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LAND WITHOUT BREAD
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This cinematographic test of
human geography was rolled in 1932,
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just a short time after the
coming of the Spanish Republic.
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In opinion of the geographers and the travellers,
the region who are going to visit, called the Hurdes,
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00:00:38,350 --> 00:00:41,800
is a barren and inhospitable region,
in which the man is forced to fight,
hour to hour, by the subsistence.
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Until 1922, year in which the first highway
drew up, the Hurdes almost was not known
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for the rest of the world and
even for the inhabitants of Spain.
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Before arriving at the Hurdes,
we must pass by the Pond,
quite rich town,
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00:00:55,789 --> 00:00:59,458
of feudal character, that it has a
great influence on the life of the Hurdes,
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00:00:59,789 --> 00:01:03,098
where almost all the inhabitants
are tributary of this town.
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This is the church of the Pond.
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Two skulls in their niche seems to
preside over the destinies of this town.
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Generally, the houses has three floors.
Its architecture is little frequent
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in Spain and give to
the streets a medieval aspect.
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00:01:33,356 --> 00:01:37,200
Most of the houses has recorded on
their door a religious inscription:
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00:01:40,400 --> 00:01:44,004
"Ave Mar�a, conceived without sin"
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00:01:48,269 --> 00:01:51,598
On day of our arrival we see
the women dressed for a great ceremony.
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00:01:51,832 --> 00:01:54,890
We ask why they wear those pretty dresses.
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They reply that they must go to the Church square,
where they're going to celebrate
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00:01:58,743 --> 00:02:01,135
like every year, a strange and
Barbarian celebration.
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00:02:01,562 --> 00:02:04,348
Newly wedded men,
in front of gathered town,
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00:02:04,800 --> 00:02:07,238
each on of them must
take the head of a rooster.
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00:02:11,356 --> 00:02:13,580
Between two corners, a cord extends
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00:02:13,890 --> 00:02:16,398
of which hangs a rooster
tied by the legs.
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00:02:16,783 --> 00:02:20,439
Each of the riders, in gallop,
will have to take the head of a rooster.
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00:02:31,129 --> 00:02:34,700
After walking triumphantly with
the heads of the rooster through the squares
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00:02:34,987 --> 00:02:38,123
and the streets of town, the grooms
offer wine to everybody.
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00:02:50,300 --> 00:02:52,789
The escanciadores, along with the wine,
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00:02:52,998 --> 00:02:55,124
offer pleasures to thousands.
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00:03:02,880 --> 00:03:06,499
Among others, we see this
boy rich adorned with silver medals
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00:03:06,800 --> 00:03:10,125
Although they are Christian medals,
we cannot help thinking
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00:03:10,445 --> 00:03:13,299
the amulets come from savage
villages of Africa and Ocean�a.
33
00:03:22,450 --> 00:03:25,329
We left the Pond, where
at 7 pm
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almost everybody is already drunk.
35
00:03:28,990 --> 00:03:32,400
3 kilometers away, from one of the tops
of the mountainss that surround the town,
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00:03:32,732 --> 00:03:35,435
we discover the fifty two
towns that constitute the Hurdes,
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00:03:35,800 --> 00:03:39,230
with a total population of ten thousand inhabitants.
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through steep slopes, we crossed
the splendid valley of the Batuecas
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00:03:44,923 --> 00:03:47,789
inhibited by old monks, who live
with their servants.
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00:04:06,098 --> 00:04:10,021
This valley was inhabited for
four centuries by monks, the Carmelites,
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00:04:10,342 --> 00:04:14,121
who preached the Christian religion
in the most important towns of the Hurdes.
42
00:04:15,145 --> 00:04:17,698
The Batuecas has conserved vestiges
of intense prehistoric life.
43
00:04:17,987 --> 00:04:20,945
In the caverns the are crafty paintings
44
00:04:21,687 --> 00:04:24,010
representing men, goats and bees.
45
00:04:44,231 --> 00:04:46,121
Toads, snakes and lizards
46
00:04:46,543 --> 00:04:48,687
are the only present
inhabitants of these ruins.
47
00:05:04,123 --> 00:05:06,400
The vegetation is anundent,
48
00:05:06,654 --> 00:05:08,432
and more than 200 species
grow here freely.
49
00:05:08,782 --> 00:05:11,125
Nevertheless, five kilometres
from this valley
50
00:05:11,369 --> 00:05:14,800
no longer we will find trees.
Only some fruit trees, rockroses and brezos.
51
00:05:19,003 --> 00:05:22,121
The convent is surrounded by a wall
eight kilometres long
52
00:05:22,400 --> 00:05:24,345
that protects from the attacks
of wolves and wild boars.
53
00:05:24,654 --> 00:05:27,230
Inside the enclosure,
formed by the wall,
54
00:05:27,500 --> 00:05:31,121
the ruins of eighteen hermitages,
scattered here and there,
55
00:05:31,498 --> 00:05:34,187
indicated by one or several cypresses.
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00:05:48,328 --> 00:05:50,563
Behind these tops,
that still belong
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to the Batuecas, begin the Hurdes.
58
00:05:52,560 --> 00:05:55,831
After crossing them, we find the desert
of the Hurdes.
59
00:05:58,383 --> 00:06:02,200
This town is the Aceitunilla,
located in one of the poorest valleys.
60
00:06:02,648 --> 00:06:04,925
The white building is the school,
built recently.
61
00:06:07,124 --> 00:06:11,239
In the streets onthe slope of the mountain
we meet its daily life.
62
00:06:17,124 --> 00:06:22,123
Peculiar detail, in the towns of the Hurdes
we have never heard singing.
63
00:06:26,121 --> 00:06:29,124
Sometimes we can run,
in the middle of the town, a
64
00:06:29,345 --> 00:06:31,145
miserable brook that descends
from the mountains.
65
00:06:31,700 --> 00:06:34,123
In summer, there is not much
water in the town
66
00:06:34,345 --> 00:06:38,124
and the inhabitants use it,
in spite of the filthy dirt
in the channel.
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00:06:39,478 --> 00:06:41,510
There are weired scenes here.
68
00:06:40,560 --> 00:06:43,345
The river serves the whole town
69
00:07:17,129 --> 00:07:19,345
Three children eat a bread slice
dipped in water.
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00:07:19,568 --> 00:07:21,234
The bread, until recently,
was almost unknown in the Hurdes.
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00:07:21,456 --> 00:07:25,234
It seems that children's teacher,
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00:07:25,432 --> 00:07:28,321
makes the children eat in
his presence, fearing
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00:07:28,521 --> 00:07:31,345
that as soon as they arrive home,
theit parents will take it away.
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00:07:36,880 --> 00:07:38,666
They call the children to the school.
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00:07:45,234 --> 00:07:49,121
These ragged, barefoot children,
receive the same education
76
00:07:49,342 --> 00:07:53,123
as any other children anywhere in the world
who go to the primary school.
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00:07:52,880 --> 00:07:55,123
The clothes bring the hurdanos
that emigrate
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00:07:55,542 --> 00:07:59,002
for summer to territories
of Castile and Andalusia.
79
00:07:59,880 --> 00:08:02,333
They are dedicated mainly
to the mendicidad.
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00:08:02,666 --> 00:08:06,432
When they return to their land,
they distribute lots of clothes
in exchange for potatoes.
81
00:08:22,488 --> 00:08:25,735
They teach these hungry children,
like everywhere,
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00:08:25,994 --> 00:08:29,711
that the sum of the angles of a triangle
is equal to two right angles.
83
00:08:33,875 --> 00:08:37,222
In some towns of the Hurdes,
most of the children are "pilus".
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00:08:37,431 --> 00:08:40,123
The abandoned will be looked for
by the women of the Hurdes
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00:08:40,325 --> 00:08:43,234
from the public assistance
of Rodrigo City, located
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00:08:43,456 --> 00:08:46,121
away two days of march through the mountain.
87
00:08:47,669 --> 00:08:51,221
They are in charge of raising them
in exchange for a fifteen pesetas a month.
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00:08:51,545 --> 00:08:55,615
This miserable amount will let the whole family live
until the day,
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00:08:55,945 --> 00:09:00,434
not very distant, when the industry of "pilus"
is prohibited in the Hurdes.
90
00:09:05,668 --> 00:09:07,880
Unexpected and shocking picture
that we discovered in the school.
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00:09:08,124 --> 00:09:10,449
Who could make this
absurd engraving here?
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00:09:15,003 --> 00:09:18,346
We opened randomly a moral book
that we found in the school.
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00:09:18,569 --> 00:09:21,444
One of the best students
writes in the slate,
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00:09:21,762 --> 00:09:23,125
on our request ours,
one of the book's maxims.
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00:09:30,883 --> 00:09:34,121
The moral that is taught to
these small ones is the one that
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prevails our civilized world:
"Respect the other people's goods".
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00:09:47,109 --> 00:09:49,239
In this relatively rich valley,
there are some
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walnuts, cherry trees and olive trees.
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00:09:54,349 --> 00:09:55,889
This it is the town of Martilandr�n.
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00:09:56,011 --> 00:10:00,010
The crusts that see between the trees,
resambling the shell
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of a mythical animal, is nothing more
than the tile roofs of the town.
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00:10:07,889 --> 00:10:11,121
On the town entraning,
a choir of coughs welcomes us.
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Most of the inhabitants are sick.
104
00:10:16,789 --> 00:10:19,320
The scenes that appear to our sight
are of a devastating misery.
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00:10:28,008 --> 00:10:31,234
The goiter is the specific illness of the Hurdes High,
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that constitute the main object of this report.
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See this woman with its goiter:
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does not have more than thirty-two years.
109
00:10:52,884 --> 00:10:55,334 Visit the town accompanied by the mayor of Martilandr�n.
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In a deserted street we find a girl.
Do
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Ask al mayor what has.
112
00:11:00,723 --> 00:11:04,230
responds that since three days ago the girl is there without being moved.
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should be patient, therefore complains.
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00:11:06,400 --> 00:11:09,700
One of our friends, himself about to her
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to be reported of what hurts it in the throat.
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Asks It that open the mouth
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and we can see him the gums and the throat inflamed.
118
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Unfortunately we cannot do anything by her.
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Two days later we returned al town.
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Al to ask for her, they responded that it had died.
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Of what the inhabitants of this sterile land are fed?
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The only food that arrange, or almost,
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are the potatos and the beans, and not always;
124
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especially in the months of June and July,
125
00:11:42,700 --> 00:11:45,234
to this same base of its diet lacks them.
126
00:11:45,586 --> 00:11:49,129
Its diet c�rnica is composed only of hog.
127
00:11:49,335 --> 00:11:53,221
Only the rich families, if can be called them thus, possess a hog.
128
00:11:53,442 --> 00:11:56,433
Each year kill al hog: devour the meat in three days.
129
00:11:57,943 --> 00:12:00,421
In the most fertile places olives grow.
130
00:12:00,845 --> 00:12:03,608
often the fruits are devoured for the insects.
131
00:12:05,487 --> 00:12:08,972
The goat is the animal that better resists in these sterile spots.
132
00:12:09,398 --> 00:12:13,222
Its milk for the serious patients is reserved that wet in her the bread
133
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that the beggars bring of far away and that also is kept for the patients.
134
00:12:29,234 --> 00:12:32,668
Only meat of goat is consumed when some is killed,
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00:12:32,887 --> 00:12:36,002
thing that happens at times when the floor is abrupt and the steep paths.
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The main alimentary industry of The Hurdes is the apicultura.
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But the hives, in its majority, do not belong to the hurdanos.
138
00:12:48,999 --> 00:12:53,556
Besides, the honey that the bees extract of the flower of the brezo, is very
bitter.
139
00:12:53,889 --> 00:12:56,669
The owners of the hives are people of The Pool.
140
00:12:56,954 --> 00:13:00,002
Only leave the hives to the hurdanos during the winter,
141
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that here is smoother than in the neighboring province of Salamanca.
142
00:13:07,887 --> 00:13:10,222
In spring, transport the comenas to Castille.
143
00:13:10,446 --> 00:13:14,334
In this epoch, is normal to find one or various loaded animals with the hives
144
00:13:14,600 --> 00:13:17,002
and that are directed to Castille.
145
00:13:17,332 --> 00:13:20,004
A day, we find to this donkey, with its load of hives,
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that two hurdanos carry to Salamanca.
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a little later, while we eat tranquilly, someone asks aid.
148
00:13:28,335 --> 00:13:32,002
The hurdanos had tied al stupid. One of the hives had fallen
149
00:13:32,332 --> 00:13:34,222
and the animal had been attacked for the bees.
150
00:13:34,446 --> 00:13:37,456
The disorderly movements that caused to be defended they caused
151
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the fall of other hives
152
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and emjambres of bees precipitated on him.
153
00:13:44,699 --> 00:13:47,888
An hour later, was dead person. A month before our arrival,
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three men and eleven mulos had died in the same way.
155
00:13:57,003 --> 00:14:01,004
The months of May and June are the hardest since, in this epoca
156
00:14:01,349 --> 00:14:03,778
have exhausted its provisions of potatos.
157
00:14:04,003 --> 00:14:07,777
Then are fed of cherries, and as the hunger presses, do not leave that
158
00:14:07,998 --> 00:14:10,555
come they to mature and them are eaten green, which dysentery causes them.
159
00:14:12,001 --> 00:14:14,009
Is then when begin the migrations.
160
00:14:14,444 --> 00:14:17,999
The men to the ones that does not retain the illness and have been freed of
the fevers,
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go to Castille or to Extremadura, to try to work in it reaps.
162
00:14:24,888 --> 00:14:29,004
We find Ourselves with some of these caravans, of 10, 30, 50 men,
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provided only of a blanket.
164
00:14:32,399 --> 00:14:36,733
do Not have money neither bread and go very far away, on foot, to seek work.
165
00:14:41,777 --> 00:14:44,722
We cross Ourselves, several days later, with a group of those men
166
00:14:44,999 --> 00:14:48,555
that return as themselves they were, without money and without bread.
167
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Arrive now to one of the essential points of this report.
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What do the hurdanos to build the field that will permit them to eat?
169
00:15:09,555 --> 00:15:13,666
Begin for choosing a next land to the edge, later with the aid
170
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of its women, its parents and its friends,
171
00:15:16,355 --> 00:15:18,400
eliminate the vegetaci� habitual of rockroses and of brezos.
172
00:15:18,700 --> 00:15:21,789
The tools are always rudimentary: a peak and a pairs.
173
00:15:22,008 --> 00:15:24,987
do Not arrange of other instruments to work.
174
00:15:25,290 --> 00:15:28,600
The plow is stranger in the majority of the towns of The Hurdes.
175
00:15:31,999 --> 00:15:34,336
Once the land is cleared,
176
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raise walls of stones, put some on another, without mortero.
177
00:15:39,660 --> 00:15:42,003
This wall will protect al field of the winter floods.
178
00:15:44,798 --> 00:15:47,700
When the wall is built, have to be going to seek
179
00:15:47,944 --> 00:15:49,900
the vegetable land to the mountain.
180
00:15:50,200 --> 00:15:54,400
Fill bags that transport later through the zarzas to its field.
181
00:15:54,789 --> 00:15:57,456
This work occupies them generally during several weeks.
182
00:16:12,888 --> 00:16:16,004
See the thin vegetable layer of land that covers a field hurdano.
183
00:16:15,400 --> 00:16:19,333
The first year the crop is abundant, but later the land is exhausted,
184
00:16:19,666 --> 00:16:23,880
to lack of elmentos nitrogenados, and returns sterile.
185
00:16:29,787 --> 00:16:32,777
All the fields of The Hurdes have form of straits
186
00:16:32,999 --> 00:16:35,032
bands of land al edge of the river.
187
00:16:35,333 --> 00:16:39,345
often, them grown winter annihilate in uns instants the work of all a year.
188
00:16:43,789 --> 00:16:47,654
This is the characteristic meander of a course of water of The Hurdes
189
00:16:47,990 --> 00:16:49,001
with the small fields escalonados.
190
00:16:53,888 --> 00:16:56,235
TO lack of money and of animal servants
191
00:16:56,550 --> 00:16:58,234
the hurdano cannot obtain guarantee.
192
00:16:58,560 --> 00:17:02,222
Therefore has to go to the mountain to seek with what to do it,
193
00:17:02,555 --> 00:17:04,377
as the family that see here.
194
00:17:19,887 --> 00:17:21,888
The roads are difficult and the footwear is scarce.
195
00:17:29,772 --> 00:17:32,888
The most appreciated guarantee is the one that the hurdanos manufacture they
196
00:17:33,005 --> 00:17:37,238
with the dry leaves of the tassel, not a very abundant bush in these
mountains.
197
00:17:37,560 --> 00:17:42,999
When they arrive at a favorable place, they fill the bags with the precious leaves.
198
00:17:46,444 --> 00:17:49,444
But in these places the v�per is a very widespread animal.
199
00:17:49,700 --> 00:17:52,902
One of these peasants was stung by a viper some days ago
200
00:17:53,389 --> 00:17:54,802
when collected leaves of tassel.
201
00:17:55,200 --> 00:17:57,700
The mordedura is not almost never mortal by itself same.
202
00:17:57,999 --> 00:18:02,234
The hurdanos are the ones that, while they try to be cured, at times infect it
mortally.
203
00:18:15,887 --> 00:18:19,300
When they have finished collecting of leaves, the peasants return to the town
204
00:18:19,678 --> 00:18:22,778
and empty the content of the bags inside the houses.
205
00:18:25,889 --> 00:18:28,770
On these leaves animals and people sleep together.
206
00:18:28,999 --> 00:18:32,700
The leaves decompose slowly and, some months later,
207
00:18:33,002 --> 00:18:34,600
they will use them as a guarantee.
208
00:18:46,770 --> 00:18:48,400
This is the house of an inhabitant of Fracassant.
209
00:18:48,790 --> 00:18:51,900
Through the entrance you walk on a bed of leaves,
210
00:18:52,200 --> 00:18:54,802
that is always present in the houses of the hurdanos.
211
00:18:59,990 --> 00:19:02,004
Interior characteristics of a house.
212
00:19:02,300 --> 00:19:05,100
All the utensils are primitive and scarce.
213
00:19:18,990 --> 00:19:23,345
The smoke leaves where it is able. There are no chimneys or windows.
214
00:19:29,800 --> 00:19:32,800
In summer, the water runs almost dry and this fact
215
00:19:33,140 --> 00:19:36,821
is the origin of malaria, transmitted by the mosquito anofeles.
216
00:19:37,335 --> 00:19:39,969
is able to say that all the hurdanos are affected by malaria.
217
00:19:40,370 --> 00:19:42,589
This illness at present is fought by
218
00:19:42,921 --> 00:19:45,440
the doctors of the three "Factories" of The Hurdes.
219
00:19:45,743 --> 00:19:48,304
The larva has to rise to the surface of the water to breathe.
220
00:19:48,620 --> 00:19:51,702
If it stays parallel to the surface, it is a larva of anofeles.
221
00:19:51,990 --> 00:19:55,900
If is stays perpendicular, it is a larva of culex, an inoffensive mosquito.
222
00:19:56,400 --> 00:19:58,823
The adult anofeles is found in all the houses in the hurdes.
223
00:19:59,100 --> 00:20:02,300
it can be recognized because of its perpendicular pose on the wall.
224
00:20:09,689 --> 00:20:12,003
This is the result of a anofeles bite.
225
00:20:12,400 --> 00:20:15,700
A man attacked by the fever, seated near its house.
226
00:20:24,756 --> 00:20:27,604
You can find many patients on the streets.
227
00:20:35,367 --> 00:20:39,100
This patient put to bed on the balcony does not suspect our presence.
228
00:20:39,400 --> 00:20:41,880
Balconies are rare
229
00:20:42,100 --> 00:20:44,200
in the majority of the towns of The Hurdes.
230
00:20:49,690 --> 00:20:53,003
The dwarves and the cretins abound in The High Hurdes.
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Generally their families employ them to take care of the goats.
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Some are dangerous.
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OR well flee of the men, or well attack them to stonings.
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They are found in the mountain at the fall of the night,
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when return to the town.
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We had great difficulties in filming some of them.
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The realism of a Zurbar�n or of a Bank,
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remains under very similar reality.
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The degeneration of this race owes itself mainly to hunger,
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to the lack of hygiene, to the misery and to incesto.
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the lowest that see here is twenty-eight years old.
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Here is another type of old cretino.
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We could only film this thanks to the contribution
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of one of our friends of the hurdanos that knew to entertain its speaker.
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A day, we see a group of persons in front of the door of a house.
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A boy has just died.
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The mother.
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A death is one of the rare events that can roll himself in these miserable
towns.
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The women respond in mass to the funeral house.
250
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They have explained the complications in transporting a corpse,
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due to that, in many towns, there is not cemetery.
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They had to transport this boy to the cemetry of Nu�omoral,
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and we decide to continue the body.
254
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The corpse was placed in a trough
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and taken for many kilometres through the thickets.
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If the dead person is an adult,
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they tie the body to a stair and carry him thus to the cemetery.
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This sometimes requires hours of march.
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See the step of a river with the corpse.
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The cemetery shows that, in spite of the great misery of the hurdanos,
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its religious and moral ideas are the same as
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in any another part of the world.
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The court summons of the tombs is indicated by a cross
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or by a piece of wood.
265
00:24:12,698 --> 00:24:16,999
The uniquely luxurious things that we have found in The Hurdes are the churches.
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This is found in one of the most miserable towns.
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An interior of the most comfortable of the inhabitants.
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Here are the father, the son, the daughter-in-law and the two grandchildren.
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On the wall, the presence of this role trimmed and
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00:24:37,810 --> 00:24:40,800
the alignment of the covers detonate a certain sense of the decoration.
271
00:24:43,779 --> 00:24:46,880
In some towns, a woman travels through the streets at night.
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Is the pregonera of the death?
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Goes agitating a chime and at times stops for salmodiar a prayer.
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00:24:58,789 --> 00:25:02,400
All the inhabitants of a house hurdana live in an only room.
275
00:25:02,739 --> 00:25:05,800
This house is a little more comfortable.
276
00:25:06,132 --> 00:25:08,900
Is composed of a stable in the lower flat and,
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00:25:09,228 --> 00:25:12,100
in the first flat, of a kitchen and one room.
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00:25:12,432 --> 00:25:14,340
Surprisingly, there is a bed.
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00:25:28,672 --> 00:25:31,380
The hurdanos go to bed completely dressed in winter.
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00:25:31,650 --> 00:25:34,006
They wear the clothes until they fall in shreds.
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00:25:39,778 --> 00:25:41,999
This is what this woman says:
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00:25:42,220 --> 00:25:46,002
"Not to have swum that maintain better awake than thinking always in the
death.
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you Pray a Fowl Mar�a by the rest of the soul of. .."
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after being two months in The Hurdes, we leave the region.
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The misery that this movie comes to show us is not a hopeless misery. In
other regions of Spain,
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monta�eros, rural and working its conditions of life managed to improve being associated, being helped mutually,
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00:26:19,156 --> 00:26:25,560
being claimed near the Public Powers. This current that will carry the Town toward a better life,
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00:26:25,900 --> 00:26:31,460
will orient the last elections and will give place to the birth of a government of the Popular Front.
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00:26:31,900 --> 00:26:36,400
The rebellion of the generals helped by Hitler and Mussolini should
re-establish the privilege of the large owners,
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but Working and Rural of Spain they will conquer to Franco and their
accomplices. With the aid of the antifascist of all
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the world, the calm, the work, the happiness, they gave rise to the civil war
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00:26:46,002 --> 00:26:49,777
and they will make the miserable homes that this film has shown you disappear forever.
28229
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