All language subtitles for Remarkable.Places.To.Eat.S04E03.1080p.WEB.H264-CBFM

Experiencing great food is
one of the best things

about visiting a new city.

But how can you be sure that you
find the real gems?

I'm a seasoned professional,
and even for me,

it's difficult to find amazing
places to eat.

So I've asked six of Britain's most
celebrated chefs and foodies...

Let's go! Woo-hoo!

..to open up their
little black books,

and take me to their all-time
favourite places to eat.

Welcome to Puglia.

We must have a taste of that.
We must.

You're so excited! I am.

Together, we'll travel to some of
the world's most exciting
food destinations.

This place is such a hidden gem.

It's a floating restaurant.

But we won't be just eating.

Who's next? What would you like, sir?

We will be joining
the people behind the scenes...

No, no, no, no, no, no.

If you do another one like that,
you're sacked.

..and rolling up our sleeves...

Look at this. We've got a treasure.

..to find out exactly how they
deliver perfect service...

This is like a military operation,
on the beach!

..world-class food...

I've never had a meal like this in
my life. I feel almost emotional.

..and an experience
you'll never forget.

For me, it's a ten out of ten.
Ten out of ten from Fred. Wow.

This week, I'm in Italy's
breathtaking capital city, Rome.

Ciao, bella!

And my guide is owner of
Michelin-starred

Locanda Locatelli in London...

Look, how beautiful is that?
Yeah, I know.

..and judge of MasterChef Italia,
Giorgio Locatelli.

Benvenuto a Roma!

You could've taken me anywhere
in Italy, but why Rome?

Look, it's such a beautiful place.

It's like a museum in open air.

It is so inspiring.

The food scene excites me
every time I come.

Every other city like Paris,
or London,

they're a lot of different cuisine
and influence.

No, in Rome,
you eat Roman food and that is it.

I like that.

That's good that you like it,

because that's what
you're going to get.

Rome sits in the middle of
the Italian Peninsula

in the Lazio region,

with a food culture that dates back
as far as the Roman Empire.

Today, there are over 13,000
restaurants across the city,

and traditional Roman cuisine
still reigns supreme.

Rich pastas and hearty stews
dominate the menus here.

Choosing where to eat is
a daunting task,

so I'm relieved I can rely on
Giorgio's expertise.

So, tell me, Giorgio,

what's so special about
the Roman food scene?

There's a lot of restaurants,

and they are dedicated
really for the tourist.

What we're gonna do,
we're gonna go outside the centre,

and we're gonna see there is
also a room for the Romans,

for the popolo.

It's gonna blow you
away completely.

So even with your level
of experience,

you still come to Rome,

and you find things
that are new and excite you?

Absolutely. Fred,
you're gonna get amazing pasta,

fantastic gnocchi,

the best pizza that you have ever
eaten in your life.

Is it gonna be better than Paris,
though?

It's definitely better than Paris.

Hundred percent, in every way.

This is Rome.

For our first taste of Rome,

Giorgio is taking me to
the west bank of the Tiber River,

past the impressive
Castel Sant'Angelo

and towards Vatican City.

It's a spectacular way
to work up an appetite.

Where are we going to eat?

We are going to eat something that
really the Roman really cares about.

It's called pizza.

But listen, I have been to Naples.

This is the best pizza in the world,
the birthplace of pizza.

How can it be better than theirs?

Of course,
that's what the Neapolitan says.

But if you ask a Roman,
they will say to you

the Pizza Romana is
the best in the world,

cos it's thinner,
it's more digestible,

it's got different toppings,

served in slices,
instead of them being round.

It's just a completely
different thing.

For us, the bread, the baguette,

it's the same whether you're in
the north, in the south,

east, west, it's exactly the same.

Consistency equals quality.

Yeah, but you see, that's the thing.

Each of the cities of Italy
has their interpretation,

and the Roman pizza is as famous
as the Neapolitan pizza,

it's just it hasn't travelled
all over the world.

These guys, they call it,
"The Michelangelo of Pizza." Ooh.

Because he makes pizza,
that you know, no-one else,

it's just unbelievable what
he does.

OK, stop talking, let's go. Come on.
Let's go, I'm starving.

Pizzarium was founded in 2003,

by revolutionary Roman pizza-maker
Gabriele Bonci.

Its backstreet location may not
be glamorous,

but Bonci himself is a trained chef,

and worked in a string
of high-end restaurants.

Although this is a simple,
over-the-counter pizza shop,

Giorgio believes
the food here is world-class,

and the size of the queue suggests
he might just be right.

Oh, it's busy. This is packed.
GIORGIO LAUGHS

It's worth waiting, that's why.

Bonci has a cult following
here in Rome.

You can get pizza by the slice
right across the city.

But here, he's elevated it into
a real gastronomic experience.

That looks beautiful. Yeah, you see?

Well, what are we gonna have?

Whatever you want,
whatever you fancy.

Bonci's pizza is famed
for its crispy base

and experimental toppings.

Courgette flowers with anchovies,

burrata cheese with smoked salmon,

ricotta with fresh fennel
and orange...

It's an explosion of
the best Italian ingredients.

Look at the way he's cutting it...
Oh, cutting it with scissors! Yeah.

But the slices are huge.

You pay as much you weigh.
So, they're warming it up,

if there is a top,
they're taking the top away

so it doesn't get burnt.

That's why the quality is so high.

Well, which one do you want then?
Tell me.

I'd like the mortadella one.

The mortadella one. And this one
con potato and sausages.

The potato and sausages? Yeah. OK.

What about you?

Well, I'm definitely gonna have
the Gorgonzola and radicchio.

Nice. Cos I really like it.

What's the one at the end there?

That is the speciality.
That is made with porchetta.

It's rolled pork, roasted in a very
Roman way with special spice.

It comes from Ariccia,
just outside Rome.

That is one of the signature ones.

We must have a taste of that.
We must.

FRED LAUGHS
Porchetta.

You're so excited! I am!

You're like a kid in a sweet shop,

or in a pizza shop!

That's exactly what it is.

98?

That's us. OK, hi.

I thought you were
never gonna call us.
SHE LAUGHS

We want a slice of the mortadella,

a piece of the...
Con patate and salciccia.

Potato, mortadella sausage,
marinated onions...

Ohh... Wait. OK.

Look at how much mortadella
there is on there.

A little slice of Gorgonzola
and radicchio,

and then one of the porchetta. OK.

The team here have to serve
over 3,000 slices of pizza a day,

so service has to be slick.

Look at the speed of
the operation here.

Cos when you have queues like this,

you can't disappoint your customers.
No.

As much as it is about the pizza
and the quality of the pizza,

it's about the service.

Looking back it's not
so seamless, but you know...

Look at the queue.
How are we gonna get out of here?

Are we gonna have to fight?

Yeah, we'll have to be careful they
don't pinch your pizza

as you're leaving as well.

A place so popular
could easily raise its prices,

but Bonci's adamant he wants
to ensure his pizza remains
affordable for all.

On average,
we paid around five euros a slice,

which is fair for such quality.

OK, here's the pizza, sir.
Thank you so much.

Thank you, thank you very much.
Thank you.

You can eat your Pizza Romana
on site,

but it's standing room only.

So, with so much of the
Eternal City left to explore,

Giorgio is bringing me to the
Orange Garden on the Aventine Hill,

to soak up the views
and enjoy our pizza al fresco.

What a beautiful place you
take me to. This is so romantic.

This is nothing.
You will see when we get to the end.

You get to realise what
Rome really looks like.

Whoa... Oh, my God.

It's a view that is
simply bellissima.

Don't get me wrong,
I brought you to this place,

because it's very romantic,
but I don't have any intention, eh?

Look, we've got the best pizza.

And that can't be denied,

as our Pizza Romana
with four different toppings

looks absolutely delicious.

Look at that. You know what
I like about a selection like this?

I mean, besides it being completely
colourful and beautiful,

is that you get
a selection of pizzas,

as opposed to just one round pizza,
where you've got one type of pizza.

It's like an experience
for each one of them.

OK, so we try the porchetta one?

Let's try the porchetta,
because this one of his signatures.

So, it's a bit like a sandwich,
in a way, with a top on.

But look, the passing of the oven
does this crispiness at the bottom,

which really makes the difference
on the whole experience.

Oh!

You know when you said porchetta,
I was thinking,

cos I've had before porchetta before,

you know,
I've seen it cooked on the fire,

and the flavour and the smell,
the beautiful spices,

but I did not expect to find it
exactly like that in the pizza.

The flavour is so intense,

and you really get that taste
of porchetta,

but the bread is beautiful. So light.

It's lovely and crispy.
Yeah, it's light. Yeah.

Our next slice contains an ingredient

I have never seen on a pizza before.

Potato and sausages,

that's not a typical thing
that goes into a pizza.

Come on, if you said to a Neapolitan
you put potato on a pizza,

he'll shoot you, you know.

What is going on with you guys?

You want to shoot everybody all
the time. Not shoot you, I mean...

They'd lose respect.

THEY LAUGH

Mmm...

I mean, you can taste everything,
all the flavours.

It's rich potato
cooked in olive oil with rosemary,

it's delicious Italian sausage.
This is actually fantastic.

Oh, it's delicious.

Each topping is so original.

Next is cured mortadella ham,

with pistachio and fresh
stracciatella cheese.

The pistachio is inside
the slice of the mortadella.

And then this little touch
of sesame seed,

and underneath on the base you
have the onions and the cheese.

Mmm.

If you would put the mortadella
in the oven,

it gets warm, it won't be nice.

You remember, when they did it...
They took it out, that's right.

..they warmed them up,
and then they put it back.

So that shows you how much
they really care for the quality

of what they're serving.

I love the onions underneath. Mmm.

And they are just cooked right,

they are lovely and caramelised,

and they're lovely and sweet.

And that just gives an extra depth
of flavour to that pizza, you know.

Our last slice is
a combination of radicchio,

a bitter salad leaf,

and a rich Gorgonzola cheese
topped with walnuts.

All the toppings are all
totally different.

I'm really impressed with
the quality of this pizza.

And I want to know how they put
all these toppings together.

I'm really interested to have
a look at how he works this dough,

and how much he rested it,

and how does he get it
so perfectly cooked?

It's a bit of a secret,

I really would like to find out
that, to have a look at it.

Here, there is so many
different techniques,

so many different knowledge.

Yeah, absolutely a work of art.

No wonder they call him
Michelangelo.

I am really surprised,
but in a very good way.

You have taken me
to have pizza takeaway

on our first day here in Rome.

I mean, you're an award-winning chef,

and yet this is what you
take me to eat.

This is one of the concepts that
you have to have about Rome.

It's full of monuments,
it's full of kings, emperors...

But what never changes
is the people,

and this is the food of the people,

and that is the food of Rome.

This week, I'm in Rome

with legendary Italian chef
Giorgio Locatelli as my guide.

What really defines the
food culture here is the trattoria.

With thousands across the city,

all claiming to serve the finest
version of classic Roman cuisine,

it's tough to know where to choose.

But luckily,
Giorgio's got the inside track.

Giorgio, I'm so excited.

We are in the middle of Ancient Rome.

You have to be excited.

Look, we are in the front
of the Pantheon.

You're in the middle of history!

But why are you dressed like a French
man? Well, dressed up like that,

you look an Italian politician out
for a coffee in the morning,

that's a dangerous things to do,
you know?

So where are we going for lunch?
If you want to know Rome,

you have to eat in one of
the trattoria. Right.

But the trattoria in the centre,

they're very much dedicated
to the tourist.

So, I'm gonna take you outside

on the only popolare,
where the real trattoria are.

So we're going to Peckham, then?

That's exactly where we're going,
like Peckham!

The trattoria is to Rome
what the bistro is to Paris.

An affordable
neighbourhood restaurant,

serving humble but delicious food,

and Giorgio's taking me to one of
the most exciting in the city,

in the up and coming
San Paolo district,

just ten minutes
south of the city centre.

These are quartieri popolares,

where the people who works in Rome
in the offices lives here. Right.

And so that allowed you then
to have restaurants like these,

because the people come
to eat on a daily basis here.

Trattoria Trecca is run by the young
Trecastelli family,

whose authentic renditions
of home-cooked Roman recipes

are grabbing the attention
of savvy locals in the know.

We're joining the family in
the run-up to service.

This is perfect.

Nice to meet you.
Ciao, Manuel, my friend.

Manuel and Julia run the kitchen,

while brother Nico
is in charge of pastry.

Are you together?
You don't just work...

Ahh, I thought so.
It's husband and wife. Yes.

BOTH: Grazie.

Where does the inspiration
for this restaurant come from?

Many of the recipes on the menu here

have been lovingly
handed down to the brothers

by their grandma, Nonna Elma,
who is still called on for advice.

We're doing the mise en place,

but look who's making
the mise en place. Nonna.

The nonna.

Today we're helping Nonna Elma
prepare artichokes

with granddaughter-in-law, Julia.

And there are no shortcuts.
Everything is done by hand.

This is what we call mammole,

which is opened up and is
slightly tender. Mm-hm.

This one is just
a little bit harder.

OK.

One of the cuisine that has left
the bigger print on it,

is the Jewish cuisine.

Even for non-Jewish people,
they all eat Jewish cuisine. Right.

The artichoke are very much
the base of that.

Ay-ay!

Wow.

There is a secret to how Nonna cuts
the perfect artichoke,

and it's a trick Julia has mastered.

OK... So the knife must be straight.

The craft and care that goes into
hand-preparing each artichoke
is incredible.

You're hacking it,
you're hacking it, man.

No, no, no, no, no, no.

She said that if you do another like
that, you're sacked.

I'm just coming here for lunch.
Bravo!

Aim for the top as you turn.

There you are.

Look at that! Bravo. Whoa!

For you, Nonna.

Scusa!

It's better piccolo and well-formed

than big and just useless.

GIORGIO CACKLES

Most of the restaurants
will buy these already prepared,
already clean.

Here, they just go through
step by step on the preparation,

and I think that that will show
the quality at the end.

Two different types of artichokes.

What recipe do you do with those?

Fried.

Si, si.

Even in the family,

there is a little discrepancy
on the recipe.

No, no, io no... No, no, vino.

She doesn't agree.

I loved learning
these time-honoured techniques

handed down by Nonna Elma,

and they elevate Trecca from
a run-of-the-mill trattoria,

to somewhere really special.

Seasonal veg is a big part of
the menu here.

But it's their pasta dishes that
have been getting rave reviews,

especially their take on amatriciana,

a classic Roman dish of pasta,

with a rich tomato sauce

and crispy pork cheek.

You know, I'm so excited,
because I always wanted

to learn how to make
a proper amatriciana.

For Manuel's recipe,

there are just five
carefully selected ingredients,

the first of which is bucatini pasta.

OK. Touch this pasta. See how rough?

The oily sauce would touch there,
and also enter there.

This is not pancetta, so what is it?

BOTH: No pancetta.

No bacon, no bacon!

Guanciale.

Pancetta is such a different thing.

Think about the fat of the belly,

that's what makes pancetta.

This is made with the jaw.

So the jaw, think about
how many times you open

and close your jaw every single day
to build your muscle.

I'm just looking at you,
I can imagine!

Manuel begins his amatriciana
by roughly cutting the guanciale,

like Nonna would have done,
and adding it to the pan.

It smells delicious.

And then you cut your onions,
just as you're making the sauce?

Just like that?

Right.

Cutting the onions so finely
is a nifty trick

to ensure they melt into the juices,

adding a subtle flavour to the sauce.

The way you're crushing your
tomatoes with your hand,

it's like you're making love
to this pan.

Bellissimo.

You want the teeth to clang on it,

you want to meet a nice piece of
tomato every now and again.

I've been in hundreds of kitchens,

and I've rarely seen
so much done by hand,

and with such care about
every gesture.

Although you only have five
ingredients for this recipe,

it's incredibly complex
because of the precision,

you know, and all these
little tricks that you do

to get this recipe just
the way you want it.

The noise gets more flatter.

PASTA SLAPS WETLY
See, can you hear the noise?

It's changing as you put in.
OK, let's plate it.

I mean it's like we are worshipping
the bucatini. That's right.

Oh! Oh, my God!

And a little bit of the cheese
around that. Oh!

Look at that.

I'm so excited. Are you?

Because I learn from the best.
You learn from the best.

You learn from the guy who's got
"BUCATINI" tattooed on his hand.

By going back to his
childhood memories,

and a handmade way of approaching
food he learned from his Nonna,

Manuel and his family have made
a restaurant that truly stands out.

Every day the dining room fills up
with a generation of Romans,

nostalgic for the promise
of traditional home cooking.

It's full. All different people.

These people haven't come here
to be seen,

like in the restaurant scene,
they come here to eat.

It's like the front room of
the house of somebody.

That's what the trattoria was.

The mother cooked in the kitchen,
and suddenly they start to serve.

I'm so hungry, Giorgio.
There we are. Look at that.

Here we go, guys.

For our antipasto, or first course,

we're having hand-prepared
artichoke two ways.

A fried romanesco artichoke,

simply presented like
a flower on the plate.

And a violetto artichoke
steeped in white wine,

olive oil, parsley and wild mint.

The boldness of just serving
the fried artichoke, that's it.

Yeah, I like that.

This is confidence, isn't it?
Confidence in a dish.

Oh, my God. This is absolutely
perfectly cooked.

You only eat the heart in France,
you don't eat the leaves.

No. But taste the leaves.

Oh!

Incredible flavour, no?

And as much as it's fried,
it's very, very light.

So what about this one, then?

OK. I'm not even pushing on
the knife, it goes.

Oh, la la!

And here you've got
a very important ingredient,

it's called mentuccia,

which is like a
basilly-flavoured mint.

I think you can taste
the artichoke more in this version,

compared to the other one.
Absolutely.

It's soft, it's gentle,
it's very subtle.

It has really beautiful
sweet tastes as well.

Giorgio,
I don't know if you've noticed,

but everybody has ordered pasta here.

Right, that's what you come here
for, a nice plate of pasta.

What arrives next is
our own magnificent bowl

of Bucanti All'Amatriciana.

Glistening with a rich tomato sauce,

and topped with crispy guanciale.

Served in a sharing bowl to replicate

the brothers' childhood memory
of eating at home with Nonna.

Wow.

But you're looking at this pasta

like it's the most beautiful
woman on earth.

I wanna take a picture of you,
Giorgio, look at that.

I'm salivating!

HE SCREECHES AND LAUGHS

Oh, that's nice, look at that.

Boom. Wow.

Oh, the guanciale.

This is heavenly,
really truly heavenly, isn't it?

You remember,
break the tomato with his hand.

As we're eating,

there's no sauce left on
the bottom of the plate.

No. It's all on the pasta,
inside the pasta, isn't it?

But the crunchiness
of this guanciale.

It's crunchy and yet it's soft.

But also, it's got that
little sweetness... Yes.

..which rounds off the whole thing.

The pecorino,
when it goes in the sauce,

it gives a different consistency
in the sauce.

It just elevates completely the
flavour of the pecorino, doesn't it?

And now we come to a very
important moment.

The youngest one in the family

should have the right
to do the scarpetta in here.

How old are you?

I'm older than you,
so it's your turn.

Whoever is given the scarpetta,
has the right to clean the bowl.

We can share, come on.

OK, eccoci qua.
BOTH: Oh!

Allora l'abbiamo.

Uno zabaione.

For our bill, including two of
Nico's delicious desserts...

Ah. Oh, la la.

It's incredible, this one.
I love it.

..we paid just 70 euros,
which for a meal this memorable,

is real value for money.

I really think that Grandma can be
very, very proud of Julia,

Nico, and Manuel,

because they've really put a bit of
their grandma into their food.

And it's almost like, you know,

it's almost a tribute to her,
isn't it?

It is totally a tribute to her.
I mean, they're a great team.

If my kids will do a restaurant
and cook like that,

I would be so proud.

She managed to inspire them in
the right way.

And still tell them off!

I love that.

I'm in Rome, the Eternal City,

with Chef Giorgio Locatelli.

Today, we're heading back
to Pizzarium

to meet trailblazing pizzaiolo,
Gabriele Bonci.

He's taken the humble pizza
to another level,

crafting gourmet slices for
an adoring public.

I've never had pizza like it,

and now we want to discover
the secret to his signature crust.

It's gonna be hard work.

Are you ready?

Yeah, because I...I want
to experience it.

This is exciting for me, this.

How did you come up with it?

He has the choice of what grain
to plant, and what to grow.

Most pizzerias use mass-produced
flour for cost and convenience.

But Gabriele has a farm
and ever in search of

taste perfection, cultivates his
own wheat and spelt

to control quality from
start to finish.

He's a farmer as well as
being a chef?

You know what he reminds me of,

do you remember in the
movie, Gladiators?

Gladiators.

When he comes and he's
with his hand like this

on the grain, this is him.

But he doesn't see the plants
growing, he sees pizza growing.

Applying this level of thought,

before he's even made
a dough mixture,

is part of Gabriele's never-ending
quest for pizza perfection.

As it's going along,
it changes the noise.

How long is it gonna rest for?

48 hours to rest. Wow, this is
really slow food, isn't it?

To make very good fast food,
you have to go slow.

After two whole days of proving,

the dough goes through
an unbelievable transformation.

Be careful, you're gonna
pull a muscle.

Look at this. It's alive!
Look, look, the structure.

Oh, my God, it goes on and on.

Une, deux, trois. Uno, due, tre.

Aw, look at this.

I mean, you can see why he's
built like this.

Because you need to be
strong to do the job.

Aw, look at that.

Gabriele has perfected every stage
of the process.

First, he gently shapes the
dough into 1.2 kilo balls.

How many pizza would you make
every day?

Wow.

This is hours and hours of practice,
this, to get it right. Yeah.

The dough balls are rested yet again
for up to 12 hours.

The slow fermentation process
is a technique

Gabriele has developed over time
and is the secret to

the light interior and crispy crust
he's become world famous for.

This is the most delicate moment,

because you need to keep all
the air inside.

And this is why we call this
schiacciare.

Schiacciare translates as
to squish or press.

The air stays in, can you see?

Yes, the bubbles are coming up.
Schiacciare.

So that's it. This is like poetry.

One, two. He let it pull itself.

And that's it. It looks so easy.

But I bet you this is
so difficult to do.

You should try.

Keep your fingers open a bit. OK.

Oh, my God.

Oh, my god.

Now stretch.

No, upside down, Fred! No!
The other side!

Yeah, that's it. Argh!
That's too long now.

Listen, this is the first
time I do it.

Stop, stop, stop! Stop getting
excited, the two of you there.

The first French pizza in Rome.
Whoa!

Gabriele's relentless pursuit
of excellence

isn't just limited to his pizza base.

He's equally obsessive about
his toppings.

Ingredients are largely hand
picked from

a network of trusted local suppliers,
and his prep kitchen looks more like

a high-end restaurant
than a pizzeria.

I'm meeting his right hand,
man, Tomaso,

who is prepping for today's service.

Wow. What produce!

Are you making always
the same toppings,

or do you change them on
a daily basis?

No, there are a thousand of
kinds of pizzas.

So, it's easy for us making
something different every day.

We are really obsessed about finding
new produce,

and Gabriele always
research, research.

Tomaso began his career
with Gabriele.

And with his encouragement,
has travelled the world

working in triple Michelin
star restaurants.

Are you, like, one of
Gabriele's proteges?

So, when you work with Gabriele,
Gabriele really try to explain you

not how to transform the produce,
but a way of thinking.

So it's a philosophy, really?

I transform something and
make it in a new way,

and he tastes it, and after that he
decides how to put in the pizza.

For example, at the moment,
we start with some fermentation

with the scraps of the bread. Right.

For making some miso.

Oh.

So, a Japanese technique
with Italian.

That's why he is Gabriele,

and the older pizzeria is not
the same thing.

You sound very, very proud
of what you do in your job.

But also, the way you talk about
Gabriele, it's like he's a God.

After travelling around the
world, in the end

I'm always thinking about
Gabriele's work with produce.

And in my head always thinking,
"This guy is a genius."

Not only are Gabriele's exacting
standards adhered to

without compromise, it's the
sheer volume of work

that his team get through
that's so impressive.

How many different type
of toppings you make?

130?

Wow. That is incredible.

The star of the show is
the roast porchetta,

and Giorgio's finding out just what
goes into making

Gabriele's signature slice.

OK, we're gonna baptise
the porchetta.

Porchetta is a combination
of rolled pork belly and loin.

Oh, my God. Ah, the
noise is brilliant.

Gabriele has marinated his porchetta
in herbs overnight before roasting

which is true dedication for
a single pizza topping.

Oh, this smells sweet.

So how long did you cook for?

I love that you refer...

Yeah, I love that you refer to it
like "lei" like she's a lady. Lei.

If you show this crackling to
the English,

you'll have all the English people
come to eat this, man.

Listen to this...
CRACKING

Oh. Oh! That is sexy, isn't it?

Very sexy.

How do you manage to get this
so crispy on the outside?

I see a lot of porchetta, but this
one, where'd you get this one?

It's amazing.

He has control as well on
the feed of the pigs.

So, you know,
he controls the whole production.

Now I know why they call you
the Michelangelo of the pizza.

After creating such
an exceptional product,

the pressure is on
the front of house team

to deliver sleek, speedy service.

Who's next? What would you
like, sir?

This one is fungi, mushrooms.
Do you wanna try?

It's really, really good.

I'm joining Manager, Mary,
who oversees the sale

of over 160,00 slices of pizza
a year.

Porchetta.

No, no. No, where you from?

From Poland. Poland. Yes.

That's all I can say. OK.

This is a house speciality. Yes.

Delicious. OK,
I'm gonna warm it up.

Gabriele is constantly changing
the toppings on offer,

and over the life of the shop,

he's served up more than
1,500 combinations.

Who's next? Me, thank you.

Oh. The first English person here.

First time in Rome.
Do you like it?

I love it. I'm excited.

This is such a bargain.

Look at that.
What do you think, Maria?

Very good.

There you are, this is yours, enjoy.

Make sure you get napkins
and have a drink.

Oh, my God. Oh!
It melts in your mouth.

Out back, to finish off the topping
for the porchetta Romana,

some artichoke, and of course,
some pork crackling.

We just place it on top.

Oregano.

The Sistine Chapel of the pizza.

Here it is. Fred, come on.

This is so busy, it's so exciting.

Have you run out of porchetta?
Yeah, we have.

OK, that's it, that's for you.
Come on, go, go, go.

Gabriele,
this is incredible, your shop.

I mean you're like
a rock star here.

Yes. Just get on with it.
Get on, get on.

What a fabulous experience.

I never thought that
a humble slice of pizza could have

so much thought, focus and
passion put into it.

What Gabriele and his team
have created

is something truly exceptional
for the people of Rome.

Not only did we learn about
the Roman pizza,

but we got into
the soul of people. You know,

because Gabriele,
he really is a Roman, isn't he?

He said that. First of all,
I'm a Roman.

Second I'm a farmer, then I'm
a chef. And then I'm a chef.

Look at how much they queue
to eat his pizza.

Because he's created
a following here.

Yes. He's like storytelling,

telling you about Italy through
the topping of this pizza.

La storia d'Italia.
La storia d'Italia sulla pizza.

Fantastico.

I'm in Rome with chef
Giorgio Locatelli,

and he's brought me out of town on
a day trip to Tivoli,

in the Lazio hills half an hour
northeast of the city.

We're in search of
a special dish made by a chef,

who's pushing the boundaries
of traditional Roman cuisine.

Here we are in Tivoli.

You are so excited.

Yes. I'm so excited
for two reason. First,

because I'm taking you to do one
thing that only the Romans do.

Right. La citta fuori porta.
What is this?

That means when it's so hot
and bustling in the city,

the Romans leave the city.
They come up to the hills,

because it's nice, it's fresh.

OK. They come and eat, and they come
and spend the whole day.

And then they go back to
the bustling of

the town after that.
But I'm excited,

because I'm taking you
to eat in this restaurant.

It's just opened.
It's a protege of mine. Right.

He's called Adriano, he worked for
me for four years in London,

then all over the world. And now,

he's decided to stop here
and make a restaurant here.

Well, I'm glad you're taking
me here, because without you,

I definitely wouldn't come here.
It's off the beaten track,

but it's really worth it,
I'm telling you.

Restaurant, Li Somari,
opened in 2022

with Adriano Baldassarre as
Executive Chef.

The intimate 40-seater eatery

is set in the heart
of Tivoli's old town.

But instead of heading to
the kitchen,

Giorgio's arranged
to join Adriano on his morning trip

to the fruit and veg market in
the main square.

Look at the quality
of this produce here.

This is as fresh as it gets.

I'm already cooking just by looking
at that.

And this is the best of the season,
because you have the

primizia and tardizia. Yes. Like,

look, you've got leeks there which
is part of the winter season.

Right. But there you've got the
greens.

So the primizia and tardizia.

This is poetic.
Eh, well, Italians, you know.

Come on. OK, you are...
LAUGHTER DROWNS SPEECH

I'm so proud to be here,
so proud to be here with Adriano.

Some of Lazio's finest produce
can be found in

the surrounding countryside.

But we've come for one
particular ingredient,

to make Adriano's signature dish.

It's Thursday, and do you
know it means, Thursday? No.

Gnocchi. Gnocchi!

Everybody eats gnocchi in Rome on
Thursday.

What do you mean? Everybody,
it's like an official calendar?

So you can ask everybody.

Everybody... Everybody eats gnocchi.

On Friday, everybody is Lent Day.

You eat fish.
You eat fish. So, the day before,

you eat the gnocchi
because you need to fill up nice

and well for the day after,
that you're gonna be on Lent.

But how long has this tradition been
going on for?

Thousands of years. Longer years.

Hundreds of years, that's for sure.

Gnocchi are small potato dumplings
that had their origins in

the first century.

What's the secret for gnocchi?

So, that's why we're coming to
the shop.

Because we want this kind
of potato.

These are prized Avezzano potatoes,
cultivated locally.

These potatoes are the only ones you
would cook gnocchi with?

The best one.
Because they are not watery,

and they're not too much of starch.

If the potato's too starchy,
then the gnocchi would be...

Elastic. ..elastic in your mouth.
Rubbery.

And if it's not starchy enough,

then you have to put
a lot of eggs in,

a lot of flour,
which makes them very heavy.

So we have to select.

Same size.

This way they all cook the same.

Are we ready to go and cook? Dai.

Adriano has set out to use
the skills

and techniques owned in
Michelin star kitchens

like Giorgio's to make elevated
versions of traditional recipes

from Rome and Lazio.

Before we eat,
we are joining him in the kitchen.

Adriano, what's so special about
your gnocchi?

We are not making classic gnocchi,
we are making stuffed gnocchi.

I have never seen that before.

I really am curious
to see how he's gonna stuff it.

Yep. That's my first. See...

Before preparing the gnocchi,

Adriano bakes his potatoes on
a barbecue.

Usually in a normal household,
you would boil the potato. Right.

So the reason why he cooks them on
the fire,

is to make sure that they dry
completely, right? Exactly.

So this is a break away from
tradition, isn't it?

You have to have in your brain,
the real tradition.

Right. Only that way you can make
the contemporary way of something.

Still very hot. Yeah. If it's not
hot you don't go fast.

You know who used to say that?
That one.

Yes! So the next secret is

to use this like mashed potato.

After you have squeezed once,
you have to squeeze twice.

Because we need without any single
piece of potato inside.

Adriano then adds equal measures
of cornflour, 00 flour,

a little salt and egg yolks
to bring the mixture together.

Is there a secret to it?

If you touch too much,
you just make a disaster.

If you do like a pasta,

it'll become softer and softer
and softer,

and you lose the quality of it.

Yeah. Always hot.

So it's cooking the eggs in
the same time? Exactly.

But this is a big secret,
this is very important.

Yeah, that's very important,
very important.

Adriano's filling his gnocchi
with a classic Roman stew,

chicken alla cacciatora.

He's fusing two cornerstones
of the Roman kitchen,

to create this innovative
signature dish.

That looks fantastic.

When I smell this chicken
alla cacciatora,

and when I look at it,
it looks very French.

The only difference is
it's rosemary instead of tarragon.

The secret is to really colour
the chicken,

and then slowly, slowly add the wine
until it's absolutely cooked.

Very classic.
Classic, classic, classic.

The stew is then blitzed to create

a stuffing that's then piped onto
the base layer of the gnocchi.

So, what we do is,
take like this and we just...

Cover that.

Do like this. Wow. Amazing.

And we...

Push them.

And look at the speed, the gesture.

Look how delicate
and precise these are.

This is like a work of art.
Oh, my God.

Giorgio.
It really is like a cloud. I mean,

they're so light in your hand.

I just can't wait to eat it.

Downstairs,
the dining room is buzzing

with locals enjoying Adriano's
creative cuisine.

It's so quaint, it's so cute.
You know,

it's like a boutique restaurant.

Because how many tables are
there? Like,

ten tables. That's it.

Ooh, Giorgio. Voila.
Here you are, guys.

Hey. So that's your gnocchi.
Finally, yeah.

Wow.

Potato clouds filled
with chicken stew,

glazed with a rich broth.

It looks spectacular.

I've been to Italy many times.

I have never ever heard
of this dish.

I've been cooking Italian food
for all my life,

and I have never ate gnocchi
alla cacciatora.

Mmm.

Mmm. Wow.

I can see why the people come
from Rome to have this.

Oh, Madonna.

And there is a little kick with
the chilli in the sauce.

A great balance of flavour,

because you can actually
taste everything.

You get that softness of
the gnocchi and then bang,

you get the heat of
the cacciatora inside.

So it's like three stages eating,
isn't it?

Look how thin that gnocchi is.
This is perfect.

I mean that could almost be
a ravioli.

It's only when you bite,
do you know that it's an gnocchi.

I wouldn't expect anything
but perfection from Adriano.

Of course. But this is innovation,

really rooted in tradition,
in history.

Our gnocchi cost just 14 euros
per portion.

What value for money.
This is the countryside.

So if you want the people to come
back again and again,

not only you have to be good,

but you also have
to have good price.

OK, I'm paying.

OK, you do that.

Thank you. It's on you.

When we first arrived in Rome,

Giorgio promised to take me
to places where

the locals eat,
to sample the food of the popolo,

and wow, has he delivered.

I have really enjoyed this trip.

It was a revelation for me.
I have been to Rome before,

but I have never experienced
such quality.

Well, you see, that's the thing.

A lot of people come to Rome,

there's so much to see and you are
just tied in with the centre.

But the beauty of the city,
the popolo,

the real cuisine is just slightly on
the outskirt.

These three restaurants are true
to the city

and the people that live here.

Each one driven by
a sense of tradition,

using the produce from the region

to create dishes that
I will never forget.

But most importantly,

it's the hospitality
and pride in what they do,

that has left a lasting impression
on me.

For me, the one thing that

the Trecca brothers,
Bonci and Adriano have in common,

is that they are all very proud
of being from Rome.

They are true Romans first
and foremost.

They're really obsessed
about tradition.

But they keep on looking to
the future.

Food for them, it's in their soul,

it's in their heart, it's in their
very being.

These are the people that will keep
Roman cuisine alive.

But Giorgio, you're from Milan,

but you sound like you
wanna be from Rome.

The Roman Empire ruled
the Gauls, which was France,

so you are a bit of
a Roman too, like me.

Yeah, but that's from
a long time ago. That's OK.

We've got the genes, come on.
Come on. Come.

Next time, I'm in Devon...

Look at that coastline.

..with Michelin star chef,
Angela Hartnett.

They embrace the British seafood.

They really know what
they're doing.

In a county where food is
an obsession.

These are little pine cones.

Oh, yeah.
I mean, these guys are nuts.

Subtitles by Red Bee Media