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Before I really dig into
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a set of images or a project.
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I'd like to review everything I've been
given by the photographer.
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And just, I like to make sure
everything's intacts,
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everything makes sense.
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All of the elements line up.
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I really just want to review my files
and see where I'm at.
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For the first image we're going to be
working on, we've got looks, like five
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or six exposures on black, whiskey
bottle, different types of light being
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cast on the bottle,
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pretty much every part of the bottle.
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I like having options.
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I like that the photographer's thinking
about
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all parts of the bottle.
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It's
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unfortunately, very difficult for them
to
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see the finished product.
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So as they're shooting,
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they're often doing different exposures,
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different reflections,
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and
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they hope that they've covered
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all parts of the product that they're
shooting.
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And my job as a retoucher
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is to
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put all these pieces together,
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check out what their intentions were
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and
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really
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understand
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their creative intent.
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All right, so let's take a look at
these notes.
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We're going to be checking sunpies on
black.
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The notes are
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short and sweet, and that's how I like
them.
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So for this set of images, we have
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series of exposures.
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Liquid right side left, side neck,
label and cap.
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I'm going to be talking about these
more when we get into Photoshop, but
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for now,
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just checking these out, wanting, make
sure that my three o eight is my base.
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It looks good.
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I've got
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side reflections,
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side reflections,
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more side reflections.
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Looks like this.
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One's probably going to be for the
label.
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Maybe this one is, too.
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I don't know.
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At this point.
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We're going to be starting with
processing, cropping
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a little bit of color,
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and,
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yeah, whatever else we kind of discover
along the way.
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All right, let's get processing.
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What I'm going to be doing is
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getting my images
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cropped, cleaned a little bit in terms
of color, lightness, exposure,
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maybe aligning it with what I've been
told in the notes.
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Although
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there's going to be a little bit of
back and forth as I process these out,
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get them layered and deposited in
Photoshop.
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And so I'm not going to worry too much
about making things perfect
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yet.
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I just want to put my normal settings
on the image,
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get things where I want them to be,
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spit them out of capture, get them in
the Photoshop, put it all together,
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check it out, and then we'll go from
there.
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So for
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this set of images
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right now, I'm just seeing a lot of
distractions around this bottle.
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I don't want to see what's going on.
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And I'm also seeing that the image
needs to be rotated, or just otherwise
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straightened out.
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what I'd like to do is
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throw a little bit of a crop on here,
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get rid of a few distractions so I can
see what I'm looking at.
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These images are all going to be masked
out.
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And so I'm not going to worry about the
overall canvas dimensions right now.
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I'm just going to worry about isolating
my subject, getting it straight,
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getting it pretty and getting it into
Photoshop.
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So I've got a crop on here.
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I'm going to go ahead and just see.
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I don't think for this one that I need
to do any of the keystone tools
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that can add a little bit of distortion
to the image.
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I'm going to just go to try a simple
rotation
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and see if I can get things
straightened up.
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Turn on my guides,
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get my edges lined up.
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I don't often use guides, so I don't
know if I have a keyboard shortcut for
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it.
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So we'll go to the old school way,
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just throw down
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some edges,
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maybe put this up here.
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Just to see
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if the rotation is also going to throw
off any of the horizontals.
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In which case I would go and apply
keystones instead.
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Just get
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this sing
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looking
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in like it's in the right spot.
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Not always easy to
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see with the grid on.
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I think I can turn that off.
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But then it turns the guides off.
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And that's not what I want.
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We're getting pretty close.
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You can use your arrow keys
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in the number dialogue box to just
gently
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dial it in.
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Am I going the right way?
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I'm not.
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It's bouncing all around.
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That looks
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about right to me.
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The horizontal
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seems like it also is straight.
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So I'm not going to need to use any
keystoning,
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get back out, turn off my guides.
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I'm happy with a crop.
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I don't think it needs to be
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much tighter.
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So we'll stick with that for now.
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Do you do?
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So?
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Now I'm going to play a little bit with
my color controls, my exposure,
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sharpening, noise reduction, all that
kind of good stuff.
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I've set up my panels for my workflow
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so that they just have the tools that I
need to get the job done.
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And
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first thing I do
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when I'm in capture is change my
sharpening default
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one.
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Isn't what you want.
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I could explain it.
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But for now
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i'll just let you know, point to is
where you want it.
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It produces a better granular structure.
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These images are relatively noise free.
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We don't worry about that too much.
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I think
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180 is going to be where I want it.
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And so what I want to do next is
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open up the dynamic range a little bit.
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If that doesn't
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sound like something you understand or
make sense to you, what I'm trying to
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do right now is to
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kind of push in the edges of my
histogram.
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I'm actually compressing the dynamic
range of the image so that when I get
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it into Photoshop, I have more room to
let the image breathe.
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I can push my blocks into the shadows a
little bit better.
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I can open up the highlights
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and really kind of sculpt the image.
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Whereas if
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I
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push the, push the image out to the
edges of the histogram and capture,
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I'm essentially
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closing off all the shadows, turning
them in the black,
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pushing my whites
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to be too bright.
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So what happens is, if I want to open
up those areas
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in Photoshop, I'm now limited by the
narrower dynamic range.
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That is going to be
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the result of
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that process instead of the process
that I'm about to show you.
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So got my image straight.
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I'm just going to open up my shadows a
little bit,
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increase the values so that I can
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have a little bit more room to play.
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Pull the highlights down.
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The exposure is dead on.
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I'm not going to play with it.
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Contrast, I don't
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think I want to adjust for this image.
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Contrast and capture does do
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beautiful things.
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It's different than your contrast.
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And Photoshop it's different than your
contrast.
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And light room tends to keep the
shadows a little bit more open.
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But my contrast is all going to be done
in Photoshop today.
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I'm not going to play with any levels.
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Everything's where I want to be.
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Curves are going to be in Photoshop.
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Don't want to add clarity,
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because clarity is going to produce
halos on the label.
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It does sharpen up the image
beautifully.
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Microcontrast,
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a joy,
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but we don't want to do that.
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Now.
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F, at the end of the image, I want to
add some high passing.
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I can do that there,
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but for now, I want to keep the image
as stable and under control as I
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possibly can.
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Pull that back down to zero
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sharpening.
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I know, based on my experience
hopefully on your experience too.
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That
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140 to 180s in a good spot.
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I can just do a quick test.
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See what's happening on my edges.
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I know it needs a little bit of
sharpening.
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Some people don't sharpen it all and
capture.
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I like to sharpen and capture, pre
sharpening, post sharpening, all that
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kind of good stuff.
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Let's just get this
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right where I want it.
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As you can see, we're
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going to have a little bit of cleaning
once we start working.
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Noise reduction,
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I leisurely like to leave my color
where it is.
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A lot of the imagery I work on, I take
it all the way out.
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I like grain.
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I like structure.
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This Sony camera is relatively noise
free.
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But I'm just going to go ahead and give
it a little bit of reduction.
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Don't need to be too specific.
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All right.
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So my base image is feeling good.
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And now I want to apply those settings
to all the other images.
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I may need to do additional adjustments
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to the other set, the other images in
the set, based on rob's notes for
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things like labels and highlights, that
sort of thing.
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So let's see what happens.
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Select your
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reference image, shift selects.
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You can do copy to paste.
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So we're going to copy everything,
paste it down.
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I find that I do these almost exact
settings to every single image I work on
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it's just,
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like, is an open dynamic range.
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Sharpening's good, noise directions,
good, gives me a base to work from.
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And once I've got the image started, I
can then tweak it as needed.
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But
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with these images they're really
straightforward.
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And I'm confident that
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a default
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setting will work well
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for all of this.
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So with the first
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image applied to everything else, just
going to take a quick look,
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if there are any surprises.
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If there aren't any surprises, I can
process these out and get started in Photoshop.
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This one looks like it's going to be
for my
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reflection, could be for the base.
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I seem to remember some notes about the
base needing different types of reflection.
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This is
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for the neck.
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It looks right.
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The highlights look a little hot, right
here.
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So that tells me that
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the way this image relates to the other
images, it probably needs to drop in
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the exposure
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just to touch.
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I can either do that now or after I
have it composited, and I can go back
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and forth and change the exposure.
259
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For now, I'm just going to pull it down
a little bit, so it feels closer to
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what everything else
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looks like.
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Looks like there may have been a little
movement in the bottle or the camera.
263
00:11:39,933 --> 00:11:41,768
We're not going to worry about that
right now.
264
00:11:43,770 --> 00:11:48,208
And yeah, I feel like these are all in
a good place, just to start roughing
265
00:11:48,408 --> 00:11:49,109
things together.
266
00:11:49,376 --> 00:11:52,479
So I am going to go over to my process
267
00:11:52,812 --> 00:11:53,279
tab,
268
00:11:54,514 --> 00:11:55,48
create a quick recipe
269
00:11:56,116 --> 00:11:57,283
for this project.
270
00:11:58,518 --> 00:11:59,986
After talking with Rob.
271
00:12:01,221 --> 00:12:04,958
The images are intended to go online,
but also for print.
272
00:12:05,291 --> 00:12:07,360
So I'm going to
273
00:12:08,595 --> 00:12:11,831
be working in Adobe rgb for a wider
gamut.
274
00:12:12,599 --> 00:12:13,933
I'd like to label these.
275
00:12:14,734 --> 00:12:17,604
What there are going to be Arg for
shorts
276
00:12:19,72 --> 00:12:20,6
and ape it.
277
00:12:21,608 --> 00:12:21,908
That's
278
00:12:23,343 --> 00:12:23,376
psdwgb.
279
00:12:25,879 --> 00:12:28,448
We're going to go and keep these at
three under dpi, even though there's
280
00:12:28,515 --> 00:12:29,783
going to be a web res 72.
281
00:12:30,583 --> 00:12:32,485
That's all going to be scripted out
later.
282
00:12:33,553 --> 00:12:35,455
They were to be go and save.
283
00:12:35,555 --> 00:12:36,256
That that's good.
284
00:12:36,756 --> 00:12:38,958
We'll be outputing to
285
00:12:39,693 --> 00:12:41,461
a set of folders, which I've already
created.
286
00:12:41,795 --> 00:12:42,896
You'll be outputing
287
00:12:43,463 --> 00:12:45,598
to whatever set of holders you've
created.
288
00:12:46,399 --> 00:12:46,866
And
289
00:12:48,101 --> 00:12:49,436
let's get these going
21355
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