00:04:42,590 No, he mimics a rattlesnake near flawlessly, 101 00:04:42,620 --> 00:04:44,990 and that will fool the average person. 102 00:04:45,020 --> 00:04:47,470 So, it's called the gopher snake. He doesn't eat gophers? 103 00:04:47,500 --> 00:04:48,910 He will, yes. 104 00:04:51,380 --> 00:04:54,070 So, how much does he constrict? Do I need to worry about this? 105 00:04:54,100 --> 00:04:57,430 No, no, nothing that snake could do will harm you in any way. OK. 106 00:04:57,460 --> 00:05:00,430 Might draw a trickle of blood if he decides to bite you. 107 00:05:00,460 --> 00:05:01,510 But that's it. 108 00:05:01,540 --> 00:05:03,390 You didn't mention that in the beginning. 109 00:05:03,420 --> 00:05:05,870 Just a trickle! OK. Looking down, you've actually got 110 00:05:05,900 --> 00:05:08,550 a couple of other snakes. Yes. Now, are they proper rattlesnakes? 111 00:05:08,580 --> 00:05:10,310 Yes, these are speckled rattlesnakes. 112 00:05:10,340 --> 00:05:12,510 They have their full venom glands. 113 00:05:12,540 --> 00:05:15,310 So these things are ready to go, yeah. 114 00:05:15,340 --> 00:05:19,550 On average, snake bites cause five deaths a year in America 115 00:05:19,580 --> 00:05:23,630 and 90% of those are from venomous rattlesnakes like these, 116 00:05:23,660 --> 00:05:25,630 which professional handlers like Dani 117 00:05:25,660 --> 00:05:27,350 are opposed to de-venoming. 118 00:05:28,500 --> 00:05:30,710 I want the big one. 119 00:05:34,500 --> 00:05:36,430 These are very serious animals. 120 00:05:36,460 --> 00:05:39,830 So even though I'm very, very well experienced, 121 00:05:39,860 --> 00:05:43,750 I have handled probably about 1,000 of these at this point, 122 00:05:43,780 --> 00:05:45,510 still a very serious animal. 123 00:05:45,540 --> 00:05:49,190 Yeah, he looks a lot more serious. Yeah, they have venom glands. 124 00:05:49,220 --> 00:05:51,350 And that's why they have those big, pouffy cheeks 125 00:05:51,380 --> 00:05:53,030 that the gopher snakes do not. 126 00:05:53,060 --> 00:05:55,310 If this was to bite me now, how serious would that be? 127 00:05:55,340 --> 00:05:58,550 We would be getting you to the hospital as quickly as possible, 128 00:05:58,580 --> 00:06:01,230 but the chance of you passing away from a bite 129 00:06:01,260 --> 00:06:03,670 is about one in every thousand. 130 00:06:03,700 --> 00:06:06,070 But it is still, you know... I don't want those odds. 131 00:06:06,100 --> 00:06:08,110 So what is your advice if you're out in the wild 132 00:06:08,140 --> 00:06:10,390 and you come across one of these? just watch your step. 133 00:06:10,420 --> 00:06:12,030 The snakes aren't out to get you. 134 00:06:12,060 --> 00:06:14,630 They're not leaping out of a bush to bite you. 135 00:06:14,660 --> 00:06:17,670 But they will coil up and defend themselves. 136 00:06:17,700 --> 00:06:21,270 So your best preventative action is watch where you step 137 00:06:21,300 --> 00:06:23,790 and make sure that step isn't on top of a rattlesnake. 138 00:06:23,820 --> 00:06:27,590 Ancl if you do see one, just give it its space, walk around. 139 00:06:27,620 --> 00:06:30,990 If you can't walk around, well, your hike's over for the clay. 140 00:06:34,940 --> 00:06:36,830 So, what's the rattle all about? 141 00:06:36,860 --> 00:06:40,270 The rattle is simply its last resort of saying, 142 00:06:40,300 --> 00:06:42,990 "Please stay away from me, I don't wanna die." 143 00:06:43,020 --> 00:06:44,710 And he would go like that. RATTLING 144 00:06:44,740 --> 00:06:47,150 Ancl it's just simply the rattle hitting itself 145 00:06:47,180 --> 00:06:48,990 that creates that noise. 146 00:06:49,020 --> 00:06:50,470 RATTLING 147 00:06:50,500 --> 00:06:54,190 'Dani has been rescuing and releasing injured rattlesnakes 148 00:06:54,220 --> 00:06:55,750 'for five years now, 149 00:06:55,780 --> 00:07:00,270 'and her unusual concern for this Death Valley native is inspiring.' 150 00:07:00,300 --> 00:07:01,950 So, why do you love them so much? 151 00:07:01,980 --> 00:07:04,710 I have this internal guilt that my first interaction 152 00:07:04,740 --> 00:07:07,470 with a rattlesnake in the desert was I almost ran it over. 153 00:07:07,500 --> 00:07:10,630 And after that, my mission became to save them. 154 00:07:10,660 --> 00:07:12,590 Wow. Simple as that. 155 00:07:12,620 --> 00:07:14,830 Well, he's still a good boy! 156 00:07:14,860 --> 00:07:16,430 We all like our belly rubs. 157 00:07:16,460 --> 00:07:18,590 He's very well-behaved. Good job. 158 00:07:21,020 --> 00:07:24,270 It was very nice meeting you. He's cute. I like him a lot. 159 00:07:24,300 --> 00:07:26,470 Can I pop him back in here? There we go. 160 00:07:26,500 --> 00:07:28,510 Perfect. That was kind of amazing. 161 00:07:28,540 --> 00:07:30,830 And seeing your joy and love for them. 162 00:07:30,860 --> 00:07:32,870 I've always kind of liked snakes, 163 00:07:32,900 --> 00:07:35,590 but to actually get that close to rattlesnakes 164 00:07:35,620 --> 00:07:37,950 was kind of amazing for me so... I'm so glad. 165 00:07:37,980 --> 00:07:40,150 Thank you so much. You're not even sweating. 166 00:07:40,180 --> 00:07:44,910 No, I think they're amazing creatures, amazing. They are. 167 00:07:47,060 --> 00:07:50,270 'Next, I venture to the lowest, hottest point in America, 168 00:07:50,300 --> 00:07:53,270 'in the footsteps of the early pioneers...' 169 00:07:53,300 --> 00:07:57,150 That's not a river, by the way, that's baked salt. 170 00:07:57,180 --> 00:08:00,830 '..And discover for myself why they call it Death Valley.' 171 00:08:00,860 --> 00:08:03,830 I've got a banging headache. Yeah, people die out here. 172 00:08:18,780 --> 00:08:22,070 'The vast Mojave Desert spans four states 173 00:08:22,100 --> 00:08:25,710 'over 48,000 square miles, 174 00:08:25,740 --> 00:08:27,910 'almost the size of England. 175 00:08:27,940 --> 00:08:31,870 'Death Valley lies in the middle, and in the middle of Death Valley 176 00:08:31,900 --> 00:08:36,550 'is a barren salt flat called Bad water Basin. 177 00:08:39,660 --> 00:08:42,670 'It's the lowest place in North America, 178 00:08:42,700 --> 00:08:45,950 'and it's one of the hottest, driest places on Earth.' 179 00:08:50,900 --> 00:08:52,630 The amazing thing about this environment is 180 00:08:52,660 --> 00:08:54,230 you are a long way from anywhere, 181 00:08:54,260 --> 00:08:56,590 and out on the valley floor here, where the salt is, 182 00:08:56,620 --> 00:08:58,790 it bounces the heat back up. It's already hot. 183 00:08:58,820 --> 00:09:00,830 But with the salt bouncing the heat back up again, 184 00:09:00,860 --> 00:09:02,550 it's really, really, desperately hot. 185 00:09:05,180 --> 00:09:07,510 Close up, it's just an ugly mess, 186 00:09:07,540 --> 00:09:11,510 but en masse, that ugly somehow becomes beautiful. 187 00:09:13,060 --> 00:09:17,990 'In 1849, a 100-strong wagon train, carrying settlers 188 00:09:18,020 --> 00:09:20,710 'bound for California and gold, 189 00:09:20,740 --> 00:09:23,910 'set out with high hopes for a glittering future. 190 00:09:23,940 --> 00:09:26,150 'Lost, the party split up. 191 00:09:26,180 --> 00:09:30,470 'One group took what they thought was a shortcut across the valley. 192 00:09:30,500 --> 00:09:32,910 'Standing on the ridge, you can see why. 193 00:09:32,940 --> 00:09:36,870 'From a distance, it looks narrow and covered in water.' 194 00:09:36,900 --> 00:09:39,630 As you look down there, that's not a river, by the way, 195 00:09:39,660 --> 00:09:41,590 that's baked salt. 196 00:09:41,620 --> 00:09:43,790 Standing up here on the ridge, 197 00:09:43,820 --> 00:09:46,550 you can see how those settlers in 1849 198 00:09:46,580 --> 00:09:50,590 were suckered into the idea that Death Valley might be easy to cross. 199 00:09:50,620 --> 00:09:52,870 It looks very smooth. It's not until you get down there, 200 00:09:52,900 --> 00:09:55,710 you realise it's rutted and crusty with salt 201 00:09:55,740 --> 00:09:58,310 and really difficult for wagon trains to get across. 202 00:09:59,580 --> 00:10:02,390 'They had made a near-fatal mistake. 203 00:10:02,420 --> 00:10:07,990 'With only a few weeks' rations... and water in scarce supply, 204 00:10:08,020 --> 00:10:12,910 'they trudged on, day after day, through baking heat. 205 00:10:18,980 --> 00:10:22,150 'After more than three months of suffering, 206 00:10:22,180 --> 00:10:25,830 'they finally escaped the scorching valley, 207 00:10:25,860 --> 00:10:29,790 'emerging dehydrated and skeletally-thin.' 208 00:10:32,340 --> 00:10:34,950 They say that one of them looked back as they escaped it, 209 00:10:34,980 --> 00:10:39,630 only just making it out alive, and said, "Goodbye, Death Valley." 210 00:10:39,660 --> 00:10:41,150 And that's how it got its name. 211 00:10:43,100 --> 00:10:45,110 'Known as the Lost 49ers, 212 00:10:45,140 --> 00:10:49,030 'their ordeal has gone down in US history - 213 00:10:49,060 --> 00:10:52,590 'a tale of survival in the face of incredible odds. 214 00:11:02,220 --> 00:11:06,270 'Those poor souls crossed Bad water Basin with no maps, 215 00:11:06,300 --> 00:11:10,590 'no mobile phones, no air-conditioned cars. 216 00:11:10,620 --> 00:11:13,350 'The man I'm meeting next has all of those things 217 00:11:13,380 --> 00:11:16,750 'but never takes this place for granted... 218 00:11:16,780 --> 00:11:19,790 'because it is still dangerous.' 219 00:11:19,820 --> 00:11:21,670 RADIO: 'Thank you very much for joining. 220 00:11:21,700 --> 00:11:24,910 'With temperatures at or above 125 degrees, 221 00:11:24,940 --> 00:11:28,550 'telling you to stay cool out there is kind of absurd, 222 00:11:28,580 --> 00:11:30,030 'but do the best you can, 223 00:11:30,060 --> 00:11:32,750 'and make sure you drink lots of water.' 224 00:11:32,780 --> 00:11:36,230 'Despite the challenges of this arid wilderness, 225 00:11:36,260 --> 00:11:40,070 'nature not only survives here, it thrives, 226 00:11:40,100 --> 00:11:42,790 'and 1,000 different plants grow in the valley. 227 00:11:45,140 --> 00:11:46,950 'But they are under attack...' 228 00:11:50,100 --> 00:11:53,790 '..from invaders, non-native species, 229 00:11:53,820 --> 00:11:57,430 'that threaten to destroy this unique ecosystem.' 230 00:11:58,740 --> 00:12:01,350 There's a chap I'm gonna meet now whose job it is 231 00:12:01,380 --> 00:12:03,670 is to go out into the valley at all times of the year, 232 00:12:03,700 --> 00:12:05,590 no matter how hot it gets, 233 00:12:05,620 --> 00:12:08,590 and cut down and get rid of those invasive species, 234 00:12:08,620 --> 00:12:11,430 otherwise they'd take over. 235 00:12:11,460 --> 00:12:14,790 'Plant specialist Ian Torrance is the man leading the battle 236 00:12:14,820 --> 00:12:19,750 'against the invaders through the blazing heat.' 237 00:12:19,780 --> 00:12:21,950 Ian. Yes. Hi, Nick. 238 00:12:21,980 --> 00:12:23,990 How are you? Nice to see you. Good, how are you? 239 00:12:24,020 --> 00:12:25,910 Good, looking forward to helping you today. 240 00:12:25,940 --> 00:12:28,350 Yes, I need your help. OK, so, what are we up to? 241 00:12:28,380 --> 00:12:30,350 Well, we're gonna walk out here, 242 00:12:30,380 --> 00:12:33,430 and there's some salt cedar, or tamarisk, 243 00:12:33,460 --> 00:12:36,670 and we're gonna go out and cut it and treat it with herbicide. 244 00:12:39,900 --> 00:12:42,270 I imagine if I ever got to walk on the moon, 245 00:12:42,300 --> 00:12:44,350 it would be a bit like this. 246 00:12:44,380 --> 00:12:46,230 It's tough on the ankles, this, isn't it? 247 00:12:46,260 --> 00:12:48,630 Yeah, just be careful. Really uneven surface. 248 00:12:48,660 --> 00:12:49,910 Yes, it is. 249 00:12:49,940 --> 00:12:52,510 Why don't you just drive the four-by-four over to the plant? 250 00:12:52,540 --> 00:12:55,630 I wish we could, but this is a Wilderness Area, 251 00:12:55,660 --> 00:12:58,110 and one of the rules of Wilderness Areas 252 00:12:58,140 --> 00:13:01,590 is no motorised vehicles, no motorised equipment. 253 00:13:01,620 --> 00:13:04,870 The Death Valley National Park is highly protective 254 00:13:04,900 --> 00:13:08,750 of this delicate environment. Many of the animals and plants 255 00:13:08,780 --> 00:13:11,550 adapted to the extreme conditions here 256 00:13:11,580 --> 00:13:14,110 are found nowhere else on Earth. 257 00:13:15,340 --> 00:13:19,110 Ian! What about this one? Is this invasive? 258 00:13:19,140 --> 00:13:21,710 No, this is honey mesquite, this is a native plant. 259 00:13:21,740 --> 00:13:25,390 We like this plant. OK. On we go, then. 260 00:13:26,940 --> 00:13:29,310 'Finally, after a half-a-mile trek...' 261 00:13:29,340 --> 00:13:30,750 Phwoar, it's hot, innit? 262 00:13:30,780 --> 00:13:32,590 '..We find what we're looking for. 263 00:13:34,540 --> 00:13:37,870 'One of Death Valley's most prolific invaders.' 264 00:13:37,900 --> 00:13:39,310 What is it? 265 00:13:39,340 --> 00:13:42,870 This is tamarisk, or common name is salt cedar. 266 00:13:42,900 --> 00:13:45,110 So, if it's not native to here, where's it from? 267 00:13:45,140 --> 00:13:47,430 Eurasia. How did it get here? 268 00:13:47,460 --> 00:13:50,230 The government introduced the plant in the Southwest 269 00:13:50,260 --> 00:13:52,950 as erosion control, wind block. 270 00:13:52,980 --> 00:13:57,310 It grows really fast in a very inhospitable place, 271 00:13:57,340 --> 00:13:59,590 and it did all the things they thought it would do, 272 00:13:59,620 --> 00:14:02,310 but it's gone out of control. 273 00:14:02,340 --> 00:14:05,350 'Since its introduction, the tamarisk has spread 274 00:14:05,380 --> 00:14:08,110 'over a million acres of the American Southwest. 275 00:14:08,140 --> 00:14:09,950 'Without being controlled, 276 00:14:09,980 --> 00:14:14,270 'even a single tree can drink more than 20 gallons of water a day, 277 00:14:14,300 --> 00:14:16,470 'killing everything around it.' 278 00:14:16,500 --> 00:14:19,030 So, we have to cut them down and things like that 279 00:14:19,060 --> 00:14:20,870 to take care of them. 280 00:14:20,900 --> 00:14:24,030 Let me see if I can find a starting place. Here we go. 281 00:14:28,900 --> 00:14:32,030 This is... heavy work in this heat. 282 00:14:32,060 --> 00:14:34,150 NICK STRAINS That's it. 283 00:14:35,380 --> 00:14:37,710 Wow! Fantastic. 284 00:14:37,740 --> 00:14:40,230 All right, so now we've cut it, 285 00:14:40,260 --> 00:14:42,030 we've gotta spray it with herbicide. 286 00:14:42,060 --> 00:14:43,790 Yeah? Yeah. 287 00:14:43,820 --> 00:14:45,990 'Armed with his saw and his poison, 288 00:14:46,020 --> 00:14:48,990 'Ian destroys hundreds and hundreds of these plants every year. 289 00:14:53,340 --> 00:14:55,230 'But as the temperature rises, 290 00:14:55,260 --> 00:15:01,510 'it becomes obvious how unused I am to these sweltering conditions.' 291 00:15:01,540 --> 00:15:04,350 I can't help noticing I'm out of breath and sweating 292 00:15:04,380 --> 00:15:05,710 and you're not. 293 00:15:05,740 --> 00:15:07,870 Well, that's because you're doing all the cutting. 294 00:15:07,900 --> 00:15:09,230 This job's easier. 295 00:15:09,260 --> 00:15:12,030 Yeah, but you look more comfortable in the environment than I am. 296 00:15:12,060 --> 00:15:13,190 Yeah, well, I live here. 297 00:15:13,220 --> 00:15:17,150 I'm acclimatised, and I'm a runner, I do ultramarathons. 298 00:15:17,180 --> 00:15:19,150 What, for fun? For fun. 299 00:15:19,180 --> 00:15:21,030 Really? Yeah. 300 00:15:21,060 --> 00:15:22,750 Why? Why would you put yourself through it? 301 00:15:22,780 --> 00:15:24,110 It's a big question. 302 00:15:24,140 --> 00:15:27,870 You're doing it to get to the finish line, you're challenging yourself. 303 00:15:27,900 --> 00:15:32,110 'And Ian has another marathon on his hands right here - 304 00:15:32,140 --> 00:15:36,630 'a seemingly endless task that could only be done one tree at a time...' 305 00:15:36,660 --> 00:15:38,030 You got it. 306 00:15:38,060 --> 00:15:41,150 There we go. Right on. 307 00:15:41,180 --> 00:15:44,510 '..And after a couple of hours in the punishing heat... 308 00:15:44,540 --> 00:15:46,350 'I'm done...' 309 00:15:46,380 --> 00:15:50,230 Oof. Go get a drink of water. Yep, it's all over here. 310 00:15:52,300 --> 00:15:56,670 '..And I soon realise I've pushed myself to hard.' 311 00:15:56,700 --> 00:15:59,390 {\i1}BREATHES HEAV“)!{\i0} 312 00:15:59,420 --> 00:16:01,670 Oh, that's just ridiculous. 313 00:16:01,700 --> 00:16:04,110 {\i1}BREATHES HEAV“)!{\i0} 314 00:16:08,700 --> 00:16:11,830 Thank you very much. You need to put that in and stir it up. 315 00:16:11,860 --> 00:16:16,790 So, this is a... electrolyte sort of replacement. 316 00:16:16,820 --> 00:16:18,750 I sweated so much during that session. 317 00:16:18,780 --> 00:16:21,630 You know, I can feel it now, I've got a banging headache... 318 00:16:23,740 --> 00:16:25,950 ...and my legs are absolutely drained. 319 00:16:33,460 --> 00:16:35,510 Hats off to you. 320 00:16:35,540 --> 00:16:38,070 The work you do in these conditions, I don't know how you do it. 321 00:16:38,100 --> 00:16:40,270 I've only spent a few hours out there. Yeah. 322 00:16:40,300 --> 00:16:43,270 Head's banging, feeling my age, I'm feeling my weight, 323 00:16:43,300 --> 00:16:45,630 I'm knackered. I... I sweated, too. 324 00:16:45,660 --> 00:16:47,990 Well, if an ultra marathon runner is sweating... 325 00:16:48,020 --> 00:16:49,470 it makes me feel a little bit better, 326 00:16:49,500 --> 00:16:51,630 but it's not an environment to take lightly, is it? 327 00:16:51,660 --> 00:16:53,510 No, it's dangerous. 328 00:16:54,820 --> 00:16:56,310 People die out here. 329 00:16:57,900 --> 00:16:59,310 Not today. No. 330 00:17:01,660 --> 00:17:04,230 'It's a stark reminder for me, 331 00:17:04,260 --> 00:17:07,470 'this scorching environment can be really dangerous.' 332 00:17:20,340 --> 00:17:22,470 RADIO: 'This is KNPR at KNPR.0rg. 333 00:17:22,500 --> 00:17:24,350 'As you're headed to Death Valley, 334 00:17:24,380 --> 00:17:28,510 'stay cool and drink a lot of water.' 335 00:17:29,700 --> 00:17:33,390 'I've got out of the sun, cooled down, and had plenty to drink. 336 00:17:33,420 --> 00:17:36,270 'I'm feeling ready for my next stop, 337 00:17:36,300 --> 00:17:40,990 'where I'll discover not all non-native plants are the enemy.' 338 00:17:42,180 --> 00:17:44,950 Now, obviously, because it's a national park, 339 00:17:44,980 --> 00:17:48,390 they don't want invasive species growing in the park. 340 00:17:48,420 --> 00:17:51,590 But there is one plant which has made its home here. 341 00:17:52,700 --> 00:17:54,870 It's been an important industry for the area, 342 00:17:54,900 --> 00:17:56,550 and I'm gonna go and help pick some now. 343 00:17:58,420 --> 00:18:01,830 'I'm headed just south of Death Valley to China Ranch, 344 00:18:01,860 --> 00:18:04,910 'a farm that grows one of the few fruits 345 00:18:04,940 --> 00:18:06,670 'that flourish in the desert...' 346 00:18:10,900 --> 00:18:11,870 '..dates.' 347 00:18:15,140 --> 00:18:16,950 'Field manager, Kayla Thomas, 348 00:18:16,980 --> 00:18:20,030 'has agreed to let me help bring in today's harvest.' 349 00:18:23,180 --> 00:18:26,790 The thorns on the end of these leaf branches, they're like needles. 350 00:18:26,820 --> 00:18:28,990 Yes. They are actually strong enough to impale you. 351 00:18:29,020 --> 00:18:33,230 I have seen people get stabbed with them, I have stepped on them myself. 352 00:18:33,260 --> 00:18:34,390 They're pretty gnarly. 353 00:18:34,420 --> 00:18:37,030 That's part of our cleaning process, so we machete off the thorns, 354 00:18:37,060 --> 00:18:38,910 and that is, like, so satisfying. 355 00:18:38,940 --> 00:18:40,790 CH UCKLES What? To wield your machete? 356 00:18:40,820 --> 00:18:42,990 Oh, yeah. Oh, yeah. You're an interesting person. 357 00:18:43,020 --> 00:18:45,350 Why, thank you. THEY LAUGH 358 00:18:45,380 --> 00:18:47,670 I'm looking forward to this. Let's go. 359 00:18:47,700 --> 00:18:50,030 'At the end of the 19th century, 360 00:18:50,060 --> 00:18:53,390 'the US Government looked for crops that would flourish 361 00:18:53,420 --> 00:18:59,110 'in California's warm climate and provide jobs for the new settlers. 362 00:18:59,140 --> 00:19:02,190 'Date farms from the Middle East proved to be a winner. 363 00:19:02,220 --> 00:19:04,630 'Such was their success, that these days, 364 00:19:04,660 --> 00:19:08,230 '90% of America's dates are grown in California.' 365 00:19:10,100 --> 00:19:11,230 So, can you pull it up a bit 366 00:19:11,260 --> 00:19:13,350 and show us what they look like? Yeah, of course. 367 00:19:15,980 --> 00:19:18,270 OK. Oh, and there you go. One's fallen off straight away. 368 00:19:18,300 --> 00:19:20,070 Just grab that one that fell off. 369 00:19:20,100 --> 00:19:22,510 Now, does that mean the dark ones like this, presumably, 370 00:19:22,540 --> 00:19:24,070 that means they're ripe? Yes. 371 00:19:24,100 --> 00:19:26,550 And the red ones, like these ones here, 372 00:19:26,580 --> 00:19:28,070 that's before they ripen up, right? 373 00:19:28,100 --> 00:19:29,990 Yeah, so they haven't produced their sugar yet. 374 00:19:30,020 --> 00:19:31,590 Um, they start producing sugar 375 00:19:31,620 --> 00:19:33,830 when they start becoming either black or brown dates. 376 00:19:36,020 --> 00:19:37,790 And what's the netting for? 377 00:19:37,820 --> 00:19:40,950 So, the netting is to protect the dates from birds 378 00:19:40,980 --> 00:19:42,670 and for the lower trees, it's the coyotes. 379 00:19:42,700 --> 00:19:45,510 The coyotes will actually take the bags off and eat the dates. 380 00:19:45,540 --> 00:19:47,510 OK, and can I have a bite of this? Of course you can. 381 00:19:47,540 --> 00:19:50,070 There's a pit in the middle. Yeah, I remember that. 382 00:19:53,060 --> 00:19:55,270 This is delicious. I made that. 383 00:19:55,300 --> 00:19:57,630 THEY LAUGH You're so proud of your dates. 384 00:19:57,660 --> 00:19:59,110 Honestly, it's great. Thank you. 385 00:19:59,140 --> 00:20:00,950 They're really tasty, and they're, like... 386 00:20:00,980 --> 00:20:02,590 Like a deep, almost molasses flavour? 387 00:20:02,620 --> 00:20:05,070 That's the word I was looking for, molasses. That's what it is. 388 00:20:05,100 --> 00:20:06,870 Sweet, but not too sweet. 389 00:20:06,900 --> 00:20:09,070 If we're gonna pick some, how do I do it? 390 00:20:09,100 --> 00:20:11,950 So, I'm gonna put this bucket underneath this bundle here... Yeah. 391 00:20:11,980 --> 00:20:14,430 ...and then you're gonna come up and give it a shake. 392 00:20:14,460 --> 00:20:16,630 So I wanna grab that and just shake the whole thing? Yep. 393 00:20:23,020 --> 00:20:25,430 Is that it? Yeah, that looks pretty good. 394 00:20:26,900 --> 00:20:29,070 Hey, that's a pretty good harvest. Yeah. 395 00:20:29,100 --> 00:20:32,470 So, how did you end up being a field manager for a date farm? 396 00:20:32,500 --> 00:20:34,070 I'm actually from Baltimore, Marilyn, 397 00:20:34,100 --> 00:20:36,390 so complete other side of the country. 398 00:20:36,420 --> 00:20:38,950 But I came out here about eight years ago, 399 00:20:38,980 --> 00:20:42,630 got a job here and decided it was weird, wacky and wonderful. 400 00:20:42,660 --> 00:20:44,270 Ancl I love the whole place here. 401 00:20:44,300 --> 00:20:46,510 It's an amazing place. 402 00:20:48,900 --> 00:20:51,390 Could we go out on a bit higher, so we could see over it? 403 00:20:51,420 --> 00:20:54,470 Of course. Thank you. 404 00:20:54,500 --> 00:20:57,870 'We're harvesting today, which is done by crane, 405 00:20:57,900 --> 00:21:01,510 'but pollinating the dates needs to be done by hand, 406 00:21:01,540 --> 00:21:05,910 'and the only way to reach every flower is to climb the palms, 407 00:21:05,940 --> 00:21:08,990 'and they can be over 75ft tall.' 408 00:21:10,140 --> 00:21:13,390 We're gonna rush you a little bit and try to put you through them. 409 00:21:16,620 --> 00:21:22,230 Wow. It's an amazing view, though, isn't it? The landscape is stunning. 410 00:21:22,260 --> 00:21:24,470 Yeah, I think I'm working 411 00:21:24,500 --> 00:21:27,030 in one of the most beautiful places out here, actually. 412 00:21:27,060 --> 00:21:29,230 I can see why you would wanna stay here and... 413 00:21:29,260 --> 00:21:31,430 Yeah, it's the most green we have down here, so for me, 414 00:21:31,460 --> 00:21:32,870 this is as close as I can get to home 415 00:21:32,900 --> 00:21:35,790 while still being in the desert. Yeah. 416 00:21:37,060 --> 00:21:40,430 It's an extraordinary place. You have a cool job. 417 00:21:40,460 --> 00:21:42,590 I have a very awesome job. I love my job. 418 00:21:42,620 --> 00:21:43,790 THEY LAUGH 419 00:21:48,540 --> 00:21:52,470 'As well as being delicious, dates are more versatile than I realised.' 420 00:21:54,300 --> 00:21:55,750 Thank you. 421 00:21:55,780 --> 00:21:58,230 I've never had a date shake at all, so I'm looking forward to it. 422 00:21:58,260 --> 00:22:00,830 Well, drink up. Enjoy. 423 00:22:00,860 --> 00:22:02,870 Oh, it's great. 424 00:22:02,900 --> 00:22:08,830 It's like, treacly, chocolatey, toffee. That's great. 425 00:22:08,860 --> 00:22:12,590 'Date sales in the US have nearly doubled in the last ten years, 426 00:22:12,620 --> 00:22:16,790 'so this California immigrant has definitely earned its keep.' 427 00:22:18,260 --> 00:22:22,950 Turns out you can use dates in baking, biscuits, muffins, bread. 428 00:22:24,220 --> 00:22:25,830 I'm gonna try it all when I get home. 429 00:22:25,860 --> 00:22:28,830 Remember, a date's not just for Christmas. 430 00:22:28,860 --> 00:22:32,070 'Next on my journey...' 431 00:22:32,100 --> 00:22:33,150 OK. 432 00:22:33,180 --> 00:22:36,430 '..| take on a challenge feet first...' 433 00:22:36,460 --> 00:22:37,710 How cool was that? 434 00:22:37,740 --> 00:22:41,350 '..And uncover the ghosts that haunt Death Valley.' 435 00:22:41,380 --> 00:22:43,310 They were all gone by 1912. 436 00:22:43,340 --> 00:22:45,910 That's ridiculous, you were talking about 10,000 people. 437 00:22:45,940 --> 00:22:48,030 Only for eight years? That's right. 438 00:23:00,060 --> 00:23:04,550 'The word desert conjures up images of vast stretches of sand, 439 00:23:04,580 --> 00:23:07,390 'but surprisingly, here in Death Valley, 440 00:23:07,420 --> 00:23:10,470 'less than 1 % of the desert is sand dunes. 441 00:23:13,140 --> 00:23:17,750 'But one place there's a lot of it is the Mesquite dunes, 442 00:23:17,780 --> 00:23:20,150 'where I've left the car, to travel by foot.' 443 00:23:21,300 --> 00:23:23,430 Dunes are incredibly difficult to walk on. 444 00:23:23,460 --> 00:23:25,270 They really sap your strength, 445 00:23:25,300 --> 00:23:27,550 and the sand bounces the sun back at you, 446 00:23:27,580 --> 00:23:29,790 so it almost doubles the temperature. 447 00:23:29,820 --> 00:23:32,470 But the environment is so beautiful, look at it. 448 00:23:32,500 --> 00:23:37,950 It's almost like nature painting shapes and shadows. 449 00:23:37,980 --> 00:23:40,350 I love that up here. 450 00:23:43,980 --> 00:23:47,790 'The dunes I'm standing on have been a source of inspiration. 451 00:23:47,820 --> 00:23:50,510 'In the 1970s, a sport was popularised here 452 00:23:50,540 --> 00:23:52,110 'that took the world by storm 453 00:23:52,140 --> 00:23:56,310 'and is now enjoyed on every continent, except Antarctica. 454 00:24:02,740 --> 00:24:06,270 'The chap behind the craze is Lon Beale, 455 00:24:06,300 --> 00:24:09,830 'also known as Doctor Dune.' 456 00:24:09,860 --> 00:24:12,630 Lon, how are you? I'm doing good, glad to meet you. 457 00:24:12,660 --> 00:24:15,190 Great to meet you. You're the guy who actually got it all started? 458 00:24:15,220 --> 00:24:16,870 What gave you the idea 459 00:24:16,900 --> 00:24:20,430 for starting sand boarding in the states and possibly the world? 460 00:24:20,460 --> 00:24:23,030 Well, we would come out here to these very dunes 461 00:24:23,060 --> 00:24:25,270 that we're standing on in the late '60s, 462 00:24:25,300 --> 00:24:27,590 and, of course, standing on the dunes, 463 00:24:27,620 --> 00:24:29,830 it's only natural that you wanna try slide down it. 464 00:24:29,860 --> 00:24:33,350 So pieces of cardboard, plastic were tried. 465 00:24:33,380 --> 00:24:35,630 They didn't work very well, but it was still fun, 466 00:24:35,660 --> 00:24:37,510 so it stuck in my brain. 467 00:24:37,540 --> 00:24:41,070 I wanted to produce something that would actually slide on the dunes 468 00:24:41,100 --> 00:24:44,510 and manoeuvre on the dunes with decent speed, and here we are. 469 00:24:46,820 --> 00:24:48,310 'Inspired by surfing, 470 00:24:48,340 --> 00:24:53,150 'snowboarding and skateboarding both took off at the same time. 471 00:24:53,180 --> 00:24:56,950 'The desert kids wanted in on the action too. 472 00:24:56,980 --> 00:24:58,990 'So Dr Dune supercharged sand boarding 473 00:24:59,020 --> 00:25:02,230 'by designing a board that was similar in shape. 474 00:25:02,260 --> 00:25:04,430 'Today, he's brought along a world-class instructor 475 00:25:04,460 --> 00:25:06,550 'to try to get me sliding on sand.' 476 00:25:07,740 --> 00:25:09,470 Matt Walton, he's gonna be the gentleman 477 00:25:09,500 --> 00:25:11,230 that's gonna take you through the paces. 478 00:25:11,260 --> 00:25:12,990 Hey, Matt. How are you? Hi, Nick. Pleasure. 479 00:25:13,020 --> 00:25:14,510 So, have I got any chance of doing this? 480 00:25:14,540 --> 00:25:16,310 You've got a great chance. 481 00:25:16,340 --> 00:25:18,110 Sandboarding is really easy to pick up, 482 00:25:18,140 --> 00:25:20,270 and we've got a great spot for you to try it. Brilliant. 483 00:25:20,300 --> 00:25:22,110 So, Nick, let's give this a shot. 484 00:25:22,140 --> 00:25:24,910 First things first, no shoes. 485 00:25:24,940 --> 00:25:27,430 That works for me. Me too. 486 00:25:27,460 --> 00:25:30,710 So, I brought this board for you. Yeah. Here you go. 487 00:25:30,740 --> 00:25:33,910 You've got a board, now let me get you piece of wax, 488 00:25:33,940 --> 00:25:36,310 because without this, we're not going anywhere. 489 00:25:36,340 --> 00:25:40,190 'Waxing helps reduce friction between board and sand, 490 00:25:40,220 --> 00:25:42,110 'and I'm ready to give this my best shot.' 491 00:25:51,900 --> 00:25:55,790 Matt made that look really easy. So it should be a piece of cake. 492 00:25:55,820 --> 00:25:59,070 Of course, he's a professional... I'm having my first go. 493 00:25:59,100 --> 00:26:01,190 Knees down, body up. 494 00:26:05,900 --> 00:26:07,510 I'm not doing much sliding, am I? 495 00:26:07,540 --> 00:26:11,790 After a few more attempts through a long sweltering afternoon... 496 00:26:11,820 --> 00:26:14,110 HE GROANS 497 00:26:15,260 --> 00:26:16,990 ...it looks like I'm getting the hang of it. 498 00:26:17,020 --> 00:26:18,670 Well clone. 499 00:26:18,700 --> 00:26:20,910 Thank you very much. How do I go further? 500 00:26:20,940 --> 00:26:24,670 If you wanna go further and faster, we're gonna need a bigger hill. 501 00:26:24,700 --> 00:26:25,870 Here we are. 502 00:26:26,980 --> 00:26:29,030 Oh, that's good. OK. 503 00:26:29,060 --> 00:26:31,830 Yeah, keep that back knee locked. Perfect. 504 00:26:34,100 --> 00:26:35,710 NICK LAUGHS 505 00:26:41,260 --> 00:26:45,230 Yes! How cool was that? 506 00:26:45,260 --> 00:26:46,550 I'm getting more confident. 507 00:26:46,580 --> 00:26:48,310 I reckon I can take on something bigger now. 508 00:26:48,340 --> 00:26:50,790 'We climb a bigger dune... 509 00:26:52,780 --> 00:26:54,430 '..and I'm feeling optimistic.' 510 00:27:01,460 --> 00:27:04,030 MATT LAUGHS 511 00:27:04,060 --> 00:27:06,630 That was not how I expected it to go. 512 00:27:06,660 --> 00:27:08,230 It all brushes off, though. 513 00:27:08,260 --> 00:27:11,030 Do you know what that is? It's called hubris. 514 00:27:11,060 --> 00:27:13,750 Pride before a fall. I said at the top, I'm really brilliant. 515 00:27:15,140 --> 00:27:16,270 Not sure I was ready for that. 516 00:27:18,140 --> 00:27:21,950 It's not a first clay of sand boarding if you don't take at least one fall. 517 00:27:21,980 --> 00:27:24,390 Do you know what? This is great fun, though. 518 00:27:24,420 --> 00:27:27,470 I mean, I shall walk away from here with aches and pains, but... 519 00:27:28,860 --> 00:27:29,950 Thank you, Matt. 520 00:27:32,100 --> 00:27:34,390 Do you think I could ever call myself a sand shark? 521 00:27:35,700 --> 00:27:37,070 Maybe next time. 522 00:27:40,380 --> 00:27:43,910 'These days, visitors just like me are drawn to Death Valley 523 00:27:43,940 --> 00:27:45,270 'for adventure and fun. 524 00:27:47,380 --> 00:27:49,190 'But at the start of the 20th century, 525 00:27:49,220 --> 00:27:53,990 'thousands of people came here, looking to make their fortunes.' 526 00:27:59,700 --> 00:28:03,390 Skidoo, Leadfield, Ballarat - 527 00:28:03,420 --> 00:28:07,590 all names of towns that burgeoned during the gold rush 528 00:28:07,620 --> 00:28:09,790 that have since disappeared. 529 00:28:09,820 --> 00:28:13,550 'I'm heading north east, all the way into the section 530 00:28:13,580 --> 00:28:16,350 'of Death Valley that lies in Nevada 531 00:28:16,380 --> 00:28:21,310 'to the biggest and best preserved gold rush town - Rhyolite. 532 00:28:22,860 --> 00:28:25,310 'The first clue that I'm on the right track 533 00:28:25,340 --> 00:28:27,710 'doesn't come from a ruined building...' 534 00:28:28,980 --> 00:28:30,070 Hello. 535 00:28:31,340 --> 00:28:34,670 I'm just driving through one of the towns here, 536 00:28:34,700 --> 00:28:37,670 and these mules came out to say hello. 537 00:28:37,700 --> 00:28:41,750 They're actually wild burros, as they're known round here, 538 00:28:41,780 --> 00:28:44,070 which were left over by the prospectors. 539 00:28:44,100 --> 00:28:46,750 Would you mind leaving the car? We've gotta go! 540 00:28:47,940 --> 00:28:50,510 Thanks. See you. See you. 541 00:28:53,300 --> 00:28:55,190 It's not something you see every day, is it? 542 00:28:55,220 --> 00:28:57,430 'And nor is this... 543 00:29:02,100 --> 00:29:03,790 'Welcome to Rhyolite... 544 00:29:05,740 --> 00:29:07,510 '..population - zero. 545 00:29:10,580 --> 00:29:14,990 'Well, one, if you include its caretaker, Karl Olson.' 546 00:29:16,860 --> 00:29:19,510 Hey, Karl. Hey. 547 00:29:19,540 --> 00:29:21,310 Nice to meet you. Nice to meet you too. 548 00:29:21,340 --> 00:29:23,870 This is my first ever ghost town. Really? Yeah, yeah! 549 00:29:23,900 --> 00:29:25,870 So, why is it here? It's in the middle of nowhere. 550 00:29:25,900 --> 00:29:29,550 It's in the middle of nowhere, but it's a special place. 551 00:29:29,580 --> 00:29:32,550 So, they discovered the gold here in 1904 552 00:29:32,580 --> 00:29:35,670 and took the gold up to Goldfield, had it analysed, 553 00:29:35,700 --> 00:29:37,670 it analysed really well. 554 00:29:37,700 --> 00:29:41,910 'The discovery sparked a gold rush, and almost overnight, 555 00:29:41,940 --> 00:29:45,510 'Rhyolite became a bustling mining town, 556 00:29:45,540 --> 00:29:49,150 'complete with water, electricity, and hundreds of buildings, 557 00:29:49,180 --> 00:29:51,470 'some of which still stand today.' 558 00:29:51,500 --> 00:29:53,710 Well, this was a train station. 559 00:29:53,740 --> 00:29:55,670 So, there were two railroads came into this town, 560 00:29:55,700 --> 00:29:57,350 and they competed for the freight. 561 00:29:57,380 --> 00:29:58,670 Ancl they built this, 562 00:29:58,700 --> 00:30:02,150 and it was one of the last buildings finished in Rhyolite, 1908. 563 00:30:02,180 --> 00:30:04,590 'In its heyday, Rhyolite was so big... 564 00:30:06,220 --> 00:30:09,390 ...there's only one way Karl and I can see all of it today. 565 00:30:13,500 --> 00:30:15,630 So, this is a very imposing building. 566 00:30:15,660 --> 00:30:16,990 Yeah, it was the bank building. 567 00:30:17,020 --> 00:30:20,350 The stock market was in there, there were offices in there. 568 00:30:20,380 --> 00:30:21,910 'At its peak in 1906, 569 00:30:21,940 --> 00:30:26,830 '$70,000 worth of gold was mined here each week. 570 00:30:26,860 --> 00:30:29,430 'In today's money, that's $2.3 million, 571 00:30:29,460 --> 00:30:31,830 'so this must have been a busy bank. 572 00:30:33,420 --> 00:30:36,190 'But the rich seams of gold in the hills around Rhyolite 573 00:30:36,220 --> 00:30:38,470 'soon began to peter out.' 574 00:30:40,220 --> 00:30:41,870 So, what's next? 575 00:30:41,900 --> 00:30:43,350 Well, I think we should go down here, 576 00:30:43,380 --> 00:30:45,510 and I'll show you one of the most important stores 577 00:30:45,540 --> 00:30:47,070 in the mining areas. How's that? 578 00:30:53,740 --> 00:30:55,590 Not really much of a store left now, is it? 579 00:30:55,620 --> 00:30:59,830 No, there's not much left, but that was quite the iconic store. 580 00:30:59,860 --> 00:31:02,070 But one of the interesting stories about these folks... 581 00:31:02,100 --> 00:31:04,270 They came from California, 582 00:31:04,300 --> 00:31:06,430 and they brought all the goods for this store, 583 00:31:06,460 --> 00:31:08,350 and they had it loaded in wagons. 584 00:31:08,380 --> 00:31:10,070 They bogged down in the dunes, 585 00:31:10,100 --> 00:31:12,310 they had to take it all out of the wagons, 586 00:31:12,340 --> 00:31:14,630 get the wagons across and then carry it all back 587 00:31:14,660 --> 00:31:16,830 and load it again to get up to here. Wow. 588 00:31:16,860 --> 00:31:19,310 And how many people were they looking after in the area? 589 00:31:19,340 --> 00:31:20,910 How big was this town at its biggest? 590 00:31:20,940 --> 00:31:23,750 At the biggest point, there were 10,000 people lived here. 591 00:31:23,780 --> 00:31:24,870 10,000?! 10,000. 592 00:31:24,900 --> 00:31:27,150 So this area was just booming. Yeah. 593 00:31:29,660 --> 00:31:32,470 Lead on, MacDuff. I will, sir. 594 00:31:32,500 --> 00:31:34,470 'As Karl shows me the sites... 595 00:31:34,500 --> 00:31:36,870 'the ruins of the red light district... 596 00:31:38,380 --> 00:31:40,470 '..the once bustling th ree-storey school... 597 00:31:41,860 --> 00:31:42,950 '..and the tiny jail... 598 00:31:45,180 --> 00:31:49,430 '..| get a real sense of the people who once lived and died here.' 599 00:31:52,500 --> 00:31:54,030 What was the most celebrated criminal 600 00:31:54,060 --> 00:31:56,550 and most known criminal that they locked up in here? 601 00:31:56,580 --> 00:32:00,070 Oh, the most known criminal, if you look out there in the desert, 602 00:32:00,100 --> 00:32:02,270 there's a grave out there. 603 00:32:02,300 --> 00:32:06,510 Ancl there was a prostitute, and her pimp shot her. 604 00:32:06,540 --> 00:32:11,990 Ancl when he murdered her, despite how rough the town was and all, 605 00:32:12,020 --> 00:32:15,270 they really didn't look favourably on anybody that killed anybody, 606 00:32:15,300 --> 00:32:17,830 especially women. Yeah. 607 00:32:17,860 --> 00:32:19,830 Ancl then they locked him up here. 608 00:32:19,860 --> 00:32:21,870 The town was gonna lynch him, 609 00:32:21,900 --> 00:32:24,750 so they had to move him from here to another prison for the trial. 610 00:32:24,780 --> 00:32:27,710 'Isabella was her name. 611 00:32:27,740 --> 00:32:30,350 'And visitors still, to this day, decorate her shrine 612 00:32:30,380 --> 00:32:31,750 'with shoes and jewellery.' 613 00:32:33,620 --> 00:32:36,790 I'm loving this, by the way. Oh, you enjoying it? I just... 614 00:32:36,820 --> 00:32:40,790 You look at the place, and you go... it's not very big, 615 00:32:40,820 --> 00:32:43,270 and then, like, 10,000, did you say? Yeah. 616 00:32:43,300 --> 00:32:46,550 When you read the old reports of this place... 617 00:32:46,580 --> 00:32:48,070 it was 24 hours. 618 00:32:48,100 --> 00:32:51,870 The huge mill was up in that cut there, and it worked night and clay. 619 00:32:51,900 --> 00:32:55,750 Ancl they said the whole town was deafening with the blasting. 620 00:32:55,780 --> 00:32:57,310 24 hours a day. Yes. 621 00:32:57,340 --> 00:32:59,830 What's this building down here? Oh, let's go down there. OK. 622 00:32:59,860 --> 00:33:01,030 Tell you when we get there. 623 00:33:02,380 --> 00:33:05,950 And Karl has saved the strangest building till last. 624 00:33:07,660 --> 00:33:09,790 Wow, this is fairly unusual. 625 00:33:09,820 --> 00:33:12,710 Yeah, this is the bottle house. 626 00:33:12,740 --> 00:33:16,150 It's one of the most photographed, iconic buildings in the state. 627 00:33:16,180 --> 00:33:18,750 I can see why it's called the bottle house. Right. 628 00:33:18,780 --> 00:33:23,630 Why? Well, when they came here, all the mining towns ended up using 629 00:33:23,660 --> 00:33:27,070 whatever was laying around the most to build homes. 630 00:33:27,100 --> 00:33:29,430 Bottles were really a favourite because what it did is, 631 00:33:29,460 --> 00:33:30,990 you put that in there, 632 00:33:31,020 --> 00:33:33,430 you had the insulating factor of the glass bottle, 633 00:33:33,460 --> 00:33:37,150 so the houses kept cool in the summer and warm in the winter. 634 00:33:38,860 --> 00:33:42,510 'This early form of recycling and insulation was way ahead of its time 635 00:33:42,540 --> 00:33:46,470 'and is now being revived as a green building technique.' 636 00:33:48,100 --> 00:33:50,830 You know, this is an extraordinary place. 637 00:33:50,860 --> 00:33:53,350 So, when did this town start? 1904. 638 00:33:53,380 --> 00:33:56,110 And when did it end? They were all gone by 1912. 639 00:33:56,140 --> 00:33:57,430 That's ridiculous. 640 00:33:57,460 --> 00:34:00,830 You were talking about 10,000 people but only for eight years? 641 00:34:00,860 --> 00:34:02,630 That's right. And it was gone. 642 00:34:03,700 --> 00:34:06,310 'Once the richest gold ore had been mined, 643 00:34:06,340 --> 00:34:09,470 'the town declined, and residents moved on. 644 00:34:09,500 --> 00:34:14,750 'Never again would Death Valley have such a large population. 645 00:34:14,780 --> 00:34:18,070 'I think if the lost '49ers who came looking for gold, 646 00:34:18,100 --> 00:34:21,310 'ironically, as they trudged across Bad water Basin, 647 00:34:21,340 --> 00:34:22,990 'it was there all the time... 648 00:34:23,020 --> 00:34:24,950 'right under their feet.' 649 00:34:29,860 --> 00:34:30,990 It's my last day tomorrow. 650 00:34:31,020 --> 00:34:34,030 And I can honestly say I'm gonna really miss Death Valley. 651 00:34:36,140 --> 00:34:38,070 Yeah. One more day. 652 00:34:38,100 --> 00:34:39,990 Still adventure to be had. 653 00:34:42,380 --> 00:34:45,270 'I'm about to uncover a masterpiece in the desert...' 654 00:34:46,900 --> 00:34:49,030 Wow, I was not expecting this. 655 00:34:49,060 --> 00:34:52,390 '..And channel my inner cowboy.' 656 00:34:52,420 --> 00:34:53,790 Yeah. All right. 657 00:34:58,380 --> 00:34:59,750 Yeeha. 658 00:35:08,220 --> 00:35:09,630 'It's my last day 659 00:35:09,660 --> 00:35:14,590 'in America's hottest and driest place, Death Valley. 660 00:35:16,540 --> 00:35:19,030 RADIO: 'This is KNPR and KNPR.org. 661 00:35:19,060 --> 00:35:21,910 'Overnight lows in the Death Valley area 662 00:35:21,940 --> 00:35:24,510 'are going to be very close to 100 degrees.' 663 00:35:28,780 --> 00:35:32,310 I'm on my way now to a place called Death Valley junction. 664 00:35:32,340 --> 00:35:34,070 And I'm off to the opera. 665 00:35:34,100 --> 00:35:36,430 Yes, that's what I said. There's an opera house there. 666 00:35:39,860 --> 00:35:43,430 'Death Valley junction, like Rhyolite, is a ghost town. 667 00:35:47,180 --> 00:35:51,910 'But to find out why on Earth an opera house is here... 668 00:35:51,940 --> 00:35:54,310 'I'm meeting the president of its board.' 669 00:35:57,660 --> 00:35:59,990 You must be Fred. You must be Nick. I am indeed. 670 00:36:00,020 --> 00:36:01,710 Great to meet you. Nice to meet you. 671 00:36:01,740 --> 00:36:03,910 Welcome. What is an opera house doing 672 00:36:03,940 --> 00:36:06,150 effectively in the middle of nowhere? 673 00:36:06,180 --> 00:36:07,830 There isn't even a town, really. 674 00:36:07,860 --> 00:36:11,030 Well, at one time, this was home to the Pacific Coast Borax Company, 675 00:36:11,060 --> 00:36:12,270 and this was a social hall... 676 00:36:12,300 --> 00:36:15,110 OK. ..where they had funerals and weddings. 677 00:36:15,140 --> 00:36:16,670 Ancl it was later transformed 678 00:36:16,700 --> 00:36:20,190 into the amazing opera house that it has become today. 679 00:36:20,220 --> 00:36:22,670 By who? Marta Becket. 680 00:36:24,220 --> 00:36:27,950 'Marta was a New York ballerina and Broadway dancer. 681 00:36:27,980 --> 00:36:31,710 'In her 40s, she toured the country with a one-woman show, 682 00:36:31,740 --> 00:36:35,870 'when one fateful day, she stumbled upon the social hall.' 683 00:36:38,300 --> 00:36:41,590 Ancl she had been travelling through the Midwest for nine years, 684 00:36:41,620 --> 00:36:47,190 but she discovered this town when she had a flat tyre in 1967. 685 00:36:47,220 --> 00:36:50,110 And she had this wonderful revelation 686 00:36:50,140 --> 00:36:52,430 that this was the place where she would like to come 687 00:36:52,460 --> 00:36:54,030 and stay and create. 688 00:36:54,060 --> 00:36:57,590 'The day after her flat tyre, Marta leased the hall, 689 00:36:57,620 --> 00:36:59,790 'renamed it Amargosa, 690 00:36:59,820 --> 00:37:03,830 'and set about transforming this crumbling building.' 691 00:37:03,860 --> 00:37:05,990 Well, I can't wait to see it, can we go and have a look? 692 00:37:06,020 --> 00:37:07,550 Let's look at the opera house. 693 00:37:11,860 --> 00:37:13,270 Well, I was not expecting this. 694 00:37:16,540 --> 00:37:18,350 Are you telling me that this place was bare 695 00:37:18,380 --> 00:37:20,110 before Marta got her hands on it? 696 00:37:20,140 --> 00:37:23,470 This was like a blank canvas when Marta first discovered it. 697 00:37:23,500 --> 00:37:26,830 'Marta spent six years single-handedly painting 698 00:37:26,860 --> 00:37:30,190 'the ceilings and walls of this auditorium.' 699 00:37:30,220 --> 00:37:34,670 She only came down the scaffold to turn over a record album 700 00:37:34,700 --> 00:37:36,190 to hear the other side. 701 00:37:36,220 --> 00:37:39,030 Do you know what it was that she was listening to? Puccini. 702 00:37:39,060 --> 00:37:42,350 'And while some of the characters she painted are imaginary, 703 00:37:42,380 --> 00:37:46,110 'many come from real life, including her cats.' 704 00:37:46,140 --> 00:37:48,430 There's Tuxedo. Right. 705 00:37:48,460 --> 00:37:52,070 Ancl then in the other corner over here is Rhubarb. 706 00:37:52,100 --> 00:37:54,750 'And the local prostitutes.' 707 00:37:54,780 --> 00:37:57,230 {\i1}And back when she first opened the opera house{\i0} 708 00:37:57,260 --> 00:37:59,550 and was trying to build an audience, 709 00:37:59,580 --> 00:38:02,550 she was blessed to have the women from the bordello 710 00:38:02,580 --> 00:38:05,030 come and enjoy her performances. 711 00:38:05,060 --> 00:38:08,830 'And it was on this stage that Marta was most at home.' 712 00:38:11,100 --> 00:38:12,950 Can we have a look on the stage? Yeah, yeah. 713 00:38:12,980 --> 00:38:15,630 Are we allowed to walk up? Can we go up together? Yes. 714 00:38:17,580 --> 00:38:20,950 Why do you think she painted this audience in front of her? 715 00:38:20,980 --> 00:38:24,430 Well, the truth of the matter is, when she first opened the theatre, 716 00:38:24,460 --> 00:38:27,750 this was a very sparsely populated area of the desert. 717 00:38:27,780 --> 00:38:31,430 {\i1}And what she wanted to do was have some company,{\i0} 718 00:38:31,460 --> 00:38:33,710 and so she painted an imaginary audience, 719 00:38:33,740 --> 00:38:37,990 so she would always have an audience to perform to. 720 00:38:39,940 --> 00:38:43,110 'Marta would dance and sing three nights a week, 721 00:38:43,140 --> 00:38:44,510 'sometimes the classics, 722 00:38:44,540 --> 00:38:47,910 'sometimes producing her own scripts and choreographies. 723 00:38:47,940 --> 00:38:51,230 'And finally, her persistence paid off.' 724 00:38:52,820 --> 00:38:55,390 There was an article in National Geographic 725 00:38:55,420 --> 00:38:57,750 published in 1970, it basically said, 726 00:38:57,780 --> 00:39:01,190 "Wow, that's a marvellous thing. 727 00:39:01,220 --> 00:39:03,870 "An artist from New York who decides come out 728 00:39:03,900 --> 00:39:07,870 "and paint a social hall with amazing Renaissance-inspired murals, 729 00:39:07,900 --> 00:39:10,630 "and live out here." Ancl after that... 730 00:39:10,660 --> 00:39:12,470 The world came to see it? Yes. 731 00:39:12,500 --> 00:39:16,390 'Marta Becket finally found a real-life audience 732 00:39:16,420 --> 00:39:19,750 'and put Death Valley junction back on the map. 733 00:39:23,340 --> 00:39:27,270 'Marta died in 2017, aged 92. 734 00:39:27,300 --> 00:39:29,710 'But her masterpiece lives on. 735 00:39:29,740 --> 00:39:34,230 'At weekends, you can sometimes still catch performances here, 736 00:39:34,260 --> 00:39:38,190 'bringing life to this otherwise abandoned ghost town.' 737 00:39:47,380 --> 00:39:49,550 It's just... It's nuts, isn't it? 738 00:39:49,580 --> 00:39:52,710 To find an opera house in the middle of the desert. 739 00:39:52,740 --> 00:39:54,750 It's an amazing place, though, don't you think? 740 00:39:54,780 --> 00:39:57,350 And Marta, what a character she must have been. 741 00:40:00,420 --> 00:40:02,310 'My final stop takes me 742 00:40:02,340 --> 00:40:06,150 'back to the heart of the valley - Furnace Creek.' 743 00:40:07,940 --> 00:40:10,590 My journey's coming to an end, and in my time in Death Valley, 744 00:40:10,620 --> 00:40:13,190 I've seen lots of ways that you can travel around, 745 00:40:13,220 --> 00:40:14,710 but I haven't had a go at this yet. 746 00:40:14,740 --> 00:40:17,590 And if you come out west, you have to ride a horse, don't you? 747 00:40:17,620 --> 00:40:19,630 'At dawn or dusk, 748 00:40:19,660 --> 00:40:22,870 'and preferably not at the hottest time of year, 749 00:40:22,900 --> 00:40:24,150 'you can hitch a ride 750 00:40:24,180 --> 00:40:27,230 'on Death Valley's traditional transport system. 751 00:40:28,980 --> 00:40:31,670 'Choosing me the ideal steed...' HORSE NICKERS 752 00:40:31,700 --> 00:40:33,870 '..is guide Gabby Velez.' 753 00:40:35,940 --> 00:40:39,070 Hello. Nice to meet you, Nick. Nice to meet you. 754 00:40:39,100 --> 00:40:40,510 So, which horse am I riding? 755 00:40:40,540 --> 00:40:42,710 You're gonna be riding Rocket over here. 756 00:40:42,740 --> 00:40:45,950 OK, let's go have a look at him. All right. 757 00:40:45,980 --> 00:40:48,150 So, we're gonna walk super wide around his butt, 758 00:40:48,180 --> 00:40:50,350 so we don't get kicked, that would not be fun. 759 00:40:50,380 --> 00:40:53,990 We reach under, kind of put that through. 760 00:40:54,020 --> 00:40:56,590 What's the benefit of going out on a horse to see Death Valley, 761 00:40:56,620 --> 00:40:59,230 as opposed to walking? Why is it better than walking? 762 00:40:59,260 --> 00:41:00,750 I think it's better than walking, 763 00:41:00,780 --> 00:41:02,910 because you can really take it all in. 764 00:41:02,940 --> 00:41:04,230 The horse is doing all the work. 765 00:41:04,260 --> 00:41:06,750 Ancl you can look at everything else, it doesn't really matter. 766 00:41:06,780 --> 00:41:07,990 50. we can get going? 767 00:41:08,020 --> 00:41:10,470 Yeah, we're gonna hop up on this block right here. 768 00:41:10,500 --> 00:41:12,630 It'll make it a little easier to get on him. Oh, OK. 769 00:41:13,820 --> 00:41:17,990 I'm about to get on a horse in the Wild West. He-he! 770 00:41:20,220 --> 00:41:22,070 Perfect. HE EXHALES 771 00:41:22,100 --> 00:41:24,350 Ooh, get my foot in properly. 772 00:41:25,620 --> 00:41:27,110 We're gonna come over here. 773 00:41:28,660 --> 00:41:32,030 So, listen, Rocket, you don't have to live up to your name, OK? 774 00:41:32,060 --> 00:41:34,790 And I may or may not have a cube of sugar in my pocket 775 00:41:34,820 --> 00:41:37,510 at the end if we work well together. 776 00:41:37,540 --> 00:41:40,110 All right. Feeling good? 777 00:41:40,140 --> 00:41:43,670 Ready to be a cowboy and take off? Yeah. 778 00:41:43,700 --> 00:41:47,190 'And just like that, we're ready to mosey on out.' 779 00:41:49,260 --> 00:41:51,750 All right. Simple things, sit up nice and tall. 780 00:41:51,780 --> 00:41:54,790 Pull straight back to stop, kick to go. 781 00:41:54,820 --> 00:41:57,270 Left is left, and right is right. 782 00:41:58,940 --> 00:42:01,750 There you are, left we go. Go on, good lad. 783 00:42:01,780 --> 00:42:03,710 That's it, go on. Thank you. 784 00:42:07,540 --> 00:42:09,750 What a great place to ride. Oh, yeah. 785 00:42:11,860 --> 00:42:16,070 'As the sun sets over the Panamint Mountains, 786 00:42:16,100 --> 00:42:18,430 'which offered one of the routes out of Death Valley 787 00:42:18,460 --> 00:42:22,750 'for those Lost 49ers, I'm thinking of them.' 788 00:42:22,780 --> 00:42:25,390 The first pioneers that crossed here 789 00:42:25,420 --> 00:42:28,230 were in a sad and sorry state when they got the other side. 790 00:42:29,820 --> 00:42:31,630 And they couldn't wait to see the back of it. 791 00:42:31,660 --> 00:42:34,550 I'm sad myself, saying goodbye to Death Valley, 792 00:42:34,580 --> 00:42:37,190 but for completely opposite reasons, I've absolutely loved it. 793 00:42:37,220 --> 00:42:39,230 'After two weeks here, 794 00:42:39,260 --> 00:42:42,150 'I've experienced the crushing heat for myself...' 795 00:42:44,020 --> 00:42:45,750 Thank you very much. 796 00:42:45,780 --> 00:42:47,470 '..Iearnt how to stay safe...' 797 00:42:47,500 --> 00:42:51,150 If you can't walk around, well, your hike's over for the clay. 798 00:42:51,180 --> 00:42:54,310 '..And seen how life can flourish.' 799 00:42:54,340 --> 00:42:55,630 Wow. 800 00:42:55,660 --> 00:42:59,870 '..Even in this most extreme of landscapes.' 801 00:42:59,900 --> 00:43:01,510 I've really loved it. 802 00:43:01,540 --> 00:43:04,270 And now I get to ride off into the sunset. 803 00:43:04,300 --> 00:43:06,270 Come on, then. 804 00:43:09,500 --> 00:43:11,630 Giddy-UP! 62386

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