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- If you strap on
your skis in the Alps
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00:00:10,097 --> 00:00:11,837
and head straight
down the mountains,
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00:00:11,881 --> 00:00:15,928
you'll find yourself in the
fertile plains of Piedmont.
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00:00:15,972 --> 00:00:19,062
This region, tucked into the
northern corner of Italy,
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00:00:19,106 --> 00:00:21,630
is a wonder offering up
some of the best produce
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00:00:21,673 --> 00:00:23,023
in the world,
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from exquisite white truffles
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00:00:25,286 --> 00:00:26,809
to rice for risotto
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00:00:26,852 --> 00:00:28,854
and the finest wines.
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00:00:28,898 --> 00:00:31,379
- It's incredible how,
really, Barolo, um,
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00:00:31,422 --> 00:00:32,728
you put it in a glass
12
00:00:32,771 --> 00:00:35,165
and in ten minutes,
it's changed completely.
13
00:00:35,209 --> 00:00:38,473
- The people here are fueled
by passion and ambition.
14
00:00:40,997 --> 00:00:42,453
- They just don't
like to shout it up.
15
00:00:42,477 --> 00:00:44,131
Oh, my God.
16
00:00:44,174 --> 00:00:45,958
I'm Stanley Tucci.
17
00:00:46,002 --> 00:00:48,613
I'm Italian on both sides,
and I'm traveling across Italy
18
00:00:48,657 --> 00:00:51,790
to discover how the food
in each of this country's
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00:00:51,834 --> 00:00:56,012
20 regions is as unique as
the people and their past.
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00:00:58,145 --> 00:01:00,712
- It resurrects a dead person.
21
00:01:00,756 --> 00:01:03,324
Piedmont's a place
that's always innovative.
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00:01:03,367 --> 00:01:05,369
- You have to be a
little bit crazy.
23
00:01:05,413 --> 00:01:07,067
Yes.
24
00:01:07,110 --> 00:01:09,504
- Here, you have to
expect the unexpected...
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00:01:11,680 --> 00:01:13,899
And come at things
a little differently
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00:01:13,943 --> 00:01:15,771
to unearth its real treasures.
27
00:01:35,356 --> 00:01:37,967
- Italy has a
reputation for coffee.
28
00:01:38,010 --> 00:01:41,318
But it's taken to
another level in Turin.
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00:01:41,362 --> 00:01:43,320
Its graceful squares
and elegant buildings
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00:01:43,364 --> 00:01:45,714
are the perfect setting to
linger over something potent
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00:01:45,757 --> 00:01:47,498
and warming.
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00:01:47,542 --> 00:01:50,849
If you squint, you can even
imagine yourself in Paris,
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and that's no accident.
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00:01:53,113 --> 00:01:55,376
Turin is the capital
of Piedmont...
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00:01:55,419 --> 00:01:57,943
A region in the extreme
northwest of Italy,
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directly on the
border with France.
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00:02:00,250 --> 00:02:03,384
Having such a larger-than-life
neighbor has left its mark.
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00:02:03,427 --> 00:02:07,562
French ideas, customs,
and food are everywhere.
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00:02:07,605 --> 00:02:10,391
Oh, buongiorno.
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00:02:10,434 --> 00:02:13,785
But if there's a drink
that sums it up, it's this:
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00:02:13,829 --> 00:02:18,486
Bicerin, a potion that's been
all the rage since the 1760's.
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00:02:18,529 --> 00:02:20,836
Can I put my spoon in it?
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00:02:20,879 --> 00:02:22,881
I know that sounds like
a naughty question.
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00:02:30,541 --> 00:02:32,326
That's really good.
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00:02:32,369 --> 00:02:36,417
coffee, chocolate, cream...
46
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Different temperatures.
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The French may have
introduced chocolate to Turin,
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00:02:42,205 --> 00:02:44,555
but only Italians could
have come up with a way
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00:02:44,599 --> 00:02:47,167
to suspend three
ingredients like this.
50
00:02:50,735 --> 00:02:53,260
- Bicerin packs a
powerful punch...
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00:02:53,303 --> 00:02:56,176
Just the stuff to
fuel revolutions.
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00:02:56,219 --> 00:02:59,570
One of its greatest fans was a
19th-century Turin aristocrat
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00:02:59,614 --> 00:03:00,702
with a big idea.
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00:03:04,445 --> 00:03:07,578
Food writer and local
historian Paolo Vizzari,
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00:03:07,622 --> 00:03:09,450
has agreed to fill
me in on the details.
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00:03:10,625 --> 00:03:11,626
So good to see you.
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00:03:13,280 --> 00:03:15,020
Well, we got a nice day for it.
58
00:03:15,064 --> 00:03:17,675
So tell me about that guy.
59
00:03:17,719 --> 00:03:20,504
- Camillo Benso,
conte di Cavour.
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00:03:20,548 --> 00:03:24,465
He was the politician behind
the Italian unification.
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00:03:24,508 --> 00:03:25,988
- Before unification,
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00:03:26,031 --> 00:03:28,860
modern Italy as we
know it didn't exist.
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00:03:28,904 --> 00:03:32,429
Instead, it was a patchwork
of dukedoms and kingdoms...
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00:03:32,473 --> 00:03:34,431
The Spanish
controlling the south,
65
00:03:34,475 --> 00:03:36,912
and the Austrians,
the northeast.
66
00:03:36,955 --> 00:03:39,306
The Kingdom of Sardinia,
that ruled Piedmont,
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00:03:39,349 --> 00:03:41,525
led the fight to throw
out the foreign powers
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00:03:41,569 --> 00:03:44,528
and build an Italy
run by Italians.
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00:03:44,572 --> 00:03:46,008
What year is this now?
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00:03:46,051 --> 00:03:47,575
- 1861.
- '61.
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00:03:47,618 --> 00:03:51,318
And Turin then becomes
its first capital
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00:03:51,361 --> 00:03:54,146
for like... a minute and a
half or something, right?
73
00:03:54,190 --> 00:03:55,298
- Yeah, something like that.
74
00:03:55,322 --> 00:03:57,672
But we still have
a huge history,
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00:03:57,715 --> 00:04:00,892
especially in the
feeding of people.
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00:04:00,936 --> 00:04:03,547
- Turin may have lost out
to Rome in the long run,
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00:04:03,591 --> 00:04:05,288
but during its time
as the capital,
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00:04:05,332 --> 00:04:07,377
Italy became a modern
democratic nation
79
00:04:07,421 --> 00:04:09,249
for the first time in history.
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00:04:10,859 --> 00:04:14,515
- This used to be the very
first Italian parliament.
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00:04:14,558 --> 00:04:16,995
- And Cavour, Italy's
first prime minister,
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00:04:17,039 --> 00:04:19,302
had good reason for
choosing this location
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00:04:19,346 --> 00:04:21,217
for the center of government.
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00:04:21,261 --> 00:04:23,088
- In front of the parliament,
85
00:04:23,132 --> 00:04:25,265
Cavour had his
favorite restaurant.
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00:04:25,308 --> 00:04:28,442
Look at the distance.
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00:04:28,485 --> 00:04:30,531
- That's no more than 30 yards.
88
00:04:30,574 --> 00:04:32,533
I see we have the
same priorities.
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00:04:32,576 --> 00:04:34,186
Ristorante del Cambio
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00:04:34,230 --> 00:04:37,668
first began serving
Turin's elite back in 1757,
91
00:04:37,712 --> 00:04:41,106
and its doors have
been open ever since.
92
00:04:41,150 --> 00:04:42,499
Let's see... no, it's locked!
93
00:04:42,543 --> 00:04:44,109
Oh, well.
94
00:04:44,153 --> 00:04:46,111
We'll have to get some pizza.
95
00:04:46,155 --> 00:04:48,766
Actually, there's a
wonderful Chinese restaurant
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00:04:48,810 --> 00:04:50,464
around the corner there.
97
00:04:52,379 --> 00:04:54,206
- Luckily, the staff
take pity on us,
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00:04:54,250 --> 00:04:56,948
and we get in before
the lunch rush.
99
00:04:56,992 --> 00:04:59,081
Welcome to Versailles.
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00:04:59,124 --> 00:05:00,648
- It's a time warp, isn't it?
101
00:05:00,691 --> 00:05:03,520
- And this is Cavour's table.
102
00:05:03,564 --> 00:05:06,915
Every day, he used to
have lunch in that seat,
103
00:05:06,958 --> 00:05:09,831
and from there, he could see
if his assistant was waving
104
00:05:09,874 --> 00:05:11,920
his handkerchief
from the balcony,
105
00:05:11,963 --> 00:05:13,724
which was the signal that he
had to go back to the office.
106
00:05:13,748 --> 00:05:15,943
- And he had to go back,
'cause he would just stay here.
107
00:05:15,967 --> 00:05:17,404
- Yeah, yeah, for hours.
108
00:05:17,447 --> 00:05:19,667
My agent does that.
109
00:05:22,322 --> 00:05:24,062
- Here, tradition is everything.
110
00:05:24,106 --> 00:05:27,370
But Del Cambio's head
chef, Matteo Baronetto,
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00:05:27,414 --> 00:05:28,937
has made it his mission to drag
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00:05:28,980 --> 00:05:31,679
this historical landmark
into the 21st century
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00:05:31,722 --> 00:05:33,550
while still
preserving the essence
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00:05:33,594 --> 00:05:36,074
of what makes the
restaurant unique.
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00:05:36,118 --> 00:05:36,988
Matteo.
- How are you?
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- Stanley.
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00:05:38,163 --> 00:05:39,817
It's a high-wire balancing act
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00:05:39,861 --> 00:05:41,993
that's earned him
a Michelin star.
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00:05:59,359 --> 00:06:01,709
- Matteo's not
your typical chef.
120
00:06:01,752 --> 00:06:03,450
- I can... I can see that, yes.
121
00:06:15,331 --> 00:06:17,464
Okay, enjoy.
122
00:06:17,507 --> 00:06:20,467
- Foie gras is served with a
typically Italian vegetable,
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00:06:20,510 --> 00:06:23,383
cavolo nero... black kale.
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00:06:23,426 --> 00:06:24,775
Wow.
125
00:06:24,819 --> 00:06:27,299
I don't have anything to say.
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00:06:27,343 --> 00:06:30,302
It's incredible. It's an
amazing mix of flavors.
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00:06:30,346 --> 00:06:31,956
The acidity, the sweetness...
128
00:06:32,000 --> 00:06:33,915
- Yeah, I think it's a
good symbol for Turino
129
00:06:33,958 --> 00:06:37,614
because it's super French
in the base, but then...
130
00:06:37,658 --> 00:06:39,486
- But then it becomes Italian.
131
00:06:41,226 --> 00:06:44,186
Matteo's unique take
on Piedmontese cuisine
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00:06:44,229 --> 00:06:46,449
pulls in Turin's chic crowd.
133
00:06:46,493 --> 00:06:48,625
In the 19th century,
Cavour was a fan
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00:06:48,669 --> 00:06:50,714
of aristocratic French food.
135
00:06:50,758 --> 00:06:54,588
But he also loved more
homey, regional dishes.
136
00:06:54,631 --> 00:06:57,591
His favorite was a
Piedmontese classic:
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00:06:57,634 --> 00:07:02,117
finanziera, a stew made from
the cheaper parts of animals.
138
00:07:10,386 --> 00:07:11,648
Brain.
- Veal brain.
139
00:07:16,566 --> 00:07:17,978
- So the tes... like testes.
- Balls.
140
00:07:18,002 --> 00:07:20,483
- Yeah, the balls.
- All right.
141
00:07:22,180 --> 00:07:24,052
And in the middle of...
- Of the spine.
142
00:07:24,095 --> 00:07:25,706
- The spine, yeah.
- Ah.
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00:07:30,101 --> 00:07:31,755
- Offals, besides foie gras,
144
00:07:31,799 --> 00:07:33,931
were not that used
in the noble food.
145
00:07:33,975 --> 00:07:36,630
So this used to be
more regional food
146
00:07:36,673 --> 00:07:38,414
than workers' food.
- Peasant food.
147
00:07:38,458 --> 00:07:40,416
- Peasant food.
148
00:07:40,460 --> 00:07:42,418
- Finanziera is so associated
149
00:07:42,462 --> 00:07:44,725
with Cavour and this
restaurant, that Matteo
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00:07:44,768 --> 00:07:46,466
can't take it off the menu.
151
00:07:53,298 --> 00:07:54,735
- It's almost a rough ragu.
152
00:08:06,355 --> 00:08:07,795
- That's it?
- It's like the opposite
153
00:08:07,835 --> 00:08:09,750
of what people try to do, no?
154
00:08:09,793 --> 00:08:11,969
Hide it.
155
00:08:12,013 --> 00:08:15,059
- We must do taste.
- Yeah, let's go.
156
00:08:15,103 --> 00:08:17,845
The
traditional finanziera.
157
00:08:20,456 --> 00:08:22,589
This is really delicious...
158
00:08:22,632 --> 00:08:24,242
and delicate...
159
00:08:24,286 --> 00:08:25,916
'cause you think it's
not gonna be delicate.
160
00:08:25,940 --> 00:08:28,420
- That's also why Cavour
loved these kind of dishes,
161
00:08:28,464 --> 00:08:31,772
because he was grown
up with French palate,
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00:08:31,815 --> 00:08:34,209
but in the end, he could
recognize how delicate it was.
163
00:08:34,252 --> 00:08:35,819
- Yeah.
164
00:08:35,863 --> 00:08:37,952
Matteo's reinvention.
165
00:08:44,611 --> 00:08:47,352
Dip in the sauce and you taste.
- Okay.
166
00:08:49,398 --> 00:08:50,398
Mmm.
167
00:08:52,096 --> 00:08:55,273
I was afraid of the testicles.
168
00:08:55,317 --> 00:08:56,947
But I'm not, no.
- They're good in there, huh?
169
00:08:56,971 --> 00:08:58,973
- They're absolutely delicious.
170
00:08:59,016 --> 00:09:01,323
I have to say, I love offal.
171
00:09:01,366 --> 00:09:03,804
I do. But even... even I
172
00:09:03,847 --> 00:09:05,588
was a little, like...
173
00:09:05,632 --> 00:09:08,373
But it is really,
really delicious.
174
00:09:08,417 --> 00:09:09,636
That kidney?
- Yeah.
175
00:09:11,463 --> 00:09:13,050
- I love it.
- Like a cherry on the cake.
176
00:09:13,074 --> 00:09:15,163
Oh, my God, I love it.
177
00:09:15,206 --> 00:09:17,513
- In these dishes
that Cavour loved,
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00:09:17,557 --> 00:09:20,255
we find the contradictions
of Italy's birth.
179
00:09:20,298 --> 00:09:22,649
Cavour thought French
and ate French.
180
00:09:22,692 --> 00:09:25,260
But he also believed
in Piedmont and Italy,
181
00:09:25,303 --> 00:09:27,958
and he loved the regional food.
182
00:09:28,002 --> 00:09:29,569
You're amazing.
183
00:09:29,612 --> 00:09:30,700
Amazing. Thank you so much.
184
00:09:30,744 --> 00:09:31,824
You're incredible.
- Grazie.
185
00:09:40,362 --> 00:09:42,799
- Piedmont has many
firsts to its name.
186
00:09:42,843 --> 00:09:44,975
It's the birthplace
of modern Italy,
187
00:09:45,019 --> 00:09:47,848
and Turin was its first capital.
188
00:09:47,891 --> 00:09:50,677
But now, I'm going to
explore another first...
189
00:09:50,720 --> 00:09:52,635
A food first.
190
00:09:52,679 --> 00:09:54,594
So I'm heading to the
191
00:09:54,637 --> 00:09:56,639
University of
Gastronomic Sciences,
192
00:09:56,683 --> 00:10:00,077
which is run by the
slow food movement.
193
00:10:00,121 --> 00:10:04,691
The genesis of the slow food
movement was when they opened
194
00:10:04,734 --> 00:10:11,654
a McDonald's at the Spanish
Steps in Rome in the 1980s,
195
00:10:11,698 --> 00:10:14,004
and a group of people
protested, and that was
196
00:10:14,048 --> 00:10:15,615
the beginning of the movement.
197
00:10:15,658 --> 00:10:19,444
It has, without question,
significantly changed
198
00:10:19,488 --> 00:10:23,797
the world of food as we know it.
199
00:10:23,840 --> 00:10:26,234
The campus is an
hour south of Turin
200
00:10:26,277 --> 00:10:28,149
in the small town of Pollenzo.
201
00:10:28,192 --> 00:10:31,021
And when I say small,
I mean... small.
202
00:10:31,065 --> 00:10:33,545
Like, tiny.
203
00:10:33,589 --> 00:10:35,983
Could we
go on smaller streets?
204
00:10:41,466 --> 00:10:43,555
It's like a test.
205
00:10:43,599 --> 00:10:45,166
What an amazing spot.
206
00:10:47,603 --> 00:10:50,519
- This is clearly not your
average college campus.
207
00:10:50,562 --> 00:10:53,870
Students here get to study in
a 19th-century Gothic palace,
208
00:10:53,914 --> 00:10:57,047
originally built for
Piedmont's royal family.
209
00:10:57,091 --> 00:10:58,005
All right, let's go.
210
00:11:05,882 --> 00:11:09,190
- I'm meeting Carlo Petrini,
the founder of the university
211
00:11:09,233 --> 00:11:12,541
and creator of the
slow food movement.
212
00:11:12,584 --> 00:11:14,891
You might say a
real-life caped crusader.
213
00:12:05,463 --> 00:12:07,944
- Slow food's mission is
to fight against bland,
214
00:12:07,988 --> 00:12:10,164
industrialized food.
215
00:12:10,207 --> 00:12:13,123
The university teaches the
value of regional specialties
216
00:12:13,167 --> 00:12:16,823
from olive oil to wine.
217
00:12:16,866 --> 00:12:21,088
It's all about savoring
food, drink, company,
218
00:12:21,131 --> 00:12:24,439
the wonderful ritual of eating.
219
00:12:24,482 --> 00:12:26,136
I've come back to Turin to see
220
00:12:26,180 --> 00:12:28,530
slow food's philosophy in action
221
00:12:28,573 --> 00:12:30,706
and understand the
movement's wider impact
222
00:12:30,750 --> 00:12:32,099
across this region and beyond.
223
00:12:32,142 --> 00:12:33,404
- Hi.
- Hi.
224
00:12:33,448 --> 00:12:34,773
- Nice to meet you.
- Nice to meet...
225
00:12:34,797 --> 00:12:36,364
- I'm Carlo. Welcome
to Piola Da Celso.
226
00:12:36,407 --> 00:12:37,800
- Grazie.Hello.
227
00:12:37,844 --> 00:12:38,975
- Elizabeta.
- Elizabeta.
228
00:12:39,019 --> 00:12:41,673
- Elizabeta.
229
00:12:41,717 --> 00:12:44,676
- Piola Da Celso is a
family-run business.
230
00:12:44,720 --> 00:12:46,330
- Elizabeta does the cooking
231
00:12:46,374 --> 00:12:48,245
and her son, Carlo,
serves the customers.
232
00:12:50,160 --> 00:12:53,250
Today, Elizabeta is making
a Piedmontese specialty:
233
00:12:53,294 --> 00:12:56,776
bagna càuda, a warm sauce
made from anchovies and garlic
234
00:12:56,819 --> 00:12:58,865
that you dip vegetables into.
235
00:12:58,908 --> 00:13:01,650
It's a dish that a few
years ago was in danger
236
00:13:01,693 --> 00:13:03,783
of disappearing
from restaurants.
237
00:13:03,826 --> 00:13:05,654
- Bagna càuda is a
traditional dish,
238
00:13:05,697 --> 00:13:08,962
and not everyone
wants to eat something
239
00:13:09,005 --> 00:13:10,572
that is very traditional.
- Yeah.
240
00:13:10,615 --> 00:13:13,183
Is that because of the
slow food movement?
241
00:13:13,227 --> 00:13:16,012
Yes it is.
242
00:13:22,192 --> 00:13:24,281
- I've been told
Elizabeta's bagna càuda
243
00:13:24,325 --> 00:13:26,109
is the best in town.
244
00:13:26,153 --> 00:13:28,590
Where did bagna càuda come from?
245
00:13:28,633 --> 00:13:31,680
- It was for poor people,
because anchovies with salt
246
00:13:31,723 --> 00:13:32,942
were very, very cheap.
247
00:13:32,986 --> 00:13:34,944
- And it gives an
incredible flavor too.
248
00:13:34,988 --> 00:13:37,033
- I mean...
- Incredible flavor
249
00:13:37,077 --> 00:13:39,383
and incredible breath.
- Bad breath?
250
00:13:39,427 --> 00:13:40,558
- Oh, yes.
- Does it?
251
00:13:40,602 --> 00:13:41,995
- Yes... the garlic kills
252
00:13:42,038 --> 00:13:44,954
almost everyone you can
have in front of you.
253
00:13:48,523 --> 00:13:50,240
Well, it wouldn't be the
first time I've ended up
254
00:13:50,264 --> 00:13:51,874
reeking of garlic.
255
00:13:51,918 --> 00:13:53,558
The crew will just
have to put up with it.
256
00:13:55,922 --> 00:13:56,923
- Si, si, si.
257
00:14:18,205 --> 00:14:21,121
- There are a lot of anchovies.
- I noticed.
258
00:14:21,164 --> 00:14:22,838
I don't think there are
anymore left in the ocean.
259
00:14:28,563 --> 00:14:29,956
- It's very particular dish.
260
00:14:29,999 --> 00:14:32,741
You can find it
only in Piedmont.
261
00:14:32,784 --> 00:14:34,395
- Yeah.
- And not in every restaurant.
262
00:14:34,438 --> 00:14:35,438
It's very rare.
- Yeah.
263
00:14:37,311 --> 00:14:38,660
- Sorry. Sorry.
264
00:14:44,622 --> 00:14:47,321
- It resurrects a dead person.
265
00:14:47,364 --> 00:14:49,604
- She want to know if you just
said "to put some energy."
266
00:14:53,414 --> 00:14:54,806
- Finished? Oh, all right.
267
00:14:56,765 --> 00:15:00,116
Elizabeta cooks everything
herself, fresh every day.
268
00:15:00,160 --> 00:15:01,944
But it seems embracing
the traditional
269
00:15:01,988 --> 00:15:04,338
means doing without
modern appliances.
270
00:15:10,431 --> 00:15:11,911
- Si. I would
love it, actually.
271
00:15:30,407 --> 00:15:31,713
- My new favorite word.
272
00:15:36,457 --> 00:15:37,762
Mmm.
273
00:15:39,416 --> 00:15:40,983
Oh, my God.
274
00:15:44,073 --> 00:15:45,205
- That is amazing.
275
00:15:46,423 --> 00:15:48,251
Mm.
276
00:15:48,295 --> 00:15:49,426
Si.
277
00:15:49,470 --> 00:15:51,124
Mmm.
278
00:15:51,167 --> 00:15:53,082
If I smell of
garlic, I don't care.
279
00:15:53,126 --> 00:15:54,344
Well, I'm starving.
280
00:15:54,388 --> 00:15:56,825
Is the chef good?
- Yes.
281
00:16:01,569 --> 00:16:04,137
- The classic, if slightly
unusual combination
282
00:16:04,180 --> 00:16:06,530
of veal with a tuna
and caper sauce.
283
00:16:11,187 --> 00:16:14,495
Meat-filled ravioli
bathed in roasting juices
284
00:16:14,538 --> 00:16:15,713
called agnolotti.
285
00:16:18,629 --> 00:16:20,631
- Oh, my God.
286
00:16:20,675 --> 00:16:22,546
Wow. Wow.
287
00:16:22,590 --> 00:16:24,766
And finally, the
local specialty:
288
00:16:24,809 --> 00:16:26,637
roasted shoulder of veal.
289
00:16:30,772 --> 00:16:33,079
- It's like a 11 out of 10.
290
00:16:33,122 --> 00:16:34,732
Oh!
291
00:16:37,605 --> 00:16:39,737
It's so good.
- You are very kind.
292
00:16:39,781 --> 00:16:43,611
- No, I'm not kind.
Well, I'm not being kind.
293
00:16:43,654 --> 00:16:45,874
In Piedmont, traditional,
regional food
294
00:16:45,917 --> 00:16:47,484
is very much alive and well.
295
00:16:49,051 --> 00:16:50,051
- She should be.
296
00:16:53,229 --> 00:16:55,797
- It's all about passion.
- Yeah.
297
00:17:07,287 --> 00:17:08,940
- What pizza is to Naples,
298
00:17:08,984 --> 00:17:12,031
risotto is to Piedmont.
299
00:17:12,074 --> 00:17:13,597
Half the rice grown
in the country
300
00:17:13,641 --> 00:17:16,078
comes from this region.
301
00:17:16,122 --> 00:17:18,994
It thrives on flood plains
in the Po River Valley,
302
00:17:19,038 --> 00:17:21,388
northeast of Turin,
where its irrigated
303
00:17:21,431 --> 00:17:23,564
by melting glacier
water from the Alps.
304
00:17:26,480 --> 00:17:29,439
The town of Vercelli
is Italy's rice capital
305
00:17:29,483 --> 00:17:30,962
with the risotterie,
306
00:17:31,006 --> 00:17:34,183
places specializing in
risotto, everywhere.
307
00:17:34,227 --> 00:17:37,186
But I've heard the best one
is, rather surprisingly,
308
00:17:37,230 --> 00:17:39,667
hiding at the back
of 1960s hotel.
309
00:17:42,757 --> 00:17:43,757
Oh, there it is.
310
00:17:46,021 --> 00:17:47,892
Unassuming is the word.
311
00:17:56,466 --> 00:17:57,946
Hi.
312
00:17:57,989 --> 00:17:59,078
- Buongiorno.
- Buongiorno.
313
00:18:02,516 --> 00:18:03,516
Thank you.
314
00:18:05,562 --> 00:18:07,912
- Brothers Christian
and Manuel Costardi
315
00:18:07,956 --> 00:18:09,740
pay homage to rice,
316
00:18:09,784 --> 00:18:11,916
serving it in modern,
inventive ways
317
00:18:11,960 --> 00:18:16,660
to diners who travel the
world to taste their risotto.
318
00:18:16,704 --> 00:18:18,314
- We start with the rice.
319
00:18:18,358 --> 00:18:19,750
- This is your rice.
320
00:18:19,794 --> 00:18:22,405
- Yeah, this is, like,
a selection that we do
321
00:18:22,449 --> 00:18:27,802
with a farm close to Vercelli
for the best rice for risotto.
322
00:18:27,845 --> 00:18:30,718
It is carnaroli, and we do
the roasting of the rice.
323
00:18:30,761 --> 00:18:34,504
It's one of the most important
procedure for the risotto.
324
00:18:34,548 --> 00:18:38,465
We add salt and pepper.
325
00:18:38,508 --> 00:18:40,293
- You're like toasting
it almost, right?
326
00:18:40,336 --> 00:18:42,860
- Yes... the only
time that you can
327
00:18:42,904 --> 00:18:44,514
give flavor to the rice.
328
00:18:44,558 --> 00:18:46,429
After, you give
flavor to the risotto.
329
00:18:46,473 --> 00:18:48,562
We add vegetable stock.
- Vegetable stock. Okay.
330
00:18:48,605 --> 00:18:50,694
- Yes. Onion, carrot, celery.
331
00:18:50,738 --> 00:18:51,782
- Yeah.
332
00:18:51,826 --> 00:18:52,957
The Costardi brothers
333
00:18:53,001 --> 00:18:54,394
celebrate the very best
334
00:18:54,437 --> 00:18:56,483
of Piedmont's local produce.
335
00:18:56,526 --> 00:18:58,485
Their signature dish
is a risotto made
336
00:18:58,528 --> 00:19:01,183
with Lavazza coffee,
a beer reduction,
337
00:19:01,227 --> 00:19:04,099
and grana padano cheese.
338
00:19:04,143 --> 00:19:07,494
- And the risotto we do
now is a tribute to Italy.
339
00:19:07,537 --> 00:19:09,757
And what we want
to do is to bring
340
00:19:09,800 --> 00:19:11,411
four of the most
important regions
341
00:19:11,454 --> 00:19:13,195
of everything in the dish.
342
00:19:13,239 --> 00:19:14,849
- Are you both from this area?
343
00:19:14,892 --> 00:19:16,894
- Yeah. We are
born in Vercelli.
344
00:19:16,938 --> 00:19:20,115
The hotel was built by
our grandparents in 1967.
345
00:19:20,159 --> 00:19:22,813
In 2005, we decided to
open our restaurant.
346
00:19:22,857 --> 00:19:25,425
- Right.
- To try to do something new.
347
00:19:25,468 --> 00:19:27,253
We... our born idea,
348
00:19:27,296 --> 00:19:31,213
the idea to have 22 different
risotto in the menu.
349
00:19:31,257 --> 00:19:32,954
- Christian and
Manuel's restaurant
350
00:19:32,997 --> 00:19:36,349
is a million miles away from
a traditional risotteria,
351
00:19:36,392 --> 00:19:39,787
which usually have only one or
two classic cheese or mushroom
352
00:19:39,830 --> 00:19:41,615
risottos on the menu.
353
00:19:41,658 --> 00:19:44,095
The brothers' inventive
approach has earned them
354
00:19:44,139 --> 00:19:46,489
a Michelin star.
355
00:19:46,533 --> 00:19:48,274
You are experimenting
all the time.
356
00:19:48,317 --> 00:19:51,886
- Yes. We like to
take inspiration
357
00:19:51,929 --> 00:19:53,627
from other penne in our life...
358
00:19:53,670 --> 00:19:55,977
From music, from television,
359
00:19:56,020 --> 00:19:58,153
from cinema, from
art, from everything.
360
00:19:58,197 --> 00:20:01,112
We'll never forget what we
have outside our windows,
361
00:20:01,156 --> 00:20:05,160
what we have around us, and
the rice, and the territory,
362
00:20:05,204 --> 00:20:07,162
and Piedmont is very
important for us.
363
00:20:07,206 --> 00:20:09,295
For this risotto is
grana padano cream.
364
00:20:09,338 --> 00:20:10,818
- Oh, nice.
365
00:20:10,861 --> 00:20:13,995
- And after, we have
the powder of coffee.
366
00:20:14,038 --> 00:20:16,389
This is the coffee that
arrived from Ethiopia.
367
00:20:16,432 --> 00:20:17,912
- Oh, yeah. Ooh, yeah.
368
00:20:17,955 --> 00:20:20,480
- The coffee idea arrived
because I love the coffee.
369
00:20:20,523 --> 00:20:25,267
What we try with each dish
that we produce is to broke
370
00:20:25,311 --> 00:20:26,964
what is in your mind normally.
371
00:20:29,967 --> 00:20:32,361
- Mm-hmm. Mm-hmm.
372
00:20:32,405 --> 00:20:33,512
- Okay, this is unsalted water.
373
00:20:33,536 --> 00:20:34,798
- Unsalted. Okay.
- Yeah.
374
00:20:37,366 --> 00:20:38,889
Music.
375
00:20:38,933 --> 00:20:40,326
- Yes.
376
00:20:40,369 --> 00:20:42,893
- You try?
- Not like that.
377
00:20:42,937 --> 00:20:43,938
- It's not difficult.
378
00:20:46,027 --> 00:20:47,027
- It's not?
379
00:20:49,596 --> 00:20:52,120
No. Go. You do it.
380
00:20:55,341 --> 00:20:57,125
That's so cool.
381
00:20:57,168 --> 00:21:00,128
- These tins are born in
tribute to Andy Warhol.
382
00:21:00,171 --> 00:21:01,216
Yes.
383
00:21:01,260 --> 00:21:02,565
- This is the reduction of beer.
384
00:21:02,609 --> 00:21:04,480
- Just beer?
- We just used the sugar
385
00:21:04,524 --> 00:21:06,439
of the beer.
- Hmm, it's like caramel.
386
00:21:06,482 --> 00:21:08,745
- Yes.
- Yeah.
387
00:21:08,789 --> 00:21:10,312
- Bitter.
- Whoa!
388
00:21:10,356 --> 00:21:13,272
- And when the mix from the
beer, coffee, and cheese
389
00:21:13,315 --> 00:21:15,143
in the mouth, it's
like fresh mushroom.
390
00:21:18,451 --> 00:21:20,322
- Now we add the grana
padano cream on top.
391
00:21:24,021 --> 00:21:27,242
- This is completely
changing everything
392
00:21:27,286 --> 00:21:28,765
I thought about risotto.
393
00:21:28,809 --> 00:21:32,291
- Coffee on top and
beer at the end.
394
00:21:32,334 --> 00:21:34,162
- Kay.
- What kind of spoon you want?
395
00:21:34,205 --> 00:21:35,076
- I'll take that one.
- Okay.
396
00:21:35,119 --> 00:21:36,338
- Yeah. Thank you.
397
00:21:43,345 --> 00:21:45,129
That's a revelation.
398
00:21:45,173 --> 00:21:47,871
That's like 1,000 things...
- Yes.
399
00:21:47,915 --> 00:21:49,220
- In one can.
- Yes.
400
00:21:49,264 --> 00:21:50,526
- Wow.
401
00:21:50,570 --> 00:21:52,528
Also, the way you
cook the risotto...
402
00:21:52,572 --> 00:21:54,269
It's so nice and firm.
403
00:21:54,313 --> 00:21:56,334
- It's very important to
have the flavor of the rice.
404
00:21:56,358 --> 00:21:59,666
You have to bite and
understand what is inside.
405
00:21:59,709 --> 00:22:00,710
- That's unbelievable.
406
00:22:00,754 --> 00:22:01,861
You're not doing it in Milan.
407
00:22:01,885 --> 00:22:02,993
You're not doing it in Turin.
408
00:22:03,017 --> 00:22:04,366
You're not doing it in Florence.
409
00:22:04,410 --> 00:22:06,412
You're doing it here,
where you grew up.
410
00:22:06,455 --> 00:22:07,891
- People say we are crazy.
411
00:22:07,935 --> 00:22:11,678
Not only people outside,
but also our grandma.
412
00:22:11,721 --> 00:22:13,157
- Yeah. She said
you were crazy.
413
00:22:13,201 --> 00:22:14,768
- Yeah, when we begin,
our grandma say:
414
00:22:20,556 --> 00:22:21,992
The brothers' love of rice
415
00:22:22,036 --> 00:22:24,212
also inspires
their dessert menu.
416
00:22:26,910 --> 00:22:31,828
And Manuel's signature dish
is "Rice Field in Winter."
417
00:22:31,872 --> 00:22:34,527
- When I study this dish,
I go in the rice field
418
00:22:34,570 --> 00:22:37,399
for taste the ground,
for smell the ground.
419
00:22:37,443 --> 00:22:38,966
We use chestnut cream.
420
00:22:42,448 --> 00:22:44,188
- What's that?
- It's rice ground.
421
00:22:44,232 --> 00:22:47,366
It's a biscuit of rice
flour and chocolate.
422
00:22:47,409 --> 00:22:49,890
We add some of the crispy rice.
423
00:22:49,933 --> 00:22:51,215
- That one I used to
have for breakfast.
424
00:22:51,239 --> 00:22:52,240
- Yes.
- I was a kid...
425
00:22:52,283 --> 00:22:54,024
Not as good as that, but yeah.
426
00:22:54,068 --> 00:22:58,333
- And the wintertime for us is
one of the most poetic moment
427
00:22:58,377 --> 00:23:00,683
of the year.
- This is cool.
428
00:23:00,727 --> 00:23:02,816
- You have to be a little bit...
- Crazy.
429
00:23:02,859 --> 00:23:04,295
Yes.
430
00:23:04,339 --> 00:23:05,775
- Put some liquid nitrogen.
431
00:23:10,084 --> 00:23:11,284
- So what did he put in there?
432
00:23:12,956 --> 00:23:14,156
- And then you're freezing it?
433
00:23:16,525 --> 00:23:18,701
- Like snow. That's cool.
434
00:23:18,745 --> 00:23:20,921
So now it's snowing.
435
00:23:20,964 --> 00:23:22,052
That's genius.
436
00:23:22,096 --> 00:23:23,663
- A morning in Vercelli.
437
00:23:23,706 --> 00:23:24,968
Yeah, yeah.
438
00:23:25,012 --> 00:23:26,230
I love it.
439
00:23:26,274 --> 00:23:27,971
You eat it with this?
- Yeah.
440
00:23:34,630 --> 00:23:35,762
- That's great.
441
00:23:35,805 --> 00:23:37,503
It's not super-sweet.
442
00:23:37,546 --> 00:23:40,201
I wanna have it in a cone.
443
00:23:40,244 --> 00:23:43,291
- Thank you.
- God damn it.
444
00:23:43,334 --> 00:23:47,338
Guys, how come I
never met you before?
445
00:23:50,994 --> 00:23:54,433
My whole life, wasted.
446
00:24:04,312 --> 00:24:05,966
- If you visit Piedmont,
447
00:24:06,009 --> 00:24:08,316
there's something that grows
here that's so special,
448
00:24:08,359 --> 00:24:11,493
the white truffle.
449
00:24:11,537 --> 00:24:13,669
It's so coveted that
it's sold on the market
450
00:24:13,713 --> 00:24:16,150
and at charity auctions
for huge sums of money.
451
00:24:20,154 --> 00:24:22,461
- This season's
largest white truffles
452
00:24:22,504 --> 00:24:25,202
are selling to bidders from
Italy and around the world.
453
00:24:28,554 --> 00:24:30,338
- The auctioneer is
my friend from Turin,
454
00:24:30,381 --> 00:24:32,471
food writer Paolo Vizzari.
455
00:24:32,514 --> 00:24:34,255
He's got his work
cut out for him.
456
00:24:34,298 --> 00:24:37,171
Bids for the delicate fungi
come in thick and fast.
457
00:24:46,876 --> 00:24:48,748
- Luckily, the
buyer isn't put off.
458
00:24:48,791 --> 00:24:50,793
The white truffle's value
459
00:24:50,837 --> 00:24:52,795
seems to be pretty
much indestructible.
460
00:25:00,977 --> 00:25:03,676
A truffle
weighing close to two pounds,
461
00:25:03,719 --> 00:25:06,330
pulling in bidders from
Moscow and Hong Kong.
462
00:25:19,779 --> 00:25:22,564
- That's $114,000.
463
00:25:22,608 --> 00:25:23,826
When it comes to price,
464
00:25:23,870 --> 00:25:25,306
white truffles from Piedmont
465
00:25:25,349 --> 00:25:27,438
are in a league of their own.
466
00:25:27,482 --> 00:25:28,570
Nice to see you again.
467
00:25:28,614 --> 00:25:30,137
Nice to see you again.
468
00:25:30,180 --> 00:25:33,053
Would any other truffle
from any other part of Italy
469
00:25:33,096 --> 00:25:35,272
garner that much...
- No.
470
00:25:35,316 --> 00:25:36,728
- Attention, and would
they get that much money?
471
00:25:36,752 --> 00:25:38,232
- I don't think so.
- No.
472
00:25:38,275 --> 00:25:39,949
- In the end, it's all about
the nature around here.
473
00:25:39,973 --> 00:25:41,211
- Yeah. I couldn't
believe it, though,
474
00:25:41,235 --> 00:25:42,889
when the guy
dropped the truffle.
475
00:25:42,932 --> 00:25:44,586
That was
a chilling moment.
476
00:25:44,630 --> 00:25:46,477
- No, there was one little
piece left on the floor.
477
00:25:46,501 --> 00:25:47,633
I saw it.
- Did you pick it?
478
00:25:47,676 --> 00:25:48,871
- No, no. I was
too embarrassed.
479
00:25:48,895 --> 00:25:50,307
Because
it's probably like
480
00:25:50,331 --> 00:25:51,419
20 grams.
- Yeah, I know!
481
00:25:51,462 --> 00:25:53,595
There was like...
yeah.
482
00:25:57,991 --> 00:26:00,863
- While the more common
black truffle can be farmed,
483
00:26:00,907 --> 00:26:03,649
white truffles grow
only in the wild.
484
00:26:03,692 --> 00:26:06,173
So auction houses rely
on truffle hunters
485
00:26:06,216 --> 00:26:09,306
to source the white gold in
the forests of the Langhe,
486
00:26:09,350 --> 00:26:13,876
an area of rolling hills
40 miles south of Turin.
487
00:26:13,920 --> 00:26:15,704
Here, conditions are perfect.
488
00:26:15,748 --> 00:26:17,314
Warm air from the south
489
00:26:17,358 --> 00:26:19,621
pushes back cold
currents from the Alps,
490
00:26:19,665 --> 00:26:23,190
and summer rainfall feeds
the mineral-rich soil.
491
00:26:23,233 --> 00:26:24,626
White truffles sell
492
00:26:24,670 --> 00:26:25,951
for extraordinary
amounts of money
493
00:26:25,975 --> 00:26:27,760
because they're so hard to find,
494
00:26:27,803 --> 00:26:30,284
even if you know
what you're doing.
495
00:26:30,327 --> 00:26:33,113
I'm going to meet
a truffle hunter,
496
00:26:33,156 --> 00:26:34,593
and we're gonna catch a big one.
497
00:26:36,551 --> 00:26:39,554
The competition between
truffle hunters is intense,
498
00:26:39,598 --> 00:26:42,426
and they're obsessed with
guarding their secrets.
499
00:26:42,470 --> 00:26:44,515
But I'm meeting someone
who's agreed to show me some
500
00:26:44,559 --> 00:26:46,430
of what he knows.
501
00:26:46,474 --> 00:26:47,997
This is gonna be interesting.
502
00:26:50,391 --> 00:26:52,915
Okay. Here we go.
503
00:26:54,003 --> 00:26:55,048
- Stanley.
504
00:26:58,704 --> 00:27:03,143
- Igor Bianchi is known as
the king of truffle hunters.
505
00:27:03,186 --> 00:27:04,186
Hi.
506
00:27:06,668 --> 00:27:09,149
- They're border collie.
- Border collie.
507
00:27:09,192 --> 00:27:11,804
Well, shall we?
508
00:27:11,847 --> 00:27:14,981
Let's go.
509
00:27:15,024 --> 00:27:16,722
So beautiful.
510
00:27:37,525 --> 00:27:38,874
- Lola and Susy
have been trained
511
00:27:38,918 --> 00:27:40,267
since they were puppies
512
00:27:40,310 --> 00:27:42,225
to detect the
truffles' unique scent.
513
00:27:53,802 --> 00:27:54,802
Okay.
514
00:28:06,510 --> 00:28:08,643
- Igor once found
a monster truffle
515
00:28:08,687 --> 00:28:10,732
weighing just over two pounds.
516
00:28:10,776 --> 00:28:12,647
So you never know what
we might find today.
517
00:28:50,511 --> 00:28:52,774
Hey, Lola! Hey!
518
00:29:18,626 --> 00:29:20,802
- For all of Igor's expertise,
519
00:29:20,846 --> 00:29:23,370
the last few years have been
tough for truffle hunters.
520
00:29:23,413 --> 00:29:26,025
Climate change has meant
less summer rainfall.
521
00:29:26,068 --> 00:29:27,722
Hence, fewer truffles.
522
00:29:36,557 --> 00:29:39,821
- It seems that the truffles
are being shy today.
523
00:29:41,736 --> 00:29:43,607
- With truffles harder to find,
524
00:29:43,651 --> 00:29:47,046
they're becoming more
precious than ever.
525
00:29:47,089 --> 00:29:50,571
Luckily for me, Igor did
find a truffle yesterday,
526
00:29:50,614 --> 00:29:52,660
and he wants to cook up
a classic truffle dish
527
00:29:52,703 --> 00:29:54,662
in his garage.
528
00:29:54,705 --> 00:29:55,705
Oh, my God.
529
00:30:01,321 --> 00:30:03,671
- Nothing else in the
world is like that.
530
00:30:05,847 --> 00:30:08,110
Simple recipes are best
when it comes to showing off
531
00:30:08,154 --> 00:30:09,677
the truffle's flavor.
532
00:30:09,720 --> 00:30:12,332
So Igor's cooking me
eggs fried in butter,
533
00:30:12,375 --> 00:30:14,073
topped with shaved truffle.
534
00:30:19,643 --> 00:30:22,559
- Ah... I see. Mmm.
535
00:30:24,083 --> 00:30:26,433
- Okay, now... right.
Now it has to...
536
00:31:09,041 --> 00:31:12,087
Despite all the razzmatazz
and velvet cushions,
537
00:31:12,131 --> 00:31:14,220
when it comes down
to it, white truffles
538
00:31:14,263 --> 00:31:16,048
are really a simple,
earthy pleasure
539
00:31:16,091 --> 00:31:17,919
straight from Mother Nature.
540
00:31:17,963 --> 00:31:18,920
- Eh?
- Mmm.
541
00:31:24,273 --> 00:31:25,273
Grazie.
542
00:31:40,420 --> 00:31:42,596
- In the Langhe,
I'm on the trail
543
00:31:42,639 --> 00:31:45,729
of another coveted treat
that comes from this land
544
00:31:45,773 --> 00:31:46,905
of coveted treats.
545
00:31:48,515 --> 00:31:49,559
It's so beautiful.
546
00:31:52,040 --> 00:31:55,174
Due to a unique combination
of geography and climate,
547
00:31:55,217 --> 00:31:58,177
these hills are home not
only to the white truffle,
548
00:31:58,220 --> 00:32:01,397
but also one of Italy's
most celebrated red wines.
549
00:32:03,269 --> 00:32:05,836
Giulia Negri is the first
person in her family
550
00:32:05,880 --> 00:32:08,274
to make Barolo from
vines on this estate.
551
00:32:11,233 --> 00:32:13,322
So you inherited this place?
552
00:32:13,366 --> 00:32:14,628
- Yes.
- From your family?
553
00:32:14,671 --> 00:32:16,760
- They were a big family
of engineer from Turina.
554
00:32:16,804 --> 00:32:19,154
- Uh-huh.
- And they bought it in 1870...
555
00:32:24,290 --> 00:32:25,290
- Yeah.
556
00:32:32,037 --> 00:32:33,908
- These slopes get
a lot of sun...
557
00:32:33,952 --> 00:32:35,388
Although, not today...
558
00:32:35,431 --> 00:32:37,520
Making them perfect
for growing Nebbiolo,
559
00:32:37,564 --> 00:32:39,783
a thin-skinned grape
that's hard to cultivate
560
00:32:39,827 --> 00:32:41,960
outside this region.
561
00:32:42,003 --> 00:32:45,093
It's the only grape that
can be used to make Barolo.
562
00:32:45,137 --> 00:32:48,183
So you have how
many hectares of...
563
00:32:48,227 --> 00:32:51,056
- We have six hectare
and a half of vineyard,
564
00:32:51,099 --> 00:32:54,276
so they are all around here
the house, and 12 forests.
565
00:32:54,320 --> 00:32:57,192
It's among the last forests
in all the Barolo area.
566
00:32:57,236 --> 00:32:58,498
- Oh, really?
- And this is why
567
00:32:58,541 --> 00:33:01,240
we're really
protecting it a lot.
568
00:33:01,283 --> 00:33:03,261
- Whereas a lot of winemakers
might get rid of that forest
569
00:33:03,285 --> 00:33:04,852
and plant more...
- Vines?
570
00:33:04,895 --> 00:33:06,027
Exactly.
- Yep.
571
00:33:08,116 --> 00:33:12,207
Barolo produced exclusively in
this tiny corner of the Langhe
572
00:33:12,251 --> 00:33:14,862
is one of Italy's finest
and most expensive wines.
573
00:33:16,995 --> 00:33:19,214
"Nebbia" is Italian for "fog."
574
00:33:19,258 --> 00:33:21,347
And when the fogs of fall come,
575
00:33:21,390 --> 00:33:23,697
that's when the
Nebbiolo is harvested.
576
00:33:23,740 --> 00:33:25,438
So I'm here at the perfect time
577
00:33:25,481 --> 00:33:27,657
to see how Giulia
transforms these grapes.
578
00:33:30,312 --> 00:33:32,053
Come in.
579
00:33:35,448 --> 00:33:37,624
So here, you can
smell it, definitely.
580
00:33:37,667 --> 00:33:39,017
- I definitely smell it.
581
00:33:39,060 --> 00:33:41,149
- We finished the
harvest two weeks ago.
582
00:33:41,193 --> 00:33:42,716
- Mm-hmm.
583
00:33:42,759 --> 00:33:44,607
- We are truly in the
peak of the fermentations,
584
00:33:44,631 --> 00:33:46,546
and if you listen...
585
00:33:49,244 --> 00:33:51,072
Oh, yeah! Both: It's alive.
586
00:33:51,116 --> 00:33:54,075
It's alive!
587
00:33:54,119 --> 00:33:57,600
- Wow.
- Our job is to keep the cap
588
00:33:57,644 --> 00:33:59,689
always wet during
the fermentation
589
00:33:59,733 --> 00:34:02,736
because otherwise, it
becomes like vinegar.
590
00:34:02,779 --> 00:34:05,565
- Oh, vinegar?
- Yeah.
591
00:34:05,608 --> 00:34:07,393
- You're putting wine...
- We are pumping it
592
00:34:07,436 --> 00:34:09,047
from the lower parts.
593
00:34:09,090 --> 00:34:10,372
- Oh, you're pumping it from
the bottom into the top.
594
00:34:10,396 --> 00:34:11,556
- Exactly.
- Oh, I see, I see.
595
00:34:13,399 --> 00:34:14,835
I'd like to have
this in my kitchen.
596
00:34:18,056 --> 00:34:21,015
- Did you go and study
wine-making, or you just...
597
00:34:21,059 --> 00:34:22,862
- I never studied wine-making.
- Try it yourself?
598
00:34:22,886 --> 00:34:26,673
- Not knowing nothing
about it, uh, made me learn
599
00:34:26,716 --> 00:34:28,979
really faster.
- Yeah.
600
00:34:29,023 --> 00:34:30,938
- Wine is more...
Is like cooking.
601
00:34:30,981 --> 00:34:31,981
- Yeah.
602
00:34:34,811 --> 00:34:36,204
It's the same.
603
00:34:36,248 --> 00:34:37,597
- It's more really...
604
00:34:39,164 --> 00:34:41,296
- You feel it.
- I don't know how to say.
605
00:34:41,340 --> 00:34:43,211
- Now for the best
part of the process.
606
00:34:43,255 --> 00:34:45,083
For me, at least.
607
00:34:45,126 --> 00:34:46,823
- Now it is a Barolo
that is very young.
608
00:34:46,867 --> 00:34:49,043
It will be a 2019.
609
00:34:49,087 --> 00:34:52,133
It will stays two
year here. So, easy.
610
00:34:52,177 --> 00:34:54,483
- Right.
- And the half of these aging.
611
00:35:01,403 --> 00:35:03,144
- I'm not spitting that out.
612
00:35:03,188 --> 00:35:04,493
It's delicious.
613
00:35:04,537 --> 00:35:05,644
- Mm.
- But you can tell it just
614
00:35:05,668 --> 00:35:07,322
needs more time.
615
00:35:07,366 --> 00:35:08,758
- Definitely.
- Yeah.
616
00:35:08,802 --> 00:35:09,933
How old are you?
617
00:35:09,977 --> 00:35:11,674
- 30. Last week.
618
00:35:11,718 --> 00:35:12,718
- That's incredible.
619
00:35:14,677 --> 00:35:16,897
One of the region's
youngest vintners,
620
00:35:16,940 --> 00:35:19,421
Giulia's instinctive
feel for the grapes,
621
00:35:19,465 --> 00:35:21,989
plus her meticulous
observation of the process,
622
00:35:22,032 --> 00:35:23,469
makes her wine outstanding.
623
00:35:25,645 --> 00:35:27,342
- So we will open
another Barolo...
624
00:35:27,386 --> 00:35:28,996
- Okay.
- But the last vintage,
625
00:35:29,039 --> 00:35:30,389
which is the 2017.
626
00:35:30,432 --> 00:35:32,042
Cheers.
627
00:35:32,086 --> 00:35:33,281
- Welcome, Stanley.
- Thank you very much.
628
00:35:33,305 --> 00:35:34,305
Thank you.
629
00:35:36,656 --> 00:35:39,006
Mmm, that's really nice.
- Mm.
630
00:35:39,049 --> 00:35:40,312
- That's great.
631
00:35:40,355 --> 00:35:42,357
It is distinctly different.
- Yes.
632
00:35:42,401 --> 00:35:45,360
- Than the 2019, which
is still in the...
633
00:35:45,404 --> 00:35:47,232
- Barrel.
- In the barrel.
634
00:35:47,275 --> 00:35:51,192
The tannins are more prominent.
635
00:35:51,236 --> 00:35:54,500
And yeah, at the same
time, it's sort of lighter
636
00:35:54,543 --> 00:35:57,024
and more delicate.
- Mm-hmm.
637
00:35:57,067 --> 00:35:59,200
- Si, it's more balanced, no?
- Literally,
638
00:35:59,244 --> 00:36:00,419
it was off-balance.
639
00:36:00,462 --> 00:36:01,942
It's going back and forth.
640
00:36:01,985 --> 00:36:04,379
That's the longest description
of any glass of wine
641
00:36:04,423 --> 00:36:05,835
that anyone's ever made...
642
00:36:05,859 --> 00:36:08,035
- And I'm really
sorry. I am sorry.
643
00:36:08,078 --> 00:36:09,776
I could say that...
What, you know...
644
00:36:09,819 --> 00:36:11,623
It
has notes of strawberry.
645
00:36:11,647 --> 00:36:12,431
But I won't say that,
646
00:36:12,474 --> 00:36:14,084
'cause it doesn't.
647
00:36:14,128 --> 00:36:16,217
I'll just say it's pretty good,
648
00:36:16,261 --> 00:36:20,265
and it's getting better.
649
00:36:20,308 --> 00:36:21,788
- Yep.
- As it's opening...
650
00:36:21,831 --> 00:36:24,617
- Open up, but it's incredible
how really Barolo...
651
00:36:24,660 --> 00:36:26,314
You put it in a glass,
and in ten minutes,
652
00:36:26,358 --> 00:36:28,229
it's changed completely.
- Totally.
653
00:36:28,273 --> 00:36:30,666
- So you need the truffle
to pair it, and then...
654
00:36:30,710 --> 00:36:32,320
- I know. Well, let's
go look for one.
655
00:36:48,293 --> 00:36:50,904
- I cannot resist
the call of the Alps,
656
00:36:50,947 --> 00:36:52,993
which dominate the skyline
everywhere in Piedmont.
657
00:36:55,604 --> 00:36:57,432
Finally going up in the world,
658
00:36:57,476 --> 00:37:00,479
I've ascended to Italy's
smallest and highest region:
659
00:37:00,522 --> 00:37:03,264
Valle D'Aosta.
660
00:37:03,308 --> 00:37:05,788
Nestled in the Alps, its
cuisine is influenced
661
00:37:05,832 --> 00:37:07,877
by close neighbors
France and Switzerland.
662
00:37:09,749 --> 00:37:11,490
As usual, I'm famished,
663
00:37:11,533 --> 00:37:13,274
and there's a little
restaurant at the foot
664
00:37:13,318 --> 00:37:16,234
of the Matterhorn
dedicated to Alpine food:
665
00:37:16,277 --> 00:37:17,409
Alpage.
666
00:37:21,978 --> 00:37:23,042
- Hello, nice to meet you.
- Hello.
667
00:37:23,066 --> 00:37:25,155
Welcome, Stanley.
- Thank you.
668
00:37:25,199 --> 00:37:27,984
Thanks... thanks for having me.
669
00:37:28,028 --> 00:37:31,727
Cecilia Lazzarotto, a local
teacher and sommelier,
670
00:37:31,771 --> 00:37:34,904
knows a thing or two about the
best this region has to offer.
671
00:37:34,948 --> 00:37:37,298
Are we gonna eat?
- Yes, we can go outside,
672
00:37:37,342 --> 00:37:38,256
if you want.
- Let's go outside.
673
00:37:38,299 --> 00:37:39,561
- Yeah.
- Okay.
674
00:37:42,347 --> 00:37:44,914
- With views like these,
you have to eat outside.
675
00:37:47,439 --> 00:37:49,658
What do we have?
676
00:37:51,747 --> 00:37:53,183
- This is, um...
- Jambon.
677
00:37:53,227 --> 00:37:54,576
- Oh, you're speaking French.
678
00:37:54,620 --> 00:37:55,534
All right, go ahead.
679
00:37:57,884 --> 00:37:59,973
This is one is Lard d'Arnad.
680
00:38:00,016 --> 00:38:02,323
Yeah, lardo.
681
00:38:10,331 --> 00:38:11,680
- Thank you. Very good.
- Grazie.
682
00:38:11,724 --> 00:38:13,769
- Look at that... How
beautiful that is.
683
00:38:18,731 --> 00:38:21,995
So this region, there
are basically...
684
00:38:22,038 --> 00:38:23,078
three different languages.
685
00:38:27,174 --> 00:38:30,830
But I think most of the
population of our region
686
00:38:30,873 --> 00:38:33,920
is consider themselves Italian.
- Italian.
687
00:38:33,963 --> 00:38:36,923
- It's strange because we
never seeing the other side
688
00:38:36,966 --> 00:38:38,228
of the mountain.
689
00:38:38,272 --> 00:38:41,275
But we know who are
in the other side.
690
00:38:44,670 --> 00:38:46,367
- And if there's one dish
691
00:38:46,411 --> 00:38:48,848
that Valle D'Aosta's close
neighbors are famous for...
692
00:38:48,891 --> 00:38:52,112
- Oh! Grazie.
- It's fondue.
693
00:38:52,155 --> 00:38:53,461
On this side of the mountains,
694
00:38:53,505 --> 00:38:56,421
it's called "fonduta,"
695
00:38:56,464 --> 00:38:58,384
and over here, they make
it a little differently.
696
00:39:03,253 --> 00:39:04,994
- Yeah.
- The difference between,
697
00:39:05,038 --> 00:39:07,214
for example, Switzerland
and France...
698
00:39:07,257 --> 00:39:09,564
They have fonduta with
different cheese...
699
00:39:09,608 --> 00:39:11,653
- What do they use?
- Gruyère?
700
00:39:11,697 --> 00:39:14,090
- Gruyère?
- Maybe a bit of frachet.
701
00:39:24,013 --> 00:39:27,321
- Italian fontina cheese
from cows fed on sweet grass
702
00:39:27,365 --> 00:39:30,542
high in these mountains make
the fonduta so luscious,
703
00:39:30,585 --> 00:39:32,108
it doesn't need the
white wine they add
704
00:39:32,152 --> 00:39:33,371
in France or Switzerland.
705
00:39:34,850 --> 00:39:36,983
Mmm. Oh, my God,
that is so good.
706
00:39:39,594 --> 00:39:40,594
- That is incredible.
707
00:39:50,997 --> 00:39:52,302
- So delicious.
708
00:39:54,392 --> 00:39:56,785
All these dishes are
packed with calories...
709
00:39:56,829 --> 00:39:59,222
Perfect for a day
high in the mountains,
710
00:39:59,266 --> 00:40:01,442
and I couldn't leave without
going to the top of one.
711
00:40:07,666 --> 00:40:09,668
I've actually skied here before,
712
00:40:09,711 --> 00:40:11,887
and the view from the
peak is spectacular.
713
00:40:11,931 --> 00:40:14,542
I can't wait to see it again.
714
00:40:14,586 --> 00:40:16,457
And then, as if on cue...
715
00:40:19,199 --> 00:40:22,768
Look at... we're just
enveloped in cloud.
716
00:40:22,811 --> 00:40:25,553
Here we go right into it.
717
00:40:25,597 --> 00:40:27,009
Well, that was a trip
for nothing, right?
718
00:40:31,124 --> 00:40:33,343
- We are on the border.
719
00:40:33,387 --> 00:40:36,085
So we have to cross.
- Okay, ready?
720
00:40:36,129 --> 00:40:37,347
- Yeah.
721
00:40:37,391 --> 00:40:38,499
You are ready?
- Ciao, Italia.
722
00:40:38,523 --> 00:40:40,394
- Okay. Wow, we
are in Switzerland.
723
00:40:40,438 --> 00:40:41,830
- We're in Switzerland.
724
00:40:41,874 --> 00:40:44,572
Oh, wait, I forgot something.
725
00:40:44,616 --> 00:40:46,016
- Is that where we're going?
- Yeah.
726
00:40:46,052 --> 00:40:48,837
- Rifugio. Rifugio.
- Rifugio.
727
00:40:48,881 --> 00:40:51,318
- What better way to end
my journey to the Alps
728
00:40:51,361 --> 00:40:53,451
than with a glass
of the local liquor?
729
00:40:58,760 --> 00:41:01,154
Génépi is a real winter warmer.
730
00:41:01,197 --> 00:41:03,548
It's made with wormwood
and Alpine plants
731
00:41:03,591 --> 00:41:05,985
celebrated for its
healing properties.
732
00:41:06,028 --> 00:41:07,179
- Cheers.
- Thank you so much.
733
00:41:07,203 --> 00:41:08,204
- Thank you to you.
734
00:41:12,165 --> 00:41:13,383
It's fantastic.
- Whoa!
735
00:41:13,427 --> 00:41:16,082
- From herbs... From,
uh, from mountains...
736
00:41:16,125 --> 00:41:17,344
- Oof!
- Fantastic, no?
737
00:41:17,387 --> 00:41:18,387
- Yes!
738
00:41:21,566 --> 00:41:24,525
- The génépi has brightened
things up considerably,
739
00:41:24,569 --> 00:41:26,788
inside and out.
740
00:41:26,832 --> 00:41:28,157
Oh, look. Now we
can really see it.
741
00:41:28,181 --> 00:41:29,182
- Yeah!
742
00:41:37,538 --> 00:41:38,538
- Yeah.
743
00:41:44,110 --> 00:41:46,242
It's difficult to
describe sometimes, huh?
744
00:41:46,286 --> 00:41:48,636
I see them and I shut up
745
00:41:48,680 --> 00:41:51,160
because it's impossible
to talk about.
746
00:41:51,204 --> 00:41:52,292
- Beautiful.
747
00:41:54,903 --> 00:41:57,558
Stretched out below
is Valle D'Aosta
748
00:41:57,602 --> 00:41:59,386
and Piedmont beyond,
749
00:41:59,429 --> 00:42:01,649
where the Italian
nation was born...
750
00:42:01,693 --> 00:42:03,738
A region without which
751
00:42:03,782 --> 00:42:06,393
I wouldn't be searching
for Italy at all.
55082
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