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- There's a story that goes,
when God created the world,
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00:00:16,712 --> 00:00:18,931
he took all the leftover bits
3
00:00:18,975 --> 00:00:21,891
and wanted to make something
beautiful with them,
4
00:00:21,934 --> 00:00:25,808
so he made Sardinia.
5
00:00:25,851 --> 00:00:27,984
And there's something to that.
6
00:00:28,028 --> 00:00:31,814
Sardinia is really an
island of bits and pieces,
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00:00:31,857 --> 00:00:34,773
in the best possible way.
8
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Each local community is
like an island of its own,
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00:00:38,516 --> 00:00:41,998
with wildly varying
geography, languages...
10
00:00:44,261 --> 00:00:46,089
- And food.
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- Bello.
- Wow.
12
00:00:47,873 --> 00:00:49,701
Put together, you get a region
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00:00:49,745 --> 00:00:52,095
with a ferocious
independent streak.
14
00:00:54,445 --> 00:00:55,490
Cheers.
15
00:00:55,533 --> 00:00:57,187
- A little bit Italian
16
00:00:57,231 --> 00:00:59,624
and a little bit
something else entirely.
17
00:00:59,668 --> 00:01:01,235
Man.
18
00:01:01,278 --> 00:01:02,932
Incredible.
19
00:01:02,975 --> 00:01:04,890
I'm Stanley Tucci.
20
00:01:04,934 --> 00:01:07,284
I'm fascinated by
my Italian heritage,
21
00:01:07,328 --> 00:01:10,331
so I'm travelling across
Italy to discover how the food
22
00:01:10,374 --> 00:01:13,595
in each of this country's
20 regions is as unique
23
00:01:13,638 --> 00:01:15,510
as the people and their past.
24
00:01:15,553 --> 00:01:17,773
Oh, in between my legs?
25
00:01:17,816 --> 00:01:20,123
Sardinia is Italy's Wild West.
26
00:01:20,167 --> 00:01:22,256
God damn it.
27
00:01:22,299 --> 00:01:24,519
And although they
respect tradition,
28
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things here are never dull.
29
00:01:26,695 --> 00:01:29,306
Ah! Ah!
- Ah!
30
00:01:29,350 --> 00:01:32,092
- Out here, nothing stands
in the way of freedom...
31
00:01:32,135 --> 00:01:34,006
- It's different.
- Okay.
32
00:01:34,050 --> 00:01:38,141
Because this is a place
at the edge of reason.
33
00:01:38,185 --> 00:01:42,145
I am very adventurous, but
sometimes I have real fear.
34
00:01:42,189 --> 00:01:44,887
I think this is
one of those times.
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00:01:58,030 --> 00:02:00,163
Due West of Rome and
right in the middle
36
00:02:00,207 --> 00:02:01,686
of the Mediterranean Sea,
37
00:02:01,730 --> 00:02:03,601
Sardinia is so cut off
38
00:02:03,645 --> 00:02:05,560
from the rest of the
Italian peninsula
39
00:02:05,603 --> 00:02:07,344
that fellow compatriots
joke about it
40
00:02:07,388 --> 00:02:10,260
being a mini continent,
41
00:02:10,304 --> 00:02:13,089
with customs and
ideas all of its own.
42
00:02:15,265 --> 00:02:20,488
Its capital, Cagliari,
sits on the south coast.
43
00:02:20,531 --> 00:02:23,186
For over five millennia,
its vast harbor
44
00:02:23,230 --> 00:02:25,362
has attracted visitors
from far and wide
45
00:02:25,406 --> 00:02:27,059
who, once here,
46
00:02:27,103 --> 00:02:30,193
often find it very
hard to leave.
47
00:02:30,237 --> 00:02:32,500
Many have stayed to trade here,
48
00:02:32,543 --> 00:02:34,502
others to conquer,
49
00:02:34,545 --> 00:02:37,069
and a few, like food
writer Letitia Clark,
50
00:02:37,113 --> 00:02:39,463
have simply followed
their hearts.
51
00:02:39,507 --> 00:02:42,510
Ciao.
- Ciao.
52
00:02:43,989 --> 00:02:45,426
Lovely to meet you.
- How are you?
53
00:02:45,469 --> 00:02:47,186
It's so nice to meet you too.
- Welcome to Cagliari.
54
00:02:47,210 --> 00:02:48,733
- But you came from London...
55
00:02:48,777 --> 00:02:50,407
- Because I fell in love.
- 'Cause you fell in love.
56
00:02:50,431 --> 00:02:51,823
- With a Sardinian.
Yeah, exactly.
57
00:02:51,867 --> 00:02:53,061
- And then you fell
in love with Sardinia.
58
00:02:53,085 --> 00:02:54,609
- Yeah. It's an
incredible place
59
00:02:54,652 --> 00:02:56,654
and it's very under-explored.
60
00:02:56,698 --> 00:02:58,352
It has an amazingly
rich culture.
61
00:02:58,395 --> 00:03:01,137
And because it's an
island, historical methods
62
00:03:01,181 --> 00:03:03,705
have been preserved with
such kind of tenacity,
63
00:03:03,748 --> 00:03:04,706
it's amazing.
64
00:03:10,973 --> 00:03:13,584
- Each wave of settlers
has left its own mark
65
00:03:13,628 --> 00:03:17,371
on the island's capital,
so much so that eating here
66
00:03:17,414 --> 00:03:19,416
is like going on the
culinary equivalent
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00:03:19,460 --> 00:03:21,113
of an archaeological dig.
68
00:03:22,419 --> 00:03:23,638
This is gorgeous.
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00:03:23,681 --> 00:03:25,988
- And there's some
beautiful fish.
70
00:03:26,031 --> 00:03:28,643
- Letitia has taken me
to San Benedetto Market
71
00:03:28,686 --> 00:03:30,906
to do some excavating.
72
00:03:33,474 --> 00:03:35,034
- Parago, parago.
- Is it like an orata?
73
00:03:36,955 --> 00:03:38,261
- Si.
74
00:03:38,305 --> 00:03:39,784
The fruits of the
Mediterranean Sea
75
00:03:39,828 --> 00:03:41,612
are everywhere you look.
76
00:03:41,656 --> 00:03:45,181
But for Letitia, there's one
delicacy from far-off shores
77
00:03:45,225 --> 00:03:47,052
that trumps all the others.
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00:03:50,099 --> 00:03:52,667
- Okay, so this is bottarga,
which is one of Sardinia's
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00:03:52,710 --> 00:03:58,194
most prized, most celebrated,
most delicious products.
80
00:03:58,238 --> 00:04:00,631
- Put simply,
bottarga is fish roe
81
00:04:00,675 --> 00:04:02,764
that's first salted, then cured.
82
00:04:04,548 --> 00:04:06,637
This method of
preservation was invented
83
00:04:06,681 --> 00:04:09,640
over 3,000 years ago
by the Phoenicians.
84
00:04:09,684 --> 00:04:11,990
These renowned seafarers
brought bottarga here
85
00:04:12,034 --> 00:04:14,558
from modern-day Lebanon.
86
00:04:14,602 --> 00:04:16,734
But it's only when
made with the eggs
87
00:04:16,778 --> 00:04:21,086
of Sardinia's gray mullet that
something magical happens.
88
00:04:21,130 --> 00:04:22,325
- So bottarga.
- Shall we try it?
89
00:04:22,349 --> 00:04:23,654
- Try.
90
00:04:23,698 --> 00:04:25,439
Caviar of Sardinia.
91
00:04:30,052 --> 00:04:33,316
- I could eat that all day.
92
00:04:33,360 --> 00:04:34,467
- Buttery.
- It is very buttery.
93
00:04:34,491 --> 00:04:36,363
- Yeah.
- And super salty.
94
00:04:36,406 --> 00:04:39,453
- Have you tried the Sicilian
one which is made from tuna?
95
00:04:39,496 --> 00:04:41,324
- I have. I prefer this.
- Prefer this one.
96
00:04:41,368 --> 00:04:43,152
You're a fully-fledged
Sardinian now.
97
00:04:43,195 --> 00:04:45,110
If you say that the
bottarga of Sardinia
98
00:04:45,154 --> 00:04:47,504
is the best in Italy,
they'll give you citizenship.
99
00:04:47,548 --> 00:04:49,158
- Yeah, it's true. I know.
100
00:04:49,201 --> 00:04:50,725
I need it.
101
00:04:58,776 --> 00:05:03,215
After 3,000 years of trade,
invasions, and conquests,
102
00:05:03,259 --> 00:05:05,696
it seems the people of
Cagliari have a knack
103
00:05:05,740 --> 00:05:08,438
for taking the best of
what's been brought here
104
00:05:08,482 --> 00:05:11,615
and making it their own.
105
00:05:11,659 --> 00:05:13,269
To further prove that point,
106
00:05:13,313 --> 00:05:16,011
Letitia's taking me
just south of Cagliari
107
00:05:16,054 --> 00:05:18,883
to the Lagoon of Nora, to sample
108
00:05:18,927 --> 00:05:21,146
yet another treat that
washed up on these shores
109
00:05:21,190 --> 00:05:24,367
a millennium or two ago.
110
00:05:24,411 --> 00:05:26,761
And no, it's not a fish.
111
00:05:26,804 --> 00:05:28,980
Hey, leave that fish alone.
112
00:05:29,024 --> 00:05:30,373
Hi.
113
00:05:30,417 --> 00:05:32,003
- Beautiful place for
scaling a fish, right?
114
00:05:32,027 --> 00:05:33,550
Yeah.
115
00:05:33,594 --> 00:05:35,726
Oh, this is scorpionfish.
- Scorpionfish.
116
00:05:35,770 --> 00:05:38,294
And it's beautiful.
It's super fresh.
117
00:05:38,338 --> 00:05:41,079
Catch this morning.
118
00:05:41,123 --> 00:05:43,865
- Head Chef Francesco
Stara might be known
119
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for his sparkling fresh seafood,
120
00:05:46,781 --> 00:05:49,087
but at Fradis
Minoris restaurant,
121
00:05:49,131 --> 00:05:53,004
there's one local specialty
he can't take off the menu,
122
00:05:53,048 --> 00:05:56,181
fregola ai frutti di mare.
123
00:05:57,226 --> 00:06:01,230
- So we start from the
semola from the Urzulei area.
124
00:06:01,273 --> 00:06:03,101
- It all starts with a pasta
125
00:06:03,145 --> 00:06:05,756
that looks curiously
like couscous.
126
00:06:05,800 --> 00:06:08,716
- You're just gonna put
a few drops of warm water
127
00:06:08,759 --> 00:06:10,761
and start to create the lumps.
128
00:06:10,805 --> 00:06:12,284
It is relaxing.
129
00:06:12,328 --> 00:06:14,199
- It is relaxing. Yeah.
130
00:06:14,243 --> 00:06:16,419
Fregola's origins are
difficult to unearth.
131
00:06:16,463 --> 00:06:18,116
Wow.
132
00:06:18,160 --> 00:06:20,336
Some say it was brought
here by the Phoenicians.
133
00:06:20,380 --> 00:06:22,730
Others that it came
from North Africa.
134
00:06:22,773 --> 00:06:25,950
- Supposedly a woman
who could make fregola
135
00:06:25,994 --> 00:06:27,952
was deemed to be kind of
good marriage material.
136
00:06:27,996 --> 00:06:29,693
- Really?
137
00:06:29,737 --> 00:06:31,303
- And that was her
kind of proposition
138
00:06:31,347 --> 00:06:32,957
to her potential husband.
139
00:06:33,001 --> 00:06:34,979
I can make fregola, so I'm
gonna make you a good wife.
140
00:06:35,003 --> 00:06:36,570
- Really?
141
00:06:36,613 --> 00:06:37,808
Well, I'm gonna have to
talk to my wife about that.
142
00:06:41,139 --> 00:06:42,184
- There we go.
143
00:06:42,227 --> 00:06:43,446
- Cheers.
- Salute.
144
00:06:43,490 --> 00:06:45,143
- Salute.
- Salute.
145
00:06:45,187 --> 00:06:49,191
Luckily for us, this
island has fantastic beer.
146
00:06:49,234 --> 00:06:52,716
It's like 90-something
degrees in Sardinia now.
147
00:06:52,760 --> 00:06:53,891
And we've just made this...
148
00:06:53,935 --> 00:06:55,129
You've just made
this beautiful thing.
149
00:06:55,153 --> 00:06:56,217
- We've done nothing.
We were just...
150
00:06:56,241 --> 00:06:57,634
- Yeah. We've done nothing.
151
00:06:57,678 --> 00:06:59,331
We had to have a beer.
152
00:06:59,375 --> 00:07:00,985
- There we go.
153
00:07:01,029 --> 00:07:03,031
- It's not just
fregola's larger grains
154
00:07:03,074 --> 00:07:07,122
that distinguish this dish
from its North African cousin.
155
00:07:07,165 --> 00:07:10,473
It's also the tradition
of serving it with fish.
156
00:07:10,517 --> 00:07:12,693
- The scorpionfish that
we got this morning,
157
00:07:12,736 --> 00:07:16,261
what we're gonna do is
just, we're gonna fillet it.
158
00:07:16,305 --> 00:07:17,413
- It's a beautiful
flesh, isn't it?
159
00:07:17,437 --> 00:07:18,525
Yeah.
160
00:07:18,568 --> 00:07:20,048
- This is it.
- So there's that.
161
00:07:20,091 --> 00:07:24,095
- Then we will
blanch our octopus.
162
00:07:24,139 --> 00:07:25,227
There we go.
163
00:07:25,270 --> 00:07:26,794
- Gorgeous.
164
00:07:26,837 --> 00:07:30,754
After being toasted
to enhance the flavor,
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the fregola are
quickly blanched.
166
00:07:34,018 --> 00:07:35,759
- So you're cooking
it like pasta.
167
00:07:35,803 --> 00:07:37,544
- Yeah.
- Yeah.
168
00:07:37,587 --> 00:07:40,372
- Just season with
a bit of olive oil.
169
00:07:40,416 --> 00:07:42,592
- Often this dish
can be hearty fare,
170
00:07:42,636 --> 00:07:46,117
but at Fradis Minoris, it
becomes something refined.
171
00:07:46,161 --> 00:07:47,945
Is this the...
172
00:07:47,989 --> 00:07:50,078
The scorpionfish, raw?
173
00:07:50,121 --> 00:07:52,123
- Yes, it's the
raw scorpionfish.
174
00:07:52,167 --> 00:07:55,387
We're gonna finish it
up with some bottarga.
175
00:07:57,259 --> 00:07:59,522
- And finally, a
rich tomato broth
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00:07:59,566 --> 00:08:01,437
flavored with
fragrant local herbs
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00:08:01,481 --> 00:08:04,179
and the shells of
the day's catch.
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00:08:09,619 --> 00:08:10,707
- Andiamo.
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00:08:12,622 --> 00:08:15,886
In honor of all the gifts from
visitors past and present,
180
00:08:15,930 --> 00:08:18,585
it's only right and proper
to celebrate Cagliari
181
00:08:18,628 --> 00:08:22,023
within site of the old
Phoenician ruins of Nora.
182
00:08:22,066 --> 00:08:23,764
- Wow. Thank you.
183
00:08:23,807 --> 00:08:25,200
- One fregola,
with mixed seafood.
184
00:08:25,243 --> 00:08:26,984
- How beautiful.
185
00:08:28,290 --> 00:08:29,160
- Oh, you're going
to eat with us.
186
00:08:29,204 --> 00:08:30,510
- Yeah, please.
- Perfect.
187
00:08:30,553 --> 00:08:31,815
- Okay.
188
00:08:31,859 --> 00:08:33,817
- Buon appetito.
- I'm very excited.
189
00:08:36,951 --> 00:08:38,474
Oh, yum.
190
00:08:38,518 --> 00:08:40,215
That's great.
191
00:08:40,258 --> 00:08:42,391
It's so delicate.
192
00:08:44,349 --> 00:08:46,482
- Yes.
- Fantastico.
193
00:08:46,526 --> 00:08:48,615
- And I like the fact
that every little piece
194
00:08:48,658 --> 00:08:50,268
is slightly different.
- Yeah.
195
00:08:50,312 --> 00:08:51,681
They are like little
pearls, aren't they?
196
00:08:51,705 --> 00:08:53,489
- Yeah, they are.
It's, like, nubbly.
197
00:08:53,533 --> 00:08:55,970
- It is nubbly.
198
00:08:56,013 --> 00:08:58,059
Francesco has
taken an ingredient
199
00:08:58,102 --> 00:09:01,497
once foreign to these
shores and transformed it
200
00:09:01,541 --> 00:09:04,065
into something
uniquely Sardinian.
201
00:09:18,732 --> 00:09:20,734
- Those who know the island well
202
00:09:20,777 --> 00:09:23,824
say there are really
two Sardinias.
203
00:09:23,867 --> 00:09:26,130
The coast with its many
foreign occupations
204
00:09:26,174 --> 00:09:28,611
and multicultural mixings,
205
00:09:28,655 --> 00:09:33,790
and up here, 50 miles into
the island's interior.
206
00:09:33,834 --> 00:09:37,533
Amongst the thistles
and the thorns,
207
00:09:37,577 --> 00:09:41,711
this harsh, brutal landscape.
208
00:09:41,755 --> 00:09:44,279
It's a place where people
have always retreated
209
00:09:44,322 --> 00:09:47,151
to escape marauding armies
210
00:09:47,195 --> 00:09:49,589
and where little has
changed for millennia.
211
00:09:51,721 --> 00:09:56,030
These structures here
are known as nuraghe.
212
00:09:56,073 --> 00:09:58,510
They were built by a
people who lived here
213
00:09:58,554 --> 00:10:00,643
almost 4,000 years ago,
so they're practically
214
00:10:00,687 --> 00:10:03,211
as old as the pyramids.
215
00:10:03,254 --> 00:10:06,301
The ancient landscape
is famous for bandits,
216
00:10:06,344 --> 00:10:10,131
age-old customs, and
being very anti-authority.
217
00:10:12,350 --> 00:10:14,918
Rumor has it that
even the mafia failed
218
00:10:14,962 --> 00:10:17,181
to take hold here as
people aren't interested
219
00:10:17,225 --> 00:10:20,881
in group activities of any kind.
220
00:10:20,924 --> 00:10:23,884
But one group dynamic
is not just allowed,
221
00:10:23,927 --> 00:10:25,581
it's positively encouraged.
222
00:10:32,022 --> 00:10:33,981
- Luigi Manias and his family
223
00:10:34,024 --> 00:10:37,506
have been keeping
beehives since 1631,
224
00:10:37,549 --> 00:10:40,204
and Luigi wants to
show me the ropes.
225
00:10:43,599 --> 00:10:44,861
- No.
226
00:10:46,515 --> 00:10:47,864
- Si.
227
00:10:51,128 --> 00:10:52,477
I'm not going near the bees.
228
00:10:52,521 --> 00:10:54,044
We have a long shoot ahead.
229
00:10:54,088 --> 00:10:59,006
If I, you know, multiple
stings, that'd be bad.
230
00:11:02,749 --> 00:11:05,099
- All spring, the
bees in these hives
231
00:11:05,142 --> 00:11:07,405
work industriously
to collect pollen
232
00:11:07,449 --> 00:11:09,973
from the diverse wildflowers
that flourish here.
233
00:11:11,758 --> 00:11:14,674
- The result is a
thousand-flower honey.
234
00:11:22,159 --> 00:11:24,684
- Oh, my gosh. Beautiful.
235
00:11:24,727 --> 00:11:26,337
Absolutely beautiful.
236
00:11:29,123 --> 00:11:31,865
Oh, my God.
237
00:11:35,912 --> 00:11:38,741
- Mmm. Mmm.
238
00:11:38,785 --> 00:11:40,525
It's so sweet.
239
00:11:40,569 --> 00:11:41,831
Delicious.
240
00:11:44,225 --> 00:11:46,706
Luigi has won multiple
awards for his honey,
241
00:11:46,749 --> 00:11:48,882
but there's one
nectar so prized,
242
00:11:48,925 --> 00:11:50,753
he keeps it hidden away indoors.
243
00:11:50,797 --> 00:11:51,972
Wow.
244
00:12:01,808 --> 00:12:03,157
- Si, si, si.
245
00:12:07,596 --> 00:12:09,250
It's different.
- It's the opposite.
246
00:12:09,293 --> 00:12:10,338
- It's different.
- Okay.
247
00:12:13,428 --> 00:12:15,125
- Stanley.
248
00:12:25,788 --> 00:12:29,487
- This is miele di corbezzolo.
249
00:12:29,531 --> 00:12:32,012
For over 2,000
years, it's been made
250
00:12:32,055 --> 00:12:34,884
from the white, bell-shaped
flowers of the corbezzolo,
251
00:12:34,928 --> 00:12:37,800
or wild strawberry tree.
252
00:12:37,844 --> 00:12:40,063
The blossoms produce
limited nectar,
253
00:12:40,107 --> 00:12:42,979
so this honey is something
of a connoisseur's choice.
254
00:12:43,023 --> 00:12:44,502
- Prego.
255
00:12:53,555 --> 00:12:57,515
When the Romans occupied
Sardinia two millennia ago,
256
00:12:57,559 --> 00:13:01,563
Cicero said, "Everything
Sardinia produces is bad.
257
00:13:01,606 --> 00:13:03,260
Even the honey is bitter."
258
00:13:04,174 --> 00:13:05,306
- No, no, no.
259
00:13:06,742 --> 00:13:08,526
No, no, no, no.
260
00:13:08,570 --> 00:13:10,180
But for Sardinians,
261
00:13:10,224 --> 00:13:12,487
let's just say it's like catnip.
262
00:13:23,193 --> 00:13:24,804
- Wet leaves. Yes.
263
00:13:26,240 --> 00:13:27,981
- It smells like smoke.
264
00:13:28,024 --> 00:13:29,156
It tastes like smoke.
265
00:13:30,897 --> 00:13:32,812
Smoke.
266
00:13:32,855 --> 00:13:33,855
- Yeah.
267
00:13:38,556 --> 00:13:41,690
- Because of its strong
flavor, locals often pair
268
00:13:41,733 --> 00:13:43,605
bitter honey with rich meats.
269
00:13:45,650 --> 00:13:49,219
So Luigi's friend, Giovanni,
has been spit-roasting a lamb.
270
00:14:04,408 --> 00:14:06,671
- Yeah. Yeah.
271
00:14:06,715 --> 00:14:08,369
Yes!
272
00:14:08,412 --> 00:14:10,458
Yes!
273
00:14:12,242 --> 00:14:13,330
- Yeah? Yeah?
274
00:14:17,117 --> 00:14:18,205
No?
275
00:14:29,651 --> 00:14:31,653
- Legend has it
that after stealing
276
00:14:31,696 --> 00:14:33,481
from Roman landowners,
277
00:14:33,524 --> 00:14:36,005
the wily thieves would
repair to the hills
278
00:14:36,049 --> 00:14:40,096
and enjoy this dish, smothered
in the same bitter honey
279
00:14:40,140 --> 00:14:42,969
that their occupiers
had scoffed at.
280
00:14:43,012 --> 00:14:44,666
That's incredible
281
00:14:54,502 --> 00:14:55,895
- Mmm.
- Bello.
282
00:14:55,938 --> 00:14:57,897
- Wow.
283
00:14:57,940 --> 00:15:00,725
It doesn't taste bitter
at all. It's sweet.
284
00:15:00,769 --> 00:15:03,554
But also the fat, mixing in
with the fat, it's perfect.
285
00:15:07,863 --> 00:15:10,126
- This is the food
of resistance.
286
00:15:10,170 --> 00:15:11,214
Wow.
287
00:15:11,258 --> 00:15:12,737
A delicious resistance.
288
00:15:12,781 --> 00:15:14,957
That is not what I expected.
289
00:15:15,001 --> 00:15:17,046
Okay, stop filming.
290
00:15:17,090 --> 00:15:20,310
- Stop. Now.
291
00:15:20,354 --> 00:15:22,747
- Bandits at heart,
the crew can't resist
292
00:15:22,791 --> 00:15:24,140
giving us a helping hand.
293
00:15:27,448 --> 00:15:29,102
- Amazing. Grazie.
- Amazing.
294
00:15:29,145 --> 00:15:30,886
- Grazie. Grazie.
295
00:15:44,595 --> 00:15:47,337
- Climbing further into
Sardinia's interior,
296
00:15:47,381 --> 00:15:49,992
you reach an untouched
region containing
297
00:15:50,036 --> 00:15:52,864
the island's hardest hills
and steepest mountains.
298
00:15:52,908 --> 00:15:55,345
It's known as Barbagia.
299
00:15:57,173 --> 00:15:59,001
Here, shepherds
live from the land
300
00:15:59,045 --> 00:16:01,438
as their ancestors did,
301
00:16:01,482 --> 00:16:03,963
with no one to
interfere with them.
302
00:16:05,268 --> 00:16:10,143
But life here is tough.
303
00:16:10,186 --> 00:16:11,274
Ciao.
304
00:16:19,500 --> 00:16:20,501
- Ah.
305
00:16:27,682 --> 00:16:30,337
Each summer,
Antonio Putzu spends
306
00:16:30,380 --> 00:16:34,036
three hard months herding
Sardo sheep on this mountain.
307
00:16:34,080 --> 00:16:38,040
But like the local shepherds,
the sheep enjoy their liberty.
308
00:16:59,757 --> 00:17:02,456
- But it's a necessary freedom.
309
00:17:02,499 --> 00:17:05,676
Pecorino Sardo, the
island's coveted cheese,
310
00:17:05,720 --> 00:17:09,637
can only be made from the milk
of wild-grazing Sardo sheep.
311
00:17:14,163 --> 00:17:15,251
- Si.
312
00:17:20,430 --> 00:17:22,215
- Okay. Good. Thank
God. Thank God.
313
00:17:29,961 --> 00:17:33,182
- Si. Oh, in between
my legs? Like this?
314
00:17:35,793 --> 00:17:37,926
- Yeah. Now what? Oh, I see.
315
00:17:40,320 --> 00:17:42,713
I swear, it's not just me.
316
00:17:42,757 --> 00:17:44,846
Hand milking is
harder than it looks.
317
00:17:44,889 --> 00:17:46,630
God damn it!
318
00:17:46,674 --> 00:17:48,632
I'm so afraid of hurting it.
319
00:17:48,676 --> 00:17:49,851
You do it.
320
00:17:54,508 --> 00:17:56,945
For Antonio, this
hard work is worth it
321
00:17:56,988 --> 00:17:58,816
for the distinctive, fatty milk
322
00:17:58,860 --> 00:18:00,470
the Sardo sheep produce.
323
00:18:00,514 --> 00:18:02,777
That's a lot of milk. Wow.
324
00:18:11,786 --> 00:18:13,048
- Oh, my God. It's delicious.
325
00:18:14,049 --> 00:18:15,094
- Yeah.
326
00:18:23,580 --> 00:18:25,495
- While much of the
island's grassland
327
00:18:25,539 --> 00:18:27,628
has been sold to private owners,
328
00:18:27,671 --> 00:18:31,849
these rocky outcrops are still
owned by the Sardinian people.
329
00:18:45,254 --> 00:18:47,561
- Grazie.
330
00:18:47,604 --> 00:18:48,997
Beautiful.
331
00:18:49,040 --> 00:18:51,086
The milk from the
Sardo sheep is used
332
00:18:51,130 --> 00:18:53,262
in a surprising
range of cheeses.
333
00:18:57,962 --> 00:19:00,878
- This Pecorino Sardo
is made during winter
334
00:19:00,922 --> 00:19:02,204
when grass and
herbs are plentiful.
335
00:19:02,228 --> 00:19:03,838
Yeah.
336
00:19:03,881 --> 00:19:06,362
Giving the cheese a
mildly aromatic flavor.
337
00:19:06,406 --> 00:19:07,537
That's nice.
338
00:19:10,932 --> 00:19:12,934
- But I've heard
whisperings of another,
339
00:19:12,977 --> 00:19:15,328
more notorious cheese
made in this region.
340
00:19:26,252 --> 00:19:27,731
- Oh, no, those?
341
00:19:34,956 --> 00:19:35,957
- Yeah?
342
00:19:40,657 --> 00:19:42,920
- Due to the presence
of parasites,
343
00:19:42,964 --> 00:19:46,228
it's illegal to sell
casu marzu commercially,
344
00:19:46,272 --> 00:19:48,839
but Antonio makes
something close to it,
345
00:19:48,883 --> 00:19:50,450
parasites not included.
346
00:20:04,203 --> 00:20:06,205
- There's a reason Antonio
works on the mountains
347
00:20:06,248 --> 00:20:07,815
and not in marketing.
348
00:20:07,858 --> 00:20:09,860
But here goes.
349
00:20:09,904 --> 00:20:10,905
Mmm.
350
00:20:17,825 --> 00:20:19,261
- No, it's nice.
351
00:20:19,305 --> 00:20:20,523
That's really nice.
352
00:20:22,177 --> 00:20:25,049
Outside, Antonio and
his fellow shepherds
353
00:20:25,093 --> 00:20:28,052
are making a dish as old
as the surrounding hills,
354
00:20:28,096 --> 00:20:30,229
sa ventre.
355
00:20:30,272 --> 00:20:32,187
It's a kind of Sardinian haggis,
356
00:20:32,231 --> 00:20:33,710
and it all starts with another
357
00:20:33,754 --> 00:20:35,843
less than conventional
ingredient,
358
00:20:35,886 --> 00:20:37,366
sheep's blood.
359
00:20:54,731 --> 00:20:56,994
- Pecorino Sardo is added
360
00:20:57,038 --> 00:20:59,649
to bring a nutty, buttery
flavor to the mixture.
361
00:20:59,693 --> 00:21:02,826
And flatbread gives
it body and texture.
362
00:21:11,357 --> 00:21:13,881
- To balance the meaty
richness of the dish,
363
00:21:13,924 --> 00:21:16,405
Antonio has sourced wild
mint from the mountains.
364
00:21:18,886 --> 00:21:20,061
- Oh, yeah.
365
00:21:24,065 --> 00:21:26,328
- Wow.
366
00:21:26,372 --> 00:21:29,592
The mixture is then poured
into a sheep's stomach.
367
00:21:34,641 --> 00:21:37,600
- I am very adventurous, but...
368
00:21:37,644 --> 00:21:39,298
sometimes, I have real fear.
369
00:21:41,038 --> 00:21:43,780
I think this is
one of those times.
370
00:21:43,824 --> 00:21:45,521
Oof.
371
00:21:45,565 --> 00:21:50,004
Cooked for 20 minutes, the
sa ventre is now ready.
372
00:21:50,047 --> 00:21:52,223
But I'm not sure
I'm ready for it.
373
00:22:00,449 --> 00:22:02,146
Cheers.
374
00:22:08,675 --> 00:22:10,938
It's really good.
It's really good.
375
00:22:10,981 --> 00:22:15,203
And I'm not saying it because
my new friends are here.
376
00:22:15,246 --> 00:22:17,597
The mint and pecorino
temper the flavor
377
00:22:17,640 --> 00:22:21,949
of the blood and offal, like
a perfectly seasoned sausage.
378
00:22:31,828 --> 00:22:33,700
- It's delicious.
379
00:22:33,743 --> 00:22:35,832
I don't know that I'll
be making it at home,
380
00:22:35,876 --> 00:22:37,791
but it's delicious.
381
00:22:43,666 --> 00:22:46,495
- As a parting gift,
Antonio and his friends
382
00:22:46,539 --> 00:22:50,717
are sharing a traditional song
in the local Olianese dialect
383
00:22:50,760 --> 00:22:52,806
about two shepherds
who slaughter a sheep
384
00:22:52,849 --> 00:22:54,590
to make sa ventre.
385
00:24:14,061 --> 00:24:15,889
- I just think it's gorgeous.
386
00:24:15,932 --> 00:24:17,717
It's very peaceful.
387
00:24:17,760 --> 00:24:19,283
- It's very quiet. Yeah.
- Yes.
388
00:24:19,327 --> 00:24:21,155
I don't want to tell
anybody about it.
389
00:24:23,853 --> 00:24:27,074
Five miles west of
the Sardinian mainland
390
00:24:27,117 --> 00:24:29,555
sits the small
island of San Pietro,
391
00:24:29,598 --> 00:24:34,255
home to just one
town, Carloforte.
392
00:24:34,298 --> 00:24:37,345
It's an extraordinarily
close-knit community here,
393
00:24:37,388 --> 00:24:40,000
with shared roots
and a shared dialect
394
00:24:40,043 --> 00:24:43,525
dating back over 300 years,
when the town was founded
395
00:24:43,569 --> 00:24:46,354
by just 30 families
from Liguria.
396
00:24:46,397 --> 00:24:48,530
- We have the double language,
Italian and Ligurian.
397
00:24:48,574 --> 00:24:50,445
- Yes. And Ligurian. Yeah.
398
00:24:50,489 --> 00:24:51,751
I absolutely love it!
399
00:24:57,408 --> 00:25:00,586
Chef Luigi Pomata is
taking me to discover
400
00:25:00,629 --> 00:25:04,198
the activity that's always
bound this community together,
401
00:25:04,241 --> 00:25:05,460
tuna fishing.
402
00:25:08,550 --> 00:25:09,614
- We have a respect
for the tuna.
403
00:25:09,638 --> 00:25:10,987
- Yeah, yeah.
404
00:25:11,031 --> 00:25:13,250
- If Carloforte
exists, it exists
405
00:25:13,294 --> 00:25:14,556
because we have the tuna.
406
00:25:14,600 --> 00:25:16,427
- Yeah. Let me
see your tattoo.
407
00:25:16,471 --> 00:25:17,690
- It's Carloforte Island.
408
00:25:17,733 --> 00:25:19,692
- Oh, I see. Yeah.
- And the tuna.
409
00:25:19,735 --> 00:25:22,564
- Oh, that's
good. I like that.
410
00:25:22,608 --> 00:25:24,914
It's not surprising
tuna is something
411
00:25:24,958 --> 00:25:26,568
of a local obsession.
412
00:25:26,612 --> 00:25:28,570
For two months a year,
fishermen come together
413
00:25:28,614 --> 00:25:31,051
to catch the coveted
bluefin tuna,
414
00:25:31,094 --> 00:25:33,923
as it migrates here
from the East Atlantic.
415
00:25:33,967 --> 00:25:36,230
Used in the finest
sushi restaurants,
416
00:25:36,273 --> 00:25:38,667
bluefin is pretty special.
417
00:25:38,711 --> 00:25:41,278
And to catch it, they use
an equally special system
418
00:25:41,322 --> 00:25:43,367
of nets known as tonnare.
419
00:25:43,411 --> 00:25:45,021
- Here we have the nets.
420
00:25:45,065 --> 00:25:48,155
The big line we call
coda is one kilometer.
421
00:25:48,198 --> 00:25:50,810
- Really?
- Yeah.
422
00:25:50,853 --> 00:25:54,596
- The coda blocks the path
of the migrating tuna.
423
00:25:54,640 --> 00:25:56,250
As they swim around it,
424
00:25:56,293 --> 00:25:58,121
they're funneled into a sequence
425
00:25:58,165 --> 00:26:00,254
of netted chambers,
with gaps wide enough
426
00:26:00,297 --> 00:26:03,257
for smaller fish to escape.
427
00:26:03,300 --> 00:26:05,999
The largest tuna
enter a final chamber,
428
00:26:06,042 --> 00:26:09,002
where fishermen work together
in a finely tuned drill
429
00:26:09,045 --> 00:26:11,047
to lift them out of the sea.
430
00:26:11,091 --> 00:26:12,483
Those are all the chambers?
431
00:26:12,527 --> 00:26:13,702
- It's the chamber. Yeah.
432
00:26:13,746 --> 00:26:16,096
- There's no collateral...
433
00:26:16,139 --> 00:26:17,576
- No.
434
00:26:17,619 --> 00:26:18,751
- Damage or anything?
- No.
435
00:26:18,794 --> 00:26:21,492
It's sustainable.
436
00:26:21,536 --> 00:26:24,191
- To avoid overfishing,
the fishermen here
437
00:26:24,234 --> 00:26:27,803
never take more than 8%
of the migrating tuna,
438
00:26:27,847 --> 00:26:30,197
ensuring the Atlantic
bluefin population
439
00:26:30,240 --> 00:26:32,808
remains a very healthy size.
440
00:26:32,852 --> 00:26:36,377
- When the weight is
okay, they open the nets
441
00:26:36,420 --> 00:26:39,902
and 1,000 tuna,
2,000 tuna go out.
442
00:26:39,946 --> 00:26:42,078
That is sustainable.
443
00:26:42,122 --> 00:26:45,342
- Luigi's Ligurian ancestors
learned this way of fishing
444
00:26:45,386 --> 00:26:48,737
in Tunisia, but
here in Carloforte,
445
00:26:48,781 --> 00:26:52,915
they've built a
community around it.
446
00:26:52,959 --> 00:26:55,265
And at his family
restaurant, Luigi is known
447
00:26:55,309 --> 00:26:58,965
to locals as the King of Tuna.
448
00:26:59,008 --> 00:27:01,054
What have you got, Luigi?
449
00:27:01,097 --> 00:27:03,796
- The tuna belly,
in our bellies.
450
00:27:05,972 --> 00:27:08,714
You put the belly in the belly.
- Yeah, belly in the belly.
451
00:27:08,757 --> 00:27:10,237
You want to try?
- Yes!
452
00:27:13,893 --> 00:27:15,590
Oh, my God, yes.
453
00:27:15,634 --> 00:27:17,026
That's the fatty...
454
00:27:17,070 --> 00:27:18,482
- Yes, this is...
This is the chutoro.
455
00:27:18,506 --> 00:27:20,595
- Yeah, the toro,
yeah. Mmm-mmm-mmm.
456
00:27:20,639 --> 00:27:23,859
- You want a taste?
- Yes.
457
00:27:23,903 --> 00:27:27,776
- I like this tuna because
the stomach is empty.
458
00:27:27,820 --> 00:27:30,213
- Once inside the tonnare nets,
459
00:27:30,257 --> 00:27:31,954
the tuna don't eat,
460
00:27:31,998 --> 00:27:33,913
so their flesh is uncontaminated
461
00:27:33,956 --> 00:27:35,697
by the flavors of other fish.
462
00:27:35,741 --> 00:27:38,134
Oh, man!
463
00:27:38,178 --> 00:27:39,483
Incredible.
464
00:27:39,527 --> 00:27:41,355
- Here, the taste is natural.
- Yeah.
465
00:27:41,398 --> 00:27:46,360
- No anchovies, no
mackerel, nothing.
466
00:27:46,403 --> 00:27:50,233
- Luigi's using this tuna
in a local family favorite,
467
00:27:50,277 --> 00:27:54,150
a pasta dish called
cassulli alla Carlofortina.
468
00:27:54,194 --> 00:27:57,763
- Olive oil, pine
nuts, and we blend.
469
00:27:57,806 --> 00:28:01,375
- He's combining it with
pesto and cassulli pasta,
470
00:28:01,418 --> 00:28:03,986
both rooted in
Ligurian tradition.
471
00:28:04,030 --> 00:28:07,860
- It's the pasta we
use for the Sunday.
472
00:28:07,903 --> 00:28:10,036
You know, when all people
come, when family come...
473
00:28:10,079 --> 00:28:11,864
- Right, right.
- And we do the pasta.
474
00:28:11,907 --> 00:28:13,692
- Your grandfather...
- Yeah.
475
00:28:13,735 --> 00:28:15,084
- Started this
restaurant, right?
476
00:28:15,128 --> 00:28:16,651
- Yeah, three generation.
477
00:28:16,695 --> 00:28:18,609
- And will your son do it too?
478
00:28:18,653 --> 00:28:20,307
- I wish.
479
00:28:20,350 --> 00:28:22,396
I wish.
480
00:28:22,439 --> 00:28:24,746
As you can expect, if
your family eats tuna
481
00:28:24,790 --> 00:28:27,706
day in and day out
for every meal,
482
00:28:27,749 --> 00:28:30,230
you get all sorts of ideas
about what to do with it.
483
00:28:30,273 --> 00:28:34,843
So you're gonna use
the boiled tuna.
484
00:28:34,887 --> 00:28:36,627
- The boiled tuna, yes.
- Right.
485
00:28:36,671 --> 00:28:38,586
Yeah, well...
486
00:28:38,629 --> 00:28:41,023
See, I've always
thought tuna should be
487
00:28:41,067 --> 00:28:45,506
cooked lightly or not at
all, but Luigi is adamant.
488
00:28:45,549 --> 00:28:48,509
- You want to taste?
- Sure.
489
00:28:48,552 --> 00:28:50,772
And for him, it's a
great way to retain
490
00:28:50,816 --> 00:28:52,643
the fish's natural moisture.
491
00:28:54,645 --> 00:28:56,299
It's good.
492
00:28:56,343 --> 00:28:57,779
I prefer that.
493
00:29:00,826 --> 00:29:02,741
- We take out the skin.
494
00:29:02,784 --> 00:29:05,744
And we put the tomatoes in.
495
00:29:08,050 --> 00:29:10,183
Now we get the tuna boiling.
496
00:29:10,226 --> 00:29:13,142
And we do that.
497
00:29:13,186 --> 00:29:14,404
- Beautiful pasta.
498
00:29:14,448 --> 00:29:16,885
- And now we put the pesto.
499
00:29:16,929 --> 00:29:19,105
- Yeah.
- Never cook the pesto.
500
00:29:19,148 --> 00:29:21,281
- No.
501
00:29:21,324 --> 00:29:22,935
- A nice portion.
502
00:29:25,633 --> 00:29:28,462
- Yeah, that's beautiful.
503
00:29:28,505 --> 00:29:31,073
- And just in the end, we
put the pecorino cheese.
504
00:29:31,117 --> 00:29:32,596
- A little pecorino.
- Yeah.
505
00:29:32,640 --> 00:29:34,120
You want a taste?
- Yeah!
506
00:29:34,163 --> 00:29:37,166
I thought you'd never ask.
507
00:29:37,210 --> 00:29:40,561
I'm still not convinced by
the idea of boiled tuna.
508
00:29:40,604 --> 00:29:41,910
- That's for you.
- Thank you.
509
00:29:41,954 --> 00:29:43,912
But it's Luigi's
family tradition,
510
00:29:43,956 --> 00:29:45,784
so I'm keeping an open mind.
511
00:29:50,876 --> 00:29:51,896
- It's okay? Gonna
be all right?
512
00:29:51,920 --> 00:29:53,748
Yeah.
513
00:29:53,792 --> 00:29:57,447
- I mean, who am I to argue
with the King of Tuna?
514
00:29:57,491 --> 00:30:00,711
That's very okay.
That's delicious.
515
00:30:00,755 --> 00:30:03,323
Who wants to look at
how beautiful that is?
516
00:30:05,455 --> 00:30:09,285
I'm never using any other
kind of tuna from now on.
517
00:30:09,329 --> 00:30:12,419
It's the sheer individuality
of people like Luigi
518
00:30:12,462 --> 00:30:15,509
that keeps Carloforte
feeling and tasting
519
00:30:15,552 --> 00:30:19,426
totally distinct from anywhere
else you'll find in Sardinia.
520
00:30:34,833 --> 00:30:35,833
- Buongiorno.
521
00:30:39,881 --> 00:30:40,882
- Si.
522
00:30:40,926 --> 00:30:42,449
Nice.
523
00:30:44,538 --> 00:30:46,192
Oh, my God.
524
00:30:49,369 --> 00:30:51,110
- Si.
525
00:30:51,153 --> 00:30:53,590
Doesn't it look like a pork pie?
526
00:30:53,634 --> 00:30:55,351
You can respond to me.
- It does look like a pork pie.
527
00:30:55,375 --> 00:30:57,812
- Thank you. Thanks.
Thanks for your help.
528
00:30:57,856 --> 00:31:00,293
Sitting on the northwest
coast of Sardinia
529
00:31:00,336 --> 00:31:02,817
is the city of Alghero,
530
00:31:02,861 --> 00:31:05,689
known to locals as Barceloneta.
531
00:31:05,733 --> 00:31:07,691
It's had a distinctly
Spanish flavor
532
00:31:07,735 --> 00:31:09,606
ever since the 14th century,
533
00:31:09,650 --> 00:31:11,913
when it was conquered
by the Kingdom of Aragon
534
00:31:11,957 --> 00:31:14,307
from northeast Spain.
535
00:31:15,482 --> 00:31:18,093
Protected by the sea
and the city walls,
536
00:31:18,137 --> 00:31:20,530
the people of Alghero
have a deep attachment
537
00:31:20,574 --> 00:31:22,402
to their local identity.
538
00:31:26,885 --> 00:31:28,234
At the local fish market,
539
00:31:28,277 --> 00:31:31,541
I'm meeting Chef
Antonietta Salaris,
540
00:31:31,585 --> 00:31:33,935
who considers herself
Algherese first
541
00:31:33,979 --> 00:31:35,763
and Sardinian second.
542
00:31:35,806 --> 00:31:38,592
Hey, Giuseppe.
543
00:31:53,868 --> 00:31:55,696
- My understanding
of the local dialect
544
00:31:55,739 --> 00:31:58,481
is limited, to say the least.
545
00:31:58,525 --> 00:32:00,744
But I've always
understood lobster.
546
00:32:13,888 --> 00:32:15,846
- Si, si. Si.
547
00:32:15,890 --> 00:32:16,891
- Okay.
548
00:32:18,893 --> 00:32:19,981
- Okay.
549
00:32:22,201 --> 00:32:24,116
- The pride of the
local community,
550
00:32:24,159 --> 00:32:25,856
Alghero's lobsters
are considered
551
00:32:25,900 --> 00:32:28,250
among the best in the world.
552
00:32:28,294 --> 00:32:30,426
And the secret to
their delicate flavor
553
00:32:30,470 --> 00:32:31,993
is in the local waters.
554
00:32:34,343 --> 00:32:36,650
The Gulf of Alghero is
saltier than the ocean
555
00:32:36,693 --> 00:32:39,609
and filtered by
a red coral reef.
556
00:32:39,653 --> 00:32:41,742
It's unusually clean.
557
00:32:41,785 --> 00:32:44,049
At Antonietta's fish restaurant,
558
00:32:44,092 --> 00:32:47,530
lobster, or the Queen of
the Sea, as locals call it,
559
00:32:47,574 --> 00:32:48,836
has pride of place.
560
00:32:55,886 --> 00:32:57,845
- Antonietta is
making a local dish
561
00:32:57,888 --> 00:32:59,890
called lobster alla Catalana,
562
00:32:59,934 --> 00:33:01,892
which is prepared
with a fresh salad.
563
00:33:37,406 --> 00:33:38,973
Si.
564
00:33:47,938 --> 00:33:50,332
- Whoa! Look at that.
565
00:33:50,376 --> 00:33:53,857
Antonietta belongs to a
long line of Sardinian women
566
00:33:53,901 --> 00:33:57,513
who, since medieval times,
have managed not only the home
567
00:33:57,557 --> 00:33:59,428
but often the family business.
568
00:33:59,472 --> 00:34:00,864
Mmm-mmm-mmm.
569
00:34:10,004 --> 00:34:12,224
- Oh, my God. Yeah.
570
00:34:12,267 --> 00:34:15,488
In America, the eggs
tend to be thrown out.
571
00:34:15,531 --> 00:34:18,404
But Antonietta blends them
with a simple vinaigrette
572
00:34:18,447 --> 00:34:20,014
to add a salty sweet flavor.
573
00:34:31,373 --> 00:34:33,723
- Why is that sound
so satisfying?
574
00:34:33,767 --> 00:34:36,509
On goes the Catalan
salad of onions,
575
00:34:36,552 --> 00:34:38,337
vinaigrette, and tomatoes.
576
00:34:38,380 --> 00:34:40,469
But the local
lobster is the star.
577
00:34:40,513 --> 00:34:43,603
Look at that. Oh, my God.
578
00:34:46,127 --> 00:34:48,216
- Beautiful.
579
00:34:48,260 --> 00:34:51,828
Alghero lobster has
admirers across the world.
580
00:34:51,872 --> 00:34:54,135
Queen Elizabeth II
even requested it
581
00:34:54,179 --> 00:34:55,267
for her wedding banquet.
582
00:34:56,833 --> 00:34:58,792
- Prego.
- Grazie. Oh, my gosh.
583
00:34:58,835 --> 00:35:00,098
So beautiful.
584
00:35:02,709 --> 00:35:04,493
- But there's room
for only one sovereign
585
00:35:04,537 --> 00:35:05,755
in this restaurant.
586
00:35:16,244 --> 00:35:18,420
- Mmm.
- Bravo.
587
00:35:33,087 --> 00:35:34,175
- Si.
588
00:35:44,229 --> 00:35:47,362
- Sardinian Catalans
have had 600 years
589
00:35:47,406 --> 00:35:50,060
to develop the perfect
way to eat a lobster.
590
00:35:50,104 --> 00:35:52,628
And here, under
Antonietta's reign,
591
00:35:52,672 --> 00:35:54,891
no one will be
allowed to forget it.
592
00:35:54,935 --> 00:35:56,893
Wow.
593
00:35:56,937 --> 00:35:58,547
This is so good.
594
00:35:58,591 --> 00:36:00,506
I have to toast to you
because this is just
595
00:36:00,549 --> 00:36:03,857
so f... delicious.
596
00:36:03,900 --> 00:36:05,424
Cheers.
597
00:36:05,467 --> 00:36:06,860
- Cheers, everybody.
598
00:36:26,445 --> 00:36:28,708
- Across the island's interior,
599
00:36:28,751 --> 00:36:31,972
many smaller communities
have fallen into decay,
600
00:36:32,015 --> 00:36:36,890
as jobs in rural industries
have become fewer and fewer.
601
00:36:36,933 --> 00:36:39,849
But in Battista, in
Northeast Sardinia,
602
00:36:39,893 --> 00:36:44,158
baker Simonetta Bazzu came
up with a radical plan
603
00:36:44,202 --> 00:36:46,639
to bring her family
village back to life.
604
00:36:46,682 --> 00:36:47,814
She bought it.
605
00:36:50,556 --> 00:36:51,557
- Si.
606
00:36:56,910 --> 00:36:58,999
- Simonetta fears that
ancient ways of cooking
607
00:36:59,042 --> 00:37:01,958
could be lost as people
leave the island,
608
00:37:02,002 --> 00:37:03,960
so she's restoring
these buildings
609
00:37:04,004 --> 00:37:06,876
and creating a pioneering
cooking school here.
610
00:37:17,322 --> 00:37:18,453
- Si.
611
00:37:22,152 --> 00:37:24,633
As part of her mission,
she's been gathering
612
00:37:24,677 --> 00:37:27,593
the island's endangered recipes.
613
00:37:27,636 --> 00:37:31,292
So far, she's discovered over
a thousand types of bread...
614
00:37:31,336 --> 00:37:32,772
My God.
615
00:37:32,815 --> 00:37:34,774
Often created for
special occasions.
616
00:37:34,817 --> 00:37:36,297
What is that?
617
00:37:36,341 --> 00:37:38,343
- And this is the
bread for Easter.
618
00:37:38,386 --> 00:37:42,477
And we make for...
to give children.
619
00:37:42,521 --> 00:37:43,783
- Oh, really?
- Yes.
620
00:37:43,826 --> 00:37:45,915
- Looks like a mummy.
- And... mm-mm.
621
00:37:45,959 --> 00:37:48,962
- One of the island's most
celebrated bread recipes
622
00:37:49,005 --> 00:37:53,488
is pane carasau, a
3,000-year-old flatbread.
623
00:37:53,532 --> 00:37:55,795
Traditionally, women would
come together to produce
624
00:37:55,838 --> 00:37:59,059
large batches all at once.
625
00:37:59,102 --> 00:38:01,540
And Simonetta has
brought in two recruits,
626
00:38:01,583 --> 00:38:04,934
Chiara and Francesca,
to demonstrate.
627
00:38:04,978 --> 00:38:06,545
You're the best
dressed bread makers
628
00:38:06,588 --> 00:38:07,807
I've ever seen in my life.
629
00:38:07,850 --> 00:38:08,938
- Yes.
- Yes.
630
00:38:08,982 --> 00:38:10,766
So you make the dough.
631
00:38:21,386 --> 00:38:22,387
- Mm-hmm.
632
00:38:26,652 --> 00:38:27,870
- Si.
633
00:38:30,525 --> 00:38:32,048
- Beautiful.
634
00:38:32,092 --> 00:38:35,313
Known as carta da
musica, music paper,
635
00:38:35,356 --> 00:38:37,402
the bread is meant
be rolled so thin
636
00:38:37,445 --> 00:38:39,447
that music can be
read through it.
637
00:38:41,449 --> 00:38:42,449
- Oh, yeah.
638
00:38:44,931 --> 00:38:47,934
- Nowadays, pane
carasau tends to be made
639
00:38:47,977 --> 00:38:49,675
using conventional ovens.
640
00:38:49,718 --> 00:38:52,068
But Simonetta prefers
the authentic flavor
641
00:38:52,112 --> 00:38:53,679
of the wood-fired oven,
642
00:38:53,722 --> 00:38:56,116
even if it requires
a production line.
643
00:39:02,470 --> 00:39:03,558
- Si.
644
00:39:03,602 --> 00:39:04,864
In the extreme heat,
645
00:39:04,907 --> 00:39:06,561
the dough inflates
like a balloon.
646
00:39:06,605 --> 00:39:08,737
Yes.
647
00:39:08,781 --> 00:39:09,912
It's like a magic act.
648
00:39:12,785 --> 00:39:16,484
- But this traditional method
comes with its challenges.
649
00:39:16,528 --> 00:39:19,966
- Ooh! No.
- Oh! Aww.
650
00:39:20,009 --> 00:39:23,186
Ah! Ah!
- Ah!
651
00:39:29,105 --> 00:39:30,411
- No.
652
00:39:35,285 --> 00:39:37,418
- While Simonetta's
baking the dough,
653
00:39:37,462 --> 00:39:40,726
Chiara and Francesca
slice the balloons in two.
654
00:39:40,769 --> 00:39:42,815
Mmm-mmm-mmm.
655
00:39:42,858 --> 00:39:45,557
Each half is then put back
in the oven for a few seconds
656
00:39:45,600 --> 00:39:47,428
to toast.
657
00:39:51,911 --> 00:39:53,782
- These ancient
methods still have
658
00:39:53,826 --> 00:39:55,958
the power to bring
people together,
659
00:39:56,002 --> 00:39:57,482
but the proof is in the pudding.
660
00:39:59,745 --> 00:40:02,487
No, I'm kidding. I'm
kidding. I'm kidding.
661
00:40:02,530 --> 00:40:04,097
It's delicious.
662
00:40:06,055 --> 00:40:09,407
In the Battista of old,
food was in short supply,
663
00:40:09,450 --> 00:40:11,278
so families would
cook a warming dish
664
00:40:11,321 --> 00:40:13,628
with any stale bread left over.
665
00:40:27,076 --> 00:40:28,121
- Si, si, si.
666
00:40:30,515 --> 00:40:31,994
- Si.
667
00:40:32,038 --> 00:40:33,866
The pane carasau is
layered with a lamb
668
00:40:33,909 --> 00:40:37,870
and vegetable broth, local
cheeses, and wild mint.
669
00:40:37,913 --> 00:40:40,481
It's then cooked for 15 minutes.
670
00:40:40,525 --> 00:40:43,353
How beautiful.
671
00:40:43,397 --> 00:40:45,312
Served at big
family celebrations,
672
00:40:45,355 --> 00:40:48,054
the dish is known
as zuppa cuata.
673
00:40:54,626 --> 00:40:56,062
No.
- Yeah. Yeah.
674
00:41:02,329 --> 00:41:03,809
- Jesus.
675
00:41:09,510 --> 00:41:11,599
- A hidden soup.
676
00:41:11,643 --> 00:41:13,514
- Yes.
- Oh, I love that.
677
00:41:18,171 --> 00:41:19,477
Yeah?
678
00:41:22,828 --> 00:41:25,221
- Wow.
679
00:41:25,265 --> 00:41:27,572
In Simonetta's hidden soup lies
680
00:41:27,615 --> 00:41:29,487
an unconcealed commitment.
681
00:41:31,619 --> 00:41:34,535
By reviving ancient
tradition, she'll breathe life
682
00:41:34,579 --> 00:41:36,581
into her village once more.
683
00:41:36,624 --> 00:41:39,888
And this spirit extends
across all of Sardinia.
684
00:41:41,673 --> 00:41:43,892
There's a sense
that each community,
685
00:41:43,936 --> 00:41:46,547
however small, enriches
the whole island.
686
00:41:48,723 --> 00:41:51,683
And it may be that
Sardinia's very diversity,
687
00:41:51,726 --> 00:41:54,642
its bits and pieces,
is exactly what defines
688
00:41:54,686 --> 00:41:57,123
the character of this island.
689
00:41:57,166 --> 00:41:59,386
A mini continent indeed.
49207
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