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*
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Narrator: a kentucky ghost town
Caught in the crossfire.
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Meigs: in some cases,
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People were literally killed
In these fights.
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There was always conflict.
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00:00:15,333 --> 00:00:16,533
Narrator: in japan,
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Creepers invade a scene
Wrecked by calamity.
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Auerbach: the decoration here
Is fantastic --
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This place must have been
Absolutely amazing.
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Narrator: and in scotland,
Fragments of a bridge foundation
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Narrator: and in scotland,
Fragments of a bridge foundation
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Are all that remains
Of a terrifying disaster.
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Barratt: this just shook up
The whole of the u.K.
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*
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Narrator: decaying relics.
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Ruins of lost worlds.
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Sites haunted by the past.
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Their secrets waiting
To be revealed.
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Their secrets waiting
To be revealed.
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-- captions by vitac --
Www.Vitac.Com
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Captions paid for by
Discovery communications
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*
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The remote backwoods
Of harlan county, kentucky,
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Hide the remnants
Of a grand-looking town.
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*
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Meigs: this was
A confident town, a proud town.
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Meigs: this was
A confident town, a proud town.
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There's buildings here
Made of beautiful stone.
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These are buildings made nicer
Than they needed to be.
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People wanted to get here.
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That was something
That it was drawing them.
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Narrator: scattered ruins point
To an industrial purpose.
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Jerram: one of the more
Impressive derelict sites
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Is this big house
With a huge chimney.
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Meigs: it's hard to know what
It is exactly,
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Meigs: it's hard to know what
It is exactly,
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Just looming over
These abandoned railroad tracks.
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Narrator: the operation
Is even more extensive
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Below the surface.
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Meigs: you can see these tunnel
Entrances --
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They look like
New york's lincoln tunnel
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Or holland tunnel.
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Narrator: among these relics
Lie signs of catastrophe.
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Narrator: among these relics
Lie signs of catastrophe.
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So what spelt the end
For this once-imposing town?
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*
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This deserted settlement
Of a thousand homes
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Is lynch, kentucky.
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It dates back to
The early 20th century.
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With its wide streets
And large municipal buildings,
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Lynch was once one of
The richest towns in the state.
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Lynch was once one of
The richest towns in the state.
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Michael o'bradovich worked here.
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This town was so big
And so impressive
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That people were coming
From chicago and new york --
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It was impressive.
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Narrator: the town's grandeur
Belies the grim reality
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Of what was going on beneath it,
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But he remembers
Its former elegance fondly.
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O'bradovich: we who live here
Call this "The big store."
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All of this here in the front
Was women's apparel
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All of this here in the front
Was women's apparel
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Or men's apparel.
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Over on this side,
There was a diner.
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In my time, soda shop.
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On the far end over there was
Sporting goods and homegoods.
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Narrator: this department store
Was constructed in 1917.
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Within eight years,
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A large town had been built
Around it, powered by
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An enormous, state-of-the-art
Generating station.
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An enormous, state-of-the-art
Generating station.
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No expense was spared to build
This surprisingly-grand place
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In the middle of nowhere.
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The first indication
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00:04:13,067 --> 00:04:17,067
As to who built this place
Sits with its owners.
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*
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Meigs: u.S. Steel bought up
Hundreds of acres
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Under black mountain,
In this part of kentucky.
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Narrator: a further hint
To why this place is here
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Is the tell-tale
Date of purchase --
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Is the tell-tale
Date of purchase --
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The middle of
The first world war.
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Meigs: in 1917, the demand
For steel was skyrocketing --
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You had all the armaments
That were being used in the war,
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Everything was made of steel.
Ships were being built,
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You know, rail cars
Are being built.
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Narrator: even though there's
No iron ore nearby, u.S. Steel
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Invested millions of dollars
Into these kentucky backwoods.
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Jerram: the real thing
That made lynch
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Was actually
Underneath the town,
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And that was black gold --
Coal.
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Meigs: lynch was created
For one reason,
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And that was to provide
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A reliable and massive supply
Of coal
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To the country's leading
Steel producer, u.S. Steel.
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Jerram: this part of
The appalachian mountains
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Is very, very rich in
Carboniferous coal.
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This is a famous coal deposit
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This is a famous coal deposit
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That stretches
All along north america
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And has been mined
For many, many years.
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The thing that makes the coal
At lynch so special
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Is it's low in sulfur,
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So it's very good
For making steel.
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These turned out to be some
Of the wealthiest coal mines
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In the country.
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Narrator: as the son of a miner,
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Nick sturgill knows the hazards
That lie below ground here.
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This is portal 31,
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This is portal 31,
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Once part of the largest
Coal complex in the world.
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Sturgill: portal 31,
Even by today's standards,
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Is enormous.
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The north heading of portal 31
Goes approximately 13 miles.
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The east heading actually goes
Into virginia
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Just a little ways.
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Narrator: back in the 1930s,
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Extraction continued apace,
Despite the risks.
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00:06:30,000 --> 00:06:30,300
Extraction continued apace,
Despite the risks.
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Meigs: no matter how well
A mine is run,
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00:06:33,867 --> 00:06:39,067
It's still very dangerous
And difficult work.
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The coal company also wanted
To showcase,
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00:06:40,967 --> 00:06:43,900
To show off
Their high standards.
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They also stressed safety a lot.
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Narrator:
They even named this place
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After the father of mine safety,
Thomas lynch.
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Meigs: they wanted to counteract
This image
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That mining was this terrible,
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00:07:00,000 --> 00:07:01,000
That mining was this terrible,
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00:07:02,333 --> 00:07:05,633
Dangerous occupation
Where people were exploited.
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Narrator: it worked.
Lynch attracted workers
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From all over the world.
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With a german mother
And montenegran father,
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00:07:16,433 --> 00:07:20,233
Former mine manager
Michael o'bradovich's own family
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00:07:20,233 --> 00:07:23,233
Is typical of
Those who flocked here.
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O'bradovich: in its heyday,
Lynch had around 10,000 people.
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00:07:30,000 --> 00:07:30,533
O'bradovich: in its heyday,
Lynch had around 10,000 people.
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00:07:30,533 --> 00:07:31,000
With all those
Different nationalities,
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Most of the families here
Had 5, 6, 7, 8 kids.
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Narrator: the company invested
Heavily to build this place.
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They knew that there was
So much coal here,
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It was worth any expense
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00:07:49,667 --> 00:07:52,100
To build the infrastructure
To get it out.
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Narrator:
Everything had to be shipped in
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By train and mule wagons.
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By train and mule wagons.
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00:08:00,100 --> 00:08:01,000
Jerram: all of a sudden, you've
Got a big town with schools,
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With churches, with hotels,
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With whatever you wanted,
In the space of 7-8 years.
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Narrator:
Its imposing post office,
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Individually designed houses,
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And wide boulevards
Were unrivaled,
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00:08:18,733 --> 00:08:23,200
But the main objective
Was to dig for coal.
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They engineered the town
To move the coal
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As efficiently as possible.
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They built a structure
Called a tipple --
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They built a structure
Called a tipple --
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This is like a giant bin
That holds coal
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And then loads it
Onto rail cars.
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They built the biggest tipple
In the world.
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Jerram: this tipple could handle
15,000 tons of coal a day.
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Lynch was actually
World famous --
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It held the record
Where miners produced
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Nearly 13,000 tons of coal
In one single nine-hour shift.
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Now, that's pretty
Impressive statistics.
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Now, that's pretty
Impressive statistics.
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00:09:03,167 --> 00:09:05,133
Narrator: but the miners
Were dissatisfied
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00:09:05,133 --> 00:09:08,467
With the low wages
And the risks.
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00:09:10,267 --> 00:09:13,600
O'bradovich: coal dust
Is so fine and so volatile
170
00:09:13,600 --> 00:09:17,800
That it can combust with
Any little spark.
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00:09:17,800 --> 00:09:20,800
It can catch on fire,
Cause an explosion.
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And at one point
In the history of this building,
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They actually stopped using it
Because there was so much dust
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Being created,
And some spontaneous combustion
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00:09:30,000 --> 00:09:31,000
Being created,
And some spontaneous combustion
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00:09:33,400 --> 00:09:36,233
With that dust
That created some issues.
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*
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Narrator: inside the mine
Was even more deadly.
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Sturgill:
The leading cause of death
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Here at portal 31
Was by roof falls,
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00:09:48,767 --> 00:09:54,433
And, believe it or not,
A lot of coal cart accidents,
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Of men being run over or pinned
Against the rib by a coal cart.
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00:10:00,000 --> 00:10:01,000
Of men being run over or pinned
Against the rib by a coal cart.
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00:10:01,000 --> 00:10:02,633
The air will kill you --
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00:10:02,633 --> 00:10:06,567
Miners could contract
Black lung.
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00:10:06,567 --> 00:10:09,167
There's a lot of different ways
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00:10:09,167 --> 00:10:13,100
That a man or woman
Can perish in a mine.
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00:10:14,500 --> 00:10:17,100
Narrator: the owners of lynch
Refuse to compromise
189
00:10:17,100 --> 00:10:19,167
The efficiency
Of their production,
190
00:10:19,167 --> 00:10:23,000
But the miners were gearing up
For a fight.
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00:10:24,300 --> 00:10:33,133
*
192
00:10:33,133 --> 00:10:36,733
Narrator: by the 1930s,
The coal miners of lynch
193
00:10:36,733 --> 00:10:38,700
In harlan county, kentucky,
194
00:10:38,700 --> 00:10:40,467
Were growing restless.
195
00:10:40,467 --> 00:10:43,367
No amount of grandiose
Town planning
196
00:10:43,367 --> 00:10:48,867
Could make up for the dangers
And low wages of mining.
197
00:10:48,867 --> 00:10:53,067
Meigs: there was always conflict
Between miners and owners,
198
00:10:53,067 --> 00:10:53,956
And their owners often respond
To that conflict
199
00:10:53,956 --> 00:10:54,000
And their owners often respond
To that conflict
200
00:10:55,400 --> 00:10:58,633
With overwhelming force.
201
00:10:58,633 --> 00:11:03,100
Narrator: skirmishes broke out
Across harlan county.
202
00:11:03,100 --> 00:11:07,867
Meigs: this is where battles
Between the coal companies
203
00:11:07,867 --> 00:11:11,167
And the miners came to a head.
204
00:11:11,167 --> 00:11:14,700
We had these clashes between
Miners fighting for more rights
205
00:11:14,700 --> 00:11:19,733
And owners trying to keep up
Production and keep wages low.
206
00:11:19,733 --> 00:11:22,767
*
207
00:11:22,767 --> 00:11:23,956
Narrator:
In lynch, rumor has it
208
00:11:23,956 --> 00:11:24,000
Narrator:
In lynch, rumor has it
209
00:11:25,100 --> 00:11:28,167
That the violence
Didn't end there.
210
00:11:28,167 --> 00:11:30,367
One eyewitness told
Nick sturgill
211
00:11:30,367 --> 00:11:36,067
What she believes
She saw back in the 1930s.
212
00:11:36,067 --> 00:11:37,533
Sturgill: she would be sitting
Out on the porch
213
00:11:37,533 --> 00:11:42,500
And company officials would walk
Or ride up black mountain
214
00:11:42,500 --> 00:11:46,700
With known union members
Or union sympathizers,
215
00:11:46,700 --> 00:11:49,300
What have you,
And after a few minutes,
216
00:11:49,300 --> 00:11:51,367
She would hear gunshots.
217
00:11:51,367 --> 00:11:53,400
And a few minutes later,
218
00:11:53,400 --> 00:11:53,956
The company officials
Would come down the mountain,
219
00:11:53,956 --> 00:11:54,000
The company officials
Would come down the mountain,
220
00:11:56,600 --> 00:11:58,600
And they would come alone.
221
00:11:58,600 --> 00:12:01,067
Narrator: no one knows for sure
What happened
222
00:12:01,067 --> 00:12:03,133
In those troubled times.
223
00:12:03,133 --> 00:12:06,867
The mine owners eventually
Quashed the discord
224
00:12:06,867 --> 00:12:09,733
And the enormous underground
Complex at lynch
225
00:12:09,733 --> 00:12:14,100
Continued to produce coal
For many more years.
226
00:12:14,100 --> 00:12:16,300
Sturgill: total mileage of
Tunnels in this mine,
227
00:12:16,300 --> 00:12:18,167
If I had to guess,
228
00:12:18,167 --> 00:12:23,500
Would be upwards or exceed
A thousand miles.
229
00:12:23,500 --> 00:12:23,956
During the height of
U.S. Steel's operations
230
00:12:23,956 --> 00:12:24,000
During the height of
U.S. Steel's operations
231
00:12:26,900 --> 00:12:29,767
Here at portal 31,
On any given day,
232
00:12:29,767 --> 00:12:34,933
You would have approximately
1,500 men on one shift.
233
00:12:34,933 --> 00:12:38,300
Narrator: but this boom time
Could not last forever.
234
00:12:41,167 --> 00:12:47,267
The last piece of coal left
The colossal portal 31 in 1963.
235
00:12:47,267 --> 00:12:49,833
And the other mines in lynch
Closed
236
00:12:49,833 --> 00:12:53,400
During the following decades.
237
00:12:53,400 --> 00:12:53,956
Sturgill:
U.S. Steel pulled out of here
238
00:12:53,956 --> 00:12:54,000
Sturgill:
U.S. Steel pulled out of here
239
00:12:55,433 --> 00:12:59,133
Simply because
They pretty much mined out
240
00:12:59,133 --> 00:13:02,567
What they could mine easily
And economically,
241
00:13:02,567 --> 00:13:08,133
But also because, you know,
This coal was needed for steel.
242
00:13:08,133 --> 00:13:11,100
Well, you know,
In the last few decades,
243
00:13:11,100 --> 00:13:15,067
Steel is really not in demand
Like it used to be
244
00:13:15,067 --> 00:13:19,133
During world wars or during
The industrial revolution
245
00:13:19,133 --> 00:13:22,600
Or the building of skyscrapers
Or anything like that,
246
00:13:22,600 --> 00:13:23,956
So this grade of coal is just
Not sought after as it once was.
247
00:13:23,956 --> 00:13:24,000
So this grade of coal is just
Not sought after as it once was.
248
00:13:30,067 --> 00:13:34,433
By the late '80s,
The economics were changing,
249
00:13:34,433 --> 00:13:38,333
And the mines
Eventually shut down.
250
00:13:38,333 --> 00:13:40,767
Sturgill:
In those 46 and a half years,
251
00:13:40,767 --> 00:13:44,467
U.S. Steel, they mined
Approximately 120 million tons
252
00:13:44,467 --> 00:13:45,667
Of coal here.
253
00:13:45,667 --> 00:13:51,367
*
254
00:13:51,367 --> 00:13:53,956
Narrator: today, this ghost town
Echoes with the endeavors
255
00:13:53,956 --> 00:13:54,000
Narrator: today, this ghost town
Echoes with the endeavors
256
00:13:55,400 --> 00:14:00,867
Of the industrious residents
Who mined this land.
257
00:14:00,867 --> 00:14:02,800
Sturgill: a lot of people
Tend to forget
258
00:14:02,800 --> 00:14:04,500
The blood, sweat, and tears,
259
00:14:04,500 --> 00:14:08,567
The struggle that these men
Put up with every single day
260
00:14:08,567 --> 00:14:10,933
To bring this rock
Out of the ground.
261
00:14:10,933 --> 00:14:16,233
*
262
00:14:16,233 --> 00:14:21,467
*
263
00:14:21,467 --> 00:14:23,956
Narrator:
In the city of kobe in japan,
264
00:14:23,956 --> 00:14:24,000
Narrator:
In the city of kobe in japan,
265
00:14:24,433 --> 00:14:26,933
Buildings stand
Tightly-packed together,
266
00:14:26,933 --> 00:14:31,100
But one empty structure
Looms above the rest.
267
00:14:31,100 --> 00:14:34,800
*
268
00:14:34,800 --> 00:14:36,833
Bell: right at the edge
Of the city,
269
00:14:36,833 --> 00:14:38,067
Suddenly, the buildings stop
270
00:14:38,067 --> 00:14:42,200
And this hill just climbs up
Away from you.
271
00:14:42,200 --> 00:14:45,233
Selwood: it's heavily wooded
With very, very dense foliage,
272
00:14:45,233 --> 00:14:48,333
And so it's really extraordinary
To find in the middle of it
273
00:14:48,333 --> 00:14:52,400
This striking,
Decrepit building.
274
00:14:52,400 --> 00:14:53,956
Auerbach: it's like something
Out of a sci-fi movie --
275
00:14:53,956 --> 00:14:54,000
Auerbach: it's like something
Out of a sci-fi movie --
276
00:14:55,133 --> 00:14:59,167
Where it's half man-made
And half just taken over.
277
00:14:59,167 --> 00:15:00,900
By nature.
278
00:15:00,900 --> 00:15:02,867
Narrator:
The only way to reach it
279
00:15:02,867 --> 00:15:06,500
Is to step on board
The old funicular railway.
280
00:15:06,500 --> 00:15:07,767
Utsumi: [ speaking japanese ]
281
00:15:07,767 --> 00:15:09,333
Interpreter: above here,
There's a structure
282
00:15:09,333 --> 00:15:12,900
That's about 90 years old.
283
00:15:12,900 --> 00:15:18,467
The building sits on top
Of a very high precipice
284
00:15:18,467 --> 00:15:21,567
With an incredible view
Over the whole of kobe city.
285
00:15:23,200 --> 00:15:23,956
*
286
00:15:23,956 --> 00:15:24,000
*
287
00:15:27,267 --> 00:15:30,767
Narrator: the unrivaled position
The site holds was matched
288
00:15:30,767 --> 00:15:34,500
Only by its elaborate interiors.
289
00:15:34,500 --> 00:15:37,533
Auerbach: the decoration here
Is fantastic.
290
00:15:37,533 --> 00:15:41,900
So many brilliant details,
And you can tell, in its time,
291
00:15:41,900 --> 00:15:45,267
This place must have been
Absolutely amazing,
292
00:15:45,267 --> 00:15:48,067
But now it is falling to pieces.
293
00:15:48,067 --> 00:15:50,767
*
294
00:15:50,767 --> 00:15:52,200
Utsumi: [ speaking japanese ]
295
00:15:52,200 --> 00:15:53,956
Interpreter:
The building has suffered
With all sorts of events
296
00:15:53,956 --> 00:15:54,000
Interpreter:
The building has suffered
With all sorts of events
297
00:15:54,400 --> 00:15:56,833
Over the years.
298
00:15:57,733 --> 00:16:00,567
Selwood: it really looks like
It's been through wars or hell,
299
00:16:00,567 --> 00:16:03,500
But the question is,
What ended this place?
300
00:16:03,500 --> 00:16:08,833
*
301
00:16:08,833 --> 00:16:14,167
*
302
00:16:14,167 --> 00:16:17,067
Narrator: from the top of
The railway on maya mountain,
303
00:16:17,067 --> 00:16:21,933
A solitary path leads towards
The old, abandoned structure.
304
00:16:21,933 --> 00:16:23,956
*
305
00:16:23,956 --> 00:16:24,000
*
306
00:16:26,433 --> 00:16:29,300
Utsumi kenichi works
For the heritage group
307
00:16:29,300 --> 00:16:31,500
Now in charge of the building.
308
00:16:34,800 --> 00:16:37,333
Utsumi: [ speaking japanese ]
309
00:16:37,333 --> 00:16:38,900
Interpreter: originally,
Maya mountain
310
00:16:38,900 --> 00:16:41,900
Was a religious site.
311
00:16:41,900 --> 00:16:46,300
Then, a large temple called
Tenjoji temple was built here,
312
00:16:46,300 --> 00:16:50,700
And it needed a funicular
To bring all the materials up.
313
00:16:50,700 --> 00:16:53,300
After that, many visitors
Used the funicular
314
00:16:53,300 --> 00:16:53,956
To come up to worship,
315
00:16:53,956 --> 00:16:54,000
To come up to worship,
316
00:16:56,100 --> 00:16:59,567
So this structure was built to
Welcome them when they arrived.
317
00:17:03,433 --> 00:17:05,700
Narrator:
The original art deco features
318
00:17:05,700 --> 00:17:08,667
Point to the early ambition
Of this place,
319
00:17:08,667 --> 00:17:12,767
Which opened in 1929.
320
00:17:12,767 --> 00:17:13,767
Utsumi: [ speaking japanese ]
321
00:17:13,767 --> 00:17:15,167
Interpreter:
In japan, at that time,
322
00:17:15,167 --> 00:17:17,533
Art deco was seen
As futuristic --
323
00:17:17,533 --> 00:17:20,467
It was the latest cultural
Import from the west,
324
00:17:20,467 --> 00:17:23,733
And this building reflects
That fashionable trend.
325
00:17:24,433 --> 00:17:28,800
Auerbach: there's a lot of
Enthusiasm about the future
326
00:17:28,800 --> 00:17:31,567
And a lot of a design aesthetic
Really reflects
327
00:17:31,567 --> 00:17:35,167
That machine-age perspective.
328
00:17:35,167 --> 00:17:38,300
You see it in new york,
In paris, in london,
329
00:17:38,300 --> 00:17:40,433
With these beautiful lines
330
00:17:40,433 --> 00:17:45,067
Trying to imitate the same
Clean lines of a locomotive
331
00:17:45,067 --> 00:17:46,800
Or an airplane.
332
00:17:46,800 --> 00:17:49,700
Auerbach: that style, you see it
All over japan,
333
00:17:49,700 --> 00:17:53,233
And that enthusiasm is expressed
In this building as well.
334
00:17:53,233 --> 00:17:53,956
*
335
00:17:53,956 --> 00:17:54,000
*
336
00:17:56,800 --> 00:17:58,533
Utsumi: [ speaking japanese ]
337
00:17:58,533 --> 00:18:00,200
Interpreter: over there,
Around the stage,
338
00:18:00,200 --> 00:18:04,567
It's designed with curves --
That's the style.
339
00:18:04,567 --> 00:18:06,933
If I had been alive at the time,
I would have loved
340
00:18:06,933 --> 00:18:10,533
To have seen it
In all its glory.
341
00:18:10,533 --> 00:18:14,767
Narrator: this vision of
Modernity was the maya club --
342
00:18:14,767 --> 00:18:18,800
Boasting public baths,
A restaurant, and a theater,
343
00:18:18,800 --> 00:18:22,433
This was a destination
In its own right.
344
00:18:24,300 --> 00:18:27,267
Utsumi: [ speaking japanese ]
345
00:18:27,267 --> 00:18:29,700
Interpreter:
This is the screening room.
346
00:18:29,700 --> 00:18:34,067
It used to be a cinema, where
They showed films every day.
347
00:18:34,067 --> 00:18:38,567
Chandeliers hung from
The ceiling,
348
00:18:38,567 --> 00:18:40,667
And there was a red carpet
On the floor.
349
00:18:40,667 --> 00:18:44,700
This was a place where people in
Kobe came to enjoy themselves.
350
00:18:48,800 --> 00:18:51,767
Most people who visited
Weren't rich or anything close.
351
00:18:51,767 --> 00:18:53,400
This place was for everyone.
352
00:18:53,400 --> 00:18:53,956
Utsumi: [ speaking japanese ]
353
00:18:53,956 --> 00:18:54,000
Utsumi: [ speaking japanese ]
354
00:19:01,500 --> 00:19:05,333
Auerbach: you can still see
The sublime level of decoration
355
00:19:05,333 --> 00:19:07,733
And the intellectual energy
That went into this place --
356
00:19:07,733 --> 00:19:10,233
It must have been marvelous
In its heyday.
357
00:19:10,233 --> 00:19:14,267
Narrator:
It was built on the promise of
A prosperous future.
358
00:19:14,267 --> 00:19:15,867
But the rumble of war,
359
00:19:15,867 --> 00:19:17,800
Which could be heard
In the distance,
360
00:19:17,800 --> 00:19:21,833
Began to threaten
The hilltop haven.
361
00:19:21,833 --> 00:19:23,956
Bell: those rooms that had been
Packed -- the grand dining hall,
362
00:19:23,956 --> 00:19:24,000
Bell: those rooms that had been
Packed -- the grand dining hall,
363
00:19:25,833 --> 00:19:30,067
The entertainment room,
Once filled with people,
364
00:19:30,067 --> 00:19:33,700
Slowly began to quieten
And empty out.
365
00:19:33,700 --> 00:19:37,933
*
366
00:19:37,933 --> 00:19:40,867
Narrator: during the early
Decades of the 20th century,
367
00:19:40,867 --> 00:19:45,333
Japan had been pursuing
A mission of imperial expansion.
368
00:19:45,333 --> 00:19:47,367
They entered
The second world war
369
00:19:47,367 --> 00:19:51,800
After attacking the u.S.
In december 1941.
370
00:19:51,800 --> 00:19:53,956
Japan's mainland cities
Were in direct line of fire
371
00:19:53,956 --> 00:19:54,000
Japan's mainland cities
Were in direct line of fire
372
00:19:56,267 --> 00:20:00,533
When the u.S.
Fought back in 1945.
373
00:20:00,533 --> 00:20:06,200
The skies above kobe
were filled with u.S. Bombers.
374
00:20:06,200 --> 00:20:09,767
Tons of explosives
Were dropped on the city.
375
00:20:11,700 --> 00:20:15,233
Auerbach: so in
The last few months of the war,
376
00:20:15,233 --> 00:20:18,033
This city is devastated.
377
00:20:18,033 --> 00:20:20,667
Narrator: almost 9,000 people
378
00:20:20,667 --> 00:20:23,956
And three square miles
Of kobe were obliterated.
379
00:20:23,956 --> 00:20:24,000
And three square miles
Of kobe were obliterated.
380
00:20:25,000 --> 00:20:29,700
The destruction went right
To the foot of maya mountain.
381
00:20:29,700 --> 00:20:33,067
The club itself escaped
The worst of the carnage
382
00:20:33,067 --> 00:20:36,300
And it would soon
Prove invaluable.
383
00:20:36,300 --> 00:20:38,267
*
384
00:20:39,600 --> 00:20:40,000
*
385
00:20:46,333 --> 00:20:49,200
Narrator: sitting high above
Kobe, the maya club
386
00:20:49,200 --> 00:20:53,667
Survived the u.S. Bombing raids
Of the second world war.
387
00:20:53,667 --> 00:20:58,333
Now its time of national service
Was about to begin.
388
00:20:59,733 --> 00:21:02,233
Utsumi: [ speaking japanese ]
389
00:21:02,233 --> 00:21:04,133
Interpreter: so, this was
The guest room floor
390
00:21:04,133 --> 00:21:07,633
For the original facility.
391
00:21:08,533 --> 00:21:09,304
After the war, soldiers
Who came back from overseas
392
00:21:09,304 --> 00:21:10,000
After the war, soldiers
Who came back from overseas
393
00:21:11,833 --> 00:21:14,567
And those people
Who lost their homes in kobe
394
00:21:14,567 --> 00:21:16,967
Began living here
In these rooms.
395
00:21:16,967 --> 00:21:21,233
Utsumi: [ speaking japanese ]
396
00:21:21,233 --> 00:21:23,900
*
397
00:21:23,900 --> 00:21:27,933
Auerbach: so this site is turned
Into a kind of barracks,
398
00:21:27,933 --> 00:21:30,167
And they can use this as a base
399
00:21:30,167 --> 00:21:33,533
From which they search
For their lost family members
400
00:21:33,533 --> 00:21:37,533
Amidst the devastation
Of what used to be kobe.
401
00:21:37,533 --> 00:21:39,304
Selwood: their task -- their
Terrible task was to try to find
402
00:21:39,304 --> 00:21:40,000
Selwood: their task -- their
Terrible task was to try to find
403
00:21:40,800 --> 00:21:44,733
In all of the rubble
Their families and their lives,
404
00:21:44,733 --> 00:21:46,733
And to try
And put those back together.
405
00:21:46,733 --> 00:21:51,700
*
406
00:21:51,700 --> 00:21:55,700
Narrator:
After somehow making it out
The other side of the war years
407
00:21:55,700 --> 00:21:56,867
For this building,
408
00:21:56,867 --> 00:22:01,233
Soon there was hope
For a brighter future.
409
00:22:01,233 --> 00:22:03,667
Selwood: yes, it was damaged
And derelict,
410
00:22:03,667 --> 00:22:06,067
But, actually, throwing
A little bit of money at it,
411
00:22:06,067 --> 00:22:08,367
It could be brought back
To its glory days,
412
00:22:08,367 --> 00:22:09,304
But with a slight twist
As a hotel.
413
00:22:09,304 --> 00:22:10,000
But with a slight twist
As a hotel.
414
00:22:12,900 --> 00:22:15,567
Auerbach: the whole site's been
Restored to its former glory --
415
00:22:15,567 --> 00:22:19,333
It's vibrant, it's luxurious,
And people can once again
416
00:22:19,333 --> 00:22:22,967
Enjoy these magnificent views
Of the city.
417
00:22:25,367 --> 00:22:28,833
Narrator: but as the damage writ
Large across the building shows,
418
00:22:28,833 --> 00:22:33,767
This story has
No fairy tale ending.
419
00:22:33,767 --> 00:22:37,067
Just when it looked
As its future was assured,
420
00:22:37,067 --> 00:22:39,304
Disaster struck again.
421
00:22:39,304 --> 00:22:40,000
Disaster struck again.
422
00:22:40,600 --> 00:22:46,333
Narrator: the year was 1967.
The storm was typhoon billie.
423
00:22:46,333 --> 00:22:50,833
*
424
00:22:50,833 --> 00:22:53,100
Auerbach: a typhoon hits kobe,
425
00:22:53,100 --> 00:22:56,967
Killing hundreds and causing
Catastrophic mudslides.
426
00:22:56,967 --> 00:23:00,200
Those mudslides damaged
The building beyond repair.
427
00:23:00,200 --> 00:23:01,400
It probably could
Have been fixed,
428
00:23:01,400 --> 00:23:03,900
But the new owners,
The cost was just too much.
429
00:23:03,900 --> 00:23:05,500
So it's abandoned again.
430
00:23:05,500 --> 00:23:09,304
It had a second life,
But it was painfully brief.
431
00:23:09,304 --> 00:23:09,367
It had a second life,
But it was painfully brief.
432
00:23:11,433 --> 00:23:12,567
Utsumi: [ speaking japanese ]
433
00:23:12,567 --> 00:23:15,100
Interpreter: those mudslides
Came inside here.
434
00:23:15,100 --> 00:23:17,067
It was such a mess
That they couldn't run it
435
00:23:17,067 --> 00:23:19,667
As a hotel anymore.
436
00:23:22,567 --> 00:23:26,167
Narrator:
While the site has seen a few
Other short-lived uses
437
00:23:26,167 --> 00:23:29,500
Through the years,
It would never fully recover
438
00:23:29,500 --> 00:23:32,867
From this devastating
Natural catastrophe.
439
00:23:32,867 --> 00:23:39,304
*
440
00:23:39,304 --> 00:23:39,767
*
441
00:23:39,767 --> 00:23:40,000
Now being watched over
442
00:23:41,067 --> 00:23:44,867
By the maya mountain
Revitalization association,
443
00:23:44,867 --> 00:23:48,533
This building is about
To enter a new phase.
444
00:23:50,400 --> 00:23:52,967
Utsumi: [ speaking japanese ]
445
00:23:52,967 --> 00:23:57,933
Interpreter: I was born and bred
In this city,
446
00:23:57,933 --> 00:24:01,600
And this building
Has always been here.
447
00:24:01,600 --> 00:24:07,700
I believe tangible things will
Eventually return to nature,
448
00:24:07,700 --> 00:24:09,304
So I want to protect them.
449
00:24:09,304 --> 00:24:10,000
So I want to protect them.
450
00:24:12,400 --> 00:24:21,167
*
451
00:24:21,167 --> 00:24:23,800
Narrator: in a blustery
Scottish estuary,
452
00:24:23,800 --> 00:24:27,933
A world-famous structure
Straddles frosty, deep water.
453
00:24:27,933 --> 00:24:34,100
*
454
00:24:34,100 --> 00:24:35,600
Auerbach:
The first thing you notice
455
00:24:35,600 --> 00:24:39,304
Is this big red giant
Of engineering.
456
00:24:39,304 --> 00:24:40,000
Is this big red giant
Of engineering.
457
00:24:40,067 --> 00:24:44,233
This is a very dangerous place
To build a bridge.
458
00:24:44,233 --> 00:24:47,767
Narrator: it towers over
A craggy outcrop.
459
00:24:47,767 --> 00:24:52,267
Auerbach: in the middle of
This enormous estuarial river,
460
00:24:52,267 --> 00:24:56,067
You find this tiny rocky island.
461
00:24:56,067 --> 00:24:59,467
There's all sorts of things
Tucked away around the edges --
462
00:24:59,467 --> 00:25:02,333
There's quite a lot going on.
463
00:25:02,333 --> 00:25:03,933
Narrator:
An insignificant structure
464
00:25:03,933 --> 00:25:06,533
At the base of the mighty bridge
465
00:25:06,533 --> 00:25:09,304
Could hold the key to
This small island's importance,
466
00:25:09,304 --> 00:25:10,000
Could hold the key to
This small island's importance,
467
00:25:11,100 --> 00:25:15,567
And it's linked to a fatal
Disaster that rocked a nation.
468
00:25:15,567 --> 00:25:20,767
*
469
00:25:20,767 --> 00:25:25,800
This waterway is known
As the firth of forth.
470
00:25:25,800 --> 00:25:29,533
Auerbach: the size and depth of
This estuary made it
471
00:25:29,533 --> 00:25:33,633
Scotland's most important
Trade artery for centuries.
472
00:25:33,633 --> 00:25:36,733
*
473
00:25:36,733 --> 00:25:38,500
Narrator:
Historian ron morris
474
00:25:38,500 --> 00:25:39,304
To the abandoned island
Of inchgarvie,
475
00:25:39,304 --> 00:25:40,000
To the abandoned island
Of inchgarvie,
476
00:25:42,133 --> 00:25:44,400
Which sits below
The forth bridge.
477
00:26:04,633 --> 00:26:08,067
Auerbach: "Inchgarvie"
Translates as "Rough island,"
478
00:26:08,067 --> 00:26:09,304
And this place really
Lives up to the name.
479
00:26:09,304 --> 00:26:10,000
And this place really
Lives up to the name.
480
00:26:10,667 --> 00:26:12,133
The currents are terrible,
481
00:26:12,133 --> 00:26:14,367
The waves crash into it,
482
00:26:14,367 --> 00:26:18,467
It's cold, terrifying,
And claustrophobic.
483
00:26:18,467 --> 00:26:23,733
*
484
00:26:23,733 --> 00:26:25,167
Narrator: yet, for centuries,
485
00:26:25,167 --> 00:26:26,967
People have gone
To great lengths
486
00:26:26,967 --> 00:26:30,467
To make use of this inhospitable
Piece of rock.
487
00:26:30,467 --> 00:26:32,133
But why?
488
00:26:33,567 --> 00:26:34,000
*
489
00:26:41,067 --> 00:26:42,800
Narrator: on the east coast
Of scotland,
490
00:26:42,800 --> 00:26:44,367
A small, rugged island
491
00:26:44,367 --> 00:26:49,167
Sits in the middle of the
Once-indomitable firth of forth.
492
00:26:51,167 --> 00:26:52,833
Evidence on the ground suggests
493
00:26:52,833 --> 00:26:55,367
That the scots have
Inhabited inchgarvie
494
00:26:55,367 --> 00:26:57,933
Since the late 1400's.
495
00:27:12,533 --> 00:27:15,133
Nusbacher: people have been
Building here,
496
00:27:15,133 --> 00:27:21,367
Clearly with an eye to defending
This bare, rocky island.
497
00:27:21,367 --> 00:27:22,933
Narrator:
In the days when the only way
498
00:27:22,933 --> 00:27:25,800
To cross this estuary
Was by boat,
499
00:27:25,800 --> 00:27:28,400
Inchgarvie was
A strategically-important
500
00:27:28,400 --> 00:27:29,967
Staging post.
501
00:27:31,967 --> 00:27:33,291
In 1491, king james of scotland
Granted a local laird
502
00:27:33,291 --> 00:27:34,000
In 1491, king james of scotland
Granted a local laird
503
00:27:36,567 --> 00:27:38,933
The right to build a fort here.
504
00:27:49,967 --> 00:27:51,900
But inchgarvie's ruins show
505
00:27:51,900 --> 00:27:56,333
That someone has defended
This estuary much more recently.
506
00:28:09,300 --> 00:28:10,967
Narrator:
The newer fortifications
507
00:28:10,967 --> 00:28:14,267
Date back to
The first world war.
508
00:28:14,267 --> 00:28:16,400
Auerbach: the first thing you
Notice is a gun emplacement,
509
00:28:16,400 --> 00:28:22,200
Which is obviously 20th century,
And the gun battery faces east,
510
00:28:22,200 --> 00:28:23,700
Which would be towards
The north sea,
511
00:28:23,700 --> 00:28:27,333
Towards the entryway
To this estuarial river.
512
00:28:57,500 --> 00:28:59,633
Narrator: yet the disaster
Linked to this place
513
00:28:59,633 --> 00:29:03,291
Came not in wartime,
But in peace.
514
00:29:03,291 --> 00:29:04,000
Came not in wartime,
But in peace.
515
00:29:05,167 --> 00:29:09,067
40 years earlier,
The advancing age of invention
516
00:29:09,067 --> 00:29:11,200
Meant that scotland's
Firth of forth
517
00:29:11,200 --> 00:29:13,167
Had to be conquered.
518
00:29:16,100 --> 00:29:21,267
Barratt: the u.K. Was exploding
In trade and transportation.
519
00:29:21,267 --> 00:29:24,067
The railway boom kicked off
Big style,
520
00:29:24,067 --> 00:29:29,200
And goods and people were moving
All over the u.K.
521
00:29:29,200 --> 00:29:33,291
But the firth of forth is
A huge, deep water channel,
522
00:29:33,291 --> 00:29:33,900
But the firth of forth is
A huge, deep water channel,
523
00:29:33,900 --> 00:29:34,000
Is an unsurmountable
Obstruction.
524
00:29:36,733 --> 00:29:38,167
To get from one side
To the other
525
00:29:38,167 --> 00:29:43,100
Would be a 40-mile detour
Or a tricky trip on the ferry.
526
00:29:43,100 --> 00:29:47,067
So they commissioned a bridge,
But there was a problem.
527
00:29:49,600 --> 00:29:51,100
Narrator:
The depth of the estuary
528
00:29:51,100 --> 00:29:53,800
Made it very difficult to build.
529
00:29:53,800 --> 00:29:56,067
*
530
00:30:07,933 --> 00:30:10,433
Narrator: in the 19th century,
Inchgarvie was bought
531
00:30:10,433 --> 00:30:13,267
By the forth bridge
Railway company,
532
00:30:13,267 --> 00:30:18,033
To provide a foundation
For a bridge.
533
00:30:18,033 --> 00:30:21,333
What you see on the surface
Is just a tenth of it,
534
00:30:21,333 --> 00:30:23,933
But the geology
Underneath the water,
535
00:30:23,933 --> 00:30:28,200
Means that rocks extend out.
536
00:30:28,200 --> 00:30:29,600
Narrator: over millennia,
537
00:30:29,600 --> 00:30:33,233
Glacier ice scoured away
Soft layers of rock,
538
00:30:33,233 --> 00:30:33,291
Leaving behind hard, rocky
Outcrops like inchgarvie.
539
00:30:33,291 --> 00:30:34,000
Leaving behind hard, rocky
Outcrops like inchgarvie.
540
00:30:39,233 --> 00:30:41,900
And that provided
A solid foundation
541
00:30:41,900 --> 00:30:43,933
In order to get the cantilever
542
00:30:43,933 --> 00:30:48,633
For the center of
The firth bridge.
543
00:30:48,633 --> 00:30:50,833
Auerbach:
There was a natural column --
544
00:30:50,833 --> 00:30:53,067
A stone foundation right there
545
00:30:53,067 --> 00:30:55,600
In the middle of
The firth of forth --
546
00:30:55,600 --> 00:30:56,733
Inchgarvie.
547
00:30:56,733 --> 00:30:59,867
It was like a gift
From the gods.
548
00:31:02,867 --> 00:31:03,291
Narrator: but an abandoned pier
Points to a complication.
549
00:31:03,291 --> 00:31:04,000
Narrator: but an abandoned pier
Points to a complication.
550
00:31:16,933 --> 00:31:19,067
Nusbacher: if you look at
The bottom of the bridge,
551
00:31:19,067 --> 00:31:22,533
There's like a stump,
As if an extra caisson
552
00:31:22,533 --> 00:31:26,233
Had been built
And then discarded.
553
00:31:26,233 --> 00:31:30,133
Narrator: a caisson is the first
Step in building a bridge --
554
00:31:30,133 --> 00:31:33,291
This watertight structure allows
The foundations to be laid.
555
00:31:33,291 --> 00:31:34,000
This watertight structure allows
The foundations to be laid.
556
00:31:35,400 --> 00:31:40,267
Nusbacher: the geology of the
Region here makes it very hard
557
00:31:40,267 --> 00:31:42,300
To successfully build a bridge.
558
00:31:42,300 --> 00:31:46,233
You've got to build caissons,
559
00:31:46,233 --> 00:31:49,633
Float them to just
The right spot,
560
00:31:49,633 --> 00:31:54,300
And then sink them deeply
Onto the sea floor
561
00:31:54,300 --> 00:31:58,067
In order to build the footings
For your bridge.
562
00:31:58,067 --> 00:32:00,067
Here on the island, we can see
563
00:32:00,067 --> 00:32:03,291
That somebody has started
To put caissons down.
564
00:32:03,291 --> 00:32:03,867
That somebody has started
To put caissons down.
565
00:32:03,867 --> 00:32:04,000
*
566
00:32:07,133 --> 00:32:09,600
Narrator: the explanation
For the abandoned caisson
567
00:32:09,600 --> 00:32:12,467
Lies 30 miles north
568
00:32:12,467 --> 00:32:17,400
On another windy
Scottish estuary -- the tay.
569
00:32:17,400 --> 00:32:20,867
Here, the celebrated engineer
Thomas bouch
570
00:32:20,867 --> 00:32:24,533
Had built the tay bridge.
571
00:32:24,533 --> 00:32:25,700
Barratt: sir thomas bouch,
572
00:32:25,700 --> 00:32:30,700
He designs caissons,
The ability to sink a ring
573
00:32:30,700 --> 00:32:33,291
Into a water body
And then put concrete inside it
574
00:32:33,291 --> 00:32:34,000
Into a water body
And then put concrete inside it
575
00:32:34,167 --> 00:32:37,767
So you can build up
These supports.
576
00:32:37,767 --> 00:32:41,167
Narrator: his next commission
Was to design another bridge
577
00:32:41,167 --> 00:32:43,467
To span the firth of forth.
578
00:33:06,633 --> 00:33:11,467
Narrator: bouch's new design was
Hailed as the wonder of the age
579
00:33:11,467 --> 00:33:13,667
Until the howling winds
Of scotland
580
00:33:13,667 --> 00:33:19,833
Sent dozens of helpless souls
Into the drink.
581
00:33:21,233 --> 00:33:22,000
*
582
00:33:29,533 --> 00:33:31,333
Narrator:
In the mid-19th century,
583
00:33:31,333 --> 00:33:33,667
One of britain's
Most famous engineers
584
00:33:33,667 --> 00:33:37,433
Had been commissioned
To build the forth bridge,
585
00:33:37,433 --> 00:33:41,700
But disaster was about to strike
One of his earlier designs
586
00:33:41,700 --> 00:33:43,900
In a nearby estuary.
587
00:33:43,900 --> 00:33:47,333
Barratt: one night, the wind got
Up really quite strong,
588
00:33:47,333 --> 00:33:51,032
So a big, big load from
Sort of a horizontal direction
589
00:33:51,032 --> 00:33:51,300
So a big, big load from
Sort of a horizontal direction
590
00:33:51,300 --> 00:33:52,000
Pushing against the tay bridge
591
00:33:53,067 --> 00:33:55,900
That thomas bouch
Hadn't accounted for.
592
00:33:55,900 --> 00:33:59,367
*
593
00:33:59,367 --> 00:34:04,100
Narrator: the central section of
The tay bridge collapsed.
594
00:34:04,100 --> 00:34:09,833
The train continued to carry on
And plunged back into the water.
595
00:34:09,833 --> 00:34:11,900
Narrator:
More than 70 people died
596
00:34:11,900 --> 00:34:14,433
In the tay estuary that night.
597
00:34:17,333 --> 00:34:21,032
Auerbach: this was bad news
For the forth bridge.
598
00:34:21,032 --> 00:34:21,933
Auerbach: this was bad news
For the forth bridge.
599
00:34:21,933 --> 00:34:22,000
The future of that new
Rail bridge was now in doubt.
600
00:34:26,067 --> 00:34:29,133
Could they continue building
The bridge
601
00:34:29,133 --> 00:34:33,100
Using the design of this
Now-disgraced architect,
602
00:34:33,100 --> 00:34:36,300
Or should they abandon
The project?
603
00:34:36,300 --> 00:34:38,433
Well, they decided to scrap it.
604
00:34:39,433 --> 00:34:41,967
Barratt: all you can see now
In what's left behind
605
00:34:41,967 --> 00:34:46,433
Is one pillar
Sticking up out of the sea.
606
00:34:46,433 --> 00:34:51,032
Thomas bouch was devastated,
His reputation was ruined,
607
00:34:51,032 --> 00:34:51,767
Thomas bouch was devastated,
His reputation was ruined,
608
00:34:51,767 --> 00:34:52,000
And he never recovered,
And he died a disgrace.
609
00:34:55,067 --> 00:34:57,633
*
610
00:34:57,633 --> 00:35:00,267
A few years later,
A new bridge was commissioned
611
00:35:00,267 --> 00:35:03,267
And it still stands to this day.
612
00:35:03,267 --> 00:35:07,500
*
613
00:35:07,500 --> 00:35:10,067
Narrator: the forth bridge
Is now one of three
614
00:35:10,067 --> 00:35:11,800
To span this estuary.
615
00:35:31,067 --> 00:35:34,600
Narrator: in the north of the
Mediterranean island sardinia
616
00:35:34,600 --> 00:35:37,667
Is a dramatic range
Of rocky mountains.
617
00:35:37,667 --> 00:35:41,333
At its heart is
The imperious granite massive
618
00:35:41,333 --> 00:35:43,200
Of monte limbara.
619
00:35:43,200 --> 00:35:47,600
*
620
00:35:47,600 --> 00:35:51,032
Bell: you ascend up this
Winding, steep mountain road
621
00:35:51,032 --> 00:35:51,167
Bell: you ascend up this
Winding, steep mountain road
622
00:35:51,167 --> 00:35:52,000
Until you reach the peak,
And then in a clearing,
623
00:35:54,533 --> 00:35:58,667
These six massive structures
Appear out of nowhere.
624
00:35:58,667 --> 00:36:02,067
*
625
00:36:02,067 --> 00:36:02,967
Meigs: all of a sudden, you see
626
00:36:02,967 --> 00:36:05,867
This compound
Of massive antennas,
627
00:36:05,867 --> 00:36:09,167
Pointed off in all directions.
628
00:36:09,167 --> 00:36:12,633
Some very large and ambitious
Communications center
629
00:36:12,633 --> 00:36:16,667
Was built here,
But what was it for?
630
00:36:16,667 --> 00:36:19,967
Narrator: at almost 4,500 feet
Above sea level,
631
00:36:19,967 --> 00:36:21,032
This mountain creates
Its own microclimate.
632
00:36:21,032 --> 00:36:22,000
This mountain creates
Its own microclimate.
633
00:36:25,133 --> 00:36:28,700
Bell:
This place is at high altitude.
634
00:36:28,700 --> 00:36:31,500
The weather can turn
On a knife edge --
635
00:36:31,500 --> 00:36:33,767
One minute,
It's brilliant sunshine,
636
00:36:33,767 --> 00:36:37,633
And the next,
You're enveloped by cloud.
637
00:36:37,633 --> 00:36:39,633
Meigs: they must have had
An excellent reason
638
00:36:39,633 --> 00:36:43,633
To want to build this kind of
Very ambitious
639
00:36:43,633 --> 00:36:48,100
High tech facility
In exactly this spot.
640
00:36:48,100 --> 00:36:51,032
Bell: inside, you have row upon
Row of electronics equipment,
641
00:36:51,032 --> 00:36:52,000
Bell: inside, you have row upon
Row of electronics equipment,
642
00:36:52,133 --> 00:36:55,167
Massive generators,
Living quarters,
643
00:36:55,167 --> 00:36:58,467
And of course,
These six huge dishes.
644
00:36:58,467 --> 00:37:02,833
Whoever built this had access
To some serious resources.
645
00:37:06,067 --> 00:37:08,567
Narrator:
Kept top secret for decades,
646
00:37:08,567 --> 00:37:12,600
Speculation over the type of
Operations that took place here
647
00:37:12,600 --> 00:37:18,633
Has always been rife,
And rumors still abound.
648
00:37:18,633 --> 00:37:21,032
Nusbacher:
The locals have no details,
649
00:37:21,032 --> 00:37:21,500
Nusbacher:
The locals have no details,
650
00:37:21,500 --> 00:37:22,000
So the locals make up
Their own stories to explain
651
00:37:25,100 --> 00:37:29,567
This mysterious hulking presence
On top of the mountain.
652
00:37:29,567 --> 00:37:35,300
*
653
00:37:35,300 --> 00:37:41,067
*
654
00:37:41,067 --> 00:37:43,167
Marcello moretto remembers well
655
00:37:43,167 --> 00:37:45,867
What this site looked like
Years ago.
656
00:37:45,867 --> 00:37:49,433
*
657
00:37:49,433 --> 00:37:50,600
Moretto: [ speaking italian ]
658
00:37:50,600 --> 00:37:51,032
Interpreter: it is rather weird
To see it today,
659
00:37:51,032 --> 00:37:52,000
Interpreter: it is rather weird
To see it today,
660
00:37:52,167 --> 00:37:53,733
But at the time it was
Abandoned,
661
00:37:53,733 --> 00:37:55,867
It was left in perfect
Working condition,
662
00:37:55,867 --> 00:38:00,167
Even though, of course,
It was no longer in use.
663
00:38:00,167 --> 00:38:02,267
Narrator: he works for
An environmental agency
664
00:38:02,267 --> 00:38:05,067
Now trying to clean up
The noxious mess
665
00:38:05,067 --> 00:38:08,967
Left by this decaying
Infrastructure.
666
00:38:08,967 --> 00:38:11,433
Moretto: [ speaking italian ]
667
00:38:11,433 --> 00:38:13,367
Interpreter: from
An environmental standpoint,
668
00:38:13,367 --> 00:38:15,867
Especially from
A forestry standpoint,
669
00:38:15,867 --> 00:38:20,900
This is a dump of
Basically iron materials.
670
00:38:23,067 --> 00:38:25,067
Nusbacher: this is built at
The top of a mountain --
671
00:38:25,067 --> 00:38:29,500
Everything that happens up here
Flows downstream,
672
00:38:29,500 --> 00:38:32,300
And as this place
Starts to disintegrate,
673
00:38:32,300 --> 00:38:36,133
It becomes a toxic threat
To people living down below.
674
00:38:38,100 --> 00:38:40,467
Narrator: the long-term
Environmental impact
675
00:38:40,467 --> 00:38:42,400
Was the last thing
On the minds
676
00:38:42,400 --> 00:38:47,600
Of those constructing
This complex back in 1966,
677
00:38:47,600 --> 00:38:51,032
When the world was split by
Two bitterly-opposed ideologies.
678
00:38:51,032 --> 00:38:52,000
When the world was split by
Two bitterly-opposed ideologies.
679
00:38:54,667 --> 00:39:00,567
Nusbacher: it is no exaggeration
To say that this is a moment
680
00:39:00,567 --> 00:39:03,633
When the nato countries --
681
00:39:03,633 --> 00:39:06,133
The united states
And its european allies --
682
00:39:06,133 --> 00:39:12,400
Are convinced that any moment,
The soviets are going to attack.
683
00:39:12,400 --> 00:39:18,800
This place is born out
Of a very real expectation
684
00:39:18,800 --> 00:39:20,367
That the cold war
685
00:39:20,367 --> 00:39:21,032
Is going to turn
Into world war iii any day.
686
00:39:21,032 --> 00:39:22,000
Is going to turn
Into world war iii any day.
687
00:39:24,500 --> 00:39:28,067
*
688
00:39:28,067 --> 00:39:31,200
Narrator: so who built these
Decaying behemoths to gain
689
00:39:31,200 --> 00:39:35,433
The upper hand in the escalation
Of world war iii?
690
00:39:38,167 --> 00:39:39,000
*
691
00:39:47,100 --> 00:39:48,933
Narrator: in the 1960s,
692
00:39:48,933 --> 00:39:52,167
The world was in the depths
Of the cold war,
693
00:39:52,167 --> 00:39:54,367
With the u.S.
And the soviet union
694
00:39:54,367 --> 00:39:56,433
Vying for supremacy.
695
00:39:58,767 --> 00:39:59,867
Meigs: the threat of nuclear war
696
00:39:59,867 --> 00:40:04,400
Was looming very intensely
At all times.
697
00:40:04,400 --> 00:40:07,700
Both sides knew they needed
Excellent communications,
698
00:40:07,700 --> 00:40:08,008
Both to know what was happening,
699
00:40:08,008 --> 00:40:09,000
Both to know what was happening,
700
00:40:09,167 --> 00:40:12,833
But also, potentially,
To prevent a misfire,
701
00:40:12,833 --> 00:40:15,533
You know,
To prevent a false alarm.
702
00:40:15,533 --> 00:40:20,867
Narrator: these six vast dishes
Date back to that time.
703
00:40:20,867 --> 00:40:24,067
Inside, rusting machinery
Reveals
704
00:40:24,067 --> 00:40:26,600
The identity of their owners.
705
00:40:26,600 --> 00:40:30,367
Built by the u.S. Air force,
This was one of nato's
706
00:40:30,367 --> 00:40:33,900
Most secret
Radio communication centers.
707
00:40:33,900 --> 00:40:36,567
The monte limbara station
Was designed
708
00:40:36,567 --> 00:40:38,008
To plug a weak spot
In nato defenses.
709
00:40:38,008 --> 00:40:39,000
To plug a weak spot
In nato defenses.
710
00:40:40,000 --> 00:40:42,367
*
711
00:40:42,367 --> 00:40:44,767
Nusbacher:
Nato's southern flank --
712
00:40:44,767 --> 00:40:46,667
That is the nato countries
713
00:40:46,667 --> 00:40:50,267
Facing south,
Towards north africa --
714
00:40:50,267 --> 00:40:53,833
Was always the soft
Underbelly of nato.
715
00:40:53,833 --> 00:40:58,400
It was always a place where
The soviets, where their allies
716
00:40:58,400 --> 00:41:02,067
Might be able to strike.
717
00:41:02,067 --> 00:41:03,633
Narrator:
The location of this facility
718
00:41:03,633 --> 00:41:07,067
Betrays nato's
Clandestine intention.
719
00:41:07,067 --> 00:41:08,008
*
720
00:41:08,008 --> 00:41:09,000
*
721
00:41:10,667 --> 00:41:13,833
Meigs: the island of sardinia
Is beautifully placed
722
00:41:13,833 --> 00:41:15,500
For this kind of communication.
723
00:41:15,500 --> 00:41:17,933
For one thing, you're sitting
In the mediterranean
724
00:41:17,933 --> 00:41:20,933
Between italy and spain.
To the east,
725
00:41:20,933 --> 00:41:24,967
It points to a similar station
In naples, to the west,
726
00:41:24,967 --> 00:41:27,900
To the island of minorca,
Off the coast of spain,
727
00:41:27,900 --> 00:41:31,567
And via those,
Ultimately around the world.
728
00:41:31,567 --> 00:41:35,867
*
729
00:41:35,867 --> 00:41:38,008
Narrator: this station was part
Of a vast network
730
00:41:38,008 --> 00:41:39,000
Narrator: this station was part
Of a vast network
731
00:41:39,600 --> 00:41:43,500
Capable of transmitting
Crucial classified messages
732
00:41:43,500 --> 00:41:47,333
Over thousands of miles.
733
00:41:47,333 --> 00:41:51,233
The ultra high frequency devices
And abandoned technology
734
00:41:51,233 --> 00:41:55,200
Found at this site show
How this was overcome.
735
00:41:55,200 --> 00:41:59,067
Nusbacher: this was
A microwave communications base
736
00:41:59,067 --> 00:42:01,367
That used microwaves
To communicate
737
00:42:01,367 --> 00:42:05,533
By using the troposphere,
Part of the atmosphere,
738
00:42:05,533 --> 00:42:08,008
To send microwaves
Over the horizon.
739
00:42:08,008 --> 00:42:08,733
To send microwaves
Over the horizon.
740
00:42:08,733 --> 00:42:09,000
And the best way to communicate
Long distances at this time
741
00:42:14,567 --> 00:42:18,400
Was called troposcatter,
Or tropospheric scatter.
742
00:42:21,133 --> 00:42:23,300
Narrator: until the 1950s,
743
00:42:23,300 --> 00:42:26,567
Radio communication beyond
The curvature of the earth,
744
00:42:26,567 --> 00:42:29,567
Which blocked the signal,
Was impossible.
745
00:42:29,567 --> 00:42:31,867
With the invention
Of troposcatter,
746
00:42:31,867 --> 00:42:34,133
Stations like monte limbara
747
00:42:34,133 --> 00:42:36,600
Could transmit
To a receiver station
748
00:42:36,600 --> 00:42:38,008
Out of the line of sight.
749
00:42:38,008 --> 00:42:38,167
Out of the line of sight.
750
00:42:38,167 --> 00:42:39,000
By using particles six miles up
In the earth's lower atmosphere
751
00:42:42,700 --> 00:42:44,967
To reflect microwave signals.
752
00:42:44,967 --> 00:42:47,733
Meigs: that system can amplify
The signal,
753
00:42:47,733 --> 00:42:50,467
Send it up again,
And repeat the process.
754
00:42:50,467 --> 00:42:53,533
So instead of sending your
Radio signal, you know,
755
00:42:53,533 --> 00:43:00,533
30, 40, 50 miles,
Now you can send it 250 miles.
756
00:43:00,533 --> 00:43:03,600
Narrator: that meant fewer
Costly relay stations
757
00:43:03,600 --> 00:43:08,008
And much faster
Long-distance communication.
758
00:43:08,008 --> 00:43:08,467
And much faster
Long-distance communication.
759
00:43:08,467 --> 00:43:09,000
Nusbacher: we were ready to
Coordinate the nuclear forces
760
00:43:13,433 --> 00:43:17,267
That we're going to have
To smash a soviet advance
761
00:43:17,267 --> 00:43:19,067
Into western europe.
762
00:43:21,467 --> 00:43:25,300
The amount of communication
And coordination
763
00:43:25,300 --> 00:43:28,867
That was required
By the supreme headquarters,
764
00:43:28,867 --> 00:43:32,200
Allied powers europe, by nato,
765
00:43:32,200 --> 00:43:36,767
By the vast american commitment
To defending europe,
766
00:43:36,767 --> 00:43:38,008
All of that required an immense
Amount of coordination.
767
00:43:38,008 --> 00:43:39,000
All of that required an immense
Amount of coordination.
768
00:43:42,600 --> 00:43:45,533
Meigs: thankfully,
They never had to,
769
00:43:45,533 --> 00:43:47,833
But the fact that we were ready,
770
00:43:47,833 --> 00:43:50,833
Maybe, is part of the reason,
On both sides,
771
00:43:50,833 --> 00:43:53,500
Why the cold war
Never turned hot.
772
00:43:53,500 --> 00:43:58,867
*
773
00:43:58,867 --> 00:44:02,567
Narrator: this base did play
An active role in war --
774
00:44:02,567 --> 00:44:05,067
A u.S. Fighter bomber
Was supposedly guided
775
00:44:05,067 --> 00:44:08,008
By the monte limbara antennae
On a controversial mission.
776
00:44:08,008 --> 00:44:09,000
By the monte limbara antennae
On a controversial mission.
777
00:44:10,567 --> 00:44:15,067
Nusbacher: in 1986, a disco
In berlin is bombed
778
00:44:15,067 --> 00:44:17,067
By libyan-sponsored terrorists,
779
00:44:17,067 --> 00:44:20,067
And american servicemen
Are involved.
780
00:44:20,067 --> 00:44:23,933
President reagan orders
Muammar gaddafi,
781
00:44:23,933 --> 00:44:25,333
The libyan dictator,
782
00:44:25,333 --> 00:44:30,533
That his family compound
Be bombed by american aircraft.
783
00:44:30,533 --> 00:44:32,800
*
784
00:44:32,800 --> 00:44:35,233
Narrator: gaddafi's
Private residence is struck
785
00:44:35,233 --> 00:44:38,008
And dozens of civilians
Are also killed.
786
00:44:38,008 --> 00:44:39,000
And dozens of civilians
Are also killed.
787
00:44:40,167 --> 00:44:43,767
The claim that this station
Facilitated the strike, however,
788
00:44:43,767 --> 00:44:45,600
Remains unfounded.
789
00:44:45,600 --> 00:44:50,633
*
790
00:44:50,633 --> 00:44:54,333
Even when the iron curtain
Was raised across europe,
791
00:44:54,333 --> 00:44:58,100
This station had not yet
Outlived its usefulness.
792
00:45:00,300 --> 00:45:03,600
Nusbacher: as late as operation
Desert shield/desert storm,
793
00:45:03,600 --> 00:45:05,933
In 1990-91,
794
00:45:05,933 --> 00:45:08,008
The u.S. Is still, to some
Extent using these troposcatter
795
00:45:08,008 --> 00:45:09,000
The u.S. Is still, to some
Extent using these troposcatter
796
00:45:11,233 --> 00:45:14,133
Stations to communicate
Around the mediterranean.
797
00:45:14,133 --> 00:45:20,867
And it is such an easy system
To use that you are able
798
00:45:20,867 --> 00:45:26,067
To dial troops in theater,
Using defense switch network,
799
00:45:26,067 --> 00:45:30,067
As though you're dialing around
The corner back in the states.
800
00:45:30,067 --> 00:45:32,700
*
801
00:45:32,700 --> 00:45:34,533
Meigs: this system is still
Very much in use,
802
00:45:34,533 --> 00:45:38,008
And useful during that period
When all kinds of secure traffic
803
00:45:38,008 --> 00:45:38,500
And useful during that period
When all kinds of secure traffic
804
00:45:38,500 --> 00:45:39,000
Had to travel around
The mediterranean europe.
805
00:45:43,367 --> 00:45:50,367
Narrator: the monte limbara
Station was retired in 1993.
806
00:45:50,367 --> 00:45:52,800
Meigs: it had been made obsolete
By satellite communications,
807
00:45:52,800 --> 00:45:54,400
Which are so much easier --
808
00:45:54,400 --> 00:45:55,733
They don't require
All these bases
809
00:45:55,733 --> 00:45:57,967
All over the country,
So much more secure.
810
00:45:57,967 --> 00:46:00,900
All you need is a few satellites
Orbiting the earth
811
00:46:00,900 --> 00:46:05,933
And you can really communicate
With any point on the planet.
812
00:46:05,933 --> 00:46:07,933
Bell: when the u.S. Forces left,
813
00:46:07,933 --> 00:46:08,008
It was like they just vanished
Into thin air.
814
00:46:08,008 --> 00:46:09,000
It was like they just vanished
Into thin air.
815
00:46:10,733 --> 00:46:13,433
But what they left behind
Wasn't just documents,
816
00:46:13,433 --> 00:46:18,067
Machinery, and equipment --
It was an ecological nightmare.
817
00:46:18,067 --> 00:46:20,667
*
818
00:46:20,667 --> 00:46:26,067
Narrator: for the locals,
There was one final insult.
819
00:46:26,067 --> 00:46:29,933
Bell: as this revelation of
Exactly how much the u.S. Paid
820
00:46:29,933 --> 00:46:31,500
The italian government
821
00:46:31,500 --> 00:46:36,400
For use of this mountaintop site
For 27 years --
822
00:46:36,400 --> 00:46:38,008
Just five lira a year.
823
00:46:38,008 --> 00:46:39,000
Just five lira a year.
824
00:46:40,667 --> 00:46:42,967
Narrator:
That's less than one dollar.
825
00:46:42,967 --> 00:46:50,700
*
826
00:46:50,700 --> 00:46:53,467
Environmentalists
Like marcello moretto
827
00:46:53,467 --> 00:46:57,467
Are attempting
To clean up this site
828
00:46:57,467 --> 00:47:03,300
And transform it into a place
Of historical significance.
829
00:47:03,300 --> 00:47:04,600
Moretto: [ speaking italian ]
830
00:47:04,600 --> 00:47:06,800
Interpreter: we would like this
Place to become a museum
831
00:47:06,800 --> 00:47:08,008
About the cold war.
832
00:47:08,008 --> 00:47:08,167
About the cold war.
833
00:47:08,167 --> 00:47:09,000
A museum of industrial and
Military archeology.
834
00:47:11,600 --> 00:47:15,100
It would have
Its own importance.
835
00:47:15,100 --> 00:47:17,367
Narrator: in a more recent turn
Of events,
836
00:47:17,367 --> 00:47:21,333
Tropospheric scattering
Is experiencing a resurgence,
837
00:47:21,333 --> 00:47:26,333
And military experts see renewed
Potential for sites like this.
838
00:47:26,333 --> 00:47:30,133
Nusbacher:
As nato weakens
839
00:47:30,133 --> 00:47:34,833
In the face of
American disinterest,
840
00:47:34,833 --> 00:47:38,008
As russia becomes more powerful,
841
00:47:38,008 --> 00:47:38,500
As russia becomes more powerful,
842
00:47:38,500 --> 00:47:39,000
It is not difficult
To see a scenario
843
00:47:40,733 --> 00:47:46,067
In which someone desiring
To dominate the mediterranean
844
00:47:46,067 --> 00:47:49,567
Could deploy
Antisatellite weapons
845
00:47:49,567 --> 00:47:53,233
And could create a situation
846
00:47:53,233 --> 00:47:55,733
In which this mountaintop
Might again
847
00:47:55,733 --> 00:47:58,067
Be useful
As a communication station.
848
00:47:58,067 --> 00:48:03,867
*
67721
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