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LAND WITHOUT BREAD
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This film was shot in 1932...
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...soon after the founding of the Spanish Republic.
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The region we are going to visit is called Las Hurdes.
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It's barren and inhospitable and man is forced to fight for subsistence.
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The first road to las Hurdes was built only in 1922.
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Before that, it was unknown to the rest of the world and even in Spain.
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On the way to Las Hurdes, we pass La Alberca.
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It's a bit more prosperous, but still feudal.
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Almost all the inhabitants of Las Hurdes are in debt to this town.
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The church at La Alberca.
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Two skulls in their niches symbolise the town's destiny.
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Most homes have three storeys.
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This is rare in Spain and gives the streets a medieval aspect.
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Many homes have a religious text over the door:
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"Ave Maria, conceived without sin."
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The day we arrived, the women were dressed in their finery.
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Why were they dressed so beautifully?
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They said they were going to the plaza...
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...for an annual ceremony that's strange and barbaric.
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Newly wedded men gather.
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Each must take up the head of a rooster.
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A rope extends across the street.
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On it hangs a rooster tied by the legs.
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The men gallop by and try to catch a head.
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After parading in triumph with the heads...
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...the grooms offer everyone wine.
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It's a time for enjoyment.
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In the crowd, a baby adorned with silver medals.
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They are like amulets from Africa or Oceania.
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By 7 pm...
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...almost everyone is drunk.
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3 kilometers away, from a hill top...
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...we look down on the 52 villages of Las Hurdes.
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They have a total population of ten thousand.
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Down steep slopes to the valley of the Batuecas...
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...inhabited by a solitary monk and his maid.
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For centuries this has been home to monks of the Carmelite order.
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They preached Christianity in the villages of Las Hurdes.
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Batuecas has a rich prehistory.
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Skilful cave paintings...
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...representing men, goats and bees.
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Toads, snakes and lizards...
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...are now the only inhabitants of these ruins.
45
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Rich vegetation...
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...with more than 200 species of trees.
47
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Yet 5 kilometres from this fertile valley...
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...there are almost no trees.
Just a few fruit trees, rockroses and heather.
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The convent is surrounded by an 8 kilometer wall.
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It protects from attacks by wolves and wild boar.
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Inside...
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...are the scattered ruins of 18 hermitages.
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Each is marked by a cypress or two.
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Beyond here...
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.. lies Las Hurdes proper.
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We are entering the barren lands of Las Hurdes.
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The village of Aceitunilla is in one of the poorest valleys.
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The white building is the school, built recently.
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On its sloping streets we encounter daily life.
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Strange, but we never heard anyone singing in Las Hurdes.
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A miserable rivulet...
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...runs through the village
down from the hills.
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In summer, water in scarce.
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The villagers are obliged to use
this filthy water.
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Strange things go on here.
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The rivulet serves many purposes.
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Three children eat a slice of bread dipped in water.
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Until recently bread was almost unheard of here.
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It was given them by their teacher...
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...who makes the children eat in his presence...
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...fearing their parents will take it from them
if they take it home.
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The children are summoned to school.
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These ragged, barefoot urchins receive the same education...
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...as children the world over.
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Clothing is brought back by Hurdanos who leave...
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...each summer for Castilla and Andalusia.
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They go there mainly to beg.
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When they return, they exchange clothing for potatoes.
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These hungry children...
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...are learning algebra.
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In some villages of Las Hurdes most of the children are orphans.
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They are abandoned children whom the women of Las Hurdes...
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...bring back from Public Assistance in Cuidad Rodrigo...
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...a two-day walk away across the hills.
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The women raise the children in exchange for 15 pesetas a month.
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This miserable sum is enough for an entire family...
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.. until the not-so-distant day when the practice is outlawed.
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An unexpected and shocking picture we saw in the school.
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Who could have made this absurd engraving?
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We opened at random a book of maxims we found on a table.
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One of the best students
writes on a slate...
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...one of the book's maxims.
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It's the same the world over: "Respect other people's property!"
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In this relatively fertile valley...
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...there are some walnut, cherry and olive trees.
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This is the village of Martilandran.
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The shapes between the trees,
resembling the shell of some mythical animal...
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...are just the roof tiles of the village.
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Entering the village, we are greeted by a chorus of coughing.
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Most of the villagers are ill.
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It's a scene of devastating misery.
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The principle disease here is goitre.
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Look at this woman with her goitre:
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She's only 32 years old.
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We visit the village in the company of the mayor.
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On an empty street we see a girl.
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We ask the mayor what's wrong with her.
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He tells us the girl's been there 3 days without moving.
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She must be sick.
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One of us goes up to her...
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...to find out what's wrong with her throat.
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He asks her to open her mouth.
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Her gums and throat are inflamed.
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Sadly there's nothing we can do for her.
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Two days later we returned to the village.
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We asked after the girl and were told she had died.
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What do the people of this sterile land eat?
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Almost the only food here is...
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...potatoes and beans,
and then not always.
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Especially in June and July...
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...there's not enough food.
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The only meat is pork.
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But only the wealthier families have a pig.
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00:11:53,442 --> 00:11:56,433
Once a year a pig is slaughtered. The meat lasts three days.
125
00:11:57,943 --> 00:12:00,421
Olive trees grow in more fertile spots.
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00:12:00,845 --> 00:12:03,608
But the olives are usually eaten by insects.
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The best animal for such infertile land is the goat.
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Its milk is reserved for the gravely ill, who mop it up with bread...
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...brought from afar by the beggars, and given only to the sick.
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Goat meat is only eaten when a goat dies.
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This happens from time to time on the steep slopes.
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The main industry in Las Hurdes is apiculture.
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But most of the hives don't belong to the Hurdanos.
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And the honey the bees get from heather is very bitter.
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00:12:53,889 --> 00:12:56,669
The owners of the hives are from La Alberca.
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They only let the Hurdanos have the hives in winter.
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It's milder here than in the neighbouring province of Salamanca.
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In spring they take the hives to Castilla.
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Then, it's common to see pack animals laden with hives...
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...heading for Castilla.
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00:13:17,332 --> 00:13:20,004
One day, we came across a donkey laden with hives.
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Two Hurdanos are taking it to Salamanca.
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Later, while we were eating, we were asked for help.
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The donkey was tied up and one of the hives had fallen.
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It was being attacked by bees.
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It tried to defend itself...
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...but more hives had fallen.
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And swarms of bees had descended on it.
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An hour later it was dead. A month before our arrival...
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... three men and eleven donkeys had died the same way.
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May and June are the hardest months in Las Hurdes.
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The potatoes have run out.
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The villagers eat unripe cherries.
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lt gives them dysentery.
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This is when the exodus begins.
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All the able-bodied men who don't have a fever...
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...head for Castilla or Extremadura to find work in the fields.
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We came across several of these caravans: of 10, 30, 50 men.
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They were carrying only a blanket.
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They have neither money nor bread
and they are going on foot to find work.
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We came upon another group several days later.
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They were returning as they'd come, without money or bread.
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How do the Hurdanos prepare the land to grow their crops?
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First they choose a spot close to the riverbank.
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Then they cut down the rockrose and heather.
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Their tools are rudimentary: pickaxe and shovel.
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These are the only tools they have.
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The plough is almost unknown.
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00:15:31,999 --> 00:15:34,336
Once the plot has been cleared...
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...they put up stone walls, without mortar.
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The wall will protect the plot from winter floods.
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One the wall is up, they have to look for...
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...fertile soil in the hills.
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They put it in sacks and carry them through the brambles to their plots.
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This usually takes several weeks.
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A thin layer of fertile soil now covers the plots.
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The first year sees an abundant harvest, but then the soil is exhausted.
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There's no nitrogen and it turns sterile.
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00:16:29,787 --> 00:16:32,777
All the plots in Las Hurdes are thin bands...
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...beside a river.
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Winter storms can destroy the work of a whole year.
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A characteristic winding river in Las Hurdes...
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...with tiny plots beside it.
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With no money or domestic animals...
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....the Hurdanos have no fertiliser.
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They have to go up into the hills to look for it.
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That's what this family is doing.
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The way is hard and footwear is scarce.
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00:17:29,772 --> 00:17:32,888
The best fertiliser is made by the Hurdanos themselves...
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...from the dry leaves of the strawberry tree.
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They fill their sacks with the precious leaves.
192
00:17:46,444 --> 00:17:49,444
But there are many snakes hereabouts.
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00:17:49,700 --> 00:17:52,902
This villager was bitten a few days ago...
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...while collecting leaves.
195
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The bite itself is hardly ever mortal.
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But, by trying to cure themselves, the Hurdanos sometimes die.
197
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Having collected their leaves the villagers return home.
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00:18:19,678 --> 00:18:22,778
They spread out the contents of their sacks indoors.
199
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People and animals alike sleep on the leaves.
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00:18:28,999 --> 00:18:32,700
The leaves gradually decompose. And, several months later:
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...they can be used as fertiliser.
202
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A house in Fragosa.
203
00:18:48,790 --> 00:18:51,900
A bed of leaves extends from the doorway.
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Every home in Las Hurdes is like this.
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A typical interior.
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The utensils are primitive and few.
207
00:19:18,990 --> 00:19:23,345
The smoke escapes where it can. There's no chimney or windows.
208
00:19:29,800 --> 00:19:32,800
In summer the water courses run almost dry.
209
00:19:33,140 --> 00:19:36,821
This leads to malaria brought by anophelese mosquitos.
210
00:19:37,335 --> 00:19:39,969
Almost everyone in Las Hurdes has malaria.
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00:19:40,370 --> 00:19:42,589
A battle against the disease is being fought...
212
00:19:42,921 --> 00:19:45,440
...by doctors in the three "Trading Posts" of Las Hurdes.
213
00:19:45,743 --> 00:19:48,304
The larvae have to rise to the surface to breathe.
214
00:19:48,620 --> 00:19:51,702
If it stays parallel to the surface it's anophelese.
215
00:19:51,990 --> 00:19:55,900
If it stays perpendicular, it's a culex larva: and harmless.
216
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The adult anophelese is found in every home.
217
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See how it rests perpendicular to the wall.
218
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The outcome of an anophelese bite.
219
00:20:12,400 --> 00:20:15,700
This man has a fever.
220
00:20:24,756 --> 00:20:27,604
We encounter many sick people in the streets.
221
00:20:35,367 --> 00:20:39,100
This sick woman on a balcony is unaware of our presence.
222
00:20:39,400 --> 00:20:41,880
Balconies are rare...
223
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...in Las Hurdes.
224
00:20:49,690 --> 00:20:53,003
There are many dwarfs and cretins in Las Altas Hurdes.
225
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Their families usually employ them as goat herds.
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Some are dangerous.
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They flee from other people or attack them with stones.
228
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They are found at nightfall in the hills...
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...as they return to their village.
230
00:21:07,280 --> 00:21:10,005
We found it very hard to film them.
231
00:21:10,400 --> 00:21:13,669
The realism of a painting by
Zurbaran or Ribera...
232
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...is nothing to reality itself.
233
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The degenaration of these people is caused mainly by hunger...
234
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...lack of hygiene, poverty and incest.
235
00:21:25,600 --> 00:21:28,121
The shortest person here is 28 years old.
236
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An older cretin.
237
00:22:03,002 --> 00:22:07,001
We were only able to film these virtual savages
with the help...
238
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...of a friend from Las Hurdes, who acted as intermediary.
239
00:22:13,789 --> 00:22:17,003
One day we saw a group of people in front of a doorway.
240
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A child has just died.
241
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The mother.
242
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A death is one of the rare events in these miserable villages.
243
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The women gather at the house of the deceased.
244
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It's hard to transport a corpse.
245
00:22:50,980 --> 00:22:53,880
Most villages don't have a cemetery.
246
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They have to take this child to the cemetery
in Nunomoral.
247
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We decided to follow.
248
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The body was placed on a trough...
249
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...and carried for several miles through the thickets.
250
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If the dead person is an adult...
251
00:23:08,280 --> 00:23:11,100
...the body is tied to a ladder
and carried to the cemetery.
252
00:23:11,400 --> 00:23:13,900
It's a journey that can take hours.
253
00:23:15,800 --> 00:23:18,200
Crossing a river with a corpse.
254
00:23:44,539 --> 00:23:47,770
Despite the misery in which the Hurdanos live...
255
00:23:47,999 --> 00:23:50,500
...their moral and religious sense is the same...
256
00:23:50,800 --> 00:23:52,540
... as anywhere else in the world.
257
00:24:01,872 --> 00:24:05,400
Each grave is indicated by a cross.
258
00:24:05,687 --> 00:24:07,300
Or by a piece of wood.
259
00:24:12,698 --> 00:24:16,999
The only luxuries in Las Hurdes are the churches.
260
00:24:17,289 --> 00:24:21,010
This is in one of the poorest villages.
261
00:24:26,690 --> 00:24:29,002
A better-off home.
262
00:24:29,289 --> 00:24:32,004
Father, son, daughter-in-law and two grandchildren.
263
00:24:34,787 --> 00:24:37,503
The paper cut-outs on the wall...
264
00:24:37,810 --> 00:24:40,800
...add a touch of interior design.
265
00:24:43,779 --> 00:24:46,880
In some villages, a woman roams the streets at night.
266
00:24:47,040 --> 00:24:49,321
She announces deaths.
267
00:24:49,590 --> 00:24:54,889
She rings a bell and stops to pray.
268
00:24:58,789 --> 00:25:02,400
Everyone lives in a single room.
269
00:25:02,739 --> 00:25:05,800
But this home is a little more comfortable.
270
00:25:06,132 --> 00:25:08,900
There's a stable on the ground floor...
271
00:25:09,228 --> 00:25:12,100
...and upstairs a kitchen and living space.
272
00:25:12,432 --> 00:25:14,340
There's even a bed.
273
00:25:28,672 --> 00:25:31,380
In winter, the Hurdanos sleep fully clothed.
274
00:25:31,650 --> 00:25:34,006
The wear their clothes until they wear out.
275
00:25:39,778 --> 00:25:41,999
This woman says:
276
00:25:42,220 --> 00:25:46,002
"Nothing keeps one awake more
than thoughts of death...
277
00:25:46,300 --> 00:25:50,001
"Or reciting an Ave Maria for someone's soul."
278
00:25:51,250 --> 00:25:54,980
We left after two months in Las Hurdes.
279
00:26:07,003 --> 00:26:12,400
The misery shown in this film is not
without remedy.
280
00:26:12,700 --> 00:26:18,780
Elsewhere in Spain, hill people, peasants and workers have achieved better conditions through mutual self-help.
281
00:26:19,156 --> 00:26:25,560
They have made demands of the authorities for a better life.
282
00:26:25,900 --> 00:26:31,460
...will give impetus to the coming elections and lead to a Popular Front government.
283
00:26:31,900 --> 00:26:36,400
The military rebellion backed by Hitler and Mussolini seeks to bring back the privileges of the rich.
284
00:26:36,789 --> 00:26:42,002
But the workers and peasants of Spain will defeat Franco and his cronies.
With the help of anti-fascists from all over the world...
285
00:26:42,300 --> 00:26:45,703
...civil war will give way to peace, work and happiness.
286
00:26:46,002 --> 00:26:49,777
And the miserable homes you saw in this film will disappear for ever. 23841
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