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These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:10,900 --> 00:00:13,510 I'm being led somewhere I've never been before, 2 00:00:13,540 --> 00:00:16,990 so I'm completely in the hands of my guide. 3 00:00:17,020 --> 00:00:19,310 But I'm incredibly lucky, 4 00:00:19,340 --> 00:00:23,270 because I think what I'm about to see is miraculous, 5 00:00:23,300 --> 00:00:24,750 and certainly wonderful, 6 00:00:24,780 --> 00:00:27,790 because the village up ahead of me have been preparing 7 00:00:27,820 --> 00:00:30,590 a celebration for over a month, 8 00:00:30,620 --> 00:00:32,510 and if things go well, 9 00:00:32,540 --> 00:00:34,390 then I'm promised that I'll have 10 00:00:34,420 --> 00:00:38,390 the chance to experience the presence of a god. 11 00:00:45,460 --> 00:00:48,350 I'm exploring India's cultural treasures, 12 00:00:48,380 --> 00:00:50,790 guided by its leading experts... 13 00:00:50,820 --> 00:00:51,990 Hello. 14 00:00:52,020 --> 00:00:54,310 There is so much to discover here, 15 00:00:54,340 --> 00:00:55,870 as far as the horizon can see. 16 00:00:55,900 --> 00:00:59,510 ...revealing world-class historical riches, 17 00:00:59,540 --> 00:01:02,110 and game-changing human stories... 18 00:01:03,340 --> 00:01:06,110 ...a mountain railway that connects ancient and modern... 19 00:01:08,420 --> 00:01:09,990 ...unique, enduring wonders 20 00:01:10,020 --> 00:01:12,310 of medieval art and architecture... 21 00:01:12,340 --> 00:01:14,350 So you're at best on the history. 22 00:01:14,380 --> 00:01:16,670 That's an incredibly beautiful thing. 23 00:01:16,700 --> 00:01:20,710 ...and a 500-year-old abandoned city. 24 00:01:20,740 --> 00:01:23,310 This is the most extraordinary place. 25 00:01:26,300 --> 00:01:28,270 It would have been fantastic inside there, 26 00:01:28,300 --> 00:01:30,910 it would have been buzzing and thrumming with life. 27 00:01:32,180 --> 00:01:36,470 These are some of the greatest treasures of India. 28 00:01:47,940 --> 00:01:49,510 Southern India, 29 00:01:49,540 --> 00:01:54,670 with its extraordinary cultural and graphical diversity. 30 00:01:54,700 --> 00:01:58,510 Here landscapes have made history. 31 00:02:01,980 --> 00:02:05,030 I've been travelling to India for decades, 32 00:02:05,060 --> 00:02:07,390 on the trail of the inspirational ideas 33 00:02:07,420 --> 00:02:09,670 and the pioneering philosophies 34 00:02:09,700 --> 00:02:11,350 that emerge from the subcontinent. 35 00:02:11,380 --> 00:02:13,790 And now I'm here to try to explore 36 00:02:13,820 --> 00:02:16,990 how this incredible landscape around me 37 00:02:17,020 --> 00:02:21,830 has impacted on the culture of India through time, 38 00:02:21,860 --> 00:02:25,710 and also how that culture has impacted the wider world. 39 00:02:29,660 --> 00:02:33,310 Our first treasure is the lost city of Hampi 40 00:02:33,340 --> 00:02:35,830 in the heart of southern India. 41 00:02:42,740 --> 00:02:45,430 I've been told that at the top of this hill, 42 00:02:45,460 --> 00:02:48,310 1,700 feet above sea level, 43 00:02:48,340 --> 00:02:51,110 IS an awesome experience. 44 00:03:03,140 --> 00:03:06,230 Oh, it's just so majestic. 45 00:03:06,260 --> 00:03:08,790 So what you're looking at down there 46 00:03:08,820 --> 00:03:13,150 is one of the world's greatest abandoned cities. 47 00:03:13,180 --> 00:03:15,430 There are over 1,600 monuments 48 00:03:15,460 --> 00:03:17,710 spread out over 16 square miles, 49 00:03:17,740 --> 00:03:20,590 that's 40 square kilometres, 50 00:03:20,620 --> 00:03:23,830 and loads of it is still waiting to be explored. 51 00:03:27,460 --> 00:03:31,230 Hampi, named after Pampa, a local river goddess, 52 00:03:31,260 --> 00:03:33,790 was re-branded Vijayanagara, 53 00:03:33,820 --> 00:03:37,550 City of Victory, from 1336, 54 00:03:37,580 --> 00:03:40,790 the capital of a powerful new empire. 55 00:03:42,540 --> 00:03:45,470 Visitors have actually been coming here for centuries. 56 00:03:45,500 --> 00:03:50,270 There's a Portuguese horse trader called Domingo Paes, 57 00:03:50,300 --> 00:03:52,030 who climbed up this hill, 58 00:03:52,060 --> 00:03:54,390 but he said that even up here he couldn't see it all, 59 00:03:54,420 --> 00:03:57,950 because bits were hidden behind these ranges of hills. 60 00:03:57,980 --> 00:03:59,190 But despite that, 61 00:03:59,220 --> 00:04:03,190 he said it seemed to him to be as big as Rome, 62 00:04:03,220 --> 00:04:05,990 and a very beautiful site. 63 00:04:09,460 --> 00:04:11,190 By the 1500s, 64 00:04:11,220 --> 00:04:14,950 this was the second largest city in the world, 65 00:04:14,980 --> 00:04:17,230 but within a century 66 00:04:17,260 --> 00:04:19,510 it would be a deserted ruin, 67 00:04:19,540 --> 00:04:20,990 reclaimed by nature. 68 00:04:24,260 --> 00:04:27,430 I want to get to the bottom of its intriguing history. 69 00:04:33,340 --> 00:04:35,270 There's a man called Arjun Bhat, 70 00:04:35,300 --> 00:04:38,030 who's made this place his life's work, 71 00:04:38,060 --> 00:04:41,550 so I'm hoping he's going to decode it a bit for me. 72 00:04:47,060 --> 00:04:48,430 Hey. 73 00:04:49,500 --> 00:04:50,950 Nice to see you. 74 00:04:50,980 --> 00:04:52,910 It is my pleasure. 75 00:04:52,940 --> 00:04:55,510 Oh. Bettany. How lovely to meet you. 76 00:04:55,540 --> 00:04:56,870 My name is Arjun. 77 00:04:56,900 --> 00:05:00,750 This is the most extraordinary place. It's so huge. 78 00:05:00,780 --> 00:05:03,470 Yeah. There is stones everywhere, 79 00:05:03,500 --> 00:05:06,270 granite structures as far as your eyes can see. 80 00:05:06,300 --> 00:05:09,110 Yes. There is so much to discover here. 81 00:05:09,140 --> 00:05:11,390 Every day I get excited, 82 00:05:11,420 --> 00:05:13,390 like I'm listening to 83 00:05:13,420 --> 00:05:15,670 some new information for the very first time. 84 00:05:19,620 --> 00:05:21,990 This was once a culture at the cutting edge 85 00:05:22,020 --> 00:05:25,190 of urbanisation and new technology, 86 00:05:25,220 --> 00:05:26,910 with a diverse population 87 00:05:26,940 --> 00:05:30,510 of over 500,000 people, 88 00:05:30,540 --> 00:05:33,190 making the most of their natural environment. 89 00:05:33,220 --> 00:05:36,270 So, it's a very romantic place here. 90 00:05:36,300 --> 00:05:37,830 I imagine there must be 91 00:05:37,860 --> 00:05:41,230 a very practical reason why they built the city here. 92 00:05:41,260 --> 00:05:43,070 Yeah, for sure. If you look around, 93 00:05:43,100 --> 00:05:47,470 these boulder hills provided a natural line of defence. 94 00:05:47,500 --> 00:05:49,750 And the river itself, you know, 95 00:05:49,780 --> 00:05:51,430 also difficult to cross. 96 00:05:51,460 --> 00:05:54,190 But the river provided for resources to bring 97 00:05:54,220 --> 00:05:56,950 a grand city and sustain a large population. 98 00:05:59,660 --> 00:06:01,910 Its sophisticated water supply, 99 00:06:01,940 --> 00:06:03,590 from dams and aqueducts, 100 00:06:03,620 --> 00:06:05,910 to stepwells and running water, 101 00:06:05,940 --> 00:06:09,150 made Vijayanagara an envy of the world. 102 00:06:09,180 --> 00:06:11,430 It's Abd-al-Razzaq isn't it, 103 00:06:11,460 --> 00:06:13,030 that Persian scholar who writes 104 00:06:13,060 --> 00:06:15,350 so beautifully about this place in the 1400s, 105 00:06:15,380 --> 00:06:16,790 and you can tell he's just 106 00:06:16,820 --> 00:06:18,830 completely blown away by what he finds. 107 00:06:18,860 --> 00:06:21,630 Yeah, he must have walked into a paradise. 108 00:06:21,660 --> 00:06:25,430 We are in a semi-arid dry desert, 109 00:06:25,460 --> 00:06:28,270 and it's been transformed through irrigation, 110 00:06:28,300 --> 00:06:30,590 and that's why, you know, 111 00:06:30,620 --> 00:06:32,470 a city has flourished here in this spot. 112 00:06:35,700 --> 00:06:37,750 Arjun leads me to a hidden corner, 113 00:06:37,780 --> 00:06:41,190 overlooked by hills that are home to sloth bears and leopards, 114 00:06:41,220 --> 00:06:43,790 to give me a sense of the scale of this place. 115 00:06:46,060 --> 00:06:47,590 So, this is a marketplace 116 00:06:47,620 --> 00:06:49,910 that is almost a kilometre long. 117 00:06:49,940 --> 00:06:52,710 And each of these would have been a shop, 118 00:06:52,740 --> 00:06:55,190 so imagine the population that they are catering to. 119 00:06:55,220 --> 00:06:56,790 And there are seven of these 120 00:06:56,820 --> 00:06:58,510 within the city of Vijayanagara. 121 00:06:58,540 --> 00:07:00,470 This is just one. 122 00:07:00,500 --> 00:07:03,710 Do you hear a lot of the things that were traded here still? 123 00:07:03,740 --> 00:07:05,990 Yeah, brocades from China. Yes. 124 00:07:06,020 --> 00:07:07,710 Spices from the Malabar Coast. Yes. 125 00:07:07,740 --> 00:07:10,030 Horses from the port of Hormuz. Yes. 126 00:07:10,060 --> 00:07:12,870 Yeah. There's one account that says that it's really difficult 127 00:07:12,900 --> 00:07:14,150 to get through the streets, 128 00:07:14,180 --> 00:07:17,070 because there are so many people, and so many elephants, 129 00:07:17,100 --> 00:07:19,750 you know, herds of elephants here, 130 00:07:19,780 --> 00:07:23,030 in this absolute throng of a kind of international crowd. 131 00:07:26,420 --> 00:07:29,830 So, who exactly were the people of Vijayanagara? 132 00:07:31,660 --> 00:07:34,110 700 years ago the Hindu rulers of Hampi 133 00:07:34,140 --> 00:07:37,270 extended their kingdom over most of southern India, 134 00:07:37,300 --> 00:07:41,870 combining military might with the patronage of scholars, 135 00:07:41,900 --> 00:07:43,830 poets and artists, 136 00:07:43,860 --> 00:07:47,710 and they did nothing by halves. 137 00:07:53,100 --> 00:07:55,630 That's unbelievably impressive. 138 00:07:57,660 --> 00:08:01,510 This Ganesha is carved just out of one granite boulder. 139 00:08:01,540 --> 00:08:05,870 Yeah, this is the largest monolith of Ganesha. 140 00:08:07,580 --> 00:08:09,910 When you come to India you're struck by the fact that 141 00:08:09,940 --> 00:08:11,870 the gods and goddesses, and spirits and demigods, 142 00:08:11,900 --> 00:08:14,590 a lot of them are half human, half animal. 143 00:08:14,620 --> 00:08:17,910 Does that tell you something about the psyche of belief here? 144 00:08:17,940 --> 00:08:21,030 Yeah. There is divinity in every possible form. 145 00:08:21,060 --> 00:08:24,470 We are all part of the one consciousness, or one nature, yeah. 146 00:08:24,500 --> 00:08:27,670 Why has Ganesha been put right at the entrance to the city here? 147 00:08:27,700 --> 00:08:30,950 So, he's considered as the ruler of obstacles, 148 00:08:30,980 --> 00:08:34,310 so you'll often see Ganesha at entrances of homes. 149 00:08:34,340 --> 00:08:37,470 In this case you're right in the entrance of Hampi. 150 00:08:37,500 --> 00:08:39,790 The first deity you see is Ganesha. 151 00:08:39,820 --> 00:08:42,190 So, there's definitely a message there, isn't it? 152 00:08:42,220 --> 00:08:44,750 It's kind of saying, this is a city where anything is possible. 153 00:08:44,780 --> 00:08:46,230 Yeah, everyone's welcome, 154 00:08:46,260 --> 00:08:48,870 and all things are made possible here. 155 00:08:54,300 --> 00:08:58,630 Inside the 15th-century Vijaya Vitthala Temple complex, 156 00:08:58,660 --> 00:09:00,910 on the northern fringes of the city, 157 00:09:00,940 --> 00:09:02,630 the chariot-shaped shrine 158 00:09:02,660 --> 00:09:04,510 of the demigod Garuda, 159 00:09:04,540 --> 00:09:07,030 finely carved from pure granite, 160 00:09:07,060 --> 00:09:09,590 is a symbol of Hampi's sophistication. 161 00:09:11,020 --> 00:09:15,830 And nearby sculptures offer a vital clue to the kingdom's success. 162 00:09:19,580 --> 00:09:22,350 This is a kind of divine wedding hall, 163 00:09:22,380 --> 00:09:26,750 and it's protected by all these warlords dressed in different dress. 164 00:09:26,780 --> 00:09:29,350 And the fantastic thing is, it shows you just how multicultural, 165 00:09:29,380 --> 00:09:31,910 how multi-international the influences were here. 166 00:09:33,100 --> 00:09:35,510 So, these are locals, and we know they're locals, 167 00:09:35,540 --> 00:09:36,910 cos they've got a man bun, 168 00:09:36,940 --> 00:09:39,350 and they have got fantastic Tamil jewellery on 169 00:09:39,380 --> 00:09:40,950 the bracelets round their arms. 170 00:09:40,980 --> 00:09:43,030 And then here, 171 00:09:43,060 --> 00:09:47,550 he's dressed as a Muslim Turkic warlord, 172 00:09:47,580 --> 00:09:49,190 with that fantastic turban 173 00:09:49,220 --> 00:09:51,790 and the curved, kind of scimitar sword. 174 00:09:58,780 --> 00:10:03,590 Vijayanagara's true eclectic identity is becoming clear, 175 00:10:03,620 --> 00:10:08,070 and then Arjun tips me off about another place to explore, 176 00:10:08,100 --> 00:10:11,030 tucked away in a banana grove, 177 00:10:11,060 --> 00:10:14,710 a tomb to one of Hampi's great generals, 178 00:10:14,740 --> 00:10:16,710 with Islamic features, 179 00:10:16,740 --> 00:10:19,030 like pointed arches, 180 00:10:19,060 --> 00:10:22,390 flanked by something even more revealing. 181 00:10:25,260 --> 00:10:28,590 Now, this looks like a really typical Hindu temple, 182 00:10:28,620 --> 00:10:31,070 but have a look at this. 183 00:10:31,100 --> 00:10:33,590 So, this is a prayer niche, 184 00:10:33,620 --> 00:10:35,990 and it's facing Mecca, 185 00:10:36,020 --> 00:10:39,310 so because we're here in India it's facing west, 186 00:10:39,340 --> 00:10:42,150 and that tells you that the building I'm standing in 187 00:10:42,180 --> 00:10:44,230 is a Mosque. 188 00:10:44,260 --> 00:10:47,750 So, what we're getting is this really detailed, 189 00:10:47,780 --> 00:10:50,910 intriguing picture of a kingdom that's attracting 190 00:10:50,940 --> 00:10:54,590 and harnessing talent and influence 191 00:10:54,620 --> 00:10:58,110 and ideas from right across the subcontinent. 192 00:11:02,900 --> 00:11:07,790 But these cosmopolitan glory days were destined to end. 193 00:11:07,820 --> 00:11:11,830 In 1565, after centuries of turmoil, 194 00:11:11,860 --> 00:11:14,150 Vijayanagara finally succumbed 195 00:11:14,180 --> 00:11:19,030 to a coalition of neighbouring powers invading from the north. 196 00:11:20,340 --> 00:11:24,230 We're told that the atrocities were many and ferocious, 197 00:11:24,260 --> 00:11:27,910 and huge areas of the city were burnt to the ground. 198 00:11:27,940 --> 00:11:30,830 Eventually, when the kingdom fell, 199 00:11:30,860 --> 00:11:34,710 the looting here carried on for six months. 200 00:11:40,500 --> 00:11:42,390 The empire never recovered. 201 00:11:43,460 --> 00:11:46,870 Southern India was torn apart by warring dynasties. 202 00:11:48,540 --> 00:11:52,990 Unity wouldn't be restored for another 400 years. 203 00:11:55,860 --> 00:11:58,390 This was a culture who knew how to work with 204 00:11:58,420 --> 00:12:00,390 the resources of nature, 205 00:12:00,420 --> 00:12:02,350 and also how important it was 206 00:12:02,380 --> 00:12:04,990 to invite in new people across their borders 207 00:12:05,020 --> 00:12:06,310 and boundaries. 208 00:12:06,340 --> 00:12:10,270 It's a reminder of the power and value of harmony. 209 00:12:10,300 --> 00:12:12,750 Harmony's a really interesting word, 210 00:12:12,780 --> 00:12:15,070 because if you look at it in a number of languages, 211 00:12:15,100 --> 00:12:17,390 in Latin and in the kind of 212 00:12:17,420 --> 00:12:19,870 base tongue of many Indian languages, 213 00:12:19,900 --> 00:12:21,470 it's not a soft word, 214 00:12:21,500 --> 00:12:24,790 it's something really active about fitting and fixing, 215 00:12:24,820 --> 00:12:26,830 and mixing together, 216 00:12:26,860 --> 00:12:30,230 and it tells us that we're actually at our strongest, 217 00:12:30,260 --> 00:12:31,870 at our most harmonious, 218 00:12:31,900 --> 00:12:34,510 when we're allowed not to be just the same, 219 00:12:34,540 --> 00:12:37,310 but all to be different. 220 00:12:52,820 --> 00:12:55,790 I've travelled to Thanjavur in Tamil Nadu... 221 00:12:55,820 --> 00:12:56,990 HORN TOOTS LOUDLY 222 00:12:57,020 --> 00:12:59,510 ...360 miles south-east of Hampi. 223 00:12:59,540 --> 00:13:01,870 From the 9th to the 13th century, 224 00:13:01,900 --> 00:13:05,030 this was the centre of one of the subcontinent's 225 00:13:05,060 --> 00:13:07,070 greatest ever empires, 226 00:13:07,100 --> 00:13:09,590 ruled by the Chola Dynasty. 227 00:13:10,740 --> 00:13:14,230 Our next treasure is the exceptional art 228 00:13:14,260 --> 00:13:16,630 and architecture they left behind. 229 00:13:19,900 --> 00:13:22,430 I'm making my way somewhere that was built to be 230 00:13:22,460 --> 00:13:25,630 an incarnation of the centre of the world, 231 00:13:25,660 --> 00:13:27,950 a kind of axis of all the earth, 232 00:13:27,980 --> 00:13:30,310 So you can expect it to be pretty imposing. 233 00:13:39,540 --> 00:13:43,270 This entire temple is made of granite, 234 00:13:43,300 --> 00:13:46,270 so it's just extraordinary the detail 235 00:13:46,300 --> 00:13:48,630 that they've managed to coax out of the stone, 236 00:13:48,660 --> 00:13:52,950 and what you've got to think is that this is a thousand years old. 237 00:13:57,420 --> 00:13:59,750 This temple, the Brihadeeswara, 238 00:13:59,780 --> 00:14:01,390 or Great Shiva, 239 00:14:01,420 --> 00:14:06,790 broke all records when it was completed in 1010 CE. 240 00:14:06,820 --> 00:14:09,550 It's vimana, this central tower, 241 00:14:09,580 --> 00:14:12,390 was the tallest structure in India, 242 00:14:12,420 --> 00:14:14,710 and one of the tallest in the world. 243 00:14:14,740 --> 00:14:18,270 We're told that a four-mile-long ramp was built 244 00:14:18,300 --> 00:14:21,270 to raise this 80-tonne capstone. 245 00:14:22,900 --> 00:14:25,390 Worship's continued in this spectacular treasure 246 00:14:25,420 --> 00:14:27,670 for over a millennium. 247 00:14:27,700 --> 00:14:30,110 CONCH SHELL BLOWS 248 00:14:30,140 --> 00:14:33,710 And I find myself here on an auspicious day, 249 00:14:33,740 --> 00:14:36,030 celebrating the fertility of the land. 250 00:14:39,820 --> 00:14:42,630 So I'm made to feel especially welcome. 251 00:14:42,660 --> 00:14:45,510 Hello, lovely to see you. 252 00:14:45,540 --> 00:14:47,830 My name's Bettany. What's your name? 253 00:14:47,860 --> 00:14:50,190 Sathi. Andali. Sathi and Andali. 254 00:14:50,220 --> 00:14:51,710 So, what do you do today? 255 00:14:51,740 --> 00:14:54,710 THEY ALL CHAT AT ONCE 256 00:14:56,700 --> 00:14:58,550 So, what these lovely ladies have told me, 257 00:14:58,580 --> 00:15:00,310 they've come on a special festival day 258 00:15:00,340 --> 00:15:02,670 and these lovely red necklaces are a sign 259 00:15:02,700 --> 00:15:04,270 that they've come here to the temple, 260 00:15:04,300 --> 00:15:06,630 and they're going to go away with better luck. 261 00:15:06,660 --> 00:15:09,150 Everybody's got them, they're beautiful, they're beautiful. 262 00:15:09,180 --> 00:15:11,510 It's so lovely to meet you. GIRLS: Thank you. 263 00:15:11,540 --> 00:15:13,910 Thank you so much. GIRLS: Bye. 264 00:15:18,860 --> 00:15:23,230 About 10,000 pilgrims make their way here every day, 265 00:15:23,260 --> 00:15:25,950 30,000 during festivals. 266 00:15:27,500 --> 00:15:31,310 The builder of the ambitious complex left clues on the walls 267 00:15:31,340 --> 00:15:34,910 in ancient Sanskrit and Middle Tamil. 268 00:15:34,940 --> 00:15:37,270 Thousands of lines 269 00:15:37,300 --> 00:15:39,750 dating from the temple's foundation. 270 00:15:41,900 --> 00:15:44,990 Doctor Bavani, a lifelong champion of Thanjavur, 271 00:15:45,020 --> 00:15:47,910 and one of India's leading inscription experts, 272 00:15:47,940 --> 00:15:50,470 has offered to help me interpret the evidence. 273 00:15:50,500 --> 00:15:52,070 What does it say? 274 00:15:52,100 --> 00:15:55,310 SHE SPEAKS SANSKRIT 275 00:15:55,340 --> 00:15:59,070 And live, she decodes the Sanskrit messages. 276 00:16:02,740 --> 00:16:04,430 Ah, like a lion, 277 00:16:04,460 --> 00:16:06,070 so he was like the king of the jungle? 278 00:16:06,100 --> 00:16:07,550 Oh, yes, yes. 279 00:16:07,580 --> 00:16:08,710 Amazing. 280 00:16:18,180 --> 00:16:20,710 This is not a shy man, so he's saying he's so proud, 281 00:16:20,740 --> 00:16:22,070 or he's so successful, 282 00:16:22,100 --> 00:16:24,830 that he's conquered huge areas in other people's territories 283 00:16:24,860 --> 00:16:27,190 and he's going to wear their crowns 284 00:16:27,220 --> 00:16:29,510 like a garland around his neck. 285 00:16:29,540 --> 00:16:32,150 You get the sense he's quite proud of what he did. 286 00:16:37,220 --> 00:16:38,710 The whole complex, 287 00:16:38,740 --> 00:16:42,470 built to emulate Lord Shiva's mountain home in the Himalayas, 288 00:16:42,500 --> 00:16:44,750 is tribute to its founder, 289 00:16:44,780 --> 00:16:46,630 Rajaraja Chola I, 290 00:16:46,660 --> 00:16:49,830 whose name means King of Kings. 291 00:16:51,260 --> 00:16:53,590 The greatest ruler of the Chola dynasty, 292 00:16:53,620 --> 00:16:57,230 Rajaraja was the first to unite peninsular Southern India, 293 00:16:57,260 --> 00:17:00,070 and to conquer an overseas empire, 294 00:17:00,100 --> 00:17:02,590 extending Chola power and influence 295 00:17:02,620 --> 00:17:04,470 into what's now Sri Lanka 296 00:17:04,500 --> 00:17:05,870 and Southeast Asia. 297 00:17:07,340 --> 00:17:10,670 The natural resources of his vast domain were employed in 298 00:17:10,700 --> 00:17:12,550 the temple's construction, 299 00:17:12,580 --> 00:17:15,310 and recorded on its walls. 300 00:17:18,060 --> 00:17:20,390 So, all of this describes the kind of entertainers 301 00:17:20,420 --> 00:17:21,910 and performers who were here, 302 00:17:21,940 --> 00:17:25,630 so there were sacred parasol holders, 303 00:17:25,660 --> 00:17:28,830 and musicians and drummers, 304 00:17:28,860 --> 00:17:31,150 and we're told that 400 dancing girls 305 00:17:31,180 --> 00:17:33,190 were brought in from another temple. 306 00:17:33,220 --> 00:17:35,550 And then there's a detail I just adore, 307 00:17:35,580 --> 00:17:40,070 so there were 40 female conch shell musicians, 308 00:17:40,100 --> 00:17:42,990 and there are still women blowing conch shells 309 00:17:43,020 --> 00:17:44,270 here in the temple today, 310 00:17:44,300 --> 00:17:47,350 so it's just this kind of direct line of continuity. 311 00:17:47,380 --> 00:17:49,710 It just makes you begin to appreciate 312 00:17:49,740 --> 00:17:53,670 how it just would have been fantastic inside there. 313 00:17:53,700 --> 00:17:56,630 It would have been just buzzing and thrumming 314 00:17:56,660 --> 00:17:58,870 and humming with life. 315 00:18:03,220 --> 00:18:07,550 The temple's huge logistical supply chain is also set out, 316 00:18:07,580 --> 00:18:10,990 including the 54,000 bananas a year 317 00:18:11,020 --> 00:18:14,310 offered to the elephant-headed god Ganesha. 318 00:18:15,660 --> 00:18:18,950 This was a seriously wealthy empire. 319 00:18:18,980 --> 00:18:23,310 This writing here describes pearls that were laced on strings 320 00:18:23,340 --> 00:18:24,710 of pure gold. 321 00:18:24,740 --> 00:18:26,710 "Pum" is the word for gold. 322 00:18:26,740 --> 00:18:30,430 And we also know that the kings taxed their empire, 323 00:18:30,460 --> 00:18:33,030 so there was an enormous tax on the trade of copper 324 00:18:33,060 --> 00:18:34,230 and tin and gold, 325 00:18:34,260 --> 00:18:35,710 from places as far afield as 326 00:18:35,740 --> 00:18:37,550 the Caliphate in Baghdad, 327 00:18:37,580 --> 00:18:39,270 and even China. 328 00:18:42,300 --> 00:18:44,710 Hi, OK? Thank you. 329 00:18:44,740 --> 00:18:47,270 Two of these metals, copper and tin, 330 00:18:47,300 --> 00:18:51,670 were responsible for firing a pinnacle of Chola culture, 331 00:18:51,700 --> 00:18:55,590 iconic sculptures known as Chola bronzes. 332 00:18:58,300 --> 00:19:01,990 Swamimalai, an hour's drive from Thanjavur, 333 00:19:02,020 --> 00:19:05,550 has been producing Chola-style bronzes for centuries, 334 00:19:05,580 --> 00:19:09,390 thanks to alluvial soil from the Kaveri river bed, 335 00:19:09,420 --> 00:19:12,990 an essential ingredient in the bronze casting process. 336 00:19:14,900 --> 00:19:16,350 The original icons, 337 00:19:16,380 --> 00:19:18,790 which once adorned the Chola temples, 338 00:19:18,820 --> 00:19:22,390 can now sell for millions of dollars. 339 00:19:22,420 --> 00:19:25,270 The trail to their living equivalent has led me 340 00:19:25,300 --> 00:19:27,910 to the Stapathy family workshop, 341 00:19:27,940 --> 00:19:30,230 where each wonder is created 342 00:19:30,260 --> 00:19:34,150 as a living, divine one-off. 343 00:19:40,540 --> 00:19:43,950 Do you know how long your family has been making these bronzes, 344 00:19:43,980 --> 00:19:45,350 how many generations back? 345 00:20:02,700 --> 00:20:04,550 So you're a vessel of history, 346 00:20:04,580 --> 00:20:06,830 that's an incredibly beautiful thing. 347 00:20:11,300 --> 00:20:12,910 The three brothers who work here 348 00:20:12,940 --> 00:20:16,630 use the ancient lost wax technique. 349 00:20:16,660 --> 00:20:19,590 They sculpt the model out of wax, 350 00:20:19,620 --> 00:20:22,550 and then encase it in that alluvial river clay 351 00:20:22,580 --> 00:20:24,270 before heating it. 352 00:20:26,540 --> 00:20:28,470 The wax then melts away, 353 00:20:28,500 --> 00:20:31,430 replaced by molten bronze. 354 00:20:34,260 --> 00:20:36,270 That is why we use the phrase, 355 00:20:36,300 --> 00:20:37,790 "breaking the mould" 356 00:20:37,820 --> 00:20:39,790 because by the time he's broken this 357 00:20:39,820 --> 00:20:42,710 there will be a unique statue that will appear, 358 00:20:42,740 --> 00:20:45,030 and there will be no other one in the future 359 00:20:45,060 --> 00:20:46,590 that is exactly the same. 360 00:20:46,620 --> 00:20:49,990 So, I'm witnessing the breaking of the mould. 361 00:20:53,940 --> 00:20:56,790 Once a statue is completed as a work of art, 362 00:20:56,820 --> 00:20:58,590 there's one final step. 363 00:20:59,900 --> 00:21:01,870 The Prana Pratishtha, 364 00:21:01,900 --> 00:21:04,830 a ritual in which the deity is invited 365 00:21:04,860 --> 00:21:08,190 to take up residence within the sculpture. 366 00:21:10,020 --> 00:21:12,430 It's a transcendental moment 367 00:21:12,460 --> 00:21:14,710 when the statue's eyes are 368 00:21:14,740 --> 00:21:16,350 symbolically opened... 369 00:21:19,580 --> 00:21:21,830 ...its five senses awakened... 370 00:21:24,780 --> 00:21:28,470 ...and the object becomes a living icon. 371 00:21:32,540 --> 00:21:34,790 It's just so incredible to see, 372 00:21:34,820 --> 00:21:36,790 because I know about the statues 373 00:21:36,820 --> 00:21:39,150 from the ancient world that are treated like this, 374 00:21:39,180 --> 00:21:41,510 and they have garlands of flowers put on them, 375 00:21:41,540 --> 00:21:44,270 and so it's incredible to witness this. 376 00:21:44,300 --> 00:21:46,790 Thank you so much for letting me see this. 377 00:21:56,300 --> 00:21:58,790 Chola culture is a fascinating, 378 00:21:58,820 --> 00:22:02,190 captivating treasure of south India, 379 00:22:02,220 --> 00:22:04,470 because it shows how prosperity, 380 00:22:04,500 --> 00:22:06,150 how worldly wealth 381 00:22:06,180 --> 00:22:07,950 and the gifts of nature, 382 00:22:07,980 --> 00:22:11,750 can be used to create art that acts as a gateway 383 00:22:11,780 --> 00:22:14,750 to experience the divine. 384 00:22:14,780 --> 00:22:17,950 And also now, in the 21st century, 385 00:22:17,980 --> 00:22:22,310 it gives us a window onto a rich, sensuous, 386 00:22:22,340 --> 00:22:25,150 confident, celebratory, 387 00:22:25,180 --> 00:22:26,830 medieval world. 388 00:22:44,140 --> 00:22:47,590 It's early morning, and I've come to Mettupalayam, 389 00:22:47,620 --> 00:22:49,870 a small station in Tamil Nadu, 390 00:22:49,900 --> 00:22:52,470 150 miles from Thanjavur. 391 00:22:56,060 --> 00:22:58,510 I'm on my way to our next treasure, 392 00:22:58,540 --> 00:23:01,110 the landscapes and culture 393 00:23:01,140 --> 00:23:03,510 of the Nilgiri Mountains. 394 00:23:06,100 --> 00:23:10,110 Travelling by train is basically my happy place, 395 00:23:10,140 --> 00:23:12,790 so if you combine train travel 396 00:23:12,820 --> 00:23:15,710 with heritage then I am in heaven. 397 00:23:15,740 --> 00:23:18,910 But it's an interesting issue here of course, 398 00:23:18,940 --> 00:23:22,990 because a lot of the trains were built by colonial powers, 399 00:23:23,020 --> 00:23:26,790 so I'm just about to meet somebody who's taking me to 400 00:23:26,820 --> 00:23:29,310 an extraordinary heritage train, 401 00:23:29,340 --> 00:23:31,790 and it'll be really interesting to find out whether, 402 00:23:31,820 --> 00:23:34,150 yeah, whether he thinks it's more than just 403 00:23:34,180 --> 00:23:37,510 a bit of colonial culture and architecture. 404 00:23:38,900 --> 00:23:41,670 Hi, are you Mukund? Yes. How lovely to meet you. 405 00:23:41,700 --> 00:23:43,390 Nice to put a face to the name. 406 00:23:43,420 --> 00:23:45,430 It is, it is. And this must be it. 407 00:23:45,460 --> 00:23:47,110 This is our train. Amazing. 408 00:23:50,260 --> 00:23:52,510 The Mettupalayam, the steam train, 409 00:23:52,540 --> 00:23:54,070 winds up through the Nilgiri, 410 00:23:54,100 --> 00:23:56,350 part of the Western Ghats range, 411 00:23:56,380 --> 00:23:59,030 separating Tamil Nadu from Kerala, 412 00:23:59,060 --> 00:24:01,790 up to the town of Ooty. 413 00:24:03,340 --> 00:24:06,110 It's Asia's steepest rail line, 414 00:24:06,140 --> 00:24:10,910 and, I'm promised, one of its most enchanting sights. 415 00:24:12,540 --> 00:24:14,990 What's your connection to the train? 416 00:24:15,020 --> 00:24:19,350 Well, I went to boarding school in Ooty where I spent nine years, 417 00:24:19,380 --> 00:24:21,710 and we watched it climb up and down, 418 00:24:21,740 --> 00:24:23,990 you know, under this fog of smoke. 419 00:24:24,020 --> 00:24:25,790 So it was very much 420 00:24:25,820 --> 00:24:29,710 a part of our heritage and my childhood. 421 00:24:31,660 --> 00:24:34,470 I have to ask you this, though, because this is a train, 422 00:24:34,500 --> 00:24:36,510 it was a railway that was built by the British, 423 00:24:36,540 --> 00:24:40,230 and the railways were built to extract resources from India, 424 00:24:40,260 --> 00:24:43,350 and to obviously to kind of move that governing class around. 425 00:24:43,380 --> 00:24:45,670 So, is it OK to enjoy it? 426 00:24:45,700 --> 00:24:49,230 Yes, I think that's true generally of the railways 427 00:24:49,260 --> 00:24:50,830 that the British built, 428 00:24:50,860 --> 00:24:53,710 but I still think, by and large, 429 00:24:53,740 --> 00:24:55,550 this is an outlier. 430 00:24:55,580 --> 00:24:57,510 It was built for leisure, 431 00:24:57,540 --> 00:25:00,350 it was built for cutting time down. 432 00:25:00,380 --> 00:25:03,870 I don't think there are too many days when it's not full. 433 00:25:03,900 --> 00:25:05,590 People like the ride up. 434 00:25:05,620 --> 00:25:07,470 TRAIN HORN TOOTS 435 00:25:10,660 --> 00:25:12,950 First dreamt up in 1854, 436 00:25:12,980 --> 00:25:16,710 this line didn't fully open until 1908, 437 00:25:16,740 --> 00:25:18,990 but by the time it was completed 438 00:25:19,020 --> 00:25:21,510 it was a pioneering marvel, 439 00:25:21,540 --> 00:25:23,790 boasting 16 tunnels 440 00:25:23,820 --> 00:25:26,630 and 250 bridges. 441 00:25:30,060 --> 00:25:33,030 I do get the sense though, for you, it's not just 442 00:25:33,060 --> 00:25:36,910 the kind of engineering magnificence of this that you love, 443 00:25:36,940 --> 00:25:38,510 it's something else? 444 00:25:38,540 --> 00:25:40,390 Why is it so special to you? 445 00:25:40,420 --> 00:25:42,150 I mean, it's special for a lot of reasons. 446 00:25:42,180 --> 00:25:43,990 It's the only metre-gauge track in India. 447 00:25:44,020 --> 00:25:45,550 It's the steepest. 448 00:25:45,580 --> 00:25:47,910 It's the only rack railway, for instance. 449 00:25:47,940 --> 00:25:50,470 But to me, apart from all of this, 450 00:25:50,500 --> 00:25:54,470 it's uniqueness is the fact that it is so slow. 451 00:25:54,500 --> 00:25:56,910 You know, it's the closest thing to taking a walk 452 00:25:56,940 --> 00:25:58,870 in the woods while you're sitting down. 453 00:25:58,900 --> 00:26:01,230 And you know, it's really interesting because 454 00:26:01,260 --> 00:26:03,910 neuroscientists say that we love travelling by train, 455 00:26:03,940 --> 00:26:07,190 because we can travel and think at the same time, 456 00:26:07,220 --> 00:26:09,070 so maybe it's a train of ideas this. 457 00:26:09,100 --> 00:26:12,190 Absolutely, and there's a certain intimacy to the journey. 458 00:26:12,220 --> 00:26:14,230 I mean, just look outside. 459 00:26:14,260 --> 00:26:17,510 It's just, you know, trees almost at arms' length. 460 00:26:17,540 --> 00:26:19,270 It's just beautiful. 461 00:26:22,300 --> 00:26:24,870 And we're stopping. Now we're stopping. 462 00:26:29,220 --> 00:26:31,550 The train makes several stops on the journey 463 00:26:31,580 --> 00:26:34,790 at stations with names like Runnymede, 464 00:26:34,820 --> 00:26:37,190 Hillgrove, Lovedale, 465 00:26:37,220 --> 00:26:40,870 where even the local monkeys know the timetable. 466 00:26:42,380 --> 00:26:44,230 That's my lunch. 467 00:26:46,500 --> 00:26:48,150 So we're going to go up. 468 00:26:48,180 --> 00:26:51,150 Fantastic. I think I blagged my way up at the front. 469 00:26:51,180 --> 00:26:52,550 GUARD'S WHISTLE BLOWS 470 00:26:57,940 --> 00:27:00,630 So, this is basically an incredibly important man. 471 00:27:00,660 --> 00:27:01,830 He's the brake man, 472 00:27:01,860 --> 00:27:04,390 because the locomotive's at the back. 473 00:27:04,420 --> 00:27:07,230 So he's the eyes and ears of the train. 474 00:27:07,260 --> 00:27:08,830 Elephant. Elephant. 475 00:27:08,860 --> 00:27:10,310 Ah-ha. 476 00:27:10,340 --> 00:27:13,150 Just here. Oh, there's elephant poo! 477 00:27:13,180 --> 00:27:15,030 There's elephant poo! 478 00:27:15,060 --> 00:27:16,750 THEY LAUGH 479 00:27:17,940 --> 00:27:19,590 Look, can I show the...? 480 00:27:20,820 --> 00:27:22,790 Elephants on the line. 481 00:27:26,620 --> 00:27:28,470 And it's not just elephants. 482 00:27:28,500 --> 00:27:32,550 These hills are part of India's first ever biosphere reserve, 483 00:27:32,580 --> 00:27:35,590 home to dozens of species of protected animals - 484 00:27:35,620 --> 00:27:38,590 even tigers - and endemic plants, 485 00:27:38,620 --> 00:27:41,190 as well as some interlopers. 486 00:27:43,500 --> 00:27:46,590 So, you're starting to see this new kind of 487 00:27:46,620 --> 00:27:48,150 plant on the hillside. 488 00:27:48,180 --> 00:27:49,550 Is that tea? 489 00:27:49,580 --> 00:27:52,110 And there are kind of mixed feelings about it here, 490 00:27:52,140 --> 00:27:55,950 because obviously it brings a huge amount of economy to the area. 491 00:27:55,980 --> 00:27:57,950 But it is an alien species. 492 00:27:57,980 --> 00:27:59,990 You know, it was originally brought from China, 493 00:28:00,020 --> 00:28:03,310 so there's a kind of love-hate relationship with the tea, 494 00:28:03,340 --> 00:28:05,190 and, of course, with the fact that 495 00:28:05,220 --> 00:28:08,430 the tea plantations were imperial projects. 496 00:28:11,340 --> 00:28:16,150 Udhagamandalam, known affectionately here as Ooty, 497 00:28:16,180 --> 00:28:18,390 is the line's final destination. 498 00:28:19,460 --> 00:28:22,950 A hill station developed in the 19th century 499 00:28:22,980 --> 00:28:26,510 to escape the heat of the Indian summer. 500 00:28:26,540 --> 00:28:28,030 TRAIN HORN TOOTS 501 00:28:33,460 --> 00:28:35,030 Thank you. Thank you. 502 00:28:35,060 --> 00:28:36,670 Happy memories, yeah? 503 00:28:36,700 --> 00:28:38,910 Yes, it feels like coming back home. 504 00:28:42,100 --> 00:28:44,790 Ooty is now a popular destination for travellers 505 00:28:44,820 --> 00:28:47,230 and honeymooners from across India, 506 00:28:47,260 --> 00:28:48,990 drawn to the climate, 507 00:28:49,020 --> 00:28:52,550 the scenery and heritage of the Nilgiri, 508 00:28:52,580 --> 00:28:55,990 a heritage which stretches right back. 509 00:28:59,300 --> 00:29:02,430 There's evidence from caves in these mountains that there's been 510 00:29:02,460 --> 00:29:05,470 habitation here since the Neolithic, 511 00:29:05,500 --> 00:29:08,070 and actually early Buddhist communities came 512 00:29:08,100 --> 00:29:11,950 to these slopes in either the 4th or the 3rd century BCE, 513 00:29:11,980 --> 00:29:14,630 and started the practice of adoring, 514 00:29:14,660 --> 00:29:17,710 of kind of worshipping some of these wonderful trees. 515 00:29:17,740 --> 00:29:23,350 But there's also a centuries-old community that's still here. 516 00:29:25,260 --> 00:29:27,270 These forests and grasslands 517 00:29:27,300 --> 00:29:30,470 are the ancestral home of the Toda people, 518 00:29:30,500 --> 00:29:34,510 who traditionally live alongside wild and domestic buffalo 519 00:29:34,540 --> 00:29:36,870 in their hamlets called rounds. 520 00:29:40,180 --> 00:29:42,470 I'm privileged to have been invited to meet 521 00:29:42,500 --> 00:29:44,070 a group of Toda women, 522 00:29:44,100 --> 00:29:46,670 the torchbearers of their society's culture, 523 00:29:46,700 --> 00:29:49,430 at their home just outside Ooty. 524 00:29:50,460 --> 00:29:52,030 How are you? Good day, how are you? 525 00:29:52,060 --> 00:29:53,550 My name's Bettany. 526 00:29:53,580 --> 00:29:57,950 I'm partly welcome because, like them, I'm a lifelong vegetarian, 527 00:29:57,980 --> 00:30:01,630 and I'm immediately envious of their fabulous hairstyles, 528 00:30:01,660 --> 00:30:04,830 twisted, I'm told, with buffalo buttermilk. 529 00:30:06,180 --> 00:30:07,470 The arrival of the train 530 00:30:07,500 --> 00:30:09,310 and the development of the hill station 531 00:30:09,340 --> 00:30:12,270 up-ended the Todas' world, 532 00:30:12,300 --> 00:30:14,830 but interestingly they preserved 533 00:30:14,860 --> 00:30:18,350 an upbeat heirloom that documents that collision. 534 00:30:36,380 --> 00:30:38,350 SINGING 535 00:30:56,260 --> 00:30:59,310 Beautiful, you can hear the rhythm of the train. 536 00:30:59,340 --> 00:31:00,710 Yeah. Yeah. 537 00:31:00,740 --> 00:31:02,510 It sounds very positive, 538 00:31:02,540 --> 00:31:05,910 because the train changed this place. 539 00:31:05,940 --> 00:31:09,510 It brought new people, it brought different ways of life. 540 00:31:09,540 --> 00:31:12,230 But do you still think the train is a good thing? 541 00:31:31,900 --> 00:31:35,230 It feels as though everything that you're putting into the poetry 542 00:31:35,260 --> 00:31:39,030 and into your songs is about how completely a part 543 00:31:39,060 --> 00:31:42,470 of the natural world of the mountains that you are. 544 00:32:01,500 --> 00:32:03,750 Ah, thank you. Shall I take my shoes off? 545 00:32:04,700 --> 00:32:06,350 Thank you. 546 00:32:06,380 --> 00:32:10,750 It's inspiring to find that spirit living on in the next generation. 547 00:32:10,780 --> 00:32:12,630 Yeah, lovely, thank you. 548 00:32:13,980 --> 00:32:16,590 Lovely to meet you, I'm Bettany. What's your name? 549 00:32:16,620 --> 00:32:20,110 Ah, OK. Amazing to hear those songs. 550 00:32:20,140 --> 00:32:22,390 Does your generation sing those as well? 551 00:32:27,020 --> 00:32:29,870 Yeah, but do you think it's something that can carry on in 552 00:32:29,900 --> 00:32:32,630 the future in India, this way of life? 553 00:32:50,140 --> 00:32:53,190 THEY SING 554 00:33:02,220 --> 00:33:06,190 The Nilgiri Mountains are a wonder of India, 555 00:33:06,220 --> 00:33:10,590 not just because of all this extraordinary biodiversity, 556 00:33:10,620 --> 00:33:13,910 and the engineering innovations that they've inspired, 557 00:33:13,940 --> 00:33:18,270 but there does seem to be a kind of positive spirit here, 558 00:33:18,300 --> 00:33:20,590 so everyone I've met and spoken to 559 00:33:20,620 --> 00:33:23,350 is determined not just to live life, 560 00:33:23,380 --> 00:33:25,270 but to respect it 561 00:33:25,300 --> 00:33:28,190 and to love the living of it. 562 00:33:42,700 --> 00:33:45,590 Our final treasure is the ancient culture 563 00:33:45,620 --> 00:33:47,990 of the Malabar Coast and Kerala, 564 00:33:48,020 --> 00:33:50,590 in the country's tropical south-west. 565 00:33:52,260 --> 00:33:54,750 Every year between October and May, 566 00:33:54,780 --> 00:33:59,630 the sacred groves, temples and ancestral homes of north Malabar 567 00:33:59,660 --> 00:34:04,190 play host to extraordinary events. 568 00:34:06,860 --> 00:34:08,350 I've been invited here 569 00:34:08,380 --> 00:34:11,870 to witness something incredibly special, 570 00:34:11,900 --> 00:34:14,590 something that's completely unique to this part of Kerala. 571 00:34:14,620 --> 00:34:17,190 It's not just a performance, 572 00:34:17,220 --> 00:34:19,550 it's a devotional dance 573 00:34:19,580 --> 00:34:22,790 that some anthropologists think have origins 574 00:34:22,820 --> 00:34:25,070 right the way back in the Neolithic, 575 00:34:25,100 --> 00:34:26,230 in the Stone Age. 576 00:34:27,620 --> 00:34:30,630 I've just got to find my friend who's told me to come here. 577 00:34:30,660 --> 00:34:33,670 Reshma, Reshma, Reshma, hello! 578 00:34:33,700 --> 00:34:35,630 Hello. How lovely to see you. 579 00:34:35,660 --> 00:34:39,550 How are you? How was your trip here? Oh, it was good, it was good. Hi. 580 00:34:44,660 --> 00:34:49,030 Reshma has brought me here to experience a Theyyattam, 581 00:34:49,060 --> 00:34:52,510 a ceremony that stretches back to pre-history, 582 00:34:52,540 --> 00:34:54,790 combining potent, ancient traditions 583 00:34:54,820 --> 00:34:56,590 and matriarchal rites, 584 00:34:56,620 --> 00:34:58,910 with contemporary Hinduism. 585 00:35:00,700 --> 00:35:04,190 "They ya" means god in the local language here. 586 00:35:04,220 --> 00:35:08,590 It's the same as our words like Theo, like theology 587 00:35:08,620 --> 00:35:10,910 and atheistic, so it's the same root. 588 00:35:10,940 --> 00:35:12,750 And "attam" means a dance, 589 00:35:12,780 --> 00:35:15,550 so this is a god dance. 590 00:35:15,580 --> 00:35:18,230 DRUMS BEAT 591 00:35:26,260 --> 00:35:29,110 Thanks to Reshma I get to meet one of the dancers 592 00:35:29,140 --> 00:35:32,190 and his guru as he prepares for his journey 593 00:35:32,220 --> 00:35:34,790 from the natural to the supernatural. 594 00:35:36,860 --> 00:35:39,190 So, thank you for letting us come here. 595 00:35:39,220 --> 00:35:41,510 Why is he being made up? What's happening to him? 596 00:35:45,820 --> 00:35:48,070 HE SPEAKS IN LOCAL LANGUAGE 597 00:35:54,580 --> 00:35:57,110 So, after the make-up, when he looks into the mirror 598 00:35:57,140 --> 00:35:59,710 he's seeing God, he's not seeing himself, 599 00:35:59,740 --> 00:36:04,110 and so he feels within his conscious that he's God. 600 00:36:04,140 --> 00:36:07,790 So, what does it feel like when you become a god? 601 00:36:07,820 --> 00:36:10,310 RESHMA TRANSLATES 602 00:36:10,340 --> 00:36:12,270 HE SPEAKS LOCAL LANGUAGE 603 00:36:17,580 --> 00:36:20,790 When he becomes the deity he gets into a trance, 604 00:36:20,820 --> 00:36:23,470 and he doesn't feel like a human being at all, 605 00:36:23,500 --> 00:36:25,230 and then he walks on the fire. 606 00:36:25,260 --> 00:36:26,990 If it's burning him he doesn't feel it, 607 00:36:27,020 --> 00:36:29,590 because he's not there any more, he's not in his body. 608 00:36:29,620 --> 00:36:30,670 Gosh. 609 00:36:32,140 --> 00:36:35,390 So, if they've been happening since before recorded time, 610 00:36:35,420 --> 00:36:38,030 do you think they're going to carry on into the future as well? 611 00:36:38,060 --> 00:36:40,670 RESHMA TRANSLATES 612 00:36:45,460 --> 00:36:47,870 He says, "As long as the world exists." 613 00:36:55,260 --> 00:36:58,950 These dancers aren't playing the role of gods, 614 00:36:58,980 --> 00:37:01,750 they'll be physically inhabited, 615 00:37:01,780 --> 00:37:04,910 possessed by the deities themselves. 616 00:37:13,660 --> 00:37:17,950 In this case a much-loved local goddess. 617 00:37:19,260 --> 00:37:21,590 DRUMBEAT INTENSIFIES 618 00:37:29,220 --> 00:37:32,070 The drummers are unbelievable. 619 00:37:32,100 --> 00:37:34,470 Yeah, the drummers also get into a trance. 620 00:37:34,500 --> 00:37:37,710 Music is supposed to heal people. Yes. 621 00:37:37,740 --> 00:37:40,030 You can feel it, can't you? Yes. 622 00:37:40,060 --> 00:37:41,950 Your heart just goes bump, bump, bump. Definitely. 623 00:37:53,940 --> 00:37:56,630 The ceremony goes on all night, 624 00:37:56,660 --> 00:38:00,630 a staggering feat of endurance for the spectators, 625 00:38:00,660 --> 00:38:03,190 let alone the musicians and dancers. 626 00:38:17,540 --> 00:38:19,750 PEOPLE SCREAM 627 00:38:22,460 --> 00:38:24,750 And when it's finally over, 628 00:38:24,780 --> 00:38:28,670 the entire community is brought together before the goddess, 629 00:38:28,700 --> 00:38:32,230 who sometimes speaks through the body of the dancer. 630 00:38:32,260 --> 00:38:33,750 HE INCANTS 631 00:38:50,420 --> 00:38:52,670 Are you happy? I'm very happy, I'm very happy. 632 00:38:59,740 --> 00:39:02,630 I wasn't expecting a blessing, what a lovely thing. 633 00:39:02,660 --> 00:39:04,270 It's an overwhelming experience. 634 00:39:04,300 --> 00:39:07,870 Reshma, thank you so much for bringing me here. It was fantastic. 635 00:39:07,900 --> 00:39:11,630 An incredible thing to experience this, because it's like the sort of 636 00:39:11,660 --> 00:39:14,950 boundaries between past and present have completely dissolved 637 00:39:14,980 --> 00:39:18,270 the boundaries between the human and the divine. 638 00:39:30,540 --> 00:39:33,870 After the thrill of the night I'm back on the road, 639 00:39:33,900 --> 00:39:37,670 exploring another fragment of living history, 640 00:39:37,700 --> 00:39:39,470 which, like the Theyyattam, 641 00:39:39,500 --> 00:39:43,270 has roots reaching back to the Stone Age. 642 00:39:43,300 --> 00:39:47,030 {\i1}So, I'm traveling into Kerala's backwaters,{\i0} 643 00:39:47,060 --> 00:39:49,910 560 miles of lagoons, 644 00:39:49,940 --> 00:39:52,230 lakes, rivers and canals, 645 00:39:52,260 --> 00:39:55,190 which have long drawn traders from around the world. 646 00:39:58,180 --> 00:40:02,030 The most precious commodity traded here was spices, 647 00:40:02,060 --> 00:40:06,870 and we know that that trade stretches back over 5,000 years. 648 00:40:12,180 --> 00:40:15,470 Now, our evidence are tablets from Sumeria 649 00:40:15,500 --> 00:40:18,870 in the Middle East that date back to 3000 BCE, 650 00:40:18,900 --> 00:40:22,350 and they describe Kerala as the garden of spices, 651 00:40:22,380 --> 00:40:24,670 and those spices would be transported 652 00:40:24,700 --> 00:40:26,710 on boats pretty much like this. 653 00:40:26,740 --> 00:40:29,990 Hi, is it OK to come on? Thank you. Thank you. 654 00:40:34,140 --> 00:40:36,190 These are Kettuvallams, 655 00:40:36,220 --> 00:40:39,790 literally tied boats made from bamboo 656 00:40:39,820 --> 00:40:42,110 and planks of jackwood tied together 657 00:40:42,140 --> 00:40:43,950 with coconut fibre ropes 658 00:40:43,980 --> 00:40:48,310 and painted in pitch produced from boiling cashew nut shells. 659 00:40:48,340 --> 00:40:50,150 They're unique to Kerala. 660 00:40:52,580 --> 00:40:54,870 I've always wanted to come because 661 00:40:54,900 --> 00:40:58,510 there's this sort of fabled port called Muziris, 662 00:40:58,540 --> 00:41:00,950 which crops up in the Roman sources, 663 00:41:00,980 --> 00:41:03,790 and the author, Pliny The Elder, writes about it, 664 00:41:03,820 --> 00:41:06,670 and he says it was the "Emporium of India." 665 00:41:06,700 --> 00:41:09,230 And we never really knew exactly where it was, 666 00:41:09,260 --> 00:41:11,670 but recently they discovered Roman coins 667 00:41:11,700 --> 00:41:14,670 and Roman jewellery, and amphorae here, 668 00:41:14,700 --> 00:41:17,550 so we know that the Romans were here. 669 00:41:17,580 --> 00:41:19,110 And it gets even better, 670 00:41:19,140 --> 00:41:22,510 because we actually hear about the Romans from Tamil sources, 671 00:41:22,540 --> 00:41:26,910 so they describe them arriving in large, beautiful boats, 672 00:41:26,940 --> 00:41:30,950 packed with gold and cool, fragrant wine, 673 00:41:30,980 --> 00:41:33,510 which they traded for pepper. 674 00:41:37,700 --> 00:41:40,190 Waves of visitors and settlers have shaped 675 00:41:40,220 --> 00:41:44,150 and fed into Kerala's vital mix of cultures and faiths, 676 00:41:44,180 --> 00:41:46,710 and to its amazing cuisine. 677 00:41:47,860 --> 00:41:50,670 So these are just some of the spices, I mean, we're familiar with these, 678 00:41:50,700 --> 00:41:56,350 so cardamom and clove and pepper, which was described as black gold. 679 00:41:56,380 --> 00:41:59,790 And the brilliant thing about spices is their name, 680 00:41:59,820 --> 00:42:04,230 so it comes from the Latin species, which meant something 681 00:42:04,260 --> 00:42:07,190 that was traded that was of particular value. 682 00:42:07,220 --> 00:42:10,870 So, spices are literally special. 683 00:42:14,660 --> 00:42:19,150 The ship's cook, Rahul, uses some of Malabar's aromatic treasures 684 00:42:19,180 --> 00:42:21,510 to whip up a quick lunch for the team. 685 00:42:25,500 --> 00:42:29,190 While Tanya Abraham comes to share her expertise 686 00:42:29,220 --> 00:42:31,790 on the cultural influence of spices. 687 00:42:35,020 --> 00:42:38,270 It's so abundant here. I mean, what you're just sort of surrounded by 688 00:42:38,300 --> 00:42:40,110 with this beautiful flock of birds just going past, 689 00:42:40,140 --> 00:42:41,390 and the coconut palms. 690 00:42:41,420 --> 00:42:44,750 You can just sort of feel the fertility oozing 691 00:42:44,780 --> 00:42:46,310 out of the land here. Yes. 692 00:42:46,340 --> 00:42:50,190 Absolutely. The main reason we have such 693 00:42:50,220 --> 00:42:54,790 an eclectic cultural make up in Kerala 694 00:42:54,820 --> 00:42:59,110 is because of the trade that we've had over centuries. 695 00:43:02,540 --> 00:43:05,390 Jewish, Christian and Arab populations 696 00:43:05,420 --> 00:43:08,270 all made Kerala their home. 697 00:43:08,300 --> 00:43:12,230 It was the spice trade that first brought Arab Muslims 698 00:43:12,260 --> 00:43:13,710 and Islam to India. 699 00:43:13,740 --> 00:43:17,150 Arab traders took Indian spices to East Africa, 700 00:43:17,180 --> 00:43:19,550 Western Asia and the Mediterranean. 701 00:43:19,580 --> 00:43:22,990 And then European colonial empires extended those routes 702 00:43:23,020 --> 00:43:24,230 to the Americas. 703 00:43:26,180 --> 00:43:28,750 The Portuguese brought chillies from South America, 704 00:43:28,780 --> 00:43:31,310 and chillies have become such an important ingredient 705 00:43:31,340 --> 00:43:32,910 in our cooking today. 706 00:43:32,940 --> 00:43:34,590 It is an incredible fact that, 707 00:43:34,620 --> 00:43:38,150 because I think people always associate chilli with India, 708 00:43:38,180 --> 00:43:39,950 and particularly with southern India. 709 00:43:39,980 --> 00:43:42,270 They don't think of it as an import. 710 00:43:42,300 --> 00:43:45,790 The spice trade has had huge, huge impact here. 711 00:43:45,820 --> 00:43:47,430 This is who we are. 712 00:43:47,460 --> 00:43:50,190 I mean, I can't imagine Kerala without spices, 713 00:43:50,220 --> 00:43:52,550 I can't imagine our food without spices, 714 00:43:52,580 --> 00:43:54,990 I can't imagine relationships without spices. 715 00:43:55,020 --> 00:43:57,310 It's the soul of the land. 716 00:43:57,340 --> 00:44:00,550 And it shows how just ecology and nature 717 00:44:00,580 --> 00:44:04,950 and the natural world really impacts human history. 718 00:44:04,980 --> 00:44:07,870 We wouldn't have this history, we wouldn't have these cultures, 719 00:44:07,900 --> 00:44:09,750 we wouldn't have these religions. 720 00:44:09,780 --> 00:44:12,710 We wouldn't have such harmony between the people 721 00:44:12,740 --> 00:44:14,950 if it was not for the spice trade. 722 00:44:24,700 --> 00:44:29,510 The Malabar Coast of Kerala is a treasure and a wonder 723 00:44:29,540 --> 00:44:33,910 because it's the most brilliant example of how really specialised, 724 00:44:33,940 --> 00:44:37,070 unique environments can impact, not just on local, 725 00:44:37,100 --> 00:44:39,710 but on global culture. 726 00:44:39,740 --> 00:44:44,310 The profusion of plenty and bounty here has generated 727 00:44:44,340 --> 00:44:47,150 really remarkable home-grown traditions, 728 00:44:47,180 --> 00:44:52,350 but has also tempted in traders and invaders across the centuries, 729 00:44:52,380 --> 00:44:54,910 who brought their own customs that are now 730 00:44:54,940 --> 00:45:01,790 a part of India's rich, diverse, incredibly varied cultural ecology. 731 00:45:08,900 --> 00:45:13,270 I'm extraordinarily lucky that so many south Indians - 732 00:45:13,300 --> 00:45:19,950 buffalo herders and pilgrims, historians and artists - 733 00:45:19,980 --> 00:45:24,270 have offered to share their treasure-filled heritage with me. 734 00:45:26,260 --> 00:45:29,910 Because India is a cradle of civilisations 735 00:45:29,940 --> 00:45:32,710 and a cauldron of the human experience. 736 00:45:33,980 --> 00:45:36,430 This is somewhere that the millennia has helped 737 00:45:36,460 --> 00:45:39,230 to ferment ideas and innovations. 738 00:45:40,460 --> 00:45:44,790 Currents of culture that have merged to create a wide 739 00:45:44,820 --> 00:45:48,470 and wonderful river of history, 740 00:45:48,500 --> 00:45:54,070 a river that nourishes India itself and many others beyond. 741 00:46:02,540 --> 00:46:06,510 I spoke to the Open University about our exploration of India. 742 00:46:06,540 --> 00:46:10,350 To watch this exclusive interview and to discover more about past 743 00:46:10,380 --> 00:46:14,910 and present global cultures, go to the Open University's website. 744 00:46:26,700 --> 00:46:31,470 Subtitles by Red Bee Media 55165

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