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I'm being led somewhere I've never
been before,
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so I'm completely in
the hands of my guide.
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But I'm incredibly lucky,
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00:00:19,340 --> 00:00:23,270
because I think what I'm about
to see is miraculous,
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and certainly wonderful,
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because the village up
ahead of me have been preparing
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a celebration for over a month,
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and if things go well,
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then I'm promised that I'll have
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the chance to experience
the presence of a god.
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I'm exploring India's
cultural treasures,
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00:00:48,380 --> 00:00:50,790
guided by its leading experts...
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00:00:50,820 --> 00:00:51,990
Hello.
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There is so much to discover here,
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as far as the horizon can see.
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...revealing world-class
historical riches,
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and game-changing human stories...
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00:01:03,340 --> 00:01:06,110
...a mountain railway that connects
ancient and modern...
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00:01:08,420 --> 00:01:09,990
...unique, enduring wonders
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00:01:10,020 --> 00:01:12,310
of medieval art
and architecture...
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So you're at best on the history.
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That's an incredibly
beautiful thing.
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...and a 500-year-old abandoned city.
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This is the most
extraordinary place.
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It would have been fantastic
inside there,
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it would have been buzzing
and thrumming with life.
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These are some of
the greatest treasures of India.
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Southern India,
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with its extraordinary cultural
and graphical diversity.
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Here landscapes have made history.
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00:02:01,980 --> 00:02:05,030
I've been travelling to India
for decades,
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on the trail of
the inspirational ideas
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and the pioneering philosophies
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that emerge from the subcontinent.
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And now I'm here to try to explore
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00:02:13,820 --> 00:02:16,990
how this incredible landscape
around me
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has impacted on
the culture of India through time,
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and also how that culture has
impacted the wider world.
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Our first treasure is
the lost city of Hampi
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in the heart of southern India.
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I've been told that at
the top of this hill,
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1,700 feet above sea level,
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IS an awesome experience.
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00:03:03,140 --> 00:03:06,230
Oh, it's just so majestic.
45
00:03:06,260 --> 00:03:08,790
So what you're looking at down there
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is one of the world's greatest
abandoned cities.
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There are over 1,600 monuments
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spread out over 16 square miles,
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that's 40 square kilometres,
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and loads of it is still waiting
to be explored.
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Hampi, named after Pampa,
a local river goddess,
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was re-branded Vijayanagara,
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City of Victory, from 1336,
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the capital of a powerful
new empire.
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00:03:42,540 --> 00:03:45,470
Visitors have actually been coming
here for centuries.
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There's a Portuguese horse trader
called Domingo Paes,
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who climbed up this hill,
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00:03:52,060 --> 00:03:54,390
but he said that even up here he
couldn't see it all,
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because bits were hidden behind
these ranges of hills.
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00:03:57,980 --> 00:03:59,190
But despite that,
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he said it seemed to him
to be as big as Rome,
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and a very beautiful site.
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00:04:09,460 --> 00:04:11,190
By the 1500s,
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this was the second largest city in
the world,
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but within a century
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it would be a deserted ruin,
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00:04:19,540 --> 00:04:20,990
reclaimed by nature.
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I want to get to the bottom of its
intriguing history.
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00:04:33,340 --> 00:04:35,270
There's a man called Arjun Bhat,
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00:04:35,300 --> 00:04:38,030
who's made this place his
life's work,
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00:04:38,060 --> 00:04:41,550
so I'm hoping he's going to decode
it a bit for me.
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00:04:47,060 --> 00:04:48,430
Hey.
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Nice to see you.
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It is my pleasure.
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Oh. Bettany.
How lovely to meet you.
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My name is Arjun.
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This is the most extraordinary
place. It's so huge.
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Yeah. There is stones everywhere,
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00:05:03,500 --> 00:05:06,270
granite structures as far as your
eyes can see.
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00:05:06,300 --> 00:05:09,110
Yes. There is so much to discover
here.
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00:05:09,140 --> 00:05:11,390
Every day I get excited,
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00:05:11,420 --> 00:05:13,390
like I'm listening to
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00:05:13,420 --> 00:05:15,670
some new information for
the very first time.
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This was once a culture at the
cutting edge
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of urbanisation
and new technology,
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with a diverse population
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00:05:26,940 --> 00:05:30,510
of over 500,000 people,
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00:05:30,540 --> 00:05:33,190
making the most
of their natural environment.
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So, it's a very romantic place here.
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00:05:36,300 --> 00:05:37,830
I imagine there must be
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00:05:37,860 --> 00:05:41,230
a very practical reason why they
built the city here.
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00:05:41,260 --> 00:05:43,070
Yeah, for sure. If you look around,
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00:05:43,100 --> 00:05:47,470
these boulder hills provided
a natural line of defence.
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00:05:47,500 --> 00:05:49,750
And the river itself, you know,
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00:05:49,780 --> 00:05:51,430
also difficult to cross.
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00:05:51,460 --> 00:05:54,190
But the river provided for
resources to bring
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a grand city and sustain
a large population.
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00:05:59,660 --> 00:06:01,910
Its sophisticated water supply,
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00:06:01,940 --> 00:06:03,590
from dams and aqueducts,
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00:06:03,620 --> 00:06:05,910
to stepwells and running water,
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00:06:05,940 --> 00:06:09,150
made Vijayanagara an envy of
the world.
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00:06:09,180 --> 00:06:11,430
It's Abd-al-Razzaq isn't it,
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00:06:11,460 --> 00:06:13,030
that Persian scholar who writes
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00:06:13,060 --> 00:06:15,350
so beautifully about this place
in the 1400s,
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00:06:15,380 --> 00:06:16,790
and you can tell he's just
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completely blown away by what
he finds.
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Yeah, he must have walked into
a paradise.
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00:06:21,660 --> 00:06:25,430
We are in a semi-arid dry desert,
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00:06:25,460 --> 00:06:28,270
and it's been transformed
through irrigation,
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00:06:28,300 --> 00:06:30,590
and that's why, you know,
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a city has flourished here in
this spot.
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00:06:35,700 --> 00:06:37,750
Arjun leads me to a hidden corner,
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overlooked by hills that are home
to sloth bears and leopards,
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00:06:41,220 --> 00:06:43,790
to give me a sense of the scale
of this place.
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00:06:46,060 --> 00:06:47,590
So, this is a marketplace
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that is almost a kilometre long.
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And each of these would have been
a shop,
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00:06:52,740 --> 00:06:55,190
so imagine the population that
they are catering to.
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And there are seven of these
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within the city of Vijayanagara.
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This is just one.
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Do you hear a lot of the things that
were traded here still?
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00:07:03,740 --> 00:07:05,990
Yeah, brocades from China. Yes.
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00:07:06,020 --> 00:07:07,710
Spices from the Malabar Coast. Yes.
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00:07:07,740 --> 00:07:10,030
Horses from the port of Hormuz. Yes.
126
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Yeah. There's one account that says
that it's really difficult
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00:07:12,900 --> 00:07:14,150
to get through the streets,
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00:07:14,180 --> 00:07:17,070
because there are so many people,
and so many elephants,
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00:07:17,100 --> 00:07:19,750
you know, herds of elephants here,
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00:07:19,780 --> 00:07:23,030
in this absolute throng of a
kind of international crowd.
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00:07:26,420 --> 00:07:29,830
So, who exactly were the people of
Vijayanagara?
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700 years ago the Hindu rulers
of Hampi
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extended their kingdom over most
of southern India,
134
00:07:37,300 --> 00:07:41,870
combining military might with
the patronage of scholars,
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00:07:41,900 --> 00:07:43,830
poets and artists,
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00:07:43,860 --> 00:07:47,710
and they did nothing by halves.
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00:07:53,100 --> 00:07:55,630
That's unbelievably impressive.
138
00:07:57,660 --> 00:08:01,510
This Ganesha is carved just
out of one granite boulder.
139
00:08:01,540 --> 00:08:05,870
Yeah, this is the largest monolith
of Ganesha.
140
00:08:07,580 --> 00:08:09,910
When you come to India you're struck
by the fact that
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00:08:09,940 --> 00:08:11,870
the gods and goddesses,
and spirits and demigods,
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00:08:11,900 --> 00:08:14,590
a lot of them are half human,
half animal.
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00:08:14,620 --> 00:08:17,910
Does that tell you something about
the psyche of belief here?
144
00:08:17,940 --> 00:08:21,030
Yeah. There is divinity in every
possible form.
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We are all part of the one
consciousness, or one nature, yeah.
146
00:08:24,500 --> 00:08:27,670
Why has Ganesha been put right at
the entrance to the city here?
147
00:08:27,700 --> 00:08:30,950
So, he's considered as
the ruler of obstacles,
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so you'll often see
Ganesha at entrances of homes.
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In this case you're right in
the entrance of Hampi.
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00:08:37,500 --> 00:08:39,790
The first deity you see is Ganesha.
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00:08:39,820 --> 00:08:42,190
So, there's definitely
a message there, isn't it?
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It's kind of saying, this is a city
where anything is possible.
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Yeah, everyone's welcome,
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and all things are made
possible here.
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Inside the 15th-century
Vijaya Vitthala Temple complex,
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on the northern fringes of the city,
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the chariot-shaped shrine
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00:09:02,660 --> 00:09:04,510
of the demigod Garuda,
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00:09:04,540 --> 00:09:07,030
finely carved from pure granite,
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00:09:07,060 --> 00:09:09,590
is a symbol of Hampi's
sophistication.
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00:09:11,020 --> 00:09:15,830
And nearby sculptures offer a vital
clue to the kingdom's success.
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This is a kind of divine
wedding hall,
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and it's protected by all these
warlords dressed in different dress.
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And the fantastic thing is,
it shows you just how multicultural,
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how multi-international
the influences were here.
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00:09:33,100 --> 00:09:35,510
So, these are locals,
and we know they're locals,
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cos they've got a man bun,
168
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and they have got fantastic
Tamil jewellery on
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the bracelets round their arms.
170
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And then here,
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he's dressed as
a Muslim Turkic warlord,
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with that fantastic turban
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and the curved,
kind of scimitar sword.
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Vijayanagara's true eclectic
identity is becoming clear,
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00:10:03,620 --> 00:10:08,070
and then Arjun tips me off about
another place to explore,
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00:10:08,100 --> 00:10:11,030
tucked away in a banana grove,
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a tomb to one of Hampi's
great generals,
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with Islamic features,
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00:10:16,740 --> 00:10:19,030
like pointed arches,
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00:10:19,060 --> 00:10:22,390
flanked by something even
more revealing.
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00:10:25,260 --> 00:10:28,590
Now, this looks like
a really typical Hindu temple,
182
00:10:28,620 --> 00:10:31,070
but have a look at this.
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So, this is a prayer niche,
184
00:10:33,620 --> 00:10:35,990
and it's facing Mecca,
185
00:10:36,020 --> 00:10:39,310
so because we're here in
India it's facing west,
186
00:10:39,340 --> 00:10:42,150
and that tells you that
the building I'm standing in
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is a Mosque.
188
00:10:44,260 --> 00:10:47,750
So, what we're getting is this
really detailed,
189
00:10:47,780 --> 00:10:50,910
intriguing picture of
a kingdom that's attracting
190
00:10:50,940 --> 00:10:54,590
and harnessing talent and influence
191
00:10:54,620 --> 00:10:58,110
and ideas from right across
the subcontinent.
192
00:11:02,900 --> 00:11:07,790
But these cosmopolitan glory days
were destined to end.
193
00:11:07,820 --> 00:11:11,830
In 1565, after centuries of turmoil,
194
00:11:11,860 --> 00:11:14,150
Vijayanagara finally succumbed
195
00:11:14,180 --> 00:11:19,030
to a coalition of neighbouring
powers invading from the north.
196
00:11:20,340 --> 00:11:24,230
We're told that the atrocities were
many and ferocious,
197
00:11:24,260 --> 00:11:27,910
and huge areas of
the city were burnt to the ground.
198
00:11:27,940 --> 00:11:30,830
Eventually, when the kingdom fell,
199
00:11:30,860 --> 00:11:34,710
the looting here carried on
for six months.
200
00:11:40,500 --> 00:11:42,390
The empire never recovered.
201
00:11:43,460 --> 00:11:46,870
Southern India was torn apart by
warring dynasties.
202
00:11:48,540 --> 00:11:52,990
Unity wouldn't be restored
for another 400 years.
203
00:11:55,860 --> 00:11:58,390
This was a culture who knew how
to work with
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00:11:58,420 --> 00:12:00,390
the resources of nature,
205
00:12:00,420 --> 00:12:02,350
and also how important it was
206
00:12:02,380 --> 00:12:04,990
to invite in new people across
their borders
207
00:12:05,020 --> 00:12:06,310
and boundaries.
208
00:12:06,340 --> 00:12:10,270
It's a reminder of the power
and value of harmony.
209
00:12:10,300 --> 00:12:12,750
Harmony's a really interesting word,
210
00:12:12,780 --> 00:12:15,070
because if you look at it in
a number of languages,
211
00:12:15,100 --> 00:12:17,390
in Latin and in the kind of
212
00:12:17,420 --> 00:12:19,870
base tongue of many
Indian languages,
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00:12:19,900 --> 00:12:21,470
it's not a soft word,
214
00:12:21,500 --> 00:12:24,790
it's something really active about
fitting and fixing,
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00:12:24,820 --> 00:12:26,830
and mixing together,
216
00:12:26,860 --> 00:12:30,230
and it tells us that we're actually
at our strongest,
217
00:12:30,260 --> 00:12:31,870
at our most harmonious,
218
00:12:31,900 --> 00:12:34,510
when we're allowed not to be just
the same,
219
00:12:34,540 --> 00:12:37,310
but all to be different.
220
00:12:52,820 --> 00:12:55,790
I've travelled to
Thanjavur in Tamil Nadu...
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00:12:55,820 --> 00:12:56,990
HORN TOOTS LOUDLY
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00:12:57,020 --> 00:12:59,510
...360 miles south-east of Hampi.
223
00:12:59,540 --> 00:13:01,870
From the 9th to the 13th century,
224
00:13:01,900 --> 00:13:05,030
this was the centre of one of the
subcontinent's
225
00:13:05,060 --> 00:13:07,070
greatest ever empires,
226
00:13:07,100 --> 00:13:09,590
ruled by the Chola Dynasty.
227
00:13:10,740 --> 00:13:14,230
Our next treasure is
the exceptional art
228
00:13:14,260 --> 00:13:16,630
and architecture they left behind.
229
00:13:19,900 --> 00:13:22,430
I'm making my way somewhere that was
built to be
230
00:13:22,460 --> 00:13:25,630
an incarnation of the centre of
the world,
231
00:13:25,660 --> 00:13:27,950
a kind of axis of all the earth,
232
00:13:27,980 --> 00:13:30,310
So you can expect it
to be pretty imposing.
233
00:13:39,540 --> 00:13:43,270
This entire temple is made
of granite,
234
00:13:43,300 --> 00:13:46,270
so it's just extraordinary
the detail
235
00:13:46,300 --> 00:13:48,630
that they've managed
to coax out of the stone,
236
00:13:48,660 --> 00:13:52,950
and what you've got to think is
that this is a thousand years old.
237
00:13:57,420 --> 00:13:59,750
This temple, the Brihadeeswara,
238
00:13:59,780 --> 00:14:01,390
or Great Shiva,
239
00:14:01,420 --> 00:14:06,790
broke all records when it was
completed in 1010 CE.
240
00:14:06,820 --> 00:14:09,550
It's vimana, this central tower,
241
00:14:09,580 --> 00:14:12,390
was the tallest structure in India,
242
00:14:12,420 --> 00:14:14,710
and one of the tallest in the world.
243
00:14:14,740 --> 00:14:18,270
We're told that
a four-mile-long ramp was built
244
00:14:18,300 --> 00:14:21,270
to raise this 80-tonne capstone.
245
00:14:22,900 --> 00:14:25,390
Worship's continued in this
spectacular treasure
246
00:14:25,420 --> 00:14:27,670
for over a millennium.
247
00:14:27,700 --> 00:14:30,110
CONCH SHELL BLOWS
248
00:14:30,140 --> 00:14:33,710
And I find myself here on
an auspicious day,
249
00:14:33,740 --> 00:14:36,030
celebrating the fertility of
the land.
250
00:14:39,820 --> 00:14:42,630
So I'm made to feel especially
welcome.
251
00:14:42,660 --> 00:14:45,510
Hello, lovely to see you.
252
00:14:45,540 --> 00:14:47,830
My name's Bettany.
What's your name?
253
00:14:47,860 --> 00:14:50,190
Sathi. Andali. Sathi and Andali.
254
00:14:50,220 --> 00:14:51,710
So, what do you do today?
255
00:14:51,740 --> 00:14:54,710
THEY ALL CHAT AT ONCE
256
00:14:56,700 --> 00:14:58,550
So, what these lovely ladies have
told me,
257
00:14:58,580 --> 00:15:00,310
they've come on a
special festival day
258
00:15:00,340 --> 00:15:02,670
and these lovely red necklaces
are a sign
259
00:15:02,700 --> 00:15:04,270
that they've come here to the
temple,
260
00:15:04,300 --> 00:15:06,630
and they're going to go away
with better luck.
261
00:15:06,660 --> 00:15:09,150
Everybody's got them, they're
beautiful, they're beautiful.
262
00:15:09,180 --> 00:15:11,510
It's so lovely to meet you.
GIRLS: Thank you.
263
00:15:11,540 --> 00:15:13,910
Thank you so much.
GIRLS: Bye.
264
00:15:18,860 --> 00:15:23,230
About 10,000 pilgrims make their way
here every day,
265
00:15:23,260 --> 00:15:25,950
30,000 during festivals.
266
00:15:27,500 --> 00:15:31,310
The builder of the ambitious complex
left clues on the walls
267
00:15:31,340 --> 00:15:34,910
in ancient Sanskrit
and Middle Tamil.
268
00:15:34,940 --> 00:15:37,270
Thousands of lines
269
00:15:37,300 --> 00:15:39,750
dating from
the temple's foundation.
270
00:15:41,900 --> 00:15:44,990
Doctor Bavani,
a lifelong champion of Thanjavur,
271
00:15:45,020 --> 00:15:47,910
and one of India's leading
inscription experts,
272
00:15:47,940 --> 00:15:50,470
has offered to help me interpret
the evidence.
273
00:15:50,500 --> 00:15:52,070
What does it say?
274
00:15:52,100 --> 00:15:55,310
SHE SPEAKS SANSKRIT
275
00:15:55,340 --> 00:15:59,070
And live,
she decodes the Sanskrit messages.
276
00:16:02,740 --> 00:16:04,430
Ah, like a lion,
277
00:16:04,460 --> 00:16:06,070
so he was like the king of the
jungle?
278
00:16:06,100 --> 00:16:07,550
Oh, yes, yes.
279
00:16:07,580 --> 00:16:08,710
Amazing.
280
00:16:18,180 --> 00:16:20,710
This is not a shy man,
so he's saying he's so proud,
281
00:16:20,740 --> 00:16:22,070
or he's so successful,
282
00:16:22,100 --> 00:16:24,830
that he's conquered huge areas in
other people's territories
283
00:16:24,860 --> 00:16:27,190
and he's going to wear their crowns
284
00:16:27,220 --> 00:16:29,510
like a garland around his neck.
285
00:16:29,540 --> 00:16:32,150
You get the sense he's quite proud
of what he did.
286
00:16:37,220 --> 00:16:38,710
The whole complex,
287
00:16:38,740 --> 00:16:42,470
built to emulate Lord Shiva's
mountain home in the Himalayas,
288
00:16:42,500 --> 00:16:44,750
is tribute to its founder,
289
00:16:44,780 --> 00:16:46,630
Rajaraja Chola I,
290
00:16:46,660 --> 00:16:49,830
whose name means King of Kings.
291
00:16:51,260 --> 00:16:53,590
The greatest ruler of
the Chola dynasty,
292
00:16:53,620 --> 00:16:57,230
Rajaraja was the first to
unite peninsular Southern India,
293
00:16:57,260 --> 00:17:00,070
and to conquer an overseas empire,
294
00:17:00,100 --> 00:17:02,590
extending Chola power and influence
295
00:17:02,620 --> 00:17:04,470
into what's now Sri Lanka
296
00:17:04,500 --> 00:17:05,870
and Southeast Asia.
297
00:17:07,340 --> 00:17:10,670
The natural resources
of his vast domain were employed in
298
00:17:10,700 --> 00:17:12,550
the temple's construction,
299
00:17:12,580 --> 00:17:15,310
and recorded on its walls.
300
00:17:18,060 --> 00:17:20,390
So, all of this describes the kind
of entertainers
301
00:17:20,420 --> 00:17:21,910
and performers who were here,
302
00:17:21,940 --> 00:17:25,630
so there were sacred
parasol holders,
303
00:17:25,660 --> 00:17:28,830
and musicians and drummers,
304
00:17:28,860 --> 00:17:31,150
and we're told that 400
dancing girls
305
00:17:31,180 --> 00:17:33,190
were brought in from another temple.
306
00:17:33,220 --> 00:17:35,550
And then there's
a detail I just adore,
307
00:17:35,580 --> 00:17:40,070
so there were 40 female
conch shell musicians,
308
00:17:40,100 --> 00:17:42,990
and there are still women blowing
conch shells
309
00:17:43,020 --> 00:17:44,270
here in the temple today,
310
00:17:44,300 --> 00:17:47,350
so it's just this kind of direct
line of continuity.
311
00:17:47,380 --> 00:17:49,710
It just makes you begin to
appreciate
312
00:17:49,740 --> 00:17:53,670
how it just would
have been fantastic inside there.
313
00:17:53,700 --> 00:17:56,630
It would have been just buzzing
and thrumming
314
00:17:56,660 --> 00:17:58,870
and humming with life.
315
00:18:03,220 --> 00:18:07,550
The temple's huge logistical supply
chain is also set out,
316
00:18:07,580 --> 00:18:10,990
including the 54,000 bananas a year
317
00:18:11,020 --> 00:18:14,310
offered to the elephant-headed god
Ganesha.
318
00:18:15,660 --> 00:18:18,950
This was a seriously wealthy empire.
319
00:18:18,980 --> 00:18:23,310
This writing here describes pearls
that were laced on strings
320
00:18:23,340 --> 00:18:24,710
of pure gold.
321
00:18:24,740 --> 00:18:26,710
"Pum" is the word for gold.
322
00:18:26,740 --> 00:18:30,430
And we also know that
the kings taxed their empire,
323
00:18:30,460 --> 00:18:33,030
so there was an enormous tax on
the trade of copper
324
00:18:33,060 --> 00:18:34,230
and tin and gold,
325
00:18:34,260 --> 00:18:35,710
from places as far afield as
326
00:18:35,740 --> 00:18:37,550
the Caliphate in Baghdad,
327
00:18:37,580 --> 00:18:39,270
and even China.
328
00:18:42,300 --> 00:18:44,710
Hi, OK? Thank you.
329
00:18:44,740 --> 00:18:47,270
Two of these metals, copper and tin,
330
00:18:47,300 --> 00:18:51,670
were responsible for firing
a pinnacle of Chola culture,
331
00:18:51,700 --> 00:18:55,590
iconic sculptures known as
Chola bronzes.
332
00:18:58,300 --> 00:19:01,990
Swamimalai,
an hour's drive from Thanjavur,
333
00:19:02,020 --> 00:19:05,550
has been producing Chola-style
bronzes for centuries,
334
00:19:05,580 --> 00:19:09,390
thanks to alluvial soil from
the Kaveri river bed,
335
00:19:09,420 --> 00:19:12,990
an essential ingredient in
the bronze casting process.
336
00:19:14,900 --> 00:19:16,350
The original icons,
337
00:19:16,380 --> 00:19:18,790
which once adorned the
Chola temples,
338
00:19:18,820 --> 00:19:22,390
can now sell for millions
of dollars.
339
00:19:22,420 --> 00:19:25,270
The trail to their living equivalent
has led me
340
00:19:25,300 --> 00:19:27,910
to the Stapathy family workshop,
341
00:19:27,940 --> 00:19:30,230
where each wonder is created
342
00:19:30,260 --> 00:19:34,150
as a living, divine one-off.
343
00:19:40,540 --> 00:19:43,950
Do you know how long your family
has been making these bronzes,
344
00:19:43,980 --> 00:19:45,350
how many generations back?
345
00:20:02,700 --> 00:20:04,550
So you're a vessel of history,
346
00:20:04,580 --> 00:20:06,830
that's an incredibly
beautiful thing.
347
00:20:11,300 --> 00:20:12,910
The three brothers who work here
348
00:20:12,940 --> 00:20:16,630
use the ancient lost wax technique.
349
00:20:16,660 --> 00:20:19,590
They sculpt the model out of wax,
350
00:20:19,620 --> 00:20:22,550
and then encase it in that alluvial
river clay
351
00:20:22,580 --> 00:20:24,270
before heating it.
352
00:20:26,540 --> 00:20:28,470
The wax then melts away,
353
00:20:28,500 --> 00:20:31,430
replaced by molten bronze.
354
00:20:34,260 --> 00:20:36,270
That is why we use the phrase,
355
00:20:36,300 --> 00:20:37,790
"breaking the mould"
356
00:20:37,820 --> 00:20:39,790
because by the time he's broken this
357
00:20:39,820 --> 00:20:42,710
there will be a unique statue
that will appear,
358
00:20:42,740 --> 00:20:45,030
and there will be no other one
in the future
359
00:20:45,060 --> 00:20:46,590
that is exactly the same.
360
00:20:46,620 --> 00:20:49,990
So, I'm witnessing
the breaking of the mould.
361
00:20:53,940 --> 00:20:56,790
Once a statue is completed as
a work of art,
362
00:20:56,820 --> 00:20:58,590
there's one final step.
363
00:20:59,900 --> 00:21:01,870
The Prana Pratishtha,
364
00:21:01,900 --> 00:21:04,830
a ritual in which
the deity is invited
365
00:21:04,860 --> 00:21:08,190
to take up residence within
the sculpture.
366
00:21:10,020 --> 00:21:12,430
It's a transcendental moment
367
00:21:12,460 --> 00:21:14,710
when the statue's eyes are
368
00:21:14,740 --> 00:21:16,350
symbolically opened...
369
00:21:19,580 --> 00:21:21,830
...its five senses awakened...
370
00:21:24,780 --> 00:21:28,470
...and the object becomes
a living icon.
371
00:21:32,540 --> 00:21:34,790
It's just so incredible to see,
372
00:21:34,820 --> 00:21:36,790
because I know about the statues
373
00:21:36,820 --> 00:21:39,150
from the ancient world that are
treated like this,
374
00:21:39,180 --> 00:21:41,510
and they have garlands
of flowers put on them,
375
00:21:41,540 --> 00:21:44,270
and so it's incredible
to witness this.
376
00:21:44,300 --> 00:21:46,790
Thank you so much for letting me
see this.
377
00:21:56,300 --> 00:21:58,790
Chola culture is a fascinating,
378
00:21:58,820 --> 00:22:02,190
captivating treasure of south India,
379
00:22:02,220 --> 00:22:04,470
because it shows how prosperity,
380
00:22:04,500 --> 00:22:06,150
how worldly wealth
381
00:22:06,180 --> 00:22:07,950
and the gifts of nature,
382
00:22:07,980 --> 00:22:11,750
can be used to create art that acts
as a gateway
383
00:22:11,780 --> 00:22:14,750
to experience the divine.
384
00:22:14,780 --> 00:22:17,950
And also now, in the 21st century,
385
00:22:17,980 --> 00:22:22,310
it gives us a window onto a
rich, sensuous,
386
00:22:22,340 --> 00:22:25,150
confident, celebratory,
387
00:22:25,180 --> 00:22:26,830
medieval world.
388
00:22:44,140 --> 00:22:47,590
It's early morning,
and I've come to Mettupalayam,
389
00:22:47,620 --> 00:22:49,870
a small station in Tamil Nadu,
390
00:22:49,900 --> 00:22:52,470
150 miles from Thanjavur.
391
00:22:56,060 --> 00:22:58,510
I'm on my way to our next treasure,
392
00:22:58,540 --> 00:23:01,110
the landscapes and culture
393
00:23:01,140 --> 00:23:03,510
of the Nilgiri Mountains.
394
00:23:06,100 --> 00:23:10,110
Travelling by train is basically my
happy place,
395
00:23:10,140 --> 00:23:12,790
so if you combine train travel
396
00:23:12,820 --> 00:23:15,710
with heritage then I am in heaven.
397
00:23:15,740 --> 00:23:18,910
But it's an interesting issue here
of course,
398
00:23:18,940 --> 00:23:22,990
because a lot of the trains were
built by colonial powers,
399
00:23:23,020 --> 00:23:26,790
so I'm just about
to meet somebody who's taking me to
400
00:23:26,820 --> 00:23:29,310
an extraordinary heritage train,
401
00:23:29,340 --> 00:23:31,790
and it'll be really interesting
to find out whether,
402
00:23:31,820 --> 00:23:34,150
yeah, whether he thinks it's
more than just
403
00:23:34,180 --> 00:23:37,510
a bit of colonial culture
and architecture.
404
00:23:38,900 --> 00:23:41,670
Hi, are you Mukund? Yes.
How lovely to meet you.
405
00:23:41,700 --> 00:23:43,390
Nice to put a face to the name.
406
00:23:43,420 --> 00:23:45,430
It is, it is. And this must be it.
407
00:23:45,460 --> 00:23:47,110
This is our train. Amazing.
408
00:23:50,260 --> 00:23:52,510
The Mettupalayam, the steam train,
409
00:23:52,540 --> 00:23:54,070
winds up through the Nilgiri,
410
00:23:54,100 --> 00:23:56,350
part of the Western Ghats range,
411
00:23:56,380 --> 00:23:59,030
separating Tamil Nadu from Kerala,
412
00:23:59,060 --> 00:24:01,790
up to the town of Ooty.
413
00:24:03,340 --> 00:24:06,110
It's Asia's steepest rail line,
414
00:24:06,140 --> 00:24:10,910
and, I'm promised,
one of its most enchanting sights.
415
00:24:12,540 --> 00:24:14,990
What's your connection to the train?
416
00:24:15,020 --> 00:24:19,350
Well, I went to boarding school in
Ooty where I spent nine years,
417
00:24:19,380 --> 00:24:21,710
and we watched it climb up and down,
418
00:24:21,740 --> 00:24:23,990
you know, under this fog of smoke.
419
00:24:24,020 --> 00:24:25,790
So it was very much
420
00:24:25,820 --> 00:24:29,710
a part of our heritage
and my childhood.
421
00:24:31,660 --> 00:24:34,470
I have to ask you this,
though, because this is a train,
422
00:24:34,500 --> 00:24:36,510
it was a railway that was built by
the British,
423
00:24:36,540 --> 00:24:40,230
and the railways were built
to extract resources from India,
424
00:24:40,260 --> 00:24:43,350
and to obviously to kind of
move that governing class around.
425
00:24:43,380 --> 00:24:45,670
So, is it OK to enjoy it?
426
00:24:45,700 --> 00:24:49,230
Yes, I think that's true
generally of the railways
427
00:24:49,260 --> 00:24:50,830
that the British built,
428
00:24:50,860 --> 00:24:53,710
but I still think, by and large,
429
00:24:53,740 --> 00:24:55,550
this is an outlier.
430
00:24:55,580 --> 00:24:57,510
It was built for leisure,
431
00:24:57,540 --> 00:25:00,350
it was built for cutting time down.
432
00:25:00,380 --> 00:25:03,870
I don't think there are too many
days when it's not full.
433
00:25:03,900 --> 00:25:05,590
People like the ride up.
434
00:25:05,620 --> 00:25:07,470
TRAIN HORN TOOTS
435
00:25:10,660 --> 00:25:12,950
First dreamt up in 1854,
436
00:25:12,980 --> 00:25:16,710
this line didn't fully open
until 1908,
437
00:25:16,740 --> 00:25:18,990
but by the time it was completed
438
00:25:19,020 --> 00:25:21,510
it was a pioneering marvel,
439
00:25:21,540 --> 00:25:23,790
boasting 16 tunnels
440
00:25:23,820 --> 00:25:26,630
and 250 bridges.
441
00:25:30,060 --> 00:25:33,030
I do get the sense though, for you,
it's not just
442
00:25:33,060 --> 00:25:36,910
the kind of engineering magnificence
of this that you love,
443
00:25:36,940 --> 00:25:38,510
it's something else?
444
00:25:38,540 --> 00:25:40,390
Why is it so special to you?
445
00:25:40,420 --> 00:25:42,150
I mean, it's special for a lot of
reasons.
446
00:25:42,180 --> 00:25:43,990
It's the only metre-gauge
track in India.
447
00:25:44,020 --> 00:25:45,550
It's the steepest.
448
00:25:45,580 --> 00:25:47,910
It's the only rack railway,
for instance.
449
00:25:47,940 --> 00:25:50,470
But to me, apart from all of this,
450
00:25:50,500 --> 00:25:54,470
it's uniqueness is the fact that it
is so slow.
451
00:25:54,500 --> 00:25:56,910
You know, it's the closest thing
to taking a walk
452
00:25:56,940 --> 00:25:58,870
in the woods while you're
sitting down.
453
00:25:58,900 --> 00:26:01,230
And you know, it's really
interesting because
454
00:26:01,260 --> 00:26:03,910
neuroscientists say that we
love travelling by train,
455
00:26:03,940 --> 00:26:07,190
because we can travel
and think at the same time,
456
00:26:07,220 --> 00:26:09,070
so maybe it's a train of ideas this.
457
00:26:09,100 --> 00:26:12,190
Absolutely, and there's a certain
intimacy to the journey.
458
00:26:12,220 --> 00:26:14,230
I mean, just look outside.
459
00:26:14,260 --> 00:26:17,510
It's just, you know,
trees almost at arms' length.
460
00:26:17,540 --> 00:26:19,270
It's just beautiful.
461
00:26:22,300 --> 00:26:24,870
And we're stopping.
Now we're stopping.
462
00:26:29,220 --> 00:26:31,550
The train makes several stops
on the journey
463
00:26:31,580 --> 00:26:34,790
at stations with names
like Runnymede,
464
00:26:34,820 --> 00:26:37,190
Hillgrove, Lovedale,
465
00:26:37,220 --> 00:26:40,870
where even the local monkeys know
the timetable.
466
00:26:42,380 --> 00:26:44,230
That's my lunch.
467
00:26:46,500 --> 00:26:48,150
So we're going to go up.
468
00:26:48,180 --> 00:26:51,150
Fantastic. I think
I blagged my way up at the front.
469
00:26:51,180 --> 00:26:52,550
GUARD'S WHISTLE BLOWS
470
00:26:57,940 --> 00:27:00,630
So, this is basically an incredibly
important man.
471
00:27:00,660 --> 00:27:01,830
He's the brake man,
472
00:27:01,860 --> 00:27:04,390
because the locomotive's at
the back.
473
00:27:04,420 --> 00:27:07,230
So he's the eyes
and ears of the train.
474
00:27:07,260 --> 00:27:08,830
Elephant. Elephant.
475
00:27:08,860 --> 00:27:10,310
Ah-ha.
476
00:27:10,340 --> 00:27:13,150
Just here. Oh, there's elephant poo!
477
00:27:13,180 --> 00:27:15,030
There's elephant poo!
478
00:27:15,060 --> 00:27:16,750
THEY LAUGH
479
00:27:17,940 --> 00:27:19,590
Look, can I show the...?
480
00:27:20,820 --> 00:27:22,790
Elephants on the line.
481
00:27:26,620 --> 00:27:28,470
And it's not just elephants.
482
00:27:28,500 --> 00:27:32,550
These hills are part of India's
first ever biosphere reserve,
483
00:27:32,580 --> 00:27:35,590
home to dozens of species
of protected animals -
484
00:27:35,620 --> 00:27:38,590
even tigers - and endemic plants,
485
00:27:38,620 --> 00:27:41,190
as well as some interlopers.
486
00:27:43,500 --> 00:27:46,590
So, you're starting
to see this new kind of
487
00:27:46,620 --> 00:27:48,150
plant on the hillside.
488
00:27:48,180 --> 00:27:49,550
Is that tea?
489
00:27:49,580 --> 00:27:52,110
And there are kind
of mixed feelings about it here,
490
00:27:52,140 --> 00:27:55,950
because obviously it brings a huge
amount of economy to the area.
491
00:27:55,980 --> 00:27:57,950
But it is an alien species.
492
00:27:57,980 --> 00:27:59,990
You know, it was originally brought
from China,
493
00:28:00,020 --> 00:28:03,310
so there's a kind of love-hate
relationship with the tea,
494
00:28:03,340 --> 00:28:05,190
and, of course, with the fact that
495
00:28:05,220 --> 00:28:08,430
the tea plantations were
imperial projects.
496
00:28:11,340 --> 00:28:16,150
Udhagamandalam,
known affectionately here as Ooty,
497
00:28:16,180 --> 00:28:18,390
is the line's final destination.
498
00:28:19,460 --> 00:28:22,950
A hill station developed in
the 19th century
499
00:28:22,980 --> 00:28:26,510
to escape the heat
of the Indian summer.
500
00:28:26,540 --> 00:28:28,030
TRAIN HORN TOOTS
501
00:28:33,460 --> 00:28:35,030
Thank you. Thank you.
502
00:28:35,060 --> 00:28:36,670
Happy memories, yeah?
503
00:28:36,700 --> 00:28:38,910
Yes, it feels like coming back home.
504
00:28:42,100 --> 00:28:44,790
Ooty is now a popular destination
for travellers
505
00:28:44,820 --> 00:28:47,230
and honeymooners from across
India,
506
00:28:47,260 --> 00:28:48,990
drawn to the climate,
507
00:28:49,020 --> 00:28:52,550
the scenery and heritage of
the Nilgiri,
508
00:28:52,580 --> 00:28:55,990
a heritage which stretches
right back.
509
00:28:59,300 --> 00:29:02,430
There's evidence from caves in these
mountains that there's been
510
00:29:02,460 --> 00:29:05,470
habitation here since the Neolithic,
511
00:29:05,500 --> 00:29:08,070
and actually early Buddhist
communities came
512
00:29:08,100 --> 00:29:11,950
to these slopes in either
the 4th or the 3rd century BCE,
513
00:29:11,980 --> 00:29:14,630
and started the practice of adoring,
514
00:29:14,660 --> 00:29:17,710
of kind of worshipping some
of these wonderful trees.
515
00:29:17,740 --> 00:29:23,350
But there's also a centuries-old
community that's still here.
516
00:29:25,260 --> 00:29:27,270
These forests and grasslands
517
00:29:27,300 --> 00:29:30,470
are the ancestral home of
the Toda people,
518
00:29:30,500 --> 00:29:34,510
who traditionally live
alongside wild and domestic buffalo
519
00:29:34,540 --> 00:29:36,870
in their hamlets called rounds.
520
00:29:40,180 --> 00:29:42,470
I'm privileged to have been invited
to meet
521
00:29:42,500 --> 00:29:44,070
a group of Toda women,
522
00:29:44,100 --> 00:29:46,670
the torchbearers of their
society's culture,
523
00:29:46,700 --> 00:29:49,430
at their home just outside Ooty.
524
00:29:50,460 --> 00:29:52,030
How are you? Good day, how are you?
525
00:29:52,060 --> 00:29:53,550
My name's Bettany.
526
00:29:53,580 --> 00:29:57,950
I'm partly welcome because, like
them, I'm a lifelong vegetarian,
527
00:29:57,980 --> 00:30:01,630
and I'm immediately envious
of their fabulous hairstyles,
528
00:30:01,660 --> 00:30:04,830
twisted, I'm told,
with buffalo buttermilk.
529
00:30:06,180 --> 00:30:07,470
The arrival of the train
530
00:30:07,500 --> 00:30:09,310
and the development of
the hill station
531
00:30:09,340 --> 00:30:12,270
up-ended the Todas' world,
532
00:30:12,300 --> 00:30:14,830
but interestingly they preserved
533
00:30:14,860 --> 00:30:18,350
an upbeat heirloom that documents
that collision.
534
00:30:36,380 --> 00:30:38,350
SINGING
535
00:30:56,260 --> 00:30:59,310
Beautiful, you can hear the rhythm
of the train.
536
00:30:59,340 --> 00:31:00,710
Yeah. Yeah.
537
00:31:00,740 --> 00:31:02,510
It sounds very positive,
538
00:31:02,540 --> 00:31:05,910
because the train changed
this place.
539
00:31:05,940 --> 00:31:09,510
It brought new people,
it brought different ways of life.
540
00:31:09,540 --> 00:31:12,230
But do you still think
the train is a good thing?
541
00:31:31,900 --> 00:31:35,230
It feels as though everything that
you're putting into the poetry
542
00:31:35,260 --> 00:31:39,030
and into your songs is about how
completely a part
543
00:31:39,060 --> 00:31:42,470
of the natural world of
the mountains that you are.
544
00:32:01,500 --> 00:32:03,750
Ah, thank you.
Shall I take my shoes off?
545
00:32:04,700 --> 00:32:06,350
Thank you.
546
00:32:06,380 --> 00:32:10,750
It's inspiring to find that spirit
living on in the next generation.
547
00:32:10,780 --> 00:32:12,630
Yeah, lovely, thank you.
548
00:32:13,980 --> 00:32:16,590
Lovely to meet you,
I'm Bettany. What's your name?
549
00:32:16,620 --> 00:32:20,110
Ah, OK. Amazing to hear those songs.
550
00:32:20,140 --> 00:32:22,390
Does your generation sing those
as well?
551
00:32:27,020 --> 00:32:29,870
Yeah, but do you think it's
something that can carry on in
552
00:32:29,900 --> 00:32:32,630
the future in India,
this way of life?
553
00:32:50,140 --> 00:32:53,190
THEY SING
554
00:33:02,220 --> 00:33:06,190
The Nilgiri Mountains are
a wonder of India,
555
00:33:06,220 --> 00:33:10,590
not just because of all this
extraordinary biodiversity,
556
00:33:10,620 --> 00:33:13,910
and the engineering
innovations that they've inspired,
557
00:33:13,940 --> 00:33:18,270
but there does seem to be
a kind of positive spirit here,
558
00:33:18,300 --> 00:33:20,590
so everyone I've met and spoken to
559
00:33:20,620 --> 00:33:23,350
is determined not just
to live life,
560
00:33:23,380 --> 00:33:25,270
but to respect it
561
00:33:25,300 --> 00:33:28,190
and to love the living of it.
562
00:33:42,700 --> 00:33:45,590
Our final treasure is
the ancient culture
563
00:33:45,620 --> 00:33:47,990
of the Malabar Coast and Kerala,
564
00:33:48,020 --> 00:33:50,590
in the country's tropical
south-west.
565
00:33:52,260 --> 00:33:54,750
Every year between October and May,
566
00:33:54,780 --> 00:33:59,630
the sacred groves, temples and
ancestral homes of north Malabar
567
00:33:59,660 --> 00:34:04,190
play host to extraordinary events.
568
00:34:06,860 --> 00:34:08,350
I've been invited here
569
00:34:08,380 --> 00:34:11,870
to witness something
incredibly special,
570
00:34:11,900 --> 00:34:14,590
something that's completely unique
to this part of Kerala.
571
00:34:14,620 --> 00:34:17,190
It's not just a performance,
572
00:34:17,220 --> 00:34:19,550
it's a devotional dance
573
00:34:19,580 --> 00:34:22,790
that some anthropologists think have
origins
574
00:34:22,820 --> 00:34:25,070
right the way back in the Neolithic,
575
00:34:25,100 --> 00:34:26,230
in the Stone Age.
576
00:34:27,620 --> 00:34:30,630
I've just got to find my friend
who's told me to come here.
577
00:34:30,660 --> 00:34:33,670
Reshma, Reshma, Reshma, hello!
578
00:34:33,700 --> 00:34:35,630
Hello. How lovely to see you.
579
00:34:35,660 --> 00:34:39,550
How are you? How was your trip here?
Oh, it was good, it was good. Hi.
580
00:34:44,660 --> 00:34:49,030
Reshma has brought me here
to experience a Theyyattam,
581
00:34:49,060 --> 00:34:52,510
a ceremony that stretches back
to pre-history,
582
00:34:52,540 --> 00:34:54,790
combining potent, ancient traditions
583
00:34:54,820 --> 00:34:56,590
and matriarchal rites,
584
00:34:56,620 --> 00:34:58,910
with contemporary Hinduism.
585
00:35:00,700 --> 00:35:04,190
"They ya" means god in
the local language here.
586
00:35:04,220 --> 00:35:08,590
It's the same as our words like
Theo, like theology
587
00:35:08,620 --> 00:35:10,910
and atheistic,
so it's the same root.
588
00:35:10,940 --> 00:35:12,750
And "attam" means a dance,
589
00:35:12,780 --> 00:35:15,550
so this is a god dance.
590
00:35:15,580 --> 00:35:18,230
DRUMS BEAT
591
00:35:26,260 --> 00:35:29,110
Thanks to Reshma I get
to meet one of the dancers
592
00:35:29,140 --> 00:35:32,190
and his guru as he prepares
for his journey
593
00:35:32,220 --> 00:35:34,790
from the natural to the
supernatural.
594
00:35:36,860 --> 00:35:39,190
So, thank you for letting us
come here.
595
00:35:39,220 --> 00:35:41,510
Why is he being made up?
What's happening to him?
596
00:35:45,820 --> 00:35:48,070
HE SPEAKS IN LOCAL LANGUAGE
597
00:35:54,580 --> 00:35:57,110
So, after the make-up,
when he looks into the mirror
598
00:35:57,140 --> 00:35:59,710
he's seeing God, he's not seeing
himself,
599
00:35:59,740 --> 00:36:04,110
and so he feels within his conscious
that he's God.
600
00:36:04,140 --> 00:36:07,790
So, what does it feel like when
you become a god?
601
00:36:07,820 --> 00:36:10,310
RESHMA TRANSLATES
602
00:36:10,340 --> 00:36:12,270
HE SPEAKS LOCAL LANGUAGE
603
00:36:17,580 --> 00:36:20,790
When he becomes the deity
he gets into a trance,
604
00:36:20,820 --> 00:36:23,470
and he doesn't feel like
a human being at all,
605
00:36:23,500 --> 00:36:25,230
and then he walks on the fire.
606
00:36:25,260 --> 00:36:26,990
If it's burning him he doesn't
feel it,
607
00:36:27,020 --> 00:36:29,590
because he's not there any more,
he's not in his body.
608
00:36:29,620 --> 00:36:30,670
Gosh.
609
00:36:32,140 --> 00:36:35,390
So, if they've been happening since
before recorded time,
610
00:36:35,420 --> 00:36:38,030
do you think they're going to
carry on into the future as well?
611
00:36:38,060 --> 00:36:40,670
RESHMA TRANSLATES
612
00:36:45,460 --> 00:36:47,870
He says,
"As long as the world exists."
613
00:36:55,260 --> 00:36:58,950
These dancers aren't playing
the role of gods,
614
00:36:58,980 --> 00:37:01,750
they'll be physically inhabited,
615
00:37:01,780 --> 00:37:04,910
possessed by the deities themselves.
616
00:37:13,660 --> 00:37:17,950
In this case a much-loved
local goddess.
617
00:37:19,260 --> 00:37:21,590
DRUMBEAT INTENSIFIES
618
00:37:29,220 --> 00:37:32,070
The drummers are unbelievable.
619
00:37:32,100 --> 00:37:34,470
Yeah, the drummers also get into
a trance.
620
00:37:34,500 --> 00:37:37,710
Music is supposed to heal
people. Yes.
621
00:37:37,740 --> 00:37:40,030
You can feel it, can't you? Yes.
622
00:37:40,060 --> 00:37:41,950
Your heart just goes bump,
bump, bump. Definitely.
623
00:37:53,940 --> 00:37:56,630
The ceremony goes on all night,
624
00:37:56,660 --> 00:38:00,630
a staggering feat of endurance
for the spectators,
625
00:38:00,660 --> 00:38:03,190
let alone the musicians and dancers.
626
00:38:17,540 --> 00:38:19,750
PEOPLE SCREAM
627
00:38:22,460 --> 00:38:24,750
And when it's finally over,
628
00:38:24,780 --> 00:38:28,670
the entire community is brought
together before the goddess,
629
00:38:28,700 --> 00:38:32,230
who sometimes speaks through
the body of the dancer.
630
00:38:32,260 --> 00:38:33,750
HE INCANTS
631
00:38:50,420 --> 00:38:52,670
Are you happy?
I'm very happy, I'm very happy.
632
00:38:59,740 --> 00:39:02,630
I wasn't expecting a blessing,
what a lovely thing.
633
00:39:02,660 --> 00:39:04,270
It's an overwhelming experience.
634
00:39:04,300 --> 00:39:07,870
Reshma, thank you so much for
bringing me here. It was fantastic.
635
00:39:07,900 --> 00:39:11,630
An incredible thing to experience
this, because it's like the sort of
636
00:39:11,660 --> 00:39:14,950
boundaries between past and present
have completely dissolved
637
00:39:14,980 --> 00:39:18,270
the boundaries between the
human and the divine.
638
00:39:30,540 --> 00:39:33,870
After the thrill of
the night I'm back on the road,
639
00:39:33,900 --> 00:39:37,670
exploring another fragment
of living history,
640
00:39:37,700 --> 00:39:39,470
which, like the Theyyattam,
641
00:39:39,500 --> 00:39:43,270
has roots reaching back to
the Stone Age.
642
00:39:43,300 --> 00:39:47,030
{\i1}So, I'm traveling into
Kerala's backwaters,{\i0}
643
00:39:47,060 --> 00:39:49,910
560 miles of lagoons,
644
00:39:49,940 --> 00:39:52,230
lakes, rivers and canals,
645
00:39:52,260 --> 00:39:55,190
which have long drawn traders from
around the world.
646
00:39:58,180 --> 00:40:02,030
The most precious commodity traded
here was spices,
647
00:40:02,060 --> 00:40:06,870
and we know that that trade
stretches back over 5,000 years.
648
00:40:12,180 --> 00:40:15,470
Now, our evidence are tablets from
Sumeria
649
00:40:15,500 --> 00:40:18,870
in the Middle East that date back
to 3000 BCE,
650
00:40:18,900 --> 00:40:22,350
and they describe Kerala as
the garden of spices,
651
00:40:22,380 --> 00:40:24,670
and those spices would be
transported
652
00:40:24,700 --> 00:40:26,710
on boats pretty much like this.
653
00:40:26,740 --> 00:40:29,990
Hi, is it OK to come on?
Thank you. Thank you.
654
00:40:34,140 --> 00:40:36,190
These are Kettuvallams,
655
00:40:36,220 --> 00:40:39,790
literally tied boats made
from bamboo
656
00:40:39,820 --> 00:40:42,110
and planks of jackwood tied
together
657
00:40:42,140 --> 00:40:43,950
with coconut fibre ropes
658
00:40:43,980 --> 00:40:48,310
and painted in pitch produced from
boiling cashew nut shells.
659
00:40:48,340 --> 00:40:50,150
They're unique to Kerala.
660
00:40:52,580 --> 00:40:54,870
I've always wanted to come because
661
00:40:54,900 --> 00:40:58,510
there's this sort of fabled port
called Muziris,
662
00:40:58,540 --> 00:41:00,950
which crops up in the Roman sources,
663
00:41:00,980 --> 00:41:03,790
and the author, Pliny The Elder,
writes about it,
664
00:41:03,820 --> 00:41:06,670
and he says it was
the "Emporium of India."
665
00:41:06,700 --> 00:41:09,230
And we never really knew exactly
where it was,
666
00:41:09,260 --> 00:41:11,670
but recently they discovered
Roman coins
667
00:41:11,700 --> 00:41:14,670
and Roman jewellery,
and amphorae here,
668
00:41:14,700 --> 00:41:17,550
so we know that the Romans were here.
669
00:41:17,580 --> 00:41:19,110
And it gets even better,
670
00:41:19,140 --> 00:41:22,510
because we actually hear about
the Romans from Tamil sources,
671
00:41:22,540 --> 00:41:26,910
so they describe them arriving
in large, beautiful boats,
672
00:41:26,940 --> 00:41:30,950
packed with gold and cool,
fragrant wine,
673
00:41:30,980 --> 00:41:33,510
which they traded for pepper.
674
00:41:37,700 --> 00:41:40,190
Waves of visitors and
settlers have shaped
675
00:41:40,220 --> 00:41:44,150
and fed into Kerala's vital mix
of cultures and faiths,
676
00:41:44,180 --> 00:41:46,710
and to its amazing cuisine.
677
00:41:47,860 --> 00:41:50,670
So these are just some of the spices,
I mean, we're familiar with these,
678
00:41:50,700 --> 00:41:56,350
so cardamom and clove and pepper,
which was described as black gold.
679
00:41:56,380 --> 00:41:59,790
And the brilliant thing about spices
is their name,
680
00:41:59,820 --> 00:42:04,230
so it comes from the Latin species,
which meant something
681
00:42:04,260 --> 00:42:07,190
that was traded that was
of particular value.
682
00:42:07,220 --> 00:42:10,870
So, spices are literally special.
683
00:42:14,660 --> 00:42:19,150
The ship's cook, Rahul, uses some of
Malabar's aromatic treasures
684
00:42:19,180 --> 00:42:21,510
to whip up a quick lunch
for the team.
685
00:42:25,500 --> 00:42:29,190
While Tanya Abraham comes
to share her expertise
686
00:42:29,220 --> 00:42:31,790
on the cultural influence of spices.
687
00:42:35,020 --> 00:42:38,270
It's so abundant here. I mean, what
you're just sort of surrounded by
688
00:42:38,300 --> 00:42:40,110
with this beautiful flock of
birds just going past,
689
00:42:40,140 --> 00:42:41,390
and the coconut palms.
690
00:42:41,420 --> 00:42:44,750
You can just sort of feel
the fertility oozing
691
00:42:44,780 --> 00:42:46,310
out of the land here. Yes.
692
00:42:46,340 --> 00:42:50,190
Absolutely. The main reason
we have such
693
00:42:50,220 --> 00:42:54,790
an eclectic cultural make up
in Kerala
694
00:42:54,820 --> 00:42:59,110
is because of the trade that we've
had over centuries.
695
00:43:02,540 --> 00:43:05,390
Jewish, Christian and
Arab populations
696
00:43:05,420 --> 00:43:08,270
all made Kerala their home.
697
00:43:08,300 --> 00:43:12,230
It was the spice trade that first
brought Arab Muslims
698
00:43:12,260 --> 00:43:13,710
and Islam to India.
699
00:43:13,740 --> 00:43:17,150
Arab traders took Indian spices
to East Africa,
700
00:43:17,180 --> 00:43:19,550
Western Asia and the Mediterranean.
701
00:43:19,580 --> 00:43:22,990
And then European colonial empires
extended those routes
702
00:43:23,020 --> 00:43:24,230
to the Americas.
703
00:43:26,180 --> 00:43:28,750
The Portuguese brought chillies from
South America,
704
00:43:28,780 --> 00:43:31,310
and chillies have become such
an important ingredient
705
00:43:31,340 --> 00:43:32,910
in our cooking today.
706
00:43:32,940 --> 00:43:34,590
It is an incredible fact that,
707
00:43:34,620 --> 00:43:38,150
because I think people always
associate chilli with India,
708
00:43:38,180 --> 00:43:39,950
and particularly with southern India.
709
00:43:39,980 --> 00:43:42,270
They don't think of it as an import.
710
00:43:42,300 --> 00:43:45,790
The spice trade has had
huge, huge impact here.
711
00:43:45,820 --> 00:43:47,430
This is who we are.
712
00:43:47,460 --> 00:43:50,190
I mean, I can't imagine Kerala
without spices,
713
00:43:50,220 --> 00:43:52,550
I can't imagine our food
without spices,
714
00:43:52,580 --> 00:43:54,990
I can't imagine relationships
without spices.
715
00:43:55,020 --> 00:43:57,310
It's the soul of the land.
716
00:43:57,340 --> 00:44:00,550
And it shows how just ecology
and nature
717
00:44:00,580 --> 00:44:04,950
and the natural world really
impacts human history.
718
00:44:04,980 --> 00:44:07,870
We wouldn't have this history,
we wouldn't have these cultures,
719
00:44:07,900 --> 00:44:09,750
we wouldn't have these religions.
720
00:44:09,780 --> 00:44:12,710
We wouldn't have such harmony
between the people
721
00:44:12,740 --> 00:44:14,950
if it was not for the spice trade.
722
00:44:24,700 --> 00:44:29,510
The Malabar Coast of Kerala is
a treasure and a wonder
723
00:44:29,540 --> 00:44:33,910
because it's the most brilliant
example of how really specialised,
724
00:44:33,940 --> 00:44:37,070
unique environments can impact,
not just on local,
725
00:44:37,100 --> 00:44:39,710
but on global culture.
726
00:44:39,740 --> 00:44:44,310
The profusion of plenty and
bounty here has generated
727
00:44:44,340 --> 00:44:47,150
really remarkable home-grown
traditions,
728
00:44:47,180 --> 00:44:52,350
but has also tempted in traders and
invaders across the centuries,
729
00:44:52,380 --> 00:44:54,910
who brought their own customs
that are now
730
00:44:54,940 --> 00:45:01,790
a part of India's rich, diverse,
incredibly varied cultural ecology.
731
00:45:08,900 --> 00:45:13,270
I'm extraordinarily lucky that
so many south Indians -
732
00:45:13,300 --> 00:45:19,950
buffalo herders and pilgrims,
historians and artists -
733
00:45:19,980 --> 00:45:24,270
have offered to share their
treasure-filled heritage with me.
734
00:45:26,260 --> 00:45:29,910
Because India is a
cradle of civilisations
735
00:45:29,940 --> 00:45:32,710
and a cauldron of the
human experience.
736
00:45:33,980 --> 00:45:36,430
This is somewhere that
the millennia has helped
737
00:45:36,460 --> 00:45:39,230
to ferment ideas and innovations.
738
00:45:40,460 --> 00:45:44,790
Currents of culture that have merged
to create a wide
739
00:45:44,820 --> 00:45:48,470
and wonderful river of history,
740
00:45:48,500 --> 00:45:54,070
a river that nourishes India itself
and many others beyond.
741
00:46:02,540 --> 00:46:06,510
I spoke to the Open University about
our exploration of India.
742
00:46:06,540 --> 00:46:10,350
To watch this exclusive interview
and to discover more about past
743
00:46:10,380 --> 00:46:14,910
and present global cultures, go to
the Open University's website.
744
00:46:26,700 --> 00:46:31,470
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