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Winter in Antarctica.
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The temperature has dropped
to minus 70 degrees centigrade,
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and winds of 120 miles an hour
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blow across the desolate icescape.
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00:01:21,120 --> 00:01:24,840
The centre of Antarctica
is in continuous darkness.
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Only its fringes see the bleak winter light.
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The sea freezes over for hundreds of miles,
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effectively doubling the size of the continent.
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In winter, the Antarctic is a very lonely place.
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As the temperature plummets
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and the sea ice forms,
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most of the wildlife that came down here
to take advantage of the brief summer season
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is forced to retreat north again.
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Practically nothing stays.
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To survive in the deep south
at its most bitterly hostile
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requires a very special animal
with very special adaptations.
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Such a creature is the Weddell seal.
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No other mammal lives throughout the year
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as far south as this.
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These seals
are just 800 miles from the pole,
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and they stay here winter and summer.
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Like all Antarctic seals,
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they have a thick layer of blubber
to insulate them from the cold.
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But the real key
to their success in surviving here
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is their ability to keep open holes in the ice
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so that they have
access to the sea the year round.
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These holes are the only things
that break the white monotony
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over hundreds of square miles of sea ice.
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The seals, with no escape to the open ocean,
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are forced to stay near the holes.
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Each is a gateway
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to and from the underwater world
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in which the seals hunt and find shelter.
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Underwater, the temperature
never drops below minus 1.8 degrees.
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The seals retreat down here
during the worst winter storms
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and so keep comparatively warm.
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00:03:22,440 --> 00:03:24,640
When you dive beneath the ice,
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you enter, within seconds,
a totally different world.
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Here, within a foot or so
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of the gale-swept,
savagely cold wilderness above,
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illuminated only by the dim blue
light filtering through the ice,
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there is stability, peace,
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and an eerie, unforgettable beauty.
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Animals need special adaptations
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to live in water that is below zero centigrade.
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Most fish would explode
if they touched this glacier wall.
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Crystals would immediately form in their cells.
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These survive because their tissues
are loaded with anti-freeze.
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Life beneath the ice,
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00:04:51,200 --> 00:04:53,320
compared with the white desert above,
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is extraordinarily rich.
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There are all kinds of invertebrates,
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including giant jellyfish.
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It's a very sheltered place,
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for the permanent sea ice overhead
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provides year-round protection
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from waves and storms.
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But food is scarce,
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and many of these creatures
have become scavengers.
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00:05:41,560 --> 00:05:45,600
These starfish make a meal of seal faeces.
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00:05:49,560 --> 00:05:54,400
Weddell seals can dive
to 750 metres, possibly more,
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in search of food.
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At these depths, in permanent darkness,
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they encounter a world
dominated by stalk sponges.
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00:06:06,040 --> 00:06:08,960
Growing extremely slowly in the cold,
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the Antarctic invertebrates become giants.
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Returning from depths
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where a human would be crushed,
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seals surface suffering none
of the effects of deep diving
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that can cripple human swimmers.
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00:06:39,440 --> 00:06:41,840
October in the far south.
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Female Weddell seals haul out
on the sea ice to give birth.
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Imagine the shock of leaving a womb
at plus 37 degrees centigrade
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and being dropped on the ice
into a world of minus 20.
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The pup has to suckle
and build a layer of blubber
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as fast as possible.
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It usually doubles its weight in ten days,
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for Weddell milk is 60% fat,
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one of the richest produced by any mammal.
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Remarkably, after one week,
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the pup is ready for a swim.
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(MOTHER LOWS TO HER PUP)
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The mother is anxious to get her pup
accustomed to the water
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before the weather deteriorates.
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At this time, more than any other,
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breathing holes are jealously guarded.
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00:09:02,040 --> 00:09:04,960
Weddells have an especially wide gape
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and long canine and incisor teeth,
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which enable them to scrape away the ice
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that is constantly forming
and threatens to close their breathing holes.
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00:09:14,880 --> 00:09:18,480
Their teeth aren't impervious
to this wear and tear
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00:09:18,560 --> 00:09:20,760
and are gradually worn down,
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so that eventually the seal can't eat.
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00:09:23,320 --> 00:09:27,400
As a consequence,
Weddells die at about 20 years,
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half the age of other Antarctic seals.
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00:09:31,440 --> 00:09:34,360
A male defends an underwater territory
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and mates with all the females
that use his breathing holes.
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It's an effective way of acquiring a harem,
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because females must have
a refuge below the ice
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from the extremes of the winter weather.
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00:09:50,160 --> 00:09:52,520
It might seem that there could not be
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a more harsh existence than this,
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but the environment here
is comparatively constant
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00:09:57,680 --> 00:10:00,360
and these seals are adapted to it -
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protected by a coat of dense hair
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and insulated by blubber
immediately beneath the skin.
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00:10:07,480 --> 00:10:12,240
Indeed, Weddells do far better
than most other seals.
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If they are sufficiently fattened
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in the six weeks before they wean,
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95% of pups will survive.
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00:10:25,720 --> 00:10:29,160
These seals,
the most southerly in the world,
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live in the shadow
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of the largest active volcano
in Antarctica - Mount Erebus.
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00:10:40,040 --> 00:10:42,920
Erebus is a mountain of extremes.
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00:10:43,000 --> 00:10:48,480
In the crater, molten lava bubbles
away at 600 degrees centigrade,
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and yet, on the summit,
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temperatures rarely rise
above minus 45 degrees.
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Even here, there is life.
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00:10:56,800 --> 00:10:59,320
The heat of the volcano produces steam
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00:10:59,400 --> 00:11:02,480
that rises to the rim
and melts the snow and ice,
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leaving bare patches of rock -
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00:11:04,240 --> 00:11:07,440
home to heat-loving bacteria and algae.
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00:11:07,520 --> 00:11:09,760
Another extraordinary example
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of how life can survive in the most
extreme conditions on Earth.
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00:11:30,000 --> 00:11:31,880
Behind Mount Erebus,
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00:11:32,040 --> 00:11:35,480
the trans-Antarctic mountains
stretch in a long broad band.
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00:11:36,440 --> 00:11:39,480
They are the most extensive range
on the continent,
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running for some 2,000 miles
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00:11:41,600 --> 00:11:45,160
and separating
the great east and west ice caps.
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00:11:49,680 --> 00:11:53,560
Although many of the peaks
are over 4,000 metres high,
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most of the range is blanketed
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by vast glaciers which fill the valleys.
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00:12:16,200 --> 00:12:19,280
Hidden among the trans-Antarctic mountains
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00:12:19,360 --> 00:12:22,080
is one of the continent's greatest surprises -
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00:12:22,160 --> 00:12:23,760
the dry valleys.
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00:12:23,840 --> 00:12:29,040
Here is the largest area
of bare rock in Antarctica.
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00:12:30,240 --> 00:12:33,960
It's so arid
that falling snow soon evaporates
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00:12:34,040 --> 00:12:35,840
and never builds up.
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00:12:37,200 --> 00:12:39,920
The valley below me is the driest place on Earth.
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00:12:40,000 --> 00:12:42,680
It hasn't snowed or rained here for centuries.
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00:12:42,760 --> 00:12:46,760
In winter, the temperature falls
to minus 52 degrees centigrade
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00:12:46,840 --> 00:12:50,360
and the ground is permanently frozen
to a depth of half a mile.
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00:12:50,520 --> 00:12:53,200
Conditions are so extreme
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00:12:53,280 --> 00:12:58,440
that when scientists came to design
a vehicle to work on the surface of Mars,
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00:12:58,520 --> 00:13:01,280
they brought it to this valley
in order to test it.
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00:13:01,360 --> 00:13:05,240
A clue to the factor
that creates these conditions
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lies in the extraordinary shape
of these boulders.
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Although they are solid granite,
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they have been carved by savage winds
that scream down off the ice cap.
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00:13:18,280 --> 00:13:21,840
These winds are so dry
that they instantly absorb
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any moisture in the air,
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and by doing so desiccate
and preserve organic tissues.
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00:13:27,440 --> 00:13:32,440
This mummified crabeater seal,
70 miles from the sea,
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has probably been lying here
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for 3,000 years or more.
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You might suppose
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that a place that can freeze-dry
seals' bodies for centuries
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would be totally without life.
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But even in these extreme conditions,
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life does exist.
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Pick the right sort of rock -
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this is a light porous sandstone -
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give it a hit...
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...and there, a millimetre
beneath the surface,
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within the actual fabric of the rock,
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00:14:10,000 --> 00:14:13,360
a band of green, the colour of life.
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00:14:14,200 --> 00:14:18,240
It is lichen that has managed
to penetrate and colonise
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the microscopic spaces between
the grains of the porous rock.
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It's the only place where it can survive
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00:14:24,600 --> 00:14:26,960
in these arid, desert-like conditions.
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00:14:30,160 --> 00:14:32,000
Above the dry valleys,
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held back by the trans-Antarctic mountains,
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stretches the ice cap itself.
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00:14:37,480 --> 00:14:40,080
This is the Antarctic plateau,
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3,000 metres high.
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00:14:50,600 --> 00:14:56,400
There can be no more forbidding,
hostile, desolate places to be
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than up here on the Antarctic plateau.
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00:14:59,760 --> 00:15:04,240
It's not just that human life
here seems insignificant -
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it seems totally irrelevant.
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00:15:08,120 --> 00:15:13,080
A few spots of lichens
may grow on boulders
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to within 200 miles of the South Pole,
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and, in the summer,
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maybe one or two
particularly adventurous snow petrels
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will come up here to try and nest.
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But come the winter,
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absolutely nothing living
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00:15:30,800 --> 00:15:34,920
moves up here on the Antarctic plateau.
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Even in summer, it is always winter here,
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with temperatures averaging minus 30.
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1.5 times the size of Australia,
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this is the largest area
of lifeless wilderness in the world.
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Snow petrels,
brief visitors here in summer,
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are forced to spend the winter
hundreds of miles
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to the warmer north,
at the edge of the frozen sea.
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00:16:09,320 --> 00:16:12,840
This is the frontier
between life in the ocean
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and a desert of ice
where almost no animals dare go.
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00:16:16,520 --> 00:16:19,160
But one creature has to cross it -
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the Emperor penguin.
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00:16:32,960 --> 00:16:37,160
In May, when the freezing waters
and cold winter temperatures
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00:16:37,240 --> 00:16:40,840
force other animals
to retreat to the warmer north,
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00:16:40,920 --> 00:16:44,120
Emperor penguins head south.
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00:16:56,240 --> 00:17:00,520
They make their way to a number
of traditional nesting sites.
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00:17:00,600 --> 00:17:05,000
In this one alone, there may be 25,000 birds.
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00:17:08,560 --> 00:17:10,960
Emperors are unique.
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00:17:11,040 --> 00:17:14,760
They are the only birds
to lay their eggs directly on ice.
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00:17:26,680 --> 00:17:30,720
Just hours after the female
has produced her single egg,
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the male takes it over.
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00:17:33,080 --> 00:17:34,800
The transfer has to be quick
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00:17:34,880 --> 00:17:37,160
if the egg is not to freeze.
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00:17:39,560 --> 00:17:41,760
The male manoeuvres it
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into a brood pouch lined with blood vessels
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00:17:44,680 --> 00:17:48,480
that keep the egg 80 degrees
warmer than the outside temperature.
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00:17:48,560 --> 00:17:51,080
There, under a flap of skin,
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00:17:51,160 --> 00:17:53,480
it's sealed away for the winter.
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00:17:58,840 --> 00:18:01,760
When the egg is safely
inside the male's pouch,
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00:18:01,840 --> 00:18:03,840
the females are free to go,
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00:18:03,920 --> 00:18:08,240
and they start the long trek back
across the sea ice, to the open ocean,
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00:18:08,320 --> 00:18:12,480
leaving their partners to face
the coldest conditions on Earth.
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00:18:29,760 --> 00:18:32,600
With temperatures of 70 below,
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00:18:32,680 --> 00:18:34,400
and in terrible storms,
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00:18:34,480 --> 00:18:37,320
the penguins huddle tightly together for warmth.
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00:18:37,400 --> 00:18:41,040
No other adult penguins
are so tolerant of one another,
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00:18:41,120 --> 00:18:44,480
but for Emperors this is the key to survival.
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00:18:50,280 --> 00:18:52,520
The co-operation is not random.
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00:18:52,680 --> 00:18:55,960
Those most exposed on the windward side
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00:18:56,040 --> 00:18:59,800
move around the huddle
to the more sheltered side.
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00:18:59,880 --> 00:19:03,880
So every bird gets a fair share
of the warmth in the middle
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00:19:03,960 --> 00:19:09,720
and takes its turn in enduring
the brunt of the Antarctic weather.
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00:19:20,200 --> 00:19:22,400
As midwinter approaches,
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the sun disappears below the horizon
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00:19:25,000 --> 00:19:26,720
for the last time this season.
232
00:19:26,800 --> 00:19:30,600
A month of total darkness lies ahead.
233
00:19:38,600 --> 00:19:41,520
Above the huddle, the Southern Lights -
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00:19:41,600 --> 00:19:43,440
the Aurora Australis -
235
00:19:43,520 --> 00:19:45,760
blaze across the winter sky.
236
00:19:47,400 --> 00:19:50,600
These spectacular displays occur
237
00:19:50,680 --> 00:19:53,400
as subatomic particles,
travelling through space,
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00:19:53,560 --> 00:19:56,160
enter the Earth's magnetic field.
239
00:20:17,440 --> 00:20:21,000
As winter recedes,
the huddles begin to break up,
240
00:20:21,080 --> 00:20:25,360
and heat that was trapped
within them for so long escapes.
241
00:20:25,440 --> 00:20:30,080
These males,
who have not eaten for 115 days,
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00:20:30,160 --> 00:20:33,000
are close to death by starvation.
243
00:20:35,320 --> 00:20:38,320
(SQUAWKING)
244
00:20:46,960 --> 00:20:50,160
As the sun returns
to the southern hemisphere,
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00:20:50,320 --> 00:20:51,720
the female Emperors,
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00:20:51,800 --> 00:20:54,720
sleek and fat from months of feeding at sea,
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00:20:54,800 --> 00:20:57,000
begin the long march back to the rookery.
248
00:20:57,720 --> 00:21:00,920
The sea ice is now at its fullest extent,
249
00:21:01,000 --> 00:21:04,400
and they may have to walk 100 miles
to reach their colony.
250
00:21:14,440 --> 00:21:16,760
By now the eggs have hatched
251
00:21:16,920 --> 00:21:20,080
and the tiny chicks
are awaiting their first feed.
252
00:21:22,480 --> 00:21:24,760
Each female times her return
253
00:21:24,840 --> 00:21:27,240
to coincide with the hatching of her chick.
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00:21:27,320 --> 00:21:29,560
A male, having starved for so long,
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00:21:29,720 --> 00:21:31,880
can give the chick only one meal -
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00:21:32,040 --> 00:21:35,240
no more than a milky secretion
from his gut wall.
257
00:21:35,320 --> 00:21:37,120
If his partner doesn't return
258
00:21:37,200 --> 00:21:39,160
within ten days of the chick hatching,
259
00:21:39,240 --> 00:21:43,920
he will have to abandon it and head
to the sea to find food for himself.
260
00:21:52,680 --> 00:21:55,440
(TREMENDOUS DIN)
261
00:21:58,800 --> 00:22:01,280
It's a noisy time in the colony.
262
00:22:01,360 --> 00:22:04,240
The courtship calling
that took place before winter
263
00:22:04,320 --> 00:22:06,240
now brings its reward.
264
00:22:06,360 --> 00:22:08,800
After a separation of over three months,
265
00:22:08,880 --> 00:22:12,240
a bird can still recognise its partner's call.
266
00:22:15,200 --> 00:22:17,840
(VARl0US CALLS)
267
00:22:30,000 --> 00:22:31,480
When they find one another,
268
00:22:31,560 --> 00:22:34,520
the pair perform their greeting ritual
269
00:22:34,600 --> 00:22:38,240
to ensure there hasn't been
a case of mistaken identity.
270
00:22:38,320 --> 00:22:42,160
Then the female gives their chick
its first proper meal -
271
00:22:42,240 --> 00:22:44,200
half-digested fish.
272
00:22:53,880 --> 00:22:56,760
She's very eager to take charge of the chick,
273
00:22:56,840 --> 00:23:01,160
but the male, having cared for it
for so long, is reluctant to give it up.
274
00:23:01,240 --> 00:23:05,400
She has literally to push him back
to get him to release it.
275
00:23:14,080 --> 00:23:18,120
The transfer is a tricky manoeuvre
that must be done fast.
276
00:23:18,200 --> 00:23:22,000
A chick left on the ice
for only two minutes will die.
277
00:23:46,760 --> 00:23:50,040
The males, after their four-month ordeal,
278
00:23:50,120 --> 00:23:53,560
near to starvation and desperate to feed,
279
00:23:53,720 --> 00:23:57,200
have to walk 100 miles or so
back to the open sea.
280
00:24:00,320 --> 00:24:03,120
Mothers and chicks spend the next few weeks
281
00:24:03,200 --> 00:24:05,160
learning each other's call
282
00:24:05,240 --> 00:24:07,000
and establishing a strong bond
283
00:24:07,080 --> 00:24:10,080
that ensures they will recognise
one another in the months ahead
284
00:24:10,160 --> 00:24:13,400
when she returns from feeding trips.
285
00:24:23,080 --> 00:24:26,960
It's early spring
and the weather is still variable.
286
00:24:28,240 --> 00:24:31,120
(HOWLING GALE)
287
00:24:36,200 --> 00:24:38,760
Severe storms are a real threat
288
00:24:38,840 --> 00:24:40,480
to the chick's survival.
289
00:24:40,560 --> 00:24:43,840
An abandoned one seeks shelter
from passing adults.
290
00:24:43,920 --> 00:24:46,000
One of them seems interested,
291
00:24:46,080 --> 00:24:50,040
but the vital bond between
parent and chick isn't there
292
00:24:50,120 --> 00:24:53,440
and eventually the adult walks off.
293
00:24:57,600 --> 00:25:01,760
In fact, the adults do have
a strong instinct to protect chicks.
294
00:25:01,840 --> 00:25:04,800
So much so that birds
that have not managed to breed
295
00:25:04,880 --> 00:25:08,240
will try to take possession
of a stray or abandoned chick.
296
00:25:08,320 --> 00:25:10,760
But this fostering never succeeds
297
00:25:10,840 --> 00:25:15,040
because the adult has no partner
to help in rearing the waif.
298
00:25:40,760 --> 00:25:44,080
These desperate unpartnered penguins
299
00:25:44,160 --> 00:25:46,120
will sometimes fight over a chick
300
00:25:46,200 --> 00:25:48,040
and crush it to death.
301
00:26:03,040 --> 00:26:05,680
Mortality is high.
302
00:26:05,760 --> 00:26:07,600
Many eggs don't hatch,
303
00:26:07,680 --> 00:26:12,000
and of those that do,
25% die in the first few months.
304
00:26:12,280 --> 00:26:15,760
Those that survive
have to grow fast and fledge
305
00:26:15,840 --> 00:26:19,240
before the sea ice on which they live
breaks up beneath them.
306
00:26:41,160 --> 00:26:44,640
These chicks take five months to rear.
307
00:26:44,720 --> 00:26:48,400
Only by incubating the eggs
through the harsh winter,
308
00:26:48,480 --> 00:26:51,680
so that the chicks hatch
at the very beginning of the short summer,
309
00:26:51,760 --> 00:26:55,080
is it possible for the Emperors
to breed every year.
310
00:26:56,880 --> 00:27:00,680
It was to collect
an Emperor penguin's egg like this
311
00:27:00,840 --> 00:27:04,040
that men made the first-ever land journey
312
00:27:04,120 --> 00:27:07,440
in the bitter cold darkness
of the Antarctic winter.
313
00:27:07,520 --> 00:27:11,400
Bill Wilson, the naturalist
on Captain Scott's expedition,
314
00:27:11,480 --> 00:27:14,720
was fascinated
by the evolutionary origin of birds
315
00:27:14,800 --> 00:27:18,560
and was convinced
that the embryo in an egg like this
316
00:27:18,640 --> 00:27:21,440
would provide conclusive evidence of the link
317
00:27:21,520 --> 00:27:25,200
between the feathers of birds
and the scales of reptiles.
318
00:27:25,280 --> 00:27:29,160
So, on 12 June, 1911,
in the middle of winter,
319
00:27:29,360 --> 00:27:31,560
he and two companions
320
00:27:31,640 --> 00:27:36,080
left Captain Scott's hut here on Cape Evans
321
00:27:36,280 --> 00:27:40,760
and set out for the Emperor penguin colony
on the other side of Mount Erebus,
322
00:27:40,840 --> 00:27:42,520
65 miles away.
323
00:27:42,640 --> 00:27:46,640
It was a trip
that became known with some justice
324
00:27:46,720 --> 00:27:49,440
as the worst journey in the world.
325
00:27:50,320 --> 00:27:52,280
The weather was abominable.
326
00:27:52,360 --> 00:27:54,560
Their clothes and harnesses froze solid
327
00:27:54,640 --> 00:27:56,960
and all three suffered terrible frostbite
328
00:27:57,040 --> 00:28:00,560
as they hauled their sledges
over heavily-crevassed terrain.
329
00:28:00,640 --> 00:28:04,760
On the return journey, they lost
their tent in a violent storm.
330
00:28:04,840 --> 00:28:09,720
By a miracle, they found it again
and made it back to the hut alive.
331
00:28:10,280 --> 00:28:14,800
They brought back three eggs
and three Emperor penguin skins,
332
00:28:15,000 --> 00:28:17,080
one of which is still here in Scott's hut,
333
00:28:17,160 --> 00:28:19,160
preserved by the Antarctic cold.
334
00:28:19,760 --> 00:28:24,200
Although the connection between
birds and reptiles is no longer in doubt,
335
00:28:24,320 --> 00:28:28,000
the eggs did not provide the evidence
that Wilson thought they would.
336
00:28:28,080 --> 00:28:32,400
Even so, the journey remains
one of the great epic stories
337
00:28:32,480 --> 00:28:34,640
in the annals of polar exploration.
338
00:28:34,720 --> 00:28:36,720
In the next programme,
339
00:28:36,800 --> 00:28:40,040
we'll look at the history
of Antarctic exploration in more detail
340
00:28:40,120 --> 00:28:44,720
and also see how people today
survive life in the freezer.
341
00:28:44,770 --> 00:28:49,320
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