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It's September - early spring
in the southern hemisphere.
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00:00:47,200 --> 00:00:50,760
The Antarctic continent
is encircled by sea ice
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00:00:50,840 --> 00:00:54,680
that extends for hundreds
of miles northwards around its coasts
4
00:00:54,760 --> 00:00:57,560
and encloses all but a few islands.
5
00:00:59,720 --> 00:01:05,320
But these ice-free islands,
like South Georgia, are very precious,
6
00:01:05,400 --> 00:01:07,400
for here the sea never freezes
7
00:01:07,560 --> 00:01:11,000
and any sea animal that needs to
can always get ashore.
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00:01:44,920 --> 00:01:50,040
First to return each spring
are the bull elephant seals.
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00:01:59,920 --> 00:02:03,080
They are about to land on a breeding beach,
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00:02:03,160 --> 00:02:07,400
and each one knows that when he does
he will have to face rivals.
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00:02:10,600 --> 00:02:14,120
A full-grown male weighs over three tonnes.
12
00:02:16,200 --> 00:02:20,040
Half the world's population
will come to this one island,
13
00:02:20,120 --> 00:02:22,440
8,000 to this beach alone.
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00:02:22,560 --> 00:02:24,480
(LOUD BELLOWING)
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00:02:24,560 --> 00:02:27,840
This immense gathering of elephant seals
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00:02:27,920 --> 00:02:30,600
extends for some two miles up this beach.
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00:02:30,680 --> 00:02:34,240
It might seem to be totally disorganised,
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00:02:34,320 --> 00:02:36,920
but there is a pattern to it.
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00:02:37,000 --> 00:02:39,040
All these are females.
20
00:02:39,120 --> 00:02:43,520
They came ashore about a month ago to pup
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00:02:43,600 --> 00:02:46,480
and now are ready to breed again.
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00:02:46,560 --> 00:02:51,200
And they all belong to this one male.
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00:02:51,280 --> 00:02:53,800
(THROATY BARKING)
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00:02:56,480 --> 00:02:59,280
This is a beachmaster
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00:02:59,360 --> 00:03:03,760
and there are a dozen or so like him
spaced out along this beach.
26
00:03:03,840 --> 00:03:06,920
Each one of them has his own harem.
27
00:03:07,000 --> 00:03:11,240
I estimate this one
has about a hundred females.
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00:03:11,320 --> 00:03:14,400
His sole object in life at the moment
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00:03:14,480 --> 00:03:17,840
is to make quite sure that he and he alone
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00:03:17,920 --> 00:03:20,400
mates with every one of them.
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00:03:20,480 --> 00:03:22,880
And for that he must fight...
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(AGGRESSIVE ROARING)
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He's won,
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00:03:44,640 --> 00:03:49,600
but he'll have to battle many times
every day if he is to keep control.
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00:03:52,720 --> 00:03:55,800
The females gave birth
soon after they arrived.
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00:03:55,880 --> 00:03:59,640
They now have three weeks
in which to feed their pups
37
00:03:59,720 --> 00:04:03,080
before they themselves
have to go back to sea to feed.
38
00:04:06,080 --> 00:04:07,840
In that short time,
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00:04:08,000 --> 00:04:11,080
they have to transform a near empty bag of skin
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00:04:11,160 --> 00:04:14,000
into a full bag of blubber.
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00:04:16,920 --> 00:04:19,840
As they come to the end of suckling,
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00:04:19,920 --> 00:04:21,920
the females become sexually receptive again.
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00:04:22,000 --> 00:04:26,520
That is the moment the beachmaster
has been waiting for.
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00:04:31,840 --> 00:04:33,680
But while he is busy,
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00:04:33,760 --> 00:04:36,400
a rival is also busy
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00:04:36,480 --> 00:04:38,560
on the edge of the harem.
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00:04:39,040 --> 00:04:41,480
That can't be tolerated.
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00:04:46,280 --> 00:04:48,360
(ANGRY ROARING)
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00:04:50,400 --> 00:04:52,800
(DEEP ROAR)
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00:05:02,280 --> 00:05:04,200
A roar is enough -
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00:05:04,280 --> 00:05:06,680
the interloper retreats.
52
00:05:10,520 --> 00:05:13,440
But many conflicts
will only be settled by violence.
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00:05:13,520 --> 00:05:14,880
Males get ripped -
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00:05:14,960 --> 00:05:18,480
and those in the way
of the fighters may get crushed.
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00:05:21,160 --> 00:05:23,080
(YELPING)
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00:05:26,840 --> 00:05:31,840
Every now and then, the beachmaster
proclaims his dominance with a roar.
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00:05:31,920 --> 00:05:35,200
The bigger the bull,
the louder and deeper his voice.
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00:05:35,280 --> 00:05:37,200
A rival can judge from it
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00:05:37,280 --> 00:05:41,560
whether or not he has a chance
in a straight battle.
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00:05:43,640 --> 00:05:45,560
(THROATY ROAR)
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00:05:49,520 --> 00:05:54,000
If he is going to persevere
with his challenge, he must now fight.
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00:05:57,480 --> 00:05:59,800
The pair rear up to over eight feet.
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00:05:59,880 --> 00:06:02,280
Their only weapons are their teeth,
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00:06:02,360 --> 00:06:05,760
but they can do a lot of damage with them.
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00:06:32,920 --> 00:06:35,840
The hide on the neck is particularly thick
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00:06:35,920 --> 00:06:37,520
and prevents serious injury.
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00:06:37,600 --> 00:06:41,640
A bout can go on for a quarter of an hour.
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00:06:41,720 --> 00:06:44,280
Eventually the battle is brought to an end
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00:06:44,360 --> 00:06:47,440
by exhaustion as much as anything else.
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00:06:56,360 --> 00:06:58,920
On the grassy slopes above the battleground,
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00:06:59,000 --> 00:07:01,800
the scene is more peaceful.
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00:07:02,280 --> 00:07:06,040
Black-browed albatross
are returning from the sea.
73
00:07:30,840 --> 00:07:33,000
Grey-headed albatross are here too,
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00:07:33,080 --> 00:07:34,840
hanging on the updraughts
75
00:07:34,920 --> 00:07:37,080
caused when the ever-continuing wind
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00:07:37,160 --> 00:07:40,120
is deflected upwards by the cliff face.
77
00:07:53,040 --> 00:07:54,560
Throughout the past winter,
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00:07:54,640 --> 00:07:57,280
these birds have been flying alone
over the vast ocean,
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00:07:57,360 --> 00:07:58,880
searching for food.
80
00:07:58,960 --> 00:08:01,120
Now they are returning to breed
81
00:08:01,200 --> 00:08:02,960
and are assembling in colonies
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several thousand strong.
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(CAWING)
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00:08:10,400 --> 00:08:15,520
Breeding pairs from previous seasons
are reunited -
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00:08:15,600 --> 00:08:19,040
and each uses exactly
the same nest mound they used before.
86
00:08:19,120 --> 00:08:21,960
But it does need a little renovation.
87
00:08:28,080 --> 00:08:32,800
Mutual grooming renews
the bond between them.
88
00:08:39,000 --> 00:08:41,920
Both grey-headed
and black-browed albatross
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00:08:42,000 --> 00:08:44,880
are faithful for life, twenty years or so,
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00:08:44,960 --> 00:08:47,080
and long-established pairs
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only need a brief repetition of their
courtship ritual before they mate.
92
00:09:06,440 --> 00:09:09,880
Two weeks later, the female lays a single egg,
93
00:09:09,960 --> 00:09:11,880
and for the next seventy days,
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00:09:11,960 --> 00:09:15,080
the two take turns to incubate it.
95
00:09:25,360 --> 00:09:27,920
While one keeps the egg warm,
96
00:09:28,000 --> 00:09:30,240
the other flies off to feed
97
00:09:30,320 --> 00:09:34,760
and may have to travel thousands of miles
before it gets what it needs.
98
00:09:38,080 --> 00:09:41,240
Most kinds of albatross nest in colonies.
99
00:09:41,320 --> 00:09:45,360
One special one, however,
prefers a more solitary life.
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00:09:50,080 --> 00:09:54,600
Light-mantled sooty albatross
are the last to return to the island.
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00:09:54,680 --> 00:09:57,200
The males come first.
102
00:10:02,480 --> 00:10:05,560
One that is still unpaired settles on a ledge
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00:10:05,640 --> 00:10:08,720
and calls to passing females.
104
00:10:27,640 --> 00:10:31,880
Having listened to many,
she eventually selects one.
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00:10:37,520 --> 00:10:39,800
The next stage in courtship
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00:10:39,880 --> 00:10:43,280
involves a certain amount
of nodding and dancing.
107
00:10:49,040 --> 00:10:55,560
And then there follows a most beautiful
perfectly synchronised display flight.
108
00:11:48,000 --> 00:11:52,080
During the day,
the skies belong to the albatross,
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00:11:52,160 --> 00:11:53,560
but as darkness comes,
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00:11:53,640 --> 00:11:59,080
other more nervous and more numerous birds
come to the island.
111
00:12:05,800 --> 00:12:08,800
Thousands of small petrels and prions
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00:12:08,880 --> 00:12:12,640
fly agitatedly around the cliffs
in the darkness.
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00:12:14,840 --> 00:12:18,800
22 million nest amongst the tussac grass
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00:12:18,880 --> 00:12:20,880
on South Georgia alone.
115
00:12:23,360 --> 00:12:27,920
Being so small, the prions are
vulnerable to attack by skuas,
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00:12:28,000 --> 00:12:32,400
and for the safety of their defenceless
chicks during the day,
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00:12:32,480 --> 00:12:34,960
they make their nests in burrows.
118
00:12:36,040 --> 00:12:39,200
Outside, the white-chinned
petrels assemble.
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(CONSTANT CHIRPING)
120
00:12:45,280 --> 00:12:49,120
Duetting pairs defend the territories
around their burrows,
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00:12:49,200 --> 00:12:53,000
that can extend two metres
beneath the tussac grass.
122
00:12:59,320 --> 00:13:03,000
The chick stays safely
inside the burrow for two months.
123
00:13:03,080 --> 00:13:06,480
Every other day,
one of the adults comes to feed it
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00:13:06,560 --> 00:13:08,680
with a mixture of squid and krill.
125
00:13:11,840 --> 00:13:14,400
Before dawn, and danger,
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00:13:14,480 --> 00:13:18,120
all the adults will have
disappeared from the island
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00:13:18,200 --> 00:13:20,280
and returned to the open ocean.
128
00:13:26,280 --> 00:13:30,560
This hillside is jam-packed
with Macaroni penguins
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and virtually nothing else.
130
00:13:32,680 --> 00:13:35,200
There are some 80,000 of them here,
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00:13:35,280 --> 00:13:37,880
but even this vast assemblage
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00:13:37,960 --> 00:13:42,480
is only a tiny proportion
of the total population of South Georgia,
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00:13:42,560 --> 00:13:46,600
which is estimated
to be more than 10,000,000.
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00:13:46,680 --> 00:13:49,480
It's an astonishing
demonstration of the fact
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00:13:49,560 --> 00:13:54,120
that although the Antarctic
is virtually lifeless over vast areas,
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there are one or two small oases
that teem with life.
137
00:14:06,600 --> 00:14:08,680
After spending the winter
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00:14:08,760 --> 00:14:11,840
wandering around the northern fringes
of the southern ocean,
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00:14:11,920 --> 00:14:15,160
the Macaronis return
with remarkable punctuality.
140
00:14:15,240 --> 00:14:21,440
In just ten days, the terraces of this
empty stadium become packed tight.
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00:14:21,520 --> 00:14:26,040
The males come first,
the females a week later.
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00:14:29,280 --> 00:14:32,640
The Macaroni is very much THE penguin
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00:14:32,720 --> 00:14:35,680
of the northern rim of the Antarctic.
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00:14:35,760 --> 00:14:38,200
Very few of them venture farther south
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00:14:38,280 --> 00:14:40,360
than the sub-Antarctic islands.
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00:14:40,440 --> 00:14:43,640
But here they constitute over fifty per cent
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00:14:43,720 --> 00:14:45,800
of all sea birds.
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00:14:45,880 --> 00:14:49,480
At the moment, at the beginning
of the breeding season,
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they are squabbling noisily,
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00:14:51,080 --> 00:14:55,960
as each pair fights to hold
its own tiny nest site.
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00:14:58,000 --> 00:15:00,920
Each new arrival has to make its way
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00:15:01,000 --> 00:15:04,360
through a barrage of pecks
from outraged nest owners.
153
00:15:07,280 --> 00:15:09,040
Macaronis must be the noisiest
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00:15:09,120 --> 00:15:11,640
and most bad-tempered of all penguins,
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00:15:11,720 --> 00:15:15,920
and sometimes the fights
can be really vicious.
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00:15:16,000 --> 00:15:18,080
(AGGRESSIVE SCREECHING)
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00:15:49,920 --> 00:15:53,080
Eventually, a female finds her male
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00:15:53,160 --> 00:15:56,480
and is rewarded with a greeting display...
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00:15:59,160 --> 00:16:01,480
...and a comforting preen.
160
00:16:09,640 --> 00:16:13,600
Ten days later, she's produced two eggs.
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00:16:13,680 --> 00:16:16,040
But, remarkably, one of them -
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00:16:16,120 --> 00:16:18,040
the darker, smaller one -
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00:16:18,120 --> 00:16:20,120
is nearly always abandoned.
164
00:16:20,200 --> 00:16:22,240
Why is not certain.
165
00:16:22,320 --> 00:16:26,280
It may be insurance
against the loss of the bigger one.
166
00:16:26,360 --> 00:16:29,720
But the colony is not littered
with abandoned eggs.
167
00:16:29,840 --> 00:16:34,000
It has its own squad
of refuse collectors - sheathbills.
168
00:16:41,120 --> 00:16:45,560
During the summer,
they normally eat penguin droppings.
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00:16:45,640 --> 00:16:48,560
An abandoned if addled egg
must make a nice change.
170
00:16:51,080 --> 00:16:54,360
Sheathbills are one of the few birds here
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00:16:54,440 --> 00:16:57,520
that do not rely on the ocean
for food, at least directly.
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00:16:57,600 --> 00:16:59,760
They are totally land-based.
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00:17:01,080 --> 00:17:04,280
All the wildlife here in South Georgia -
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00:17:04,360 --> 00:17:08,560
the Macaroni penguins,
the albatrosses, the elephant seals,
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00:17:08,640 --> 00:17:10,280
even the tussac grass -
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00:17:10,360 --> 00:17:14,080
is virtually restricted
to the outer rim of Antarctica.
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00:17:14,160 --> 00:17:17,040
Farther south, it's a harsher world.
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00:17:17,120 --> 00:17:19,080
There, ice dominates.
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00:17:19,160 --> 00:17:23,240
But with the arrival of spring,
that world is warming just slightly.
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00:17:23,320 --> 00:17:26,800
The sea ice is retreating
and animals are returning -
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00:17:26,880 --> 00:17:30,720
animals that are specially adapted
to life in the frozen south.
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00:17:36,160 --> 00:17:39,520
Most of Antarctica
is still locked in by sea ice,
183
00:17:39,600 --> 00:17:43,480
but as the days lengthen,
so that slowly retreats.
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00:17:43,560 --> 00:17:47,320
First to be freed
is the Antarctic peninsula,
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00:17:47,400 --> 00:17:51,320
a long arm of the continent
that reaches up northwards.
186
00:17:56,560 --> 00:18:01,240
For a few months, it's possible
to reach its coast by sea.
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00:18:01,320 --> 00:18:03,840
Antarctica is nowhere lovelier.
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00:18:05,800 --> 00:18:08,000
But even at the height of the summer,
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00:18:08,080 --> 00:18:11,080
only 2% of the continent is free from ice,
190
00:18:11,160 --> 00:18:13,240
and most of that is here.
191
00:18:28,200 --> 00:18:32,520
But no sea animal will reach
those distant rock slopes
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00:18:32,600 --> 00:18:35,040
until the sea ice breaks up.
193
00:18:49,640 --> 00:18:53,600
Gentoo penguins
are among the first to make it.
194
00:18:59,880 --> 00:19:02,760
They need bare rock for their nests,
195
00:19:02,840 --> 00:19:07,480
but even now that's so scarce
they may have a hard climb to reach it.
196
00:19:12,280 --> 00:19:15,360
These are on their way to relieve their mates
197
00:19:15,440 --> 00:19:19,280
who, for the past three days,
have been looking after the eggs.
198
00:19:24,200 --> 00:19:26,280
Their eggs were laid in November,
199
00:19:26,360 --> 00:19:30,240
almost a month after the Gentoos
up in South Georgia.
200
00:19:30,320 --> 00:19:32,840
There's no soil here
with which to make a nest
201
00:19:32,920 --> 00:19:36,920
and precious little vegetation,
just a few small stones.
202
00:19:42,960 --> 00:19:45,800
And even the stones are in short supply
203
00:19:45,880 --> 00:19:49,280
and may have to be
"borrowed" from a neighbour.
204
00:19:51,160 --> 00:19:54,320
(ANNOYED SQUAWKING)
205
00:20:11,800 --> 00:20:16,240
Nobody likes to see their nest
disappearing from beneath their feet.
206
00:20:18,280 --> 00:20:20,920
But when thieves come from all sides,
207
00:20:21,000 --> 00:20:23,440
there's not much you can do.
208
00:20:30,560 --> 00:20:35,280
After five weeks of incubation,
the chicks start to hatch.
209
00:20:35,560 --> 00:20:37,480
(FEEBLE SQUAWK)
210
00:20:40,680 --> 00:20:42,720
Unlike the Macaronis,
211
00:20:42,800 --> 00:20:45,680
both the Gentoos' eggs hatch.
212
00:20:45,760 --> 00:20:49,080
For three weeks,
the adults care for the chicks,
213
00:20:49,160 --> 00:20:51,320
protecting them from the cold.
214
00:20:51,400 --> 00:20:54,400
They take turns to bring meals
of small fish and krill.
215
00:20:56,440 --> 00:20:59,720
But the labour of doing so is enormous,
216
00:20:59,800 --> 00:21:04,200
for there's that snow slope
to be traversed every time
217
00:21:04,280 --> 00:21:07,480
and penguins were not designed for skiing.
218
00:21:42,640 --> 00:21:44,560
As spring advances,
219
00:21:44,640 --> 00:21:48,160
more and more of the peninsula
becomes ice-free,
220
00:21:48,240 --> 00:21:51,400
and humpback whales
appear along the coast, seeking krill.
221
00:22:02,360 --> 00:22:05,160
The sea ice, as it disintegrates,
222
00:22:05,240 --> 00:22:08,360
forms a sort of soup of loose blocks.
223
00:22:08,440 --> 00:22:10,600
This is the pack ice.
224
00:22:10,680 --> 00:22:13,160
The whales will go no further.
225
00:22:17,040 --> 00:22:19,720
(WHO0SH OF EXPELLED AIR)
226
00:22:25,400 --> 00:22:27,160
At its outer edges,
227
00:22:27,240 --> 00:22:29,880
the pack is easy to get through.
228
00:22:29,960 --> 00:22:34,800
But further south, the floes become
bigger and more closely packed.
229
00:22:47,080 --> 00:22:51,280
Only the most powerful ice-breaking
ships can force a passage
230
00:22:51,360 --> 00:22:55,120
through the vast band of broken ice
that rings the continent.
231
00:22:55,200 --> 00:22:57,400
In places, it's 200 miles across.
232
00:22:57,480 --> 00:22:59,480
This, however, surprisingly,
233
00:22:59,560 --> 00:23:04,040
is home of the most numerous large mammal
in the world apart from man -
234
00:23:06,320 --> 00:23:08,280
crabeater seals.
235
00:23:08,360 --> 00:23:10,840
Up to 30 million live around the continent
236
00:23:10,920 --> 00:23:14,520
in this in-between world of ice and water.
237
00:23:14,600 --> 00:23:16,560
Here they rest and pup.
238
00:23:16,640 --> 00:23:18,560
They never come to land.
239
00:23:19,280 --> 00:23:22,640
Despite their name, they live on krill.
240
00:23:22,720 --> 00:23:26,760
They sieve sea water
through their interlocking teeth
241
00:23:26,840 --> 00:23:30,400
and consume 20 kilos of it every day.
242
00:23:49,960 --> 00:23:52,960
Even further south, beyond the pack ice,
243
00:23:53,040 --> 00:23:56,240
there still remains
mile after mile of winter ice
244
00:23:56,320 --> 00:23:58,600
that has not yet broken up.
245
00:23:59,680 --> 00:24:03,520
Very few creatures can get
across this to the land beyond.
246
00:24:03,600 --> 00:24:05,600
But one does...
247
00:24:10,960 --> 00:24:13,000
...the Adelie penguin.
248
00:24:13,080 --> 00:24:16,640
They breed further south
than any other penguin.
249
00:24:16,720 --> 00:24:21,160
They can't wait for the ice
to break and have to walk.
250
00:24:21,240 --> 00:24:25,000
In some years, they will march
for over 60 miles
251
00:24:25,080 --> 00:24:28,040
to reach their traditional breeding grounds.
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00:24:28,120 --> 00:24:30,720
The Antarctic summer is short indeed.
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They must hurry.
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00:25:02,840 --> 00:25:05,640
Their journey is remarkable enough
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but, incredibly, one creature
makes an even longer one.
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Snow petrels are smaller than pigeons,
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yet they fly across ice that never melts
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and climb to altitudes of 3,000 metres
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00:25:21,760 --> 00:25:26,200
right up and onto the vast Antarctic ice cap.
260
00:25:29,400 --> 00:25:32,560
Here, over an area larger than Australia,
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00:25:32,640 --> 00:25:35,120
the ice is several miles thick.
262
00:25:35,200 --> 00:25:37,800
It blankets whole mountain ranges.
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00:25:37,880 --> 00:25:41,440
Only the summits of the tallest
project through it,
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00:25:41,520 --> 00:25:43,360
as "nunataks".
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These few tiny patches of rock
isolated in a sea of ice
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are as precious as an oasis in a desert.
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Only 2% of the continent is ice-free,
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and nearly all of that is near the coast.
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00:26:01,600 --> 00:26:05,040
But snow petrels can't lay their eggs on ice
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00:26:05,120 --> 00:26:09,920
and are prepared to fly
a very long way to find bare rock.
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00:26:10,000 --> 00:26:15,640
One of their nests was found on a nunatak
like this, 144 miles from the coast.
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Snow petrels bring life to this,
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the most life-less part of our planet.
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They breed further south than any other bird.
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They have to wait
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00:26:37,760 --> 00:26:40,080
for their nesting ledges
to be cleared from the thick snow.
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00:26:40,160 --> 00:26:44,920
Even at the height of summer,
temperatures don't rise above minus 30.
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00:26:45,000 --> 00:26:47,280
There is no unfrozen water,
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00:26:47,360 --> 00:26:50,840
and to keep clean they have to bathe in snow.
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00:27:52,640 --> 00:27:56,000
As soon as the winds
have swept the bulk of the snow
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00:27:56,120 --> 00:27:58,080
from the higher rock slopes,
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the snow petrels take possession of them.
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00:28:00,400 --> 00:28:02,800
But there is still much to do.
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00:28:02,880 --> 00:28:05,160
They may have to excavate a metre of snow
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00:28:05,240 --> 00:28:09,720
to get into a crevice
and find a nest site that suits them.
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00:28:13,880 --> 00:28:15,800
In the coming season,
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00:28:15,880 --> 00:28:19,520
they will have to make the journey
of over 200 miles back to open water
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00:28:19,600 --> 00:28:22,840
again and again
to collect food for their chicks.
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00:28:25,800 --> 00:28:27,720
But with their arrival,
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00:28:27,800 --> 00:28:31,760
spring has, at last, come to the deep south.
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00:28:34,040 --> 00:28:38,120
Next week, with the ice retreating
to its minimum extent,
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00:28:38,200 --> 00:28:40,760
we will watch the race to breed
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as the wildlife takes advantage
of the brief Antarctic summer.
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00:28:44,970 --> 00:28:49,520
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