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Salt? Pepper?
4
00:00:55,200 --> 00:00:57,680
Don't bring me table salt.
5
00:01:01,840 --> 00:01:04,640
- Can I take it?
- No, wait.
6
00:01:05,240 --> 00:01:06,400
Wait!
7
00:01:06,400 --> 00:01:09,080
I brought you peanut oil.
8
00:01:09,080 --> 00:01:11,200
And the shallots?
9
00:01:13,320 --> 00:01:15,600
What's going on, Loulou?
10
00:01:15,600 --> 00:01:19,320
Where is the goddamn Top Chef guy?
11
00:01:25,400 --> 00:01:29,080
Pay attention to what you do!
12
00:01:31,560 --> 00:01:33,920
- Wait!
- Oh, I forgot the oil.
13
00:01:34,520 --> 00:01:36,920
It makes all the difference.
14
00:01:42,120 --> 00:01:45,360
Look at this juice.
15
00:01:45,360 --> 00:01:47,720
Table 7 is still waiting!
16
00:01:49,280 --> 00:01:54,080
Yes, but what I just made
will change their experience.
17
00:02:01,720 --> 00:02:05,800
My family raised French Charolais
in Central France.
18
00:02:06,520 --> 00:02:10,840
We always thought
French meat was the best in the world.
19
00:02:16,800 --> 00:02:18,680
Which cinemas will show this?
20
00:02:19,280 --> 00:02:21,480
Where will we see it?
21
00:02:21,480 --> 00:02:24,680
I told you to forget about the camera.
22
00:02:25,640 --> 00:02:27,680
But you're shooting?
23
00:02:29,360 --> 00:02:30,720
Daddy?
24
00:02:34,640 --> 00:02:37,160
How is the meat, Safine?
25
00:02:37,160 --> 00:02:39,320
So good!
26
00:02:40,000 --> 00:02:41,560
She really loves meat.
27
00:02:57,480 --> 00:03:01,440
Once in New York,
I ate a highly unusual steak.
28
00:05:18,800 --> 00:05:20,800
It's crazy.
29
00:05:22,400 --> 00:05:27,760
I just ate the best steak
in the world here.
30
00:05:30,600 --> 00:05:32,520
No question about it.
31
00:05:33,240 --> 00:05:35,200
It's tender,
32
00:05:35,880 --> 00:05:38,440
it's tasty, it looks good.
33
00:05:40,120 --> 00:05:42,600
It's so easy to cut.
34
00:05:43,360 --> 00:05:47,360
This Black Angus
had a very easy taste.
35
00:05:47,360 --> 00:05:50,080
The meat was very tender,
36
00:05:50,080 --> 00:05:52,280
because the animal was very young.
37
00:05:52,280 --> 00:05:54,240
But it has nothing to do with real Angus.
38
00:05:54,240 --> 00:05:57,120
This one was raised
in an industrial model
39
00:05:57,120 --> 00:06:00,400
where animals are killed very young.
40
00:06:00,400 --> 00:06:04,280
They are 18 months old.
That's why the meat is so tender.
41
00:06:04,280 --> 00:06:06,560
And it's fatty,
42
00:06:06,560 --> 00:06:11,800
because the food the animals eat
is full of protein.
43
00:06:11,800 --> 00:06:16,800
The American system involves
raising animals very quickly
44
00:06:17,360 --> 00:06:23,200
with hormones for extra muscles
and protein-heavy food for fat
45
00:06:23,200 --> 00:06:26,520
to please market demand
for tenderness and taste.
46
00:06:26,520 --> 00:06:31,160
But instead of being tender
and tasteful, it is flabby and fatty.
47
00:06:31,480 --> 00:06:38,520
But if you've been eating
only tasteless French Blonde,
48
00:06:38,520 --> 00:06:40,600
or hard Charolais,
49
00:06:40,600 --> 00:06:44,440
the flabby and fatty Black Angus
seems to be wonderful.
50
00:06:45,760 --> 00:06:47,600
France is behind others.
51
00:06:47,600 --> 00:06:51,520
I asked passionate people why,
ate unforgettable steaks
52
00:06:51,520 --> 00:06:53,680
and witnessed a revolution.
53
00:07:15,480 --> 00:07:17,600
- Sorry I'm all wet.
- That's okay.
54
00:07:17,600 --> 00:07:19,760
- Nice to meet you.
- Likewise.
55
00:07:22,160 --> 00:07:26,280
In France,
we don't produce red meat.
56
00:07:28,840 --> 00:07:31,280
Limousine, Charolais
and Blonde d'Aquitaine
57
00:07:31,280 --> 00:07:35,360
are raised to give birth
to male veals for Italy.
58
00:07:35,360 --> 00:07:37,240
In France we eat old cows.
59
00:07:37,240 --> 00:07:41,480
Under the Anglo-American influence,
60
00:07:41,480 --> 00:07:44,600
Europe stopped eating boiled meat
61
00:07:44,600 --> 00:07:47,160
and started grilling the meat
in the '50s.
62
00:07:47,160 --> 00:07:51,520
That is when the problem
with our breeds began.
63
00:07:51,520 --> 00:07:57,440
Our heavy animals
were not adapted to the grill.
64
00:07:58,800 --> 00:08:01,040
Which should we taste first?
65
00:08:07,760 --> 00:08:10,520
In France, we have a problem.
66
00:08:10,520 --> 00:08:16,400
We need to stop raising
muscled animals -
67
00:08:16,400 --> 00:08:17,800
But we're not.
68
00:08:17,800 --> 00:08:22,480
Charolais, Limousine and Maine-Anjou
cattle have two major problems.
69
00:08:22,480 --> 00:08:26,720
They become adult very late.
70
00:08:26,720 --> 00:08:31,680
So they produce a lot of collagen.
Collagen is the enemy of tenderness.
71
00:08:31,680 --> 00:08:33,840
Boiled collagen turns to jelly,
that's okay.
72
00:08:33,840 --> 00:08:36,040
But grilled, it's a problem.
73
00:08:36,040 --> 00:08:39,640
The male produces
a lot more collagen than the female.
74
00:08:39,640 --> 00:08:42,400
In the 1950s,
when a male calf was born,
75
00:08:42,400 --> 00:08:45,640
we knocked it out
and dumped it.
76
00:08:46,880 --> 00:08:49,480
These animals are athletes.
77
00:08:49,880 --> 00:08:52,640
Athletes have no fat.
They have muscles.
78
00:08:52,640 --> 00:08:55,480
These animals are heavy
but produce no fat.
79
00:08:55,480 --> 00:08:57,600
So, we're back to the same issue.
80
00:08:57,600 --> 00:09:01,360
In order to grill meat,
it needs some fat.
81
00:09:01,920 --> 00:09:08,000
The obsession with getting animals
looking like bodybuilders is over.
82
00:09:08,640 --> 00:09:13,160
But it is still an obsession
for French butchers.
83
00:09:13,480 --> 00:09:15,320
Because the yield's better.
84
00:09:15,320 --> 00:09:21,440
We also need to explain to consumers
what good meat is.
85
00:09:21,440 --> 00:09:27,880
They need to understand intramuscular
fat melts away during cooking
86
00:09:28,400 --> 00:09:33,240
and you don't eat
the fat left in your plate.
87
00:09:33,240 --> 00:09:38,640
You end up with a piece of meat
with only five to eight percent of fat.
88
00:09:39,120 --> 00:09:41,840
The French have had a phobia of fat.
89
00:09:41,840 --> 00:09:44,160
Nutritionists are largely to blame.
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00:09:48,040 --> 00:09:52,840
Looking for the best steak in the world
91
00:10:45,720 --> 00:10:50,400
Argentinean history regarding meat...
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00:10:51,560 --> 00:10:54,320
started with the arrival
of the first Spaniards.
93
00:10:54,320 --> 00:10:58,760
The first animals
were Spanish breeds
94
00:10:58,760 --> 00:11:04,720
and they were destined
for the leather trade with Europe.
95
00:11:04,720 --> 00:11:10,520
But when they started extracting salt,
96
00:11:10,520 --> 00:11:16,160
they learned how to preserve
and store meat with salt.
97
00:11:16,160 --> 00:11:24,480
That is when Argentina started
exporting meat to Europe.
98
00:11:24,920 --> 00:11:29,680
When this business expanded,
Europeans sought to improve
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00:11:30,400 --> 00:11:32,520
the quality of the meat.
100
00:11:32,520 --> 00:11:36,680
They looked for breeds
more compatible with our environment.
101
00:11:36,680 --> 00:11:42,640
And that's when
they imported British breeds here.
102
00:11:42,640 --> 00:11:47,640
An Argentinean eats 60 kilos
of red meat per year
103
00:11:47,640 --> 00:11:51,840
whereas a European eats on average
around 18 kilos per year
104
00:11:51,840 --> 00:11:53,640
and an American 25 to 30.
105
00:11:53,640 --> 00:12:00,280
Over the last 10 years, Argentina
has changed the way it raises cattle.
106
00:12:00,280 --> 00:12:07,120
We created intensive feedlots
like in Europe or in the USA.
107
00:12:10,480 --> 00:12:16,560
Europe buys from us
meat coming from open field farms,
108
00:12:16,560 --> 00:12:18,920
from cattle raised traditionally.
109
00:12:19,520 --> 00:12:22,920
Our production
from big intensive feedlots
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00:12:22,920 --> 00:12:29,240
is sold on our domestic market
or to South American countries.
111
00:13:26,920 --> 00:13:30,240
At home, my mother
handles the barbecue.
112
00:13:31,000 --> 00:13:32,600
She taught me a lot.
113
00:13:32,600 --> 00:13:36,240
It is very important
to use cooking salt.
114
00:13:36,240 --> 00:13:40,800
Table salt does not penetrate the meat.
115
00:13:40,800 --> 00:13:44,280
Table salt stays like a film
on the meat.
116
00:13:50,400 --> 00:13:52,080
These are ribs.
117
00:13:53,440 --> 00:13:56,280
Ribs are from the central part
of the animal.
118
00:13:57,000 --> 00:13:59,440
Argentineans eat a lot of ribs.
119
00:13:59,440 --> 00:14:04,240
They eat these more
than rib eyes or sirloins.
120
00:14:04,240 --> 00:14:08,480
If you're invited
to an Argentinean family,
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00:14:08,480 --> 00:14:11,840
you will eat this or a bavette.
122
00:14:11,840 --> 00:14:13,480
Here is a bavette.
123
00:14:14,040 --> 00:14:17,200
We eat a lot of it in Argentina.
124
00:14:17,200 --> 00:14:23,120
For all events, Sunday lunches,
birthdays, first Communions,
125
00:14:23,120 --> 00:14:25,400
we always eat bavette or ribs.
126
00:14:25,840 --> 00:14:30,480
In this cut,
you have a rib eye and a chop.
127
00:14:31,440 --> 00:14:35,360
American customers love it
because it's big.
128
00:14:35,360 --> 00:14:40,480
They take pictures with it
and eat it with their fingers.
129
00:14:41,360 --> 00:14:43,520
They're amazed by it.
130
00:15:02,120 --> 00:15:04,880
Hello, I am Marcos Bassi.
131
00:15:29,000 --> 00:15:30,840
Brazilians love meat.
132
00:15:30,840 --> 00:15:35,560
Brazilians gather
with family and friends
133
00:15:35,560 --> 00:15:38,480
and eat a lot of meat
on these occasions.
134
00:15:38,480 --> 00:15:40,920
They don't like fat meat.
135
00:15:42,760 --> 00:15:45,640
- Do you plunge the meat in brine?
- Yes.
136
00:15:51,480 --> 00:15:53,160
It's water and salt.
137
00:16:12,520 --> 00:16:17,080
Why is Brazil breeding Nellore
138
00:16:17,080 --> 00:16:20,760
instead of high quality beef?
139
00:16:20,760 --> 00:16:23,840
Because it's adapted
to the Brazilian climate.
140
00:16:23,840 --> 00:16:28,560
We know that people don't like
Nellore meat because it's hard.
141
00:16:28,560 --> 00:16:35,360
We have tried
the intensive feedlot system...
142
00:16:36,760 --> 00:16:40,520
and crossbreeding
with European Angus or Simmental
143
00:16:41,000 --> 00:16:46,600
in order to improve
Brazilian meat quality.
144
00:16:46,600 --> 00:16:50,800
But in Brazil,
the crossbred animals or pure Angus,
145
00:16:50,800 --> 00:16:53,560
have a lower resistance to Lyme disease.
146
00:16:54,400 --> 00:16:58,200
They contract diseases easily.
They're not suited to our climate.
147
00:16:58,200 --> 00:17:01,000
They suffer from the heat,
they need more care,
148
00:17:01,360 --> 00:17:04,840
and they need more worming powder.
149
00:17:06,200 --> 00:17:08,360
Talking about one chef...
150
00:17:10,000 --> 00:17:14,440
doesn't mean you forget the other chefs.
151
00:17:14,440 --> 00:17:17,400
Each chef has his specialty.
152
00:17:19,440 --> 00:17:24,480
Every chef I met
did wonderful things for me.
153
00:17:24,480 --> 00:17:27,840
All the ones who came to Brazil,
I welcomed them here.
154
00:17:27,840 --> 00:17:34,040
They cooked exceptional dishes for me.
It was great with all of them.
155
00:17:34,040 --> 00:17:40,360
I can't think of one dish
that would be the best.
156
00:17:40,360 --> 00:17:46,080
I haven't forgotten any of them.
I'm not saying this to please them.
157
00:17:46,080 --> 00:17:52,640
I was just a kid
who did not have this culinary culture.
158
00:17:52,640 --> 00:17:57,640
That's why for me,
everything was amazing and delicious.
159
00:18:10,000 --> 00:18:11,920
Too many emotions.
160
00:18:13,800 --> 00:18:18,000
A few months after this interview,
Marcos Bassi passed away.
161
00:18:18,440 --> 00:18:23,080
But the best meat I ever had...
162
00:18:24,160 --> 00:18:26,160
regarding restaurants,
163
00:18:26,920 --> 00:18:31,080
was 30 years ago at Peter Luger.
164
00:18:31,680 --> 00:18:37,680
I had a porterhouse steak there
and discovered prime beef.
165
00:18:38,440 --> 00:18:42,080
It was the first time
I ate meat with a lot of fat.
166
00:18:44,480 --> 00:18:46,320
I went back to Peter Luger
several times.
167
00:18:46,320 --> 00:18:48,720
They have a secret
to make sure their steak is unforgettable.
168
00:18:48,720 --> 00:18:50,160
It's cooked twice.
169
00:20:11,120 --> 00:20:15,000
The American steak (r)evolution
170
00:25:10,520 --> 00:25:12,240
We are in November.
171
00:25:12,240 --> 00:25:18,080
How do you get such tall grass?
172
00:25:19,000 --> 00:25:22,480
To have green grass like that,
173
00:25:22,920 --> 00:25:26,280
cattle stopped grazing here mid-August.
174
00:25:27,440 --> 00:25:33,320
But if you want dried grass,
175
00:25:33,320 --> 00:25:37,160
the cattle need to stop grazing here
around July 15
176
00:25:37,160 --> 00:25:39,840
so that your field lasts.
177
00:25:39,840 --> 00:25:44,800
If I'd stopped using the field in May,
the grass would push up the snow.
178
00:25:46,160 --> 00:25:49,200
It would be even easier
for the cattle to eat.
179
00:26:03,520 --> 00:26:05,720
Fred Morin, Joe Beef, Montreal.
180
00:26:05,720 --> 00:26:08,200
David McMillan, Joe Beef, Montreal.
181
00:26:08,200 --> 00:26:12,360
Some customers order only fries.
182
00:26:12,360 --> 00:26:16,360
If you pay $75 for a steak,
it must have everything.
183
00:26:16,720 --> 00:26:18,680
For me, quality means something,
184
00:26:18,680 --> 00:26:21,000
but it may mean something else
for the customers.
185
00:26:21,480 --> 00:26:24,480
Quality means
two different things for beef.
186
00:26:25,160 --> 00:26:29,480
For me, a good piece of red meat
comes from a small farm.
187
00:26:29,480 --> 00:26:32,560
It is a carcass we buy ourselves
and let mature
188
00:26:32,560 --> 00:26:36,640
and we both enjoy eating the steak.
189
00:26:36,640 --> 00:26:42,720
But the other measure for quality
is tenderness.
190
00:26:42,720 --> 00:26:45,920
But if it's not tender,
make sure you enjoy it anyway.
191
00:26:45,920 --> 00:26:50,880
Ask for mustard and a big knife,
192
00:26:50,880 --> 00:26:53,160
eat slowly.
193
00:26:53,160 --> 00:26:54,840
Give your steak a chance.
194
00:26:56,640 --> 00:27:01,760
What happened in North America
with wine
195
00:27:01,760 --> 00:27:06,720
is that people used to drink
new world wines with 15% of alcohol,
196
00:27:06,720 --> 00:27:10,480
full of oak and lots of sun.
Very strong wines.
197
00:27:10,480 --> 00:27:13,400
Now the trend is for natural wines.
198
00:27:13,400 --> 00:27:18,200
But we're very far from making people
do the same with beef.
199
00:30:55,880 --> 00:30:59,000
The three giant beef producers,
200
00:30:59,000 --> 00:31:03,120
Brazil, Argentina and the USA,
201
00:31:03,120 --> 00:31:05,360
are using British breeds.
202
00:31:05,360 --> 00:31:10,120
We also find British breeds
in South Africa, Australia, New Zealand,
203
00:31:10,120 --> 00:31:14,360
even in Japan.
204
00:31:14,360 --> 00:31:20,600
Japanese Wagyu has
some Angus genetics.
205
00:31:20,600 --> 00:31:24,120
British breeds have the advantage
of transforming grass into fat.
206
00:31:25,480 --> 00:31:28,480
Back to the roots
207
00:36:52,880 --> 00:36:56,800
English breeds
like Angus or Hereford
208
00:36:57,480 --> 00:37:00,040
are smaller.
209
00:37:00,760 --> 00:37:03,360
The British selected them
in the 19th century
210
00:37:03,360 --> 00:37:05,160
for their ability to get fat.
211
00:37:05,160 --> 00:37:10,200
English breeds have an early maturity
and grow fat quickly.
212
00:37:10,200 --> 00:37:14,600
British people have known how
to roast meat since the 16th century.
213
00:37:14,600 --> 00:37:18,040
They built a business model around it.
214
00:48:40,480 --> 00:48:42,480
The world's best cattle breeders
are the British.
215
00:48:42,480 --> 00:48:45,760
When we say that in France,
it's shocking!
216
00:48:45,760 --> 00:48:49,680
Everybody thinks
about mad cow disease
217
00:48:49,680 --> 00:48:54,800
and the age-old rivalry
between France and Great Britain.
218
00:48:54,800 --> 00:48:59,720
It's impossible
for a French butcher to say
219
00:48:59,720 --> 00:49:03,240
that British breeders are the best.
220
00:49:03,240 --> 00:49:06,480
I said it and I was fired
from the French Butchery Union.
221
00:49:06,480 --> 00:49:10,000
Out of the French Butchery Union!
Because I dared to say that.
222
00:50:53,480 --> 00:50:54,880
Welcome.
223
00:51:00,400 --> 00:51:05,040
Regarding beef,
the big difference in Japan
224
00:51:05,560 --> 00:51:09,280
is that we eat it as a side order.
225
00:51:09,280 --> 00:51:16,320
Japanese people use it
as a condiment for rice.
226
00:51:16,320 --> 00:51:20,400
For a good combination with rice,
227
00:51:20,400 --> 00:51:25,840
Japanese beef has been
developed for tenderness
228
00:51:25,840 --> 00:51:27,840
rather than texture.
229
00:51:28,640 --> 00:51:34,920
Well, since around 1900,
230
00:51:34,920 --> 00:51:40,680
breeders have been putting great effort
into developing tender beef.
231
00:51:40,680 --> 00:51:46,560
And then in the year 1944,
232
00:51:46,560 --> 00:51:49,680
a new breed
called Japanese Black was raised
233
00:51:49,680 --> 00:51:53,760
with the main objective
of tenderness.
234
00:52:04,880 --> 00:52:09,600
They are showing only 10 different cuts.
There isn't a large choice.
235
00:52:09,600 --> 00:52:13,520
In France, there are
more products on display.
236
00:52:13,520 --> 00:52:17,480
We try to make customers hungry.
237
00:52:17,480 --> 00:52:21,440
It's funny to see how fat
is perceived differently here.
238
00:52:21,440 --> 00:52:25,480
In Japan, the fat is displayed.
In France, we hide it.
239
00:52:26,760 --> 00:52:31,040
Compared to the West,
rather than steak
240
00:52:31,040 --> 00:52:33,480
we like meat
that goes well with rice,
241
00:52:33,480 --> 00:52:39,600
for yakiniku, sukiyaki,
shabu-shabu or gyundon.
242
00:52:39,600 --> 00:52:45,560
We like thinly-sliced beef
more than thick pieces
243
00:52:46,480 --> 00:52:49,480
and also minced beef.
244
00:52:49,480 --> 00:52:53,040
Those types of beef
sell much more.
245
00:52:53,040 --> 00:52:57,000
That's our market.
246
00:52:57,000 --> 00:53:01,320
The butcher dresses the piece of meat
in front of the customer.
247
00:53:03,400 --> 00:53:06,360
In France, we would do it
before putting it on display.
248
00:53:06,360 --> 00:53:09,600
We may even present it
as a roast beef.
249
00:53:09,600 --> 00:53:14,640
We would never show
fat like that.
250
00:53:14,640 --> 00:53:19,280
Or we would cut it in steaks.
251
00:53:19,640 --> 00:53:22,480
Their way of doing things
is very interesting.
252
00:53:23,040 --> 00:53:25,720
French consumers
aren't used to that.
253
00:53:30,480 --> 00:53:32,080
Welcome.
254
00:53:34,480 --> 00:53:38,480
The fat
in the Tajima sirloin
255
00:53:38,480 --> 00:53:42,280
is classified in 12 categories.
256
00:53:42,280 --> 00:53:49,440
Only grades 6 to 12
are classified as Kobe beef.
257
00:53:49,440 --> 00:53:52,560
Five and under
are called Tajima beef.
258
00:53:53,040 --> 00:53:57,400
We call it Kobe beef
when the fat marbling
259
00:53:57,400 --> 00:54:02,000
is exceptional
within the Tajima breed.
260
00:54:02,000 --> 00:54:07,040
The flavor in the fat
gives meat a wonderful taste
261
00:54:07,600 --> 00:54:14,280
and compared to other breeds,
the amount of flavorful fat is high.
262
00:54:14,280 --> 00:54:19,600
Kobe beef contains
this flavorful marbled fat,
263
00:54:19,600 --> 00:54:22,680
which is why it tastes so good.
264
00:54:22,680 --> 00:54:27,040
And when people actually eat it,
they say, "It's delicious!"
265
00:54:53,160 --> 00:54:59,640
Kobe beef cows have short, thin legs.
266
00:55:00,200 --> 00:55:03,920
All the work is done
on the back of the animal.
267
00:55:04,840 --> 00:55:07,480
Actually the animal is turned
into a barrel with legs.
268
00:55:07,480 --> 00:55:12,200
The Japanese want big curves.
269
00:55:12,200 --> 00:55:16,240
They don't care about the legs.
270
00:55:16,240 --> 00:55:23,240
I play Mozart
all day and night for the cows.
271
00:55:23,240 --> 00:55:28,720
I am sure classical music calms
the animals and helps them sleep.
272
00:55:29,720 --> 00:55:32,680
A relaxing environment
produces better meat.
273
00:55:34,240 --> 00:55:36,760
So I leave it on.
274
00:55:37,560 --> 00:55:42,080
Sake, Japanese rice wine...
275
00:55:43,480 --> 00:55:48,240
is also said to be effective.
276
00:55:48,600 --> 00:55:51,480
So I massage the animals with it.
277
00:55:51,480 --> 00:55:55,120
Beer is good for digestion.
278
00:55:55,120 --> 00:55:58,600
But I don't give it to my animals.
279
00:55:59,040 --> 00:56:04,280
We do occasionally massage the cows,
but there are too many of them.
280
00:56:09,080 --> 00:56:11,440
So you don't use beer?
281
00:56:14,600 --> 00:56:17,000
Do you know farmers
who give beer to their animals?
282
00:56:17,760 --> 00:56:21,640
I know some farmers who say they do,
but I think they drink it!
283
00:56:22,520 --> 00:56:26,480
I tried. But the animals
were getting drunk too fast.
284
00:56:43,400 --> 00:56:46,040
The food comes from up there.
285
00:56:48,800 --> 00:56:51,480
We can control the output.
286
00:57:13,200 --> 00:57:18,640
All of this is Tajima beef.
287
00:57:20,040 --> 00:57:23,840
Depending on the quality
and quantity of the marbling,
288
00:57:23,840 --> 00:57:25,880
it'll be classified as Kobe beef or not.
289
00:57:31,440 --> 00:57:38,080
The layout of the marbling
is the most important factor.
290
00:57:41,800 --> 00:57:47,400
We assign up to A5,
based on specific standards.
291
00:57:48,480 --> 00:57:51,240
This is the finest one
in the market today.
292
00:57:53,200 --> 00:57:56,920
Very nice marbling. Well balanced.
This is the champion.
293
00:57:56,920 --> 00:58:02,800
The fat is well spread
in the muscle.
294
00:58:02,800 --> 00:58:05,280
I'm eager to know its price.
295
00:58:05,280 --> 00:58:07,720
$20,000.
296
00:58:11,200 --> 00:58:13,240
I need to take a picture.
It's so beautiful.
297
00:58:15,080 --> 00:58:17,840
In France, this one
would be really cheap.
298
00:58:18,480 --> 00:58:22,480
The huge amount of fat
would make its price go down.
299
00:59:08,200 --> 00:59:12,000
But Kobe beef is not
the best Japanese beef.
300
01:02:18,760 --> 01:02:20,400
It's incredible.
301
01:02:25,040 --> 01:02:26,440
It's crazy.
302
01:02:30,240 --> 01:02:33,560
It melts
yet is crispy on the outside.
303
01:02:33,560 --> 01:02:37,280
But it really melts!
It disappears in your mouth.
304
01:02:45,160 --> 01:02:46,880
It's amazing.
305
01:03:01,360 --> 01:03:02,600
Magnificent.
306
01:03:03,880 --> 01:03:05,240
It's moving.
307
01:03:50,400 --> 01:03:52,600
I forgot what I was supposed to say.
308
01:03:53,440 --> 01:03:56,200
We are Shinishi
and Mutsumi Konishi.
309
01:03:56,200 --> 01:03:59,600
We raise Matsusaka beef
with all our love.
310
01:03:59,600 --> 01:04:02,080
We are very happy
to be interviewed.
311
01:04:15,600 --> 01:04:21,840
The farm began operating
in the Meiji Era.
312
01:04:21,840 --> 01:04:26,160
And over the many years and decades,
313
01:04:26,160 --> 01:04:32,240
we've continued to protect this breed
with its long history.
314
01:04:33,040 --> 01:04:38,000
We're grateful to our ancestors
and we'll keep working hard.
315
01:04:38,000 --> 01:04:42,480
You must use this sake spray
and scrub them with straw.
316
01:04:49,080 --> 01:04:50,640
This is how we massage.
317
01:05:05,480 --> 01:05:09,840
Do you massage
for aesthetic reasons?
318
01:05:09,840 --> 01:05:14,800
No, it's for blood circulation
and to soften the fat under the skin.
319
01:05:14,800 --> 01:05:22,040
Kobe beef is only made
with males or castrated males.
320
01:05:22,040 --> 01:05:26,040
However, Matsusaka beef
is only made from females.
321
01:05:26,040 --> 01:05:30,400
They are virgin females.
That's the main difference.
322
01:05:41,080 --> 01:05:44,640
Basically, they are eating all day.
323
01:05:45,040 --> 01:05:48,200
If they eat that all their life -
This feed is very fatty.
324
01:05:50,280 --> 01:05:53,480
Cows are herbivores.
So this is a problem.
325
01:05:53,480 --> 01:05:59,400
And growing grain in today's
ecological world isn't the best idea.
326
01:06:00,800 --> 01:06:04,760
The Swedish Wagyu (r)evolution
327
01:06:40,800 --> 01:06:44,600
It's incredible
how they let us go up to them.
328
01:08:13,160 --> 01:08:16,160
There are many legends
329
01:08:16,160 --> 01:08:21,280
about how Wagyu came to Europe
330
01:08:21,280 --> 01:08:24,680
because the Japanese
don't export Wagyu semen.
331
01:08:26,720 --> 01:08:29,320
The Japanese told me
332
01:08:29,680 --> 01:08:34,520
that some sperm was wrongly sent
333
01:08:34,520 --> 01:08:38,480
to a lab in the Netherlands
334
01:08:39,160 --> 01:08:41,040
for medical reasons.
335
01:08:43,000 --> 01:08:47,320
And from there, the sperm was stolen.
336
01:08:47,320 --> 01:08:53,280
And the Wagyu wave
started all over the world.
337
01:11:46,920 --> 01:11:51,200
Today, all over the world,
people grill or roast the meat.
338
01:11:51,200 --> 01:11:55,760
To cook meat that way, it has to be low
in collagen with a good fat balance.
339
01:11:57,000 --> 01:11:59,920
So we need fast-growing animals
that get fat.
340
01:11:59,920 --> 01:12:04,280
If we can get them fat
without too much grain, it's even better.
341
01:12:28,320 --> 01:12:29,520
I'm 22.
342
01:12:29,520 --> 01:12:33,840
The hardest thing is
to assert yourself in a man's world.
343
01:12:33,840 --> 01:12:38,240
It's tough
because it's a macho world.
344
01:12:39,360 --> 01:12:43,600
As a woman, I face prejudice.
345
01:12:43,600 --> 01:12:47,720
Some words really hurt.
346
01:12:48,880 --> 01:12:53,200
You can raise cattle and be happy,
but you need to fight.
347
01:12:53,200 --> 01:12:57,080
Happiness is given to me
every day by my animals.
348
01:12:57,080 --> 01:12:59,600
But I also work with humans.
349
01:12:59,600 --> 01:13:03,440
That's the problem.
350
01:13:04,680 --> 01:13:07,040
First, I would like to save the breed...
351
01:13:08,080 --> 01:13:11,400
and then be able to say
352
01:13:11,400 --> 01:13:14,440
that although I am a young girl,
353
01:13:14,440 --> 01:13:18,360
and there are numerous problems
in this business in France,
354
01:13:18,720 --> 01:13:22,160
there are solutions.
355
01:13:22,720 --> 01:13:25,600
You have to fight at first,
but in the end,
356
01:13:25,600 --> 01:13:27,560
there's a certain satisfaction.
357
01:13:28,680 --> 01:13:33,560
We're at
the very southwest end of Sauternes.
358
01:13:33,560 --> 01:13:37,760
Here you have the Ciron River
which makes Sauternes wine
359
01:13:37,760 --> 01:13:44,480
by creating this fog in the fall
that surrounds the grapes
360
01:13:44,480 --> 01:13:47,160
and generates
the Sauternes's noble rot.
361
01:13:47,160 --> 01:13:52,760
Tenant farmers working
for large Bordeaux landowners,
362
01:13:53,480 --> 01:13:56,280
who had farms in the Landes Forest,
363
01:13:56,280 --> 01:13:59,360
used Bazadais cattle
as working animals.
364
01:13:59,360 --> 01:14:06,720
Before World War II,
there were 160,000 Bazadais cattle.
365
01:14:06,720 --> 01:14:12,160
Today, there are 3,000 animals left.
366
01:14:12,560 --> 01:14:14,000
Stop!
367
01:14:16,480 --> 01:14:18,120
You always ruin it.
368
01:14:19,000 --> 01:14:21,200
The best way to grill meat
369
01:14:21,200 --> 01:14:28,160
is with three-year-old branches
from cabernet sauvignon vineyards.
370
01:14:28,160 --> 01:14:30,800
Bazadais meat isn't the best
in the world today.
371
01:14:30,800 --> 01:14:35,680
It's a very good basis
with interesting strengths.
372
01:14:36,280 --> 01:14:40,640
But we need to improve
the quality of the meat.
373
01:14:40,640 --> 01:14:45,480
And for that, we need to use genetics
and cross it with different breeds.
374
01:14:45,840 --> 01:14:49,560
Well, the butcher wants more fat.
375
01:14:50,560 --> 01:14:52,000
More marbling.
376
01:14:52,400 --> 01:14:56,160
My older cattle
have a better marbling.
377
01:14:56,160 --> 01:14:58,400
The one we ate yesterday had marbling.
378
01:14:59,600 --> 01:15:02,280
Not a lot but some.
379
01:15:02,800 --> 01:15:04,720
Yes -
380
01:15:04,720 --> 01:15:06,520
- It was an old cow.
- Four years old.
381
01:15:06,520 --> 01:15:10,080
In my shops,
I sell 17 carcasses a week.
382
01:15:10,080 --> 01:15:13,800
Seven come from England,
383
01:15:13,800 --> 01:15:16,480
from Tim Wilson,
a single breeder.
384
01:15:16,480 --> 01:15:19,400
This makes up
for what I can't find in France.
385
01:15:19,400 --> 01:15:23,400
Yesterday I went to Charolais
and organized a meat testing.
386
01:15:23,400 --> 01:15:25,480
All the pro-Charolais guys
387
01:15:25,480 --> 01:15:28,480
listened to me saying
their meat isn't good.
388
01:15:28,480 --> 01:15:33,680
Even Franck told them
Charolais won't make it in his top 10.
389
01:15:34,680 --> 01:15:36,480
They all showed dark faces,
390
01:15:36,480 --> 01:15:41,000
but when they tasted longhorn,
they all agreed.
391
01:15:41,000 --> 01:15:43,240
They acknowledged the fact
that Tim's meat is exceptional.
392
01:15:43,240 --> 01:15:46,560
The Bazadais has some
tiny imperfections that can be fixed.
393
01:15:47,000 --> 01:15:53,280
And you shouldn't spend more
on grain or food for that.
394
01:15:53,280 --> 01:15:56,800
That doesn't make economic sense.
In France, we do that.
395
01:15:56,800 --> 01:16:01,320
Blonde d'Aquitaine
has no fat and no taste.
396
01:16:01,320 --> 01:16:04,400
How do we correct that?
We give them lots of grain.
397
01:16:04,400 --> 01:16:08,360
And it costs a fortune
the breeder can't afford.
398
01:16:08,360 --> 01:16:11,600
There's no business logic
and no market price for it.
399
01:16:11,600 --> 01:16:16,280
As I always say,
I'm happy to help my daughter,
400
01:16:16,280 --> 01:16:21,280
but there should be 10 or 20
new breeders around here every year.
401
01:16:22,800 --> 01:16:25,240
Because if we want to increase
demand for Bazadais meat,
402
01:16:25,240 --> 01:16:27,760
but can only handle 35 mothers,
403
01:16:27,760 --> 01:16:31,440
it'd be more efficient
to have 10 farms with 35 mothers.
404
01:16:31,440 --> 01:16:36,240
Socially, it would be smarter than helping
establish one big farm with 350 mothers.
405
01:16:36,240 --> 01:16:39,160
Big farms are fragile.
406
01:16:39,160 --> 01:16:42,280
Unfortunately, we're stuck
407
01:16:42,280 --> 01:16:49,040
with local politicians
who've only seen cows on TV.
408
01:16:53,840 --> 01:16:57,800
There is one good example in France
and that is Aubrac.
409
01:16:57,800 --> 01:17:01,520
Until the 1970s, Aubrac cattle
were used only as dairy cattle
410
01:17:01,520 --> 01:17:03,480
to make Laguiole cheese.
411
01:17:03,480 --> 01:17:05,760
In winter, they stayed in the shed.
412
01:17:05,760 --> 01:17:10,640
In summer, they went
in the mountains with a shepherd.
413
01:17:10,640 --> 01:17:15,480
In the '70s, it became
very difficult to find shepherds
414
01:17:15,480 --> 01:17:19,000
who'd spend six months
in the mountains
415
01:17:19,000 --> 01:17:21,200
with their cows, away from girls.
416
01:17:21,200 --> 01:17:23,480
But Aubrac is a very specific land.
417
01:17:23,480 --> 01:17:26,160
You can't have corn
or wheat fields there.
418
01:17:26,160 --> 01:17:28,440
So they had to find a new direction.
419
01:17:28,440 --> 01:17:33,280
They remembered
that this breed of cattle had been used
420
01:17:33,280 --> 01:17:35,560
for meat in the past.
421
01:17:35,560 --> 01:17:37,800
So they did some work
on their gene pool
422
01:17:37,800 --> 01:17:42,120
in order to improve
the quality of the meat.
423
01:17:42,120 --> 01:17:48,480
Today, in my opinion, Aubrac
produces the best meat in France.
424
01:17:48,480 --> 01:17:52,600
We banned corn,
silage and corn silage.
425
01:18:06,360 --> 01:18:08,640
We cook beef with clarified butter.
426
01:18:08,640 --> 01:18:11,800
We take out the whey
to make clarified butter.
427
01:18:11,800 --> 01:18:14,880
You keep the aroma of butter
without the inconvenience.
428
01:18:14,880 --> 01:18:21,880
You can use higher temperatures
and it doesn't burn.
429
01:18:21,880 --> 01:18:23,880
You need a very hot pan?
430
01:18:23,880 --> 01:18:25,720
- No!
- Yes!
431
01:18:27,160 --> 01:18:30,640
When you sear the meat,
you create like a shell
432
01:18:31,320 --> 01:18:33,920
in which the meat juice is trapped.
433
01:18:34,360 --> 01:18:36,560
Look at its color.
434
01:18:36,560 --> 01:18:40,480
Listen to this music.
435
01:18:40,920 --> 01:18:43,280
It's soft, it's clear.
436
01:18:43,280 --> 01:18:47,280
At the end,
we add some normal butter.
437
01:18:47,280 --> 01:18:50,200
It will bring
extra aroma to the meat.
438
01:18:50,200 --> 01:18:52,760
But it burns very fast.
439
01:18:52,760 --> 01:18:55,280
So I turned down the heat.
440
01:18:55,280 --> 01:18:58,400
You use a very good salted butter,
441
01:18:59,160 --> 01:19:01,360
some black pepper
and it's done.
442
01:19:10,680 --> 01:19:13,240
It deserved to rest
a little bit more.
443
01:19:20,480 --> 01:19:21,920
It's delicious.
444
01:19:22,480 --> 01:19:25,680
The taste goes deep
and lasts in your mouth.
445
01:19:29,160 --> 01:19:34,720
Tenderloin does not taste the same.
446
01:19:34,720 --> 01:19:38,120
It has a different taste and texture.
447
01:19:38,120 --> 01:19:40,720
Because it is the rump.
448
01:19:42,520 --> 01:19:45,120
The rump is the best part
of the animal.
449
01:19:45,120 --> 01:19:48,640
If you don't have tenderloin,
use a rump instead.
450
01:19:48,640 --> 01:19:51,800
Like Michel said, it's very different.
451
01:19:52,360 --> 01:19:58,240
For me, the rump is the tastiest.
452
01:19:58,240 --> 01:19:59,920
That's what we have here.
453
01:19:59,920 --> 01:20:02,520
You need to cook meat
with wisdom.
454
01:20:02,520 --> 01:20:04,880
You need to love it,
take your time.
455
01:20:04,880 --> 01:20:07,040
The best meat cooked wrong
is a disaster.
456
01:20:07,040 --> 01:20:13,000
The butcher needs to explain
how to cook the meat.
457
01:20:13,000 --> 01:20:17,120
Often customers tell me
they know how to cook it.
458
01:20:17,720 --> 01:20:21,080
You should shoot a short film for them.
459
01:20:21,080 --> 01:20:24,360
I'll do that.
460
01:21:05,120 --> 01:21:11,480
We're young.
We're not just butchers in white aprons.
461
01:21:11,480 --> 01:21:13,800
If we want to create
new ways of working,
462
01:21:14,400 --> 01:21:18,280
we need to exchange ideas
with foreign butchers.
463
01:21:18,280 --> 01:21:21,080
When I was young,
464
01:21:21,080 --> 01:21:25,840
I was ashamed
of being a butcher.
465
01:21:25,840 --> 01:21:28,720
Now I'm proud to be a butcher.
466
01:21:30,040 --> 01:21:36,560
I proved that being a butcher
isn't just cutting meat.
467
01:21:36,560 --> 01:21:41,040
You need marketing skills
and the desire to do things right.
468
01:21:41,040 --> 01:21:45,720
Having fun is the main thing.
If you're not, you should quit.
469
01:21:46,720 --> 01:21:52,000
Ladies and gentlemen, welcome!
470
01:21:52,000 --> 01:21:59,480
Thanks for coming
to the House of Steak!
471
01:22:05,840 --> 01:22:09,200
First you will eat beef carpaccio,
472
01:22:09,200 --> 01:22:14,800
then the famous Florentine T-bone!
473
01:22:17,720 --> 01:22:20,440
And never forget:
474
01:22:20,440 --> 01:22:22,880
To beef or not to beef!
475
01:22:40,200 --> 01:22:44,480
I am Dario Cecchini.
I'm a butcher in Panzano in Chianti.
476
01:22:44,480 --> 01:22:48,200
It's a small village
with 1,000 inhabitants
477
01:22:48,200 --> 01:22:50,480
in the center of Tuscany.
478
01:22:50,480 --> 01:22:54,240
Tuscany is the center of Italy.
479
01:22:54,240 --> 01:22:58,000
And for me,
Tuscany is the center of the world.
480
01:22:59,640 --> 01:23:05,920
In my butcher shop,
I try to continue my parents' tradition.
481
01:23:05,920 --> 01:23:13,320
My father and grandfather were butchers.
I'm the eighth generation.
482
01:23:19,880 --> 01:23:23,400
I have been a butcher for 39 years.
483
01:23:23,400 --> 01:23:30,240
I do this job because I feel
responsible for killing animals.
484
01:23:30,240 --> 01:23:32,320
I respect meat
485
01:23:32,320 --> 01:23:35,760
and I want to use
all parts of the animal,
486
01:23:35,760 --> 01:23:38,800
beef and pork.
487
01:23:39,360 --> 01:23:41,280
I have a butcher shop
and two restaurants.
488
01:23:41,280 --> 01:23:46,320
In Solociccia, you eat all of the animal.
And this is the steak house.
489
01:23:47,560 --> 01:23:51,880
Every day I explain to customers
that the whole animal is tasty.
490
01:23:51,880 --> 01:23:55,640
Not just the sirloin or the T-bone.
491
01:23:55,640 --> 01:24:01,600
But in order to eat it all,
you need a good butcher.
492
01:24:02,240 --> 01:24:04,880
The best steak in the world
comes with the best butcher.
493
01:24:04,880 --> 01:24:09,120
The Chianina is a beautiful breed,
elegant and tall.
494
01:24:09,120 --> 01:24:11,120
It doesn't have much fat.
495
01:24:11,120 --> 01:24:14,680
The breed is rare in Italy
and in the world.
496
01:24:14,680 --> 01:24:17,440
It gives real Florentine steak.
497
01:24:17,440 --> 01:24:20,520
In this part of Italy,
in the Chianti Classico,
498
01:24:20,520 --> 01:24:24,040
40 years ago,
in the '60s and '70s,
499
01:24:24,040 --> 01:24:30,920
it was common
to see Chianina cattle in farms here.
500
01:24:31,880 --> 01:24:33,680
Nowadays, since 2000,
501
01:24:33,680 --> 01:24:39,200
it is really uncommon in Chianti
and in Tuscany as a whole.
502
01:24:39,200 --> 01:24:43,320
Our farm is organic and biodynamic.
503
01:24:43,600 --> 01:24:49,880
Our goal is to link all our activities.
504
01:24:49,880 --> 01:24:56,880
We wanted a system which included
wine, olive oil, farming and the cattle.
505
01:24:56,880 --> 01:25:02,640
We grow barley here
that our cattle eat.
506
01:25:02,640 --> 01:25:11,480
And then we use the manure
as fertilizer.
507
01:25:11,840 --> 01:25:17,400
So we fertilize our land
with our products.
508
01:25:17,920 --> 01:25:22,160
And so,
we limit our external needs.
509
01:25:22,640 --> 01:25:24,320
We have a closed system.
510
01:25:24,320 --> 01:25:27,520
We are convinced
that this is the right solution.
511
01:25:27,520 --> 01:25:29,920
It's a beautiful idea.
512
01:25:29,920 --> 01:25:32,560
But it takes passion.
513
01:25:56,400 --> 01:26:00,680
Our job here
is to select animals
514
01:26:00,680 --> 01:26:03,120
with a specific personality.
515
01:26:03,120 --> 01:26:06,480
We're not looking
for a specific breed of cattle.
516
01:26:06,480 --> 01:26:13,400
We use genuine, old
local breeds.
517
01:26:13,400 --> 01:26:18,760
We're looking for specific animals
with a specific character.
518
01:26:18,760 --> 01:26:23,440
We believe that this specific
character lets us obtain good meat
519
01:26:23,440 --> 01:26:25,760
with distinctive, unique aromas.
520
01:26:26,360 --> 01:26:28,480
We look for animals all over Spain,
521
01:26:28,480 --> 01:26:32,040
in the whole Iberian Peninsula,
in Portugal,
522
01:26:32,040 --> 01:26:38,720
but also in the Carpathian Mountains
and further afield.
523
01:26:38,720 --> 01:26:42,480
We look for docile animals
with a noble character.
524
01:26:42,880 --> 01:26:50,480
This kind of character
facilitates a specific marbling.
525
01:26:50,480 --> 01:26:52,440
All of them are castrated bulls.
526
01:26:54,480 --> 01:26:56,280
Their meat is way better.
527
01:26:56,280 --> 01:27:00,480
Castration improves...
528
01:27:04,400 --> 01:27:06,480
the quality of the meat.
529
01:27:10,200 --> 01:27:15,800
People say male beef is harder.
No?
530
01:27:15,800 --> 01:27:17,600
Not necessarily.
531
01:27:17,600 --> 01:27:22,240
Of course,
if it is a working animal,
532
01:27:22,240 --> 01:27:25,680
the muscles will have more fiber.
533
01:27:25,680 --> 01:27:29,640
But that's even better as we need this
for the dry-aging process.
534
01:27:30,440 --> 01:27:33,720
Castrated beef is healthier
535
01:27:34,400 --> 01:27:40,440
because males generate testosterone
536
01:27:41,240 --> 01:27:44,360
that limits bad cholesterol
and saturated fat.
537
01:27:44,360 --> 01:27:49,360
It acts like
a sort of hormonal cleansing.
538
01:27:49,360 --> 01:27:54,480
It increases
the unsaturated fat rate.
539
01:27:55,280 --> 01:28:01,000
The fat will be tastier,
more elegant and healthier.
540
01:28:01,480 --> 01:28:04,240
Pezunias, come here!
541
01:28:20,720 --> 01:28:23,200
- How old is he?
- Ten years old.
542
01:28:24,680 --> 01:28:27,520
- How much does he weigh?
- 2,000 kilos.
543
01:28:28,360 --> 01:28:32,640
- Are you going to kill him?
- Of course.
544
01:28:36,760 --> 01:28:43,480
He's reserved for customers from
Saudi Arabia, America and all over.
545
01:28:45,320 --> 01:28:47,720
He's very famous.
He's been on TV.
546
01:28:51,680 --> 01:28:53,320
Stay calm!
547
01:28:59,840 --> 01:29:01,240
Be careful!
548
01:29:09,760 --> 01:29:12,240
He likes to play.
549
01:29:28,560 --> 01:29:30,040
Close the door!
550
01:29:37,800 --> 01:29:39,840
Be careful!
551
01:30:11,320 --> 01:30:14,760
You see? He's wary.
552
01:30:14,760 --> 01:30:16,680
He has a bad temper.
553
01:30:18,200 --> 01:30:22,520
This kind of behavior is not good.
554
01:30:22,520 --> 01:30:27,120
The other one
is a much quieter animal.
555
01:30:27,120 --> 01:30:29,480
He will have more marbling.
556
01:30:31,280 --> 01:30:35,080
The first one will only have cover fat.
557
01:30:39,240 --> 01:30:42,720
It's a Barrosã.
It's a Portuguese breed.
558
01:30:42,720 --> 01:30:46,840
These animals
are very expensive to keep.
559
01:30:46,840 --> 01:30:51,800
They don't give milk or calves.
I just raise them for meat.
560
01:30:51,800 --> 01:30:55,560
We give him food for 11 years.
561
01:30:55,560 --> 01:31:02,920
An animal like this can eat
eight to 15 kilos of grain a day.
562
01:31:02,920 --> 01:31:06,480
Plus 20 to 30 kilos of hay.
563
01:31:06,480 --> 01:31:11,680
If you multiply that by 10 years,
the cost is phenomenal.
564
01:31:31,480 --> 01:31:34,680
This animal is 14 years old.
565
01:31:36,240 --> 01:31:42,040
He is in perfectly good shape.
566
01:31:46,480 --> 01:31:51,120
Look. I'm 1 meter 74 tall.
567
01:31:59,440 --> 01:32:01,640
You're beautiful.
568
01:33:01,640 --> 01:33:03,520
When the animal is too young,
569
01:33:03,520 --> 01:33:09,360
the fat is too liquid and melts.
570
01:33:11,760 --> 01:33:16,480
Like everything in life,
fat needs time to get better.
571
01:33:17,080 --> 01:33:22,560
An animal which isn't happy
won't give good steak like this.
572
01:33:58,120 --> 01:34:02,480
The inside of the meat has to be
at 46 or 47 degrees Celsius maximum.
573
01:34:03,640 --> 01:34:09,880
It has to be taken out
at 48 or 49 degrees.
574
01:34:10,400 --> 01:34:13,440
Once it's out, I don't let it breathe.
575
01:34:13,440 --> 01:34:19,520
The temperature will go up one
or two degrees until it is served.
576
01:34:44,000 --> 01:34:48,840
It's a Rubia Gallega.
Seven years old.
577
01:34:49,600 --> 01:34:52,800
Each muscle must be cut
in a specific way.
578
01:35:09,080 --> 01:35:10,800
It tastes better than Wagyu.
579
01:35:12,320 --> 01:35:15,800
It's better meat than Wagyu.
580
01:35:30,680 --> 01:35:32,440
It's like butter, isn't it?
581
01:35:33,000 --> 01:35:39,520
What an incredible taste.
Butter, yes. But not just butter.
582
01:35:39,520 --> 01:35:45,240
There's thyme,
there's grass, there's -
583
01:35:46,800 --> 01:35:49,600
This animal was 13 years old.
584
01:35:50,240 --> 01:35:55,520
Rubia meat exists thanks to dry-aging.
You can't eat it if it's not dry-aged.
585
01:35:58,800 --> 01:36:00,680
The best steak in the world.
586
01:36:03,680 --> 01:36:08,080
Maturing beef means
letting the meat hang
587
01:36:08,080 --> 01:36:11,720
for a certain time,
right after the animal is killed.
588
01:38:23,480 --> 01:38:26,000
The fat will change its taste
589
01:38:26,000 --> 01:38:29,920
depending on the type
of cold room you use.
590
01:38:29,920 --> 01:38:36,240
Cement or plastic cold rooms
give different aromas.
591
01:38:36,240 --> 01:38:43,640
That's how we get
tasty meat with specific flavors.
592
01:38:43,640 --> 01:38:46,200
The meat tastes like hazelnut.
593
01:38:46,200 --> 01:38:48,680
It's like making cheese.
594
01:38:48,680 --> 01:38:53,000
Everyone develops
his own maturing method.
595
01:38:53,000 --> 01:38:57,600
Some clients ask me
for lean meat.
596
01:38:58,800 --> 01:39:02,120
I say, "I don't have any.
597
01:39:02,120 --> 01:39:05,440
We do the exact opposite!"
598
01:39:06,520 --> 01:39:12,000
José Gordon's Rubia Gallega
is the best meat in the world.
599
01:39:13,640 --> 01:39:17,560
I finally found this passion
and pleasure in France... in Corsica!
600
01:39:22,520 --> 01:39:25,680
Christian Orsucci,
my friend and the mayor,
601
01:39:25,680 --> 01:39:29,720
calls me every year
for the village festival.
602
01:39:29,720 --> 01:39:33,880
There's the church procession
and then the dinner.
603
01:39:34,520 --> 01:39:37,920
It's not a ball
as there's no dancing.
604
01:39:37,920 --> 01:39:44,360
We started the cooking
at 11:00 AM for a 9:00 PM dinner.
605
01:39:44,360 --> 01:39:46,480
It needs to be cooked for nearly 10 hours.
606
01:39:46,480 --> 01:39:51,800
We use wild olive trees, holm oaks
and strawberry trees.
607
01:39:51,800 --> 01:39:57,200
The wood needs to be cut
at least six months ahead.
608
01:39:57,200 --> 01:40:01,280
We use wood that was exposed
to the sun, facing south
609
01:40:01,280 --> 01:40:03,840
because it needs to be very dry.
610
01:40:03,840 --> 01:40:07,080
It doesn't smoke much
and generates lots of heat.
611
01:40:24,920 --> 01:40:27,200
Usually farmers here
know how to cut carcasses.
612
01:40:27,200 --> 01:40:31,720
In the mountains,
we learn how to do it.
613
01:40:39,640 --> 01:40:41,560
Delicious as always.
614
01:40:44,000 --> 01:40:47,320
Come on, Christelle, go to work.
615
01:40:50,120 --> 01:40:51,760
No close-ups, please.
616
01:40:53,840 --> 01:40:56,080
Don't forget to dunk
the meat in the sauce.
617
01:41:08,360 --> 01:41:10,440
How many animals
do you raise a year?
618
01:41:10,440 --> 01:41:15,720
I raise 160 animals each year
619
01:41:15,720 --> 01:41:19,760
and I cook 80 of them
on the spit like tonight.
620
01:41:19,760 --> 01:41:22,800
Where does the Tiger breed
come from?
621
01:41:22,800 --> 01:41:25,120
It's not the Corsican breed.
622
01:41:25,120 --> 01:41:27,160
It's one of the Corsican breeds.
623
01:41:27,160 --> 01:41:31,160
It's a very old breed.
624
01:41:31,160 --> 01:41:36,520
You find it here as there was little
cattle migration. It's also in Sardinia.
625
01:41:38,000 --> 01:41:42,200
I've registered
the Tiger cow brand
626
01:41:42,200 --> 01:41:45,160
so I stand out.
627
01:41:45,760 --> 01:41:51,280
Once a dairy farmer came
to see how I work.
628
01:41:51,280 --> 01:41:56,640
He kept saying life was difficult
due to rising soy prices.
629
01:41:56,640 --> 01:42:05,240
"You used to grow peas yourself
as additional protein for your cows.
630
01:42:05,880 --> 01:42:10,400
Now you're waiting for American soy.
You're insane!"
631
01:42:15,640 --> 01:42:18,080
I'm totally independent.
632
01:42:18,080 --> 01:42:20,800
I produce all the food
I need for my cattle.
633
01:42:20,800 --> 01:42:23,640
I sell my males
and females.
634
01:42:24,320 --> 01:42:27,320
Selling my meat is easy
because people know my products
635
01:42:27,320 --> 01:42:33,480
and I sell it to restaurants
thanks to my butcher shop.
636
01:42:33,480 --> 01:42:35,800
I don't sell to private individuals.
637
01:42:40,520 --> 01:42:45,640
This is a veal chop
from Mr. Jacques Abbatucci,
638
01:42:45,640 --> 01:42:49,400
flambéed with rosemary.
639
01:42:57,440 --> 01:42:59,720
The seasons make
my meat taste different.
640
01:42:59,720 --> 01:43:06,560
I don't say that my meat
has the same taste all year around.
641
01:43:06,560 --> 01:43:11,480
What the cattle eat changes,
nature changes around them,
642
01:43:11,480 --> 01:43:14,360
so the meat tastes different.
643
01:43:14,360 --> 01:43:19,280
For Christmas dinner,
I have animals who ate holm oak acorns.
644
01:43:19,280 --> 01:43:21,440
So the meat tastes like hazelnut.
645
01:43:21,440 --> 01:43:23,400
That's real common sense.
646
01:43:23,400 --> 01:43:26,720
People talk about it,
but only a few put it into practice.
647
01:43:27,080 --> 01:43:31,000
You should do what you can
with the land you have.
648
01:43:31,000 --> 01:43:34,200
Don't do things
you can't control.
649
01:43:34,200 --> 01:43:36,880
Otherwise you are
dependent on everyone
650
01:43:36,880 --> 01:43:38,840
and on the fluctuations
in international prices.
651
01:43:39,280 --> 01:43:44,400
In Corsica,
we have always cut tree branches
652
01:43:44,400 --> 01:43:48,040
and the animals were eating foliage from
wild olive trees, strawberry trees and oaks
653
01:43:48,040 --> 01:43:53,600
so that we could keep the animals
outside and feed them.
654
01:43:53,600 --> 01:43:56,480
Now when I increase my pasture
surface area on abandoned land,
655
01:43:56,480 --> 01:44:01,440
I use freshly cut scrubland
656
01:44:01,440 --> 01:44:05,840
as wood, food and fertilizer.
657
01:44:05,840 --> 01:44:08,640
And what's left,
I don't burn it.
658
01:44:08,640 --> 01:44:12,000
I wait for the carbon in the wood
to go in the soil.
659
01:44:13,040 --> 01:44:17,840
Burning it would put the carbon
back in the air. That's eco-citizenship.
660
01:44:17,840 --> 01:44:21,200
Everybody loves the concept
but nobody enforces it.
661
01:44:21,200 --> 01:44:26,200
The carbon goes
from plant to air to soil.
662
01:44:26,200 --> 01:44:32,480
This is a very healthy organization
and an exciting way of working.
663
01:44:36,480 --> 01:44:41,720
Today we only think about meat,
but I'm thinking about leather again.
664
01:44:41,720 --> 01:44:46,480
I'll show you our tanned skins
for making bags. It's great.
665
01:44:46,480 --> 01:44:49,480
It's also creating a local economy.
666
01:44:49,480 --> 01:44:52,920
It gives work
to local craftsmen.
667
01:44:52,920 --> 01:44:58,840
We need to restart
our development
668
01:44:58,840 --> 01:45:05,520
to take over from the industrial economy
or here in Corsica, from tourism.
669
01:45:05,520 --> 01:45:08,680
If we create a viable local business,
670
01:45:08,680 --> 01:45:11,440
we can preserve
our environment.
671
01:45:11,440 --> 01:45:14,080
The point is to have farms like this.
672
01:45:14,080 --> 01:45:18,440
My land faces the sea,
but I made a choice with this farm.
673
01:45:19,160 --> 01:45:26,280
I could sell it and have big cars and villas
instead of my cows.
674
01:45:26,280 --> 01:45:28,440
But I won't.
They're my values.
675
01:46:51,080 --> 01:46:52,480
Hats off!
51250
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