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00:00:01,902 --> 00:00:07,040
DEEP IN THE KALAHARI DESERT,
AN OASIS OF LIFE ABOUNDS.
2
00:00:07,074 --> 00:00:09,944
IT’S A PLACE STEEPED IN HISTORY,
3
00:00:09,977 --> 00:00:16,283
FROM EARLY CIVILIZATIONS TO
MYTHOLOGICAL ROCK ENGRAVINGS.
4
00:00:16,316 --> 00:00:17,984
GLITTERING CITIES NOW STAND
5
00:00:18,018 --> 00:00:22,222
WHERE EXPLORERS ONCE
TREKKED ON FOOT.
6
00:00:22,256 --> 00:00:25,059
AND WATER CHANNELS SURGE
THROUGH PARCHED SAND
7
00:00:25,092 --> 00:00:29,263
WHERE FISH EAGLES STILL SOAR.
8
00:00:29,296 --> 00:00:33,300
THE DESERT ERUPTS
INTO AN EXPLOSION OF LIFE...
9
00:00:33,333 --> 00:00:36,102
AS MODERN AIRCRAFT GLIDE IN
10
00:00:36,136 --> 00:00:39,373
AND TOURISTS HAVE
THE BEST SAFARI ON EARTH.
11
00:00:39,406 --> 00:00:41,541
FROM THUNDERING
HERDS OF ANIMALS,
12
00:00:41,575 --> 00:00:44,111
TO FLOCKS OF MIGRATORY BIRDS,
13
00:00:44,144 --> 00:00:49,149
THIS IS THE WILD AND WONDERFUL
WORLD OF BOTSWANA.
14
00:00:49,182 --> 00:00:54,054
♪
15
00:00:58,825 --> 00:01:00,660
THIS IS ONE OF THE MOST
UNFORGIVING
16
00:01:00,694 --> 00:01:02,696
AND DESOLATE PLACES ON EARTH.
17
00:01:02,729 --> 00:01:08,468
♪
18
00:01:08,502 --> 00:01:12,673
THE KALAHARI DESERT.
19
00:01:12,706 --> 00:01:15,542
IT HARBORS THE LARGEST
SAND BASIN IN THE WORLD,
20
00:01:15,576 --> 00:01:19,880
WHICH SPANS
460,000 SQUARE MILES.
21
00:01:21,982 --> 00:01:23,750
THE BASIN IS SO VAST;
22
00:01:23,784 --> 00:01:25,152
IT EXTENDS THROUGH ABOUT
23
00:01:25,185 --> 00:01:26,820
20 DEGREES OF LATITUDE,
24
00:01:26,853 --> 00:01:27,854
AND CUTS ACROSS
25
00:01:27,888 --> 00:01:31,825
SIX AFRICAN COUNTRIES.
26
00:01:31,858 --> 00:01:32,859
GEMSTONES BUILT
27
00:01:32,893 --> 00:01:34,528
THE COUNTRY OF BOTSWANA,
28
00:01:34,561 --> 00:01:39,533
AND ONE LIFE-GIVING TREASURE
CONTINUES TO SHAPE ITS CULTURE.
29
00:01:41,268 --> 00:01:43,437
FOR AT LEAST 40,000 YEARS,
30
00:01:43,470 --> 00:01:45,605
THE ONLY HUMANS TO
SURVIVE THE DESERT
31
00:01:45,639 --> 00:01:48,809
WERE THE SAN HUNTER-GATHERERS.
32
00:01:48,842 --> 00:01:50,444
THEY WERE A NOMADIC PEOPLE
33
00:01:50,477 --> 00:01:55,782
WHO FOLLOWED THE SEASONAL FLOW
OF WATER AND LARGE ANIMAL HERDS.
34
00:01:55,816 --> 00:01:59,253
THEY LIVED IN TEMPORARY
STRUCTURES LIKE THIS ONE,
35
00:01:59,286 --> 00:02:00,954
BUILT WITH NATURAL MATERIALS
36
00:02:00,988 --> 00:02:04,492
EASY TO FIND AND
FAST TO DISMANTLE.
37
00:02:04,524 --> 00:02:06,860
THEY CALLED THE DESERT
KGALAGADI--
38
00:02:06,893 --> 00:02:08,461
LAND OF THIRST.
39
00:02:08,495 --> 00:02:13,467
AND THE NAME HOLDS NO SURPRISES.
40
00:02:13,500 --> 00:02:16,069
RAINFALL IS LESS THAN
SIX INCHES A YEAR,
41
00:02:16,103 --> 00:02:21,342
AND TEMPERATURES CAN TOP
130 DEGREES.
42
00:02:21,375 --> 00:02:25,946
IT WAS UNKNOWN TO
THE OUTSIDE WORLD UNTIL 1841,
43
00:02:25,979 --> 00:02:29,883
WHEN DR. DAVID LIVINGSTONE,
A SCOTTISH MISSIONARY DOCTOR,
44
00:02:29,916 --> 00:02:33,787
WAS SENT TO BOTSWANA TO SPREAD
THE CHRISTIAN FAITH.
45
00:02:36,189 --> 00:02:41,061
HIS THIRD MISSION STATION IN
BOTSWANA WAS HERE IN KOLOBENG,
46
00:02:41,094 --> 00:02:44,598
AT THE EDGE
OF THE KALAHARI DESERT.
47
00:02:44,631 --> 00:02:48,935
HERE HE BUILT BOTSWANA’S FIRST
SCHOOL, CHURCH, CLINIC,
48
00:02:48,969 --> 00:02:50,671
AND FOUR-CORNERED HOUSE
49
00:02:50,704 --> 00:02:54,474
IN 1847.
50
00:02:54,508 --> 00:02:57,878
IT WAS THE SITE
OF A TERRIBLE TRAGEDY.
51
00:02:57,911 --> 00:02:59,312
AT THE HEIGHT OF A DROUGHT,
52
00:02:59,346 --> 00:03:04,852
LIVINGSTONE LOST HIS INFANT
DAUGHTER TO BRONCHITIS.
53
00:03:04,885 --> 00:03:08,489
THEN A CONFLICT BETWEEN
EUROPEAN SETTLERS, THE BOERS,
54
00:03:08,522 --> 00:03:11,258
AND THE LOCAL BAKWENA
CAUSED AN ANGRY MOB
55
00:03:11,291 --> 00:03:16,062
TO BURN DOWN THE MISSION
AND SURROUNDING SETTLEMENT.
56
00:03:16,096 --> 00:03:18,231
HE SENT HIS FAMILY BACK HOME
TO ENGLAND
57
00:03:18,265 --> 00:03:21,101
AND ABANDONED THIS MISSION.
58
00:03:21,134 --> 00:03:23,303
BUT IT WAS A SMALL BUMP
IN THE ROAD
59
00:03:23,336 --> 00:03:26,339
FOR A MAN WHO WAS PREPARED
TO RISK LIFE AND LIMB
60
00:03:26,373 --> 00:03:28,675
TO ABOLISH SLAVERY,
61
00:03:28,709 --> 00:03:32,780
AND HE HAD WON GREAT RESPECT
FROM LOCAL TRIBES.
62
00:03:34,514 --> 00:03:36,583
THE SAN HUNTER-GATHERERS
TOLD LIVINGSTONE
63
00:03:36,616 --> 00:03:41,354
ABOUT A VAST BODY OF WATER THAT
LAY IN THE HEART OF THE DESERT.
64
00:03:41,388 --> 00:03:44,658
LIVINGSTONE LAUNCHED
HIS NEXT MISSION.
65
00:03:44,691 --> 00:03:45,926
HE WAS LED TO A RIVERBED
66
00:03:45,959 --> 00:03:49,796
SAID TO BE THE CORRIDOR
TO THE VAST LAKE.
67
00:03:52,099 --> 00:03:55,569
IT’S CALLED THE BOTETI,
68
00:03:55,602 --> 00:03:57,604
AND AT 1,000 FEET ACROSS,
69
00:03:57,637 --> 00:04:00,039
THE RIVER SUPPORTS COMMUNITIES
AND AGRICULTURE
70
00:04:00,073 --> 00:04:03,476
ALONG ITS FLANKS.
71
00:04:03,510 --> 00:04:07,714
BUT IN LIVINGSTONE’S DAY,
IT WAS NOTHING BUT DUST.
72
00:04:09,616 --> 00:04:15,622
IT TOOK HIM NINE WEEKS TO
NAVIGATE THE 600 MILES OF DESERT
73
00:04:15,655 --> 00:04:17,190
WITH THE HELP OF TRIBESMEN,
74
00:04:17,224 --> 00:04:22,229
HORSES AND 80 OXEN RAISED
IN THESE TRADITIONAL HOMESTEADS.
75
00:04:24,998 --> 00:04:27,000
BUT THE HEAT WAS DREADFUL.
76
00:04:27,033 --> 00:04:29,536
ANIMALS TRUDGED ALONG
HAULING HEAVY CARTS
77
00:04:29,569 --> 00:04:33,740
THROUGH THE DESERT SAND;
MANY DIED OF THIRST.
78
00:04:35,776 --> 00:04:37,211
TO ADD TO HIS TROUBLES,
79
00:04:37,244 --> 00:04:40,347
LIVINGSTONE’S SAN GUIDE
FREQUENTLY LOST HIS WAY
80
00:04:40,380 --> 00:04:42,582
IN THE DIZZYING HEAT.
81
00:04:42,616 --> 00:04:44,952
AS THEY CONTEMPLATED
THEIR NEXT MOVE,
82
00:04:44,985 --> 00:04:49,823
THEY SPOTTED SMALL CLUMPS
OF TREES ON THE HORIZON.
83
00:04:49,856 --> 00:04:52,892
BUT THE DISTANCE WAS DECEIVING.
84
00:04:52,926 --> 00:04:55,495
THE EXPLORERS THEN REALIZED
THEY WERE WALKING TOWARDS
85
00:04:55,529 --> 00:04:59,867
AN ISLAND OF MYSTERIOUS
GIANTS...
86
00:04:59,900 --> 00:05:03,670
THESE ANCIENT BAOBAB TREES.
87
00:05:03,703 --> 00:05:07,574
THE TREES SURVIVE BY STORING
UP TO 37,000 GALLONS OF WATER
88
00:05:07,607 --> 00:05:09,509
IN THEIR TRUNKS.
89
00:05:09,543 --> 00:05:14,081
IT SAVED THE THIRSTY EXPLORERS
FROM CERTAIN DEATH.
90
00:05:14,114 --> 00:05:17,250
THEY HARVESTED WATER FROM
THE CLEFTS OF LARGE BRANCHES
91
00:05:17,284 --> 00:05:21,555
AND CHEWED THE SPONGY
BARK FOR MOISTURE.
92
00:05:21,588 --> 00:05:24,458
ONE OF LIVINGSTONE’S FELLOW
EXPLORERS, THOMAS BAINES,
93
00:05:24,491 --> 00:05:26,393
WAS A VICTORIAN ARTIST.
94
00:05:26,426 --> 00:05:29,396
HE USED LESS THAN A GALLON
OF WATER AND PAINT COLOR
95
00:05:29,429 --> 00:05:33,733
TO PRESERVE THESE TREES
IN PAINTINGS.
96
00:05:33,767 --> 00:05:38,238
THE EXPLORERS OFTEN FACED
EXTREME HUNGER, THIRST, ILLNESS,
97
00:05:38,271 --> 00:05:41,741
AND GUIDES TAKING OFF
WITH SUPPLIES.
98
00:05:41,775 --> 00:05:45,178
BUT DESPITE ALL THE DIFFICULTY,
BAINES WROTE,
99
00:05:45,212 --> 00:05:48,182
"I CONFESS I CAN NEVER QUITE
GET OVER THE FEELING
100
00:05:48,215 --> 00:05:50,284
THAT THE WONDERFUL
PRODUCTS OF NATURE
101
00:05:50,317 --> 00:05:54,454
ARE OBJECTS TO BE ADMIRED
RATHER THAN DESTROYED."
102
00:05:57,290 --> 00:06:00,426
BAINES WOULD BE PROUD TO KNOW
THAT THESE TREES HAVEN’T CHANGED
103
00:06:00,460 --> 00:06:04,664
SINCE HE IMMORTALIZED THEM
150 YEARS AGO.
104
00:06:06,633 --> 00:06:09,269
MODERN EXPLORERS NOW
RETRACE THEIR STEPS
105
00:06:09,302 --> 00:06:12,705
AND REVEL IN THIS
TIMELESS DESERT.
106
00:06:16,309 --> 00:06:19,412
THEIR TRUCKS CRUNCH TRACKS
INTO AN ANCIENT LAKEBED
107
00:06:19,446 --> 00:06:21,181
AS THEY HEAD SOUTHWEST,
108
00:06:21,214 --> 00:06:25,318
EVENTUALLY REACHING AN ISLAND
RISING OUT OF THE SAND.
109
00:06:27,520 --> 00:06:31,190
IT’S CALLED KUBU ISLAND.
110
00:06:31,224 --> 00:06:32,859
KUBU MEANS HIPPO
111
00:06:32,893 --> 00:06:37,631
AND SPEAKS OF A TIME WHEN THE
GREAT LAKE LAPPED ITS SHORES.
112
00:06:37,664 --> 00:06:40,367
NOW A GHOSTLY SILENCE
HANGS IN THE AIR
113
00:06:40,400 --> 00:06:44,771
WHERE WATERBIRDS ONCE FLOCKED.
114
00:06:44,804 --> 00:06:47,106
SOME ROCKS ARE COVERED
IN FOSSILIZED DUNG
115
00:06:47,140 --> 00:06:49,776
OF BIRDS THAT NESTED HERE.
116
00:06:51,478 --> 00:06:53,313
THESE BAOBABS HAVE
BEEN CARBON DATED
117
00:06:53,346 --> 00:06:55,949
TO OVER A THOUSAND YEARS OLD.
118
00:06:55,982 --> 00:06:58,651
A SAN LEGEND SAYS,
IN THE BEGINNING,
119
00:06:58,685 --> 00:07:04,124
GOD HANDED OUT SEEDS TO
ALL THE ANIMALS TO PLANT.
120
00:07:04,157 --> 00:07:05,792
THE HYENA WAS PICKED LAST,
121
00:07:05,825 --> 00:07:09,629
AND WAS SO MAD THAT HE PLANTED
THE BAOBAB UPSIDE DOWN
122
00:07:09,663 --> 00:07:13,167
WITH ROOTS EXPOSED.
123
00:07:13,199 --> 00:07:15,702
WHEN DAVID LIVINGSTONE ARRIVED
AT KUBU ISLAND,
124
00:07:15,735 --> 00:07:17,003
HIS HUNGRY DESERT PARTY
125
00:07:17,037 --> 00:07:21,942
THOUGHT THEY LOOKED JUST LIKE
UPSIDE DOWN CARROTS.
126
00:07:21,975 --> 00:07:25,345
IN THE COOL DUSK, THEY
DISCOVERED BAOBAB SEEDPODS
127
00:07:25,378 --> 00:07:26,813
PACKED WITH WHITE FRUIT,
128
00:07:26,846 --> 00:07:31,517
LIKE MANNA PROVIDED BY GOD
TO NOURISH THE HUNGRY MEN.
129
00:07:33,720 --> 00:07:35,722
IT OFFERED HIGH DOSES
OF VITAMIN C
130
00:07:35,755 --> 00:07:38,791
AND OTHER MINERALS NECESSARY
FOR THEIR HEALTH.
131
00:07:38,825 --> 00:07:41,328
THE WHITE, CREAMY SNACKS
WERE A SOOTHING TREAT
132
00:07:41,361 --> 00:07:44,197
WHILE TRAVERSING
THESE ARID PLAINS.
133
00:07:47,434 --> 00:07:50,871
AS LIVINGSTONE’S PARTY ETCHED
TRACKS ACROSS THE DRY EARTH,
134
00:07:50,904 --> 00:07:53,473
HE RECORDED HIS TRAVELS
IN DUSTY JOURNALS
135
00:07:53,506 --> 00:07:58,411
AND WAS A PIONEER IN MAPPING
THIS DESOLATE PLACE.
136
00:07:58,445 --> 00:08:02,149
BY 1849 LIVINGSTONE HAD BECOME
THE FIRST EUROPEAN
137
00:08:02,182 --> 00:08:06,053
TO CROSS THE KALAHARI DESERT.
138
00:08:06,086 --> 00:08:08,055
THE TALES OF HIS TRAVELS
WERE CELEBRATED
139
00:08:08,088 --> 00:08:13,594
WITH THE SAME WONDER
AS SPACE TRAVEL IS TODAY.
140
00:08:13,626 --> 00:08:17,263
THE BRITISH HAILED HIM
AS A NATIONAL HERO.
141
00:08:17,297 --> 00:08:18,965
BUT LIVINGSTONE WOULD NOT REST
142
00:08:18,999 --> 00:08:23,637
UNTIL HE FOUND THE FAMED
DESERT OASIS TO THE NORTH.
143
00:08:23,670 --> 00:08:26,773
HE SHARED THE GOSPEL
WITH AFRICANS AS HE TRAVELED.
144
00:08:26,806 --> 00:08:31,611
HIS TEACHINGS OF LOVE AND GRACE
WON THE HEARTS OF LOCAL TRIBES.
145
00:08:31,644 --> 00:08:36,382
♪
146
00:08:36,416 --> 00:08:40,086
THE KING OF THE BANGWATO TRIBE,
KHAMA THE THIRD,
147
00:08:40,120 --> 00:08:45,025
CONVERTED TO CHRISTIANITY
AND BUILT THIS CHURCH.
148
00:08:45,058 --> 00:08:48,295
BUT IN 1902 THE TRIBE MOVED
TO THEIR CAPITAL,
149
00:08:48,328 --> 00:08:52,933
AND THE CHURCH WAS DISMANTLED
TO BUILD A SCHOOL.
150
00:08:52,966 --> 00:08:58,205
KING KHAMA PLAYED A SIGNIFICANT
ROLE IN BOTSWANA’S HISTORY.
151
00:08:58,238 --> 00:09:03,944
UNDER HIS LEADERSHIP BOTSWANA
BECAME A BRITISH PROTECTORATE.
152
00:09:03,977 --> 00:09:09,683
HIS GRANDSON SERETSE KHAMA
WAS SENT TO SCHOOL IN ENGLAND.
153
00:09:09,716 --> 00:09:12,752
HE GREW UP TO LEAD THE COUNTRY
TO FULL INDEPENDENCE,
154
00:09:12,786 --> 00:09:17,324
BECOMING BOTSWANA’S
FIRST PRESIDENT IN 1966.
155
00:09:18,992 --> 00:09:23,330
IT WAS ONE OF THE MOST PEACEFUL
TRANSITIONS IN AFRICAN HISTORY.
156
00:09:23,363 --> 00:09:28,201
HE LIVED UP TO HIS NAME, WHICH
MEANS "THE CLAY THAT BINDS."
157
00:09:30,737 --> 00:09:34,074
TODAY RURAL VILLAGES
LIKE THIS ONE AT MANYANA
158
00:09:34,107 --> 00:09:36,910
GRAPPLE WITH POVERTY.
159
00:09:36,943 --> 00:09:41,047
BUT IN 1966 BOTSWANA WAS ONE
OF THE TEN POOREST COUNTRIES
160
00:09:41,081 --> 00:09:42,749
IN THE WORLD.
161
00:09:42,782 --> 00:09:46,986
THERE WERE NO HIGH SCHOOLS,
INDUSTRY OR ECONOMY TO SPEAK OF.
162
00:09:47,020 --> 00:09:52,659
IN THE ENTIRE COUNTRY THERE WERE
ONLY FIVE MILES OF PAVED ROADS.
163
00:09:52,692 --> 00:09:56,296
BUT IN 1967 THE YOUNG NATION
DISCOVERED A TREASURE
164
00:09:56,329 --> 00:09:58,998
THAT WOULD DAZZLE THE WORLD.
165
00:09:59,032 --> 00:10:01,401
PROSPECTING IN
AN ANCIENT VOLCANO,
166
00:10:01,434 --> 00:10:07,040
THE DE BEERS COMPANY FOUND
A RICH VEIN OF GEMSTONES.
167
00:10:07,073 --> 00:10:08,474
ROCKS BLASTED FROM THE PIT
168
00:10:08,508 --> 00:10:11,845
SPARKLED WITH DIAMONDS
OF INCREDIBLE CLARITY.
169
00:10:11,878 --> 00:10:14,781
IT’S NOW THE WORLD’S LARGEST
DIAMOND MINE,
170
00:10:14,814 --> 00:10:16,983
SPANNING OVER 300 ACRES,
171
00:10:17,016 --> 00:10:22,154
AND STILL PRODUCES 19 BILLION
CARATS OF DIAMONDS A YEAR.
172
00:10:24,090 --> 00:10:29,162
IN 2015 MINERS FOUND A DIAMOND
THE SIZE OF A TENNIS BALL.
173
00:10:29,195 --> 00:10:32,465
IT WEIGHED OVER
A THOUSAND CARATS.
174
00:10:32,499 --> 00:10:34,501
BOTSWANA’S LOVE AFFAIR
WITH DIAMONDS
175
00:10:34,534 --> 00:10:39,139
HAS MADE IT ONE OF THE
WEALTHIEST NATIONS IN AFRICA.
176
00:10:39,172 --> 00:10:41,875
THE GLAMOROUS FACETS
OF GEMSTONES ARE REFLECTED
177
00:10:41,908 --> 00:10:46,913
IN THE SKYLINE OF
THE NATION’S CAPITAL...
178
00:10:46,946 --> 00:10:48,781
GABORONE.
179
00:10:48,815 --> 00:10:50,950
IT WAS BUILT HERE DUE
TO ITS PROXIMITY
180
00:10:50,984 --> 00:10:57,257
TO THE TRANSCONTINENTAL RAILWAY
AND A RELIABLE WATER SOURCE.
181
00:10:57,290 --> 00:11:02,428
BUT CHASING WATER IN BOTSWANA
CAN BE A DANGEROUS DECEPTION.
182
00:11:02,462 --> 00:11:08,435
♪
183
00:11:08,468 --> 00:11:10,003
THOUSANDS OF YEARS AGO
184
00:11:10,036 --> 00:11:13,306
THIS DUSTY VALLEY
BRIMMED WITH WATER.
185
00:11:14,908 --> 00:11:17,344
IT’S NOW KNOWN
AS DECEPTION VALLEY,
186
00:11:17,377 --> 00:11:20,614
THE TWILIGHT ZONE
OF THE KALAHARI.
187
00:11:22,615 --> 00:11:26,085
MYSTERIOUS LAKES ON THIS HORIZON
LURED THIRSTY EXPLORERS
188
00:11:26,119 --> 00:11:30,023
INTO THE VALLEY’S SILENT DEPTHS.
189
00:11:30,056 --> 00:11:34,761
DESPERATE MEN STOOD STUNNED
IN THE DEAFENING SILENCE.
190
00:11:34,794 --> 00:11:36,629
THEY HAD BEEN CONNED
BY HEAT WAVES
191
00:11:36,663 --> 00:11:39,499
MASQUERADING AS WATER.
192
00:11:41,467 --> 00:11:44,003
THEIR SKIN WAS BLISTERED
BY THE DRY HEAT,
193
00:11:44,037 --> 00:11:46,072
AND THOSE TOO THIRSTY
TO MAKE A RETREAT
194
00:11:46,105 --> 00:11:49,241
PERISHED ON THE CRACKED EARTH.
195
00:11:50,710 --> 00:11:52,979
THIS PHENOMENON
STILL OCCURS TODAY
196
00:11:53,012 --> 00:11:56,983
AND DECEIVES EVEN THE MOST
EXPERIENCED ADVENTURERS.
197
00:11:59,018 --> 00:12:02,455
BUT THE CONDITIONS THAT PROVE
MURDEROUS FOR EXPLORERS
198
00:12:02,488 --> 00:12:05,758
IS A BLESSING FOR WILDLIFE.
199
00:12:05,792 --> 00:12:07,460
DECEPTION VALLEY NOW LIES WITHIN
200
00:12:07,493 --> 00:12:10,796
THE CENTRAL KALAHARI
GAME RESERVE.
201
00:12:10,830 --> 00:12:15,001
IT’S THE SECOND LARGEST RESERVE
IN THE WORLD.
202
00:12:15,034 --> 00:12:16,435
THE HARSH CLIMATE HAS MADE IT
203
00:12:16,469 --> 00:12:21,641
ONE OF THE MOST PRISTINE
WILD SPACES ON THE PLANET.
204
00:12:21,674 --> 00:12:23,743
LARGE BREEDING HERDS
OF ELEPHANTS
205
00:12:23,776 --> 00:12:27,246
REQUIRE TONS OF VEGETATION
TO PROVIDE SUFFICIENT MILK
206
00:12:27,280 --> 00:12:31,251
FOR YOUNG CALVES TO SURVIVE.
207
00:12:31,284 --> 00:12:33,887
THIS ABUNDANCE MAKES IT
A PERFECT SANCTUARY
208
00:12:33,920 --> 00:12:36,055
FOR THE SAN HUNTER-GATHERERS
209
00:12:36,089 --> 00:12:40,026
WHO STILL HUNT FOR FOOD
WITH A BOW AND ARROW.
210
00:12:40,059 --> 00:12:42,361
BUT MODERN CULTURE
IS PUTTING A SQUEEZE
211
00:12:42,395 --> 00:12:45,031
ON THE SAN WAY OF LIFE.
212
00:12:48,901 --> 00:12:52,004
THE MANYANA HILLS,
A SACRED SAN SITE,
213
00:12:52,038 --> 00:12:55,708
BEARS TESTAMENT
TO THE DISAPPEARING TRIBE.
214
00:12:59,045 --> 00:13:04,384
THESE GRANITE BOULDERS ARE
DECORATED IN ANCIENT ROCK ART.
215
00:13:04,417 --> 00:13:07,053
BEAUTIFUL PAINTINGS SKETCHED
ON THE ROCK FACE
216
00:13:07,086 --> 00:13:12,425
SHOW A DETAILED RECORD OF WHAT
LIFE WAS LIKE 2,000 YEARS AGO.
217
00:13:15,395 --> 00:13:17,163
BUT THE SAN AREN’T
THE ONLY PEOPLE
218
00:13:17,196 --> 00:13:20,299
WHO LEFT AN IMPRESSION
IN BOTSWANA.
219
00:13:20,333 --> 00:13:25,171
♪
220
00:13:25,204 --> 00:13:28,541
BOTSWANA IS NAMED AFTER
THE TSWANA PEOPLE,
221
00:13:28,574 --> 00:13:32,812
AND LEGEND HAS IT
THAT IT ALL STARTED HERE.
222
00:13:34,714 --> 00:13:37,750
A ONE-LEGGED GIANT
CALLED MATSIENG,
223
00:13:37,784 --> 00:13:39,986
SAID TO BE A TSWANA ANCESTOR,
224
00:13:40,019 --> 00:13:43,489
LED HIS PEOPLE FROM
THE CENTER OF THE EARTH.
225
00:13:46,159 --> 00:13:48,161
HE EMERGED AT THIS FOOTPRINT,
226
00:13:48,194 --> 00:13:50,730
A NATURAL ROCK FORMATION
BELIEVED TO BE
227
00:13:50,763 --> 00:13:56,168
BETWEEN 3,000 AND
10,000 YEARS OLD.
228
00:13:56,202 --> 00:14:00,406
THIS FOOTPRINT IS PRESERVED
IN SOLID ROCK AND FOLK LAW,
229
00:14:00,440 --> 00:14:04,878
BUT THE SAN HUNTER-GATHERERS
FACE A LESS CERTAIN FUTURE.
230
00:14:04,911 --> 00:14:11,284
♪
231
00:14:11,317 --> 00:14:14,353
50 YEARS AGO,
5,000 SAN LIVED HERE
232
00:14:14,387 --> 00:14:16,923
IN THE CENTRAL KALAHARI RESERVE.
233
00:14:16,956 --> 00:14:21,561
NOW, AFTER A CONTROVERSIAL
RELOCATION MOVEMENT IN 2005,
234
00:14:21,594 --> 00:14:25,865
ONLY 300 REMAIN.
235
00:14:25,898 --> 00:14:29,335
THEY NOW STRADDLE THE DIVIDE
BETWEEN ANCIENT TRADITION
236
00:14:29,369 --> 00:14:33,373
AND THE NEW WORLD POPPING UP
AROUND THEM.
237
00:14:33,406 --> 00:14:34,874
SOME EARN EXTRA CASH
238
00:14:34,907 --> 00:14:37,209
BY PERFORMING
CULTURAL SPIRIT DANCES
239
00:14:37,243 --> 00:14:40,113
AND SELLING CRAFTS
TO WEALTHY VISITORS.
240
00:14:40,146 --> 00:14:42,682
OTHERS ARE SAFARI GUIDES.
241
00:14:42,715 --> 00:14:46,953
THEY WORK THE RESERVE’S
51,800 SQUARE MILES
242
00:14:46,986 --> 00:14:50,590
IN SEARCH OF THE LEGENDARY
KALAHARI BLACK-MANED LIONS
243
00:14:50,623 --> 00:14:54,827
WHOSE FAVORITE PREY
IS THE BLUE WILDEBEEST.
244
00:14:54,861 --> 00:14:57,630
VULTURES TRAVEL HUNDREDS
OF MILES EVERY DAY
245
00:14:57,663 --> 00:15:00,866
TO FEED ON CARCASSES
LEFT BY LIONS.
246
00:15:00,900 --> 00:15:03,770
THEY WASH OFF AT WATERHOLES
LIKE THIS,
247
00:15:03,803 --> 00:15:07,707
AND THEN THE STUFFED BIRDS WAIT
FOR A PERFECTLY TIMED UPDRAFT
248
00:15:07,740 --> 00:15:10,209
TO GIVE THEM A LIFT.
249
00:15:11,778 --> 00:15:14,681
THESE MASTER AVIATORS
SPIRAL SKYWARD
250
00:15:14,714 --> 00:15:19,452
BEFORE GLIDING EAST
TO THE MOREMI GORGE.
251
00:15:19,485 --> 00:15:24,223
IT’S A REFRESHMENT STATION
FOR NATURE’S CLEANUP CREW.
252
00:15:24,257 --> 00:15:26,059
THE GORGE WAS CARVED
INTO THE HILLS
253
00:15:26,092 --> 00:15:30,330
BY SEASONAL RIVERS FED
FROM NATURAL SPRINGS.
254
00:15:30,363 --> 00:15:32,999
IT’S KNOWN FOR ITS INCREDIBLE
ROCK FORMATIONS,
255
00:15:33,032 --> 00:15:36,903
SOME UP TO FOUR BILLION
YEARS OLD.
256
00:15:36,936 --> 00:15:39,572
HERE WATERFALLS TUMBLE
INTO ROCK POOLS
257
00:15:39,605 --> 00:15:41,640
SURROUNDED BY LUSH FERNS,
258
00:15:41,674 --> 00:15:44,911
A RARE DESERT FEATURE.
259
00:15:44,944 --> 00:15:46,879
WHITE STAINS
OF VULTURE DROPPINGS
260
00:15:46,913 --> 00:15:49,849
GIVE AWAY THEIR OVERNIGHT
ROOSTING SPOTS.
261
00:15:49,882 --> 00:15:52,885
AT FIRST LIGHT
THEY READ THE WINDS.
262
00:15:52,919 --> 00:15:56,456
IF THE CONDITIONS ARE GOOD, THEY
LEAVE THE SAFETY OF THE GORGE,
263
00:15:56,489 --> 00:15:59,692
HEADING NORTH TO
THE NXAI PAN RESERVE,
264
00:15:59,725 --> 00:16:01,327
WHERE HERDS OF ANIMALS GATHER
265
00:16:01,360 --> 00:16:05,531
IN ANTICIPATION
OF MUCH NEEDED RAIN.
266
00:16:05,565 --> 00:16:08,935
TOURISTS REGISTER FOR ENTRY
AT THE PARK GATE.
267
00:16:08,968 --> 00:16:11,370
ALL VEHICLES MUST BE
ACCOUNTED FOR;
268
00:16:11,404 --> 00:16:15,475
A BREAKDOWN IN THIS VAST PARK
COULD PROVE FATAL.
269
00:16:19,078 --> 00:16:22,748
THE GAME RESERVE IS
A 15-SQUARE-MILE FOSSIL LAKEBED
270
00:16:22,782 --> 00:16:26,452
SURROUNDED BY GRASSLAND
AND BUSH.
271
00:16:26,486 --> 00:16:28,855
WHEN IT RAINS, THE DRY LAKE
IS TRANSFORMED
272
00:16:28,888 --> 00:16:32,158
INTO A MASSIVE BODY OF WATER,
273
00:16:32,191 --> 00:16:36,729
DRAWING IN STAGGERING HERDS
OF ZEBRA, ELEPHANTS, ANTELOPE,
274
00:16:36,762 --> 00:16:38,597
AND HUNGRY PREDATORS.
275
00:16:38,631 --> 00:16:41,868
EVAPORATION IS EXTREME,
AND WATER LEVELS DROP
276
00:16:41,901 --> 00:16:45,505
BY AS MUCH AS SEVEN FEET
IN A YEAR.
277
00:16:45,538 --> 00:16:49,809
THAT’S NEARLY HALF THE HEIGHT
OF A FULL-GROWN GIRAFFE.
278
00:16:49,842 --> 00:16:52,311
THAT’S WHY MOST DESERT ANIMALS
HAVE ADAPTED
279
00:16:52,345 --> 00:16:56,950
TO SURVIVE ON MOISTURE
FROM VEGETATION.
280
00:16:56,983 --> 00:16:59,352
GIRAFFES SPEND ABOUT
80% OF THEIR DAY
281
00:16:59,385 --> 00:17:01,654
FEEDING ON THE SMALL
ACACIA TREES
282
00:17:01,687 --> 00:17:04,456
ALONG THE EDGE OF THE PANS.
283
00:17:04,490 --> 00:17:06,792
THEY CAN LAST
FOR OVER THREE WEEKS
284
00:17:06,826 --> 00:17:08,161
WITHOUT DRINKING WATER,
285
00:17:08,194 --> 00:17:12,265
EVEN LONGER THAN A CAMEL.
286
00:17:12,298 --> 00:17:17,336
BUT ELEPHANTS NEED GALLONS
OF WATER TO SURVIVE.
287
00:17:17,370 --> 00:17:20,473
MATRIARCHS LEAD THE HERD
TO SECRET WATER STASHES
288
00:17:20,506 --> 00:17:24,910
DUG OPEN BY THEIR ANCESTORS.
289
00:17:24,944 --> 00:17:27,079
THEY LUMBER BETWEEN
THIS WATER SOURCE
290
00:17:27,113 --> 00:17:28,848
AND THE DRY LAKES TO THE SOUTH,
291
00:17:28,881 --> 00:17:33,486
IN THE CENTRAL KALAHARI RESERVE.
292
00:17:33,519 --> 00:17:35,388
THEY DOMINATE THE WATERHOLE,
293
00:17:35,421 --> 00:17:39,258
SUCKING UP GALLONS OF WATER
IN THEIR TRUNKS.
294
00:17:39,292 --> 00:17:41,795
THEY HEAD OUT ON ANCIENT
MIGRATORY ROUTES
295
00:17:41,827 --> 00:17:44,463
SNIFFING THE AIR
FOR FRESHWATER.
296
00:17:44,497 --> 00:17:50,103
♪
297
00:17:50,136 --> 00:17:52,005
BUT TWO MILLION YEARS AGO,
298
00:17:52,038 --> 00:17:55,575
THEIR TRUNKS WOULD HAVE BEEN
MOST USEFUL AS SNORKELS.
299
00:17:55,608 --> 00:17:58,778
THIS WHOLE AREA WAS
A GIANT LAKE.
300
00:17:58,811 --> 00:18:01,447
THEN, 10,000 YEARS AGO,
301
00:18:01,480 --> 00:18:04,850
EARTHQUAKES STOPPED
THE FLOW OF RIVERS.
302
00:18:04,884 --> 00:18:10,156
THE LAKE STARVED, AND
FRESHWATER TURNED TO BRINE.
303
00:18:10,189 --> 00:18:14,994
IT FORMED SALT FLATS
THE SIZE OF PORTUGAL.
304
00:18:15,027 --> 00:18:16,695
THEY LOOK DEAD AS THE MOON,
305
00:18:16,729 --> 00:18:21,267
BUT MINERALS BURIED HERE
HELP BOTSWANA’S ECONOMY THRIVE.
306
00:18:23,002 --> 00:18:25,905
SODA ASH IS A VITAL
GLOBAL COMMODITY,
307
00:18:25,938 --> 00:18:28,407
AND THIS FACTORY IS ONE
OF THE LARGEST PRODUCERS
308
00:18:28,441 --> 00:18:31,044
OF THE CHEMICAL COMPOUND.
309
00:18:33,312 --> 00:18:36,081
IT’S MAINLY USED TO
MANUFACTURE GLASS,
310
00:18:36,115 --> 00:18:38,050
BUT MEDICINE AND
INDUSTRIAL CHEMICALS
311
00:18:38,084 --> 00:18:42,789
ARE OTHER APPLICATIONS
FOR SODA ASH.
312
00:18:42,822 --> 00:18:45,825
IT’S EXTRACTED BY PUMPING BRINE
OUT OF THE DEEP WELLS
313
00:18:45,858 --> 00:18:49,695
SUNK INTO UNDERGROUND AQUIFERS.
314
00:18:49,729 --> 00:18:51,197
FROM THERE IT MOVES
THROUGH A SERIES
315
00:18:51,230 --> 00:18:54,433
OF VAST EVAPORATION PONDS.
316
00:18:56,502 --> 00:19:00,039
THE FACTORY PRODUCES CLOSE
TO 800,000 TONS
317
00:19:00,072 --> 00:19:03,943
OF SODA ASH EVERY YEAR,
318
00:19:03,976 --> 00:19:07,847
AND LARGE QUANTITIES
OF PURE TABLE SALT.
319
00:19:07,880 --> 00:19:10,750
THESE TRUCKS COLLECT
THE RAW SALT AND DUMP IT HERE
320
00:19:10,783 --> 00:19:14,754
TO BE PROCESSED FOR
HUMAN CONSUMPTION.
321
00:19:14,787 --> 00:19:18,224
THIS GIANT FACTORY IS NECESSARY
TO PRODUCE MINERALS
322
00:19:18,257 --> 00:19:20,960
ON AN INDUSTRIAL SCALE.
323
00:19:20,993 --> 00:19:23,529
BUT THESE SMALL BUILDINGS
ARE CLUES
324
00:19:23,562 --> 00:19:28,133
TO A STORY OF A ONCE FAMOUS
MINING BOOMTOWN.
325
00:19:28,167 --> 00:19:36,342
♪
326
00:19:36,375 --> 00:19:41,280
IN 1865, RUMORS OF GOLD DEPOSITS
IN THE SOUTH OF BOTSWANA
327
00:19:41,313 --> 00:19:43,682
GARNERED INTERNATIONAL
ATTENTION.
328
00:19:43,716 --> 00:19:48,854
PROSPECTOR KARL MAUCH
SCOURED THE AREA FOR GOLD.
329
00:19:48,888 --> 00:19:52,692
HE DISCOVERED A GOLD FIELD
ON THE BANKS OF THE TATI RIVER.
330
00:19:52,725 --> 00:19:58,097
THE ALLUVION GOLD FIELD
STRETCHED FOR 80 MILES.
331
00:19:58,130 --> 00:20:00,666
IT WAS HAILED AS AFRICA’S OPHIR,
332
00:20:00,700 --> 00:20:04,304
A PLACE RENOWNED AS A SOURCE
OF LARGE QUANTITIES OF GOLD
333
00:20:04,336 --> 00:20:08,106
OF THE FINEST QUALITY
DURING BIBLICAL TIMES.
334
00:20:10,109 --> 00:20:12,144
PROSPECTORS FLOODED THE AREA,
335
00:20:12,178 --> 00:20:16,082
HAILING FROM AUSTRALIA
TO AMERICA.
336
00:20:16,115 --> 00:20:20,086
IN A FEW YEARS, A SMALL VILLAGE
ROSE ON THE BANKS OF THE RIVER
337
00:20:20,119 --> 00:20:23,556
AND WAS NAMED FRANCISTOWN.
338
00:20:23,589 --> 00:20:27,026
AT THE TIME, THE TOWN WAS
NOTHING BUT ONE MAIN STREET
339
00:20:27,059 --> 00:20:30,529
LINED WITH
WESTERN-STYLE SALOONS.
340
00:20:30,563 --> 00:20:34,200
BLUE JACKET STREET WAS THE
ORIGINAL ROAD THROUGH THE TOWN
341
00:20:34,233 --> 00:20:37,670
AND IS NAMED AFTER SAM ANDERSON,
342
00:20:37,703 --> 00:20:39,805
A PROSPECTOR WHO GAINED FAME
343
00:20:39,839 --> 00:20:43,309
FOR ALWAYS WEARING
HIS BLUE DENIM JACKET.
344
00:20:45,611 --> 00:20:46,812
DAVID LIVINGSTONE WAS LOOKING
345
00:20:46,846 --> 00:20:49,749
FOR A DIFFERENT
KIND OF TREASURE.
346
00:20:49,782 --> 00:20:53,653
THE DRY BOTETI RIVER WOULD
FINALLY LEAD HIM TO THE JEWEL
347
00:20:53,686 --> 00:20:56,489
HE HAD SO LONGED TO FIND.
348
00:20:59,058 --> 00:21:01,294
THE OKAVANGO DELTA IS KNOWN AS
349
00:21:01,327 --> 00:21:04,330
"THE RIVER THAT NEVER
FINDS THE SEA."
350
00:21:04,363 --> 00:21:10,636
EVERY YEAR, 12 BILLION TONS
OF WATER ENTERS THE DELTA.
351
00:21:10,669 --> 00:21:13,338
BEFORE IT DIES OUT,
THE RIVER FANS OUT
352
00:21:13,372 --> 00:21:16,575
INTO THE LARGEST INLAND OASIS
IN THE WORLD,
353
00:21:16,609 --> 00:21:20,713
AND SUSTAINS THE GREATEST
WILDLIFE SHOW ON EARTH.
354
00:21:20,746 --> 00:21:26,151
♪
355
00:21:26,185 --> 00:21:31,991
WHEN LIVINGSTONE SAW IT FOR THE
FIRST TIME, HE ALMOST COLLAPSED.
356
00:21:32,024 --> 00:21:33,359
HE WROTE,
357
00:21:33,392 --> 00:21:37,596
"THERE LAY SPREAD BEFORE ME
AN IMMENSE SHEET OF WATER,
358
00:21:37,630 --> 00:21:39,866
ONLY BOUNDED BY THE HORIZON--
359
00:21:39,899 --> 00:21:42,668
THE OBJECT OF MY AMBITION
FOR YEARS,
360
00:21:42,701 --> 00:21:45,704
AND FOR WHICH I HAD ABANDONED
HOME AND FRIENDS,
361
00:21:45,738 --> 00:21:48,307
AND RISKED MY LIFE."
362
00:21:52,478 --> 00:21:54,313
SINCE LIVINGSTONE’S DISCOVERY,
363
00:21:54,346 --> 00:21:57,783
THE DELTA HAS REMAINED
RELATIVELY UNCHANGED.
364
00:21:57,817 --> 00:22:02,355
BUT THE METHOD OF TRAVEL HAS
EVOLVED IN LEAPS AND BOUNDS.
365
00:22:04,557 --> 00:22:08,094
THIS IS MAUN, THE TOURIST
CAPITAL OF BOTSWANA
366
00:22:08,127 --> 00:22:11,263
AND THE NATION’S
THIRD LARGEST TOWN.
367
00:22:13,499 --> 00:22:16,569
SAFARI OPERATORS STOCK UP
ON SUPPLIES FOR LODGES
368
00:22:16,602 --> 00:22:22,274
THAT LIE TUCKED AWAY
IN THE DEPTHS OF THE DELTA.
369
00:22:22,308 --> 00:22:26,145
PASSENGER JETS ARRIVE WITH
VISITORS FROM ALL OVER THE WORLD
370
00:22:26,178 --> 00:22:30,883
TO EXPERIENCE
"THE JEWEL OF THE KALAHARI."
371
00:22:30,916 --> 00:22:35,120
BUT ONLY THE BEST BUSH PILOTS
GET TO FLY INTO THE DELTA.
372
00:22:35,154 --> 00:22:37,189
THEY ARE SKILLED AT TAKING OFF
AND LANDING
373
00:22:37,223 --> 00:22:40,493
ON RUNWAYS MADE OF DIRT
374
00:22:40,526 --> 00:22:45,231
AND MUST BE ABLE TO PULL OFF
AN UNASSISTED EMERGENCY LANDING.
375
00:22:47,099 --> 00:22:49,735
BUT DESPITE THE DANGERS
OF LIGHT AIRCRAFT,
376
00:22:49,768 --> 00:22:52,237
IT’S EXHILARATING
TO GLIDE LIKE A BIRD
377
00:22:52,271 --> 00:22:56,909
LOOKING DOWN ON THE RICH
TAPESTRY OF LIFE BELOW.
378
00:22:56,942 --> 00:23:03,348
♪
379
00:23:03,382 --> 00:23:06,886
BUT IT WASN’T ALWAYS
SO WELL PRESERVED.
380
00:23:08,921 --> 00:23:13,025
BOTSWANA’S PARKS WERE BADLY
OVERRUN BY THOUSANDS OF VISITORS
381
00:23:13,058 --> 00:23:18,230
WHO TRAMPLED THE ENVIRONMENT
AND PAID VERY LITTLE.
382
00:23:18,264 --> 00:23:20,333
THIS HAD TO CHANGE.
383
00:23:20,366 --> 00:23:22,134
SO IN THE LATE 1980s
384
00:23:22,167 --> 00:23:27,139
THE GOVERNMENT MULTIPLIED
ALL PARK FEES BY TEN.
385
00:23:27,172 --> 00:23:30,842
THE EFFECT WAS INSTANTANEOUS
AND REVOLUTIONARY.
386
00:23:30,876 --> 00:23:33,045
WHILE THE NUMBER
OF VISITORS DWINDLED,
387
00:23:33,078 --> 00:23:36,748
THE REVENUE KEPT COMING IN.
388
00:23:36,782 --> 00:23:40,953
IT GAVE NATURE A CHANCE
TO CATCH ITS BREATH.
389
00:23:40,986 --> 00:23:43,956
ANIMAL NUMBERS AND
DIVERSITY SOARED,
390
00:23:43,989 --> 00:23:46,792
AND WITH IT THE QUALITY
AND EXCLUSIVITY
391
00:23:46,825 --> 00:23:49,461
OF A BOTSWANA SAFARI.
392
00:23:49,495 --> 00:23:53,666
THE MOST PRESTIGIOUS RESORTS
LIE IN THE HEART OF THE DELTA.
393
00:23:53,699 --> 00:23:57,403
THEY ARE BUILT TO BLEND IN
WITH THEIR NATURAL SURROUNDINGS,
394
00:23:57,436 --> 00:23:59,204
AND THEIR IMPACT
ON THE ENVIRONMENT
395
00:23:59,238 --> 00:24:02,541
IS CLOSELY MONITORED.
396
00:24:02,574 --> 00:24:05,077
EN ROUTE TO THE RESORTS,
THE LIGHT AIRCRAFT
397
00:24:05,110 --> 00:24:07,546
ARE ABLE TO FLY
CLOSE TO THE GROUND,
398
00:24:07,579 --> 00:24:12,984
GIVING TOURISTS
A BIRD’S-EYE VIEW OF THE DELTA.
399
00:24:13,018 --> 00:24:16,154
TOURISTS ARE BUYING
MORE THAN A LUXURY HOLIDAY;
400
00:24:16,188 --> 00:24:19,391
THEY’RE HELPING
COMMUNITIES SURVIVE.
401
00:24:22,628 --> 00:24:25,698
BOTSWANA USES A SYSTEM
OF ECOTOURISM,
402
00:24:25,731 --> 00:24:30,603
WHERE NATURE CONSERVATION IS
IN THE HANDS OF LOCAL TRIBES.
403
00:24:30,636 --> 00:24:32,037
THE TRIBES LEASE THE LAND OUT
404
00:24:32,071 --> 00:24:36,943
TO PRIVATE OPERATORS
RUNNING THE CAMPS.
405
00:24:36,976 --> 00:24:39,979
THEY ARE SOME OF THE BEST HOTELS
IN THE WORLD,
406
00:24:40,012 --> 00:24:42,648
WITH PRICES TO MATCH.
407
00:24:42,681 --> 00:24:47,219
EXPECT TO PAY UP TO
$2,700 PER NIGHT.
408
00:24:49,154 --> 00:24:51,523
THIS CAMP IS CALLED JAO.
409
00:24:51,557 --> 00:24:52,925
IT SITS ON ITS OWN ISLAND
410
00:24:52,958 --> 00:24:57,963
SURROUNDED BY THE PERMANENTLY
FLOODED PART OF THE DELTA.
411
00:24:57,997 --> 00:25:00,733
IT’S THE PINNACLE OF LUXURY.
412
00:25:00,766 --> 00:25:02,668
THERE ARE ONLY NINE ROOMS,
413
00:25:02,701 --> 00:25:06,038
AND MOST OF THE FACILITIES
ARE OPEN-AIR.
414
00:25:06,071 --> 00:25:10,142
RAISED WALKWAYS KEEP GUESTS OUT
OF REACH OF HUNGRY PREDATORS,
415
00:25:10,175 --> 00:25:13,512
WHICH ARE MOSTLY NOCTURNAL.
416
00:25:13,545 --> 00:25:16,081
JAO PAYS FEES TO
THE TRIBAL COMMUNITY,
417
00:25:16,115 --> 00:25:20,653
WHILE SOURCING THEIR
WORKFORCE LOCALLY.
418
00:25:20,686 --> 00:25:24,623
THIS LIFTS THE WHOLE AREA
OUT OF POVERTY.
419
00:25:24,656 --> 00:25:27,859
AND SINCE THE LOCALS DON’T HAVE
TO HUNT FOR FOOD ANYMORE,
420
00:25:27,893 --> 00:25:32,598
ANIMAL POPULATIONS
HAVE SKYROCKETED.
421
00:25:32,631 --> 00:25:34,333
SO HAVE THE NUMBERS
OF WATERCRAFT
422
00:25:34,366 --> 00:25:39,071
USED AS VEHICLES
FOR WATER SAFARIS.
423
00:25:39,104 --> 00:25:42,074
MOTORIZED BOATS TRANSPORT GUESTS
BETWEEN LODGES
424
00:25:42,107 --> 00:25:46,111
ALONG THE DELTA’S
DEEPER CHANNELS.
425
00:25:46,145 --> 00:25:48,114
SOME TAKE A TOUR
THROUGH THE SHALLOWS
426
00:25:48,147 --> 00:25:52,284
IN A DUGOUT CANOE
CALLED A MOKORO.
427
00:25:52,317 --> 00:25:55,153
ORIGINAL ONES ARE MADE
FROM SAUSAGE TREES,
428
00:25:55,187 --> 00:25:57,856
BUT TODAY THEY’RE MADE
FROM FIBERGLASS,
429
00:25:57,890 --> 00:26:02,194
TO SAVE THE TREES FOR
NESTING BIRDS LIKE HORNBILLS.
430
00:26:04,063 --> 00:26:06,065
AND THIS IS AS
UP CLOSE AND PERSONAL
431
00:26:06,098 --> 00:26:08,834
TO WILD AFRICA AS IT GETS.
432
00:26:08,867 --> 00:26:15,140
♪
433
00:26:15,174 --> 00:26:18,377
CELEBRITIES AND ROYALTY
APPRECIATE THE TRANQUILITY
434
00:26:18,410 --> 00:26:21,880
OF A BOTSWANA SAFARI.
435
00:26:21,914 --> 00:26:26,752
THEY VISIT LUXURY CAMPS
LIKE THIS ONE, VUMBURA.
436
00:26:26,785 --> 00:26:31,390
IT OFFERS ICONIC VIEWS
OF THE FLOODPLAINS.
437
00:26:31,423 --> 00:26:34,860
OPRAH WINFREY, MICHELLE OBAMA,
BILL GATES,
438
00:26:34,893 --> 00:26:37,596
NELSON MANDELA,
AND SUSAN SARANDON
439
00:26:37,629 --> 00:26:41,066
HAVE ALL COME TO BOTSWANA
FOR A SAFARI.
440
00:26:43,035 --> 00:26:45,504
BRITAIN’S PRINCE HARRY
AND HIS GIRLFRIEND CRESSIDA
441
00:26:45,537 --> 00:26:48,807
CAME HERE FOR A DREAM HOLIDAY.
442
00:26:51,043 --> 00:26:52,778
NICKY HILTON HONEYMOONED HERE
443
00:26:52,811 --> 00:26:57,049
WITH HER NEW HUSBAND,
JAMES ROTHSCHILD.
444
00:26:57,082 --> 00:27:00,385
AND NO WONDER, WHEN YOU CAN
WATCH SCENES LIKE THIS
445
00:27:00,419 --> 00:27:03,589
FROM YOUR BEDROOM DOOR!
446
00:27:03,622 --> 00:27:13,532
♪
447
00:27:13,565 --> 00:27:16,268
THE AREA TO THE NORTH
OF THE OKAVANGO DELTA
448
00:27:16,301 --> 00:27:20,105
IS FED BY A NUMBER
OF IMPORTANT WATERWAYS.
449
00:27:20,139 --> 00:27:23,876
THEY ENTWINE LIKE VEINS AND
ARTERIES, JOINING RIVERS,
450
00:27:23,909 --> 00:27:28,881
LAKES AND MARSHES
INTO A LIVING WHOLE.
451
00:27:28,914 --> 00:27:30,983
THIS IS THE SAVUTI CHANNEL.
452
00:27:31,016 --> 00:27:35,187
IT CARRIES WATER OVER 60 MILES
FROM THE LINYANTI RIVER
453
00:27:35,220 --> 00:27:40,992
AND RELEASES IT INTO THE VAST
SWAMPLAND TO THE SOUTH.
454
00:27:41,026 --> 00:27:43,428
THE CHANNEL’S FLOW IS SPORADIC.
455
00:27:43,462 --> 00:27:46,231
IT HAS DRIED UP AND RESTARTED
SEVERAL TIMES,
456
00:27:46,265 --> 00:27:49,335
AND SCIENTISTS
CAN’T EXPLAIN WHY.
457
00:27:52,671 --> 00:27:55,774
AFTER A DROUGHT SPELL
LASTING 30 YEARS,
458
00:27:55,807 --> 00:28:01,279
THE CHANNEL BEGAN TO FLOW AGAIN
IN 2008.
459
00:28:01,313 --> 00:28:07,252
MOST ANIMALS NEVER STRAY TOO FAR
FROM THIS LIQUID LIFELINE.
460
00:28:07,286 --> 00:28:11,023
AND THE SAME GOES FOR TOURISTS
AT THE SAVUTI CAMP,
461
00:28:11,056 --> 00:28:14,860
EAGER TO GET CAMERAS SNAPPING.
462
00:28:14,893 --> 00:28:17,996
SOME BELIEVE THAT ONCE
AN ELEPHANT IS TOO OLD
463
00:28:18,030 --> 00:28:19,732
TO KEEP UP WITH THE HERD
464
00:28:19,765 --> 00:28:24,003
IT MOVES OFF TO DIE
IN A SECRET ELEPHANT GRAVEYARD.
465
00:28:24,036 --> 00:28:26,071
ELEPHANTS’ MEMORIES ARE GREAT,
466
00:28:26,104 --> 00:28:27,839
AND THEY SHOW SIGNS
OF COMPASSION
467
00:28:27,873 --> 00:28:30,442
FOR DEAD OR DYING ELEPHANTS.
468
00:28:30,475 --> 00:28:33,712
BUT THE ELEPHANT GRAVEYARD MYTH
HAS BEEN OVER-PUBLICIZED
469
00:28:33,745 --> 00:28:38,750
BY BIG GAME HUNTERS
AND FANTASY STORIES FROM MOVIES.
470
00:28:38,784 --> 00:28:42,821
SOME BELIEVE THE STORY STEMS
FROM PILES OF BONES LEFT BEHIND
471
00:28:42,854 --> 00:28:45,990
BY GREEDY HUNTERS
WHO SHOT ENTIRE HERDS
472
00:28:46,024 --> 00:28:49,561
TO HARVEST TUSKS
FOR THE IVORY TRADE.
473
00:28:52,764 --> 00:28:56,801
ACTUALLY, WILD ELEPHANTS ARE
NORMALLY FOUND DEAD IN NUMBERS
474
00:28:56,835 --> 00:28:59,671
WHEN THEY GET TRAPPED IN REMOTE
PARTS OF THE BUSH
475
00:28:59,705 --> 00:29:04,677
WHERE THEY FIND THE LAST
REMAINING WATER SOURCE.
476
00:29:04,710 --> 00:29:11,350
THE TIRED AND WEAK VENTURE OFF
IN DESPERATION, DYING ALONE.
477
00:29:11,383 --> 00:29:14,853
OTHERS STAY TO EAT AND DRINK
ALL THAT IS LEFT
478
00:29:14,886 --> 00:29:19,290
UNTIL THE RAIN OR DEATH ARRIVES.
479
00:29:19,324 --> 00:29:23,895
THESE DRYING MUD BATHS ARE
DEATH TRAPS FOR ELEPHANTS.
480
00:29:23,929 --> 00:29:26,365
THEY SIMPLY CAN’T RESIST MUD.
481
00:29:26,398 --> 00:29:30,535
IT COOLS DOWN THEIR BODIES
AND RIDS THEM OF PARASITES,
482
00:29:30,569 --> 00:29:35,574
BUT THEIR BULKY WEIGHT QUICKLY
TURNS FRIEND TO FOE.
483
00:29:37,776 --> 00:29:41,213
ELEPHANTS SLIP EASILY IN MUD
AND BREAK LIMBS,
484
00:29:41,246 --> 00:29:46,184
OR GET STUCK IN VERTICAL
SINKHOLES WITH NO WAY OF ESCAPE.
485
00:29:49,254 --> 00:29:54,826
AS THE MUD DRIES, THE ANIMAL IS
ENTOMBED IN THE CLAY COFFIN.
486
00:29:54,860 --> 00:30:00,232
THIS ELEPHANT IS YOUNG, SO THIS
COULD BE LEARNING, THROUGH PLAY.
487
00:30:02,934 --> 00:30:06,304
BUT IT’S A STRIKING EXAMPLE
OF THE POWER OF WATER,
488
00:30:06,338 --> 00:30:10,776
BOTH FOR LIFE AND DEATH
IN THIS ECOSYSTEM.
489
00:30:10,809 --> 00:30:15,113
♪
490
00:30:15,147 --> 00:30:17,783
DURING THE DRY SEASON
ELEPHANTS GATHER HERE
491
00:30:17,816 --> 00:30:23,722
AT THE LINYANTI MARSH, ONE OF
THE FEW REMAINING WATER SOURCES.
492
00:30:23,755 --> 00:30:27,892
LARGE HERDS MOVE DOWN THIS RIVER
AT THE START OF THE DRY SEASON,
493
00:30:27,926 --> 00:30:33,498
AND ONLY MOVE BACK INLAND
ONCE THE RAINS ARRIVE.
494
00:30:33,532 --> 00:30:37,236
THEY TRAVEL MORE THAN 120 MILES
IN ONE DIRECTION,
495
00:30:37,269 --> 00:30:39,605
SOMETIMES BREAKING THROUGH
MAN-MADE BORDERS
496
00:30:39,638 --> 00:30:43,642
TO FIND FOOD AND WATER.
497
00:30:43,675 --> 00:30:47,212
FENCES ARE NO MATCH FOR
THESE SIX-TON BULLDOZERS,
498
00:30:47,245 --> 00:30:51,082
BUT MEMORIES OF LANDMINES AND
GUNFIRE IN NEIGHBORING COUNTRIES
499
00:30:51,116 --> 00:30:54,753
PLAGUE THESE ELEPHANTS.
500
00:30:54,786 --> 00:30:57,689
SOME WITNESSED
THE CIVIL WAR IN ANGOLA,
501
00:30:57,723 --> 00:31:01,126
OTHERS THE WAR OF INDEPENDENCE
IN NAMIBIA.
502
00:31:01,159 --> 00:31:06,931
MANY WERE WOUNDED BY SOLDIERS
HUNTING TO FEED HUNGRY TROOPS.
503
00:31:06,965 --> 00:31:10,836
THE MEMORY OF RAPID GUNFIRE AND
THE SMELL OF SPENT CARTRIDGES
504
00:31:10,869 --> 00:31:13,872
HAS MADE SOME ELEPHANTS
EXTREMELY AGGRESSIVE,
505
00:31:13,905 --> 00:31:18,643
AND MOST ATTACKS
ON HUMANS ARE FATAL.
506
00:31:18,677 --> 00:31:20,445
BUT THEY AREN’T
THE ONLY WILD ANIMALS
507
00:31:20,479 --> 00:31:23,983
THAT POSE A THREAT TO HUMANS.
508
00:31:24,015 --> 00:31:27,285
A SUBMARINE CREATURE LURKING
IN THE DEEPER POOL
509
00:31:27,319 --> 00:31:29,888
IS JUST AS DEADLY.
510
00:31:34,059 --> 00:31:36,695
THEY WEIGH CLOSE TO 4,000 POUNDS
511
00:31:36,728 --> 00:31:39,231
AND COMMUNICATE
WITH BOOMING GRUNTS
512
00:31:39,264 --> 00:31:44,503
THAT CAN BE HEARD
ABOVE AND BELOW WATER.
513
00:31:44,536 --> 00:31:50,142
THE HIPPOPOTAMUS GIVES
KINGS POOL ITS FAME.
514
00:31:50,175 --> 00:31:53,578
THEY ARE VERY TERRITORIAL
AND HIGHLY AGGRESSIVE;
515
00:31:53,612 --> 00:31:55,948
HARDLY SURPRISING
WHEN ONE CONSIDERS
516
00:31:55,981 --> 00:32:01,453
THAT EVERY ANIMAL WANTS A TASTE
OF THEIR TERRITORY.
517
00:32:01,486 --> 00:32:04,356
AND THEIR CLOSEST NEIGHBOR,
THE NILE CROCODILE,
518
00:32:04,389 --> 00:32:08,994
LIKES TO SNACK ON BABY HIPPOS.
519
00:32:09,027 --> 00:32:13,598
HUMANS ENTERING THIS WATERWAY
IN MOKOROS SHOULD BEWARE.
520
00:32:13,632 --> 00:32:19,738
HIPPOS CAN CRACK A CANOE IN HALF
IN JUST ONE SNAP OF THEIR JAWS.
521
00:32:19,771 --> 00:32:23,108
AND IF THEIR FOOT-LONG TEETH
DON’T SLICE YOU IN HALF,
522
00:32:23,141 --> 00:32:27,345
HUNGRY CROCODILES
COULD FINISH YOU OFF.
523
00:32:27,379 --> 00:32:29,748
DURING THE DAY,
CROCODILES LAZE AROUND
524
00:32:29,781 --> 00:32:33,752
THE BANKS OF THE WATERWAYS
TO ABSORB HEAT FROM THE SUN,
525
00:32:33,785 --> 00:32:35,820
IN PREPARATION
FOR A NIGHT OF HUNTING
526
00:32:35,854 --> 00:32:39,291
IN THE COOL, MURKY WATER.
527
00:32:39,324 --> 00:32:41,726
BUT DON’T LET THEIR
SUNBATHING FOOL YOU.
528
00:32:41,760 --> 00:32:44,930
THE SOUND OF SPLASHING WATER
TURNS A LAZY CROC
529
00:32:44,963 --> 00:32:47,098
INTO A COLD-BLOODED KILLER.
530
00:32:47,132 --> 00:32:50,068
THEY’VE EVEN BEEN KNOWN
TO ATTACK ELEPHANTS!
531
00:32:50,101 --> 00:32:58,476
♪
532
00:32:58,510 --> 00:33:02,848
SOME OF THE BIGGEST CROCS ARE
FOUND IN THE CHOBE RIVER.
533
00:33:02,881 --> 00:33:04,282
IT SERVES AS A BORDER
534
00:33:04,316 --> 00:33:06,885
BETWEEN BOTSWANA AND NAMIBIA.
535
00:33:09,688 --> 00:33:11,290
ZEBRAS GALLOP TOWARDS THE RIVER
536
00:33:11,323 --> 00:33:15,961
ON FERTILE FLOODPLAINS
COVERED WITH NEW GROWTH.
537
00:33:15,994 --> 00:33:19,231
IT’S THE END OF THEIR
ANNUAL MIGRATION,
538
00:33:19,264 --> 00:33:23,034
BUT THE START
OF A FEEDING FRENZY.
539
00:33:23,068 --> 00:33:26,705
CROCODILES MIMICKING DRIFTWOOD
SAIL DOWNSTREAM,
540
00:33:26,738 --> 00:33:30,575
GNASHING AT
THE STRIPY UNGULATES.
541
00:33:30,609 --> 00:33:32,244
BUT THEY AREN’T FUSSY FEEDERS
542
00:33:32,277 --> 00:33:36,348
AND SUPPLEMENT THEIR DIET
BY TAKING DOWN TASTY BEEF CATTLE
543
00:33:36,381 --> 00:33:39,918
GRAZING ON THE NAMIBIAN
SIDE OF THE RIVER.
544
00:33:41,920 --> 00:33:45,724
THE DEEP CROC-INFESTED RIVER
SEPARATES DOMESTIC LIVESTOCK
545
00:33:45,757 --> 00:33:47,359
FROM THE WILD ANIMALS,
546
00:33:47,392 --> 00:33:50,562
ENSURING THAT DISEASE IS NOT
SPREAD TO THE BUFFALO HERDS
547
00:33:50,595 --> 00:33:52,897
ON THE BOTSWANA SHORE.
548
00:33:55,367 --> 00:33:58,770
BY 1853, EXPLORER
DAVID LIVINGSTONE
549
00:33:58,803 --> 00:34:02,373
HAD CROSSED THE VAST EXPANSE
OF THE KALAHARI DESERT
550
00:34:02,407 --> 00:34:05,911
AND DISCOVERED
THE FAMED OKAVANGO DELTA.
551
00:34:05,944 --> 00:34:11,650
BUT HE WAS DEEPLY SADDENED BY
WHAT HE SAW AT THE CHOBE RIVER.
552
00:34:11,683 --> 00:34:15,520
HE MET TRIBES THAT HAD NEVER
SEEN A WHITE MAN BEFORE.
553
00:34:15,554 --> 00:34:17,756
THEY LEARNED
TO TRUST LIVINGSTONE,
554
00:34:17,789 --> 00:34:23,728
BUT OTHER LESS NOBLE WHITE MEN
WREAKED HAVOC ON THE TRIBES.
555
00:34:23,762 --> 00:34:27,266
THE PORTUGUESE RAIDED
THE INLAND, CAPTURING SLAVES,
556
00:34:27,299 --> 00:34:29,568
AND BUYING OTHERS
FROM LOCAL SLAVE TRADERS
557
00:34:29,601 --> 00:34:33,238
WITH BEADS AND GUNS.
558
00:34:33,271 --> 00:34:35,640
MANY AFRICANS
WERE SENT TO BRAZIL
559
00:34:35,674 --> 00:34:39,845
AND SOLD TO SLAVE OWNERS
ALL OVER THE WORLD.
560
00:34:41,580 --> 00:34:46,185
VILLAGES WHERE DESTROYED
AND FAMILY BONDS SHATTERED.
561
00:34:48,720 --> 00:34:52,857
LIVINGSTONE WATCHED IN HORROR
AS A STRING OF SLAVES PASSED BY,
562
00:34:52,891 --> 00:34:55,727
TIED TOGETHER BY CHAINS.
563
00:34:57,696 --> 00:35:00,532
A MAN GRABBED A YOUNG BOY
FROM HIS MOTHER,
564
00:35:00,565 --> 00:35:02,400
DRAGGING HIM
KICKING AND SCREAMING
565
00:35:02,434 --> 00:35:06,004
INTO A LIFE OF SLAVERY.
566
00:35:06,037 --> 00:35:08,873
IT WAS A DEFINING MOMENT
FOR LIVINGSTONE.
567
00:35:08,907 --> 00:35:14,346
HE WORKED TIRELESSLY TOWARDS
ENDING SLAVERY FOR GOOD.
568
00:35:14,813 --> 00:35:18,817
THE TRADE WAS FINALLY ABOLISHED
IN AFRICA IN 1870,
569
00:35:18,850 --> 00:35:22,620
BUT HUMAN TRAFFICKING REMAINS
A PROBLEM ACROSS THE GLOBE.
570
00:35:24,623 --> 00:35:27,626
IT IS CLOSELY TIED
TO THE ILLEGAL WILDLIFE TRADE
571
00:35:27,659 --> 00:35:29,361
THAT IS FED BY POACHERS
572
00:35:29,394 --> 00:35:34,966
TRADING IN RHINO HORN,
LION BONES AND ELEPHANT TUSKS.
573
00:35:35,000 --> 00:35:37,970
BOTSWANA IS A LEADER
IN WILDLIFE CONSERVATION,
574
00:35:38,003 --> 00:35:40,005
BUT DUE TO ITS POROUS BORDERS,
575
00:35:40,038 --> 00:35:45,443
POACHERS OFTEN ENTER AND LEAVE
WITHOUT BEING NOTICED.
576
00:35:45,477 --> 00:35:49,181
THANKFULLY, MOST VISITORS TO
BOTSWANA PLUNDER THE LANDSCAPE
577
00:35:49,214 --> 00:35:51,683
TO TAKE PICTURES
AND MAKE MEMORIES
578
00:35:51,716 --> 00:35:55,386
WHILE THESE MAJESTIC BEASTS
STILL WALK THE EARTH.
579
00:35:57,122 --> 00:35:59,291
THE CONSTANT FLOW OF WATER
IN THE CHOBE
580
00:35:59,324 --> 00:36:02,527
DRAWS IN LARGE HERDS
OF ELEPHANTS.
581
00:36:02,560 --> 00:36:06,464
THEY NEED TO EAT CLOSE TO
600 POUNDS OF FOOD A DAY,
582
00:36:06,498 --> 00:36:11,203
BUT IN ORDER TO DO SO,
THEY DESTROY TONS OF VEGETATION.
583
00:36:11,236 --> 00:36:13,638
DEAD TREES LIE FALLEN
ALONG THE RIVERBANKS
584
00:36:13,672 --> 00:36:16,808
WHERE ELEPHANTS HAVE
DESTROYED THEIR ROOTS.
585
00:36:18,810 --> 00:36:21,613
IT’S A FINE BALANCE THAT REMAINS
CLOSELY MONITORED
586
00:36:21,646 --> 00:36:23,481
BY PARK OFFICIALS.
587
00:36:23,515 --> 00:36:25,384
IF THE FOOD-TO-THE-ELEPHANT
RATIO
588
00:36:25,417 --> 00:36:27,586
TIPS THE WRONG END
OF THE SCALE,
589
00:36:27,619 --> 00:36:31,389
THERE COULD BE A MASS DYING-OFF
OF ELEPHANTS.
590
00:36:31,423 --> 00:36:36,862
♪
591
00:36:36,895 --> 00:36:41,533
POLICE AND PARK OFFICIALS
PATROL THE RIVER BY BOAT,
592
00:36:41,566 --> 00:36:44,102
WHILE LARGER RIVER CRUISERS
FERRY TOURISTS
593
00:36:44,135 --> 00:36:47,105
ALONG A STRETCH OF 60 MILES
OF THE RIVER
594
00:36:47,305 --> 00:36:51,276
GIVING UNPRECEDENTED ACCESS
TO GAME PARKS.
595
00:36:51,309 --> 00:36:52,877
BY LATE AFTERNOON,
596
00:36:52,911 --> 00:36:56,148
REGAL LION PRIDES
PATROL THE SHORES,
597
00:36:56,181 --> 00:37:01,653
USING CLUMPS OF TREES
TO AMBUSH UNSUSPECTING PREY.
598
00:37:01,686 --> 00:37:04,222
HOLIDAY MAKERS ABOARD
THE ZAMBEZI QUEEN
599
00:37:04,255 --> 00:37:08,092
EXPERIENCE THE DIVERSITY OF LIFE
UNFOLDING ON THE SHORES
600
00:37:08,126 --> 00:37:11,396
FROM A SAFE VANTAGE POINT.
601
00:37:11,429 --> 00:37:13,898
WITH BOTSWANA WILDLIFE
ON ONE SIDE
602
00:37:13,932 --> 00:37:16,301
AND NAMIBIAN CULTURE
ON THE OTHER,
603
00:37:16,334 --> 00:37:21,239
THIS WATERY NO-MAN’S-LAND
IS A MODERN EXPLORER’S DREAM.
604
00:37:21,272 --> 00:37:24,342
BY SUNDOWN BOAT CAPTAINS
FIND MOORING SPOTS
605
00:37:24,375 --> 00:37:29,180
ALONG THE RIVERBANKS, TREATING
GUESTS TO A WILD NIGHT OUT.
606
00:37:29,214 --> 00:37:36,588
♪
607
00:37:36,621 --> 00:37:38,223
FURTHER ALONG ITS COURSE,
608
00:37:38,256 --> 00:37:43,962
THE CHOBE FUSES WITH THE ZAMBEZI
AND OKAVANGO RIVERS.
609
00:37:43,995 --> 00:37:47,131
THEY SLICE THROUGH THE LANDSCAPE
FORMING NATURAL BORDERS
610
00:37:47,165 --> 00:37:50,935
AT THE MEETING POINT
OF FOUR COUNTRIES.
611
00:37:50,969 --> 00:37:52,838
THE CONVERGENCE OF THESE RIVERS
612
00:37:52,871 --> 00:37:55,440
PRODUCES A FLOW OF WATER
SO GREAT,
613
00:37:55,473 --> 00:37:57,442
IT TRUMPS THE COMBINED FLOW
614
00:37:57,475 --> 00:38:01,112
OF ALL OTHER RIVERS
IN SOUTHERN AFRICA.
615
00:38:02,714 --> 00:38:04,983
BUT THERE ARE NO BRIDGES.
616
00:38:05,016 --> 00:38:09,053
YOU NEED A BOAT TO
CROSS THESE BORDERS.
617
00:38:09,087 --> 00:38:11,423
THE KAZUNGULA FERRY
TRANSPORTS VEHICLES
618
00:38:11,456 --> 00:38:15,560
BETWEEN ZAMBIA AND BOTSWANA.
619
00:38:15,593 --> 00:38:18,663
THE VERY FIRST FERRY WAS
BUILT FROM SCRAP METAL
620
00:38:18,696 --> 00:38:22,633
SALVAGED FROM
A PAPYRUS-CUTTING MACHINE.
621
00:38:22,667 --> 00:38:26,371
THE LONG GRASS STRANDS
OF PAPYRUS GROW NATURALLY HERE
622
00:38:26,404 --> 00:38:28,306
BUT CAN CHOKE UP WATERWAYS,
623
00:38:28,339 --> 00:38:32,577
MAKING IT IMPOSSIBLE FOR BOATS
TO NAVIGATE THE RIVER.
624
00:38:34,179 --> 00:38:38,483
BUT HERE AT KAZUNGULA,
THE WATER RUNS DEEP AND TRUE.
625
00:38:38,516 --> 00:38:41,352
TRAVELERS HEADING SOUTH
USE THIS ENTRY POINT
626
00:38:41,386 --> 00:38:44,589
TO VISIT THE TOWN OF KASANE.
627
00:38:44,622 --> 00:38:46,757
THERE ARE NO FENCES
BETWEEN KASANE
628
00:38:46,791 --> 00:38:48,960
AND THE SURROUNDING GAME PARKS.
629
00:38:48,993 --> 00:38:51,963
SO IT’S NOT UNUSUAL TO SEE
AN ELEPHANT OR HIPPO
630
00:38:51,996 --> 00:38:55,132
WANDERING THROUGH THE TOWN.
631
00:38:55,166 --> 00:38:57,335
AND IT’S ALWAYS OPEN
TO TOURISTS,
632
00:38:57,368 --> 00:39:02,039
ESPECIALLY WORLD FAMOUS ACTORS.
633
00:39:02,073 --> 00:39:03,708
IN THE 1970s,
634
00:39:03,741 --> 00:39:06,644
FILM STARS ELIZABETH TAYLOR
AND RICHARD BURTON
635
00:39:06,678 --> 00:39:10,882
DECIDED TO REMARRY HERE.
636
00:39:10,915 --> 00:39:13,084
AND FAMOUS PEOPLE KEEP COMING,
637
00:39:13,117 --> 00:39:15,386
TO SEE THE TRUE STARS
OF BOTSWANA
638
00:39:15,420 --> 00:39:19,257
AS LIVINGSTONE DID
HUNDREDS OF YEARS AGO.
639
00:39:19,290 --> 00:39:23,561
♪
640
00:39:23,595 --> 00:39:26,364
THIS IS WHAT THE OKAVANGO DELTA
LOOKED LIKE
641
00:39:26,397 --> 00:39:29,867
IN DAVID LIVINGSTONE’S TIME.
642
00:39:29,901 --> 00:39:35,006
THE RICH WATER SYSTEM
SPANS 8,500 SQUARE MILES.
643
00:39:37,141 --> 00:39:39,310
IT FLOODS EVERY YEAR,
644
00:39:39,344 --> 00:39:45,283
TRIPLING IN SIZE AS THE WATERS
SURGE FROM THE NORTH.
645
00:39:45,316 --> 00:39:48,186
A TRIBESMAN TOLD LIVINGSTONE
THAT THE FLOODING WAS CAUSED
646
00:39:48,219 --> 00:39:51,189
BY A CHIEFTAIN THAT KILLED
A MAN EVERY YEAR
647
00:39:51,222 --> 00:39:54,158
AND THREW HIS BODY
INTO THE WATER.
648
00:39:56,027 --> 00:39:58,663
THIS, HE SAID, WOULD APPEASE
THE RIVER GODS
649
00:39:58,696 --> 00:40:03,367
AND RESTART
THE SEASONAL MIRACLE.
650
00:40:03,401 --> 00:40:06,004
BUT NO LIVES WERE SACRIFICED.
651
00:40:06,037 --> 00:40:08,606
ACTUALLY, THE FLOODWATERS
COME FROM RAIN
652
00:40:08,640 --> 00:40:14,079
THAT FALLS 500 MILES UPSTREAM
IN THE HIGHLANDS OF ANGOLA.
653
00:40:16,281 --> 00:40:19,484
IT CAN TAKE SIX MONTHS FOR
THE WATER TO REACH THE DELTA
654
00:40:19,517 --> 00:40:24,789
AT THE VERY TIME THE KALAHARI
EXPERIENCES A SEASONAL DROUGHT.
655
00:40:26,824 --> 00:40:30,361
AS IT SLOWS, THE WATER FORMS
A MAZE OF CHANNELS
656
00:40:30,395 --> 00:40:35,667
ENCAPSULATING HIGHER GROUND,
FORMING ISLANDS.
657
00:40:35,700 --> 00:40:40,171
SMALL ISLANDS LIKE THESE
ARE SHAPED LIKE ICEBERGS.
658
00:40:41,973 --> 00:40:46,044
TWO THIRDS OF THE STRUCTURE
EXPANDS BELOW GROUND,
659
00:40:46,077 --> 00:40:49,547
FORMING COMPLEX TUNNELS
AND FERMENTATION CHAMBERS,
660
00:40:49,580 --> 00:40:54,685
BUILT WITH A MIXTURE OF CLAY,
SALT, SAND, AND SALIVA.
661
00:40:56,621 --> 00:40:59,090
THE TURRETS,
AS STRONG AS CONCRETE,
662
00:40:59,123 --> 00:41:01,459
JUT TEN FEET INTO THE AIR,
663
00:41:01,492 --> 00:41:06,597
REACHING ABOVE THE WATER LIKE
A SNORKEL FOR VENTILATION.
664
00:41:06,631 --> 00:41:10,768
THEY ARE FORMED BY ONE OF THE
DELTA’S MOST HUMBLE CREATURES--
665
00:41:10,802 --> 00:41:12,837
THE TERMITE.
666
00:41:12,870 --> 00:41:15,673
THEY CARRY PLANT DEBRIS
INTO THE UNDERGROUND CHAMBERS
667
00:41:15,707 --> 00:41:18,543
TO FARM FUNGUS FOR FOOD.
668
00:41:18,576 --> 00:41:23,281
THE WARM CONDITIONS UNDERGROUND
HELP SEEDS GERMINATE.
669
00:41:23,314 --> 00:41:26,951
AS SAPLINGS SPROUT,
NEW ISLANDS ARE FORMED.
670
00:41:26,985 --> 00:41:32,491
THEY VARY IN SIZE FROM A FEW
FEET TO SEVERAL MILES ACROSS.
671
00:41:32,523 --> 00:41:35,860
THEN THE TREES PERFORM
A VITAL FUNCTION.
672
00:41:35,893 --> 00:41:37,895
THEY DRAW SALT OUT OF THE WATER
673
00:41:37,929 --> 00:41:42,333
ACTING LITERALLY AS
DESALINATION PLANTS.
674
00:41:42,367 --> 00:41:47,138
AS THE SAND IS DEPOSITED AROUND
THEIR ROOTS, THE ISLANDS EXPAND.
675
00:41:47,171 --> 00:41:49,340
THE WHITE PATCHES IN THE CENTER
OF THE ISLANDS
676
00:41:49,374 --> 00:41:51,376
ARE CAUSED BY SALT DEPOSITS
677
00:41:51,409 --> 00:41:55,847
AND BUSY TERMITES
HARVESTING YOUNG PLANTS.
678
00:41:55,880 --> 00:42:01,052
THE CHANNELS AROUND THE ISLANDS
CAN FLOW FOR 100 YEARS OR MORE,
679
00:42:01,085 --> 00:42:06,223
BUT CAN EASILY BECOME SILTED UP
OR JAMMED BY PAPYRUS.
680
00:42:06,257 --> 00:42:10,962
BUT THAT GETS TAKEN CARE OF
BY NATURE’S PAPYRUS-CUTTER.
681
00:42:10,995 --> 00:42:14,298
HIPPOS BREAK THROUGH
VEGETATION AND SILT,
682
00:42:14,332 --> 00:42:18,570
CREATING NEW CORRIDORS AND PATHS
FOR THE WATER.
683
00:42:22,340 --> 00:42:25,243
AND JUST IN TIME
FOR THE THIRSTY HERDS
684
00:42:25,276 --> 00:42:27,678
DRAWN TO THIS DESERT OASIS.
685
00:42:29,781 --> 00:42:31,283
ESPECIALLY ELEPHANTS,
686
00:42:31,315 --> 00:42:35,152
WHO DRINK UP TO 50 GALLONS
OF WATER PER DAY.
687
00:42:35,186 --> 00:42:38,322
THAT’S ENOUGH TO FILL A BATHTUB.
688
00:42:38,356 --> 00:42:41,659
AND THIS NATURAL BATHTUB
SUSTAINS MORE ELEPHANTS
689
00:42:41,692 --> 00:42:45,529
THAN ANY OTHER COUNTRY
ON THE PLANET.
690
00:42:45,563 --> 00:42:47,799
BUT IT WASN’T ALWAYS THAT WAY.
691
00:42:47,832 --> 00:42:52,670
IN THE 1830s, ELEPHANTS
WERE HUNTED WITHOUT MERCY.
692
00:42:52,703 --> 00:42:54,905
IN LESS THAN 70 YEARS,
693
00:42:54,939 --> 00:42:57,442
THERE WERE NO MORE ELEPHANTS
IN THE DESERT,
694
00:42:57,475 --> 00:43:01,245
AND HAD ALL BUT DISAPPEARED
FROM THE DELTA.
695
00:43:01,279 --> 00:43:05,550
HUNTING WAS ONLY BANNED
FROM RESERVES IN THE 1980s.
696
00:43:05,583 --> 00:43:08,653
THANKFULLY, POPULATIONS
HAVE BOUNCED BACK.
697
00:43:08,686 --> 00:43:12,190
IN 1981, THERE WERE
40,000 ELEPHANTS,
698
00:43:12,223 --> 00:43:16,794
AND BY THE END OF THE MILLENNIUM
HAD RISEN TO 105,000.
699
00:43:16,828 --> 00:43:21,900
THAT’S 3,000 INCREDIBLY CUTE
ELEPHANT CALVES BORN EVERY YEAR.
700
00:43:21,933 --> 00:43:24,335
THEY ARE JOINED BY THOUSANDS
OF ANIMALS,
701
00:43:24,368 --> 00:43:26,971
DRAWN IN FROM THE DRIER REGIONS
OF THE DESERT,
702
00:43:27,004 --> 00:43:30,407
IN SEARCH OF FOOD AND WATER.
703
00:43:30,441 --> 00:43:33,344
THE DIVERSITY IS BREATHTAKING--
704
00:43:33,377 --> 00:43:38,582
122 SPECIES OF MAMMALS,
71 SPECIES OF FISH,
705
00:43:38,616 --> 00:43:41,452
444 SPECIES OF BIRDS,
706
00:43:41,486 --> 00:43:45,523
INCLUDING STORKS, HERONS
AND EGYPTIAN GEESE,
707
00:43:45,556 --> 00:43:48,492
64 SPECIES OF REPTILES,
708
00:43:48,526 --> 00:43:52,697
AND 1,300 SPECIES
OF FLOWERING PLANTS.
709
00:43:52,730 --> 00:43:55,967
THE DELTA IS ALSO ONE OF THE FEW
PLACES IN THE WORLD
710
00:43:56,000 --> 00:43:58,603
WHERE YOU CAN STILL SEE
THE BIG FIVE--
711
00:43:58,636 --> 00:44:03,508
THE LION, LEOPARD, RHINO,
ELEPHANT, AND AFRICAN BUFFALO.
712
00:44:03,541 --> 00:44:05,143
THEY ARE CALLED THE BIG FIVE
713
00:44:05,176 --> 00:44:10,081
BECAUSE HUNTERS RATED THEM THE
MOST DANGEROUS ANIMALS TO HUNT.
714
00:44:10,114 --> 00:44:15,753
BUT NO ANIMAL IS MORE PRIZED
BY HUNTERS THAN THE RHINOCEROS.
715
00:44:15,786 --> 00:44:17,921
THEIR HORNS ARE PRICELESS,
716
00:44:17,955 --> 00:44:22,259
BUT BY THE 1980s, THEY WERE
PRACTICALLY WIPED OUT.
717
00:44:22,293 --> 00:44:24,796
THE GOVERNMENT ONCE AGAIN
STEPPED IN,
718
00:44:24,829 --> 00:44:28,032
DEPLOYING ARMED TROOPS
TO PATROL THE DELTA.
719
00:44:28,065 --> 00:44:31,168
ANYONE FOUND POACHING
WAS TREATED AS AN INSURGENT
720
00:44:31,202 --> 00:44:32,870
AND SHOT ON SIGHT.
721
00:44:32,904 --> 00:44:34,639
TODAY BOTSWANA PROTECTS
722
00:44:34,672 --> 00:44:39,143
OVER 2,500 CRITICALLY
ENDANGERED RHINOS.
723
00:44:39,177 --> 00:44:47,585
♪
724
00:44:47,618 --> 00:44:49,286
BUFFALOES, ON THE OTHER HAND,
725
00:44:49,320 --> 00:44:51,956
ARE IN LESS DANGER
OF BECOMING EXTINCT.
726
00:44:51,989 --> 00:44:57,862
THEY MOVE EN MASSE TO THE DELTA
AS THE KALAHARI DRIES UP.
727
00:44:57,895 --> 00:45:01,866
THE BUFFALO MOVE ACROSS THE
PLAINS LIKE A GIANT HARVESTER,
728
00:45:01,899 --> 00:45:03,401
MOWING DOWN VEGETATION
729
00:45:03,434 --> 00:45:06,003
AND TRAMPLING THEIR DUNG
INTO THE SOIL,
730
00:45:06,037 --> 00:45:09,574
ENRICHING THE DESERT SAND
AS THEY MOVE.
731
00:45:12,343 --> 00:45:14,345
THE DUST CLOUD IS
A DEAD GIVEAWAY
732
00:45:14,378 --> 00:45:16,981
TO HUNGRY LIONS THAT MOVE IN,
733
00:45:17,014 --> 00:45:21,652
PICKING OFF THE YOUNG
AND THE WEAK FROM THE HERD.
734
00:45:21,686 --> 00:45:24,822
BUT WHEN THE RAINS COME,
THE BUFFALOES DISPERSE,
735
00:45:24,855 --> 00:45:28,926
SPLITTING INTO SMALLER
FAMILY UNITS.
736
00:45:28,960 --> 00:45:30,628
THEY SPREAD OUT TO ENJOY
737
00:45:30,661 --> 00:45:33,998
THE FRESH FIELDS
OF SWEET GRASSLANDS.
738
00:45:34,031 --> 00:45:35,766
MOTHERS GIVE BIRTH TO YOUNG
739
00:45:35,800 --> 00:45:40,338
BEFORE MOVING BACK TO THE SAFETY
OF THE HERD.
740
00:45:40,371 --> 00:45:42,607
CATTLE EGRETS FEED ON INSECTS
741
00:45:42,640 --> 00:45:46,344
FLUSHED OUT OF THE GRASS
BY THE BUFFALO HERD.
742
00:45:46,377 --> 00:45:50,214
IT’S THE LAST FEAST BEFORE
THE SEASONAL FAMINE.
743
00:45:54,619 --> 00:45:59,390
AS WATER DRIES UP AROUND THE
DELTA AND GRASS BECOMES SCARCE,
744
00:45:59,423 --> 00:46:03,360
ANIMALS MOVE BACK TO
THE MAIN FLOW OF WATER.
745
00:46:03,394 --> 00:46:05,963
IT’S A TIME OF FAMINE
FOR HERBIVORES
746
00:46:05,997 --> 00:46:08,566
TRAPPED TOO FAR FROM THE DELTA.
747
00:46:08,599 --> 00:46:13,571
EVERY DAY LIVED IS
A HARD-WON PRIZE.
748
00:46:13,604 --> 00:46:17,308
BUT THIS IS WHEN
SCAVENGERS PROSPER.
749
00:46:17,341 --> 00:46:21,378
MARABOU STORKS AND VULTURES
PICK ON CARCASSES OF ANIMALS
750
00:46:21,412 --> 00:46:25,449
WHOSE BODIES SUCCUMB
TO THE DROUGHT.
751
00:46:25,483 --> 00:46:30,755
THE CYCLE OF LIFE AND DEATH
IN BOTSWANA IS EXTREME.
752
00:46:30,788 --> 00:46:35,426
BUT IT PRESERVES
THESE WILD SPACES.
753
00:46:35,459 --> 00:46:39,096
PIONEERING EXPLORERS
MAPPED THE KALAHARI...
754
00:46:41,599 --> 00:46:46,037
...WHERE ANCIENT RELICS
STILL STAND FIRM.
755
00:46:47,571 --> 00:46:51,508
SOME EMBRACE
THEIR CHANGING WORLD,
756
00:46:51,542 --> 00:46:56,380
WHILE OTHERS MAINTAIN
ANCIENT TRADITIONS.
757
00:46:56,414 --> 00:47:01,452
AS NEW WORLD GIANTS
STRETCH TOWARDS THE SKY,
758
00:47:01,485 --> 00:47:05,356
LIFE CONTINUES
TO FLOURISH BELOW.
759
00:47:08,092 --> 00:47:12,463
PRECIOUS MINERALS ARE FINITE,
760
00:47:12,496 --> 00:47:17,901
BUT THE OKAVANGO’S SOURCE
SURGES ON.
761
00:47:17,935 --> 00:47:23,107
THE DELTA IS BOTSWANA’S
ETERNAL JEWEL...
762
00:47:23,140 --> 00:47:28,612
AN IMMOVABLE GEM THAT PROTECTS
THE ESSENCE OF LIFE.
763
00:47:28,646 --> 00:47:39,323
♪
764
00:47:39,357 --> 00:47:43,695
♪
765
00:47:43,728 --> 00:47:53,738
♪
766
00:47:53,771 --> 00:47:58,909
♪
58235
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