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The pounding surf
of the great southern ocean
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00:01:09,720 --> 00:01:12,440
beating on the rocks of South Georgia.
3
00:01:12,520 --> 00:01:15,760
Few creatures, you might think,
could survive it.
4
00:01:15,840 --> 00:01:19,600
But Macaroni penguins
are desperate to get ashore.
5
00:01:35,080 --> 00:01:37,960
Their flippers are of little help out of water.
6
00:01:38,040 --> 00:01:41,160
All they have to give them
a grip on these slippery rocks
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00:01:41,240 --> 00:01:43,920
are small claws on their feet.
8
00:02:01,280 --> 00:02:03,600
Now, at the end of summer,
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00:02:03,680 --> 00:02:06,240
life is becoming increasingly difficult
10
00:02:06,320 --> 00:02:10,320
for these Macaroni penguins
struggling to feed their chicks,
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00:02:10,400 --> 00:02:14,000
that are almost fully grown
and have massive appetites.
12
00:02:14,080 --> 00:02:18,080
With the approach of autumn,
the weather will worsen.
13
00:02:18,160 --> 00:02:22,560
Massive depressions rush around
the fringes of the Antarctic continent,
14
00:02:22,640 --> 00:02:27,000
creating huge gales
with gusts of over 100 miles an hour
15
00:02:27,080 --> 00:02:29,440
and lash the sea into a frenzy.
16
00:02:29,600 --> 00:02:33,440
Before long, the temperatures
will drop to below freezing
17
00:02:33,520 --> 00:02:36,600
and then all the wildlife
of Antartica will be engaged
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00:02:36,680 --> 00:02:39,880
in a desperate race to complete breeding
19
00:02:39,960 --> 00:02:42,480
before the ice closes everything down.
20
00:02:47,800 --> 00:02:51,680
In the deep south, the sea
has stayed frozen all summer.
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00:02:51,760 --> 00:02:55,080
Penguins here
face an even greater challenge,
22
00:02:55,240 --> 00:02:58,520
for this is where the door closes first.
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00:02:58,600 --> 00:03:04,080
Here at Cape Royds,
I'm 1,400 miles closer to the pole,
24
00:03:04,160 --> 00:03:05,840
and this Adelie colony
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00:03:05,920 --> 00:03:10,520
is the most southerly nesting group
of any penguins anywhere.
26
00:03:10,600 --> 00:03:13,280
The summer here is very short indeed
27
00:03:13,360 --> 00:03:17,600
and these penguins have to breed
very swiftly to be successful.
28
00:03:17,680 --> 00:03:20,520
They're well ahead
of the Macaronis up in the north
29
00:03:20,680 --> 00:03:23,920
and the chicks are already losing their down.
30
00:03:25,880 --> 00:03:30,480
Beneath the woolly coat lies
the waterproof layer of feathers
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00:03:30,560 --> 00:03:33,280
that will protect them in the icy southern seas.
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00:03:41,000 --> 00:03:45,000
The season is so short
that things have to move fast.
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00:03:45,080 --> 00:03:47,280
Over a mere two weeks,
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00:03:47,360 --> 00:03:49,760
the jam-packed colony virtually empties
35
00:03:49,840 --> 00:03:53,680
as the newly-feathered young
follow their parents to the sea
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00:03:53,760 --> 00:03:56,000
to make their first encounter with water.
37
00:04:09,360 --> 00:04:11,920
And their first swim will not be easy.
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00:04:12,160 --> 00:04:16,720
The bay is filled with surging,
sharp-edged brash ice.
39
00:04:18,600 --> 00:04:21,400
Even getting down to the water poses problems.
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00:04:25,840 --> 00:04:30,040
Soon the edge of the sea
is thronged by apprehensive youngsters,
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00:04:30,200 --> 00:04:33,960
nervously waiting
for someone to take the plunge.
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00:04:37,920 --> 00:04:40,280
The brash is so thick and extensive
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00:04:40,360 --> 00:04:42,360
that, on its seaward side,
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00:04:42,520 --> 00:04:46,120
adults returning with food
for their chicks can't get through.
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00:04:57,920 --> 00:04:59,680
They turn back.
46
00:05:07,720 --> 00:05:10,520
The hungry youngsters
now have little alternative.
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00:05:10,600 --> 00:05:12,960
They have to get to sea to feed.
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00:05:20,600 --> 00:05:24,560
In fact, it's easier for them to cross
the brash than for their parents.
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00:05:24,640 --> 00:05:26,720
Being significantly lighter and more buoyant,
50
00:05:26,880 --> 00:05:30,560
they can skitter across the surface
of the broken ice.
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00:05:41,240 --> 00:05:44,160
But moving so slowly and so clumsily
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00:05:44,240 --> 00:05:46,560
puts them in real danger.
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00:05:50,000 --> 00:05:51,880
(PANICKED CHIRPING)
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A leopard seal.
55
00:06:11,800 --> 00:06:15,520
The majority of the chicks
make it to open water,
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00:06:15,600 --> 00:06:17,360
where they are a little safer.
57
00:06:17,440 --> 00:06:19,840
The leopard seal stays with its victim.
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00:07:15,400 --> 00:07:19,680
This game of cat and mouse
goes on for 20 minutes.
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00:07:19,760 --> 00:07:23,600
Like so many other
large predators on land and sea,
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00:07:23,680 --> 00:07:28,440
the leopard seal seems to feel
no urgency to complete its kill.
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00:07:32,400 --> 00:07:34,480
At last, the penguin is dead.
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00:07:37,520 --> 00:07:41,600
Now the process
of stripping off its flesh begins.
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00:08:12,840 --> 00:08:16,400
The carcass drifts down to the sea floor.
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00:08:16,480 --> 00:08:18,240
But it won't be wasted.
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00:08:35,640 --> 00:08:38,560
A nemeteme worm, a metre long.
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00:08:38,640 --> 00:08:41,960
It has detected the taste of penguin flesh
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00:08:42,040 --> 00:08:44,040
drifting through the cold water.
68
00:08:54,600 --> 00:08:56,520
Another scavenger arrives -
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00:08:56,600 --> 00:08:59,600
a giant isopod, 10 centimetres long,
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00:08:59,680 --> 00:09:02,600
the equivalent of crabs in warmer waters.
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00:09:11,200 --> 00:09:15,960
The isopod strips off the meat
with its hooked legs and strong jaws.
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00:09:16,120 --> 00:09:20,760
The worm just turns its stomach
inside out and envelops the food.
73
00:09:23,120 --> 00:09:25,400
Within hours, the carcass is covered
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00:09:25,560 --> 00:09:29,000
by a writhing tangle of worms.
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00:09:32,280 --> 00:09:35,040
Within days, there is nothing left
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00:09:35,120 --> 00:09:37,040
but bare bones.
77
00:09:40,200 --> 00:09:43,440
The first snows of winter have fallen.
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00:09:45,520 --> 00:09:48,080
The last chicks to hatch are doomed.
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00:09:48,160 --> 00:09:50,240
Their parents have to abandon them
80
00:09:50,320 --> 00:09:52,040
before they are fully grown.
81
00:09:52,120 --> 00:09:55,960
The adults must go to sea
to build up their strength
82
00:09:56,040 --> 00:10:01,960
before returning to the colony for one
last ordeal before winter - the moult.
83
00:10:02,040 --> 00:10:06,120
All penguins need a new coat
of feathers for the winter,
84
00:10:06,200 --> 00:10:08,480
which means shedding the old one.
85
00:10:08,560 --> 00:10:10,520
So colonies right around the continent
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fill with shed feathers.
87
00:10:18,800 --> 00:10:20,720
On Deception Island,
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00:10:20,800 --> 00:10:24,800
Chinstrap penguins
stand silent and motionless.
89
00:10:30,360 --> 00:10:32,040
Only a month ago,
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00:10:32,120 --> 00:10:34,560
these steep slopes of volcanic ash
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00:10:34,640 --> 00:10:39,760
were noisy with the squawks
of 80,000 pairs of them coming and going
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00:10:39,840 --> 00:10:41,520
and caring for their chicks.
93
00:10:42,200 --> 00:10:45,200
Now they have little energy to spare.
94
00:10:45,680 --> 00:10:51,080
They can't go to sea with their coats
in this condition, so they can't feed.
95
00:10:56,600 --> 00:10:59,360
For three weeks, they stand fasting,
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00:10:59,520 --> 00:11:01,880
losing half their body weight,
97
00:11:01,960 --> 00:11:05,520
but at the end they will have
warm, watertight coats
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00:11:05,600 --> 00:11:07,840
and be ready for the icy blasts of winter.
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00:11:08,240 --> 00:11:10,480
(RAGING WIND)
100
00:11:15,000 --> 00:11:18,520
By the end of March, most of them have left,
101
00:11:18,600 --> 00:11:21,880
and the remainder are on the move,
making their way
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00:11:21,960 --> 00:11:25,200
across the emptying slopes back to the sea.
103
00:11:48,160 --> 00:11:51,960
Escape to the north, to open seas,
104
00:11:52,040 --> 00:11:56,720
is the driving force -
to move where the food should be.
105
00:11:56,800 --> 00:11:59,480
But the obstacles are formidable.
106
00:12:23,840 --> 00:12:26,720
At minus 1.9 degrees centigrade,
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00:12:26,800 --> 00:12:29,200
the sea begins to freeze.
108
00:12:29,640 --> 00:12:34,080
A slight swell on the surface
produces "pancake" ice.
109
00:12:39,440 --> 00:12:41,240
In the frigid air,
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00:12:41,320 --> 00:12:44,800
the ice above water grows into crystals.
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00:12:45,520 --> 00:12:49,280
The early explorers
called these fantastic shapes
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00:12:49,440 --> 00:12:51,440
"ice flowers".
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00:12:59,880 --> 00:13:02,480
As it gets colder and colder,
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00:13:02,640 --> 00:13:04,320
the ice thickens.
115
00:13:04,400 --> 00:13:08,520
On the coast, it freezes fast
to the margins of the land.
116
00:13:10,240 --> 00:13:14,800
Farther out, the pack ice
consolidates into sea ice.
117
00:13:16,880 --> 00:13:20,080
The belt of ice surrounding
the continent widens,
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00:13:20,160 --> 00:13:22,800
advancing north two miles a day
119
00:13:22,880 --> 00:13:25,080
and driving life before it.
120
00:13:27,560 --> 00:13:31,360
But the ice front has not yet
reached all the islands
121
00:13:31,440 --> 00:13:34,600
and there are still some that
can provide a refuge for wildlife
122
00:13:34,680 --> 00:13:36,480
well into autumn.
123
00:13:45,200 --> 00:13:46,760
Here on South Georgia,
124
00:13:46,840 --> 00:13:50,080
we are on the northern edge of Antarctica.
125
00:13:50,160 --> 00:13:53,880
You can be fairly sure that
the sea here won't freeze over.
126
00:13:53,960 --> 00:13:56,640
Only once or twice a century does it do so.
127
00:13:56,720 --> 00:14:01,040
This floating ice has all fallen
from the glacier behind me.
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00:14:01,120 --> 00:14:06,440
But although at 54 degrees south
we are as far away from the South Pole
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00:14:06,520 --> 00:14:08,520
as Britain is from the North,
130
00:14:08,600 --> 00:14:13,280
the immense ice cap of Antarctica
still dominates the climate.
131
00:14:15,680 --> 00:14:18,880
Glaciers cover over half the island.
132
00:14:18,960 --> 00:14:20,920
They blanket many of the peaks,
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00:14:21,000 --> 00:14:24,600
the tallest of which are 2,700 metres high,
134
00:14:24,680 --> 00:14:28,480
and in some places they run
right down into the sea.
135
00:14:28,560 --> 00:14:31,440
During the winter, the temperature falls
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00:14:31,520 --> 00:14:33,880
to minus 10 degrees at the coast,
137
00:14:33,960 --> 00:14:35,920
so the need for animals
to complete their breeding
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00:14:36,080 --> 00:14:37,920
in the short summer season
139
00:14:38,000 --> 00:14:40,080
is still very intense.
140
00:14:43,200 --> 00:14:45,920
Two million fur seals come here to breed,
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00:14:46,000 --> 00:14:47,800
and, at the end of summer,
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00:14:47,880 --> 00:14:52,000
the beaches are thronged
with young pups and their mothers.
143
00:14:54,760 --> 00:14:58,160
The pups suckle for four months,
until late March.
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00:14:58,240 --> 00:15:00,240
That's longer than the fur seals
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00:15:00,320 --> 00:15:02,320
that live in the warmer waters further north.
146
00:15:02,400 --> 00:15:05,760
It's a measure of how strong
young animals have to be
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00:15:05,840 --> 00:15:07,840
if they are to survive down here.
148
00:15:15,280 --> 00:15:19,040
A pup, to get all the milk that is its due,
149
00:15:19,120 --> 00:15:21,040
has to recognise its mother's call
150
00:15:21,120 --> 00:15:23,240
when she returns from feeding at sea
151
00:15:23,320 --> 00:15:25,360
and is ready to provide a feed.
152
00:15:25,520 --> 00:15:28,280
(LOUD HIGH- PITCHED CALL)
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00:15:44,360 --> 00:15:46,680
Three months earlier,
this shore was a battlefield
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00:15:46,760 --> 00:15:50,400
as the bulls fought for the right
to dominate this stretch of beach,
155
00:15:50,480 --> 00:15:52,280
and all the females on it.
156
00:15:52,360 --> 00:15:55,640
Now the mating has finished
and the bulls have gone to sea.
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00:15:55,720 --> 00:15:57,440
Only the pups are left,
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00:15:57,520 --> 00:15:59,960
testing their strength with mock fights.
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00:16:51,120 --> 00:16:53,080
Many of these youngsters
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00:16:53,240 --> 00:16:56,200
will not survive their first year.
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00:16:56,280 --> 00:16:58,560
The weaker ones will not get enough food.
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There will be accidents.
163
00:17:00,400 --> 00:17:01,880
There will be orphans.
164
00:17:02,240 --> 00:17:04,480
By the end of the breeding season,
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00:17:04,640 --> 00:17:07,120
corpses lie scattered over the beach,
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00:17:07,200 --> 00:17:10,360
food for skuas and giant petrels.
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00:17:25,720 --> 00:17:28,280
(LOUD SCREECHING)
168
00:17:40,120 --> 00:17:43,400
The petrels, with their great hooked beaks,
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00:17:43,480 --> 00:17:47,120
are usually the first to rip open a carcass.
170
00:17:49,440 --> 00:17:52,560
They are Antarctica's equivalent
of Africa's vultures.
171
00:17:52,640 --> 00:17:55,760
Their huge wings are two metres across.
172
00:17:55,840 --> 00:17:58,760
But, unlike vultures,
they don't just scavenge.
173
00:17:58,840 --> 00:18:01,840
They will tackle young penguins
and small sea birds
174
00:18:01,920 --> 00:18:03,680
while they are still alive.
175
00:18:34,280 --> 00:18:36,520
The whalers in the old days
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00:18:36,600 --> 00:18:38,360
used to call them "gluttons".
177
00:18:38,440 --> 00:18:40,400
It's easy to see why.
178
00:18:40,480 --> 00:18:44,920
And their dirtiness gave them
another nickname too - "stinkers".
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00:18:46,920 --> 00:18:50,280
Surprisingly, there are ducks
at this feast, too.
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00:18:50,360 --> 00:18:52,960
These are the South Georgia pintails.
181
00:18:53,040 --> 00:18:54,440
Alone among ducks,
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00:18:54,520 --> 00:18:56,960
they have acquired a regular taste for meat.
183
00:19:35,560 --> 00:19:38,160
An elephant seal wallow.
184
00:19:38,240 --> 00:19:40,880
This is an all-female gathering.
185
00:19:40,960 --> 00:19:43,200
They clearly like one another's company,
186
00:19:43,280 --> 00:19:45,520
for they congregate in great assemblies.
187
00:19:45,600 --> 00:19:49,440
But they can on occasion
get irritated with one another.
188
00:19:55,000 --> 00:19:57,400
(LOW GROWLING)
189
00:20:00,480 --> 00:20:03,200
Like the penguins, they went to sea
190
00:20:03,280 --> 00:20:04,760
after rearing their young,
191
00:20:04,840 --> 00:20:08,320
fed intensively to put on the weight
they lost during breeding,
192
00:20:08,400 --> 00:20:11,200
and now they have come back
in order to moult.
193
00:20:15,360 --> 00:20:18,040
Large chunks of skin and hair
194
00:20:18,120 --> 00:20:19,680
peel off their bodies,
195
00:20:19,760 --> 00:20:22,200
and it seems to make them very tetchy.
196
00:20:24,960 --> 00:20:28,040
It takes a month for them to grow new coats.
197
00:20:28,120 --> 00:20:32,320
Then, as the temperatures fall still lower
and winter closes in,
198
00:20:32,400 --> 00:20:35,280
they will return to the place
where they are most at home -
199
00:20:35,360 --> 00:20:37,240
the sea.
200
00:20:41,840 --> 00:20:45,560
Grey-headed albatross
also nest on South Georgia,
201
00:20:45,640 --> 00:20:47,720
but they stay a little longer.
202
00:20:51,640 --> 00:20:54,160
The waters are still ice-free,
203
00:20:54,240 --> 00:20:56,360
so they can catch food for their young
204
00:20:56,440 --> 00:20:58,280
well into autumn.
205
00:21:17,480 --> 00:21:20,080
An adult bird caring for its chick
206
00:21:20,280 --> 00:21:23,440
may travel 600 miles or more to find food,
207
00:21:23,520 --> 00:21:25,680
which it brings back in its crop.
208
00:21:37,920 --> 00:21:41,400
That was a squid, and very nice, too.
209
00:21:43,880 --> 00:21:47,480
Above the grey-heads,
another kind of albatross -
210
00:21:47,560 --> 00:21:49,880
the largest sea bird in the world,
211
00:21:49,960 --> 00:21:51,960
with a three metre wing-span -
212
00:21:52,040 --> 00:21:53,960
the wandering albatross.
213
00:21:55,240 --> 00:21:57,560
It nests a little further inland
214
00:21:57,640 --> 00:22:01,400
on South Georgia's meadows
and ridges of tussock grass.
215
00:22:08,640 --> 00:22:11,160
In marked contrast to the other birds,
216
00:22:11,240 --> 00:22:14,720
that have almost finished their
breeding and are preparing to leave,
217
00:22:14,800 --> 00:22:18,120
this wandering albatross
has come to start a courtship
218
00:22:18,200 --> 00:22:20,720
that may take two or three years.
219
00:22:22,240 --> 00:22:24,440
(SCREECHING)
220
00:22:33,080 --> 00:22:36,960
These young birds
have spent the first three years
221
00:22:37,040 --> 00:22:38,960
of their adult life at sea.
222
00:22:39,040 --> 00:22:41,720
Now they've returned
to the colony where they were reared
223
00:22:41,800 --> 00:22:43,960
and are starting to look for a partner.
224
00:22:44,040 --> 00:22:48,520
They do this by taking part
in dancing parties.
225
00:23:16,480 --> 00:23:18,640
Young unmated birds
226
00:23:18,720 --> 00:23:20,680
court like this for several years
227
00:23:20,760 --> 00:23:23,240
before they decide
who their partners shall be
228
00:23:23,320 --> 00:23:26,000
and together start work on a nest mound.
229
00:23:39,960 --> 00:23:44,280
But as the winter sets in
and its icy door closes,
230
00:23:44,360 --> 00:23:47,600
the young albatross too have to return to sea.
231
00:24:19,720 --> 00:24:23,640
The sea won't freeze
here around South Georgia,
232
00:24:23,720 --> 00:24:27,120
but as the sun moves north
and the days darken,
233
00:24:27,200 --> 00:24:30,400
the temperature of the ocean falls lower still
234
00:24:30,480 --> 00:24:33,920
and life in the water
becomes increasingly scarce.
235
00:24:34,000 --> 00:24:36,960
The huge shoals of krill disperse
236
00:24:37,120 --> 00:24:41,400
and for the seabirds, food becomes
more and more difficult to find.
237
00:24:51,120 --> 00:24:56,360
By April, winter storms are beginning
to sweep across the Antarctic.
238
00:25:22,080 --> 00:25:26,040
The winds rise to above 100 miles an hour.
239
00:25:26,120 --> 00:25:30,360
The temperature
falls to 70 degrees below zero.
240
00:25:34,360 --> 00:25:37,880
And then the sea freezes.
241
00:25:37,960 --> 00:25:40,320
The door has shut.
242
00:25:42,360 --> 00:25:47,080
Throughout the winter, the ice
continues to advance northwards.
243
00:25:47,160 --> 00:25:48,800
The area it covers
244
00:25:48,880 --> 00:25:53,320
increases at the rate
of 40,000 square miles every day.
245
00:25:53,400 --> 00:25:55,320
Before the winter is over,
246
00:25:55,400 --> 00:25:58,840
it will have almost doubled
the size of the continent.
247
00:26:30,680 --> 00:26:33,360
Now, at the end of autumn,
248
00:26:33,440 --> 00:26:37,440
practically all the wildlife
has escaped to the north.
249
00:26:37,520 --> 00:26:41,600
The whales have gone to find
warmer waters in which to breed.
250
00:26:41,680 --> 00:26:44,400
The seals, albatrosses
and most of the penguins
251
00:26:44,480 --> 00:26:46,320
have also gone out to sea,
252
00:26:46,400 --> 00:26:49,600
though no one as yet is sure exactly where.
253
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But there is one truly remarkable creature
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00:26:52,280 --> 00:26:56,080
that seems to turn all
these rules upside-down -
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00:26:56,160 --> 00:26:57,520
the Emperor penguin.
256
00:26:59,400 --> 00:27:01,520
Largest of all the penguins,
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00:27:01,600 --> 00:27:04,400
the Emperor stands over a metre high
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and weighs on average 33 kilos.
259
00:27:07,520 --> 00:27:10,440
Most creatures are forced
by the worsening weather
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00:27:10,520 --> 00:27:13,040
to retreat north to warmer latitudes,
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00:27:13,120 --> 00:27:15,960
but the Emperors are gathering
at the ice edge
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00:27:16,040 --> 00:27:18,520
to start travelling into the deep south,
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00:27:18,600 --> 00:27:21,320
where they will mate and rear their young.
264
00:28:05,640 --> 00:28:08,880
Now the Emperors start their long march -
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00:28:08,960 --> 00:28:10,960
maybe tens of miles -
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to reach their traditional
nesting site on the sea ice.
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00:28:14,440 --> 00:28:18,160
In the next programme, we'll follow them
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and see, with temperatures
dropping to minus 70 centigrade,
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how life in the freezer
faces the ultimate challenge -
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00:28:27,680 --> 00:28:29,360
the Antarctic winter.
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00:28:29,410 --> 00:28:33,960
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