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1
00:00:02,714 --> 00:00:04,714
This place is almost
too beautiful for words...
2
00:00:04,754 --> 00:00:05,154
This place is almost
too beautiful for words...
3
00:00:06,274 --> 00:00:08,274
..and it's as old as time.
4
00:00:08,314 --> 00:00:08,394
..and it's as old as time.
5
00:00:08,434 --> 00:00:10,434
It's the land of my birth,
and it's very dear to my heart.
6
00:00:10,474 --> 00:00:11,874
It's the land of my birth,
and it's very dear to my heart.
7
00:00:11,914 --> 00:00:13,914
And on my journey to uncover
the mysteries of the Spice Trail,
8
00:00:13,954 --> 00:00:15,594
And on my journey to uncover
the mysteries of the Spice Trail,
9
00:00:15,634 --> 00:00:17,634
when I hear the words turmeric,
cardamom, cumin, ginger,
10
00:00:17,674 --> 00:00:19,674
when I hear the words turmeric,
cardamom, cumin, ginger,
11
00:00:19,714 --> 00:00:19,994
when I hear the words turmeric,
cardamom, cumin, ginger,
12
00:00:20,034 --> 00:00:21,754
my mind flies to this country,
13
00:00:21,794 --> 00:00:23,794
surely the most famous of all
for its spices.
14
00:00:23,834 --> 00:00:25,114
surely the most famous of all
for its spices.
15
00:00:25,154 --> 00:00:27,154
Welcome to India.
16
00:00:27,194 --> 00:00:28,274
Welcome to India.
17
00:00:34,274 --> 00:00:36,274
'I'm on the second leg
of my most fascinating adventure,
18
00:00:36,314 --> 00:00:38,234
'I'm on the second leg
of my most fascinating adventure,
19
00:00:38,274 --> 00:00:40,274
'retracing the legendary voyages
of the Spice Trail.'
20
00:00:40,314 --> 00:00:42,034
'retracing the legendary voyages
of the Spice Trail.'
21
00:00:44,314 --> 00:00:46,314
Oh, it's fantastic.
22
00:00:46,354 --> 00:00:46,714
Oh, it's fantastic.
23
00:00:47,754 --> 00:00:49,754
'This is more than just
a journey through the senses...'
24
00:00:49,794 --> 00:00:51,234
'This is more than just
a journey through the senses...'
25
00:00:51,274 --> 00:00:53,274
This is where I'm supposed to say,
"Don't try this at home."
26
00:00:53,314 --> 00:00:54,554
This is where I'm supposed to say,
"Don't try this at home."
27
00:00:54,594 --> 00:00:56,394
SHOUTING
28
00:00:56,434 --> 00:00:58,434
'..it is a story of exploration...'
29
00:00:58,474 --> 00:00:59,034
'..it is a story of exploration...'
30
00:00:59,074 --> 00:01:01,074
This is kind of Queen of Sheba
travelling, really.
31
00:01:01,114 --> 00:01:01,794
This is kind of Queen of Sheba
travelling, really.
32
00:01:01,834 --> 00:01:03,834
'..and of the human desire
to connect.'
33
00:01:03,874 --> 00:01:04,194
'..and of the human desire
to connect.'
34
00:01:04,234 --> 00:01:05,714
THEY CHANT
35
00:01:07,154 --> 00:01:08,874
THEY SHOUT
36
00:01:08,914 --> 00:01:10,914
'I began in the far flung
Banda Islands in Indonesia,
37
00:01:10,954 --> 00:01:12,954
'I began in the far flung
Banda Islands in Indonesia,
38
00:01:12,994 --> 00:01:13,314
'I began in the far flung
Banda Islands in Indonesia,
39
00:01:13,354 --> 00:01:15,354
'once the only place on Earth
which grew the exotic nutmeg.'
40
00:01:15,394 --> 00:01:17,154
'once the only place on Earth
which grew the exotic nutmeg.'
41
00:01:17,194 --> 00:01:19,194
Looks like something from Alien.
Look at that.
42
00:01:19,234 --> 00:01:19,754
Looks like something from Alien.
Look at that.
43
00:01:19,794 --> 00:01:20,954
Wow.
44
00:01:20,994 --> 00:01:22,994
'I'll be meeting
the vanilla hustlers...'
45
00:01:23,034 --> 00:01:24,194
'I'll be meeting
the vanilla hustlers...'
46
00:01:24,234 --> 00:01:26,234
So, it's OK? Know when to hold 'em,
know when to fold 'em.
47
00:01:26,274 --> 00:01:26,634
So, it's OK? Know when to hold 'em,
know when to fold 'em.
48
00:01:26,674 --> 00:01:28,674
'..of Madagascar,
49
00:01:28,714 --> 00:01:28,954
'..of Madagascar,
50
00:01:28,994 --> 00:01:30,994
'before ending my journey in
the lost civilisations of Jordan...'
51
00:01:31,034 --> 00:01:32,994
'before ending my journey in
the lost civilisations of Jordan...'
52
00:01:33,034 --> 00:01:34,634
Petra!
53
00:01:34,674 --> 00:01:36,674
'..via the fabled island
of Zanzibar.'
54
00:01:36,714 --> 00:01:37,314
'..via the fabled island
of Zanzibar.'
55
00:01:37,354 --> 00:01:39,354
That makes me feel very weepy.
56
00:01:39,394 --> 00:01:39,714
That makes me feel very weepy.
57
00:01:41,034 --> 00:01:43,034
'But now I'm travelling to the
mystical lands of southern India...
58
00:01:43,074 --> 00:01:45,074
'But now I'm travelling to the
mystical lands of southern India...
59
00:01:45,114 --> 00:01:45,594
'But now I'm travelling to the
mystical lands of southern India...
60
00:01:47,234 --> 00:01:49,234
'..where I'll be discovering how
spices have woven through landscapes
61
00:01:49,274 --> 00:01:50,634
'..where I'll be discovering how
spices have woven through landscapes
62
00:01:50,674 --> 00:01:52,674
'and people throughout time.'
63
00:01:52,714 --> 00:01:52,914
'and people throughout time.'
64
00:01:52,954 --> 00:01:54,154
Whoa!
65
00:01:57,754 --> 00:01:59,314
Oof!
66
00:01:59,354 --> 00:02:01,354
'So, come with me
as I follow a wondrous trail
67
00:02:01,394 --> 00:02:02,834
'So, come with me
as I follow a wondrous trail
68
00:02:02,874 --> 00:02:04,874
'that literally shaped our world.'
69
00:02:04,914 --> 00:02:05,034
'that literally shaped our world.'
70
00:02:14,194 --> 00:02:16,194
This is my first time
in the medieval city of Hampi.
71
00:02:16,234 --> 00:02:17,594
This is my first time
in the medieval city of Hampi.
72
00:02:19,674 --> 00:02:21,514
And in the heart of southern India,
73
00:02:21,554 --> 00:02:23,554
I'll be going across
to the coast of Goa
74
00:02:23,594 --> 00:02:24,354
I'll be going across
to the coast of Goa
75
00:02:24,394 --> 00:02:26,394
and then down
to the lush backwaters of Kerala.
76
00:02:26,434 --> 00:02:27,074
and then down
to the lush backwaters of Kerala.
77
00:02:28,674 --> 00:02:30,674
Five hundred years ago,
this was one of the richest
78
00:02:30,714 --> 00:02:32,034
Five hundred years ago,
this was one of the richest
79
00:02:32,074 --> 00:02:34,074
and most important trading cities
on Earth.
80
00:02:34,114 --> 00:02:35,194
and most important trading cities
on Earth.
81
00:02:35,234 --> 00:02:37,234
A lot of it was carved from
extraordinary granite formations -
82
00:02:37,274 --> 00:02:38,754
A lot of it was carved from
extraordinary granite formations -
83
00:02:38,794 --> 00:02:40,794
they're definitely worth
a closer look.
84
00:02:40,834 --> 00:02:41,394
they're definitely worth
a closer look.
85
00:02:42,914 --> 00:02:44,914
Shinu, look. Oh!
86
00:02:44,954 --> 00:02:45,514
Shinu, look. Oh!
87
00:02:45,554 --> 00:02:47,554
SHE GASPS
This is beautiful.
88
00:02:47,594 --> 00:02:48,034
SHE GASPS
This is beautiful.
89
00:02:48,074 --> 00:02:50,074
'These coracles have been around
for over 2,000 years.
90
00:02:50,114 --> 00:02:51,554
'These coracles have been around
for over 2,000 years.
91
00:02:51,594 --> 00:02:53,594
{\an8}'They've been used on these waters,
transporting spices, cargo,
92
00:02:53,634 --> 00:02:55,634
{\an8}'They've been used on these waters,
transporting spices, cargo,
93
00:02:55,674 --> 00:02:55,794
{\an8}'They've been used on these waters,
transporting spices, cargo,
94
00:02:55,834 --> 00:02:57,834
{\an8}'and, of course, some passengers.'
95
00:02:57,874 --> 00:02:59,874
Shinu, do you have to be strong
to do this?
96
00:02:59,914 --> 00:03:01,074
Shinu, do you have to be strong
to do this?
97
00:03:01,114 --> 00:03:03,114
Yeah. Yeah, very strong.
98
00:03:03,154 --> 00:03:03,234
Yeah. Yeah, very strong.
99
00:03:03,274 --> 00:03:04,594
The stomach, no coming.
100
00:03:04,634 --> 00:03:06,634
No, flat!
Yeah, flat.
101
00:03:06,674 --> 00:03:06,794
No, flat!
Yeah, flat.
102
00:03:06,834 --> 00:03:08,834
Shinu, they're so smooth,
these rocks.
103
00:03:08,874 --> 00:03:09,914
Shinu, they're so smooth,
these rocks.
104
00:03:09,954 --> 00:03:11,954
This is the weather, isn't it?
Yeah.
105
00:03:11,994 --> 00:03:12,354
This is the weather, isn't it?
Yeah.
106
00:03:12,394 --> 00:03:14,394
When the world
was virtually covered with water,
107
00:03:14,434 --> 00:03:15,554
When the world
was virtually covered with water,
108
00:03:15,594 --> 00:03:17,594
this little bit was sticking up
2.5 billion years ago,
109
00:03:17,634 --> 00:03:19,034
this little bit was sticking up
2.5 billion years ago,
110
00:03:19,074 --> 00:03:21,074
with the rain and the wind whipping,
whipping away
111
00:03:21,114 --> 00:03:21,754
with the rain and the wind whipping,
whipping away
112
00:03:21,794 --> 00:03:23,794
and finding underneath it
the bare granite bones,
113
00:03:23,834 --> 00:03:24,874
and finding underneath it
the bare granite bones,
114
00:03:24,914 --> 00:03:26,914
leaving these
implausible decorations.
115
00:03:26,954 --> 00:03:27,914
leaving these
implausible decorations.
116
00:03:27,954 --> 00:03:29,954
Some of them balanced,
some of them just wedged in,
117
00:03:29,994 --> 00:03:31,394
Some of them balanced,
some of them just wedged in,
118
00:03:31,434 --> 00:03:33,434
some of them shaped
into all kinds of dream shapes.
119
00:03:33,474 --> 00:03:35,034
some of them shaped
into all kinds of dream shapes.
120
00:03:35,074 --> 00:03:37,074
I've seen otters swimming,
coming to get their fish,
121
00:03:37,114 --> 00:03:38,474
I've seen otters swimming,
coming to get their fish,
122
00:03:38,514 --> 00:03:40,514
the monkeys alive
in the hills around here,
123
00:03:40,554 --> 00:03:40,754
the monkeys alive
in the hills around here,
124
00:03:40,794 --> 00:03:42,434
then this great peace.
125
00:03:50,634 --> 00:03:52,634
JOANNA GASPS
Whoa!
126
00:03:52,674 --> 00:03:53,394
JOANNA GASPS
Whoa!
127
00:03:53,434 --> 00:03:55,434
Wow, that was a jump.
128
00:03:55,474 --> 00:03:55,554
Wow, that was a jump.
129
00:03:55,594 --> 00:03:57,594
Shinu, how far is that?
How high is that?
130
00:03:57,634 --> 00:03:57,994
Shinu, how far is that?
How high is that?
131
00:03:58,034 --> 00:03:59,834
Seven metre.
Seven metres?!
132
00:03:59,874 --> 00:04:01,874
Yeah.
JOANNA LAUGHS
133
00:04:01,914 --> 00:04:03,914
SHE ATTEMPTS
LOCAL LANGUAGE
134
00:04:03,954 --> 00:04:04,354
SHE ATTEMPTS
LOCAL LANGUAGE
135
00:04:04,394 --> 00:04:05,514
Gosh.
136
00:04:06,634 --> 00:04:08,634
And just a few miles away
from this lake
137
00:04:08,674 --> 00:04:09,594
And just a few miles away
from this lake
138
00:04:09,634 --> 00:04:11,634
is the old city of Hampi itself,
139
00:04:11,674 --> 00:04:12,114
is the old city of Hampi itself,
140
00:04:12,154 --> 00:04:14,154
one of the biggest
archaeological sites in the world.
141
00:04:14,194 --> 00:04:16,194
one of the biggest
archaeological sites in the world.
142
00:04:16,234 --> 00:04:16,354
one of the biggest
archaeological sites in the world.
143
00:04:21,234 --> 00:04:23,234
Do you know, it's incredible
to believe that 500 years ago,
144
00:04:23,274 --> 00:04:25,234
Do you know, it's incredible
to believe that 500 years ago,
145
00:04:25,274 --> 00:04:27,274
this was a huge,
bustling metropolis.
146
00:04:27,314 --> 00:04:27,954
this was a huge,
bustling metropolis.
147
00:04:30,834 --> 00:04:32,834
The centre of the Vijayanagara
Hindu Kingdom was colossal,
148
00:04:32,874 --> 00:04:34,834
The centre of the Vijayanagara
Hindu Kingdom was colossal,
149
00:04:34,874 --> 00:04:36,874
with half a million people
living here.
150
00:04:36,914 --> 00:04:37,794
with half a million people
living here.
151
00:04:37,834 --> 00:04:39,834
There are 1,600 monuments
and temples,
152
00:04:39,874 --> 00:04:41,874
There are 1,600 monuments
and temples,
153
00:04:41,914 --> 00:04:42,034
There are 1,600 monuments
and temples,
154
00:04:42,074 --> 00:04:43,914
but most of them
have fallen out of use
155
00:04:43,954 --> 00:04:45,954
because they're all covered
in deities,
156
00:04:45,994 --> 00:04:46,434
because they're all covered
in deities,
157
00:04:46,474 --> 00:04:48,474
and if the deities
are damaged in any way,
158
00:04:48,514 --> 00:04:48,874
and if the deities
are damaged in any way,
159
00:04:48,914 --> 00:04:50,634
they're not allowed to worship them.
160
00:04:52,234 --> 00:04:54,234
But the Virupaksha Temple
is still alive, as it were,
161
00:04:54,274 --> 00:04:55,834
But the Virupaksha Temple
is still alive, as it were,
162
00:04:55,874 --> 00:04:57,714
and is still in use.
163
00:04:59,274 --> 00:05:01,274
Absolutely staggering,
the scale of it.
164
00:05:01,314 --> 00:05:02,354
Absolutely staggering,
the scale of it.
165
00:05:02,394 --> 00:05:04,394
And at the foot of it, you can see
this phenomenal, great marketplace,
166
00:05:04,434 --> 00:05:05,714
And at the foot of it, you can see
this phenomenal, great marketplace,
167
00:05:05,754 --> 00:05:07,754
which is beginning to stretch out
right along the valley.
168
00:05:07,794 --> 00:05:09,634
which is beginning to stretch out
right along the valley.
169
00:05:09,674 --> 00:05:11,674
This is why traders came all across
India and from much further afield,
170
00:05:11,714 --> 00:05:12,914
This is why traders came all across
India and from much further afield,
171
00:05:12,954 --> 00:05:14,954
from China and Arabia,
to see what Hampi had to sell.
172
00:05:14,994 --> 00:05:16,994
from China and Arabia,
to see what Hampi had to sell.
173
00:05:17,034 --> 00:05:17,194
from China and Arabia,
to see what Hampi had to sell.
174
00:05:19,674 --> 00:05:21,674
It's said that the word "market"
comes from Hampi.
175
00:05:21,714 --> 00:05:22,994
It's said that the word "market"
comes from Hampi.
176
00:05:23,034 --> 00:05:25,034
The word "marukatte"
meant "raised platforms",
177
00:05:25,074 --> 00:05:25,634
The word "marukatte"
meant "raised platforms",
178
00:05:25,674 --> 00:05:27,674
where people could
sell their commodities,
179
00:05:27,714 --> 00:05:29,714
trading fresh vegetables
and things like that.
180
00:05:29,754 --> 00:05:31,274
But the more serious commodities
181
00:05:31,314 --> 00:05:33,314
were all in
these massive colonnades,
182
00:05:33,354 --> 00:05:33,474
were all in
these massive colonnades,
183
00:05:33,514 --> 00:05:35,514
this astonishing place.
184
00:05:35,554 --> 00:05:35,794
this astonishing place.
185
00:05:38,794 --> 00:05:40,794
In the Kannada language
of Karnataka,
186
00:05:40,834 --> 00:05:40,954
In the Kannada language
of Karnataka,
187
00:05:40,994 --> 00:05:42,994
"marukatte" means "market"
and it does in our lives, too.
188
00:05:43,034 --> 00:05:44,314
"marukatte" means "market"
and it does in our lives, too.
189
00:05:44,354 --> 00:05:46,354
All the people came from far and
wide, and they went back and said,
190
00:05:46,394 --> 00:05:46,914
All the people came from far and
wide, and they went back and said,
191
00:05:46,954 --> 00:05:48,954
"Mar... moraka... mar...
market, market, market.
192
00:05:48,994 --> 00:05:50,314
"Mar... moraka... mar...
market, market, market.
193
00:05:50,354 --> 00:05:52,034
"I went to the market, actually,
194
00:05:52,074 --> 00:05:54,074
"and got these fabulous diamonds
for you, sweetheart."
195
00:05:54,114 --> 00:05:54,394
"and got these fabulous diamonds
for you, sweetheart."
196
00:05:56,154 --> 00:05:57,874
SHE CHUCKLES
197
00:05:57,914 --> 00:05:59,914
Notice I've said diamonds
and not cardamom or spices.
198
00:05:59,954 --> 00:06:00,834
Notice I've said diamonds
and not cardamom or spices.
199
00:06:01,994 --> 00:06:03,994
It's rather lovely to see
the monkeys have got here now.
200
00:06:04,034 --> 00:06:04,594
It's rather lovely to see
the monkeys have got here now.
201
00:06:04,634 --> 00:06:05,914
The monkeys are called "koti".
202
00:06:07,234 --> 00:06:09,234
There are about 50 million monkeys
in India,
203
00:06:09,274 --> 00:06:10,634
There are about 50 million monkeys
in India,
204
00:06:10,674 --> 00:06:12,674
and the cheeky little rascals
seem to get everywhere.
205
00:06:12,714 --> 00:06:13,594
and the cheeky little rascals
seem to get everywhere.
206
00:06:13,634 --> 00:06:14,714
This is, erm...
207
00:06:14,754 --> 00:06:16,754
This is the crew van
keeping all their equipment.
208
00:06:16,794 --> 00:06:17,994
This is the crew van
keeping all their equipment.
209
00:06:18,034 --> 00:06:20,034
They're adorable, but if you
leave a window open, in they go.
210
00:06:20,074 --> 00:06:22,074
They're adorable, but if you
leave a window open, in they go.
211
00:06:22,114 --> 00:06:22,474
They're adorable, but if you
leave a window open, in they go.
212
00:06:22,514 --> 00:06:24,394
JOANNA LAUGHS
213
00:06:24,434 --> 00:06:26,434
Off you go. Off you go, go on.
214
00:06:26,474 --> 00:06:27,154
Off you go. Off you go, go on.
215
00:06:28,954 --> 00:06:30,954
The Vijayanagara Kingdom was in its
fullest glory in the early 1500s,
216
00:06:30,994 --> 00:06:32,994
The Vijayanagara Kingdom was in its
fullest glory in the early 1500s,
217
00:06:33,034 --> 00:06:33,514
The Vijayanagara Kingdom was in its
fullest glory in the early 1500s,
218
00:06:33,554 --> 00:06:35,554
and that's when its
most impressive temple was built.
219
00:06:35,594 --> 00:06:36,674
and that's when its
most impressive temple was built.
220
00:06:38,314 --> 00:06:40,314
Sharada Srinivasan
is an archaeologist
221
00:06:40,354 --> 00:06:41,554
Sharada Srinivasan
is an archaeologist
222
00:06:41,594 --> 00:06:43,594
and classical Indian dance expert.
223
00:06:43,634 --> 00:06:43,994
and classical Indian dance expert.
224
00:06:45,714 --> 00:06:47,714
Hi, Joanna.
How lovely to meet you, my dear one.
225
00:06:47,754 --> 00:06:48,194
Hi, Joanna.
How lovely to meet you, my dear one.
226
00:06:48,234 --> 00:06:50,234
This is quite spectacular.
227
00:06:50,274 --> 00:06:51,034
This is quite spectacular.
228
00:06:51,074 --> 00:06:53,074
Well, the Vittala Temple is,
in a way,
229
00:06:53,114 --> 00:06:53,274
Well, the Vittala Temple is,
in a way,
230
00:06:53,314 --> 00:06:55,314
the most spectacular monument
here at Hampi.
231
00:06:55,354 --> 00:06:56,994
the most spectacular monument
here at Hampi.
232
00:06:57,034 --> 00:06:59,034
This was when Hampi
was at its great powers, wasn't it?
233
00:06:59,074 --> 00:06:59,394
This was when Hampi
was at its great powers, wasn't it?
234
00:06:59,434 --> 00:07:00,514
Yes.
235
00:07:00,554 --> 00:07:02,554
What makes this particular monument
quite unique, really,
236
00:07:02,594 --> 00:07:03,314
What makes this particular monument
quite unique, really,
237
00:07:03,354 --> 00:07:05,354
is certain thinner sections
of this granite give off tonalities.
238
00:07:05,394 --> 00:07:07,034
is certain thinner sections
of this granite give off tonalities.
239
00:07:07,074 --> 00:07:08,674
What do you mean, if you...
Yes.
240
00:07:08,714 --> 00:07:10,594
..it makes a different
sort of sound?Yes.
241
00:07:10,634 --> 00:07:12,634
They each give off these sounds
of the Indian musical scale,
242
00:07:12,674 --> 00:07:14,594
They each give off these sounds
of the Indian musical scale,
243
00:07:14,634 --> 00:07:15,754
you know, going...
244
00:07:15,794 --> 00:07:17,794
SINGS INDIAN
MUSICAL SCALE
245
00:07:17,834 --> 00:07:18,434
SINGS INDIAN
MUSICAL SCALE
246
00:07:18,474 --> 00:07:20,474
PILLAR CHIMES
247
00:07:20,514 --> 00:07:21,274
PILLAR CHIMES
248
00:07:28,674 --> 00:07:30,674
'The different sections of pillars
give a range of instrumental tones,
249
00:07:30,714 --> 00:07:32,714
'The different sections of pillars
give a range of instrumental tones,
250
00:07:32,754 --> 00:07:32,874
'The different sections of pillars
give a range of instrumental tones,
251
00:07:32,914 --> 00:07:34,914
'such as strings,
percussion and woodwind...
252
00:07:34,954 --> 00:07:35,514
'such as strings,
percussion and woodwind...
253
00:07:37,234 --> 00:07:39,234
'..and how they achieved this
still baffles scientists today.'
254
00:07:39,274 --> 00:07:41,274
'..and how they achieved this
still baffles scientists today.'
255
00:07:41,314 --> 00:07:41,514
'..and how they achieved this
still baffles scientists today.'
256
00:07:41,554 --> 00:07:43,554
You know, in every one of the
sculptures are stylised as postures,
257
00:07:43,594 --> 00:07:45,514
You know, in every one of the
sculptures are stylised as postures,
258
00:07:45,554 --> 00:07:47,554
which, according to the chroniclers,
they were wearing diamonds and topaz
259
00:07:47,594 --> 00:07:49,594
which, according to the chroniclers,
they were wearing diamonds and topaz
260
00:07:49,634 --> 00:07:49,754
which, according to the chroniclers,
they were wearing diamonds and topaz
261
00:07:49,794 --> 00:07:51,794
and agate and these silk saris.
262
00:07:51,834 --> 00:07:51,914
and agate and these silk saris.
263
00:07:51,954 --> 00:07:53,514
They were all mesmerised.
264
00:07:53,554 --> 00:07:55,554
These hubs, like Hampi,
is where everybody came,
265
00:07:55,594 --> 00:07:57,194
These hubs, like Hampi,
is where everybody came,
266
00:07:57,234 --> 00:07:58,754
bringing what they'd got...
267
00:07:58,794 --> 00:08:00,794
Yes.
..and trading it and swapping it.
268
00:08:00,834 --> 00:08:00,954
Yes.
..and trading it and swapping it.
269
00:08:01,914 --> 00:08:03,914
The Vijayanagara rulers
were getting the horses
270
00:08:03,954 --> 00:08:04,554
The Vijayanagara rulers
were getting the horses
271
00:08:04,594 --> 00:08:06,554
from the Arabs
and the Central Asians,
272
00:08:06,594 --> 00:08:08,594
and those were also in exchange
for the spices.
273
00:08:08,634 --> 00:08:09,354
and those were also in exchange
for the spices.
274
00:08:09,394 --> 00:08:11,394
So horses for spices.
SHARADA LAUGHS
275
00:08:11,434 --> 00:08:11,634
So horses for spices.
SHARADA LAUGHS
276
00:08:11,674 --> 00:08:13,674
I mean, I think it would be unkind
to say that in Britain, at the time,
277
00:08:13,714 --> 00:08:14,714
I mean, I think it would be unkind
to say that in Britain, at the time,
278
00:08:14,754 --> 00:08:16,754
we were eating boiled beef
and carrots.
279
00:08:16,794 --> 00:08:17,034
we were eating boiled beef
and carrots.
280
00:08:17,074 --> 00:08:19,074
But... But food was
pretty unpleasant without spices.
281
00:08:19,114 --> 00:08:20,114
But... But food was
pretty unpleasant without spices.
282
00:08:20,154 --> 00:08:22,154
And once spices came, things like
cardamom, turmeric, cumin, ginger,
283
00:08:22,194 --> 00:08:24,194
And once spices came, things like
cardamom, turmeric, cumin, ginger,
284
00:08:24,234 --> 00:08:25,994
And once spices came, things like
cardamom, turmeric, cumin, ginger,
285
00:08:26,034 --> 00:08:28,034
these were just
the food of the gods.
286
00:08:28,074 --> 00:08:28,474
these were just
the food of the gods.
287
00:08:32,994 --> 00:08:34,994
Hampi may no longer be
a global trading metropolis,
288
00:08:35,034 --> 00:08:36,594
Hampi may no longer be
a global trading metropolis,
289
00:08:36,634 --> 00:08:38,634
but still a couple of thousand
people live here...
290
00:08:38,674 --> 00:08:39,474
but still a couple of thousand
people live here...
291
00:08:41,634 --> 00:08:43,634
..and I'm up early the next morning
to meet someone who was born here
292
00:08:43,674 --> 00:08:45,674
..and I'm up early the next morning
to meet someone who was born here
293
00:08:45,714 --> 00:08:45,834
..and I'm up early the next morning
to meet someone who was born here
294
00:08:45,874 --> 00:08:47,874
and takes full advantage of these
extraordinary surroundings.
295
00:08:47,914 --> 00:08:49,394
and takes full advantage of these
extraordinary surroundings.
296
00:08:51,354 --> 00:08:52,914
I'm Joanna.
297
00:08:52,954 --> 00:08:54,954
It's so good to meet you.
Good to meet you. I'm Sunny.
298
00:08:54,994 --> 00:08:55,114
It's so good to meet you.
Good to meet you. I'm Sunny.
299
00:08:55,154 --> 00:08:57,154
Oh, Sunny, well, what a place
we're in. Which one are you...
300
00:08:57,194 --> 00:08:57,874
Oh, Sunny, well, what a place
we're in. Which one are you...
301
00:08:57,914 --> 00:08:59,914
Which one are you going to climb?
Just that boulder.
302
00:08:59,954 --> 00:09:00,074
Which one are you going to climb?
Just that boulder.
303
00:09:00,114 --> 00:09:01,354
Let's go walk, I'll show you up.
304
00:09:01,394 --> 00:09:03,394
But there's no way up it.
What are you doing?
305
00:09:03,434 --> 00:09:04,314
But there's no way up it.
What are you doing?
306
00:09:04,354 --> 00:09:06,354
So, we're gonna be climbing
with small crimps.
307
00:09:06,394 --> 00:09:06,514
So, we're gonna be climbing
with small crimps.
308
00:09:06,554 --> 00:09:08,554
One of your fingertips
are gonna be touching. Yeah.
309
00:09:08,594 --> 00:09:09,114
One of your fingertips
are gonna be touching. Yeah.
310
00:09:09,154 --> 00:09:11,154
Like, just using your skin,
like this. Just that, OK.
311
00:09:11,194 --> 00:09:11,514
Like, just using your skin,
like this. Just that, OK.
312
00:09:11,554 --> 00:09:13,554
You just can lock it like that.
Lock it like that?Yeah.
313
00:09:13,594 --> 00:09:13,794
You just can lock it like that.
Lock it like that?Yeah.
314
00:09:13,834 --> 00:09:15,834
This is unbelievably scritchy
and scratchy,
315
00:09:15,874 --> 00:09:16,674
This is unbelievably scritchy
and scratchy,
316
00:09:16,714 --> 00:09:18,154
just using tips like that.
317
00:09:18,194 --> 00:09:19,794
Like, almost like tips,
you can see...
318
00:09:19,834 --> 00:09:21,354
Almost like that. OK, OK.
319
00:09:21,394 --> 00:09:23,394
So, now take your thumb over here.
OK, there.
320
00:09:23,434 --> 00:09:23,594
So, now take your thumb over here.
OK, there.
321
00:09:23,634 --> 00:09:25,154
So you're gonna be feeling
that rock.
322
00:09:25,194 --> 00:09:27,194
Yeah, very good. That's... Whoa.
323
00:09:27,234 --> 00:09:27,714
Yeah, very good. That's... Whoa.
324
00:09:27,754 --> 00:09:29,674
And taking your right foot
and left foot,
325
00:09:29,714 --> 00:09:31,714
and taking your left hand up
and locking it.
326
00:09:31,754 --> 00:09:33,314
and taking your left hand up
and locking it.
327
00:09:33,354 --> 00:09:35,354
And lift it up, and right foot.
328
00:09:35,394 --> 00:09:36,034
And lift it up, and right foot.
329
00:09:36,074 --> 00:09:38,074
And then,
when there is three bodies fixed,
330
00:09:38,114 --> 00:09:39,274
And then,
when there is three bodies fixed,
331
00:09:39,314 --> 00:09:41,314
then only can reach
the fourth one back.
332
00:09:41,354 --> 00:09:41,674
then only can reach
the fourth one back.
333
00:09:41,714 --> 00:09:43,274
OK.
It's triangle power.
334
00:09:43,314 --> 00:09:45,314
Then I stand up,
I move the other leg.
335
00:09:45,354 --> 00:09:45,874
Then I stand up,
I move the other leg.
336
00:09:45,914 --> 00:09:46,954
Yes.
Triangles.
337
00:09:46,994 --> 00:09:47,994
Yes.
338
00:09:48,034 --> 00:09:50,034
And you're going to be placing
your feet and standing on it.
339
00:09:50,074 --> 00:09:50,674
And you're going to be placing
your feet and standing on it.
340
00:09:53,114 --> 00:09:54,394
Going up.
341
00:10:03,554 --> 00:10:04,994
JOANNA LAUGHS
It's my paradise.
342
00:10:05,034 --> 00:10:06,474
SUNNY LAUGHS
Monkey paradise.
343
00:10:06,514 --> 00:10:08,394
Oh, Sunny, what a thing.
344
00:10:08,434 --> 00:10:10,434
You did that so easily.
You did it slowly for me,
345
00:10:10,474 --> 00:10:11,474
You did that so easily.
You did it slowly for me,
346
00:10:11,514 --> 00:10:13,514
but I can tell you can go up
very quickly, can't you?
347
00:10:13,554 --> 00:10:13,954
but I can tell you can go up
very quickly, can't you?
348
00:10:13,994 --> 00:10:15,994
When you're climbing,
what do you think about, anything?
349
00:10:16,034 --> 00:10:18,034
When you're climbing,
what do you think about, anything?
350
00:10:18,074 --> 00:10:18,314
When you're climbing,
what do you think about, anything?
351
00:10:18,354 --> 00:10:20,314
Nah, you should not
think about anything.
352
00:10:20,354 --> 00:10:22,354
You just need to focus
on your breath. Yeah.
353
00:10:22,394 --> 00:10:22,514
You just need to focus
on your breath. Yeah.
354
00:10:22,554 --> 00:10:24,554
When you're climbing,
you should observe a lot.
355
00:10:24,594 --> 00:10:25,194
When you're climbing,
you should observe a lot.
356
00:10:25,234 --> 00:10:27,234
That's easy. Love observing it.
357
00:10:27,274 --> 00:10:28,274
That's easy. Love observing it.
358
00:10:28,314 --> 00:10:30,314
If we could stop being distracted,
focus.
359
00:10:30,354 --> 00:10:31,994
If we could stop being distracted,
focus.
360
00:10:32,034 --> 00:10:34,034
Well, like, while climbing,
you need, like, that silence, also.
361
00:10:34,074 --> 00:10:35,194
Well, like, while climbing,
you need, like, that silence, also.
362
00:10:35,234 --> 00:10:37,234
When you focus and you breathe more,
we can do more, a lot of things.
363
00:10:37,274 --> 00:10:38,794
When you focus and you breathe more,
we can do more, a lot of things.
364
00:10:40,314 --> 00:10:42,314
And do some meditation.
Focus on your breath.
365
00:10:42,354 --> 00:10:43,194
And do some meditation.
Focus on your breath.
366
00:10:44,234 --> 00:10:45,434
Do nothing.
367
00:22:19,788 --> 00:22:21,788
'I'm in the remarkable
medieval city of Hampi,
368
00:22:21,828 --> 00:22:23,068
'I'm in the remarkable
medieval city of Hampi,
369
00:22:23,108 --> 00:22:25,108
'and my new climbing friend, Sunny,
has invited me to his home
370
00:22:25,148 --> 00:22:26,508
'and my new climbing friend, Sunny,
has invited me to his home
371
00:22:26,548 --> 00:22:28,548
'for a special
festival preparation.'
372
00:22:28,588 --> 00:22:28,788
'for a special
festival preparation.'
373
00:22:28,828 --> 00:22:30,428
Hello?
Hello.
374
00:22:30,468 --> 00:22:32,468
Oh, Sunny, what a...
Good evening.
375
00:22:32,508 --> 00:22:32,948
Oh, Sunny, what a...
Good evening.
376
00:22:32,988 --> 00:22:34,988
It's so nice to see you.
Oh, look. Is this OK?
377
00:22:35,028 --> 00:22:35,348
It's so nice to see you.
Oh, look. Is this OK?
378
00:22:35,388 --> 00:22:37,388
So beautiful, actually.
Oh, I'm delighted.
379
00:22:37,428 --> 00:22:37,548
So beautiful, actually.
Oh, I'm delighted.
380
00:22:37,588 --> 00:22:38,868
Welcome. My brother...
Namaste.
381
00:22:38,908 --> 00:22:40,548
Namaste.
Namaste, how lovely to see you.
382
00:22:40,588 --> 00:22:42,588
..and my aunt,
and my sister, brother, kids...
383
00:22:42,628 --> 00:22:42,868
..and my aunt,
and my sister, brother, kids...
384
00:22:42,908 --> 00:22:43,908
Oh.
385
00:22:43,948 --> 00:22:45,788
..and my mum is inside.
How wonderful.
386
00:22:47,748 --> 00:22:49,748
Oh, namaste.
And she's my lovely mum.
387
00:22:49,788 --> 00:22:50,468
Oh, namaste.
And she's my lovely mum.
388
00:22:50,508 --> 00:22:51,548
Namaste.
Namaste.
389
00:22:51,588 --> 00:22:53,588
We love your son. We love him.
ALL CHUCKLE
390
00:22:53,628 --> 00:22:54,468
We love your son. We love him.
ALL CHUCKLE
391
00:22:54,508 --> 00:22:55,908
This is so beautiful here.
392
00:22:55,948 --> 00:22:57,428
Before going festival,
393
00:22:57,468 --> 00:22:59,468
so we're going to be worshipping
our god from home, home god.
394
00:22:59,508 --> 00:23:00,508
so we're going to be worshipping
our god from home, home god.
395
00:23:00,548 --> 00:23:01,948
And who is the goddess?
396
00:23:01,988 --> 00:23:03,988
So, this is called Lakshmi.
Lakshmi.
397
00:23:04,028 --> 00:23:04,148
So, this is called Lakshmi.
Lakshmi.
398
00:23:04,188 --> 00:23:05,588
She's a god for money.
Yeah.
399
00:23:05,628 --> 00:23:07,628
And what we are worshipping today,
it is a part of the name of it.
400
00:23:07,668 --> 00:23:09,268
And what we are worshipping today,
it is a part of the name of it.
401
00:23:09,308 --> 00:23:10,388
Like, every god in India,
402
00:23:10,428 --> 00:23:12,348
they're going to be having,
like, goddess name.
403
00:23:12,388 --> 00:23:14,388
Like Shiva, eight names.
Yes.
404
00:23:14,428 --> 00:23:14,828
Like Shiva, eight names.
Yes.
405
00:23:14,868 --> 00:23:15,868
Like one god.
Yeah.
406
00:23:15,908 --> 00:23:17,908
Like that, every god having plenty
of names like that.
407
00:23:17,948 --> 00:23:18,268
Like that, every god having plenty
of names like that.
408
00:23:18,308 --> 00:23:20,188
Yes. Brilliant.
Yeah.
409
00:23:20,228 --> 00:23:22,228
Complicated, but brilliant.
410
00:23:22,268 --> 00:23:22,468
Complicated, but brilliant.
411
00:23:22,508 --> 00:23:24,508
'The Hindu faith is fascinating.
412
00:23:24,548 --> 00:23:25,588
'The Hindu faith is fascinating.
413
00:23:25,628 --> 00:23:27,628
'And having so many incarnations
and different gods
414
00:23:27,668 --> 00:23:28,708
'And having so many incarnations
and different gods
415
00:23:28,748 --> 00:23:30,748
'means that people
can tailor their faith to them.'
416
00:23:30,788 --> 00:23:31,508
'means that people
can tailor their faith to them.'
417
00:23:31,548 --> 00:23:32,908
Yay!
418
00:23:32,948 --> 00:23:34,948
'We've been decorated
with holy turmeric for the festival,
419
00:23:34,988 --> 00:23:35,988
'We've been decorated
with holy turmeric for the festival,
420
00:23:36,028 --> 00:23:38,028
'which, in Hinduism,
is considered sacred,
421
00:23:38,068 --> 00:23:38,388
'which, in Hinduism,
is considered sacred,
422
00:23:38,428 --> 00:23:40,428
'being linked to fertility,
good luck
423
00:23:40,468 --> 00:23:40,588
'being linked to fertility,
good luck
424
00:23:40,628 --> 00:23:42,348
'and protection from evil spirits.
425
00:23:43,388 --> 00:23:45,388
'Spices are deeply embedded
in India's spiritual identity.'
426
00:23:45,428 --> 00:23:47,308
'Spices are deeply embedded
in India's spiritual identity.'
427
00:23:47,348 --> 00:23:49,348
SINGS IN OWN LANGUAGE
428
00:23:49,388 --> 00:23:50,668
SINGS IN OWN LANGUAGE
429
00:24:02,948 --> 00:24:03,988
Thank you.
430
00:24:04,028 --> 00:24:05,828
Thank you.
431
00:24:10,628 --> 00:24:12,628
'Sunny goes to the temple
to join more of his family...
432
00:24:12,668 --> 00:24:14,108
'Sunny goes to the temple
to join more of his family...
433
00:24:16,908 --> 00:24:18,908
'..and I bump into
my professor friend, Sharada, again.
434
00:24:18,948 --> 00:24:20,708
'..and I bump into
my professor friend, Sharada, again.
435
00:24:29,108 --> 00:24:31,108
'Sharada's leading us
to the focal point of the festival -
436
00:24:31,148 --> 00:24:32,228
'Sharada's leading us
to the focal point of the festival -
437
00:24:32,268 --> 00:24:34,268
'a holy tree,
where all kinds of blessings
438
00:24:34,308 --> 00:24:34,988
'a holy tree,
where all kinds of blessings
439
00:24:35,028 --> 00:24:37,028
'and auspicious gestures
are taking place.
440
00:24:37,068 --> 00:24:37,988
'and auspicious gestures
are taking place.
441
00:24:38,028 --> 00:24:40,028
'Much of the activity
is focused on the tree itself.
442
00:24:40,068 --> 00:24:41,228
'Much of the activity
is focused on the tree itself.
443
00:24:41,268 --> 00:24:43,268
'In Hindu legend,
the leaves are likened to gold
444
00:24:43,308 --> 00:24:43,988
'In Hindu legend,
the leaves are likened to gold
445
00:24:44,028 --> 00:24:46,028
'and symbolise prosperity.
446
00:24:46,068 --> 00:24:47,028
'and symbolise prosperity.
447
00:24:47,068 --> 00:24:49,068
'There's also a very sweet way
of sharing them
448
00:24:49,108 --> 00:24:49,468
'There's also a very sweet way
of sharing them
449
00:24:49,508 --> 00:24:51,108
'and offering them to friends.'
450
00:24:51,148 --> 00:24:53,148
Sharada, look, I've got some.
I'm going to give mine to you.
451
00:24:53,188 --> 00:24:54,628
Sharada, look, I've got some.
I'm going to give mine to you.
452
00:24:54,668 --> 00:24:55,988
Oh, thank you.
There.
453
00:24:56,028 --> 00:24:58,028
Well, this is such
a special ritual over here,
454
00:24:58,068 --> 00:24:58,708
Well, this is such
a special ritual over here,
455
00:24:58,748 --> 00:25:00,748
where banni tree's intertwined
with the peepal tree
456
00:25:00,788 --> 00:25:01,708
where banni tree's intertwined
with the peepal tree
457
00:25:01,748 --> 00:25:03,388
as an emblem of friendship.
458
00:25:03,428 --> 00:25:05,428
And there's a Kannada saying that...
SPEAKS KANNADA
459
00:25:05,468 --> 00:25:07,468
And there's a Kannada saying that...
SPEAKS KANNADA
460
00:25:07,508 --> 00:25:08,468
And there's a Kannada saying that...
SPEAKS KANNADA
461
00:25:08,508 --> 00:25:10,108
..which means that, you know,
462
00:25:10,148 --> 00:25:12,148
friendship is more precious
than gold, like the banni leaves.
463
00:25:12,188 --> 00:25:13,868
friendship is more precious
than gold, like the banni leaves.
464
00:25:13,908 --> 00:25:15,348
Thank you so much.
465
00:25:17,228 --> 00:25:19,228
And, you know,
it takes such a special person
466
00:25:19,268 --> 00:25:19,388
And, you know,
it takes such a special person
467
00:25:19,428 --> 00:25:21,428
to have appreciated the magnificence
and brought Hampi alive...
468
00:25:21,468 --> 00:25:23,188
to have appreciated the magnificence
and brought Hampi alive...
469
00:25:23,228 --> 00:25:25,228
Sharada, friends for life.
Yes, indeed.
470
00:25:25,268 --> 00:25:26,548
Sharada, friends for life.
Yes, indeed.
471
00:25:29,068 --> 00:25:31,068
It's so lovely, Joanna, thank you.
472
00:25:31,108 --> 00:25:31,428
It's so lovely, Joanna, thank you.
473
00:25:35,748 --> 00:25:37,748
'My time in Hampi
has been so memorable.'
474
00:25:37,788 --> 00:25:38,148
'My time in Hampi
has been so memorable.'
475
00:25:39,188 --> 00:25:41,188
When this kingdom
was the second richest in the world,
476
00:25:41,228 --> 00:25:42,468
When this kingdom
was the second richest in the world,
477
00:25:42,508 --> 00:25:44,508
just a handful of black pepper
would have been worth more
478
00:25:44,548 --> 00:25:45,308
just a handful of black pepper
would have been worth more
479
00:25:45,348 --> 00:25:47,348
than the weekly wage
of most workers in the UK...
480
00:25:47,388 --> 00:25:48,428
than the weekly wage
of most workers in the UK...
481
00:25:49,548 --> 00:25:51,548
..and most Europeans didn't even
really know where it came from,
482
00:25:51,588 --> 00:25:52,308
..and most Europeans didn't even
really know where it came from,
483
00:25:52,348 --> 00:25:54,348
so there was a race
to find a new trade route to India.
484
00:25:54,388 --> 00:25:55,708
so there was a race
to find a new trade route to India.
485
00:25:58,348 --> 00:26:00,348
I'm getting on the slow train
to Goa,
486
00:26:00,388 --> 00:26:00,788
I'm getting on the slow train
to Goa,
487
00:26:00,828 --> 00:26:02,828
on a railway built
by the Portuguese,
488
00:26:02,868 --> 00:26:03,268
on a railway built
by the Portuguese,
489
00:26:03,308 --> 00:26:05,308
and it was they who first found
their way here by sea,
490
00:26:05,348 --> 00:26:07,348
and it was they who first found
their way here by sea,
491
00:26:07,388 --> 00:26:07,628
and it was they who first found
their way here by sea,
492
00:26:07,668 --> 00:26:09,668
all the way back in 1498.
493
00:26:09,708 --> 00:26:10,468
all the way back in 1498.
494
00:26:34,868 --> 00:26:36,868
CHANTING
NAMES OF WARES
495
00:26:36,908 --> 00:26:38,708
CHANTING
NAMES OF WARES
496
00:26:38,748 --> 00:26:40,748
VENDOR:Chai, chai, chai,
chai, chai.
497
00:26:40,788 --> 00:26:40,988
VENDOR:Chai, chai, chai,
chai, chai.
498
00:26:41,028 --> 00:26:43,028
A wonderful thing about stopping
at a station on an Indian train
499
00:26:43,068 --> 00:26:44,068
A wonderful thing about stopping
at a station on an Indian train
500
00:26:44,108 --> 00:26:46,108
is that it immediately is alive
with chaiwalas,
501
00:26:46,148 --> 00:26:47,268
is that it immediately is alive
with chaiwalas,
502
00:26:47,308 --> 00:26:49,308
which are people selling tea,
or paniwalas selling water,
503
00:26:49,348 --> 00:26:49,828
which are people selling tea,
or paniwalas selling water,
504
00:26:49,868 --> 00:26:51,708
or people selling
lovely little soft cakes.
505
00:26:51,748 --> 00:26:53,748
And they come through
crying their wares,
506
00:26:53,788 --> 00:26:54,108
And they come through
crying their wares,
507
00:26:54,148 --> 00:26:56,148
their voice pitched
at a slightly different level,
508
00:26:56,188 --> 00:26:56,308
their voice pitched
at a slightly different level,
509
00:26:56,348 --> 00:26:58,348
so you'll know exactly when they're
coming and what they're selling.
510
00:26:58,388 --> 00:26:59,388
so you'll know exactly when they're
coming and what they're selling.
511
00:26:59,428 --> 00:27:01,348
They used to have a man
in the streets, in London,
512
00:27:01,388 --> 00:27:03,228
who used to sell
the Evening Standard going...
513
00:27:03,268 --> 00:27:05,268
He used to sell the paper he'd go...
SHOUTS INDISTINCTLY
514
00:27:05,308 --> 00:27:06,268
He used to sell the paper he'd go...
SHOUTS INDISTINCTLY
515
00:27:06,308 --> 00:27:08,308
..and when you heard that sound,
you'd know that it was a paper boy.
516
00:27:08,348 --> 00:27:09,348
..and when you heard that sound,
you'd know that it was a paper boy.
517
00:27:09,388 --> 00:27:11,268
HE SHOUTS
NAMES OF WARES
518
00:27:11,308 --> 00:27:13,308
And I've got this little
beautiful paper cup of chai,
519
00:27:13,348 --> 00:27:14,788
And I've got this little
beautiful paper cup of chai,
520
00:27:14,828 --> 00:27:16,828
which is chai masala,
which is intensely sweet
521
00:27:16,868 --> 00:27:17,388
which is chai masala,
which is intensely sweet
522
00:27:17,428 --> 00:27:19,428
and very hot and strong and milky
and got spices in it.
523
00:27:19,468 --> 00:27:21,468
and very hot and strong and milky
and got spices in it.
524
00:27:21,508 --> 00:27:21,748
and very hot and strong and milky
and got spices in it.
525
00:27:21,788 --> 00:27:23,788
VENDOR:Chai, chai, chai, chai.
Chai, chai, chai, chai.
526
00:27:23,828 --> 00:27:25,828
VENDOR:Chai, chai, chai, chai.
Chai, chai, chai, chai.
527
00:27:25,868 --> 00:27:26,148
VENDOR:Chai, chai, chai, chai.
Chai, chai, chai, chai.
528
00:27:26,188 --> 00:27:27,788
Chai, chai, chai, chai.
529
00:27:27,828 --> 00:27:29,828
'But the reason
this particular train is special
530
00:27:29,868 --> 00:27:30,468
'But the reason
this particular train is special
531
00:27:30,508 --> 00:27:32,508
'is because it goes over one
of the biggest waterfalls in India.'
532
00:27:32,548 --> 00:27:34,468
'is because it goes over one
of the biggest waterfalls in India.'
533
00:27:34,508 --> 00:27:36,508
I understand that this is where
you get the best view
534
00:27:36,548 --> 00:27:36,828
I understand that this is where
you get the best view
535
00:27:36,868 --> 00:27:38,868
of the fabulous Dudhsagar Falls,
which I can't wait to see.
536
00:27:38,908 --> 00:27:40,908
of the fabulous Dudhsagar Falls,
which I can't wait to see.
537
00:27:40,948 --> 00:27:41,108
of the fabulous Dudhsagar Falls,
which I can't wait to see.
538
00:27:41,148 --> 00:27:42,868
'As the waterfall approaches,
539
00:27:42,908 --> 00:27:44,908
'I get chatting to a kind-looking
gentleman who's sitting next to me.'
540
00:27:44,948 --> 00:27:46,468
'I get chatting to a kind-looking
gentleman who's sitting next to me.'
541
00:27:46,508 --> 00:27:48,268
It's lovely to meet you.
542
00:27:48,308 --> 00:27:50,308
Baba, you look like a holy man.
Are you a holy man?
543
00:27:50,348 --> 00:27:51,548
Baba, you look like a holy man.
Are you a holy man?
544
00:28:06,868 --> 00:28:08,868
Will you come and sit with me
to see the waterfall?
545
00:28:08,908 --> 00:28:09,548
Will you come and sit with me
to see the waterfall?
546
00:28:15,908 --> 00:28:17,508
There's this water
coming everywhere,
547
00:28:17,548 --> 00:28:19,548
falling off the rocks,
tumbling down.
548
00:28:19,588 --> 00:28:19,908
falling off the rocks,
tumbling down.
549
00:28:19,948 --> 00:28:21,548
It's as if it's pouring with rain.
550
00:28:23,268 --> 00:28:25,148
'And just on the other side
of this tunnel,
551
00:28:25,188 --> 00:28:27,188
'we'll be met
by the amazing Dudhsagar Falls,
552
00:28:27,228 --> 00:28:27,948
'we'll be met
by the amazing Dudhsagar Falls,
553
00:28:27,988 --> 00:28:29,988
'which translates to "sea of milk"
because of the spray it creates.'
554
00:28:30,028 --> 00:28:32,028
'which translates to "sea of milk"
because of the spray it creates.'
555
00:28:32,068 --> 00:28:33,148
'which translates to "sea of milk"
because of the spray it creates.'
556
00:28:33,188 --> 00:28:35,188
Coming up.
Oh, whoa!
557
00:28:35,228 --> 00:28:37,068
Coming up.
Oh, whoa!
558
00:28:39,948 --> 00:28:41,948
Oh! How thrilling!
559
00:28:41,988 --> 00:28:43,188
Oh! How thrilling!
560
00:28:43,228 --> 00:28:45,228
Suddenly,
that dashing mass of water,
561
00:28:45,268 --> 00:28:45,908
Suddenly,
that dashing mass of water,
562
00:28:45,948 --> 00:28:47,948
and Baba David's quickly throwing
his coconut for the blessing out.
563
00:28:47,988 --> 00:28:49,468
and Baba David's quickly throwing
his coconut for the blessing out.
564
00:28:51,508 --> 00:28:53,068
How gorgeous.
565
00:28:53,108 --> 00:28:55,108
And how gorgeous
to have seen it with David.
566
00:28:55,148 --> 00:28:55,348
And how gorgeous
to have seen it with David.
567
00:29:03,988 --> 00:29:05,988
The tracks descend
to the coast of Goa.
568
00:29:06,028 --> 00:29:06,668
The tracks descend
to the coast of Goa.
569
00:29:06,708 --> 00:29:08,708
This is the region
that was officially part
570
00:29:08,748 --> 00:29:08,868
This is the region
that was officially part
571
00:29:08,908 --> 00:29:10,908
of Portuguese territory
for over 450 years,
572
00:29:10,948 --> 00:29:12,948
of Portuguese territory
for over 450 years,
573
00:29:12,988 --> 00:29:13,108
of Portuguese territory
for over 450 years,
574
00:29:13,148 --> 00:29:15,148
and you can still
definitely see their influence.
575
00:29:15,188 --> 00:29:15,868
and you can still
definitely see their influence.
576
00:29:23,668 --> 00:29:25,668
I'm used to little pit stops
like this in London
577
00:29:25,708 --> 00:29:25,988
I'm used to little pit stops
like this in London
578
00:29:26,028 --> 00:29:28,028
because I live in an area
which is nicknamed Little Portugal,
579
00:29:28,068 --> 00:29:30,068
because I live in an area
which is nicknamed Little Portugal,
580
00:29:30,108 --> 00:29:30,228
because I live in an area
which is nicknamed Little Portugal,
581
00:29:30,268 --> 00:29:32,268
but the last place in the world
I imagined to find all this
582
00:29:32,308 --> 00:29:33,108
but the last place in the world
I imagined to find all this
583
00:29:33,148 --> 00:29:34,828
is in southern India.
584
00:29:34,868 --> 00:29:36,548
JOANNA GASPS
So nice to see you.
585
00:29:36,588 --> 00:29:38,428
How nice to see you.
What is your name?
586
00:29:38,468 --> 00:29:40,028
I'm Gletta Mascarenhas.
587
00:29:40,068 --> 00:29:42,068
Mascarenhas?
That's a very Portuguese name.
588
00:29:42,108 --> 00:29:42,228
Mascarenhas?
That's a very Portuguese name.
589
00:29:42,268 --> 00:29:43,268
Nice meeting you.
590
00:29:43,308 --> 00:29:45,308
So, I've got
some pastel de nata for you.
591
00:29:45,348 --> 00:29:45,908
So, I've got
some pastel de nata for you.
592
00:29:45,948 --> 00:29:47,948
This is a family concern.
Oh, yeah, it is.
593
00:29:47,988 --> 00:29:49,988
How long have... have the family...?
So, like, 92 years now.
594
00:29:50,028 --> 00:29:51,108
How long have... have the family...?
So, like, 92 years now.
595
00:29:51,148 --> 00:29:52,268
Oh, my gosh.
596
00:29:52,308 --> 00:29:54,308
This is very good.
We do it in our wood-fired oven.
597
00:29:54,348 --> 00:29:55,268
This is very good.
We do it in our wood-fired oven.
598
00:29:55,308 --> 00:29:57,068
A wood fire?
Yes.
599
00:29:57,108 --> 00:29:58,788
Oh, that's gor... that's the taste.
Yes.
600
00:29:58,828 --> 00:30:00,828
Thank you so much. Obrigada.
Thank you.
601
00:30:00,868 --> 00:30:01,228
Thank you so much. Obrigada.
Thank you.
602
00:30:02,268 --> 00:30:04,268
IN PORTUGUESE ACCENT: No, no, no.
It's not for you, baby.
603
00:30:04,308 --> 00:30:04,668
IN PORTUGUESE ACCENT: No, no, no.
It's not for you, baby.
604
00:30:04,708 --> 00:30:06,708
It's for me.
For fat woman sitting on chair.
605
00:30:06,748 --> 00:30:08,188
It's for me.
For fat woman sitting on chair.
606
00:30:09,828 --> 00:30:11,828
Look, gone. It's gone.
607
00:30:11,868 --> 00:30:13,028
Look, gone. It's gone.
608
00:30:13,068 --> 00:30:14,188
It's gone, baby.
609
00:30:16,468 --> 00:30:18,468
One of the largest cities in Goa
is called Vasco da Gama,
610
00:30:18,508 --> 00:30:20,508
One of the largest cities in Goa
is called Vasco da Gama,
611
00:30:20,548 --> 00:30:20,988
One of the largest cities in Goa
is called Vasco da Gama,
612
00:30:21,028 --> 00:30:22,908
named after
the fierce Portuguese explorer
613
00:30:22,948 --> 00:30:24,948
who broke new ground for Europeans,
614
00:30:24,988 --> 00:30:25,068
who broke new ground for Europeans,
615
00:30:25,108 --> 00:30:27,108
making the first successful
sea voyage to India from Europe.
616
00:30:27,148 --> 00:30:28,788
making the first successful
sea voyage to India from Europe.
617
00:30:29,748 --> 00:30:31,748
He was the first to sail
all the way round Africa,
618
00:30:31,788 --> 00:30:32,628
He was the first to sail
all the way round Africa,
619
00:30:32,668 --> 00:30:34,668
fuelled by a thirst for spices.
620
00:30:34,708 --> 00:30:35,388
fuelled by a thirst for spices.
621
00:30:36,508 --> 00:30:38,508
'Hansel is a writer
and a very knowledgeable local.'
622
00:30:38,548 --> 00:30:40,228
'Hansel is a writer
and a very knowledgeable local.'
623
00:30:41,468 --> 00:30:43,468
Hansel, we are in a place
called Vasco da Gama.
624
00:30:43,508 --> 00:30:44,028
Hansel, we are in a place
called Vasco da Gama.
625
00:30:44,068 --> 00:30:46,068
Yeah, he opened up the trade
of spice to Europe,
626
00:30:46,108 --> 00:30:47,628
Yeah, he opened up the trade
of spice to Europe,
627
00:30:47,668 --> 00:30:49,028
something that they never had.
628
00:30:49,068 --> 00:30:51,068
We were Hindu,
we were all other religions.
629
00:30:51,108 --> 00:30:51,668
We were Hindu,
we were all other religions.
630
00:30:51,708 --> 00:30:53,708
We had Jews, we had Arabs and Turks
who were here,
631
00:30:53,748 --> 00:30:54,548
We had Jews, we had Arabs and Turks
who were here,
632
00:30:54,588 --> 00:30:55,908
who were completely different.
633
00:30:55,948 --> 00:30:57,948
They were the traders.
We were the growers. We grew it.
634
00:30:57,988 --> 00:30:58,428
They were the traders.
We were the growers. We grew it.
635
00:30:58,468 --> 00:31:00,468
We gave it to them,
and they took it out,
636
00:31:00,508 --> 00:31:00,628
We gave it to them,
and they took it out,
637
00:31:00,668 --> 00:31:01,708
and Europe wanted that.
638
00:31:01,748 --> 00:31:03,748
What was the best spice?
What was the most valuable?
639
00:31:03,788 --> 00:31:04,668
What was the best spice?
What was the most valuable?
640
00:31:04,708 --> 00:31:06,148
Pepper.
Pepper.
641
00:31:06,188 --> 00:31:08,188
Black gold.
Tell me why it's called black gold.
642
00:31:08,228 --> 00:31:09,388
Black gold.
Tell me why it's called black gold.
643
00:31:09,428 --> 00:31:11,428
You can raise the profile
of an egg like never before.
644
00:31:11,468 --> 00:31:11,588
You can raise the profile
of an egg like never before.
645
00:31:11,628 --> 00:31:12,988
You could put it on a steak,
646
00:31:13,028 --> 00:31:15,028
make that steak better
than you could imagine,
647
00:31:15,068 --> 00:31:15,348
make that steak better
than you could imagine,
648
00:31:15,388 --> 00:31:17,388
with just a sprinkling
of this magic dust
649
00:31:17,428 --> 00:31:17,588
with just a sprinkling
of this magic dust
650
00:31:17,628 --> 00:31:18,988
that could change it completely.
651
00:31:19,028 --> 00:31:21,028
And it's interesting when we talk
about the first Europeans coming,
652
00:31:21,068 --> 00:31:21,748
And it's interesting when we talk
about the first Europeans coming,
653
00:31:21,788 --> 00:31:23,548
they didn't just come and do trade.
654
00:31:23,588 --> 00:31:25,588
There was conquest.
There was bloodshed.
655
00:31:25,628 --> 00:31:26,188
There was conquest.
There was bloodshed.
656
00:31:26,228 --> 00:31:27,868
There was war.
657
00:31:27,908 --> 00:31:29,908
All three colonisers -
the Portuguese, Dutch and British -
658
00:31:29,948 --> 00:31:30,948
All three colonisers -
the Portuguese, Dutch and British -
659
00:31:30,988 --> 00:31:32,988
fought for control
of the spice trade
660
00:31:33,028 --> 00:31:33,508
fought for control
of the spice trade
661
00:31:33,548 --> 00:31:35,548
and made huge profits
shipping spices out of the country.
662
00:31:35,588 --> 00:31:36,788
and made huge profits
shipping spices out of the country.
663
00:31:38,028 --> 00:31:39,788
But what the Portuguese
brought with them
664
00:31:39,828 --> 00:31:41,828
also changed the culture
here in India.
665
00:31:41,868 --> 00:31:42,828
also changed the culture
here in India.
666
00:31:42,868 --> 00:31:44,468
I'm gonna use Portuguese words.
667
00:31:44,508 --> 00:31:46,508
They brought "tomate", "batata",
and they brought "chillies".
668
00:31:46,548 --> 00:31:47,388
They brought "tomate", "batata",
and they brought "chillies".
669
00:31:47,428 --> 00:31:48,628
Chillies.
Chillies!
670
00:31:48,668 --> 00:31:50,668
You had to be a landowner
to grow pepper,
671
00:31:50,708 --> 00:31:51,668
You had to be a landowner
to grow pepper,
672
00:31:51,708 --> 00:31:53,708
but chillies, you can just put
in a small pot and grow it.
673
00:31:53,748 --> 00:31:54,428
but chillies, you can just put
in a small pot and grow it.
674
00:31:54,468 --> 00:31:56,468
So it kind of liberated spice
to everyone.
675
00:31:56,508 --> 00:31:57,748
So it kind of liberated spice
to everyone.
676
00:31:57,788 --> 00:31:59,788
Hansel, I could talk to you forever.
THEY CHUCKLE
677
00:31:59,828 --> 00:32:01,228
Hansel, I could talk to you forever.
THEY CHUCKLE
678
00:32:01,268 --> 00:32:03,268
Will you show me in the market
all these various bits and pieces?
679
00:32:03,308 --> 00:32:04,588
Will you show me in the market
all these various bits and pieces?
680
00:32:15,148 --> 00:32:17,148
Like a tapestry of beautiful things.
681
00:32:17,188 --> 00:32:18,268
Like a tapestry of beautiful things.
682
00:32:19,628 --> 00:32:21,348
I wish my cupboard
was arranged like this.
683
00:32:21,388 --> 00:32:23,228
Me too!
684
00:32:23,268 --> 00:32:24,748
Tomate.
Tomate.
685
00:32:24,788 --> 00:32:26,188
Batata.
Batata.
686
00:32:26,228 --> 00:32:28,228
Yeah, batata.
Batata, yeah.
687
00:32:28,268 --> 00:32:28,788
Yeah, batata.
Batata, yeah.
688
00:32:28,828 --> 00:32:30,508
And chillies.
Extraordinary.
689
00:32:30,548 --> 00:32:32,548
Cos this is what we truly believe
India to have had all its life.
690
00:32:32,588 --> 00:32:33,628
Cos this is what we truly believe
India to have had all its life.
691
00:32:33,668 --> 00:32:34,668
All its life!
692
00:32:38,068 --> 00:32:39,988
We've got a nice spice store here.
Look, yes.
693
00:32:40,028 --> 00:32:42,028
They've got cumin and turmeric.
694
00:32:42,068 --> 00:32:42,148
They've got cumin and turmeric.
695
00:32:42,188 --> 00:32:44,188
And it's that vivid,
irreplaceable yellow, isn't it?
696
00:32:44,228 --> 00:32:45,468
And it's that vivid,
irreplaceable yellow, isn't it?
697
00:32:45,508 --> 00:32:47,468
And pepper!
698
00:32:47,508 --> 00:32:49,108
It's dried.
699
00:32:49,148 --> 00:32:50,548
Mmm.
Oh.
700
00:32:50,588 --> 00:32:52,388
Hot, hot, hot.
It's hot.
701
00:32:52,428 --> 00:32:54,428
It's very interesting because
it could easily be confused
702
00:32:54,468 --> 00:32:55,148
It's very interesting because
it could easily be confused
703
00:32:55,188 --> 00:32:56,788
for a hot spice, like this.
704
00:32:56,828 --> 00:32:58,828
Yeah. In the old days,
this is a fortune.
705
00:32:58,868 --> 00:32:59,508
Yeah. In the old days,
this is a fortune.
706
00:32:59,548 --> 00:33:00,908
How much would this have cost?
707
00:33:00,948 --> 00:33:02,948
It's relative.
It's not the value of the grain.
708
00:33:02,988 --> 00:33:03,788
It's relative.
It's not the value of the grain.
709
00:33:03,828 --> 00:33:05,468
You would have to give me
a horse for this.
710
00:33:06,828 --> 00:33:08,828
Here's my Arab stallion.
Thank you for the pepper.
711
00:33:08,868 --> 00:33:09,708
Here's my Arab stallion.
Thank you for the pepper.
712
00:33:09,748 --> 00:33:11,188
Isn't that wonderful?
713
00:33:11,228 --> 00:33:13,228
He's given you a date.
Oh, I love that.
714
00:33:15,908 --> 00:33:16,988
Crikey.
715
00:33:17,028 --> 00:33:19,028
He's always putting a little more,
so you'll come back.
716
00:33:19,068 --> 00:33:19,868
He's always putting a little more,
so you'll come back.
717
00:33:19,908 --> 00:33:21,348
Oh, that's generous.
718
00:33:21,388 --> 00:33:22,388
Mmm, I love dates,
719
00:33:22,428 --> 00:33:24,428
particularly in slow motion,
like this.
720
00:33:24,468 --> 00:33:24,748
particularly in slow motion,
like this.
721
00:33:24,788 --> 00:33:26,788
Mmm, good, so I want to see.
What are you going to do with this?
722
00:33:26,828 --> 00:33:27,228
Mmm, good, so I want to see.
What are you going to do with this?
723
00:33:27,268 --> 00:33:28,628
Something magical.
724
00:33:28,668 --> 00:33:30,028
Oh, go on.
725
00:33:38,738 --> 00:33:39,898
Where are we now?
726
00:33:41,058 --> 00:33:42,458
This is my distillery.
727
00:33:42,498 --> 00:33:44,498
No, stop! It's not a distillery.
HANSEL LAUGHS
728
00:33:44,538 --> 00:33:45,178
No, stop! It's not a distillery.
HANSEL LAUGHS
729
00:33:45,218 --> 00:33:47,218
It's not like any distillery
I've ever been in.
730
00:33:47,258 --> 00:33:47,618
It's not like any distillery
I've ever been in.
731
00:33:47,658 --> 00:33:49,498
But what are you distilling?
What's it called?
732
00:33:49,538 --> 00:33:51,218
Feni.
Feni?Feni. So...
733
00:33:51,258 --> 00:33:53,138
I've never heard of it.
Yes. It's a category.
734
00:33:53,178 --> 00:33:54,978
We take the juice
of the cashew fruit
735
00:33:55,018 --> 00:33:56,458
or the nectar of coconut.
736
00:33:56,498 --> 00:33:57,898
We let it naturally ferment.
737
00:33:57,938 --> 00:33:59,538
And what are we doing
with our pepper
738
00:33:59,578 --> 00:34:00,618
that we got in the market?
739
00:34:00,658 --> 00:34:02,578
Oh, yes.
So this is the magic ingredient.
740
00:34:02,618 --> 00:34:04,618
Does it add flavour?
Yes. We can put some.
741
00:34:04,658 --> 00:34:04,778
Does it add flavour?
Yes. We can put some.
742
00:34:06,698 --> 00:34:08,698
Oh, listen.
Yeah, that's it. That's good.
743
00:34:08,738 --> 00:34:08,938
Oh, listen.
Yeah, that's it. That's good.
744
00:34:08,978 --> 00:34:10,978
We are adding distilled,
that we distilled yesterday.
745
00:34:11,018 --> 00:34:11,418
We are adding distilled,
that we distilled yesterday.
746
00:34:11,458 --> 00:34:13,458
You can taste it.
747
00:34:13,498 --> 00:34:14,698
HE LAUGHS
748
00:34:14,738 --> 00:34:16,058
It's quite nice.
It's quite nice.
749
00:34:16,098 --> 00:34:17,818
It's almost like a sake.
Yes, it is.
750
00:34:17,858 --> 00:34:19,858
Yeah, like a sake.
And we seal it with mud.
751
00:34:19,898 --> 00:34:20,778
Yeah, like a sake.
And we seal it with mud.
752
00:34:20,818 --> 00:34:22,818
So you're gonna take some clay.
Yeah.
753
00:34:22,858 --> 00:34:22,978
So you're gonna take some clay.
Yeah.
754
00:34:23,018 --> 00:34:24,938
This is almost like the movie Ghost.
755
00:34:27,858 --> 00:34:29,658
I look like Patrick Swayze.
You do, actually.
756
00:34:29,698 --> 00:34:31,698
It's the first thing that came
to my mind when I met you.
757
00:34:31,738 --> 00:34:33,698
It's the first thing that came
to my mind when I met you.
758
00:34:33,738 --> 00:34:35,738
So now what? Light the fire?
Now we will take some leaves.
759
00:34:35,778 --> 00:34:36,458
So now what? Light the fire?
Now we will take some leaves.
760
00:34:36,498 --> 00:34:38,498
This is... This is coconut.
Yeah.
761
00:34:38,538 --> 00:34:38,698
This is... This is coconut.
Yeah.
762
00:34:38,738 --> 00:34:40,178
Just go straight in.
763
00:34:40,218 --> 00:34:42,218
AMERICAN DRAWL: Hansel, man of fire.
764
00:34:42,258 --> 00:34:42,698
AMERICAN DRAWL: Hansel, man of fire.
765
00:34:42,738 --> 00:34:44,378
There it goes.
HANSEL CHUCKLES
766
00:34:44,418 --> 00:34:46,418
That's very good.
Good, good, good.
767
00:34:46,458 --> 00:34:46,618
That's very good.
Good, good, good.
768
00:34:46,658 --> 00:34:48,658
We should see some alcohol
coming out in about an hour. No!
769
00:34:48,698 --> 00:34:50,338
We should see some alcohol
coming out in about an hour. No!
770
00:34:50,378 --> 00:34:52,378
But I can actually show you
something interesting.
771
00:34:52,418 --> 00:34:52,618
But I can actually show you
something interesting.
772
00:34:52,658 --> 00:34:54,658
Have you got
something even more interesting?
773
00:34:54,698 --> 00:34:54,818
Have you got
something even more interesting?
774
00:34:54,858 --> 00:34:56,178
I've got a lot of tricks
up my sleeve.
775
00:34:56,218 --> 00:34:57,458
BOTH CHUCKLE
776
00:35:01,018 --> 00:35:02,578
JOANNA GASPS
Surprise!
777
00:35:02,618 --> 00:35:03,698
Oh!
778
00:35:03,738 --> 00:35:05,738
This is an alfresco feni tasting.
779
00:35:05,778 --> 00:35:06,178
This is an alfresco feni tasting.
780
00:35:07,538 --> 00:35:09,538
It's cheaper than air condition.
But look, there are little fishes.
781
00:35:09,578 --> 00:35:10,258
It's cheaper than air condition.
But look, there are little fishes.
782
00:35:10,298 --> 00:35:12,298
Yes.
So you get a free fish pedicure.
783
00:35:12,338 --> 00:35:12,458
Yes.
So you get a free fish pedicure.
784
00:35:12,498 --> 00:35:14,378
Take the seat.
785
00:35:14,418 --> 00:35:16,018
BOTH CHUCKLE
786
00:35:16,058 --> 00:35:18,058
It's just extraordinary.
Yeah. Yeah.
787
00:35:18,098 --> 00:35:18,658
It's just extraordinary.
Yeah. Yeah.
788
00:35:18,698 --> 00:35:19,738
POP
Wow!
789
00:35:19,778 --> 00:35:21,098
Ooh, that's the sound we love.
790
00:35:21,138 --> 00:35:22,778
Yeah.
BOTH LAUGH
791
00:35:22,818 --> 00:35:24,818
The fishes, nibbling?
Nibbling, yes. It's...
792
00:35:24,858 --> 00:35:24,978
The fishes, nibbling?
Nibbling, yes. It's...
793
00:35:25,018 --> 00:35:27,018
This is the only place in the world
794
00:35:27,058 --> 00:35:27,698
This is the only place in the world
795
00:35:27,738 --> 00:35:29,738
that decided to make an alcohol
out of the cashew fruit,
796
00:35:29,778 --> 00:35:31,658
that decided to make an alcohol
out of the cashew fruit,
797
00:35:31,698 --> 00:35:32,738
not the nut.
798
00:35:32,778 --> 00:35:34,778
The cashew's a fruit
that came from the Amazon.
799
00:35:34,818 --> 00:35:34,938
The cashew's a fruit
that came from the Amazon.
800
00:35:34,978 --> 00:35:36,698
From the Portuguese?
From the Portuguese.
801
00:35:36,738 --> 00:35:38,738
We are the only people who said,
"Let's find a more inventive use."
802
00:35:38,778 --> 00:35:40,618
We are the only people who said,
"Let's find a more inventive use."
803
00:35:40,658 --> 00:35:42,658
We didn't just accept
the chilli or the cashew.
804
00:35:42,698 --> 00:35:43,498
We didn't just accept
the chilli or the cashew.
805
00:35:43,538 --> 00:35:45,538
We embraced them, making it
an inseparable part of your fibre.
806
00:35:45,578 --> 00:35:47,538
We embraced them, making it
an inseparable part of your fibre.
807
00:35:47,578 --> 00:35:49,578
Cashew feni is like that
for us today.
808
00:35:49,618 --> 00:35:50,018
Cashew feni is like that
for us today.
809
00:35:50,058 --> 00:35:51,258
We say saude.
Saude.
810
00:35:57,698 --> 00:35:59,698
So we've got a fire going.
Oh, look at that!
811
00:35:59,738 --> 00:36:00,418
So we've got a fire going.
Oh, look at that!
812
00:36:00,458 --> 00:36:02,458
Yeah, it's fresh
out of the distillery. Straight out.
813
00:36:02,498 --> 00:36:03,938
Yeah, it's fresh
out of the distillery. Straight out.
814
00:36:07,698 --> 00:36:09,698
Oh, my gosh!
Ha-ha, it's...
815
00:36:09,738 --> 00:36:09,858
Oh, my gosh!
Ha-ha, it's...
816
00:36:11,898 --> 00:36:13,698
Is it peppery? Spicy?
817
00:36:13,738 --> 00:36:15,738
It's peppery and spicy.
It's delicious.
818
00:36:15,778 --> 00:36:16,898
It's peppery and spicy.
It's delicious.
819
00:36:16,938 --> 00:36:18,298
Yeah.
Hansel, thank you so much.
820
00:36:18,338 --> 00:36:20,058
Oh. Thank you.
821
00:36:21,098 --> 00:36:23,098
Enjoying the warm afterglow of feni,
822
00:36:23,138 --> 00:36:23,418
Enjoying the warm afterglow of feni,
823
00:36:23,458 --> 00:36:25,458
I'm heading inland
because I want to see
824
00:36:25,498 --> 00:36:25,618
I'm heading inland
because I want to see
825
00:36:25,658 --> 00:36:27,658
how the little pots on my spice rack
begin life.
826
00:36:27,698 --> 00:36:28,778
how the little pots on my spice rack
begin life.
827
00:36:28,818 --> 00:36:30,178
And as a keen gardener myself,
828
00:36:30,218 --> 00:36:32,218
I'm looking forward
to meeting a man after my own heart
829
00:36:32,258 --> 00:36:33,178
I'm looking forward
to meeting a man after my own heart
830
00:36:33,218 --> 00:36:35,218
with his holistic approach
to growing spices.
831
00:36:35,258 --> 00:36:35,978
with his holistic approach
to growing spices.
832
00:36:37,298 --> 00:36:38,578
Mr Sachin.
833
00:36:38,618 --> 00:36:40,618
Joanna, welcome to our plantation.
Oh, thank you so much.
834
00:36:40,658 --> 00:36:42,058
Joanna, welcome to our plantation.
Oh, thank you so much.
835
00:36:42,098 --> 00:36:44,098
Namaste. How lovely to see you.
Thank you.
836
00:36:44,138 --> 00:36:44,458
Namaste. How lovely to see you.
Thank you.
837
00:36:44,498 --> 00:36:45,858
You see.
Thank you.Plantation.
838
00:36:47,538 --> 00:36:49,538
This type of set-up
is called kulagar.
839
00:36:49,578 --> 00:36:49,978
This type of set-up
is called kulagar.
840
00:36:50,018 --> 00:36:52,018
Kulagar means combination
of all plants and trees and creepers
841
00:36:52,058 --> 00:36:54,058
Kulagar means combination
of all plants and trees and creepers
842
00:36:54,098 --> 00:36:54,458
Kulagar means combination
of all plants and trees and creepers
843
00:36:54,498 --> 00:36:56,218
which grows well with each other.
844
00:36:56,258 --> 00:36:58,258
MUSIC: 'Ae Ajnabi' by Udit Narayan,
Mahalaxmi & Altaf Raja
845
00:36:58,298 --> 00:36:59,058
MUSIC: 'Ae Ajnabi' by Udit Narayan,
Mahalaxmi & Altaf Raja
846
00:37:03,378 --> 00:37:05,378
What is the difference
between this beautiful plantation
847
00:37:05,418 --> 00:37:07,418
What is the difference
between this beautiful plantation
848
00:37:07,458 --> 00:37:08,258
What is the difference
between this beautiful plantation
849
00:37:08,298 --> 00:37:10,298
and the great big,
more industrial, estates?
850
00:37:10,338 --> 00:37:10,618
and the great big,
more industrial, estates?
851
00:37:10,658 --> 00:37:12,658
It works on the principle of forest.
852
00:37:12,698 --> 00:37:12,818
It works on the principle of forest.
853
00:37:12,858 --> 00:37:14,858
The leaves of one plant
and other plant is a medicine.
854
00:37:14,898 --> 00:37:15,858
The leaves of one plant
and other plant is a medicine.
855
00:37:15,898 --> 00:37:17,898
The root of third plant,
a fourth plant, is a fertiliser.
856
00:37:17,938 --> 00:37:18,738
The root of third plant,
a fourth plant, is a fertiliser.
857
00:37:18,778 --> 00:37:20,178
Like that, it is.
858
00:37:20,218 --> 00:37:22,218
The huge suppliers of everything,
the monoculturalists...Uh-huh?
859
00:37:22,258 --> 00:37:23,858
The huge suppliers of everything,
the monoculturalists...Uh-huh?
860
00:37:23,898 --> 00:37:25,898
..are they interested
in this kind of farming?
861
00:37:25,938 --> 00:37:26,298
..are they interested
in this kind of farming?
862
00:37:26,338 --> 00:37:27,858
No, no.
Oh. Why?
863
00:37:27,898 --> 00:37:29,898
Profit margin.
It's comparatively less.
864
00:37:29,938 --> 00:37:30,858
Profit margin.
It's comparatively less.
865
00:37:30,898 --> 00:37:32,698
Mm.
It's not aggressive.
866
00:37:32,738 --> 00:37:34,738
But everything's better.
People are happier.
867
00:37:34,778 --> 00:37:35,378
But everything's better.
People are happier.
868
00:37:35,418 --> 00:37:37,138
Life is good here.
Life is good here.
869
00:37:37,178 --> 00:37:39,178
Life is good. Everything is good.
870
00:37:39,218 --> 00:37:39,298
Life is good. Everything is good.
871
00:37:39,338 --> 00:37:41,338
Except, you see,
the glamour part we don't have.
872
00:37:41,378 --> 00:37:42,098
Except, you see,
the glamour part we don't have.
873
00:37:42,138 --> 00:37:43,178
No.
874
00:37:43,218 --> 00:37:45,218
So most of the 90% of the people,
they want glamour part.
875
00:37:45,258 --> 00:37:46,698
So most of the 90% of the people,
they want glamour part.
876
00:37:46,738 --> 00:37:47,778
I know. Isn't it funny?
877
00:37:49,258 --> 00:37:50,698
This is pepper.
Yes.
878
00:37:50,738 --> 00:37:52,738
And look at the peppercorns
all the way up the tree.
879
00:37:52,778 --> 00:37:53,378
And look at the peppercorns
all the way up the tree.
880
00:37:55,618 --> 00:37:57,618
The ripe one is sweet.
Sweet.
881
00:37:57,658 --> 00:37:58,178
The ripe one is sweet.
Sweet.
882
00:37:58,218 --> 00:38:00,218
That's why 10% crop,
we are not harvesting it. Why?
883
00:38:00,258 --> 00:38:02,218
That's why 10% crop,
we are not harvesting it. Why?
884
00:38:02,258 --> 00:38:04,258
For the sake of birds,
cos small birds comes and eats.
885
00:38:04,298 --> 00:38:05,578
For the sake of birds,
cos small birds comes and eats.
886
00:38:05,618 --> 00:38:06,738
So lovely.
887
00:38:06,778 --> 00:38:08,778
Because this world
is not for human being only,
888
00:38:08,818 --> 00:38:09,138
Because this world
is not for human being only,
889
00:38:09,178 --> 00:38:10,298
it's for everybody.
890
00:38:10,338 --> 00:38:11,858
It's the most important thing.
891
00:38:16,898 --> 00:38:17,978
Oh, look.
892
00:38:18,018 --> 00:38:20,018
My family cooking.
Would you like to join them?
893
00:38:20,058 --> 00:38:20,178
My family cooking.
Would you like to join them?
894
00:38:20,218 --> 00:38:22,218
I would love to. Hello, hello!
895
00:38:22,258 --> 00:38:23,618
I would love to. Hello, hello!
896
00:38:23,658 --> 00:38:25,658
'As we near the end of the tour
of the plantation,
897
00:38:25,698 --> 00:38:26,178
'As we near the end of the tour
of the plantation,
898
00:38:26,218 --> 00:38:28,218
'I get a chance to look
at how the Sachin family
899
00:38:28,258 --> 00:38:28,698
'I get a chance to look
at how the Sachin family
900
00:38:28,738 --> 00:38:30,738
'use all the delicious ingredients
they cultivate here.
901
00:38:30,778 --> 00:38:32,378
'use all the delicious ingredients
they cultivate here.
902
00:38:32,418 --> 00:38:34,418
'This really
is authentic South Indian cooking,
903
00:38:34,458 --> 00:38:35,498
'This really
is authentic South Indian cooking,
904
00:38:35,538 --> 00:38:37,538
'still using time-honoured utensils,
recipes,
905
00:38:37,578 --> 00:38:38,098
'still using time-honoured utensils,
recipes,
906
00:38:38,138 --> 00:38:40,018
'and, of course, an array of spices.
907
00:38:41,098 --> 00:38:42,298
'But before we eat,
908
00:38:42,338 --> 00:38:44,338
'Mr Sachin has a little something
I must try first.'
909
00:38:44,378 --> 00:38:45,858
'Mr Sachin has a little something
I must try first.'
910
00:38:46,938 --> 00:38:48,938
JOANNA GASPS,
MAN SPEAKS OWN LANGUAGE
911
00:38:48,978 --> 00:38:49,738
JOANNA GASPS,
MAN SPEAKS OWN LANGUAGE
912
00:38:51,538 --> 00:38:53,538
'This is a betel nut tree, or paan,
as it's more widely known.
913
00:38:53,578 --> 00:38:55,578
'This is a betel nut tree, or paan,
as it's more widely known.
914
00:38:55,618 --> 00:38:55,738
'This is a betel nut tree, or paan,
as it's more widely known.
915
00:38:55,778 --> 00:38:57,778
'It's chewed regularly
by millions in India.
916
00:38:57,818 --> 00:38:58,698
'It's chewed regularly
by millions in India.
917
00:38:58,738 --> 00:39:00,738
'It gives you a mild high,
but it is addictive.
918
00:39:00,778 --> 00:39:02,578
'It gives you a mild high,
but it is addictive.
919
00:39:02,618 --> 00:39:04,618
'When chewed to excess,
its staining red colour
920
00:39:04,658 --> 00:39:04,778
'When chewed to excess,
its staining red colour
921
00:39:04,818 --> 00:39:06,818
'can leave you
with a very distinctive smile.
922
00:39:06,858 --> 00:39:07,658
'can leave you
with a very distinctive smile.
923
00:39:07,698 --> 00:39:09,698
'So I might try this just the once.'
924
00:39:09,738 --> 00:39:10,378
'So I might try this just the once.'
925
00:39:11,738 --> 00:39:12,818
HE CHUCKLES
926
00:39:12,858 --> 00:39:14,858
The betel nut taste like a wood.
927
00:39:14,898 --> 00:39:15,138
The betel nut taste like a wood.
928
00:39:15,178 --> 00:39:17,178
So it's like chewing furniture. OK.
In it goes.
929
00:39:17,218 --> 00:39:19,098
So it's like chewing furniture. OK.
In it goes.
930
00:39:21,858 --> 00:39:23,858
It's very aromatic.
931
00:39:23,898 --> 00:39:24,778
It's very aromatic.
932
00:39:24,818 --> 00:39:26,818
And it's quite...
It numbs. It makes...
933
00:39:26,858 --> 00:39:28,098
And it's quite...
It numbs. It makes...
934
00:39:28,138 --> 00:39:30,138
Yeah.
Numbs, yes. Right.
935
00:39:30,178 --> 00:39:30,458
Yeah.
Numbs, yes. Right.
936
00:39:30,498 --> 00:39:31,818
SLURRED: So I'm now numb there...
937
00:39:41,738 --> 00:39:43,738
SOUTHERN DRAWL: I am in paradise.
938
00:39:43,778 --> 00:39:44,138
SOUTHERN DRAWL: I am in paradise.
939
00:39:44,178 --> 00:39:45,258
JOANNA CHUCKLES
940
00:39:45,298 --> 00:39:47,298
Thank you so much.
Thank you so much!
941
00:39:47,338 --> 00:39:48,458
Thank you so much.
Thank you so much!
942
00:39:55,618 --> 00:39:57,618
I'm hungry. Look at this!
943
00:39:57,658 --> 00:39:58,098
I'm hungry. Look at this!
944
00:39:58,138 --> 00:40:00,138
Even if you are not hungry,
I am hungry.
945
00:40:00,178 --> 00:40:00,658
Even if you are not hungry,
I am hungry.
946
00:40:00,698 --> 00:40:02,658
Oh, how gorgeous.
Little bit of that.
947
00:40:02,698 --> 00:40:03,738
Khatkhate.
948
00:40:03,778 --> 00:40:05,578
And that's a sort of vegetabley...?
Yes.
949
00:40:05,618 --> 00:40:07,618
Oh, my gosh. Look at that.
950
00:40:07,658 --> 00:40:09,218
So, usually you would eat
with fingers,
951
00:40:09,258 --> 00:40:11,258
maybe take a chapati or rice
and do it.
952
00:40:11,298 --> 00:40:12,298
maybe take a chapati or rice
and do it.
953
00:40:12,338 --> 00:40:14,338
I'm unskilled at that.
I've had some paan, to be honest.
954
00:40:14,378 --> 00:40:14,738
I'm unskilled at that.
I've had some paan, to be honest.
955
00:40:14,778 --> 00:40:16,578
I've been chewing betel nut
all afternoon,
956
00:40:16,618 --> 00:40:18,058
so I'm not completely safe.
957
00:40:21,018 --> 00:40:22,578
This is divine.
958
00:40:22,618 --> 00:40:24,618
There are around 2 million Goans,
959
00:40:24,658 --> 00:40:25,298
There are around 2 million Goans,
960
00:40:25,338 --> 00:40:27,338
but up to 7 million tourists
flock here each year,
961
00:40:27,378 --> 00:40:29,378
but up to 7 million tourists
flock here each year,
962
00:40:29,418 --> 00:40:29,698
but up to 7 million tourists
flock here each year,
963
00:40:29,738 --> 00:40:31,738
attracted, understandably,
to its stunning beaches.
964
00:40:31,778 --> 00:40:32,938
attracted, understandably,
to its stunning beaches.
965
00:40:34,778 --> 00:40:36,778
And now my spice trail
is leading me south,
966
00:40:36,818 --> 00:40:37,938
And now my spice trail
is leading me south,
967
00:40:37,978 --> 00:40:39,978
to the fertile lands of Kerala.
968
00:40:40,018 --> 00:40:40,338
to the fertile lands of Kerala.
969
00:40:40,378 --> 00:40:42,378
But first,
I've begged to meet a living legend.
970
00:40:42,418 --> 00:40:44,018
But first,
I've begged to meet a living legend.
971
00:40:50,618 --> 00:40:52,618
Meenakshi Amma
is a great-grandmother
972
00:40:52,658 --> 00:40:53,578
Meenakshi Amma
is a great-grandmother
973
00:40:53,618 --> 00:40:55,618
who runs this school
of Kalarippayattu,
974
00:40:55,658 --> 00:40:56,618
who runs this school
of Kalarippayattu,
975
00:40:56,658 --> 00:40:58,658
one of the oldest martial arts
in the world.
976
00:40:58,698 --> 00:40:58,938
one of the oldest martial arts
in the world.
977
00:41:00,578 --> 00:41:02,578
SHE SPEAKS OWN LANGUAGE
978
00:41:02,618 --> 00:41:03,178
SHE SPEAKS OWN LANGUAGE
979
00:41:05,258 --> 00:41:06,778
Alaka?
Hi.
980
00:41:06,818 --> 00:41:08,818
Hello. I'm Joanna.
Very nice to meet you.
981
00:41:08,858 --> 00:41:09,298
Hello. I'm Joanna.
Very nice to meet you.
982
00:41:09,338 --> 00:41:11,338
Oh, Alaka, this is exciting.
Look at all this.
983
00:41:11,378 --> 00:41:11,818
Oh, Alaka, this is exciting.
Look at all this.
984
00:41:14,898 --> 00:41:16,898
Well, let me see this little baby.
JOANNA GASPS
985
00:41:16,938 --> 00:41:17,778
Well, let me see this little baby.
JOANNA GASPS
986
00:41:18,778 --> 00:41:20,778
And you are
Meenakshi's granddaughter?
987
00:41:20,818 --> 00:41:21,338
And you are
Meenakshi's granddaughter?
988
00:41:21,378 --> 00:41:23,138
And this is her great-granddaughter?
Yeah.
989
00:41:23,178 --> 00:41:25,018
So, how old is your grandmother?
990
00:41:25,058 --> 00:41:27,058
She's 80 now. Eight-zero.
991
00:41:27,098 --> 00:41:27,618
She's 80 now. Eight-zero.
992
00:41:27,658 --> 00:41:28,818
Eighty! Eighty. Is she?
993
00:41:28,858 --> 00:41:30,458
And she's still holding
these classes.
994
00:41:30,498 --> 00:41:32,498
Yes, she's here,
teaching the students.
995
00:41:32,538 --> 00:41:33,498
Yes, she's here,
teaching the students.
996
00:41:33,538 --> 00:41:35,538
Meenakshi has been teaching here
since 1979.
997
00:41:35,578 --> 00:41:37,418
Meenakshi has been teaching here
since 1979.
998
00:41:37,458 --> 00:41:39,218
She still has
over a hundred students
999
00:41:39,258 --> 00:41:41,258
who come every week,
eager to take in some of her wisdom.
1000
00:41:41,298 --> 00:41:42,978
who come every week,
eager to take in some of her wisdom.
1001
00:41:43,018 --> 00:41:44,138
SHE SPEAKS OWN LANGUAGE
1002
00:41:44,178 --> 00:41:45,218
She's been honoured
1003
00:41:45,258 --> 00:41:47,258
with countless awards
and recognitions.
1004
00:41:47,298 --> 00:41:48,178
with countless awards
and recognitions.
1005
00:41:48,218 --> 00:41:50,218
You see these
very lethal-looking ones?
1006
00:41:50,258 --> 00:41:51,338
You see these
very lethal-looking ones?
1007
00:41:51,378 --> 00:41:53,378
My mother, as a great-grandmother,
had one of these under her pillow
1008
00:41:53,418 --> 00:41:55,058
My mother, as a great-grandmother,
had one of these under her pillow
1009
00:41:55,098 --> 00:41:57,098
cos she was a child
brought up in India and so on,
1010
00:41:57,138 --> 00:41:57,258
cos she was a child
brought up in India and so on,
1011
00:41:57,298 --> 00:41:58,938
in case an intruder
came into the house,
1012
00:41:58,978 --> 00:42:00,178
and she'd give him that.
1013
00:42:00,218 --> 00:42:02,218
Do you think it's something to do
with being a great-granny
1014
00:42:02,258 --> 00:42:02,858
Do you think it's something to do
with being a great-granny
1015
00:42:02,898 --> 00:42:04,898
that makes you slightly more
sort of capable?
1016
00:42:04,938 --> 00:42:05,578
that makes you slightly more
sort of capable?
1017
00:42:05,618 --> 00:42:07,338
Let's put it like that.
1018
00:42:07,378 --> 00:42:08,498
I'm a granny at the moment,
1019
00:42:08,538 --> 00:42:10,538
and great-granny-hood
is ahead of me.
1020
00:42:10,578 --> 00:42:11,458
and great-granny-hood
is ahead of me.
1021
00:42:11,498 --> 00:42:13,498
So I'm looking for a decent dagger,
obviously, and I shall be prepared.
1022
00:42:13,538 --> 00:42:15,138
So I'm looking for a decent dagger,
obviously, and I shall be prepared.
1023
00:42:17,338 --> 00:42:19,338
Don't write grannies off, ever.
As for great-grannies...
1024
00:42:19,378 --> 00:42:20,058
Don't write grannies off, ever.
As for great-grannies...
1025
00:42:20,098 --> 00:42:21,178
Phew.
1026
00:42:22,458 --> 00:42:24,458
That's Meenakshi.
Meenakshi, this is wonderful.
1027
00:42:24,498 --> 00:42:26,458
That's Meenakshi.
Meenakshi, this is wonderful.
1028
00:42:26,498 --> 00:42:28,498
I'm such an admirer already.
1029
00:42:28,538 --> 00:42:29,018
I'm such an admirer already.
1030
00:42:29,058 --> 00:42:31,058
I'm very near your age.
1031
00:42:31,098 --> 00:42:31,578
I'm very near your age.
1032
00:42:31,618 --> 00:42:33,498
How old are you?
Seventy-six.
1033
00:42:33,538 --> 00:42:35,338
Seventy-six.
I'm chasing you.
1034
00:42:35,378 --> 00:42:37,378
ALL LAUGH
1035
00:42:37,418 --> 00:42:37,618
ALL LAUGH
1036
00:42:37,658 --> 00:42:39,658
You became involved with this
when you were a young girl.
1037
00:42:39,698 --> 00:42:40,658
You became involved with this
when you were a young girl.
1038
00:42:53,578 --> 00:42:54,898
You can see...
I can see.
1039
00:42:54,938 --> 00:42:56,098
I don't have to tell you.
1040
00:42:56,138 --> 00:42:58,138
You look about 50.
I mean, it's ridiculous.
1041
00:42:58,178 --> 00:42:58,738
You look about 50.
I mean, it's ridiculous.
1042
00:42:58,778 --> 00:43:00,618
Is there the tiniest little move
1043
00:43:00,658 --> 00:43:02,658
or something graceful I could do
that I could start?
1044
00:43:02,698 --> 00:43:04,058
or something graceful I could do
that I could start?
1045
00:43:04,098 --> 00:43:05,498
What would be a little tiny...?
1046
00:43:05,538 --> 00:43:06,858
SPEAKS OWN LANGUAGE
1047
00:43:06,898 --> 00:43:08,898
GIVES COMMAND
IN OWN LANGUAGE
1048
00:43:08,938 --> 00:43:09,218
GIVES COMMAND
IN OWN LANGUAGE
1049
00:43:09,258 --> 00:43:10,698
Yeah. Yeah.
1050
00:43:11,698 --> 00:43:13,698
No, sorry, darling.
Sorry, probably can't do that.
1051
00:43:13,738 --> 00:43:15,698
No, sorry, darling.
Sorry, probably can't do that.
1052
00:43:15,738 --> 00:43:17,738
I know, I know, I know.
LAUGHTER
1053
00:43:17,778 --> 00:43:19,258
I know, I know, I know.
LAUGHTER
1054
00:43:19,298 --> 00:43:20,618
I can't do that, darling.
1055
00:43:20,658 --> 00:43:22,018
So full of admiration.
1056
00:43:22,058 --> 00:43:23,778
You can see
how this will present somebody
1057
00:43:23,818 --> 00:43:25,818
who is completely unafraid
of the world.
1058
00:43:25,858 --> 00:43:26,818
who is completely unafraid
of the world.
1059
00:43:26,858 --> 00:43:28,858
I think it brings you
a kind of confidence...
1060
00:43:28,898 --> 00:43:29,018
I think it brings you
a kind of confidence...
1061
00:43:29,058 --> 00:43:30,898
That's definitely it.
..which would... Yeah.
1062
00:43:30,938 --> 00:43:32,938
So you don't have to fight anybody,
cos they won't fight you.Yeah.
1063
00:43:32,978 --> 00:43:33,858
So you don't have to fight anybody,
cos they won't fight you.Yeah.
1064
00:43:39,498 --> 00:43:40,618
Phew.
1065
00:43:53,454 --> 00:43:55,454
Kerala means "the land of coconuts."
1066
00:43:55,494 --> 00:43:55,934
Kerala means "the land of coconuts."
1067
00:43:57,814 --> 00:43:59,814
We've already travelled
over a thousand kilometres
1068
00:43:59,854 --> 00:44:00,734
We've already travelled
over a thousand kilometres
1069
00:44:00,774 --> 00:44:02,334
on the southern Indian spice trail,
1070
00:44:02,374 --> 00:44:04,374
and some therapeutic TLC
sounds like heaven.
1071
00:44:04,414 --> 00:44:06,174
and some therapeutic TLC
sounds like heaven.
1072
00:44:07,534 --> 00:44:09,334
There is an Ayurvedic treatment
1073
00:44:09,374 --> 00:44:11,374
which is used
by 80% of the population here.
1074
00:44:11,414 --> 00:44:13,334
which is used
by 80% of the population here.
1075
00:44:13,374 --> 00:44:15,374
Ayurdara is an Ayurvedic centre
reached by ferry on Vypin island.
1076
00:44:15,414 --> 00:44:17,414
Ayurdara is an Ayurvedic centre
reached by ferry on Vypin island.
1077
00:44:17,454 --> 00:44:17,894
Ayurdara is an Ayurvedic centre
reached by ferry on Vypin island.
1078
00:44:17,934 --> 00:44:18,974
But before they see me,
1079
00:44:19,014 --> 00:44:21,014
they wanted
a very in-depth picture
1080
00:44:21,054 --> 00:44:21,254
they wanted
a very in-depth picture
1081
00:44:21,294 --> 00:44:23,174
of what type of person I am.
1082
00:44:23,214 --> 00:44:25,214
Some of the questions
are quite challenging.
1083
00:44:25,254 --> 00:44:25,774
Some of the questions
are quite challenging.
1084
00:44:25,814 --> 00:44:27,814
"I'm enthusiastic and vivacious
by nature." Yeah, that's me.
1085
00:44:27,854 --> 00:44:28,574
"I'm enthusiastic and vivacious
by nature." Yeah, that's me.
1086
00:44:28,614 --> 00:44:30,614
"My energy tends to come in bursts.
1087
00:44:30,654 --> 00:44:31,014
"My energy tends to come in bursts.
1088
00:44:31,054 --> 00:44:32,134
"I'm easily excitable."
1089
00:44:32,174 --> 00:44:34,174
I was going, "Oh, blimey,
this sounds like a strange one."
1090
00:44:34,214 --> 00:44:35,014
I was going, "Oh, blimey,
this sounds like a strange one."
1091
00:44:35,054 --> 00:44:36,854
"Even though
I might not always show it,
1092
00:44:36,894 --> 00:44:38,894
"I become irritable or angry
quite easily.
1093
00:44:38,934 --> 00:44:40,054
"I become irritable or angry
quite easily.
1094
00:44:40,094 --> 00:44:42,094
"I don't tolerate foods
that are very hot or spicy."
1095
00:44:42,134 --> 00:44:42,774
"I don't tolerate foods
that are very hot or spicy."
1096
00:44:42,814 --> 00:44:44,454
Well, I do, I adore them.
1097
00:44:44,494 --> 00:44:46,494
"I've a large, solid body build."
1098
00:44:46,534 --> 00:44:46,734
"I've a large, solid body build."
1099
00:44:46,774 --> 00:44:48,774
I've sort of turned into a walrus,
and I'm going...
1100
00:44:48,814 --> 00:44:50,454
I've sort of turned into a walrus,
and I'm going...
1101
00:44:50,494 --> 00:44:52,094
This might be me. I don't know.
1102
00:44:52,134 --> 00:44:53,694
I mean,
I don't know how to judge myself.
1103
00:44:53,734 --> 00:44:55,294
And so I sort of half-ticked it,
1104
00:44:55,334 --> 00:44:56,934
in case when I get there, they go,
1105
00:44:56,974 --> 00:44:58,974
"You are a fat, blobby person.
Why didn't you tick this?"
1106
00:44:59,014 --> 00:44:59,814
"You are a fat, blobby person.
Why didn't you tick this?"
1107
00:44:59,854 --> 00:45:01,774
I'm so overexcited,
I can't tell you.
1108
00:45:01,814 --> 00:45:03,814
They're gonna cure me
of everything that's wrong anyway.
1109
00:45:03,854 --> 00:45:04,294
They're gonna cure me
of everything that's wrong anyway.
1110
00:45:04,334 --> 00:45:06,174
Everything's going to be cured.
Nearly there.
1111
00:45:12,174 --> 00:45:14,174
Away from the bustle
of the ferry port,
1112
00:45:14,214 --> 00:45:14,654
Away from the bustle
of the ferry port,
1113
00:45:14,694 --> 00:45:16,694
Ayurdara is a haven of tranquillity.
1114
00:45:16,734 --> 00:45:17,374
Ayurdara is a haven of tranquillity.
1115
00:45:18,454 --> 00:45:20,454
'Dr Jyotsna
is going to interpret my answers
1116
00:45:20,494 --> 00:45:21,774
'Dr Jyotsna
is going to interpret my answers
1117
00:45:21,814 --> 00:45:23,814
'and tell me all about
the principles of Ayurveda.'
1118
00:45:23,854 --> 00:45:25,094
'and tell me all about
the principles of Ayurveda.'
1119
00:45:25,134 --> 00:45:27,134
This is so good of you to see me.
1120
00:45:27,174 --> 00:45:27,854
This is so good of you to see me.
1121
00:45:27,894 --> 00:45:29,894
And what a peaceful
and wonderful place you have here.
1122
00:45:29,934 --> 00:45:30,774
And what a peaceful
and wonderful place you have here.
1123
00:45:30,814 --> 00:45:31,894
Thank you.
1124
00:45:31,934 --> 00:45:33,934
You must explain to me,
what is Ayurvedic treatment?
1125
00:45:33,974 --> 00:45:34,774
You must explain to me,
what is Ayurvedic treatment?
1126
00:45:34,814 --> 00:45:36,814
Ah. So, the very basic
of Ayurveda is the doshas.
1127
00:45:36,854 --> 00:45:38,854
Ah. So, the very basic
of Ayurveda is the doshas.
1128
00:45:38,894 --> 00:45:39,814
Ah. So, the very basic
of Ayurveda is the doshas.
1129
00:45:39,854 --> 00:45:41,854
So these are the bioenergies
in your system.
1130
00:45:41,894 --> 00:45:42,854
So these are the bioenergies
in your system.
1131
00:45:42,894 --> 00:45:44,054
So sweet. You've got me down.
1132
00:45:44,094 --> 00:45:46,014
I'm already one of your cases,
am I not?
1133
00:45:46,054 --> 00:45:47,294
THEY LAUGH
1134
00:45:47,334 --> 00:45:49,334
Will you explain to me
about the three doshas?
1135
00:45:49,374 --> 00:45:49,654
Will you explain to me
about the three doshas?
1136
00:45:49,694 --> 00:45:51,694
What exactly...?
Because in all kinds of beliefs,
1137
00:45:51,734 --> 00:45:52,614
What exactly...?
Because in all kinds of beliefs,
1138
00:45:52,654 --> 00:45:54,494
there are earth, air, fire, water.
1139
00:45:54,534 --> 00:45:56,534
Is that what the doshas are?
Yeah, it is.
1140
00:45:56,574 --> 00:45:57,134
Is that what the doshas are?
Yeah, it is.
1141
00:45:57,174 --> 00:45:59,174
We have the air-space combination,
vata.
1142
00:45:59,214 --> 00:46:01,214
We have the air-space combination,
vata.
1143
00:46:01,254 --> 00:46:01,654
We have the air-space combination,
vata.
1144
00:46:01,694 --> 00:46:03,054
Like air.
1145
00:46:03,094 --> 00:46:05,094
We cannot contain the air
inside our hand. No.
1146
00:46:05,134 --> 00:46:07,134
We cannot contain the air
inside our hand. No.
1147
00:46:07,174 --> 00:46:08,174
We cannot contain the air
inside our hand. No.
1148
00:46:08,214 --> 00:46:10,214
They might be very creative,
1149
00:46:10,254 --> 00:46:10,814
They might be very creative,
1150
00:46:10,854 --> 00:46:12,854
but they might be jumping
from one thought to another
1151
00:46:12,894 --> 00:46:13,934
but they might be jumping
from one thought to another
1152
00:46:13,974 --> 00:46:15,054
all of a sudden.
1153
00:46:15,094 --> 00:46:17,094
Like a butterfly.
Yeah. Exactly.
1154
00:46:17,134 --> 00:46:17,614
Like a butterfly.
Yeah. Exactly.
1155
00:46:17,654 --> 00:46:19,654
What was it, pitta?
Pitta.
1156
00:46:19,694 --> 00:46:19,814
What was it, pitta?
Pitta.
1157
00:46:19,854 --> 00:46:21,534
Which is fire.
Fire. Exactly.
1158
00:46:21,574 --> 00:46:23,214
Hot.
Hot.
1159
00:46:23,254 --> 00:46:25,254
So they have
a very strong personality.
1160
00:46:25,294 --> 00:46:25,414
So they have
a very strong personality.
1161
00:46:25,454 --> 00:46:27,454
If they have an opinion
about something,
1162
00:46:27,494 --> 00:46:28,094
If they have an opinion
about something,
1163
00:46:28,134 --> 00:46:30,134
it's a little difficult
to change them.
1164
00:46:30,174 --> 00:46:30,494
it's a little difficult
to change them.
1165
00:46:30,534 --> 00:46:32,054
Stubborn.
Very stubborn.
1166
00:46:32,094 --> 00:46:34,094
Oh.
But it is good professionally.
1167
00:46:34,134 --> 00:46:34,734
Oh.
But it is good professionally.
1168
00:46:34,774 --> 00:46:36,774
They are kind of perfectionists.
Ah.
1169
00:46:36,814 --> 00:46:37,454
They are kind of perfectionists.
Ah.
1170
00:46:37,494 --> 00:46:39,494
Kapha, the water, earth,
the heavier elements.
1171
00:46:39,534 --> 00:46:40,414
Kapha, the water, earth,
the heavier elements.
1172
00:46:40,454 --> 00:46:42,254
What kind of a character
is that going to be?
1173
00:46:42,294 --> 00:46:44,214
You will always feel grounded.
1174
00:46:44,254 --> 00:46:46,254
You can feel that calm disposition
in them.
1175
00:46:46,294 --> 00:46:47,894
You can feel that calm disposition
in them.
1176
00:46:47,934 --> 00:46:49,854
They tend to gain weight easily,
1177
00:46:49,894 --> 00:46:51,894
but they have
a very good long-term memory.
1178
00:46:51,934 --> 00:46:52,574
but they have
a very good long-term memory.
1179
00:46:52,614 --> 00:46:54,614
It stays.
Yeah, it stays in their brain.
1180
00:46:54,654 --> 00:46:54,934
It stays.
Yeah, it stays in their brain.
1181
00:46:54,974 --> 00:46:56,974
And if you look at me, can you tell
by my physique and the way I am?
1182
00:46:57,014 --> 00:46:59,014
And if you look at me, can you tell
by my physique and the way I am?
1183
00:46:59,054 --> 00:46:59,294
And if you look at me, can you tell
by my physique and the way I am?
1184
00:46:59,334 --> 00:47:01,334
You can tell already.
Look, your eyes are looking at me.
1185
00:47:01,374 --> 00:47:01,694
You can tell already.
Look, your eyes are looking at me.
1186
00:47:01,734 --> 00:47:03,094
You can see I'm rotting away.
1187
00:47:03,134 --> 00:47:05,134
No, you look healthy.
Yeah, you look beautiful.
1188
00:47:05,174 --> 00:47:07,174
No, you look healthy.
Yeah, you look beautiful.
1189
00:47:07,214 --> 00:47:07,374
No, you look healthy.
Yeah, you look beautiful.
1190
00:47:07,414 --> 00:47:08,494
Oh, bless you.
1191
00:47:08,534 --> 00:47:10,534
So, when I look at you, physically,
you're, like, a medium build.
1192
00:47:10,574 --> 00:47:12,254
So, when I look at you, physically,
you're, like, a medium build.
1193
00:47:12,294 --> 00:47:14,294
I would've said.
So that shows the pitta in you.
1194
00:47:14,334 --> 00:47:16,094
I would've said.
So that shows the pitta in you.
1195
00:47:16,134 --> 00:47:18,134
And again, when I talk to you,
1196
00:47:18,174 --> 00:47:18,774
And again, when I talk to you,
1197
00:47:18,814 --> 00:47:20,814
I can feel the calmness
when I interact with you.
1198
00:47:20,854 --> 00:47:21,054
I can feel the calmness
when I interact with you.
1199
00:47:21,094 --> 00:47:23,094
You are a person who is shining
with that kind of energy.
1200
00:47:23,134 --> 00:47:24,534
You are a person who is shining
with that kind of energy.
1201
00:47:24,574 --> 00:47:26,574
So that's very beautiful about you.
1202
00:47:26,614 --> 00:47:26,694
So that's very beautiful about you.
1203
00:47:26,734 --> 00:47:28,734
I used to be always the thin,
the wiry, the fast, the fun...
1204
00:47:28,774 --> 00:47:29,374
I used to be always the thin,
the wiry, the fast, the fun...
1205
00:47:29,414 --> 00:47:31,214
Thin?
Yes, well, lean.
1206
00:47:31,254 --> 00:47:33,094
Yeah, lean.
Bony.
1207
00:47:33,134 --> 00:47:35,134
And now I've turned
into Mrs Blob, Bloblet.
1208
00:47:35,174 --> 00:47:35,774
And now I've turned
into Mrs Blob, Bloblet.
1209
00:47:35,814 --> 00:47:37,814
So I dunno how that happened.
Dosha might have changed.
1210
00:47:37,854 --> 00:47:38,254
So I dunno how that happened.
Dosha might have changed.
1211
00:47:38,294 --> 00:47:40,294
What can you do for me?
I want you to make me better.
1212
00:47:40,334 --> 00:47:40,934
What can you do for me?
I want you to make me better.
1213
00:47:40,974 --> 00:47:42,534
OK.
1214
00:47:42,574 --> 00:47:44,574
So, thought it would be a good idea
to do a powder massage,
1215
00:47:44,614 --> 00:47:45,494
So, thought it would be a good idea
to do a powder massage,
1216
00:47:45,534 --> 00:47:47,534
because that reduces
that sensation of sluggishness.
1217
00:47:47,574 --> 00:47:49,574
because that reduces
that sensation of sluggishness.
1218
00:47:49,614 --> 00:47:49,774
because that reduces
that sensation of sluggishness.
1219
00:47:49,814 --> 00:47:50,894
How wonderful.
1220
00:47:50,934 --> 00:47:52,934
And what a beautiful house
this looks.
1221
00:47:52,974 --> 00:47:53,214
And what a beautiful house
this looks.
1222
00:47:53,254 --> 00:47:55,254
Thank you.
This looks Himalayan.
1223
00:47:55,294 --> 00:47:55,454
Thank you.
This looks Himalayan.
1224
00:47:55,494 --> 00:47:56,534
Please come this way.
1225
00:47:56,574 --> 00:47:58,574
So, there is a special treatment
going on here.
1226
00:47:58,614 --> 00:48:00,454
So, there is a special treatment
going on here.
1227
00:48:00,494 --> 00:48:01,694
JOANNA GASPS
1228
00:48:01,734 --> 00:48:03,734
So this is called Shirodhara.
1229
00:48:03,774 --> 00:48:03,854
So this is called Shirodhara.
1230
00:48:03,894 --> 00:48:05,894
This is oil dripping therapy.
1231
00:48:05,934 --> 00:48:06,814
This is oil dripping therapy.
1232
00:48:06,854 --> 00:48:08,854
Helps you to calm down this vata,
the imbalance.
1233
00:48:08,894 --> 00:48:10,694
Helps you to calm down this vata,
the imbalance.
1234
00:48:10,734 --> 00:48:12,734
Lovely, like a little cradle
swinging just gently, gently.
1235
00:48:12,774 --> 00:48:13,894
Lovely, like a little cradle
swinging just gently, gently.
1236
00:48:13,934 --> 00:48:15,614
Exactly.
1237
00:48:15,654 --> 00:48:17,654
It won't be quite the same
at home with my baby oil
1238
00:48:17,694 --> 00:48:18,534
It won't be quite the same
at home with my baby oil
1239
00:48:18,574 --> 00:48:20,334
and doing it like this.
DR JYOTSNA LAUGHS
1240
00:48:20,374 --> 00:48:22,374
It's mesmerically calming
just to watch it.
1241
00:48:22,414 --> 00:48:22,894
It's mesmerically calming
just to watch it.
1242
00:48:30,894 --> 00:48:32,774
So they will be doing
1243
00:48:32,814 --> 00:48:34,814
a very gentle powder massage
on your arm.
1244
00:48:34,854 --> 00:48:36,854
a very gentle powder massage
on your arm.
1245
00:48:36,894 --> 00:48:37,134
a very gentle powder massage
on your arm.
1246
00:48:39,374 --> 00:48:40,814
How do you feel?
1247
00:48:40,854 --> 00:48:42,854
It feels like sand.
Ah.
1248
00:48:42,894 --> 00:48:43,534
It feels like sand.
Ah.
1249
00:48:45,614 --> 00:48:47,334
It's rather like
being at the seaside
1250
00:48:47,374 --> 00:48:49,374
when you're getting the sand
off your feet.
1251
00:48:49,414 --> 00:48:51,414
It helps to feel more energetic.
1252
00:48:51,454 --> 00:48:53,174
It helps to feel more energetic.
1253
00:48:53,214 --> 00:48:54,294
Oh, wonderful.
1254
00:48:54,334 --> 00:48:56,334
I want to have this written
into my contracts now.
1255
00:48:56,374 --> 00:48:57,094
I want to have this written
into my contracts now.
1256
00:48:57,134 --> 00:48:59,054
I'd like to lie down
at least once a day
1257
00:48:59,094 --> 00:49:01,094
and be rubbed with spices.
1258
00:49:01,134 --> 00:49:01,654
and be rubbed with spices.
1259
00:49:05,494 --> 00:49:07,374
I'm taking a moment to reflect,
1260
00:49:07,414 --> 00:49:09,414
and to apologise
to the lady who had the oil dripping
1261
00:49:09,454 --> 00:49:11,454
and to apologise
to the lady who had the oil dripping
1262
00:49:11,494 --> 00:49:11,614
and to apologise
to the lady who had the oil dripping
1263
00:49:11,654 --> 00:49:13,334
for gate-crashing her treatment.
1264
00:49:14,854 --> 00:49:16,854
We both feel invigorated
and beautifully serene.
1265
00:49:16,894 --> 00:49:18,374
We both feel invigorated
and beautifully serene.
1266
00:49:22,614 --> 00:49:24,494
CAR HORNS HONKING
1267
00:49:26,374 --> 00:49:28,374
But my quest to learn about
the history of spices must continue.
1268
00:49:28,414 --> 00:49:30,414
But my quest to learn about
the history of spices must continue.
1269
00:49:30,454 --> 00:49:30,774
But my quest to learn about
the history of spices must continue.
1270
00:49:30,814 --> 00:49:32,814
I'm back over the water
in Mattancherry, Kochi's old town,
1271
00:49:32,854 --> 00:49:34,494
I'm back over the water
in Mattancherry, Kochi's old town,
1272
00:49:34,534 --> 00:49:36,534
where lots of colonial-era buildings
are still intact.
1273
00:49:36,574 --> 00:49:38,414
where lots of colonial-era buildings
are still intact.
1274
00:49:38,454 --> 00:49:40,454
This old spice-processing
and wholesalers' market
1275
00:49:40,494 --> 00:49:41,174
This old spice-processing
and wholesalers' market
1276
00:49:41,214 --> 00:49:43,214
was built in the early 1700s
and is still in operation.
1277
00:49:43,254 --> 00:49:45,254
was built in the early 1700s
and is still in operation.
1278
00:49:45,294 --> 00:49:45,454
was built in the early 1700s
and is still in operation.
1279
00:49:45,494 --> 00:49:47,494
One of India's main spice exports
now is ginger.
1280
00:49:47,534 --> 00:49:49,534
One of India's main spice exports
now is ginger.
1281
00:49:49,574 --> 00:49:50,694
One of India's main spice exports
now is ginger.
1282
00:49:50,734 --> 00:49:52,414
It's coated in a lime solution
1283
00:49:52,454 --> 00:49:54,374
and dried in the sun
in the courtyard.
1284
00:49:55,374 --> 00:49:57,374
These skilled local women
are sorting the big bits for export
1285
00:49:57,414 --> 00:49:58,894
These skilled local women
are sorting the big bits for export
1286
00:49:58,934 --> 00:50:00,934
from the smaller bits
that will be ground into powder.
1287
00:50:00,974 --> 00:50:01,974
from the smaller bits
that will be ground into powder.
1288
00:50:05,174 --> 00:50:07,174
Namaste, ladies. Hello.
1289
00:50:07,214 --> 00:50:07,414
Namaste, ladies. Hello.
1290
00:50:07,454 --> 00:50:09,454
'Brimming with Ayurvedic energy
and zest,
1291
00:50:09,494 --> 00:50:10,094
'Brimming with Ayurvedic energy
and zest,
1292
00:50:10,134 --> 00:50:12,134
'I'm keen to get
at the helm myself.'
1293
00:50:12,174 --> 00:50:12,494
'I'm keen to get
at the helm myself.'
1294
00:50:12,534 --> 00:50:14,294
JOANNA LAUGHS
1295
00:50:14,334 --> 00:50:16,334
So this way. One, two, two, three.
1296
00:50:16,374 --> 00:50:17,214
So this way. One, two, two, three.
1297
00:50:18,254 --> 00:50:20,254
So already, as you can see,
production line is slowing.
1298
00:50:20,294 --> 00:50:21,454
So already, as you can see,
production line is slowing.
1299
00:50:21,494 --> 00:50:23,494
LAUGHTER
1300
00:50:23,534 --> 00:50:23,654
LAUGHTER
1301
00:50:26,574 --> 00:50:28,574
And then once like that.
And then... And then biff.
1302
00:50:28,614 --> 00:50:30,614
And then once like that.
And then... And then biff.
1303
00:50:30,654 --> 00:50:31,054
And then once like that.
And then... And then biff.
1304
00:50:31,094 --> 00:50:32,974
As impressive as that was,
1305
00:50:33,014 --> 00:50:34,974
they clearly want it
straight back off me.
1306
00:50:36,174 --> 00:50:38,174
And I've got a train to catch.
1307
00:50:38,214 --> 00:50:38,494
And I've got a train to catch.
1308
00:50:38,534 --> 00:50:40,534
It's just a short tuk-tuk ride
to the station.
1309
00:50:40,574 --> 00:50:41,414
It's just a short tuk-tuk ride
to the station.
1310
00:50:46,214 --> 00:50:48,054
What is your name?
My name Habib.
1311
00:50:48,094 --> 00:50:49,334
Habib, I'm Joanna.
1312
00:50:49,374 --> 00:50:51,174
Nice to meet you, ma'am.
Thank you.
1313
00:50:52,774 --> 00:50:54,334
Do you come from Kochi?
1314
00:50:54,374 --> 00:50:56,374
I come Kochi, I born Kochi.
Ah-huh.
1315
00:50:56,414 --> 00:50:56,734
I come Kochi, I born Kochi.
Ah-huh.
1316
00:50:56,774 --> 00:50:58,574
My grandfather stay in Kochi.
1317
00:50:58,614 --> 00:50:59,894
Well.
Oh, yeah.
1318
00:50:59,934 --> 00:51:01,934
Do you singing the older songs,
you like?
1319
00:51:01,974 --> 00:51:02,094
Do you singing the older songs,
you like?
1320
00:51:02,134 --> 00:51:04,134
I love them. Do you sing?
Pick a song, one song?
1321
00:51:04,174 --> 00:51:04,694
I love them. Do you sing?
Pick a song, one song?
1322
00:51:04,734 --> 00:51:06,574
Yes, please!
OK.
1323
00:51:06,614 --> 00:51:08,614
SINGS IN OWN LANGUAGE
1324
00:51:08,654 --> 00:51:08,734
SINGS IN OWN LANGUAGE
1325
00:51:40,974 --> 00:51:42,974
I love looking out
of train windows
1326
00:51:43,014 --> 00:51:43,494
I love looking out
of train windows
1327
00:51:43,534 --> 00:51:45,534
into people's lives,
their back gardens,
1328
00:51:45,574 --> 00:51:46,294
into people's lives,
their back gardens,
1329
00:51:46,334 --> 00:51:48,254
and sometimes glimpses
into their houses.
1330
00:51:48,294 --> 00:51:50,294
And you see here temples
and little areas swept clean.
1331
00:51:50,334 --> 00:51:52,334
And you see here temples
and little areas swept clean.
1332
00:51:52,374 --> 00:51:52,574
And you see here temples
and little areas swept clean.
1333
00:51:52,614 --> 00:51:54,614
Such a water-centred community,
1334
00:51:54,654 --> 00:51:54,734
Such a water-centred community,
1335
00:51:54,774 --> 00:51:56,694
you adapt
to live your life around it.
1336
00:51:56,734 --> 00:51:58,734
And so, obviously, paddy fields.
1337
00:51:58,774 --> 00:52:00,614
Obviously growing
a lot of rice around here.
1338
00:52:00,654 --> 00:52:02,654
Almost every household has a cow
under a tree for milk.
1339
00:52:02,694 --> 00:52:04,174
Almost every household has a cow
under a tree for milk.
1340
00:52:04,214 --> 00:52:06,214
So it's rural living,
absolutely beautiful.
1341
00:52:06,254 --> 00:52:06,654
So it's rural living,
absolutely beautiful.
1342
00:52:08,734 --> 00:52:10,454
The jewel in Kerala's crown
1343
00:52:10,494 --> 00:52:12,494
is an area
where lakes and rivers connect
1344
00:52:12,534 --> 00:52:12,654
is an area
where lakes and rivers connect
1345
00:52:12,694 --> 00:52:14,694
with countless smaller canals
and river islands
1346
00:52:14,734 --> 00:52:16,054
with countless smaller canals
and river islands
1347
00:52:16,094 --> 00:52:17,134
- the backwaters.
1348
00:52:19,334 --> 00:52:21,334
Lined along the water's edge here
are dozens of houseboats.
1349
00:52:21,374 --> 00:52:22,574
Lined along the water's edge here
are dozens of houseboats.
1350
00:52:23,774 --> 00:52:25,774
The one I'm staying on is made
in the old traditional style,
1351
00:52:25,814 --> 00:52:27,254
The one I'm staying on is made
in the old traditional style,
1352
00:52:27,294 --> 00:52:29,294
using palm wood and bamboo.
1353
00:52:29,334 --> 00:52:29,814
using palm wood and bamboo.
1354
00:52:29,854 --> 00:52:31,854
They were originally used
by old spice traders,
1355
00:52:31,894 --> 00:52:32,574
They were originally used
by old spice traders,
1356
00:52:32,614 --> 00:52:34,014
who needed to live on their boats
1357
00:52:34,054 --> 00:52:36,054
during the long journeys
to the markets.
1358
00:52:36,094 --> 00:52:36,654
during the long journeys
to the markets.
1359
00:52:38,094 --> 00:52:39,134
In recent years,
1360
00:52:39,174 --> 00:52:41,174
they've been repurposed
as a tourist experience,
1361
00:52:41,214 --> 00:52:41,774
they've been repurposed
as a tourist experience,
1362
00:52:41,814 --> 00:52:42,854
and you can see why.
1363
00:52:44,174 --> 00:52:46,174
Cruising on these boats
is simply enchanting.
1364
00:52:46,214 --> 00:52:47,494
Cruising on these boats
is simply enchanting.
1365
00:52:47,534 --> 00:52:49,534
And I've got a whole one to myself
to watch the sun go down.
1366
00:52:49,574 --> 00:52:51,574
And I've got a whole one to myself
to watch the sun go down.
1367
00:52:51,614 --> 00:52:51,734
And I've got a whole one to myself
to watch the sun go down.
1368
00:52:51,774 --> 00:52:53,774
MUSIC: 'Heleh'
by Mina Fatemi & Michael Tedstone
1369
00:52:53,814 --> 00:52:54,094
MUSIC: 'Heleh'
by Mina Fatemi & Michael Tedstone
1370
00:53:07,454 --> 00:53:09,094
And this is me.
1371
00:53:10,814 --> 00:53:12,814
No. Just me, guys. Thank you.
Good night.
1372
00:53:12,854 --> 00:53:14,214
No. Just me, guys. Thank you.
Good night.
1373
00:53:22,814 --> 00:53:24,814
On the last morning
of my Indian spice trail,
1374
00:53:24,854 --> 00:53:25,774
On the last morning
of my Indian spice trail,
1375
00:53:25,814 --> 00:53:27,814
I'm leaving the luxury
of a houseboat
1376
00:53:27,854 --> 00:53:28,094
I'm leaving the luxury
of a houseboat
1377
00:53:28,134 --> 00:53:29,254
to see how people live
1378
00:53:29,294 --> 00:53:31,294
in the more remote canals
of the backwaters.
1379
00:53:31,334 --> 00:53:32,294
in the more remote canals
of the backwaters.
1380
00:53:34,454 --> 00:53:36,134
You have to get
into a slightly smaller boat
1381
00:53:36,174 --> 00:53:37,934
and then maybe even a smaller boat.
1382
00:53:37,974 --> 00:53:39,974
I might even end up
by doggy paddling around the edge.
1383
00:53:40,014 --> 00:53:40,134
I might even end up
by doggy paddling around the edge.
1384
00:53:40,174 --> 00:53:42,174
I just want to see what it's like
living and working on these rivers.
1385
00:53:42,214 --> 00:53:43,214
I just want to see what it's like
living and working on these rivers.
1386
00:53:44,974 --> 00:53:46,974
{\an8}The people who live here,
it's just homes,
1387
00:53:47,014 --> 00:53:47,494
{\an8}The people who live here,
it's just homes,
1388
00:53:47,534 --> 00:53:48,894
everything they do every day.
1389
00:53:48,934 --> 00:53:50,934
It's completely normal
to have tumbling flowers
1390
00:53:50,974 --> 00:53:51,934
It's completely normal
to have tumbling flowers
1391
00:53:51,974 --> 00:53:53,974
going right down into a river
and coconuts growing like this.
1392
00:53:54,014 --> 00:53:55,414
going right down into a river
and coconuts growing like this.
1393
00:53:56,854 --> 00:53:58,374
I might just go small-small here,
1394
00:53:58,414 --> 00:54:00,414
because I just might just go down
to here
1395
00:54:00,454 --> 00:54:01,534
because I just might just go down
to here
1396
00:54:01,574 --> 00:54:03,574
because you can become
a bit boastful
1397
00:54:03,614 --> 00:54:03,734
because you can become
a bit boastful
1398
00:54:03,774 --> 00:54:05,614
and think you could do it,
and you couldn't.
1399
00:54:12,014 --> 00:54:14,014
There we are.
Getting onto my smaller small boat.
1400
00:54:14,054 --> 00:54:15,854
There we are.
Getting onto my smaller small boat.
1401
00:54:15,894 --> 00:54:17,694
'As the canals become narrower,
1402
00:54:17,734 --> 00:54:19,734
'the scenery
becomes even more stunning.
1403
00:54:19,774 --> 00:54:20,174
'the scenery
becomes even more stunning.
1404
00:54:21,574 --> 00:54:23,574
'And the water lilies unfurl
to salute the morning sun.'
1405
00:54:23,614 --> 00:54:25,214
'And the water lilies unfurl
to salute the morning sun.'
1406
00:54:29,694 --> 00:54:31,694
Honestly, you can't believe
that's real, it looks so perfect.
1407
00:54:31,734 --> 00:54:33,054
Honestly, you can't believe
that's real, it looks so perfect.
1408
00:54:34,654 --> 00:54:36,654
Sanjay has pointed me
in the direction of a lovely family.
1409
00:54:36,694 --> 00:54:38,494
Sanjay has pointed me
in the direction of a lovely family.
1410
00:54:38,534 --> 00:54:40,534
Mayar and her husband, Biju,
1411
00:54:40,574 --> 00:54:40,734
Mayar and her husband, Biju,
1412
00:54:40,774 --> 00:54:42,774
own a few acres of paddy fields
on their land
1413
00:54:42,814 --> 00:54:44,374
own a few acres of paddy fields
on their land
1414
00:54:44,414 --> 00:54:46,414
and are at the heart
of their canal-side community.
1415
00:54:46,454 --> 00:54:46,814
and are at the heart
of their canal-side community.
1416
00:54:48,254 --> 00:54:50,254
Namaste. Namaste. Good to see you.
Hello, honey.
1417
00:54:50,294 --> 00:54:52,134
Namaste. Namaste. Good to see you.
Hello, honey.
1418
00:54:52,174 --> 00:54:54,174
'I've arrived really early,
so I try and make myself useful...'
1419
00:54:54,214 --> 00:54:56,014
'I've arrived really early,
so I try and make myself useful...'
1420
00:54:56,054 --> 00:54:58,054
Oh, lovely school uniform.
You look beautiful, darling.
1421
00:54:58,094 --> 00:54:59,214
Oh, lovely school uniform.
You look beautiful, darling.
1422
00:54:59,254 --> 00:55:01,054
'..by offering
to help get their daughters
1423
00:55:01,094 --> 00:55:03,094
'Chillian and Amrita
ready for school.'
1424
00:55:03,134 --> 00:55:03,774
'Chillian and Amrita
ready for school.'
1425
00:55:03,814 --> 00:55:05,814
You must shout if I hurt or pull.
1426
00:55:05,854 --> 00:55:05,934
You must shout if I hurt or pull.
1427
00:55:05,974 --> 00:55:07,974
At school, if they say,
"Your hair looks a mess, child,"
1428
00:55:08,014 --> 00:55:09,414
At school, if they say,
"Your hair looks a mess, child,"
1429
00:55:09,454 --> 00:55:10,614
you can say,
1430
00:55:10,654 --> 00:55:12,654
"This ghastly woman
suddenly came into the house
1431
00:55:12,694 --> 00:55:12,854
"This ghastly woman
suddenly came into the house
1432
00:55:12,894 --> 00:55:14,694
"and seized me by the head."
1433
00:55:14,734 --> 00:55:16,734
It's not brilliant,
but it'll do, darling. It'll do.
1434
00:55:16,774 --> 00:55:18,254
It's not brilliant,
but it'll do, darling. It'll do.
1435
00:55:18,294 --> 00:55:19,334
'I think a little relieved
1436
00:55:19,374 --> 00:55:21,374
'that her daughters
look just about passable,
1437
00:55:21,414 --> 00:55:21,574
'that her daughters
look just about passable,
1438
00:55:21,614 --> 00:55:23,614
'Mayar has invited me
on the school run,
1439
00:55:23,654 --> 00:55:24,094
'Mayar has invited me
on the school run,
1440
00:55:24,134 --> 00:55:26,134
'and around here,
that's, of course, by another boat.'
1441
00:55:26,174 --> 00:55:26,654
'and around here,
that's, of course, by another boat.'
1442
00:55:29,174 --> 00:55:31,174
As school commutes go,
this one's pretty special.
1443
00:55:31,214 --> 00:55:31,814
As school commutes go,
this one's pretty special.
1444
00:55:33,054 --> 00:55:35,014
And after Mayar
has picked up a few essentials
1445
00:55:35,054 --> 00:55:37,054
from a floating convenience store,
all that's left to do
1446
00:55:37,094 --> 00:55:38,854
from a floating convenience store,
all that's left to do
1447
00:55:38,894 --> 00:55:40,894
is to navigate the copious amount
of ducks en route.
1448
00:55:40,934 --> 00:55:42,934
is to navigate the copious amount
of ducks en route.
1449
00:55:42,974 --> 00:55:43,654
is to navigate the copious amount
of ducks en route.
1450
00:55:43,694 --> 00:55:45,054
We drop off the kids
1451
00:55:45,094 --> 00:55:47,094
to walk the last little bit
of their journey.
1452
00:55:47,134 --> 00:55:47,294
to walk the last little bit
of their journey.
1453
00:55:49,814 --> 00:55:51,814
Oh, it's so hard to leave
these canal-side communities,
1454
00:55:51,854 --> 00:55:53,334
Oh, it's so hard to leave
these canal-side communities,
1455
00:55:53,374 --> 00:55:55,374
their charming way of life,
so close to nature...
1456
00:55:55,414 --> 00:55:56,934
their charming way of life,
so close to nature...
1457
00:55:58,614 --> 00:56:00,614
..and the magical houseboats
inspired by the old spice traders.
1458
00:56:00,654 --> 00:56:02,654
..and the magical houseboats
inspired by the old spice traders.
1459
00:56:02,694 --> 00:56:02,814
..and the magical houseboats
inspired by the old spice traders.
1460
00:56:04,094 --> 00:56:05,934
But I must travel on.
1461
00:56:05,974 --> 00:56:07,454
I'm leaving my beloved India,
1462
00:56:07,494 --> 00:56:09,494
but there are many more mysteries
to uncover on the spice trail.
1463
00:56:09,534 --> 00:56:11,134
but there are many more mysteries
to uncover on the spice trail.
1464
00:56:11,174 --> 00:56:12,854
But now I'm turning my eyes
1465
00:56:12,894 --> 00:56:14,894
towards an intriguing island
in the southwest.
1466
00:56:14,934 --> 00:56:16,134
towards an intriguing island
in the southwest.
1467
00:56:23,454 --> 00:56:25,454
'On the next leg
of my Spice Trail Adventure...'
1468
00:56:25,494 --> 00:56:26,054
'On the next leg
of my Spice Trail Adventure...'
1469
00:56:26,094 --> 00:56:27,374
Je prends un...
1470
00:56:27,414 --> 00:56:28,854
'..I dust off my French
1471
00:56:28,894 --> 00:56:30,894
'when I sail
across the Indian Ocean...'
1472
00:56:30,934 --> 00:56:31,214
'when I sail
across the Indian Ocean...'
1473
00:56:31,254 --> 00:56:32,654
THEY SING IN OWN LANGUAGE
1474
00:56:32,694 --> 00:56:34,694
'..to the sweet-sounding lands
of Madagascar,
1475
00:56:34,734 --> 00:56:36,694
'..to the sweet-sounding lands
of Madagascar,
1476
00:56:36,734 --> 00:56:37,894
'on a bumpy...'
1477
00:56:37,934 --> 00:56:39,574
Got to avoid the pothole if you can.
1478
00:56:39,614 --> 00:56:41,614
'..300-mile road trip...
1479
00:56:42,814 --> 00:56:44,814
'..unearthing the world's
most popular spice...'
1480
00:56:44,854 --> 00:56:45,654
'..unearthing the world's
most popular spice...'
1481
00:56:45,694 --> 00:56:47,694
Welcome to my vanilla plantation.
Wow!
1482
00:56:47,734 --> 00:56:48,774
Welcome to my vanilla plantation.
Wow!
1483
00:56:48,814 --> 00:56:50,814
'..and onwards
to the exotic island of Zanzibar,
1484
00:56:50,854 --> 00:56:52,374
'..and onwards
to the exotic island of Zanzibar,
1485
00:56:52,414 --> 00:56:54,414
'before a trek towards
the crossroads of Asia and Europe
1486
00:56:54,454 --> 00:56:56,454
'before a trek towards
the crossroads of Asia and Europe
1487
00:56:56,494 --> 00:56:57,014
'before a trek towards
the crossroads of Asia and Europe
1488
00:56:57,054 --> 00:56:59,054
'takes me to the ancient city
of Petra.'
1489
00:56:59,094 --> 00:56:59,814
'takes me to the ancient city
of Petra.'
1490
00:56:59,854 --> 00:57:01,854
Join me
on this Spice Trail Adventure.
1491
00:57:01,894 --> 00:57:03,374
Join me
on this Spice Trail Adventure.
1492
00:57:04,734 --> 00:57:06,734
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