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I am at the very centre
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of the great white continent,
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Antarctica.
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The South Pole is about half a mile away.
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For a thousand miles in all directions
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there is nothing but ice.
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00:01:03,400 --> 00:01:05,720
And, in the whole of this continent,
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which is one and a half times
the size of the United States
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and larger than Europe,
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there is a year-round population
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of no more than 800 people.
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This is the loneliest
and the coldest place on Earth,
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the place that is most hostile to life.
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Yet, in one or two places,
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it is astonishingly rich.
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(HOWLING WIND)
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Penguins come here by the million
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and endure temperatures
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of minus 70 degrees centigrade
and winds of 120 miles an hour.
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00:02:06,600 --> 00:02:10,160
Other birds fly right
to the heart of the continent,
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even though they have to dig away snow
in order to find a place to nest.
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And here is the nursery
for over half the world's seals.
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Antarctica is remote
from all other continents,
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surrounded by the vast southern ocean
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and smothered by a blanket of ice
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so immense that it contains
over 75% of the world's fresh water.
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All life in the Antarctic
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is dominated by the ice.
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All but 2% of the continent is covered by it.
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Its very whiteness
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reflects back what little heat
there is in the sun's feeble rays,
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and snow, when it falls,
remains permanently frozen,
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so that now, after accumulating
for millions of years,
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it has formed this gigantic ice cap
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and the ice beneath my feet
is three miles thick.
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Submerged beneath it
are mountain ranges as high as the Alps.
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Only their summits project through it.
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Rivers of ice spill down
from the ice cap as great glaciers
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and creep slowly
towards the edge of the continent
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and the sea.
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When you get beneath the snout
of one of these huge glaciers,
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you begin to appreciate
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the immense power and size
of the Antarctic ice machine.
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The ice here towers 100 feet above me
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and the front of the glacier
is about two miles across.
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But this is a small glacier.
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The largest glacier
in Antarctica and in the world
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is the Lambert glacier,
and that's 25 miles across.
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This certainly is not a place to linger.
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00:04:09,320 --> 00:04:11,240
The glacier moves forward
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at a rate of about two-thirds of a mile a year,
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and the front end continually
breaks away to form icebergs.
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If one came down now,
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the surge could easily overturn a small boat.
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These icefalls disintegrate into brash ice,
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but when a large chunk of a glacier
or ice sheet breaks away,
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it floats off as an iceberg.
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00:05:23,640 --> 00:05:26,600
At first, these bergs are slab-like,
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but winds and waves above water
and currents below slowly carve them
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into the loveliest of shapes.
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A large berg can survive for up to ten years
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before it ultimately breaks up and melts.
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Only one fifth of an iceberg
is above the surface.
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The rest is hidden beneath the water.
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Streams of minute air bubbles,
released from the melting berg,
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carve grooves in its submerged flanks.
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Huge though bergs may be,
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they are nonetheless usually on the move.
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But come the winter,
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sea ice forms around them
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and locks them solid.
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As winter progresses,
so more and more of the sea freezes,
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spreading out from the margins
of the land like an immense skirt
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so that, in effect,
the continent doubles in size.
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When the ice reaches its farthest extent,
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you have to travel hundreds of miles
from the edge of the continent
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before you reach open water.
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00:07:23,360 --> 00:07:26,440
The annual formation of the sea ice
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is the greatest seasonal change
that takes place on this planet,
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and completely dominates
the lives of Antarctic animals.
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00:07:34,440 --> 00:07:38,520
Practically all of them depend
on the sea for their food,
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so year-round access to it
is essential for their survival.
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In the summer, when the sea ice melts,
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they can reach the islands
that were trapped in the ice
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and eventually the continent itself.
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But when the ice re-forms,
they have to retreat north.
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So now, in winter,
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with the sea ice at its fullest extent,
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it's in the sea that we must look for life.
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The southern ocean is extremely rich in food.
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Millions of penguins and seals
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and thousands of whales feed here.
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The majority of them rely
on just one source of food -
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krill.
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Krill are small, shrimp-like creatures
about six centimetres long.
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00:09:00,360 --> 00:09:04,040
In winter, they are dispersed widely,
mostly under the ice,
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00:09:04,200 --> 00:09:07,520
but in summer
they assemble in vast swarms,
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some of which may contain
a billion individuals.
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They are the most numerous animals on Earth.
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00:09:16,880 --> 00:09:22,200
Their total weight far exceeds
that of the total human population.
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Humpback whales.
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During the brief summer,
they gorge themselves on krill.
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00:09:49,720 --> 00:09:52,520
When the krill swarms are near the surface,
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the humpbacks collect them by lunging.
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They simply open their cavernous mouths
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and scoop it up.
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00:10:14,000 --> 00:10:16,200
Often the whales co-operate,
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working together as fishing boats do.
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00:10:39,640 --> 00:10:42,160
When the krill is more dispersed,
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the whales have to dive deeper.
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After a while,
lines of bubbles appear on the surface.
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The bubbles gradually
form a pattern that spirals inwards.
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00:11:04,440 --> 00:11:06,840
Then suddenly, in its centre,
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the whales appear.
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00:11:18,800 --> 00:11:21,080
Time and again, the pair dive.
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00:11:21,640 --> 00:11:23,920
When they reach the bottom of the dive,
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they start releasing bubbles
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00:11:25,520 --> 00:11:27,880
and continue to do so as they swim upwards,
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spiralling around one another.
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00:11:31,280 --> 00:11:36,920
These curtains of bubbles rise through the water,
creating a ring on the surface.
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00:11:41,840 --> 00:11:46,080
Underwater, the curtains drive
the krill into the centre of the spiral
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00:11:46,160 --> 00:11:49,000
and the humpbacks
then surge up through the middle,
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jaws agape.
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00:12:09,560 --> 00:12:12,040
The humpbacks that visit Antarctica
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00:12:12,120 --> 00:12:15,080
only feed during the brief southern summer,
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building their reserves
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for a winter that will be spent
in less productive northern waters.
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00:12:20,400 --> 00:12:22,320
And so, for hour after hour
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throughout the long Antarctic day,
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00:12:25,120 --> 00:12:27,120
these 40-tonne creatures
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perform a splendidly synchronised
and very productive underwater ballet.
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Other creatures benefit
from the whales' industry.
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Sea birds forage in their wake.
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00:12:52,720 --> 00:12:56,440
As the whales drive the krill
closer to the surface,
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00:12:56,520 --> 00:13:00,840
it comes within reach of birds
that are not particularly skilled in diving.
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00:13:04,360 --> 00:13:07,080
Cape petrels, about the size of pigeons,
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can only duck-dive a few feet down.
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00:13:12,720 --> 00:13:15,360
But that's enough to give them a share.
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360 million sea birds constantly scour
the southern ocean for food.
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They only go to land to breed.
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Most of their lives are spent on the wing,
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far out to sea.
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This ocean is rich in nutrients
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and very rough.
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00:14:01,720 --> 00:14:04,440
Howling gales whip it into huge waves.
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00:14:04,520 --> 00:14:08,320
These, with so few islands
to interrupt and break them,
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grow and grow into some
of the most mountainous seas
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00:14:12,760 --> 00:14:15,320
to be found in any ocean.
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00:14:31,240 --> 00:14:34,160
Birds, dispersed over its vast surface,
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face a huge problem in finding food,
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00:14:36,880 --> 00:14:40,880
for it is by no means
uniformly spread throughout the ocean.
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00:14:40,960 --> 00:14:42,840
The nutrients occur in patches,
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and so the krill, which is
sustained by those nutrients,
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is patchy too.
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But once the birds find a swarm,
there is a frenzy of feeding.
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Krill typically spends the day in deep water,
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rising nearer to the surface at night.
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But sometimes a swarm rises during the day
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and then the birds get their chance.
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00:15:16,000 --> 00:15:17,840
But getting to the krill
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is still a major problem
to all birds except penguins.
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00:15:21,400 --> 00:15:25,920
Albatrosses such as the black-browed,
whose diet is about 40% krill,
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can only dive down
a couple of metres at the most.
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Fur seals also feed out in the open ocean,
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but they are able to dive
to 100 metres or more.
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00:16:39,880 --> 00:16:41,600
The patchiness of the krill
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requires those that live on it
to spend a great deal of time searching,
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and an albatross will fly hundreds,
sometimes thousands of miles,
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on a single foraging trip.
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00:16:53,280 --> 00:16:56,040
Out here, birds can't afford to be fussy,
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and must take whatever food they can find.
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00:16:58,960 --> 00:17:02,360
Almost all of them scavenge to some extent.
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These birds have found
the remains of a small whale.
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00:17:10,280 --> 00:17:14,640
They are the crumbs left behind
after a catch by killer whales.
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00:17:35,040 --> 00:17:38,480
Giant petrels -
the vultures of the Antarctic -
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soon dominate the feast.
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(SCREECHING)
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The biggest of all these scavengers
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is the wandering albatross.
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00:18:02,720 --> 00:18:04,840
With a wing-span of over three metres,
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this bird can range over greater
distances than any other.
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00:18:10,080 --> 00:18:14,360
It needs the updraught
created by waves in order to fly,
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00:18:14,440 --> 00:18:19,120
and only these stormy southern waters
provide that in such abundance.
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00:18:21,920 --> 00:18:26,200
Throughout the winter, the wandering
albatross remain in the south,
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00:18:26,280 --> 00:18:28,920
for although the continent is trapped in ice,
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there are a few outer islands
that always remain beyond its grasp,
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and these provide the albatross
with their nesting sites.
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3,000 pairs of wandering albatross
nest on one of them,
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here in South Georgia.
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00:19:05,680 --> 00:19:09,040
An adult wanderer may travel 5,000 miles -
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sometimes to Brazil and back -
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in order to collect squid for its young.
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00:19:53,760 --> 00:19:58,080
This enormous chick weighs ten kilos,
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00:19:58,160 --> 00:20:00,720
as much as a full-grown swan.
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It's the biggest of any sea bird chick.
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Although it's a couple of months
before it has to face its first flight,
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it's now at its maximum weight.
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00:20:11,200 --> 00:20:13,640
In fact, it's heavier even...
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(HE LAUGHS)
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00:20:16,600 --> 00:20:18,840
...heavier than the adult.
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00:20:18,920 --> 00:20:22,200
The spring snows are now beginning to melt,
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00:20:22,280 --> 00:20:25,960
but the chick has already faced
the worst of the winter weather.
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00:20:26,120 --> 00:20:27,960
Hatched last March,
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00:20:28,040 --> 00:20:30,400
it has sat here on its nest mound
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unprotected and unshielded for eight months
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00:20:33,760 --> 00:20:37,040
while the temperatures may have
fallen to minus 10 degrees
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00:20:37,120 --> 00:20:39,680
and terrible storms raged.
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00:20:39,840 --> 00:20:44,800
It's so big that it can't possibly
grow to this very huge size
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00:20:44,880 --> 00:20:47,000
in the short summer season.
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00:20:47,080 --> 00:20:50,520
So the parents have to come to feed it
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00:20:50,600 --> 00:20:54,120
every three or four days for 10 months.
212
00:20:54,200 --> 00:20:58,880
In order to do that,
they have to be able to reach the open sea.
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00:21:26,640 --> 00:21:31,040
Only one other animal breeds
throughout the year on the outer islands -
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00:21:31,120 --> 00:21:32,720
King penguins.
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00:21:32,800 --> 00:21:35,840
They also need continuous access to the ocean
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00:21:35,920 --> 00:21:38,000
to collect food for their chicks.
217
00:22:24,520 --> 00:22:26,280
Throughout the winter,
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00:22:26,360 --> 00:22:29,720
adults come and go from their
traditional breeding colonies.
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00:22:29,880 --> 00:22:32,920
(DIN OF SQUAWKING)
220
00:22:33,680 --> 00:22:37,840
Antarctica is home to two million Kings.
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00:22:37,920 --> 00:22:42,400
In this one colony alone,
there are 600,000 of them.
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00:22:45,400 --> 00:22:49,200
These engaging chicks are so inquisitive
223
00:22:49,280 --> 00:22:52,760
that you only have
to sit down to their own level
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00:22:52,840 --> 00:22:54,880
for them all to gather round you
225
00:22:54,960 --> 00:22:58,120
and try and discover
what sort of creature you are.
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00:22:58,200 --> 00:23:00,400
They were hatched last summer
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00:23:00,560 --> 00:23:02,640
and, like the albatross chicks,
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00:23:02,720 --> 00:23:06,360
they're coming to the end
of their first winter.
229
00:23:06,520 --> 00:23:10,640
During that period, their parents
were out to sea catching food for them,
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00:23:10,720 --> 00:23:14,720
but each chick was only fed
about once every three weeks.
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00:23:14,920 --> 00:23:18,200
Left to themselves for so long,
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00:23:18,280 --> 00:23:22,560
they've all gathered together
to form immense cr�ches.
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00:23:22,640 --> 00:23:26,200
This one contains about 50,000 chicks.
234
00:23:26,280 --> 00:23:31,720
You might think that this huge congregation
would make it almost impossible
235
00:23:31,800 --> 00:23:35,680
for a parent returning with food
to find its own chick.
236
00:23:35,760 --> 00:23:42,360
Not so - the fact is that parent and chick
can recognise one another's voice.
237
00:23:43,960 --> 00:23:47,960
(DIN OF CALLS AND WHISTLES)
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00:23:49,040 --> 00:23:54,720
A returning adult may spend hours
looking for its chick among such a crowd,
239
00:23:54,800 --> 00:23:57,160
for the young are inclined to wander.
240
00:24:00,280 --> 00:24:03,640
The chick will respond to its parent's call
241
00:24:03,800 --> 00:24:06,440
and the parent to the chick's whistle.
242
00:24:09,840 --> 00:24:12,800
Eventually they meet...
243
00:24:12,880 --> 00:24:16,440
(CHICK WHISTLES VERY LOUDLY)
244
00:24:16,600 --> 00:24:19,280
...but instead of feeding
the chick straight away,
245
00:24:19,360 --> 00:24:21,800
the adult leads it through the rookery,
246
00:24:21,880 --> 00:24:24,680
as if to test the bond between them.
247
00:24:27,040 --> 00:24:30,920
At last, in response
to its chick's plaintive entreaties,
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00:24:31,080 --> 00:24:34,480
the parent regurgitates a meal of squid.
249
00:24:49,160 --> 00:24:53,280
A King penguin chick
takes more than 12 months to rear,
250
00:24:53,360 --> 00:24:56,440
so the adults can't breed annually.
251
00:24:56,560 --> 00:24:59,800
At best, they raise two chicks
every three years.
252
00:24:59,960 --> 00:25:03,160
Because of this,
the breeding cycle of any one pair
253
00:25:03,240 --> 00:25:06,600
slides out of phase with the seasons.
254
00:25:06,760 --> 00:25:08,640
So now, late in winter,
255
00:25:08,720 --> 00:25:10,760
there are chicks both young and old
256
00:25:10,840 --> 00:25:13,960
and adults at different stages in their cycle.
257
00:25:14,120 --> 00:25:18,040
Some of the adults are going
through their pre-breeding moult
258
00:25:18,120 --> 00:25:21,760
before going to sea
to fatten up for courtship.
259
00:25:21,920 --> 00:25:24,760
Others are already courting,
260
00:25:24,920 --> 00:25:28,880
parading back and forth
with a special ritualised walk.
261
00:25:53,280 --> 00:25:55,920
The male usually leads.
262
00:25:58,720 --> 00:26:01,760
If the female is sufficiently impressed,
263
00:26:01,840 --> 00:26:05,600
the pair seal their relationship
with a vocal duet.
264
00:26:05,680 --> 00:26:10,360
(MALE AND FEMALE
TAKE IT IN TURNS TO CALL)
265
00:26:23,160 --> 00:26:27,320
King penguin rookeries are very busy places.
266
00:26:27,400 --> 00:26:29,440
Every morning at about six o'clock,
267
00:26:29,600 --> 00:26:31,680
the adults leave their chicks,
268
00:26:31,760 --> 00:26:33,840
cross the glacier stream
269
00:26:34,000 --> 00:26:36,080
and march down to the sea.
270
00:26:41,840 --> 00:26:44,840
They like to take an early morning bath,
271
00:26:44,920 --> 00:26:49,320
getting rid of the smelly mud
and grime of the crowded colony.
272
00:27:21,880 --> 00:27:24,160
For an hour or so,
273
00:27:24,240 --> 00:27:26,280
they wash in the surf.
274
00:27:45,400 --> 00:27:49,200
These penguins seem to have
a fairly easy time of it,
275
00:27:49,280 --> 00:27:51,800
surrounded by an ocean laden with food
276
00:27:51,880 --> 00:27:54,880
and with year-round access
to their breeding beaches.
277
00:27:54,960 --> 00:27:57,960
But they are one of the few
of Antarctica's inhabitants
278
00:27:58,040 --> 00:28:01,800
to achieve independence from the factor
that governs almost everything else -
279
00:28:01,960 --> 00:28:05,240
the advance and retreat of the sea ice.
280
00:28:06,400 --> 00:28:11,280
King penguin and albatross live only
on the frontier of the Antarctic.
281
00:28:11,360 --> 00:28:15,360
They never go closer to the pole
than the edge of the sea ice.
282
00:28:15,440 --> 00:28:17,560
Next week, we will.
283
00:28:17,640 --> 00:28:19,640
As spring really takes hold,
284
00:28:19,720 --> 00:28:23,080
we will follow the retreating sea ice
to the shores of the continent
285
00:28:23,160 --> 00:28:27,080
and go up to the great ice cap,
to the very heart of the Antarctic,
286
00:28:27,160 --> 00:28:31,400
where life in the freezer
faces its greatest challenge.
287
00:28:31,450 --> 00:28:36,000
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