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Now we're going to talk a little bit
about
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filters.
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And I know that in today's modern age
of digital post production, sometimes
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people forget about how wonderful
filters are, and how useful they are
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for certain things.
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And so I'm going to talk about
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the step up ring.
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I'm going to talk about the uv filter,
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the polarizer, or the circular
polarizer, the neutral density filter.
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And
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one of my favorites, something called
the black promised.
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And so these are kind of the filters
that I pull from on a relatively
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regular basis.
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And so I want to make you guys aware of
those.
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And you're going to see these in
practice later on.
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So the first one is the step upring.
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You also have there's something called
a step down ring.
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I don't actually use these because the
lenses that I use these on are the
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same, the same filter, same same size.
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But if you have a
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filter that's really big
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and you want to make it fit multiple
lenses, you can use something called a
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step up or a step down ring, so that
different mounts can fit on something
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larger.
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So you buy one, and then you buy step,
upper, step down rings.
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And it
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solves you from having to
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buy
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more filters.
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So you buy one filter that fits
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multiple rings.
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So it just gives you flexibility
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for that.
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The uv filter, or the ultraviolet
filter,
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is something that I think a lot of
people
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tell you right off the bat.
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When you're buying a new lens, you put
this on to protect it.
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I mean, it does make a
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small, tiny difference visually in the
image, but it's more about just
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protecting the lens than anything else.
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It's just a clear filter.
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I don't have that to show you.
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It, just
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a protection filter.
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Actually, something that people are
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talk about quite a bit, changes the way
uv light looks a little bit, makes it a
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little bit more,
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a little bit nicer to see.
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But
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that's not really
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what I want to focus on.
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When I talk about filters.
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I want to talk about stuff like this.
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This is the polarizer
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and the system that I use.
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You can obviously buy a zillion
different
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filters and stack them all on, but I
use a filter system because I think
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it's a little bit less cumbersome.
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The one that I use.
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This is by
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a wine country camera.
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It's this really nice filter.
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And it uses slide filters.
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So you can put multiple slides in it.
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And on the back is where it mounts to
the lens.
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And this is where my step up ring would
mount.
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But it's got a built in polarizer.
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And so what the polarizer does
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is it allows you to change.
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So I rotate it here, and it changes how
effective it is.
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But what it does
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is it removes reflections in glass, or
minimizes
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reflections in glass.
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And so you can kind of see, in the left
image versus the right, how it makes
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the glass look.
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Now I will say this.
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I actually prefer the left image
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because I think it adds more depth.
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I think the right looks like a painted
window, and I don't think it gives you
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a lot to look at.
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But a really good way to use a
polarizer filter
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is when you have, you're doing the
driving scene, and remember, they
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haven't the conversation through the
windshield of the car, but use a
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polarizer filter to cut down on those
reflections so you can see the people
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on the inside.
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So when you're shooting through glass,
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it gives you the ability to control
what the glass looks like.
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And so I use this on the second shoot
that you're going to see.
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I had
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glass on the tops of these planes, and
I'm able to control what the
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reflections look like coming through
that glass.
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In addition to that a polarizer filter
will also make skies appear more blue
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and give you a lot more density out of
the sky.
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So that's a really helpful way to use a
polarizer filter when you want to make
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the sky look a little bit nicer, and
maybe it's blown out a little bit, so
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it brings it back.
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So two different uses for the
polarizer.
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I'm either shooting through glass or
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making the skies a little bit darker.
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And what you want to do is variant
until you get the effect that you want.
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You can see it right as you look
through the frame.
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That's the beauty of this.
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Ok?
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Now we move to the neutral density
filter.
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And I love, I love, love, love, love,
love, love, love, love, love, love,
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love, love.
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The end filter,
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the Andy filter.
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I know that in the time of high speed
sync,
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that we're not need necessarily as
likely to remember that this is
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probably another way to do it.
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But
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with film, they're usually shooting at
a relatively slow shutterspeed 160th
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of a second, probably pretty commonly.
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And when you're shooting outside makes
everything really bright, especially if
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you want to shoot at a really low
aperture to give you that shallow depth
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of field.
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And so what an Nd filter allows you to
do is it put sunglasses on the lens,
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and it allows you to darken the image
down to give you a much shallower depth
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of field, if you choose to use it.
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Also, I don't have high speed sync on
the camera, and the system that I use,
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I max out at 1125th
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of a second.
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So this allows me to get that shallow
depth of field, but still overpower
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daylight, and give me what would look
like high speed sync, or really fast,
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like a leaf shutter.
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So it gives me that effect
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without actually,
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you know, having it.
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And so with this system in particular,
for example,
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like I basically take,
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I take the filter.
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This is a 1.5,
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so it looks like this
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slides in,
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and it's sunglasses over the lens.
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This is 1515,
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is going to be about three stops.
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You can also get ones that are variable.
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You can also get ones
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This is a six stop,
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and it's real dark.
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That's a six top.
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But I like this
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because
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it's just about what I want the
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outside to look like.
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I'm usually more likely to use a three
stop versus a versus a six, because the
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outside that's going to be really dark
at six.
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The other thing is, when you're using a
polarizer in conjunction with an end.
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It can add
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half to almost a full stop, extra
darkness on top of that.
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So know that that also gives you some
leniency.
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And then what I would do is, if I
wanted to make that background a little
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bit brighter, all I do is lower the
shutter speed.
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I'm not telling you do that.
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You control ambient when you're using
strobes with shutter speed, right?
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So that becomes a way that I can do
that.
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And that's me shooting at f.
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Eleven versus 28.
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And the shutter speed is the same.
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Obviously, I tweak
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the iso a little bit, but it gives you
that really beautiful cinematic look,
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some nice separation
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with the depth of field.
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And so that's just by adding in the
neutral density filter and changing exposure.
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This is the other example of that.
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This is the same thing.
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I went out in the other direction,
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and, you know, this is 28 versus 13.
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And then what I did was I varied the
shutterspeed a little bit to add it a
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little bit more light in the
background.
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Obviously doesn't have to be a true one
to one translation of, just let me turn
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the aperature down.
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You still have the ability to control
shutterspeed in iso, but it is giving
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me about a three stop difference.
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By the time all those calculations are
put into place,
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and the light on the face
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looks pretty much the same.
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And the background gives you that
really nice separation.
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I'm not seeing as much of the ugly
things in the back, as much the
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distractions.
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And it gives me a little bit more of
that cinematic look,
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endy filter.
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Great solution when working with
strobes outside.
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Now we get to one of my favorite things
that most photographers don't know
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about, and that's the black promis
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and the black promist.
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This is made by tiffin.
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They're relatively inexpensive.
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I mean, this is about seventy Bucks
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looks like this, just normal, right?
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But what the black promiss does
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is it's
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sort of kind of
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like a haze machine in a filter.
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And it's not really like that glamorous
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hazy filter.
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What it does tends to make highlights
bloom.
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But it does a better job
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at not making the rest of the image
have that effect.
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So you can kind of see, like his face
doesn't look soft, the rest of the
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image doesn't look soft,
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but the whole thing kind of has a
little bit of a hazy look to it.
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And so the light on the flashlight
glows a little bit, the lights on the
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ceiling glow a little bit, and it just
adds a whole lot more atmosphere instantly.
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00:08:51,931 --> 00:08:56,269
And this is especially helpful when you
are dealing with locations that don't
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let you run a haze machine.
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But you want that effect,
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right?
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So this becomes a way that you can get
some of those bloomy highlights, and it
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gives you a really, kind of cool,
cinematic look to the lights.
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And it glows without looking cheesy.
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It's really, really cool.
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Now, just to show you what this looks
like compared to the haze machine
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on the left hand side,
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this is the haze machine by itself.
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No black promised,
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and you can see the beam.
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That's what the haze machine machine
does is it gives you the beam,
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as opposed to just being aglow.
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The lights bloom a little bit.
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The beam looks,
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it looks good.
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00:09:35,308 --> 00:09:38,78
But when you add the black promist
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to the haze,
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it makes it look even better.
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And so I like the combination of the
two.
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During the theater shoot, I was using
the black promise in conjunction with
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the haze.
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00:09:48,888 --> 00:09:53,927
And also the black promis, just so, you
know, comes in a variety of different strengths.
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This
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shot here
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is the quarter it's a
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quarter.
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Black promes it's quarter half
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and full.
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It gets real heavy, real quick,
especially if you're combining it with
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an actual haze machine,
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as opposed to just doing it
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by itself.
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00:10:17,550 --> 00:10:21,955
So there's obviously a time and a place
to use something like this, or a
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heavier version of this.
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You're in a smoky nightclub, you're in
an environment that's meant to feel, if
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you're in the fog, like that, helps,
helps do it.
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00:10:30,730 --> 00:10:35,168
But if you're just in a room that just
needs to appear a little bit
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atmospheric and a little bit moody, it
works as an option, either by itself or
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in conjunction with
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00:10:41,241 --> 00:10:42,242
the haze in place.
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00:10:42,575 --> 00:10:46,746
And so I really like, this is kind of
where the shot ended, like, this is the
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culmination of all the stuff that we
built prior, and then adding in these
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few other small effects,
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like adding in the haze,
254
00:10:54,254 --> 00:10:55,789
adding in the black promise.
255
00:10:56,356 --> 00:11:00,260
And it really just takes what was
already a pretty successful image and
256
00:11:00,260 --> 00:11:03,663
just really bumps it up to that extra
cinematic
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00:11:04,264 --> 00:11:05,131
kind of degree.
20294
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