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[narrator]
A breathtaking tower
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in the forests of Croatia.
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If this was in any town
or city in the world,
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it would make foran extraordinary landmark.
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[narrator] Buildings ina Columbian ghost town
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reclaimed by nature.
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[Dougal] They've almostbeen sucked down
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into the earth beneath them.
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It's quite an eerie place.
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[narrator]
And a majestic facility
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[narrator]
And a majestic facility
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on the banks of the Thames.
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[Alicia] As you enter,
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you can really feelthe grandiosity of this place.
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It's almost cathedral-like.
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[narrator] Decaying relics,ruins of lost worlds,
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sites haunted by the past,
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their secrets waitingto be revealed.
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[narrator] On the edge ofNew York Harbor is a colossal,
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modern-looking building.
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[Jim]
This one, you can't miss,
even from miles away,
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you can see this structure
is absolutely enormous.
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It's quite a mystery
what this is.
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It has this bighangar-like feel.
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You actually come to realize
that there are two buildings
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You actually come to realize
that there are two buildings
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that are linked by thesehuge hovering bridges.
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[narrator]
Only when entering inside
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does its abandonedstate become clear.
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Its purpose, however,is anything but.
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[Jim] In the centerof the building
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is this giant atrium
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that goes up for
several stories
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and there is rail road tracksthat run right through it.
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[Geoff] But then it hasthese strange protuberances,
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these balconies juttingout of the walls,
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these balconies juttingout of the walls,
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something like
I've never seen before.
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[narrator] This buildingwas a response
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to an unparalleledlogistical challenge.
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[Geoff] There's probablya few buildings in the world
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that saw so many peoplecome in and out of its doors.
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And unfortunately,
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who passed through
the doors of this place
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never came back alive.
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[narrator] In 1917,the United States
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entered the First World War,
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entered the First World War,
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but fighting on battlefieldsthousands of miles away
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posed an unprecedentedproblem.
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The US had a huge
logistical challenge of
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getting tens of
thousands of troops
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and thousands and thousandsof tons of equipment,
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food and suppliesback and forth
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across the Atlantic.
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[narrator] An army oftwo million needed
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to be raisedand shipped across the ocean.
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To overcome thismammoth task,
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they designed thisextraordinary complex.
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they designed thisextraordinary complex.
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In so many areas,
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this building is
a record breaker,
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and the reason for that is its
incredibly innovative design.
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[narrator] This isthe Brooklyn Army Terminal,
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and the man behindits creation is
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renowned architectCass Gilbert.
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Now, Cass Gilbert
is really well-known
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for designing buildings like
the neo-Gothic skyscraper,
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the Woolworth Building.
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This is obviously
a very different building,
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very utilitarian.
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very utilitarian.
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[narrator] Andrew Gustafsonis an expert
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on the historyof the structure.
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[Andrew]
This building was built
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entirely out ofreinforced concrete.
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And when it was built,
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it was the largest concretebuilding in the world.
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You can see, it was
built with floors,
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you know,
almost 10 inches thick.
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[Jim] The concrete structurewas so robust,
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they actually allowedthe workers
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to drive around
in military jeeps.
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And you can stillsee some of
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the speed limit signs today.
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[narrator] This wasa vast logistical hub
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that would carryurgently needed troops,
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weapons and suppliesto the trenches
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of Western Europe,
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and at its heartwas the atrium.
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[Andrew] This was designedto be the main cargo
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handling areafor the facility.
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This was an indoor railyard.
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You could drivetwo trains directly
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into the building,and overhead,
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it used to have glass
so it could operate
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24/7 year-round regardless
of the weather.
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24/7 year-round regardless
of the weather.
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These trains would pull in
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and they would unload themonto this central platform.
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And then above us,
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we also have a pair of old5-ton electric gantry cranes.
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So these cranes could bepositioned over that cargo,
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they would lower a cable,pick it up,
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and then they would dropit into these balconies.
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[Geoff]
It was really a marvel.
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It had 96 centrallycontrolled freight elevators,
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giving it just amazinglogistical potential.
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And it was the most
advanced freight terminal
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And it was the most
advanced freight terminal
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in the world at the time.
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[narrator] The cargo wasn'tjust here to be stored.
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It needed to be movedin and out
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at a moment's notice.
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For this, Cass Gilbertdesigned something unique.
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So we're standing
in the skybridge.
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Essentially, they builta whole separate grade
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on the third level thatconnected Warehouse A
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out to the piers.
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The idea was that once youloaded a piece of cargo
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The idea was that once youloaded a piece of cargo
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into the warehouse,
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it never touchedthe ground again
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until it wasloaded onto a ship.
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[Geoff] It meant thatthe Army Terminal
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had the capability todo intermodal shipping.
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There's no sort of
barrier in between
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where things have
to be offloaded,
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carried to the pier
and then loaded again.
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They'd come straight fromthe train and onto the ship,
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vastly speeding up the processof supplying armies
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or transporting troops.
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[narrator] It wasa groundbreaking site
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built in record time.
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built in record time.
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This massive four million
square foot facility of piers
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and wharves and warehouses
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and terminals was constructedover just 17 months,
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four million square feet
in 17 months.
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[narrator] And yet,it wasn't quick enough.
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The summer offensives of 1918,led by Britain and France,
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had brought Germanyto its knees.
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By the fall, Allied victorywas all but complete,
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with 10,000 American troopsarriving in France every day.
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with 10,000 American troopsarriving in France every day.
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But not one of them camethrough this complex.
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[Geoff] United States joinedthe war in April of 1917
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but didn't getits first troops
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into battle until Juneof 1918.
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So we were planning
on a 1919 campaign,
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but the war ends in 1918.
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So what do you dowith this place?
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[narrator] Completedin September 1919,
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they had missed the warby 10 months,
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they had missed the warby 10 months,
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but it wasn't longbefore the government
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found a new enemyof the state,
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this time internally,
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and it would give the terminala new lease of life.
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Prohibition starts
in early 1920,
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and all of a suddenthe federal government
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is mobilizing tons ofresources
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to fight the scourgeof alcohol.
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They confiscated
an awful lot of liquor
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in the city of New York.
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A lot of it was stored here.
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[Geoff] And at any giventime during Prohibition,
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there was something like
a quarter of a billion dollars
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in today's dollars' worth of
confiscated drugs and alcohol
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in these big buildings.
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[Jim] In fact, at one point,
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they had so much they
started to dispose of it
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through a hole in the dock.
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[narrator] One New Yorkerhad a cunning plan
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to exploit this situation.
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That one day in 1927,
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when they opened up
that hole in the pier,
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they discovered strings
of about 20 buckets
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they discovered strings
of about 20 buckets
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that were hanging on wiresunderneath that hole.
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So someone had actually
rowed underneath the pier,
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strung up those buckets,
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waited for them to dump out
that slurry of beer and wine.
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I don't know what theywould advertise it as
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but probably some
pretty unpleasant stuff.
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[narrator] The terminalproved a useful tool
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in the fight against alcohol,
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but its originalwartime design was about
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but its originalwartime design was about
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to be put to the test.
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[narrator] This isthe Brooklyn Army Terminal,
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an epic constructiondesigned to speed men
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and materialsacross the Atlantic
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during the First World War,
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but the war was overbefore it was ready.
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Soon, however, it wouldfinally come into its own
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and do what it was built for.
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Most Americans had
regarded to World War I
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as the war to end all wars.
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as the war to end all wars.
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But then December 7, 1941,
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the Japaneseattack Pearl Harbor
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and sink most ofthe American Pacific fleet.
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America suddenly findsitself in a world war again.
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With World War II,
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you really have
the Brooklyn Army Terminal
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coming sort of full circle,so to speak,
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to fulfill itsoriginal purpose.
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The first two major
deployments of the US Army
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following the attack
on Pearl Harbor,
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both started right here.
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On January 15, 1942,Operation Magnet began.
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On January 15, 1942,Operation Magnet began.
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And so this was a deploymentof about 4,000
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US Army troops going fromBrooklyn to Belfast,
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Northern Ireland,
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to help reinforcethe British there.
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Just about a weekafter Operation Magnet,
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we had another taskforce that was assembled
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that was bringingthe first American troops
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into the Pacific theater.
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Over the course of the war,
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3.2 million military personnel
moved through this building
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3.2 million military personnel
moved through this building
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and 37 million tonsof equipment.
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[Geoff] The BrooklynArmy Terminal
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became the largest supply base
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anywhere in the world
during World War II.
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[narrator] The terminal alsoholds another sobering record.
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It was the solemn
duty and responsibility
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of the Brooklyn Army
terminal to actually
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receive the remainsof Americans killed
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in the European theater.
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In fact, 140,000 Americanscame back
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In fact, 140,000 Americanscame back
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to the Brooklyn Army Terminal.
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That represents about
three quarters
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of all of the Americans
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whose remains were repatriated
to the United States.
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[narrator] Althoughthe Second World War
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came to an end in 1945,
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troop rotations continuedthrough the Cold War.
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And one of the morefamous soldiers to depart
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from the terminalwas Elvis Presley.
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[Michele] He's draftedinto the military
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and what he decides to dois rather
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and what he decides to dois rather
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than servein special services,
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which would haveenabled him to perform
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as a musicianand entertain troops,
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he actually decided to
enlist as a regular soldier.
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So he goes through
basic training.
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And in September of 1958,
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he decides to hold thismassive press scene
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at Brooklyn Army Terminalbefore he departs.
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This is a huge PR
and marketing moment
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for the US Army that
this massive rock star
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was putting his career
on pause to serve his country.
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was putting his career
on pause to serve his country.
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[narrator] Despite itsonce revolutionary design,
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its days were numbered.
262
00:11:42,867 --> 00:11:46,700
In 1966, it was forced outof business,
263
00:11:46,767 --> 00:11:50,066
outdated by the advent ofcontainerized shipping.
264
00:11:52,567 --> 00:11:55,867
Yet its strengthand design has ensured
265
00:11:55,867 --> 00:11:59,567
that the Brooklyn ArmyTerminal still has a future.
266
00:11:59,567 --> 00:12:01,767
[Jim] It's a sign ofhow well-made
267
00:12:01,767 --> 00:12:03,880
and functional this buildingis that even though
268
00:12:03,880 --> 00:12:04,000
and functional this buildingis that even though
269
00:12:04,000 --> 00:12:06,367
much of it has sat emptyfor decades,
270
00:12:06,367 --> 00:12:08,667
parts of it arenow being reused
271
00:12:08,667 --> 00:12:10,567
and new businessesare moving in,
272
00:12:10,567 --> 00:12:12,800
restaurants,startup companies.
273
00:12:12,867 --> 00:12:14,367
So some corners
of this complex
274
00:12:14,367 --> 00:12:16,667
are actually thriving
with new life.
275
00:12:21,867 --> 00:12:23,567
[narrator] In rural Colombia,
276
00:12:23,567 --> 00:12:25,900
in the shadowof the Andes Mountains,
277
00:12:25,967 --> 00:12:28,767
a site lies shatteredand semi-hidden
278
00:12:28,767 --> 00:12:30,200
in the undergrowth.
279
00:12:35,166 --> 00:12:37,600
[Dougal] You've got sortof roads that sometimes
280
00:12:37,667 --> 00:12:40,600
appear to lead nowhereor just disappear,
281
00:12:40,667 --> 00:12:42,767
and then you've gotbuildings either side
282
00:12:42,767 --> 00:12:46,600
that seem to have almost
been engulfed by the ground.
283
00:12:46,667 --> 00:12:47,867
[Alicia]
Everything is really odd.
284
00:12:47,867 --> 00:12:50,600
You don't know if the ground
has risen up
285
00:12:50,667 --> 00:12:53,367
or if the buildings
have sunk down.
286
00:12:53,367 --> 00:12:55,166
There's whole
streets of buildings
287
00:12:55,166 --> 00:12:59,367
that seem to be half missing,
partly destroyed.
288
00:12:59,367 --> 00:13:01,800
[Rob] The roofs havebeen removed off many
289
00:13:01,867 --> 00:13:03,880
and the walls are caving in.
290
00:13:03,880 --> 00:13:04,000
and the walls are caving in.
291
00:13:04,000 --> 00:13:07,867
This isn't just the ravages
of time that's done this.
292
00:13:07,867 --> 00:13:09,700
[narrator]
Whatever happened here
293
00:13:09,767 --> 00:13:12,800
didn't just destroythe buildings.
294
00:13:12,867 --> 00:13:14,066
[Rob] There are crosses,
295
00:13:14,066 --> 00:13:18,100
gravestones and shrines
everywhere.
296
00:13:18,100 --> 00:13:20,400
[Alicia] Columbia hasa really tumultuous
297
00:13:20,467 --> 00:13:21,500
and dangerous history.
298
00:13:21,567 --> 00:13:24,266
Was this war,was this violence
299
00:13:24,266 --> 00:13:26,166
or was this something else?
300
00:13:28,166 --> 00:13:30,200
[Dougal] And this is oneof the worst disasters
301
00:13:30,266 --> 00:13:33,100
of this kind in human history.
302
00:13:33,166 --> 00:13:33,880
It's certainly up there as
one of the most dramatic.
303
00:13:33,880 --> 00:13:34,000
It's certainly up there as
one of the most dramatic.
304
00:13:47,767 --> 00:13:50,567
[narrator]
This is the town of Armero.
305
00:13:50,567 --> 00:13:52,867
When Freddy Gutierrezlived here,
306
00:13:52,867 --> 00:13:54,700
it was a thriving community.
307
00:13:54,767 --> 00:13:56,300
[Freddy speaking Spanish]
308
00:13:56,300 --> 00:13:58,900
[translator] On our right,we havewhat was Carmen's church
309
00:14:00,066 --> 00:14:03,500
and on our left,the stadium.
310
00:14:04,600 --> 00:14:05,900
Over there in that corner,
311
00:14:05,967 --> 00:14:07,767
there wasa pretty big playground.
312
00:14:08,767 --> 00:14:09,240
I always remember,the hustle and bustle.
313
00:14:09,240 --> 00:14:10,000
I always remember,the hustle and bustle.
314
00:14:13,300 --> 00:14:14,567
[narrator] At its height,
315
00:14:14,567 --> 00:14:18,567
this town was home toaround 30,000 residents.
316
00:14:18,567 --> 00:14:21,367
Freddy lived here with hisparents and two brothers.
317
00:14:21,367 --> 00:14:22,567
[speaking Spanish]
318
00:14:22,600 --> 00:14:25,667
[translator] This is the houseon 21st Street.
319
00:14:25,667 --> 00:14:28,266
We lived happilyin that house.
320
00:14:28,266 --> 00:14:30,800
We lived hereuntil November 13.
321
00:14:32,300 --> 00:14:34,266
From here,we left that night.
322
00:14:36,166 --> 00:14:38,867
[narrator] Overnight,this town was transformed
323
00:14:38,867 --> 00:14:39,240
from a place of lifeand vitality into a wasteland.
324
00:14:39,240 --> 00:14:40,000
from a place of lifeand vitality into a wasteland.
325
00:14:43,166 --> 00:14:46,767
And the reasonlay 45 miles west.
326
00:14:46,767 --> 00:14:48,300
[Alicia] We arein the plateaus
327
00:14:48,367 --> 00:14:50,000
of Nevado Del Ruiz,
328
00:14:50,066 --> 00:14:53,467
which completely
dominates the landscape.
329
00:14:53,467 --> 00:14:56,800
[Rob] Although the volcanohad been silent for decades,
330
00:14:56,867 --> 00:15:00,867
in 1984,
all that started to change.
331
00:15:00,867 --> 00:15:02,700
[Alicia] The first signwas tremors,
332
00:15:02,767 --> 00:15:05,400
and then the following March,a UN
333
00:15:05,467 --> 00:15:09,240
seismologist actually observed
a 500 foot vapor column
334
00:15:09,240 --> 00:15:09,867
seismologist actually observed
a 500 foot vapor column
335
00:15:09,867 --> 00:15:10,000
and determined that
this was a precursor
336
00:15:12,166 --> 00:15:13,767
to a massive eruption.
337
00:15:15,667 --> 00:15:17,967
[Dougal] By October 1985,
338
00:15:17,967 --> 00:15:20,900
a fairly detailed hazard map
had been put together
339
00:15:20,967 --> 00:15:23,767
and it was clear that they'doutlined a number of places
340
00:15:23,767 --> 00:15:26,367
that shouldor needed to be evacuated.
341
00:15:27,767 --> 00:15:31,166
[narrator] At the centerof that map lay Armero,
342
00:15:31,166 --> 00:15:34,000
and the damage wouldlikely be catastrophic
343
00:15:34,000 --> 00:15:37,266
due to the unique featuresof this volcano.
344
00:15:37,266 --> 00:15:39,240
[Dougal] It's some17,400 plus feet high,
345
00:15:39,240 --> 00:15:40,000
[Dougal] It's some17,400 plus feet high,
346
00:15:41,667 --> 00:15:43,867
and even though it's
near the equator,
347
00:15:43,867 --> 00:15:45,200
because of its height,
348
00:15:45,200 --> 00:15:49,100
its upper parts and its peakis covered in snow and ice.
349
00:15:49,100 --> 00:15:52,767
If you impart hot volcanic
material onto snow and ice,
350
00:15:52,767 --> 00:15:54,800
you very quickly
turn it into water
351
00:15:54,867 --> 00:15:58,266
and you can mix that loosevolcanic material into almost,
352
00:15:58,266 --> 00:16:00,600
like, what we calla volcanic slurry.
353
00:16:00,667 --> 00:16:02,700
And this phenomenon,called a lahar,
354
00:16:02,767 --> 00:16:05,000
can be quite deadly.
355
00:16:05,000 --> 00:16:07,567
[narrator] The hazard mapplaced Armero directly
356
00:16:07,567 --> 00:16:09,240
in the firing lineof these lahars.
357
00:16:09,240 --> 00:16:10,000
in the firing lineof these lahars.
358
00:16:10,066 --> 00:16:11,700
But what the geologistspredicted
359
00:16:11,767 --> 00:16:13,667
and what the residentswere told
360
00:16:13,667 --> 00:16:16,266
were two verydifferent things.
361
00:16:16,266 --> 00:16:19,467
[Rob] The map met withcriticism from the authorities
362
00:16:19,467 --> 00:16:22,567
because they felt thatit was too alarming
363
00:16:22,567 --> 00:16:25,767
and so they decided not
to widely distribute it
364
00:16:25,767 --> 00:16:27,500
amongst the population.
365
00:16:27,567 --> 00:16:29,767
[narrator] Armero'sresidents wouldn't be ready
366
00:16:29,767 --> 00:16:32,567
for what was coming their way.
367
00:16:32,567 --> 00:16:35,367
[Rob] The possibilityof lahars was high,
368
00:16:35,367 --> 00:16:37,567
and geologists
predicted that any magma
369
00:16:37,567 --> 00:16:38,867
coming through the summit
370
00:16:38,867 --> 00:16:39,240
could have
devastating effects.
371
00:16:39,240 --> 00:16:40,000
could have
devastating effects.
372
00:16:41,967 --> 00:16:46,000
They desperately urgedlocal officials to evacuate,
373
00:16:46,066 --> 00:16:50,300
but it seems that their
warnings fell on deaf ears.
374
00:16:50,367 --> 00:16:52,467
[narrator] Six weeksafter the hazard map
375
00:16:52,467 --> 00:16:53,800
had been produced
376
00:16:53,867 --> 00:16:56,066
and the evacuationof Armero first
377
00:16:56,066 --> 00:16:59,266
recommended disaster struck.
378
00:16:59,266 --> 00:17:01,567
On November 13, 1985,
379
00:17:01,567 --> 00:17:04,767
black ash began tospew out of the volcano
380
00:17:04,767 --> 00:17:06,867
and immediately geologists
381
00:17:06,867 --> 00:17:09,240
demanded the evacuationof Armero
382
00:17:09,240 --> 00:17:09,266
demanded the evacuationof Armero
383
00:17:09,266 --> 00:17:10,000
and the neighboring villages.
384
00:17:12,400 --> 00:17:15,400
[narrator] Despite this,Radio Armero called
385
00:17:15,467 --> 00:17:19,266
for residents not to panicand stay in their homes,
386
00:17:19,266 --> 00:17:21,400
a message echoedby the town's priest
387
00:17:21,467 --> 00:17:23,300
over the church'sloudspeakers.
388
00:17:24,467 --> 00:17:27,867
Just after 9:00 p.m.,the volcano blew.
389
00:17:29,700 --> 00:17:32,867
With a massive stormand lashing rain outside,
390
00:17:32,867 --> 00:17:35,100
few heard the warning signs.
391
00:17:35,100 --> 00:17:39,240
As predicted, the eruption
produced pyroclastic flows
392
00:17:39,240 --> 00:17:39,400
As predicted, the eruption
produced pyroclastic flows
393
00:17:39,467 --> 00:17:40,000
that melted the summerglaciers and snow,
394
00:17:42,066 --> 00:17:45,367
creating four thick lahars.
395
00:17:45,367 --> 00:17:48,200
But these were far worse
than anyone
396
00:17:48,266 --> 00:17:50,600
could have ever imagined.
397
00:17:50,667 --> 00:17:51,800
[Freddy speaking Spanish]
398
00:17:51,800 --> 00:17:53,600
[translator] Whenthe avalanche hit the town,
399
00:17:55,000 --> 00:17:58,567
I would say the first symptomwas the horrific sound of it.
400
00:18:00,300 --> 00:18:02,000
It was indescribable.
401
00:18:04,567 --> 00:18:07,066
[narrator] Freddy's parentsdidn't hang around.
402
00:18:07,066 --> 00:18:08,767
They grabbedthe three children,
403
00:18:08,767 --> 00:18:09,240
left the houseand headed down the street,
404
00:18:09,240 --> 00:18:10,000
left the houseand headed down the street,
405
00:18:11,467 --> 00:18:14,266
ash falling in the darkness.
406
00:18:14,266 --> 00:18:16,367
[translator] We were allvery scared because
407
00:18:16,367 --> 00:18:20,266
you know something iscoming after you to hurt you.
408
00:18:20,266 --> 00:18:23,567
But we knew nothing else.We didn't know what to do.
409
00:18:25,266 --> 00:18:28,867
[narrator] Lahars cascadedinto the west side of town,
410
00:18:28,867 --> 00:18:31,900
but Freddy was a milefrom the initial impact
411
00:18:31,967 --> 00:18:34,667
and they pushed northtowards the church.
412
00:18:34,667 --> 00:18:36,266
[Freddy speaking Spanish]
413
00:18:36,266 --> 00:18:38,300
[translator] Unfortunately,as we were approachingthe church,
414
00:18:38,367 --> 00:18:39,240
we realized the avalanche was
415
00:18:39,240 --> 00:18:39,700
we realized the avalanche was
416
00:18:39,767 --> 00:18:40,000
coming downtowards the stadium.
417
00:18:42,867 --> 00:18:46,100
We were grabbingtrees, walls, anything.
418
00:18:46,166 --> 00:18:47,867
But a second avalanche came
419
00:18:47,867 --> 00:18:50,000
and raisedthe mud level again.
420
00:18:50,066 --> 00:18:51,867
That was the momentwe found ourselves
421
00:18:51,867 --> 00:18:54,266
with the mud up to our necks.
422
00:18:56,367 --> 00:18:57,500
[Rob] Within minutes,
423
00:18:57,500 --> 00:19:02,300
85% of the town wascovered in mud and debris.
424
00:19:02,367 --> 00:19:07,500
The sheer volume and speed of
the mudflows was astounding.
425
00:19:07,567 --> 00:19:09,166
[Freddy speaking Spanish]
426
00:19:09,166 --> 00:19:09,240
[translator] My youngerbrother slipped away frommy mom's arms.
427
00:19:09,240 --> 00:19:10,000
[translator] My youngerbrother slipped away frommy mom's arms.
428
00:19:11,066 --> 00:19:12,967
She managed to save him.
429
00:19:12,967 --> 00:19:14,567
And when she tookhim from the mud,
430
00:19:14,567 --> 00:19:16,800
he was completely naked.
431
00:19:16,867 --> 00:19:18,700
He had just turnedthree years old.
432
00:19:20,667 --> 00:19:23,600
[narrator] Many wereswept away or pulled under
433
00:19:23,667 --> 00:19:27,367
and suffocated bythe thick mud of the lahars.
434
00:19:27,367 --> 00:19:28,900
[Freddy speaking Spanish]
435
00:19:28,900 --> 00:19:31,200
[translator] The level wasrising and getting thicker,too.
436
00:19:31,266 --> 00:19:36,900
We had to cling to the treesas a group to stay together.
437
00:19:36,967 --> 00:19:39,240
[narrator] Soon,they heard a familiar voice.
438
00:19:39,240 --> 00:19:39,667
[narrator] Soon,they heard a familiar voice.
439
00:19:39,667 --> 00:19:40,000
It was a local takingrefuge on a nearby roof,
440
00:19:43,100 --> 00:19:46,266
and he helped them climbthe trees to safety.
441
00:19:46,266 --> 00:19:47,367
[Freddy speaking Spanish]
442
00:19:47,367 --> 00:19:49,000
[translator] It wasthe most tragic night.
443
00:19:49,066 --> 00:19:52,967
We prayed for our lives,for everyone's lives,
444
00:19:52,967 --> 00:19:56,367
and for the town, which wasin that moment disappearing.
445
00:19:58,266 --> 00:19:59,600
[narrator] Huddled together,
446
00:19:59,667 --> 00:20:02,000
they prepared tosee out the night.
447
00:20:02,000 --> 00:20:05,667
No idea what scene awaitedthem in the morning.
448
00:20:17,367 --> 00:20:19,700
[narrator] In October 1985,
449
00:20:19,767 --> 00:20:21,967
geologists produceda hazard map
450
00:20:21,967 --> 00:20:25,000
that placed the town ofArmero in imminent danger
451
00:20:25,066 --> 00:20:27,967
from one ofColombia's largest volcanoes.
452
00:20:27,967 --> 00:20:30,367
But authoritiesdownplayed the danger,
453
00:20:30,367 --> 00:20:34,000
leaving residents totallyunprepared for the mudslides
454
00:20:34,000 --> 00:20:37,767
known as lahars thatravaged the town.
455
00:20:37,767 --> 00:20:38,867
[speaking Spanish]
456
00:20:38,867 --> 00:20:38,920
[translator] The horror,the uncertainty
457
00:20:38,920 --> 00:20:39,000
[translator] The horror,the uncertainty
458
00:20:40,867 --> 00:20:42,867
about more avalanches coming,
459
00:20:44,066 --> 00:20:47,166
a deep silencecovering everything,
460
00:20:47,166 --> 00:20:50,166
just before people whogot stuck started to shout
461
00:20:50,166 --> 00:20:52,567
and cry and not knowing
462
00:20:52,567 --> 00:20:55,567
what was beneath usor if we could sink.
463
00:20:57,967 --> 00:21:00,300
[narrator] Freddy and hisfamily survived the night
464
00:21:00,367 --> 00:21:02,767
on a rooftop as everythingaround them
465
00:21:02,767 --> 00:21:05,066
was consumed by mud.
466
00:21:05,066 --> 00:21:06,667
They were rescuedthe next day,
467
00:21:06,667 --> 00:21:08,920
but after a disastrousrelief operation,
468
00:21:08,920 --> 00:21:09,000
but after a disastrousrelief operation,
469
00:21:09,667 --> 00:21:13,900
around 23,000 people werebelieved to have died.
470
00:21:13,967 --> 00:21:16,400
Many of theirbodies never found.
471
00:21:16,467 --> 00:21:20,600
It has been the deadliestlahar in recorded history.
472
00:21:20,667 --> 00:21:23,800
[Dougal] It erupted some35 million tons of material,
473
00:21:23,867 --> 00:21:26,166
but that's only about
3% to 4% of
474
00:21:26,166 --> 00:21:27,667
what came out of the famous
475
00:21:27,667 --> 00:21:30,900
Mount St. Helens eruption
in 1980.
476
00:21:30,967 --> 00:21:32,166
So in many ways,
477
00:21:32,166 --> 00:21:35,300
it was a relatively smallexplosive volcanic event.
478
00:21:35,367 --> 00:21:37,800
But if you couple thatwith the hot material
479
00:21:37,867 --> 00:21:38,920
landing on snow and ice,
480
00:21:38,920 --> 00:21:39,000
landing on snow and ice,
481
00:21:39,467 --> 00:21:43,367
when you then funnel thatpower down the river valleys,
482
00:21:43,367 --> 00:21:44,900
you can turn something
that's a relatively
483
00:21:44,967 --> 00:21:49,300
small eruption into
a deadly lahar.
484
00:21:49,367 --> 00:21:50,700
[narrator]
The town's buildings
485
00:21:50,767 --> 00:21:52,367
most destroyed or buried,
486
00:21:52,367 --> 00:21:55,166
some still visiblebut half sunken,
487
00:21:55,166 --> 00:21:57,467
are testament to its power.
488
00:21:57,467 --> 00:21:59,700
It serves as a stark warning
489
00:21:59,767 --> 00:22:01,900
that ignoringadvice of scientists
490
00:22:01,967 --> 00:22:03,800
is a dangerous game.
491
00:22:06,400 --> 00:22:08,700
The town, never rebuilt,
492
00:22:08,767 --> 00:22:08,920
is preserved as a memorialto the dead.
493
00:22:08,920 --> 00:22:09,000
is preserved as a memorialto the dead.
494
00:22:11,867 --> 00:22:13,567
For those left behind,
495
00:22:13,567 --> 00:22:16,800
the events of that nightare always with them.
496
00:22:16,867 --> 00:22:18,066
[Freddy speaking Spanish]
497
00:22:18,066 --> 00:22:22,367
[translator] Our mourningcontinues for our city,
498
00:22:22,367 --> 00:22:26,100
for all the people who diedand for all that was lost.
499
00:22:26,166 --> 00:22:28,266
However, we haveto find our place
500
00:22:28,266 --> 00:22:30,567
in the world and move forward.
501
00:22:36,367 --> 00:22:38,567
[narrator] On the banksof the River Thames,
502
00:22:38,567 --> 00:22:38,920
12 miles eastof Central London
503
00:22:38,920 --> 00:22:39,000
12 miles eastof Central London
504
00:22:41,066 --> 00:22:43,567
is a diamond in the rough.
505
00:22:48,767 --> 00:22:52,467
[Sascha] This locationis far from appealing,
506
00:22:52,467 --> 00:22:56,367
and I speak as a fanof the city of London,
507
00:22:56,367 --> 00:23:00,166
this site is not
easy on the eye.
508
00:23:00,166 --> 00:23:02,266
[narrator] But insideis a building
509
00:23:02,266 --> 00:23:04,667
very much at oddswith its setting.
510
00:23:04,667 --> 00:23:08,920
[Sascha] You have thismagnificent arched doorway,
511
00:23:08,920 --> 00:23:09,000
[Sascha] You have thismagnificent arched doorway,
512
00:23:09,000 --> 00:23:13,000
but you'd never imagine what
lays beyond that doorway.
513
00:23:13,000 --> 00:23:17,500
It's a complete contrast tothe really industrial nature
514
00:23:17,567 --> 00:23:19,767
of the surrounding area.
515
00:23:19,767 --> 00:23:23,600
The first time you walk
into this building,
516
00:23:23,667 --> 00:23:26,667
it's like walking intoone of the great cathedrals.
517
00:23:26,667 --> 00:23:28,166
It really does have
a feeling of
518
00:23:28,166 --> 00:23:30,066
grandiosity about it.
519
00:23:30,066 --> 00:23:33,567
All those ornate ironworkinteriors with vivid,
520
00:23:33,567 --> 00:23:34,900
bright colors.
521
00:23:36,367 --> 00:23:38,920
[narrator] The site playeda vital role in the growth of
522
00:23:38,920 --> 00:23:39,000
[narrator] The site playeda vital role in the growth of
523
00:23:39,367 --> 00:23:42,667
what was the largest cityin the world.
524
00:23:42,667 --> 00:23:45,367
This wasn't just
a well-designed complex,
525
00:23:45,367 --> 00:23:49,100
it also housed
a public health solution.
526
00:23:49,100 --> 00:23:52,767
[Sascha] This is reallyone of the most magnificent
527
00:23:52,767 --> 00:23:55,100
feats of Victorianengineering,
528
00:23:55,166 --> 00:23:57,100
and yet most people,
529
00:23:57,166 --> 00:23:59,000
even though it's right
under their feet,
530
00:23:59,066 --> 00:24:01,467
have never seen it
and know that much about it.
531
00:24:06,967 --> 00:24:08,920
[Peter] One day in 1989,I got a strange phone call,
532
00:24:08,920 --> 00:24:09,000
[Peter] One day in 1989,I got a strange phone call,
533
00:24:10,667 --> 00:24:12,767
it turned out froma small group of
534
00:24:12,767 --> 00:24:14,767
retired engineers
and they said,
535
00:24:14,767 --> 00:24:16,100
"We're trying to restore
one of your
536
00:24:16,166 --> 00:24:18,367
great-great-grandfather's
places,
537
00:24:18,367 --> 00:24:20,200
come and have a look."
538
00:24:20,266 --> 00:24:22,400
[narrator]
Peter Bazalgette arrived
539
00:24:22,467 --> 00:24:26,400
at a decrepit facilityleft abandoned for decades.
540
00:24:28,066 --> 00:24:31,000
[Peter] When I first cameinto this mysterious place,
541
00:24:31,066 --> 00:24:33,567
it hadn't been properly usedsince the Second World War,
542
00:24:33,567 --> 00:24:37,166
it was rusting away,full of dead pigeons.
543
00:24:37,166 --> 00:24:38,920
I was over-awed by
the grandeur of it,
544
00:24:38,920 --> 00:24:39,000
I was over-awed by
the grandeur of it,
545
00:24:39,767 --> 00:24:42,066
but sadly,
it was a decaying grandeur.
546
00:24:43,667 --> 00:24:46,667
[narrator] Neglected inthis industrial wasteland,
547
00:24:46,667 --> 00:24:50,567
Peter joined forces witha team of retired engineers
548
00:24:50,567 --> 00:24:54,600
and set about saving thisforgotten piece of heritage.
549
00:24:54,667 --> 00:24:57,166
[Peter] When I was a kidin the 1950s and '60s,
550
00:24:57,166 --> 00:24:59,066
I knew I had a very famousrelative
551
00:24:59,066 --> 00:25:00,200
from the Victorian age.
552
00:25:00,266 --> 00:25:01,467
Nobody else did.
553
00:25:01,467 --> 00:25:04,000
We didn't value
what the Victorians
554
00:25:04,000 --> 00:25:05,266
had done for us.
555
00:25:05,266 --> 00:25:06,667
That's very different today.
556
00:25:07,967 --> 00:25:08,920
[narrator] Designed by hisgreat-great grandfather,
557
00:25:08,920 --> 00:25:09,000
[narrator] Designed by hisgreat-great grandfather,
558
00:25:10,667 --> 00:25:12,367
Sir Joseph Bazalgette,
559
00:25:12,367 --> 00:25:15,467
and still boasting the biggestrotative-beam engines
560
00:25:15,467 --> 00:25:16,667
in the world,
561
00:25:16,667 --> 00:25:19,100
it was the productof a health crisis
562
00:25:19,100 --> 00:25:21,800
in mid-19th century London.
563
00:25:21,867 --> 00:25:23,500
In London's poor east side,
564
00:25:23,567 --> 00:25:26,967
construction and sanitation
were completely unregulated,
565
00:25:26,967 --> 00:25:29,767
and London became knownas a city of two halves,
566
00:25:29,767 --> 00:25:31,767
with the wealthybeing able to afford
567
00:25:31,767 --> 00:25:34,800
to escape to the cleanerair of West London.
568
00:25:34,867 --> 00:25:36,266
In the poor half,
569
00:25:36,266 --> 00:25:38,800
you had a dense population
crammed together
570
00:25:38,867 --> 00:25:38,920
in tiny houses with rats
571
00:25:38,920 --> 00:25:39,000
in tiny houses with rats
572
00:25:41,266 --> 00:25:42,900
and sewage running
between them
573
00:25:42,967 --> 00:25:45,500
down the narrowcobbled streets.
574
00:25:45,567 --> 00:25:48,100
[Sascha] You didn't haveclean running water.
575
00:25:48,166 --> 00:25:51,400
You had houses that wereinfested with vermin
576
00:25:51,467 --> 00:25:54,467
and people livingjust cheek to jowl,
577
00:25:54,467 --> 00:25:57,867
crowded with one
another in very,
578
00:25:57,867 --> 00:26:00,367
very unhealthy conditions.
579
00:26:00,367 --> 00:26:04,467
These were
the Victorian slums.
580
00:26:04,467 --> 00:26:05,667
[narrator] But soon enough,
581
00:26:05,667 --> 00:26:08,166
even those in the Westcouldn't escape
582
00:26:08,166 --> 00:26:08,920
the smell of human excrement.
583
00:26:08,920 --> 00:26:09,000
the smell of human excrement.
584
00:26:11,500 --> 00:26:13,667
The long, hot summer of 1858
585
00:26:13,667 --> 00:26:16,600
caused a horrendous
stench to emanate
586
00:26:16,667 --> 00:26:18,467
from London's mighty river.
587
00:26:18,467 --> 00:26:21,767
[narrator] It was knownas the Great Stink.
588
00:26:21,767 --> 00:26:23,166
[Dominic]
The smell began wafting
589
00:26:23,166 --> 00:26:24,367
into buildings everywhere,
590
00:26:24,367 --> 00:26:26,467
including the housesof Parliament.
591
00:26:26,467 --> 00:26:29,367
And because they still
believed in the miasma theory
592
00:26:29,367 --> 00:26:32,967
that disease was spread
by air or bad smells,
593
00:26:32,967 --> 00:26:35,967
they all thought their own
health was at serious risk.
594
00:26:37,000 --> 00:26:38,567
[narrator] Cholerahad been ravaging
595
00:26:38,567 --> 00:26:38,920
London's populationfor decades.
596
00:26:38,920 --> 00:26:39,000
London's populationfor decades.
597
00:26:41,166 --> 00:26:43,266
Sewage pumped directlyinto the river
598
00:26:43,266 --> 00:26:46,800
was spreading the disease,but through the water supply,
599
00:26:46,867 --> 00:26:49,100
not through the air,as they believed.
600
00:26:50,567 --> 00:26:53,166
Cholera is a highly
infectious disease
601
00:26:53,166 --> 00:26:55,700
that is spread through water
602
00:26:55,767 --> 00:26:58,767
that has been contaminated
by fecal matter.
603
00:26:58,767 --> 00:27:00,066
[narrator] Physician John Snow
604
00:27:00,066 --> 00:27:02,500
had made the connectionyears earlier
605
00:27:02,567 --> 00:27:05,767
and understood thiswas a water borne disease.
606
00:27:05,767 --> 00:27:08,920
But even by 1858,few accepted his findings.
607
00:27:08,920 --> 00:27:09,000
But even by 1858,few accepted his findings.
608
00:27:10,166 --> 00:27:12,200
[Alicia] These politicians
literally believed
609
00:27:12,266 --> 00:27:13,867
that they were
inhaling diseases.
610
00:27:13,867 --> 00:27:17,166
So that was really the last
straw to get them to act
611
00:27:17,166 --> 00:27:21,100
and to commission Bazalgette
to begin his project.
612
00:27:22,367 --> 00:27:24,900
[narrator] Bazalgette's taskwas to clean up the city
613
00:27:24,967 --> 00:27:26,967
and prevent the spreadof disease.
614
00:27:28,667 --> 00:27:31,500
[Alicia] Joseph Bazalgettewas the chief engineer
615
00:27:31,567 --> 00:27:33,967
of the Metropolitan
Board of Works
616
00:27:33,967 --> 00:27:38,367
and his first job in this
relatively new organization
617
00:27:38,367 --> 00:27:38,920
was to fix London'ssewage problem.
618
00:27:38,920 --> 00:27:39,000
was to fix London'ssewage problem.
619
00:27:42,367 --> 00:27:46,000
And his plan was
to run main sewers
620
00:27:46,000 --> 00:27:49,066
from the West of the cityto the East,
621
00:27:50,367 --> 00:27:53,467
and those sewers wouldrun parallel to the Thames
622
00:27:53,467 --> 00:27:56,667
but keep the sewageout of the Thames.
623
00:27:56,667 --> 00:28:00,767
[Dominic] The whole systemconsisted of 1,300 miles
624
00:28:00,767 --> 00:28:06,000
and 82 miles of West-East
intercepting sewers.
625
00:28:06,066 --> 00:28:07,066
For seven years,
626
00:28:07,066 --> 00:28:08,920
Joseph Bazalgette dug up
the whole of London.
627
00:28:08,920 --> 00:28:09,000
Joseph Bazalgette dug up
the whole of London.
628
00:28:09,967 --> 00:28:13,867
He had to cross railway lines,he had to cross canals,
629
00:28:13,867 --> 00:28:16,166
he had to redesignthe center of London.
630
00:28:16,166 --> 00:28:18,467
I imagine everybody
in those days
631
00:28:18,467 --> 00:28:22,467
was cursing Joseph Bazalgette
for disrupting London,
632
00:28:22,467 --> 00:28:24,800
but not after 1865,
633
00:28:24,867 --> 00:28:28,100
when it was all finishedand London was cleansed.
634
00:28:28,166 --> 00:28:31,867
Because his sewage system
was trailblazing.
635
00:28:31,867 --> 00:28:33,367
It was an innovation.
636
00:28:33,367 --> 00:28:35,867
It showed how a modern city
could work.
637
00:28:39,967 --> 00:28:42,000
[narrator] But howdid this building fit
638
00:28:42,066 --> 00:28:44,467
into thatrevolutionary system?
639
00:28:55,567 --> 00:28:59,400
[narrator] In response tothe Great Stink of 1858,
640
00:28:59,467 --> 00:29:02,967
Sir Joseph Bazalgette wastasked with cleaning up
641
00:29:02,967 --> 00:29:05,900
London's Thames Riverby revolutionizing
642
00:29:05,967 --> 00:29:07,767
the city's sewage system.
643
00:29:08,800 --> 00:29:12,100
He devised and had built
a network of sewers
644
00:29:12,166 --> 00:29:15,967
that carried the city's
wastewater to two vast pumping
645
00:29:15,967 --> 00:29:17,880
and filtration systems,either side of the Thames,
646
00:29:17,880 --> 00:29:18,000
and filtration systems,either side of the Thames,
647
00:29:19,000 --> 00:29:22,000
just east of the metropolitanconurbation.
648
00:29:22,066 --> 00:29:24,100
[narrator] One of thosewas the pumping station
649
00:29:24,100 --> 00:29:27,000
here at Crossness.
650
00:29:27,066 --> 00:29:33,066
Well, this flywheel
belongs to a rotative
steam-beam engine.
651
00:29:33,066 --> 00:29:34,767
In fact, there arefour in this building,
652
00:29:34,767 --> 00:29:37,567
the four largest everbuilt ever in the world.
653
00:29:37,567 --> 00:29:38,800
And they're namedafter the members
654
00:29:38,867 --> 00:29:41,767
of the British Royal Family,Queen Victoria,
655
00:29:41,767 --> 00:29:44,867
Prince Albert, Alexandra,one of their daughters,
656
00:29:44,867 --> 00:29:46,800
and Bertie, one of their sons.
657
00:29:48,166 --> 00:29:51,100
[Dominic] The four massiveengines at Crossness
658
00:29:51,166 --> 00:29:55,467
pumped sewage into a reservoirthat held 25 million gallons.
659
00:29:55,467 --> 00:29:58,166
The sewage was then
released with the ebb tide,
660
00:29:58,166 --> 00:30:00,166
so it flowed
safely out to sea.
661
00:30:02,066 --> 00:30:05,567
[narrator] The openingceremony in 1865
662
00:30:05,567 --> 00:30:08,567
was held at Crossnesswith great pomp.
663
00:30:09,967 --> 00:30:11,667
[Sascha] The pumpingstation became
664
00:30:11,667 --> 00:30:15,266
known asthe Cathedral of Sewage
665
00:30:15,266 --> 00:30:17,880
and in a fashiontypical of ceremonies
666
00:30:17,880 --> 00:30:18,000
and in a fashiontypical of ceremonies
667
00:30:19,667 --> 00:30:22,667
in the capital ofimperial Britain,
668
00:30:22,667 --> 00:30:25,767
it was opened witha grand ceremony,
669
00:30:25,767 --> 00:30:29,400
possibly the most
lavish meal ever served
670
00:30:29,467 --> 00:30:31,767
inside a sewage facility.
671
00:30:32,867 --> 00:30:36,066
Just look at this,
672
00:30:36,066 --> 00:30:38,867
some of the finest Victorian
wrought-ironwork
673
00:30:38,867 --> 00:30:40,700
ever commissioned.
674
00:30:40,767 --> 00:30:43,467
And it shows one thingabout the Victorians,
675
00:30:43,467 --> 00:30:45,567
immensely proudof public works,
676
00:30:45,567 --> 00:30:47,667
this was a buildingessentially
677
00:30:47,667 --> 00:30:47,880
for pumping excrement.
678
00:30:47,880 --> 00:30:48,000
for pumping excrement.
679
00:30:50,767 --> 00:30:52,000
[narrator] For 80 years,
680
00:30:52,000 --> 00:30:54,800
the beam engines atCrossness turned.
681
00:30:54,867 --> 00:30:56,667
But afterthe Second World War,
682
00:30:56,667 --> 00:31:00,066
more advanced enginesrendered them redundant.
683
00:31:00,066 --> 00:31:02,367
But thanks to a groupof enthusiasts,
684
00:31:02,367 --> 00:31:05,567
Crossness would finda new lease of life.
685
00:31:05,567 --> 00:31:06,900
[Alicia]
With all of the colors
686
00:31:06,967 --> 00:31:08,867
and intricate metal design,
687
00:31:08,867 --> 00:31:11,467
it's clear that a lot of
work went
688
00:31:11,467 --> 00:31:13,066
into this restoration project.
689
00:31:14,600 --> 00:31:17,367
[Sascha] The trustdecided to intervene
690
00:31:17,367 --> 00:31:17,880
and restore partof the building
691
00:31:17,880 --> 00:31:18,000
and restore partof the building
692
00:31:19,867 --> 00:31:23,266
and also to restore
one of the engines,
693
00:31:23,266 --> 00:31:25,767
and now it canbe seen operating
694
00:31:25,767 --> 00:31:28,000
in all its former glory.
695
00:31:28,000 --> 00:31:31,266
[Peter] Thirty years afterI first walked in here,
696
00:31:31,266 --> 00:31:34,100
and thanks tothe extraordinary efforts
697
00:31:34,166 --> 00:31:36,600
of the members ofThe Crossness Engines Trust,
698
00:31:36,667 --> 00:31:40,567
we now have a living museum,
a living steam museum.
699
00:31:40,567 --> 00:31:43,200
[Peter] And if you look atthis magnificent beam arm
700
00:31:43,266 --> 00:31:46,100
of this restored engine,look at the way it's painted,
701
00:31:46,166 --> 00:31:47,880
look at the majesty of it.
702
00:31:47,880 --> 00:31:48,000
look at the majesty of it.
703
00:31:48,166 --> 00:31:50,667
You can tell that today
we really appreciate
704
00:31:50,667 --> 00:31:54,367
what the Victorians did
and how they really created
705
00:31:54,367 --> 00:31:56,900
modern society that we
still rely on today.
706
00:32:02,767 --> 00:32:05,767
[narrator] While this pumpingstation has been restored,
707
00:32:05,767 --> 00:32:10,000
parts of Bazalgette's systemnever went out of use.
708
00:32:10,066 --> 00:32:12,900
So they're building
a new super sewer,
709
00:32:12,967 --> 00:32:16,367
not to replace but to
complement Joseph's system.
710
00:32:16,367 --> 00:32:17,880
[Sascha] That the interceptingsewers
711
00:32:17,880 --> 00:32:18,000
[Sascha] That the interceptingsewers
712
00:32:18,266 --> 00:32:21,500
are still in use
150 years later,
713
00:32:21,567 --> 00:32:24,567
it's really a testament
to the overall
714
00:32:24,567 --> 00:32:26,467
build quality of the system
715
00:32:26,467 --> 00:32:28,300
as it was originally
constructed.
716
00:32:32,900 --> 00:32:35,100
[narrator] 60 milessouth of Zagreb,
717
00:32:35,166 --> 00:32:37,667
in the wooded hillsof Petrova Gora,
718
00:32:37,667 --> 00:32:41,066
a dazzling building sitshigh on a mountain peak.
719
00:32:46,367 --> 00:32:47,880
[Rob] The building almostswallows you whole.
720
00:32:47,880 --> 00:32:48,000
[Rob] The building almostswallows you whole.
721
00:32:49,166 --> 00:32:52,500
It's simply otherworldly.
722
00:32:52,567 --> 00:32:53,867
[Michele] It looks modern.
723
00:32:53,867 --> 00:32:55,667
It makes you
think of something
724
00:32:55,667 --> 00:32:57,166
that would be in a city.
725
00:32:57,166 --> 00:33:00,100
But this is in the mountains,in the middle of nowhere.
726
00:33:01,367 --> 00:33:02,900
[narrator] As you venture in,
727
00:33:02,967 --> 00:33:07,800
you realize it is just asmodern and abstract inside.
728
00:33:07,867 --> 00:33:10,667
[Lynette] This is somethingthat you merge into
729
00:33:10,667 --> 00:33:14,300
as you would come into
a place of worship.
730
00:33:15,567 --> 00:33:16,967
[Rob] Although therearen't any windows,
731
00:33:16,967 --> 00:33:17,880
it's surprisingly
light inside.
732
00:33:17,880 --> 00:33:18,000
it's surprisingly
light inside.
733
00:33:20,000 --> 00:33:22,667
The offset slicesallow streams of light
734
00:33:22,667 --> 00:33:25,567
to flood in from above.
735
00:33:25,567 --> 00:33:28,600
[Michele] It's not someabandoned industrial works,
736
00:33:28,667 --> 00:33:31,867
but it's on anindustrial scale almost.
737
00:33:31,867 --> 00:33:34,767
It's just this really
perplexing building
738
00:33:34,767 --> 00:33:36,367
that looks out of place.
739
00:33:37,767 --> 00:33:40,467
[Rob] These vastconcrete curves
740
00:33:40,467 --> 00:33:42,767
covered in stainless steel,
741
00:33:42,767 --> 00:33:46,767
spiraling up a 120 feetinto the sky
742
00:33:46,767 --> 00:33:47,880
make for
an extraordinary landmark.
743
00:33:47,880 --> 00:33:48,000
make for
an extraordinary landmark.
744
00:33:50,867 --> 00:33:53,066
[narrator] But whatwas its purpose
745
00:33:53,066 --> 00:33:55,867
and why has sucha striking landmark
746
00:33:55,867 --> 00:33:58,266
seemingly been left to ruin?
747
00:34:01,467 --> 00:34:04,500
[narrator] Cedomir Studenis a local historian
748
00:34:04,567 --> 00:34:08,867
and custodian of thisremarkable complex.
749
00:34:08,867 --> 00:34:10,533
[Cedomir speaking Croatian]
750
00:34:10,533 --> 00:34:12,300
[translator] As you can seefrom the configurationof the building,
751
00:34:12,367 --> 00:34:14,700
this was a very ambitiousand futuristic project.
752
00:34:17,300 --> 00:34:17,880
There are 11 floors in total.
753
00:34:17,880 --> 00:34:18,000
There are 11 floors in total.
754
00:34:19,667 --> 00:34:23,667
Downstairs, under the ground,there is a concert hall,
755
00:34:23,667 --> 00:34:26,000
which can host up to1,000 people.
756
00:34:27,767 --> 00:34:30,467
On the floors abovewere educational
757
00:34:30,467 --> 00:34:31,867
and exhibition spaces,
758
00:34:33,367 --> 00:34:36,467
and it did all thatwith multimedia tools,
759
00:34:36,467 --> 00:34:39,266
which made ita trailblazer of its kind.
760
00:34:41,367 --> 00:34:43,867
[narrator] The reasonfor its existence
761
00:34:43,867 --> 00:34:47,400
can be unearthed fromthe woods it overlooks.
762
00:34:47,467 --> 00:34:47,880
[Rob] This hugetowering building
763
00:34:47,880 --> 00:34:48,000
[Rob] This hugetowering building
764
00:34:50,166 --> 00:34:51,700
dominates the hillside,
765
00:34:51,767 --> 00:34:54,567
but it's not the only
structure here.
766
00:34:54,567 --> 00:34:55,967
When you start exploring,
767
00:34:55,967 --> 00:34:58,567
you come across somemore abandoned buildings
768
00:34:58,567 --> 00:35:01,100
very deep in the woods.
769
00:35:01,166 --> 00:35:03,400
These buildings are
scattered about,
770
00:35:03,467 --> 00:35:05,767
and when you go inside,
771
00:35:05,767 --> 00:35:09,166
it's clear that peopleonce lived here.
772
00:35:09,166 --> 00:35:11,900
[narrator] Those thatfilled these empty cabins
773
00:35:11,967 --> 00:35:15,367
were engaged in a desperatefight for survival,
774
00:35:15,367 --> 00:35:17,700
part of an ethnicconflict that dates
775
00:35:17,767 --> 00:35:17,880
back to the interwar period.
776
00:35:17,880 --> 00:35:18,000
back to the interwar period.
777
00:35:19,767 --> 00:35:22,567
Between the First
and Second World Wars,
778
00:35:22,567 --> 00:35:24,367
there was constant fighting
779
00:35:24,367 --> 00:35:26,300
amongst the variousethnic groups
780
00:35:26,367 --> 00:35:28,266
that comprised Yugoslavia.
781
00:35:29,567 --> 00:35:31,800
[narrator] At the forefrontof the power struggle
782
00:35:31,867 --> 00:35:34,867
were the right wingfascist group, the Ustasa.
783
00:35:36,100 --> 00:35:40,800
[Lynette] The Croatian Ustasabelieved that Croats
784
00:35:40,867 --> 00:35:47,266
were ethnically superior
to especially Serbs.
785
00:35:47,266 --> 00:35:47,880
[Michele] ManyCroat nationalists
786
00:35:47,880 --> 00:35:48,000
[Michele] ManyCroat nationalists
787
00:35:49,100 --> 00:35:50,567
supported the Ustasa
788
00:35:50,567 --> 00:35:53,567
because they believed
that this was a ticket
789
00:35:53,567 --> 00:35:56,000
to independence from Serbia.
790
00:35:57,467 --> 00:35:59,667
[narrator] When the Nazisinvaded Yugoslavia
791
00:35:59,667 --> 00:36:04,066
in April 1941, the Ustasawere natural allies.
792
00:36:05,467 --> 00:36:09,467
The Nazis were
very happy to contribute
793
00:36:09,467 --> 00:36:13,567
to the disintegration of
the Kingdom of Yugoslavia
794
00:36:13,567 --> 00:36:16,967
and to take the Croatian part
795
00:36:16,967 --> 00:36:17,880
and turn it intoa puppet state
796
00:36:17,880 --> 00:36:18,000
and turn it intoa puppet state
797
00:36:19,867 --> 00:36:22,767
that was ruled by the Ustasa.
798
00:36:24,700 --> 00:36:26,367
[narrator]
This fascist alliance
799
00:36:26,367 --> 00:36:28,500
wouldn't go unchallenged.
800
00:36:28,567 --> 00:36:30,667
But how doesthe striking tower
801
00:36:30,667 --> 00:36:33,500
on the hill fitinto this story?
802
00:36:43,200 --> 00:36:46,200
[narrator] In the shadowof a conspicuous landmark
803
00:36:46,266 --> 00:36:48,867
are the remains ofa partisan stronghold
804
00:36:48,867 --> 00:36:50,467
buried in the woods,
805
00:36:50,467 --> 00:36:53,467
set up to fightthe Nazi-backed Ustasa.
806
00:36:53,467 --> 00:36:55,367
[Cedomir speaking Croatian]
807
00:36:55,367 --> 00:36:57,166
[translator] We are nowarriving at a place
808
00:36:57,166 --> 00:37:00,467
which played an extremelyimportant role in the history
809
00:37:00,467 --> 00:37:03,200
of the resistance duringthe Second World War.
810
00:37:05,266 --> 00:37:05,760
[narrator]
Those behind it
811
00:37:05,760 --> 00:37:06,000
[narrator]
Those behind it
812
00:37:06,567 --> 00:37:09,100
were the Kordun PartisanDetachment,
813
00:37:09,166 --> 00:37:12,066
part of the People'sLiberation Army of Yugoslavia,
814
00:37:12,066 --> 00:37:14,467
and at the helm wasone of history's
815
00:37:14,467 --> 00:37:17,000
most notorious leaders.
816
00:37:17,000 --> 00:37:21,367
It was led by a figure who
would become a major player
817
00:37:21,367 --> 00:37:25,867
in 20th century politics,
Josip Broz,
818
00:37:25,867 --> 00:37:28,100
who was also known as Tito.
819
00:37:28,100 --> 00:37:32,100
He's a communistand envisions a Yugoslavia
820
00:37:32,166 --> 00:37:35,567
that is going to share
that political ideology.
821
00:37:35,567 --> 00:37:35,760
[narrator]
To overthrow the Ustasa,
822
00:37:35,760 --> 00:37:36,000
[narrator]
To overthrow the Ustasa,
823
00:37:37,767 --> 00:37:39,367
Tito needed an army
824
00:37:39,367 --> 00:37:42,600
and secure basesto operate from.
825
00:37:42,667 --> 00:37:44,233
[Cedomir speaking Croatian]
826
00:37:44,233 --> 00:37:46,400
[translator] We are atthe Central PartisanHospital complex.
827
00:37:48,066 --> 00:37:52,200
There was the surgery,there were hospital wards,
828
00:37:52,266 --> 00:37:54,867
a dental surgery, a kitchen.
829
00:37:54,867 --> 00:37:56,867
Up there was the watchtower.
830
00:37:56,867 --> 00:37:59,800
These buildings providedan entire infrastructure.
831
00:38:03,000 --> 00:38:04,667
[narrator]
Using guerrilla tactics,
832
00:38:04,667 --> 00:38:05,760
they ambushed the Ustasa fromtheir bases deep in the woods,
833
00:38:05,760 --> 00:38:06,000
they ambushed the Ustasa fromtheir bases deep in the woods,
834
00:38:09,166 --> 00:38:12,300
while recruiting moreSerbs to join their cause.
835
00:38:12,367 --> 00:38:13,500
[Cedomir speaking Croatian]
836
00:38:13,500 --> 00:38:15,567
[translator] In this regionof Petrova Gora,
837
00:38:15,567 --> 00:38:17,900
there were15 active detachments.
838
00:38:19,867 --> 00:38:22,000
The Kordun PartisanDetachments
839
00:38:22,066 --> 00:38:24,100
were mainly made upof local villagers.
840
00:38:25,800 --> 00:38:27,767
[narrator] For the partisansto survive,
841
00:38:27,767 --> 00:38:32,200
it was essential theirstronghold remained hidden.
842
00:38:32,266 --> 00:38:33,133
[Cedomir speaking Croatian]
843
00:38:33,166 --> 00:38:34,667
[translator]
Here is an example,
844
00:38:34,667 --> 00:38:35,760
a field lavatory thatlooks like a toilet
845
00:38:35,760 --> 00:38:36,000
a field lavatory thatlooks like a toilet
846
00:38:40,367 --> 00:38:43,500
but can be speedilydismantled,
847
00:38:43,567 --> 00:38:47,867
opened up and entered into
848
00:38:47,867 --> 00:38:50,300
and used to hidewounded soldiers inside.
849
00:38:52,367 --> 00:38:55,266
[narrator] This 30-buildingstrong hospital
850
00:38:55,266 --> 00:38:58,266
masked a network ofunderground bunkers
851
00:38:58,266 --> 00:39:01,467
capable of shelteringhundreds of soldiers.
852
00:39:01,467 --> 00:39:02,600
It wasn't long, though,
853
00:39:02,667 --> 00:39:05,266
before the Ustasahad the stronghold of
854
00:39:05,266 --> 00:39:05,760
Petrova Gora firmlyin their sights.
855
00:39:05,760 --> 00:39:06,000
Petrova Gora firmlyin their sights.
856
00:39:08,467 --> 00:39:10,400
In early April 1942,
857
00:39:10,467 --> 00:39:13,600
there was a sudden
breakthrough of defenses.
858
00:39:13,667 --> 00:39:16,800
The Ustasa forcesstormed multiple
859
00:39:16,867 --> 00:39:19,567
partisan positionsaround Petrova Gora.
860
00:39:19,567 --> 00:39:23,066
Given that these
ethnic Serbs only had
861
00:39:23,066 --> 00:39:25,367
crude weapons and pitchforks,
862
00:39:25,367 --> 00:39:28,200
given that they were going
against armed soldiers,
863
00:39:28,266 --> 00:39:31,266
they really stood no chance.
864
00:39:31,266 --> 00:39:32,533
[Cedomir speaking Croatian]
865
00:39:32,533 --> 00:39:35,300
[translator] The cruel revengeof the Ustasa regime
866
00:39:35,367 --> 00:39:35,760
resulted in one-third of
867
00:39:35,760 --> 00:39:36,000
resulted in one-third of
868
00:39:36,767 --> 00:39:39,266
Kordun's residentsgetting killed,
869
00:39:39,266 --> 00:39:41,767
98% of whom were Serbs.
870
00:39:44,100 --> 00:39:45,767
[narrator] The Ustasacontinued
871
00:39:45,767 --> 00:39:46,867
their vicious attempts
872
00:39:46,867 --> 00:39:49,467
to cleanse the regionof Serbs,
873
00:39:49,467 --> 00:39:52,000
yet this hospitalwas never discovered.
874
00:39:52,066 --> 00:39:56,166
And as the tide of war turnedagainst the Nazis, Tito,
875
00:39:56,166 --> 00:39:59,000
backed by the Britishand his communist allies,
876
00:39:59,000 --> 00:40:00,767
emerged victorious.
877
00:40:00,767 --> 00:40:04,100
Tito's prestige as the man
878
00:40:04,100 --> 00:40:05,760
who led the opposition
to the Nazis
879
00:40:05,760 --> 00:40:06,000
who led the opposition
to the Nazis
880
00:40:07,266 --> 00:40:11,800
and to the Ustasa made him
a national hero across
881
00:40:11,867 --> 00:40:13,700
what was Yugoslavia.
882
00:40:14,967 --> 00:40:17,000
[narrator]
Under Tito's firm grip,
883
00:40:17,066 --> 00:40:19,500
Yugoslavia wasbrought back together,
884
00:40:19,567 --> 00:40:22,066
and for many yearsthere was relative peace
885
00:40:22,066 --> 00:40:24,100
between the ethnic groups.
886
00:40:24,166 --> 00:40:27,500
This structure was builtas a symbolic phoenix
887
00:40:27,567 --> 00:40:29,967
rising from the ashes of war.
888
00:40:30,600 --> 00:40:31,700
[Cedomir speaking Croatian]
889
00:40:31,767 --> 00:40:33,300
[translator] Tito wasin favor of erecting
890
00:40:33,367 --> 00:40:35,760
a memorial in this place
891
00:40:35,760 --> 00:40:36,000
a memorial in this place
892
00:40:37,567 --> 00:40:39,667
because he wanted toexpress his gratitude
893
00:40:39,667 --> 00:40:43,567
to the local people for theirsacrifice during the war.
894
00:40:45,700 --> 00:40:47,066
[Rob]
The stainless steel panels
895
00:40:47,066 --> 00:40:49,367
are hugely reflective,
896
00:40:49,367 --> 00:40:53,967
and this effect symbolizes
light overcoming darkness.
897
00:40:55,000 --> 00:40:58,367
Within the structure wasoriginally a museum,
898
00:40:58,367 --> 00:41:00,667
which housed hundredsof documents,
899
00:41:00,667 --> 00:41:04,000
relics and artifacts
related to the battle
900
00:41:04,000 --> 00:41:05,760
and the history of
the ethnic Serbians'
901
00:41:05,760 --> 00:41:06,000
and the history of
the ethnic Serbians'
902
00:41:06,367 --> 00:41:07,867
struggles in the region.
903
00:41:09,800 --> 00:41:13,367
[narrator] But just beforeit opened in 1981,
904
00:41:13,367 --> 00:41:17,567
Tito died and with himthe peace he had brought.
905
00:41:17,567 --> 00:41:22,367
Ethnic divisions resurfaced,and in 1991, war erupted.
906
00:41:22,367 --> 00:41:25,100
With the onset
of the Yugoslav Wars,
907
00:41:25,166 --> 00:41:27,266
the monument fallsinto disrepair,
908
00:41:27,266 --> 00:41:29,667
it's looted, it is defaced.
909
00:41:29,667 --> 00:41:32,100
So it has a really sad ending.
910
00:41:36,367 --> 00:41:40,000
[narrator] Today, Yugoslaviais a distant memory,
911
00:41:40,000 --> 00:41:42,600
but the monumentthat still stands here
912
00:41:42,667 --> 00:41:45,600
tells a story that mustnot be forgotten.
913
00:41:47,467 --> 00:41:49,867
[Cedomir speaking Croatian]
914
00:41:49,867 --> 00:41:51,266
[translator]
This devastated monument
915
00:41:51,266 --> 00:41:53,166
representsa particular significance
916
00:41:53,166 --> 00:41:57,166
of this place in the heartsof the local population.
917
00:41:57,166 --> 00:41:59,900
It reminds us of a time whenpeople fought against those
918
00:41:59,967 --> 00:42:03,500
who had lost their humanity.
80120
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