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1
00:00:07,659 --> 00:00:09,531
- This is a really nice boat.
2
00:00:14,188 --> 00:00:16,059
It's the fifth century.
3
00:00:16,103 --> 00:00:19,410
You're an urban planner
pitching an idea.
4
00:00:19,454 --> 00:00:23,545
A city in the sea, you
say, built on stilts,
5
00:00:23,588 --> 00:00:25,895
canals instead of streets.
6
00:00:25,938 --> 00:00:28,637
You can only get there by boat.
7
00:00:28,680 --> 00:00:31,901
And incredibly, they built it.
8
00:00:31,944 --> 00:00:33,685
Over a millennium or two,
9
00:00:33,729 --> 00:00:37,167
Venice becomes the center
of a world trading empire...
10
00:00:37,211 --> 00:00:41,954
Silks, spices, ideas,
and money, lots of it.
11
00:00:43,217 --> 00:00:46,089
The Venetians live
between earth and water.
12
00:00:46,133 --> 00:00:51,138
It shaped their character...
Salty, wise, and ingenious.
13
00:00:51,181 --> 00:00:53,183
I've never seen
anyone do that before.
14
00:00:55,142 --> 00:00:56,969
I'm Stanley Tucci.
15
00:00:57,013 --> 00:00:59,252
I'm Italian on both sides,
and I'm traveling across Italy
16
00:00:59,276 --> 00:01:00,625
to discover how the food
17
00:01:00,669 --> 00:01:03,324
in each of this
country's 20 regions
18
00:01:03,367 --> 00:01:06,109
is as unique as the
people and their past.
19
00:01:06,153 --> 00:01:07,545
May I? Thank you.
20
00:01:07,589 --> 00:01:08,590
How are you?
21
00:01:08,633 --> 00:01:09,852
- Good.
- Good.
22
00:01:09,895 --> 00:01:11,288
Surrounded by wetlands...
23
00:01:12,681 --> 00:01:14,770
These people are hunters...
24
00:01:14,813 --> 00:01:15,771
You're a great shot.
25
00:01:15,814 --> 00:01:17,686
And gatherers.
26
00:01:17,729 --> 00:01:18,817
It's perfectly balanced.
27
00:01:18,861 --> 00:01:20,993
Wow. Wow!
28
00:01:21,037 --> 00:01:23,779
The sea brought the outside
world to the Venetians
29
00:01:23,822 --> 00:01:25,476
and fed their appetites.
30
00:01:25,520 --> 00:01:26,695
Mmm!
31
00:01:26,738 --> 00:01:29,437
So many different
cultures right in a bowl.
32
00:01:44,408 --> 00:01:46,410
Venice is the capital
of the Veneto region.
33
00:01:46,454 --> 00:01:49,457
It's flat, fertile, and damp...
34
00:01:49,500 --> 00:01:51,676
Sheltered in the
west by the Dolomites
35
00:01:51,720 --> 00:01:54,897
and in the east warmed
by the Adriatic Sea.
36
00:01:56,725 --> 00:02:01,338
117 islands sit in this
salty bay, the lagoon.
37
00:02:01,382 --> 00:02:03,297
Venice is the largest.
38
00:02:03,340 --> 00:02:05,037
No food is grown here.
39
00:02:05,081 --> 00:02:07,214
It all comes in
from the outside.
40
00:02:09,651 --> 00:02:11,479
I want to eat what Venetians eat
41
00:02:11,522 --> 00:02:14,482
in the places they
go to eat it in.
42
00:02:14,525 --> 00:02:16,527
A friend from here
says I can do it
43
00:02:16,571 --> 00:02:18,964
just two minutes from
the Rialto Bridge.
44
00:02:19,008 --> 00:02:20,705
Let's go.
45
00:02:20,749 --> 00:02:25,275
My target is a wine
bar, open for breakfast.
46
00:02:25,319 --> 00:02:28,409
Okay, first, north
down the Riva del Vin,
47
00:02:28,452 --> 00:02:30,367
once full of wine warehouses...
48
00:02:30,411 --> 00:02:32,891
Great priorities, the Venetians.
49
00:02:32,935 --> 00:02:36,025
Take a right, and you're
in a maze of alleyways.
50
00:02:38,245 --> 00:02:39,855
It'd be easy to lose the way,
51
00:02:39,898 --> 00:02:42,684
but the Rialto area is
the fish market district.
52
00:02:42,727 --> 00:02:44,947
You just have to
follow your nose.
53
00:02:47,254 --> 00:02:48,690
I could be hallucinating,
54
00:02:48,733 --> 00:02:51,214
but would my mouth be watering?
55
00:02:54,609 --> 00:02:57,133
- Hey.
56
00:02:57,177 --> 00:02:59,135
- Buongiorno.
57
00:02:59,179 --> 00:03:02,007
I found it.
58
00:03:02,051 --> 00:03:04,575
It was 2 hours and 45 minutes.
59
00:03:07,230 --> 00:03:08,405
Buongiorno.
60
00:03:22,332 --> 00:03:25,248
All'Arco is abacaro, a
neighborhood watering hole.
61
00:03:25,292 --> 00:03:27,424
This one is run by Matteo Pinto
62
00:03:27,468 --> 00:03:29,252
and has been in
the family forever.
63
00:03:31,907 --> 00:03:37,217
And these are cicchetti, a
traditional Venetian snack.
64
00:03:41,917 --> 00:03:43,397
It's only 8:30,
65
00:03:43,440 --> 00:03:46,356
but a Venetian breakfast
is eaten standing up,
66
00:03:46,400 --> 00:03:48,184
washed down with a glass of wine
67
00:03:48,228 --> 00:03:50,708
known as anombra, or shadow.
68
00:03:55,191 --> 00:03:56,366
Ah.
69
00:03:58,412 --> 00:04:00,283
Si.
70
00:04:00,327 --> 00:04:03,330
This is fast food lagoon-style.
71
00:04:03,373 --> 00:04:05,767
The wordcicchetti
means "a nothing."
72
00:04:05,810 --> 00:04:09,161
Ironic, because it's
really something.
73
00:04:12,687 --> 00:04:13,687
Yeah?
74
00:04:16,430 --> 00:04:19,302
Oh, my God.
75
00:04:20,738 --> 00:04:22,479
I love it.
76
00:04:22,523 --> 00:04:24,699
I'm coming over here
so I can see it.
77
00:04:24,742 --> 00:04:28,833
Look... look at
that. Oh, my God.
78
00:04:37,973 --> 00:04:39,540
Okay.
79
00:04:39,583 --> 00:04:43,805
You got some... oh, my
God. That is so good.
80
00:04:43,848 --> 00:04:46,373
The combination of
flavors is incredible.
81
00:04:46,416 --> 00:04:49,593
You have orange,
truffle, dill, radicchio.
82
00:04:49,637 --> 00:04:51,769
You have... Come?
- Stracciatella.
83
00:04:51,813 --> 00:04:55,207
- Stracciatella, which
is... It's cheese,
84
00:04:55,251 --> 00:04:57,558
and you have that
incredible cross
85
00:04:57,601 --> 00:05:00,735
between a scampi
and a langoustine.
86
00:05:09,396 --> 00:05:11,398
- You tasting? It's good?
- It is so good!
87
00:05:11,441 --> 00:05:13,748
- Mission completed.
- That's incredible.
88
00:05:21,408 --> 00:05:23,453
The Venetians
invented cicchetti,
89
00:05:23,497 --> 00:05:26,413
perhaps because merchants
could eat them standing up
90
00:05:26,456 --> 00:05:28,284
and haggle over a glass of wine.
91
00:05:28,328 --> 00:05:30,155
If we want to talk
about a Michelin star,
92
00:05:30,199 --> 00:05:32,549
this should have
a Michelin star.
93
00:05:38,425 --> 00:05:39,904
There's a local saying...
94
00:05:39,948 --> 00:05:41,776
"If you want to know
the best place to eat,
95
00:05:41,819 --> 00:05:43,168
ask a gondolier."
96
00:05:43,212 --> 00:05:45,562
Luckily, there are
around 400 of them.
97
00:05:45,606 --> 00:05:49,436
This is Tobia Patias.
98
00:05:49,479 --> 00:05:52,395
He's invited me to lunch at
a popular boatman's hangout
99
00:05:52,439 --> 00:05:54,615
just off the Grand Canal.
100
00:05:54,658 --> 00:05:58,706
Ai 4 Feri Storti is
cicchetti heaven, he says,
101
00:05:58,749 --> 00:06:01,404
though gondola
parking is limited.
102
00:06:01,448 --> 00:06:04,625
So cheers.
- Cheers.
103
00:06:04,668 --> 00:06:07,105
Oh, my God.
104
00:06:07,149 --> 00:06:08,890
Grazie.
105
00:06:10,500 --> 00:06:12,502
- How about that?
106
00:06:14,330 --> 00:06:17,202
More or less.
107
00:06:17,246 --> 00:06:18,421
- That is dried tomato.
108
00:06:34,568 --> 00:06:36,091
- I'll try it. Okay.
109
00:06:40,661 --> 00:06:43,968
Mmm. That's really good.
110
00:06:44,012 --> 00:06:46,318
Grazie.
111
00:06:46,362 --> 00:06:50,975
- So gondoliers are
eating cicchetti
112
00:06:51,019 --> 00:06:52,039
sort of throughout the day.
113
00:06:52,063 --> 00:06:53,195
It just keeps you...
114
00:06:53,238 --> 00:06:55,023
In shape.
115
00:06:55,066 --> 00:06:57,547
Rounded shape.
116
00:06:59,114 --> 00:07:00,637
- Sarde in saor.
117
00:07:00,681 --> 00:07:02,726
That's one of the
most typical cicchetti
118
00:07:02,770 --> 00:07:05,599
and dishes that
we have in Venice
119
00:07:05,642 --> 00:07:08,906
and comes from our
great-grandparents.
120
00:07:08,950 --> 00:07:10,908
They were using this as food
121
00:07:10,952 --> 00:07:13,607
when they were going out
for fishing in the lagoon
122
00:07:13,650 --> 00:07:15,478
and were staying out 10, 15 days
123
00:07:15,522 --> 00:07:17,088
before they were
going back home.
124
00:07:17,132 --> 00:07:19,395
- Oh, really?
- Yeah.
125
00:07:21,528 --> 00:07:22,659
- Right.
126
00:07:24,618 --> 00:07:27,055
- And I really do love it.
127
00:07:27,098 --> 00:07:29,536
This simple dish is
a Venetian classic.
128
00:07:29,579 --> 00:07:34,018
Another is baccala mantecato,
the king of cicchetti.
129
00:07:34,062 --> 00:07:35,629
It's made with a different fish
130
00:07:35,672 --> 00:07:38,588
from a cold ocean far away.
131
00:07:38,632 --> 00:07:41,548
Preserved by breezes
on the Norwegian coast,
132
00:07:41,591 --> 00:07:44,115
these cod are
destined for Venice.
133
00:07:44,159 --> 00:07:46,509
The trade started in 1432
134
00:07:46,553 --> 00:07:48,685
when a shipwrecked
Venetian merchant
135
00:07:48,729 --> 00:07:50,731
went home with a
gift of dried fish
136
00:07:50,774 --> 00:07:53,081
and instructions on
what to do with it.
137
00:07:56,563 --> 00:08:00,784
I'll try the baccala
mantecato. Si.
138
00:08:00,828 --> 00:08:04,396
The fish is whipped with
a little sunflower oil,
139
00:08:04,440 --> 00:08:07,530
its creaminess coming from
the cod's own gelatin.
140
00:08:07,574 --> 00:08:09,793
It's available
everywhere in the city...
141
00:08:09,837 --> 00:08:13,318
A snack that is to Venice
what pizza is to Naples.
142
00:08:13,362 --> 00:08:14,363
It's really good.
143
00:08:14,406 --> 00:08:16,104
And if you come to Venice,
144
00:08:16,147 --> 00:08:18,474
you could just sort of eat like
this throughout the entire day.
145
00:08:18,498 --> 00:08:19,779
You don't even have
to go to a restaurant,
146
00:08:19,803 --> 00:08:21,675
but you should go
to a restaurant.
147
00:08:21,718 --> 00:08:23,938
But if you don't want
to, you can do this.
148
00:08:25,766 --> 00:08:28,769
I'm giving you that permission.
149
00:08:28,812 --> 00:08:31,380
And I have something
stuck in my mouth.
150
00:08:38,213 --> 00:08:41,608
- At first light, Venice
is already up and working.
151
00:08:41,651 --> 00:08:44,785
Around 50,000 people
live in the old city,
152
00:08:44,828 --> 00:08:47,004
and they all want to
eat something fresh.
153
00:08:47,048 --> 00:08:48,963
Some of it comes from far away,
154
00:08:49,006 --> 00:08:51,792
but a great deal of it
comes from the lagoon.
155
00:08:51,835 --> 00:08:53,489
It's their pantry.
156
00:08:58,799 --> 00:09:03,194
I'm meeting my old friend,
Chef Gianni Scappin.
157
00:09:03,238 --> 00:09:04,935
Gianni. Oh, my God.
158
00:09:04,979 --> 00:09:06,110
- Stanley.
159
00:09:06,154 --> 00:09:07,372
- Everything okay?
- Yes.
160
00:09:07,416 --> 00:09:08,722
- Good.
- How about you?
161
00:09:08,765 --> 00:09:10,114
- Let's go. We'll
go to the boat.
162
00:09:10,158 --> 00:09:11,899
We met many years ago
163
00:09:11,942 --> 00:09:14,379
when he was the food
advisor on a movie I made
164
00:09:14,423 --> 00:09:15,337
called "Big Night."
165
00:09:15,380 --> 00:09:17,426
Ciao.
166
00:09:17,469 --> 00:09:19,123
Do I give this to you? Okay.
167
00:09:19,167 --> 00:09:20,603
All right. Grazie.
168
00:09:20,647 --> 00:09:22,605
All right. Let's go!
169
00:09:22,649 --> 00:09:24,607
Veneto born and raised,
170
00:09:24,651 --> 00:09:27,697
Gianni is going to cook a
Venetian classic with me...
171
00:09:27,741 --> 00:09:30,700
Risotto al nero di seppia.
172
00:09:32,354 --> 00:09:34,486
Yes?
173
00:09:34,530 --> 00:09:36,271
No. I think it's good.
174
00:09:36,314 --> 00:09:38,752
The ingredients are
just a boat ride away
175
00:09:38,795 --> 00:09:40,797
across the Grand Canal.
176
00:09:43,321 --> 00:09:44,627
I don't understand it.
177
00:09:44,671 --> 00:09:47,282
I literally don't understand it.
178
00:09:47,325 --> 00:09:48,892
No. Insane.
179
00:09:53,593 --> 00:09:55,812
Have you been to
this market before?
180
00:09:55,856 --> 00:09:58,598
- Yes. It is very old market.
- Yes.
181
00:09:58,641 --> 00:09:59,990
That's an understatement.
182
00:10:00,034 --> 00:10:02,602
The Rialto Fish
Market has been here
183
00:10:02,645 --> 00:10:04,995
for 1,000 years.
184
00:10:05,039 --> 00:10:07,432
Here, you're rubbing
shoulders with home cooks
185
00:10:07,476 --> 00:10:09,521
and restauranteurs.
186
00:10:09,565 --> 00:10:11,567
Oh, my God. Look at that.
187
00:10:11,611 --> 00:10:12,786
- Still alive, yeah?
188
00:10:15,484 --> 00:10:16,746
- Si.
- Si, si.
189
00:10:18,008 --> 00:10:19,488
- And wait. What are these?
190
00:10:19,531 --> 00:10:21,055
- It's like a tiny, tiny shrimp,
191
00:10:21,098 --> 00:10:23,274
and they are so tiny that
you don't clean anything.
192
00:10:23,318 --> 00:10:24,580
- You don't have to clean 'em.
193
00:10:24,624 --> 00:10:26,626
Yeah, you just eat
the whole thing.
194
00:10:26,669 --> 00:10:29,890
Okay, so that's cuttlefish.
- Cuttlefish.
195
00:10:29,933 --> 00:10:31,631
- And that's what
we're here for.
196
00:10:31,674 --> 00:10:34,677
Cuttlefish is a cousin of
the squid and the octopus.
197
00:10:34,721 --> 00:10:36,461
This is squid.
- Squid.
198
00:10:36,505 --> 00:10:38,028
- But this also has ink.
199
00:10:38,072 --> 00:10:40,901
- It does, and some
people confuse the...
200
00:10:40,944 --> 00:10:42,467
You know, risotto
nero di seppia...
201
00:10:42,511 --> 00:10:44,861
They use squid because they
cannot find the cuttlefish,
202
00:10:44,905 --> 00:10:46,863
but a Venetian will tell you,
203
00:10:46,907 --> 00:10:50,171
"No, you have to
use cuttlefish."
204
00:10:50,214 --> 00:10:52,782
- "Seppia" is Italian
for "cuttlefish,"
205
00:10:52,826 --> 00:10:55,089
and its ink is a key ingredient.
206
00:10:55,132 --> 00:10:56,612
- Seppia...
207
00:10:59,441 --> 00:11:00,616
- Si.
208
00:11:08,929 --> 00:11:10,495
- Yeah, so let's
get the little ones.
209
00:11:10,539 --> 00:11:11,714
- Yeah.
210
00:11:13,760 --> 00:11:18,634
- First, you have to extract
the ink sac unpunctured.
211
00:11:18,678 --> 00:11:22,551
It's easy if you're a
tenth-generation fishmonger.
212
00:11:22,594 --> 00:11:25,075
It looks like a pearl.
213
00:11:25,119 --> 00:11:28,905
The precious ink is used
to stain the risotto black,
214
00:11:28,949 --> 00:11:32,517
making the dish as
theatrical as Venice itself.
215
00:11:38,785 --> 00:11:42,702
For our two-person feast,
we're buying ten cuttlefish
216
00:11:42,745 --> 00:11:45,313
then heading to
my hotel to cook.
217
00:11:45,356 --> 00:11:47,924
But the problem is, I just
want to buy all of it.
218
00:11:47,968 --> 00:11:49,839
I want to buy all
of it, but I can't.
219
00:11:49,883 --> 00:11:51,188
I'm staying in a
hotel. I can't.
220
00:11:51,232 --> 00:11:53,103
- Not a good idea.
- I can't.
221
00:11:53,147 --> 00:11:56,367
This fabulous dish is
identified with Venice
222
00:11:56,411 --> 00:11:59,936
because there are so many
cuttlefish in the lagoon.
223
00:11:59,980 --> 00:12:02,417
Maybe it's also because
the whole fish is used,
224
00:12:02,460 --> 00:12:03,940
and despite their wealth,
225
00:12:03,984 --> 00:12:06,290
the Venetians are
a thrifty people.
226
00:12:06,334 --> 00:12:09,859
But we haven't been in a
kitchen together for 20 years.
227
00:12:09,903 --> 00:12:11,687
Did we even cook at my house?
228
00:12:11,731 --> 00:12:13,950
- I think we did with
your mom, your dad.
229
00:12:13,994 --> 00:12:15,517
You know, your mom was the boss.
230
00:12:15,560 --> 00:12:18,476
She was very judgmental.
231
00:12:18,520 --> 00:12:22,829
- So cuttlefish risotto
is a three-stage process,
232
00:12:22,872 --> 00:12:24,831
one of them very messy.
233
00:12:24,874 --> 00:12:28,008
- Just very gently, because you
don't want to break the sac.
234
00:12:28,051 --> 00:12:29,923
Look, see?
- Where is the sac?
235
00:12:29,966 --> 00:12:31,272
If you try it at home,
236
00:12:31,315 --> 00:12:33,100
be prepared to
repaint afterwards.
237
00:12:33,143 --> 00:12:34,884
Oh, shit, oh, shit.
- You just push...
238
00:12:34,928 --> 00:12:36,581
- I broke it.
- Great.
239
00:12:36,625 --> 00:12:38,018
- Anyway, if there were people
240
00:12:38,061 --> 00:12:39,560
that knew what they were
doing here, it would work.
241
00:12:39,584 --> 00:12:40,760
- Yeah. Exactly.
242
00:12:40,803 --> 00:12:43,110
Squeeze it down.
243
00:12:43,153 --> 00:12:45,939
- As well as the cuttles,
we bought fish heads, tails,
244
00:12:45,982 --> 00:12:50,204
and other bits to make a stock
that we'll use in the rice.
245
00:12:50,247 --> 00:12:51,858
Aren't those pieces
too big, though?
246
00:12:51,901 --> 00:12:53,685
- But they will braise.
247
00:12:53,729 --> 00:12:55,122
We're gonna break
down the fiber...
248
00:12:55,165 --> 00:12:57,037
- Okay.
- Become super, super tender.
249
00:12:57,080 --> 00:12:59,387
- Okay.
250
00:12:59,430 --> 00:13:02,738
- White wine.
- I like to bring... go ahead.
251
00:13:02,782 --> 00:13:04,305
That's good.
252
00:13:04,348 --> 00:13:06,873
Now we can put a little bit
of the passato di pomodoro.
253
00:13:06,916 --> 00:13:09,745
Not too much, 'cause, remember,
it's all about the black ink.
254
00:13:12,530 --> 00:13:14,532
Now we put the stock.
- Okay.
255
00:13:14,576 --> 00:13:17,274
- You can cover until they
become nice and tender.
256
00:13:17,318 --> 00:13:18,798
- So that's stage one.
257
00:13:18,841 --> 00:13:20,408
With the cuttlefish tenderizing,
258
00:13:20,451 --> 00:13:22,453
now it's time for the rice.
259
00:13:22,497 --> 00:13:24,064
- So do you have the onion?
260
00:13:24,107 --> 00:13:25,606
Oh, let me see. Yeah,
it's getting hot enough.
261
00:13:25,630 --> 00:13:27,197
- Uh-huh.
262
00:13:27,241 --> 00:13:30,418
- So you want to make sure you
coat the rice with the fat.
263
00:13:30,461 --> 00:13:33,421
- Arborio is the
famous risotto rice,
264
00:13:33,464 --> 00:13:35,640
but Gianni has chosen
something richer.
265
00:13:35,684 --> 00:13:37,207
It's turning white
in the center.
266
00:13:37,251 --> 00:13:39,098
- Yeah, this is all like a...
- And that's what you want.
267
00:13:39,122 --> 00:13:39,949
- Yes.
- Yeah.
268
00:13:39,993 --> 00:13:41,995
This rice is carnaroli.
269
00:13:42,038 --> 00:13:44,432
- I'm gonna start
putting my stock.
270
00:13:46,477 --> 00:13:48,392
So there you go.
271
00:13:48,436 --> 00:13:50,786
- Final stage...
Shuttle fish into rice.
272
00:13:50,830 --> 00:13:51,874
- Pasty stuff.
273
00:13:51,918 --> 00:13:53,397
- Do you want me
to put it all in?
274
00:13:53,441 --> 00:13:54,834
- Yeah.
275
00:13:54,877 --> 00:13:56,028
- The more ink, the
blacker the rice.
276
00:13:56,052 --> 00:13:57,837
- You see the pasty
stuff on the bottom?
277
00:13:57,880 --> 00:13:58,881
- Oh, yeah. Yeah, yeah.
278
00:13:58,925 --> 00:14:00,622
- That's probably
very concentrate.
279
00:14:00,665 --> 00:14:02,339
- Thanks to the spillages,
our limited supply of ink
280
00:14:02,363 --> 00:14:05,453
gives us a fashionable
gray beige.
281
00:14:05,496 --> 00:14:07,847
- This, as you can see,
we just call it all'onda,
282
00:14:07,890 --> 00:14:09,979
which is we create a big wave.
283
00:14:13,156 --> 00:14:15,289
And then the cheese.
284
00:14:15,332 --> 00:14:16,986
- Parmigiano.
285
00:14:17,030 --> 00:14:20,555
- Right in the center.
- Oh, that looks so good.
286
00:14:27,475 --> 00:14:28,693
Mmm.
- Tender, right?
287
00:14:28,737 --> 00:14:29,869
- Mm, yeah. Perfect.
288
00:14:29,912 --> 00:14:31,087
- They're not mushy.
289
00:14:31,131 --> 00:14:32,238
- Yeah, not chewy, not mushy.
- No.
290
00:14:32,262 --> 00:14:33,524
And at the end,
291
00:14:33,568 --> 00:14:35,111
you taste the actual
cuttlefish flavor, right?
292
00:14:35,135 --> 00:14:37,485
Just coming in.
- Yeah. You do.
293
00:14:37,528 --> 00:14:38,790
That's delicious.
294
00:14:38,834 --> 00:14:40,923
But also, the rice
is perfectly cooked.
295
00:14:40,967 --> 00:14:43,795
So this is a quintessential...
296
00:14:43,839 --> 00:14:45,145
- It is a classic Venetian food.
297
00:14:45,188 --> 00:14:46,624
- I'm very happy
to see you again.
298
00:14:46,668 --> 00:14:49,018
- Hug again?
- Yeah. Sure.
299
00:14:49,062 --> 00:14:50,585
Thank you.
300
00:14:50,628 --> 00:14:54,067
Risotto al nero di
seppia is so great,
301
00:14:54,110 --> 00:14:55,938
it's claimed by some
neighboring countries
302
00:14:55,982 --> 00:14:57,679
as their invention.
303
00:14:57,722 --> 00:15:00,160
We can't really know, but
in the Venetian cookbook,
304
00:15:00,203 --> 00:15:03,772
the ink's been dry
for a very long time.
305
00:15:13,216 --> 00:15:16,480
- In the fall, the soft
light in Piazza San Marco
306
00:15:16,524 --> 00:15:19,614
makes it easy to step
back more than 1,000 years
307
00:15:19,657 --> 00:15:22,138
to the start of the
Venetian Republic.
308
00:15:22,182 --> 00:15:26,969
It was ruled by the doge, a
sort of elected city boss.
309
00:15:27,013 --> 00:15:29,972
Back then, a favorite
fall delicacy,
310
00:15:30,016 --> 00:15:33,628
eaten by doge and
commoner alike, was duck.
311
00:15:33,671 --> 00:15:35,325
Today, eaten with pasta,
312
00:15:35,369 --> 00:15:37,545
it's still a warm treat
for the cold months,
313
00:15:37,588 --> 00:15:41,462
when Venetians have always
hunted birds for the pot.
314
00:15:41,505 --> 00:15:43,986
To find out more about
their fowl habits,
315
00:15:44,030 --> 00:15:46,597
I've come to Harry's Bar...
316
00:15:46,641 --> 00:15:48,208
Grazie.
317
00:15:48,251 --> 00:15:50,950
Favorite of Ernest
Hemingway, writer, drinker,
318
00:15:50,993 --> 00:15:52,386
and duck hunter.
319
00:15:52,429 --> 00:15:55,476
The house martini
is named after him.
320
00:15:55,519 --> 00:15:57,217
That's good.
321
00:15:58,914 --> 00:16:00,524
- Stanley... Nice to see you.
322
00:16:00,568 --> 00:16:02,241
- Nice to see you, too.
- Great to see you.
323
00:16:02,265 --> 00:16:04,200
- Thank you for coming here.
- Glad you're in Venice.
324
00:16:04,224 --> 00:16:07,357
- Do you want water? Martini?
325
00:16:07,401 --> 00:16:09,969
- Maybe water and martini
and a coffee as well.
326
00:16:11,579 --> 00:16:14,495
- Andrea di Robilant
is a Venetian historian
327
00:16:14,538 --> 00:16:17,106
with a passion for
duck and hunting.
328
00:16:17,150 --> 00:16:20,370
- It was a great
tradition of the doge...
329
00:16:20,414 --> 00:16:21,545
- Yeah.
330
00:16:21,589 --> 00:16:23,895
- The ruling authority
here in Venice,
331
00:16:23,939 --> 00:16:25,941
to donate five ducks...
- That's right.
332
00:16:25,985 --> 00:16:30,250
- To every member of the main
legislative body in Venice,
333
00:16:30,293 --> 00:16:33,427
but there were
about 1,000 of them,
334
00:16:33,470 --> 00:16:35,342
so it meant 5,000 ducks.
335
00:16:35,385 --> 00:16:37,039
- 5,000 ducks?
336
00:16:37,083 --> 00:16:39,259
- 5,000 ducks before Christmas.
337
00:16:39,302 --> 00:16:41,957
So imagine the rush.
338
00:16:42,001 --> 00:16:45,178
They had special state-run boats
339
00:16:45,221 --> 00:16:48,181
that would go out in the
lagoon and shoot these ducks
340
00:16:48,224 --> 00:16:50,357
so that they would
make sure that they had
341
00:16:50,400 --> 00:16:51,793
a big enough supply.
342
00:16:51,836 --> 00:16:53,273
- Whoa.
343
00:16:53,316 --> 00:16:56,537
- And there are some
beautiful paintings...
344
00:16:56,580 --> 00:16:59,496
Venetian artists depicting
these scenes in the lagoon.
345
00:16:59,540 --> 00:17:03,239
They would serve these
ducks in any kind of...
346
00:17:03,283 --> 00:17:05,372
you know, there
was duck fricassee,
347
00:17:05,415 --> 00:17:07,026
stewed duck, roast duck.
348
00:17:07,069 --> 00:17:08,853
- Duck-duck.
- All sorts of quack-quack.
349
00:17:11,117 --> 00:17:13,554
- Oh, my God.
- So, yeah.
350
00:17:13,597 --> 00:17:16,209
- To reach the doge's
happy hunting ground,
351
00:17:16,252 --> 00:17:17,949
you head west out of the city
352
00:17:17,993 --> 00:17:20,343
about 20 miles as
the duck flies.
353
00:17:22,171 --> 00:17:25,609
It's an environment hard
to describe as mainland.
354
00:17:25,653 --> 00:17:28,308
The solid-to-liquid ratio shifts
355
00:17:28,351 --> 00:17:30,658
and becomes a vast wetland.
356
00:17:37,882 --> 00:17:40,233
I'm absolutely frozen.
357
00:17:40,276 --> 00:17:42,365
Okay, for this kind of hunt,
358
00:17:42,409 --> 00:17:44,106
you have to get up
before the ducks,
359
00:17:44,150 --> 00:17:46,587
andthey get up before daybreak.
360
00:17:48,154 --> 00:17:52,071
I wish I had brought some
of those hand-warmer things.
361
00:17:52,114 --> 00:17:54,595
- The first time for you?
- Yes. First time.
362
00:17:54,638 --> 00:17:57,119
- Important is that
you manage the coffee.
363
00:17:57,163 --> 00:17:58,990
- Oh.
- I manage the rest.
364
00:17:59,034 --> 00:18:00,862
- Okay.
- Okay?
365
00:18:02,646 --> 00:18:04,213
- I had no idea we'd start
366
00:18:04,257 --> 00:18:06,085
with a lake full
of sitting ducks.
367
00:18:06,128 --> 00:18:07,999
Actually, they're wooden decoys,
368
00:18:08,043 --> 00:18:10,611
and they'll encourage the
real thing to drop by.
369
00:18:10,654 --> 00:18:12,613
So me in here? Okay.
370
00:18:12,656 --> 00:18:15,964
My host, Oliver
Martini, aptly named,
371
00:18:16,007 --> 00:18:18,227
is by day a top businessman.
372
00:18:18,271 --> 00:18:21,012
In the past, he
might have made doge.
373
00:18:21,056 --> 00:18:23,276
- Now the autumn is particular
374
00:18:23,319 --> 00:18:26,279
because many ducks
arrive from the north,
375
00:18:26,322 --> 00:18:30,065
and they stay here until March.
376
00:18:30,109 --> 00:18:31,936
- There's thousands of them.
- Yeah.
377
00:18:31,980 --> 00:18:35,201
Okay, now we try to catch
some, otherwise you don't eat.
378
00:18:37,333 --> 00:18:39,857
- Most of these
ducks are mallards...
379
00:18:42,208 --> 00:18:43,644
And so numerous,
380
00:18:43,687 --> 00:18:46,168
they're officially
listed as unendangered.
381
00:18:46,212 --> 00:18:48,301
Obviously, these
particular specimens
382
00:18:48,344 --> 00:18:50,912
are in quite a lot of danger.
383
00:18:50,955 --> 00:18:53,175
- The dog will find him.
384
00:18:53,219 --> 00:18:54,959
- This isn't just for sport.
385
00:18:55,003 --> 00:18:58,093
Every duck shot here is
destined for the table.
386
00:19:01,488 --> 00:19:04,665
So how many did you
get? Eight? Ten?
387
00:19:04,708 --> 00:19:06,406
- 15.
- 15?
388
00:19:06,449 --> 00:19:08,277
Jesus.
389
00:19:08,321 --> 00:19:12,716
That's a good lunch.
390
00:19:12,760 --> 00:19:15,545
The doge's men hunted in an age
391
00:19:15,589 --> 00:19:18,374
before conservation
was a hot topic.
392
00:19:18,418 --> 00:19:21,986
Oliver sees his role as
environmental management
393
00:19:22,030 --> 00:19:23,640
and animal husbandry.
394
00:19:23,684 --> 00:19:28,471
- We having in Veneto
about 500,000 ducks.
395
00:19:28,515 --> 00:19:30,560
The population is
increasing a lot.
396
00:19:30,604 --> 00:19:32,910
- Over the last...
- 10, 15 years.
397
00:19:32,954 --> 00:19:37,219
10 times more than 10 years ago.
398
00:19:37,263 --> 00:19:40,396
So here the job to conserve
399
00:19:40,440 --> 00:19:43,312
and improve the environment
is all what we do.
400
00:19:52,016 --> 00:19:54,280
How do you say
"magical" in Italian?
401
00:19:54,323 --> 00:19:55,542
- Magico.
402
00:19:55,585 --> 00:19:57,152
That's how you say
it? - Magico.
403
00:19:57,196 --> 00:20:00,329
- The same.
- Unbelievable.
404
00:20:04,551 --> 00:20:08,250
Just across the lagoon is
the island of Torcello,
405
00:20:08,294 --> 00:20:09,817
renowned as the place
406
00:20:09,860 --> 00:20:12,428
where the people who
built Venice first lived.
407
00:20:12,472 --> 00:20:14,474
Grazie.
408
00:20:14,517 --> 00:20:17,477
I've come to the
restaurant Villa Seicento,
409
00:20:17,520 --> 00:20:19,435
where its chef, Nicola Codolo,
410
00:20:19,479 --> 00:20:22,046
is from a family
of duck hunters.
411
00:20:22,090 --> 00:20:25,354
A third-generation duck
lover, he's cooking his take
412
00:20:25,398 --> 00:20:30,011
on the Venetian classic
sugo d'anatra, or duck ragu.
413
00:20:30,054 --> 00:20:34,450
The elements are simple...
Onions, carrot, celery, thyme,
414
00:20:34,494 --> 00:20:37,801
and bay leaf are
sauteed in olive oil.
415
00:20:37,845 --> 00:20:41,631
A simple stock made with
the bones stands ready.
416
00:20:41,675 --> 00:20:44,417
The chopped duck is gently
browned with the stock
417
00:20:44,460 --> 00:20:46,549
in a little white wine,
then it's slow-cooked,
418
00:20:46,593 --> 00:20:50,423
because wild birds can be tough.
419
00:20:50,466 --> 00:20:53,339
The scent of sugo d'anatra
420
00:20:53,382 --> 00:20:55,602
has lured Andrea
across the lagoon.
421
00:20:55,645 --> 00:21:00,346
You have no idea how
tired I am from hunting.
422
00:21:00,389 --> 00:21:01,999
- Let's hear about it.
- Yeah.
423
00:21:02,043 --> 00:21:03,803
- I hope you didn't go out in
the lagoon dressed like that.
424
00:21:03,827 --> 00:21:05,283
- No, I didn't.
- Didn't change your clothes.
425
00:21:05,307 --> 00:21:07,222
- No. I was dressed
appropriately, yeah.
426
00:21:07,266 --> 00:21:08,615
But that landscape...
427
00:21:08,658 --> 00:21:10,375
I really had no idea that
that landscape existed
428
00:21:10,399 --> 00:21:11,618
outside of Venice.
429
00:21:11,661 --> 00:21:13,359
- Yeah.
- I had never seen it before.
430
00:21:13,402 --> 00:21:16,013
- Since the very beginning
of Venetian history,
431
00:21:16,057 --> 00:21:17,319
men have shot ducks.
432
00:21:17,363 --> 00:21:19,365
That's why there
are so many recipes.
433
00:21:19,408 --> 00:21:20,757
- Yeah, yeah.
434
00:21:22,455 --> 00:21:26,285
This dish refers back to
the days of the doges.
435
00:21:26,328 --> 00:21:29,549
Old recipes feature nutmeg,
cinnamon, and saffron.
436
00:21:29,592 --> 00:21:32,682
Today Chef Codolo
plays with tradition,
437
00:21:32,726 --> 00:21:36,338
switching noodle-shaped
bigoli pasta for gnocchi.
438
00:21:37,426 --> 00:21:39,689
- Ah, look.
- Well...
439
00:21:39,733 --> 00:21:41,735
- The result of your
duck shooting, no less.
440
00:21:41,778 --> 00:21:43,432
Yeah.
441
00:21:43,476 --> 00:21:45,869
Buon appetito.
- Buon appetito.
442
00:21:45,913 --> 00:21:47,001
- Mm.
443
00:21:47,044 --> 00:21:48,350
- Yeah.
- This is good.
444
00:21:48,394 --> 00:21:51,222
- Okay, I'd eat that,
yeah. That's really good.
445
00:21:51,266 --> 00:21:52,702
- It's really tender, the duck.
446
00:21:52,746 --> 00:21:55,401
- It has, like, a
sweetness to it.
447
00:21:55,444 --> 00:21:57,359
What is that?
- The carrots, the carrots.
448
00:21:57,403 --> 00:21:59,796
- It's the carrots?
- Yeah.
449
00:21:59,840 --> 00:22:01,972
Gnocchi works very
well with it, I think.
450
00:22:02,016 --> 00:22:03,583
- Yeah.
451
00:22:03,626 --> 00:22:05,367
- It's quite a rich taste.
- Yeah, yeah.
452
00:22:05,411 --> 00:22:07,238
- So you don't need a lot of it.
453
00:22:07,282 --> 00:22:08,805
- Right, and so that
whole experience
454
00:22:08,849 --> 00:22:11,939
of the lagoon and, you
know, and early morning
455
00:22:11,982 --> 00:22:14,898
and the nature, all of
that is captured by this.
456
00:22:14,942 --> 00:22:16,552
- Yeah.
457
00:22:16,596 --> 00:22:19,381
Venetians have always
thrived on a diet of fish,
458
00:22:19,425 --> 00:22:20,861
but when fall beckons,
459
00:22:20,904 --> 00:22:22,819
their friends out in
the Veneto marshes
460
00:22:22,863 --> 00:22:24,908
have supplied an
alternative protein...
461
00:22:24,952 --> 00:22:29,217
Duck fit for a king,
or at least a doge.
462
00:22:36,529 --> 00:22:38,357
- At the height of its success,
463
00:22:38,400 --> 00:22:40,881
Venice was called
La Serenissima...
464
00:22:40,924 --> 00:22:42,578
"the most serene."
465
00:22:42,622 --> 00:22:45,538
It still is, despite the
fact that every few years,
466
00:22:45,581 --> 00:22:48,410
the Adriatic Sea floats in.
467
00:22:48,454 --> 00:22:50,891
Maurizio?
468
00:22:52,501 --> 00:22:56,070
Journalist Maurizio
Danese knows the trials
469
00:22:56,113 --> 00:22:58,072
of living by and in the sea
470
00:22:58,115 --> 00:23:01,510
and also the best
place to eat scartosso.
471
00:23:01,554 --> 00:23:04,470
Like Venice, this
delicious street food,
472
00:23:04,513 --> 00:23:06,515
a jumble of fried calamari,
473
00:23:06,559 --> 00:23:10,606
becomes more delicious from
a final dose of sea salt.
474
00:23:10,650 --> 00:23:13,304
Oh, wow.
475
00:23:17,091 --> 00:23:18,266
Si.
476
00:23:26,753 --> 00:23:27,841
Si.
477
00:23:37,328 --> 00:23:38,591
Yes. Yeah.
478
00:23:40,549 --> 00:23:42,812
For as long as
Venice has existed,
479
00:23:42,856 --> 00:23:46,076
every four years or so,
extra-high tides in fall
480
00:23:46,120 --> 00:23:48,644
and spring have done this.
481
00:23:48,688 --> 00:23:50,820
It's called theacqua alta.
482
00:23:50,864 --> 00:23:54,302
1966 was the worst
in living memory.
483
00:23:54,345 --> 00:23:58,828
2019 established a
record for this century.
484
00:23:58,872 --> 00:24:02,528
And, says Maurizio, the
seawater has a legacy.
485
00:24:18,152 --> 00:24:19,762
It's all salt?
486
00:24:23,374 --> 00:24:25,202
'Cause they weren't
salty enough.
487
00:24:28,989 --> 00:24:31,339
The people of the
lagoon are adaptable.
488
00:24:31,382 --> 00:24:33,123
They have to be.
489
00:24:33,167 --> 00:24:36,736
On the island of Mazzorbo,
they regularly get wet feet.
490
00:24:38,520 --> 00:24:40,609
Five miles northeast of Venice,
491
00:24:40,653 --> 00:24:43,699
the place comprises a
few homes, farmland,
492
00:24:43,743 --> 00:24:45,135
and a medieval vineyard
493
00:24:45,179 --> 00:24:48,487
that's been flooded
hundreds of times.
494
00:24:48,530 --> 00:24:50,532
How do you grow vines in a place
495
00:24:50,576 --> 00:24:53,622
where the roots are
soaking in brine?
496
00:24:57,060 --> 00:24:58,714
Matteo Bisol's family
497
00:24:58,758 --> 00:25:02,109
has been making wine in
the Veneto since 1542.
498
00:25:02,152 --> 00:25:03,980
- Italy's full of
vineyard, but this is...
499
00:25:04,024 --> 00:25:05,765
- I've heard that, yes.
- Quite special.
500
00:25:05,808 --> 00:25:08,768
This is a vineyard
of dorona grape.
501
00:25:08,811 --> 00:25:10,160
- Dorona?
- Yes.
502
00:25:10,204 --> 00:25:11,640
This grape variety, dorona,
503
00:25:11,684 --> 00:25:14,556
adapt itself to survive
exactly in this place,
504
00:25:14,600 --> 00:25:17,341
so this is why you
can find this variety
505
00:25:17,385 --> 00:25:18,995
only in the lagoon of Venice.
506
00:25:19,039 --> 00:25:20,649
- Really?
- Yeah.
507
00:25:20,693 --> 00:25:23,304
- For centuries, Venetians
drank this local wine,
508
00:25:23,347 --> 00:25:24,871
but the grape was the victim
509
00:25:24,914 --> 00:25:27,221
of their increasingly
sophisticated tastes.
510
00:25:27,264 --> 00:25:30,267
Dorona went extinct,
or so they thought.
511
00:25:30,311 --> 00:25:34,184
In 2001, Matteo's father
found a few surviving plants
512
00:25:34,228 --> 00:25:36,012
and brought them here.
513
00:25:36,056 --> 00:25:38,058
No sooner had the
vineyard started producing
514
00:25:38,101 --> 00:25:41,714
than the 2019
acqua alta arrived.
515
00:25:41,757 --> 00:25:43,803
- Acqua altaand the salt,
516
00:25:43,846 --> 00:25:45,761
it's a big stress for the vine.
- Right.
517
00:25:45,805 --> 00:25:47,807
- But this is very
important for quality,
518
00:25:47,850 --> 00:25:49,591
because to produce
very good wine,
519
00:25:49,635 --> 00:25:50,742
it's important that
there has to be
520
00:25:50,766 --> 00:25:52,507
a little stress for the vine.
521
00:25:52,551 --> 00:25:53,745
- No pain, no wine.
- No pain, no gain.
522
00:25:53,769 --> 00:25:56,076
No pain, no wine.
523
00:25:56,119 --> 00:25:58,078
We start with Venissa.
524
00:25:58,121 --> 00:26:01,864
- First, we try a
pre-flood bottle.
525
00:26:01,908 --> 00:26:02,909
That's amazing.
526
00:26:02,952 --> 00:26:04,911
It's really fresh.
527
00:26:04,954 --> 00:26:08,218
It's dry, and it's
soft. It's so soft.
528
00:26:08,262 --> 00:26:09,611
- Yeah.
529
00:26:09,655 --> 00:26:11,570
- And, understandably,
not inexpensive.
530
00:26:16,096 --> 00:26:18,620
- This is very special.
- Is it? Oh.
531
00:26:18,664 --> 00:26:20,709
- This is 2020 vintage.
532
00:26:20,753 --> 00:26:24,060
- It's way too early to
taste theacqua alta vintage,
533
00:26:24,104 --> 00:26:25,453
but we do anyway.
534
00:26:25,496 --> 00:26:28,369
- Yeah.
- Okay. Cheers.
535
00:26:31,111 --> 00:26:34,636
It's literally like
licking a rock.
536
00:26:34,680 --> 00:26:35,831
- But you can feel that this guy
537
00:26:35,855 --> 00:26:37,857
is going to be
something amazing,
538
00:26:37,900 --> 00:26:41,295
because the beauty and
the genius of Venice...
539
00:26:41,338 --> 00:26:42,731
- Of Venice.
540
00:26:42,775 --> 00:26:44,690
- To make something
amazing out of impossible.
541
00:26:44,733 --> 00:26:45,647
Yeah.
542
00:26:47,780 --> 00:26:50,696
- Chef Chiara Pavan also
makes something amazing
543
00:26:50,739 --> 00:26:52,698
out of the apparently
impossible.
544
00:26:52,741 --> 00:26:54,917
She runs a restaurant
within the vineyard,
545
00:26:54,961 --> 00:26:59,705
cooking with things that
thrive in the salty soil.
546
00:26:59,748 --> 00:27:02,011
The restaurant is
called Venissa.
547
00:27:02,055 --> 00:27:04,710
Her food is of the
lagoon and about it.
548
00:27:08,931 --> 00:27:10,324
Hello?
- Hi.
549
00:27:10,367 --> 00:27:11,717
- Hi.
- Nice to meet you.
550
00:27:11,760 --> 00:27:14,589
- Good. Nice to meet you, too.
551
00:27:14,633 --> 00:27:16,678
- I know you are a
very good cook, so...
552
00:27:16,722 --> 00:27:19,072
Not like you.
553
00:27:19,115 --> 00:27:21,465
- No. I mean, I haven't
tasted your food yet,
554
00:27:21,509 --> 00:27:23,772
so, you know, we'll see.
555
00:27:23,816 --> 00:27:26,862
We'll just see what happens.
556
00:27:26,906 --> 00:27:28,864
- I know you have a
Michelin star, don't you?
557
00:27:28,908 --> 00:27:30,625
- Yeah, I do, but...
- That's pretty good. Yeah.
558
00:27:30,649 --> 00:27:33,652
- Michelin star is not
my aim. It's not my joy.
559
00:27:33,695 --> 00:27:34,870
- Right, right.
560
00:27:34,914 --> 00:27:37,699
- I mean, I like
clients. I like nature.
561
00:27:37,743 --> 00:27:40,136
- Yeah.
- I like cooking.
562
00:27:40,180 --> 00:27:41,877
- So what's cooking?
563
00:27:41,921 --> 00:27:44,706
It's spaghetti,
obviously, but...
564
00:27:44,750 --> 00:27:48,710
And what do you call this dish?
- We call it spago oro.
565
00:27:48,754 --> 00:27:50,233
- Golden spaghetti.
566
00:27:50,277 --> 00:27:52,409
This is not traditional.
567
00:27:52,453 --> 00:27:56,762
- With this dish, I want to
express the flavor of lagoon.
568
00:27:56,805 --> 00:27:59,242
So this is the garum.
- Yeah?
569
00:27:59,286 --> 00:28:01,114
Loved in the ancient world,
570
00:28:01,157 --> 00:28:05,248
garum is liquid fermented fish
with a delicate umami taste.
571
00:28:05,292 --> 00:28:06,989
Oh, you can really smell that.
572
00:28:07,033 --> 00:28:08,774
- The fish. Yeah.
- The garum. Yeah, yeah.
573
00:28:08,817 --> 00:28:13,387
- I give the sour flavor
with dorona grape.
574
00:28:13,430 --> 00:28:15,911
This is the unripe grapes.
575
00:28:15,955 --> 00:28:18,827
In French, they call it verjus.
576
00:28:18,871 --> 00:28:19,959
- Oh, ver...
- Verjus.
577
00:28:20,002 --> 00:28:21,482
- Oh, I've heard of that. Yes.
578
00:28:21,525 --> 00:28:22,962
- So try to open it.
579
00:28:25,791 --> 00:28:27,923
It's boiling.
580
00:28:27,967 --> 00:28:29,969
- It's boiling?
Is it fermenting?
581
00:28:30,012 --> 00:28:33,146
- Yeah, it's fermentation,
acid-lactic fermentation.
582
00:28:33,189 --> 00:28:36,105
- Chiara uses leftover
unripe dorona grapes
583
00:28:36,149 --> 00:28:38,238
from the vineyard for her verjus
584
00:28:38,281 --> 00:28:41,632
that is soft and acidic,
like a light vinegar.
585
00:28:41,676 --> 00:28:44,418
What did you just put in there?
What was that you just put in?
586
00:28:44,461 --> 00:28:47,638
- Sea asparagus and sea parsley.
587
00:28:47,682 --> 00:28:50,076
Please.
- So this is the sea asparagus.
588
00:28:50,119 --> 00:28:54,036
This is the Italian
version of samphire,
589
00:28:54,080 --> 00:28:58,258
which has a really
great...
590
00:28:58,301 --> 00:28:59,346
Salty.
- What happened?
591
00:28:59,389 --> 00:29:00,390
No, no.
592
00:29:00,434 --> 00:29:01,783
Sale.
593
00:29:01,827 --> 00:29:04,699
It's very salty.
- Really?
594
00:29:04,743 --> 00:29:06,023
- But it's incredibly delicious.
595
00:29:08,398 --> 00:29:10,009
Actual gold leaf,
596
00:29:10,052 --> 00:29:12,838
as used by Renaissance artists.
597
00:29:12,881 --> 00:29:14,709
Stop it.
598
00:29:20,889 --> 00:29:23,065
Oh,
it's delicious.
599
00:29:23,109 --> 00:29:24,066
It's perfectly balanced.
600
00:29:24,110 --> 00:29:26,765
Creamy, unctuous.
601
00:29:26,808 --> 00:29:28,854
Wow. Wow!
602
00:29:28,897 --> 00:29:31,595
Balancing them with
sweet and sour tastes,
603
00:29:31,639 --> 00:29:34,860
Chiara transforms salty
ingredients into gold.
604
00:29:34,903 --> 00:29:37,906
It's culinary alchemy.
605
00:29:37,950 --> 00:29:39,995
I seek the deep.
606
00:29:40,039 --> 00:29:41,431
Oh, fantastico.
607
00:29:41,475 --> 00:29:43,825
Regularly dunk a
community in seawater
608
00:29:43,869 --> 00:29:45,566
for 1 1/2 millennia,
609
00:29:45,609 --> 00:29:48,003
and you'd expect them
to grow resilient.
610
00:29:48,047 --> 00:29:52,660
The Venetians always see
challenges as opportunities.
611
00:30:02,888 --> 00:30:04,977
- For centuries,
wealthy Europeans
612
00:30:05,020 --> 00:30:07,849
depended on spices to
enliven their food.
613
00:30:07,893 --> 00:30:11,418
They came overland
from Asia and Arabia
614
00:30:11,461 --> 00:30:12,898
and entered through Venice.
615
00:30:12,941 --> 00:30:16,858
Spice was like gold,
only more valuable.
616
00:30:16,902 --> 00:30:19,121
I'm headed to the
north of the city
617
00:30:19,165 --> 00:30:21,602
and a district
called Cannaregio,
618
00:30:21,645 --> 00:30:24,344
one of the six oldest
parts of the city,
619
00:30:24,387 --> 00:30:26,259
which means it's very old,
620
00:30:26,302 --> 00:30:30,045
but it's home to something
new and very spicy.
621
00:30:31,742 --> 00:30:33,048
- Yes.
- Okay.
622
00:30:33,092 --> 00:30:34,920
- Hamed Ahmadi is
from Afghanistan.
623
00:30:34,963 --> 00:30:36,225
Having upset the Taliban,
624
00:30:36,269 --> 00:30:38,227
he was in an
Italian refugee camp
625
00:30:38,271 --> 00:30:40,882
when he dreamed of
giving Venetians this...
626
00:30:43,929 --> 00:30:45,452
The tastes and flavors
627
00:30:45,495 --> 00:30:47,933
of a place their ancestors
once traded with.
628
00:30:47,976 --> 00:30:51,806
His restaurant is called
Orient Experience.
629
00:30:54,156 --> 00:30:55,549
Hello.
630
00:30:55,592 --> 00:30:57,812
- Hey, good morning, Stanley.
- Hey. Good morning.
631
00:30:57,856 --> 00:30:59,094
How are you?
- I am fine, thank you.
632
00:30:59,118 --> 00:31:01,860
- Good. Nice to see you.
- Nice to see you.
633
00:31:01,903 --> 00:31:04,340
- Thanks for meeting me.
- Thanks for being here.
634
00:31:04,384 --> 00:31:06,560
- Buongiorno.
- Buongiorno.
635
00:31:06,603 --> 00:31:09,171
- Buongiorno. Thank you.
What are we drinking?
636
00:31:09,215 --> 00:31:11,608
- The original
recipe is from Iran,
637
00:31:11,652 --> 00:31:15,351
and it's a mixture of,
like, saffron, sugar water,
638
00:31:15,395 --> 00:31:18,702
and, obviously, some prosecco.
639
00:31:18,746 --> 00:31:20,400
Cheers, cheers.
640
00:31:24,752 --> 00:31:26,319
Wow. That's delicious.
- Yeah, yeah.
641
00:31:26,362 --> 00:31:27,973
- Yeah, I love it.
642
00:31:28,016 --> 00:31:29,776
- Would you like to see
some of my colleagues?
643
00:31:29,800 --> 00:31:30,908
- Yeah, sure. Why not?
- Let's go.
644
00:31:30,932 --> 00:31:32,455
- All right. Let's go.
645
00:31:32,499 --> 00:31:34,588
Buongiorno.
- "Good morning," we're saying.
646
00:31:34,631 --> 00:31:37,460
- Hey. Hello.
647
00:31:37,504 --> 00:31:40,028
- Hello. Good morning, guys.
- Good morning.
648
00:31:42,204 --> 00:31:44,032
How are you? Nice to meet you.
649
00:31:49,342 --> 00:31:50,909
Ravioli?
- Yeah.
650
00:32:01,528 --> 00:32:02,877
- Beautiful.
651
00:32:02,921 --> 00:32:04,641
How many different
cuisines are you cooking?
652
00:32:12,582 --> 00:32:15,150
Right, right.
653
00:32:18,501 --> 00:32:21,200
No, it's fantastic.
654
00:32:21,243 --> 00:32:24,638
Hamed's staff are
all former refugees.
655
00:32:24,681 --> 00:32:27,075
They keep the link to
their own cultures alive
656
00:32:27,119 --> 00:32:29,034
through the dishes
they add to the menu.
657
00:32:35,692 --> 00:32:37,477
Is it beef?
658
00:32:37,520 --> 00:32:38,957
Oh, wow. Mmm.
659
00:32:42,134 --> 00:32:43,265
Right.
660
00:32:51,273 --> 00:32:52,273
Yeah.
661
00:33:00,587 --> 00:33:01,587
Yeah.
662
00:33:04,156 --> 00:33:05,635
Yeah, yeah. That's great.
663
00:33:05,679 --> 00:33:06,985
- Yeah.
- That's great.
664
00:33:09,900 --> 00:33:11,511
Listen, we know that Italians...
665
00:33:11,554 --> 00:33:13,730
- Mm.
- Basically eat Italian food.
666
00:33:13,774 --> 00:33:16,211
It's very hard to find
anything except Italian food.
667
00:33:16,255 --> 00:33:18,039
You might find a
French restaurant.
668
00:33:18,083 --> 00:33:19,364
You might find a
Japanese restaurant.
669
00:33:19,388 --> 00:33:21,825
It's not like other cultures.
- That's true.
670
00:33:21,869 --> 00:33:25,003
Actually, Venice is different
from the rest of Italy.
671
00:33:25,046 --> 00:33:26,569
- Is it?
- Yeah.
672
00:33:26,613 --> 00:33:30,138
We are saying, like, Venetians
are like people from south
673
00:33:30,182 --> 00:33:32,010
living in...
- In the north.
674
00:33:32,053 --> 00:33:33,228
Oh, really?
- Yeah.
675
00:33:33,272 --> 00:33:34,466
They're more open-minded?
- Yeah, yeah.
676
00:33:34,490 --> 00:33:35,448
- That's good.
677
00:33:37,145 --> 00:33:40,235
Hamed's feast is a
culinary United Nations,
678
00:33:40,279 --> 00:33:42,020
sights and scents
that underscore
679
00:33:42,063 --> 00:33:44,065
the traditional
Venetian openness
680
00:33:44,109 --> 00:33:45,806
to outside influences.
681
00:33:48,113 --> 00:33:50,898
I'm starving. Yeah.
682
00:33:50,941 --> 00:33:54,032
Oh, my God. Oh, my God!
683
00:33:54,075 --> 00:33:56,382
Wow. Thank you.
684
00:33:59,820 --> 00:34:00,995
Yes.
685
00:34:05,739 --> 00:34:07,958
Mmm. That's really good.
686
00:34:12,137 --> 00:34:13,703
Oh, I love that.
687
00:34:13,747 --> 00:34:15,270
With the lentils.
688
00:34:15,314 --> 00:34:16,663
Wow.
689
00:34:16,706 --> 00:34:18,969
There's a multiplicity
of flavors here.
690
00:34:19,013 --> 00:34:22,277
There's turmeric in the kabuli
and cardamom in the rice...
691
00:34:22,321 --> 00:34:26,064
Tastes brought home to
Venice by Hamed's team.
692
00:34:34,855 --> 00:34:36,204
Mm-hmm.
693
00:34:37,858 --> 00:34:39,033
Right.
694
00:34:42,080 --> 00:34:43,211
Right, right.
695
00:34:45,039 --> 00:34:47,172
Your restaurant attracts
a lot of people.
696
00:34:47,215 --> 00:34:50,958
- 80% with the residents
and the students here
697
00:34:51,001 --> 00:34:53,352
and 20% with tourists.
- Right.
698
00:34:53,395 --> 00:34:55,180
- 'Cause we work a
lot with Venetians
699
00:34:55,223 --> 00:34:57,878
and really thank Venetians
that they are coming to us.
700
00:34:57,921 --> 00:34:59,619
- Yeah, that's great.
- Yeah.
701
00:34:59,662 --> 00:35:01,621
- This project will
work wherever there is
702
00:35:01,664 --> 00:35:04,232
a refugee population
who need a new start
703
00:35:04,276 --> 00:35:08,280
and where diners are
open to new experiences.
704
00:35:08,323 --> 00:35:12,675
And Venice has been
very accepting of you,
705
00:35:12,719 --> 00:35:14,155
accepting of your food?
706
00:35:14,199 --> 00:35:16,114
- I think we did
a good exchange.
707
00:35:16,157 --> 00:35:17,419
- Yeah.
- Yeah.
708
00:35:17,463 --> 00:35:21,162
And the other part...
709
00:35:21,206 --> 00:35:23,382
Somehow, I am Venetian, too.
710
00:35:23,425 --> 00:35:24,861
- Yeah.
711
00:35:24,905 --> 00:35:26,796
- After 15 years, I have
to say that I am Venetian.
712
00:35:26,820 --> 00:35:27,995
- Of course. Yeah.
713
00:35:28,038 --> 00:35:30,040
- And I'm proud of that.
- Yeah.
714
00:35:30,084 --> 00:35:33,870
Some Italian politicians see
the arrival of foreign food
715
00:35:33,914 --> 00:35:36,525
and the people who
bring it as a bad thing.
716
00:35:36,569 --> 00:35:40,312
I say adding new ingredients
just makes the stew richer.
717
00:35:40,355 --> 00:35:42,009
That's the Venetian way.
718
00:35:51,279 --> 00:35:55,327
- There's a car coming.
I better hurry up.
719
00:35:55,370 --> 00:35:58,068
In medieval times,
the Veneto was larger,
720
00:35:58,112 --> 00:36:01,159
extending into what is
today the next-door neighbor
721
00:36:01,202 --> 00:36:03,813
of Friuli-Venezia Giulia.
722
00:36:03,857 --> 00:36:05,337
Here we are.
723
00:36:05,380 --> 00:36:08,209
We're in Friuli, a mile away
from the Slovenian border.
724
00:36:08,253 --> 00:36:11,081
This is northeast of Venice,
725
00:36:11,125 --> 00:36:14,302
and it's incredibly
beautiful, very lush.
726
00:36:14,346 --> 00:36:16,913
You're just not gonna
get all that fish
727
00:36:16,957 --> 00:36:18,480
that you get in Venice.
728
00:36:18,524 --> 00:36:21,222
When it was part of
the Venetian empire,
729
00:36:21,266 --> 00:36:23,093
this was the
overland entry point
730
00:36:23,137 --> 00:36:25,270
for goods from
the East and Asia,
731
00:36:25,313 --> 00:36:27,576
where spices entered Europe.
732
00:36:27,620 --> 00:36:30,579
For most of its history,
Friuli was Austrian
733
00:36:30,623 --> 00:36:33,539
and part of the
Austro-Hungarian Empire.
734
00:36:33,582 --> 00:36:37,673
All these influences have made
this very desirable crossroads
735
00:36:37,717 --> 00:36:39,719
a culinary gold mine.
736
00:36:45,159 --> 00:36:47,770
It's just so pretty.
737
00:36:47,814 --> 00:36:51,252
I've come to the
restaurant L'Argine a Venco
738
00:36:51,296 --> 00:36:53,211
to meet Chef Antonia Klugmann.
739
00:36:53,254 --> 00:36:54,777
- Welcome.
740
00:36:54,821 --> 00:36:57,215
- She has Polish, Jewish,
and Italian roots,
741
00:36:57,258 --> 00:36:58,390
and so do her menus.
742
00:36:58,433 --> 00:37:00,392
She's fusion personified.
743
00:37:00,435 --> 00:37:01,915
Thank you so much.
744
00:37:01,958 --> 00:37:03,632
- It's such a pleasure.
- No, it's a pleasure for me.
745
00:37:03,656 --> 00:37:06,920
Thank you, thank
you. Grazie. Grazie.
746
00:37:06,963 --> 00:37:08,530
- I want to show the best part.
747
00:37:08,574 --> 00:37:10,358
For me, the garden is important.
748
00:37:10,402 --> 00:37:12,926
- And this is where you grow
everything, but you use it.
749
00:37:12,969 --> 00:37:17,147
- Some of them are really
here to inspire me, you know?
750
00:37:17,191 --> 00:37:18,497
- Right.
751
00:37:18,540 --> 00:37:20,063
- And some of them
are for the guests.
752
00:37:20,107 --> 00:37:21,630
- Gorgeous.
- You know?
753
00:37:21,674 --> 00:37:23,328
- This is my favorite.
754
00:37:23,371 --> 00:37:26,287
- Chicory is a really
fundamental ingredient
755
00:37:26,331 --> 00:37:27,419
of Italian tastes,
756
00:37:27,462 --> 00:37:31,640
and I think we can
have some of them.
757
00:37:31,684 --> 00:37:33,425
- Oh, yeah.
- You know? For our kitchen.
758
00:37:33,468 --> 00:37:35,383
- Yeah, they're
gorgeous. Yeah.
759
00:37:35,427 --> 00:37:37,733
The restaurant is
a modernist gem
760
00:37:37,777 --> 00:37:40,475
in the fields...
Remote but celebrated.
761
00:37:40,519 --> 00:37:41,998
It's got a Michelin star.
762
00:37:42,042 --> 00:37:44,174
Wow.
- Welcome in my kitchen.
763
00:37:44,218 --> 00:37:46,133
- Antonia wants
me to taste a dish
764
00:37:46,176 --> 00:37:47,613
her grandparents made for her,
765
00:37:47,656 --> 00:37:49,919
food that reflects
the cultural collision
766
00:37:49,963 --> 00:37:51,791
that defines this area.
767
00:37:51,834 --> 00:37:54,315
- I wanted to show you a dish
768
00:37:54,359 --> 00:37:57,318
that it's really a
comfort food for me...
769
00:37:57,362 --> 00:37:58,537
Important to my family...
770
00:37:58,580 --> 00:38:00,539
- Yeah.
- Important to my region.
771
00:38:00,582 --> 00:38:02,410
And the goulash really
represent it all.
772
00:38:02,454 --> 00:38:04,412
- A goulash is what people
773
00:38:04,456 --> 00:38:07,415
would think of a
Hungarian recipe.
774
00:38:07,459 --> 00:38:09,722
- Austrian-Hungaric.
- Austria, yeah.
775
00:38:09,765 --> 00:38:11,332
- Austrian-Hungaric.
776
00:38:11,376 --> 00:38:15,380
So you put the base of
a normal tomato sauce,
777
00:38:15,423 --> 00:38:17,817
but you start from the garlic.
778
00:38:17,860 --> 00:38:19,732
So, when it's like this...
779
00:38:19,775 --> 00:38:22,169
You
put the tomato in.
780
00:38:22,212 --> 00:38:24,824
- Yeah.
- Now, you add the onions,
781
00:38:24,867 --> 00:38:28,480
and they will use the
water of the tomato
782
00:38:28,523 --> 00:38:32,266
to stew more gently, okay?
783
00:38:32,310 --> 00:38:34,747
- It's Austrian but in Italy.
784
00:38:34,790 --> 00:38:37,445
Goulash is usually
made with beef or lamb,
785
00:38:37,489 --> 00:38:40,274
but Antonia prefers pork cheek.
786
00:38:41,754 --> 00:38:43,364
- Okay.
- That's really interesting.
787
00:38:43,408 --> 00:38:45,584
Okay.
- I prepare some red wine.
788
00:38:45,627 --> 00:38:50,023
I will add some of this
here and bay leaves,
789
00:38:50,066 --> 00:38:53,243
génépi, and black pepper.
790
00:38:53,287 --> 00:38:56,464
I will add it right
away to our sauce.
791
00:38:56,508 --> 00:38:57,639
Okay.
- Beautiful.
792
00:38:57,683 --> 00:38:58,640
- Like this.
793
00:38:58,684 --> 00:38:59,554
Another thing...
794
00:38:59,598 --> 00:39:01,730
The cumin, okay?
- Oh, cumin.
795
00:39:01,774 --> 00:39:05,865
- And the other spices that
I need here is the paprika.
796
00:39:05,908 --> 00:39:07,475
The sweet one...
- Mm-hmm.
797
00:39:07,519 --> 00:39:10,435
- And the spicy
one... A lot of it.
798
00:39:10,478 --> 00:39:11,566
- Wow.
799
00:39:11,610 --> 00:39:13,307
- So we use much more spices
800
00:39:13,351 --> 00:39:16,354
than other parts of
the north of Italy.
801
00:39:16,397 --> 00:39:17,616
- Sure.
- And that...
802
00:39:17,659 --> 00:39:19,202
- Because you're getting
the influence from...
803
00:39:19,226 --> 00:39:20,532
- From the port.
- Yeah.
804
00:39:20,575 --> 00:39:21,881
- You know?
- Yeah.
805
00:39:21,924 --> 00:39:23,685
- In the port, we received
all these influences
806
00:39:23,709 --> 00:39:27,626
from the Turkish world, the
Greeks, the Albanians...
807
00:39:27,669 --> 00:39:29,671
- Mm-hmm, mm-hmm.
- Croatians.
808
00:39:29,715 --> 00:39:33,327
- The last ingredient is
straight out of the wild East.
809
00:39:33,371 --> 00:39:36,286
- I've put some
apricot, the dried ones.
810
00:39:36,330 --> 00:39:38,463
- To use fruit in Eastern Europe
811
00:39:38,506 --> 00:39:40,421
as part of the cooking
is very traditional.
812
00:39:40,465 --> 00:39:42,118
- Exactly. Exactly.
- Yeah.
813
00:39:42,162 --> 00:39:45,383
- And to help the tradition
along, something modern.
814
00:39:45,426 --> 00:39:47,167
Is it stewing or steaming?
815
00:39:47,210 --> 00:39:49,256
Whatever. It's genius.
816
00:39:49,299 --> 00:39:51,954
- In this way, it's
perfectly hermetic.
817
00:39:51,998 --> 00:39:54,304
- Sealed.
- Yes, sealed.
818
00:39:54,348 --> 00:39:55,915
- I've never seen
anyone do that before.
819
00:39:58,134 --> 00:40:01,529
Antonia's sister and
business partner Vittoria
820
00:40:01,573 --> 00:40:03,270
runs the restaurant.
821
00:40:03,313 --> 00:40:05,577
They keep the place intimate,
with just nine tables,
822
00:40:05,620 --> 00:40:07,883
but this afternoon,
there's ten...
823
00:40:07,927 --> 00:40:09,624
A chef's table.
824
00:40:09,668 --> 00:40:11,365
Oh, I thought
you'd never arrive.
825
00:40:11,409 --> 00:40:12,453
Hi.
826
00:40:12,497 --> 00:40:14,760
- Thank you.
- Wow.
827
00:40:14,803 --> 00:40:16,196
- Thank you.
828
00:40:16,239 --> 00:40:19,068
Let's eat our goulash
829
00:40:19,112 --> 00:40:22,942
with some veggies as a side.
830
00:40:22,985 --> 00:40:25,597
- The side dishes are
made with ingredients
831
00:40:25,640 --> 00:40:27,947
we harvested from
Antonia's garden...
832
00:40:27,990 --> 00:40:32,081
Cavolo nero with beans,
chicory with lemon,
833
00:40:32,125 --> 00:40:37,173
and then the delicious
leaves of the zucchini plant.
834
00:40:37,217 --> 00:40:40,829
- I start always from the meat.
835
00:40:40,873 --> 00:40:42,744
Mmm.
836
00:40:42,788 --> 00:40:44,616
- Oh, my God.
837
00:40:44,659 --> 00:40:46,748
That cheek. It's
the guanciale.
838
00:40:46,792 --> 00:40:47,532
- Mm-hmm.
- Right?
839
00:40:47,575 --> 00:40:49,621
Oh, that's really good.
840
00:40:49,664 --> 00:40:52,537
This is delicious. Delicious.
841
00:40:52,580 --> 00:40:55,191
- I'm happy that you love.
- I love it.
842
00:40:55,235 --> 00:40:59,457
It's the perfect mix of so
many different cultures...
843
00:40:59,500 --> 00:41:02,503
- Yes.
- Right in a bowl.
844
00:41:02,547 --> 00:41:07,508
- We have to tell the people
that Italy is not a cliché.
845
00:41:07,552 --> 00:41:11,077
Every region has many shades,
846
00:41:11,120 --> 00:41:12,818
and Friuli-Venezia Giulia
847
00:41:12,861 --> 00:41:17,605
is one of the most
interesting place to visit,
848
00:41:17,649 --> 00:41:19,781
because of this complexity.
849
00:41:19,825 --> 00:41:23,524
- And you've had a great impact
making people aware of that,
850
00:41:23,568 --> 00:41:27,920
because you have this
incredible restaurant.
851
00:41:27,963 --> 00:41:32,664
The rich fusion of tastes in
Friuli comes from geography
852
00:41:32,707 --> 00:41:35,405
and a history of the
citizens' openness
853
00:41:35,449 --> 00:41:37,625
to outside influences.
854
00:41:37,669 --> 00:41:39,540
But they weren't the only ones.
855
00:41:39,584 --> 00:41:42,587
The Venetians, too, relied
on centuries of trade
856
00:41:42,630 --> 00:41:45,546
to create immense wealth
and global influence.
857
00:41:47,592 --> 00:41:51,334
Visiting the Veneto today, we
can still enjoy ingredients
858
00:41:51,378 --> 00:41:54,773
first brought home by
the merchants of Venice
859
00:41:54,816 --> 00:41:57,427
and eat the dishes
they created with them
860
00:41:57,471 --> 00:42:00,996
in their city by the sea...
861
00:42:01,040 --> 00:42:04,696
very clever people with
a taste for adventure.
62653
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