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[gentle music]
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♪ ♪
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- Oh, it's cold.
It's cold.
4
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So this is called a cenote.
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00:00:22,109 --> 00:00:23,893
It's a natural sinkhole.
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It's very unique
to the Yucatán Peninsula.
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They were very sacred
to the Mayans.
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They believed that this was
a passage to the underworld.
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♪ ♪
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The Maya
define the culture of Yucatán.
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As one
of the great civilizations
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00:00:46,002 --> 00:00:49,223
in Central America,
their influence is everywhere.
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This is huge!
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Their DNA runs
through every local dish.
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- [speaking Spanish]
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- And their ancient ways are
still a source of inspiration.
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- Let's let it burn
a little bit more, and...
18
00:01:02,497 --> 00:01:03,585
- More?
- We grind.
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00:01:03,628 --> 00:01:05,152
- I'm Eva Longoria,
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00:01:05,195 --> 00:01:07,763
born and bred in Texas
with Mexican-American roots,
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00:01:07,806 --> 00:01:10,070
which makes me a Texican.
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I'm exploring Mexico to see
how the people, their lands,
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and their past have shaped
a culinary tradition
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as diverse as its 32 states.
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I don't think I've ever
seen an avocado this big.
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- Here in Yucatán, there are
so many great ingredients.
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- With searingly hot weather
all year round,
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time moves at a slower pace
in Yucatán.
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- [speaking Mayan]
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- When it's taken hundreds of
years to build the pyramids,
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waiting a day for your dinner
to cook is no big deal.
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- Eight hours?
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I just hope I can be
as patient as my hosts.
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I want to taste the pig!
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[upbeat music]
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♪ ♪
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00:02:04,428 --> 00:02:07,039
Yucatán state is cut off
from the rest of Mexico
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by dense forest,
but its long coastline
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has always linked it
to the outside world.
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It has the largest
Maya population in Mexico,
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dating back 4,000 years.
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The ancient Maya were
pioneering and industrious.
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They thrived here
until the arrival
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of the Spanish conquistadors
in the 1500s.
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The region's turbulent history
and unique geography
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have heavily influenced
the cuisine.
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So today,
I am trying cochinita pibil,
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which is probably the most
famous dish from the Yucatán.
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You can't come here
without having it.
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It's known worldwide.
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Hola.
- Hola.
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Buenos días.
- Hola. Buenos días.
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- Buenos días.
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[speaking Spanish]
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- [speaking Spanish]
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Now, there are variations
on the recipe.
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00:03:01,790 --> 00:03:04,053
But cochinita pibil
is slow-cooked pork
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00:03:04,096 --> 00:03:06,621
marinated
in a tangy spice mix...
59
00:03:06,664 --> 00:03:08,405
Oh, wow.
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00:03:08,449 --> 00:03:11,103
Traditionally served in a
taco with pickled red onions.
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00:03:11,147 --> 00:03:12,583
Look at that.
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00:03:12,627 --> 00:03:14,716
You know it's good when
there's pork fat dripping out.
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00:03:17,632 --> 00:03:19,111
Mmm.
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I'm going to the award-winning
restaurant, IXI'IM,
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00:03:25,248 --> 00:03:29,426
where cochinita pibil is
transformed into fine dining.
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It's run by Luis Ronzón,
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one of the region's
most exciting chefs,
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who makes his cochinita pibil
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using both ancient
and modern techniques.
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Hello!
- Hello.
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How you doing?
- Good.
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Soy Eva.
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- Mucho gusto
Nice meeting you.
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- Nice to meet you.
- Welcome.
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00:03:46,661 --> 00:03:47,923
- Thank you.
I'm excited.
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00:03:47,966 --> 00:03:50,708
I've heard amazing things
about your restaurant.
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Luis starts
by cooking the pork
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the traditional Mayan way:
outdoors.
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- This pig is a descendant
of the same breed
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00:04:06,158 --> 00:04:08,944
that the Spanish prize
for jamón ibérico,
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00:04:08,987 --> 00:04:11,207
one of the world's
finest hams.
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- I've never seen this orange.
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00:04:19,520 --> 00:04:20,782
- Yeah.
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- You use sour orange.
85
00:04:23,872 --> 00:04:26,048
The Spanish brought
this citrus gem,
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00:04:26,091 --> 00:04:28,485
which is now a Yucatán staple.
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00:04:28,529 --> 00:04:30,008
Here, it's mixed with spices
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from
the neighboring Caribbean.
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- So...
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00:04:36,711 --> 00:04:37,842
- Mm-hmm.
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00:04:48,200 --> 00:04:51,073
- The marinated pig is
entombed in a steel box
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00:04:51,116 --> 00:04:53,510
before being put in the oven,
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which is literally a freshly
dug hole in the ground.
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What do you call the oven?
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What is--P-I-B?
- P-I-B.
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00:05:03,825 --> 00:05:05,000
- Oh.
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00:05:06,784 --> 00:05:07,829
- Pib style.
- No?
98
00:05:16,925 --> 00:05:19,493
- It is basically a crock pot
in the ground.
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00:05:19,536 --> 00:05:20,668
- Yeah, kind of.
Yeah.
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00:05:20,711 --> 00:05:22,539
You couldn't have
said it better.
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00:05:22,583 --> 00:05:24,236
- Wouldn't it be easier just
to put it in a crock pot?
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00:05:24,280 --> 00:05:27,196
- Yeah. No, 'cause you don't
have the flavor of the soil.
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00:05:27,239 --> 00:05:28,589
- Yes, the flavor...
- You know?
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- Of the region.
- Of the branches
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and everything.
- Of the tierra.
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00:05:31,505 --> 00:05:34,856
- Right. And this is
a romantic technique, no?
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- A very romantic technique.
- It is.
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00:05:36,423 --> 00:05:37,902
- I mean, it's romantic
because I'm not the one
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digging the dirt, but yeah.
- Yeah.
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- This ancient way
of slow-cooking is ingenious.
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Once buried,
the pig needs no supervision,
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and the meat is protected
from hungry animals.
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I mean, what's not to like?
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Oh, but there is a downside.
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- So we're gonna leave it here
for eight hours.
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- Eight hours?
- Yeah.
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00:06:04,929 --> 00:06:06,496
- Thank goodness for that.
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I just wish our crew would
hurry up and get over here.
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00:06:08,977 --> 00:06:11,022
- I'm dying
to eat the pig, guys!
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- [laughs] We're hungry.
- Come on!
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I want to taste the pig!
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I mean, if you could
smell this right now,
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you'd be yelling for it too.
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- So this one,
we buried yesterday.
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- The big reveal.
- Yes. Yeah.
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00:06:26,690 --> 00:06:29,389
- [gasps] Oh, wow.
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00:06:32,087 --> 00:06:34,568
Can I take the banana leaf off?
- Yeah, please.
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00:06:34,611 --> 00:06:36,091
- Look at this!
[gasps]
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Look at that.
Look at the juice.
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Oh, my God.
131
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It's just, like, falling off!
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Oh, my gosh.
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Oh, my gosh.
Well, I need more now.
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00:06:52,237 --> 00:06:56,372
I mean, you can taste
the comino, the clove.
135
00:06:56,416 --> 00:06:58,766
That sour orange really is--
- Yeah.
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00:06:58,809 --> 00:07:02,030
Sour orange and the spices, no?
137
00:07:02,073 --> 00:07:04,206
Wow.
- Mm-hmm.
138
00:07:04,249 --> 00:07:06,034
Mmm!
139
00:07:06,077 --> 00:07:07,992
- My mouth is watering now.
- Watching me?
140
00:07:08,036 --> 00:07:09,429
- Yeah.
- [chuckles]
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00:07:09,472 --> 00:07:11,822
- So I wanted you to try,
like, the normal way.
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00:07:11,866 --> 00:07:12,910
- Mm-hmm.
- And also,
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00:07:12,954 --> 00:07:14,956
I want you to try my way,
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00:07:14,999 --> 00:07:17,611
which is the way we serve it at
the IXI'IM restaurant, so...
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- OK.
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This is beautiful!
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Here in his kitchen garden,
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Luis grows his produce
the same way as the Maya.
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00:07:35,411 --> 00:07:37,761
- Now, I'm sure the ancient
Maya would feel at home
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00:07:37,805 --> 00:07:40,111
in Luis's garden,
but what would they think
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00:07:40,155 --> 00:07:42,374
of his breathtaking
dining room?
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00:07:46,466 --> 00:07:49,077
But I'm at the heart
of the action--in the kitchen.
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00:07:53,211 --> 00:07:55,083
- What? Yes!
- Yeah? OK.
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00:07:55,126 --> 00:07:57,346
- Yes. Don't threaten me
with a good time.
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00:07:57,389 --> 00:07:59,000
[laughs]
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Salud.
- Cheers.
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00:08:00,218 --> 00:08:01,655
- Luis is from Mexico City,
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00:08:01,698 --> 00:08:04,788
but it's Yucatán
that's captured his heart.
159
00:08:04,832 --> 00:08:07,008
So what was your favorite thing
about the cuisine
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00:08:07,051 --> 00:08:09,097
when you moved here?
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- Yes? This dish?
- Yeah, yeah.
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00:08:12,840 --> 00:08:13,928
- Oh, yeah.
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00:08:17,322 --> 00:08:19,499
- Really?
- Yeah.
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00:08:19,542 --> 00:08:22,806
- Luis has swapped out the
traditional pickled red onions
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for his own sides of sweet
potato, parsnip, and beets.
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00:08:27,071 --> 00:08:29,160
Just a little bit of butter,
guys.
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00:08:29,204 --> 00:08:30,640
- Yeah.
- Just a little bit of butter.
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- Salt.
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- And that's it.
- And that's it.
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00:08:35,950 --> 00:08:39,301
- I'm just gonna wait here
while he roasts those beets.
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The pig from the pib
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is about to have
a sophisticated makeover.
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- Watch out. Aah!
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00:08:53,620 --> 00:08:57,275
- We're gonna make, like,
a very crispy skin, no?
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00:08:57,319 --> 00:08:59,408
- That's a good idea.
- Yeah.
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00:08:59,451 --> 00:09:01,018
- I concur.
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00:09:01,062 --> 00:09:02,542
[crunches]
- Do you hear that?
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00:09:02,585 --> 00:09:03,847
- Yes.
- That's a crispy skin.
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00:09:03,891 --> 00:09:06,067
- Yes!
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00:09:06,110 --> 00:09:10,071
- And I'm gonna put it in here.
- Oh, that's beautiful!
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00:09:10,114 --> 00:09:11,376
- So that's the way
we plate it.
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00:09:11,420 --> 00:09:12,726
- Look at that presentation.
- Yeah.
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00:09:15,642 --> 00:09:18,601
- The puréed vegetables
and habanero chili salsa
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turns this dish
into a rainbow of color.
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♪ ♪
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[gasps]
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I've never had a meal
like this.
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One of the best meals
of my life.
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00:09:39,013 --> 00:09:40,101
- Thank you.
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00:09:42,582 --> 00:09:45,628
- This is Luis' love letter
to Yucatán,
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00:09:45,672 --> 00:09:46,716
to the people
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00:09:46,760 --> 00:09:49,937
and the land
he now calls home.
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00:09:49,980 --> 00:09:51,112
I'm just gonna--
don't mind me.
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00:09:51,155 --> 00:09:53,418
I'm just gonna stay here
in the kitchen.
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00:09:53,462 --> 00:09:54,768
You have work to do.
Go ahead.
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00:09:54,811 --> 00:09:56,726
- [laughs]
197
00:09:56,770 --> 00:09:58,206
- I'm so happy.
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00:10:04,908 --> 00:10:06,867
[upbeat music]
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00:10:06,910 --> 00:10:09,217
♪ ♪
200
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- Mérida is the capital
of Yucatán,
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00:10:14,265 --> 00:10:16,877
and it's a city
that runs on its stomach.
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00:10:16,920 --> 00:10:18,400
Hola.
[laughs]
203
00:10:18,443 --> 00:10:20,445
I'm here to meet one
of Mérida's best chefs
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00:10:20,489 --> 00:10:22,317
and gastronomic pioneers.
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00:10:22,360 --> 00:10:23,971
- Mucho gusto.
- Mucho gusto.
206
00:10:24,014 --> 00:10:25,929
- [speaking Spanish]
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00:10:25,973 --> 00:10:28,323
This market sells all
the spices that we will need
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00:10:28,366 --> 00:10:30,499
to cook later on in the night.
- OK. OK.
209
00:10:30,542 --> 00:10:32,327
- So you want to take a look?
- Yes.
210
00:10:32,370 --> 00:10:33,937
- Let's go.
- I love a spice market.
211
00:10:33,981 --> 00:10:37,288
- Chef Roberto Solís is famous
for putting a new spin
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00:10:37,332 --> 00:10:40,465
on the foundation
of Yucatecan cuisine:
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00:10:40,509 --> 00:10:41,641
el recado.
214
00:10:43,904 --> 00:10:45,383
What is el recado?
215
00:10:45,427 --> 00:10:47,647
I've never heard that word
until I got to the Yucatán.
216
00:10:52,608 --> 00:10:54,349
- El recado is
a colored paste
217
00:10:54,392 --> 00:10:56,264
made from a combination
of spices.
218
00:10:56,307 --> 00:10:58,353
They come in lots
of different flavors
219
00:10:58,396 --> 00:11:00,485
and are used everywhere here,
220
00:11:00,529 --> 00:11:04,054
but you'll struggle to find
el recado outside Yucatán.
221
00:11:05,621 --> 00:11:07,101
- No. No.
222
00:11:07,144 --> 00:11:08,319
- No?
- Just here.
223
00:11:08,363 --> 00:11:10,060
- Why?
That's so weird.
224
00:11:10,104 --> 00:11:12,584
- That's weird.
[laughter]
225
00:11:12,628 --> 00:11:14,499
- Because it feels
like such a good idea.
226
00:11:14,543 --> 00:11:15,675
- Yeah.
- Like, to do a paste
227
00:11:15,718 --> 00:11:18,199
on chicken and fish and pork.
- Yeah.
228
00:11:20,549 --> 00:11:23,160
- Is this their family recipe?
229
00:11:23,204 --> 00:11:25,467
- [speaking Spanish]
- [speaking Spanish]
230
00:11:25,510 --> 00:11:28,035
- For generations,
Don Enrique's family
231
00:11:28,078 --> 00:11:31,299
have been recado alchemists.
232
00:11:35,912 --> 00:11:37,044
- Uh-huh.
233
00:11:57,107 --> 00:11:59,066
- It's much smokier.
- Yes.
234
00:12:00,894 --> 00:12:02,896
- No.
235
00:12:02,939 --> 00:12:05,072
Many of these spices
came to the Yucatán
236
00:12:05,115 --> 00:12:06,638
over 500 years ago,
237
00:12:06,682 --> 00:12:09,554
when the region was colonized
by the Spanish.
238
00:12:09,598 --> 00:12:11,861
And you can still see
a strong European influence
239
00:12:11,905 --> 00:12:13,733
all around Mérida.
240
00:12:16,213 --> 00:12:19,347
Today, people flock
to its thriving food scene.
241
00:12:19,390 --> 00:12:21,436
Twice voted
capital of culture,
242
00:12:21,479 --> 00:12:23,438
it's a magnet for creativity.
243
00:12:26,136 --> 00:12:28,095
Roberto's been
at the forefront
244
00:12:28,138 --> 00:12:31,228
of that creativity here
in Mérida and in the Yucatán,
245
00:12:31,272 --> 00:12:33,448
so let's see what he's up to.
246
00:12:33,491 --> 00:12:35,537
Roberto's restaurant
is called Huniik,
247
00:12:35,580 --> 00:12:38,670
which means "unique spirit"
in Mayan.
248
00:12:38,714 --> 00:12:41,935
Here, it's all about turning
ancient recipes on their head.
249
00:12:41,978 --> 00:12:43,110
Wow.
250
00:12:43,153 --> 00:12:46,722
Oh, this is beautiful!
251
00:12:46,766 --> 00:12:48,593
This is gorgeous!
252
00:12:48,637 --> 00:12:50,247
- [chuckles]
- How are you?
253
00:12:50,291 --> 00:12:51,814
Oh, you look so handsome
254
00:12:51,858 --> 00:12:53,076
in your chef's clothes.
- Welcome.
255
00:12:53,120 --> 00:12:54,512
[laughs]
256
00:12:54,556 --> 00:12:56,297
- Known as the Recado King,
257
00:12:56,340 --> 00:13:00,562
Roberto's star of the menu
tonight is his black recado.
258
00:13:00,605 --> 00:13:02,477
Are we doing the spices here?
- Well, yes.
259
00:13:02,520 --> 00:13:03,739
We're gonna grind
the spices here.
260
00:13:03,783 --> 00:13:04,827
- All right.
- But actually,
261
00:13:04,871 --> 00:13:06,873
we're gonna
burn the spices here.
262
00:13:06,916 --> 00:13:08,657
- Ooh!
- [laughs]
263
00:13:08,700 --> 00:13:11,181
We have onion, oregano,
cumin, garlic,
264
00:13:11,225 --> 00:13:14,271
annatto seeds, the pepper.
- Uh-huh.
265
00:13:14,315 --> 00:13:17,666
Roberto is making his
recado negro from scratch...
266
00:13:17,709 --> 00:13:20,321
- So if you want to start...
- Yeah. What do I do?
267
00:13:20,364 --> 00:13:21,975
With me as his wingman.
268
00:13:22,018 --> 00:13:23,150
We put it in here?
- Yeah.
269
00:13:23,193 --> 00:13:25,413
- Oh, my God!
[laughter]
270
00:13:25,456 --> 00:13:26,370
- Good.
- I already--
271
00:13:26,414 --> 00:13:27,589
I already messed up. OK.
272
00:13:27,632 --> 00:13:29,156
- Put some cumin.
Just a little bit.
273
00:13:29,199 --> 00:13:30,679
- A little bit?
- Like a spoon.
274
00:13:30,722 --> 00:13:32,072
Yeah, that's good.
- What is this one
275
00:13:32,115 --> 00:13:33,377
called again?
- Annatto seeds.
276
00:13:33,421 --> 00:13:35,118
You can put more, more,
more, more, more, more.
277
00:13:35,162 --> 00:13:36,685
- The spices are
lightly toasted,
278
00:13:36,728 --> 00:13:38,513
but when it comes
to the chili...
279
00:13:38,556 --> 00:13:40,863
It's burning!
[laughs]
280
00:13:40,907 --> 00:13:42,169
We crank up the heat.
281
00:13:42,212 --> 00:13:43,735
- The more
you burn the chili...
282
00:13:43,779 --> 00:13:45,825
- The less hot.
- The less hot.
283
00:13:45,868 --> 00:13:48,262
Now, you can start smelling.
- Yeah.
284
00:13:48,305 --> 00:13:50,307
Oh, it's smoking.
- [laughs]
285
00:13:50,351 --> 00:13:53,267
- Wave it towards you.
- [laughs]
286
00:13:53,310 --> 00:13:55,356
- It smells amazing.
287
00:13:55,399 --> 00:13:58,185
Is this what makes it black,
is that char?
288
00:13:58,228 --> 00:13:59,534
- Yeah.
- Yeah?
289
00:13:59,577 --> 00:14:02,406
And he really does mean
"burn the chili."
290
00:14:02,450 --> 00:14:03,843
[coughing]
- Yeah, yeah.
291
00:14:03,886 --> 00:14:05,670
[laughs]
292
00:14:08,195 --> 00:14:09,587
[coughing continues]
293
00:14:09,631 --> 00:14:11,763
Are you guys OK?
- [laughs]
294
00:14:11,807 --> 00:14:12,982
- Is it just me?
295
00:14:15,811 --> 00:14:18,205
- Let's let them burn
a little bit more, and...
296
00:14:18,248 --> 00:14:19,597
- More?
- We grind.
297
00:14:19,641 --> 00:14:22,600
- This goes
against all my instincts.
298
00:14:22,644 --> 00:14:25,473
And now, we grind it?
- Yeah, let's go.
299
00:14:27,823 --> 00:14:28,780
- OK.
300
00:14:32,262 --> 00:14:33,524
- Oh, my God.
301
00:14:33,568 --> 00:14:35,613
Are we sure
this is gonna taste good?
302
00:14:35,657 --> 00:14:37,833
- Yeah, of course.
[laughs]
303
00:14:37,877 --> 00:14:39,879
- And all of this
is just for the flavoring.
304
00:14:39,922 --> 00:14:41,315
We haven't even
started cooking yet.
305
00:14:41,358 --> 00:14:42,490
Is this right?
- Yeah.
306
00:14:42,533 --> 00:14:44,057
- Oh, yeah.
The paste is coming.
307
00:14:44,100 --> 00:14:45,710
- Yes.
308
00:14:45,754 --> 00:14:48,539
[laughs]
309
00:14:48,583 --> 00:14:51,412
- All right.
I think I just pulled a muscle.
310
00:14:51,455 --> 00:14:53,544
- I think we are,
yeah, just finished.
311
00:14:53,588 --> 00:14:55,590
Amazing.
312
00:14:55,633 --> 00:14:58,288
- How do you know
if it has the right balance?
313
00:14:58,332 --> 00:15:01,291
Mmm. Ooh, that smells great.
- Yeah.
314
00:15:02,902 --> 00:15:04,077
It's good.
315
00:15:04,120 --> 00:15:05,295
- Now, we're gonna add...
- The orange.
316
00:15:05,339 --> 00:15:06,906
- The sour orange.
317
00:15:06,949 --> 00:15:08,733
Why am I doing
all the work here?
318
00:15:08,777 --> 00:15:10,735
- [laughs]
[speaking Spanish]
319
00:15:10,779 --> 00:15:13,434
- I don't know how much to put.
320
00:15:13,477 --> 00:15:16,654
- [speaking Spanish]
321
00:15:16,698 --> 00:15:18,613
- Then you mix it, no?
- Yeah.
322
00:15:18,656 --> 00:15:21,181
It looks so weird, huh?
- No, it looks amazing.
323
00:15:21,224 --> 00:15:22,791
- You're like, "Yeah."
[laughs]
324
00:15:24,793 --> 00:15:26,447
- Oh, wow.
Oh, my God.
325
00:15:26,490 --> 00:15:29,319
That is so complicated.
326
00:15:29,363 --> 00:15:30,799
- [laughs] Yes.
327
00:15:32,844 --> 00:15:35,412
- Let's put this on something.
- Yes.
328
00:15:37,675 --> 00:15:39,764
So first, we're gonna
get this white onion.
329
00:15:39,808 --> 00:15:41,027
- Mm-hmm.
330
00:15:41,070 --> 00:15:43,812
- Are we making
Yucatán onion rings?
331
00:15:43,855 --> 00:15:45,770
- I think it's a bit
more than that, but...
332
00:15:45,814 --> 00:15:47,859
[laughter]
- I'm just teasing.
333
00:15:47,903 --> 00:15:50,253
This is one of Roberto's
signature dishes:
334
00:15:50,297 --> 00:15:51,646
onion tempura.
335
00:15:51,689 --> 00:15:53,778
With the recado?
- With the recado.
336
00:15:53,822 --> 00:15:55,302
Yeah. Why not, right?
- Oh, my God.
337
00:15:55,345 --> 00:15:59,175
Roberto adds the recado negro
to the tempura batter.
338
00:15:59,219 --> 00:16:00,829
- So I'm gonna dip this.
339
00:16:00,872 --> 00:16:03,353
- And like everything else
in Yucatán,
340
00:16:03,397 --> 00:16:05,399
it's a slow process.
341
00:16:09,403 --> 00:16:10,970
- Yeah.
- [laughs]
342
00:16:11,013 --> 00:16:13,102
- It's time-consuming.
- Yeah, it is.
343
00:16:15,539 --> 00:16:18,499
- Oh, my God.
These are gorgeous.
344
00:16:18,542 --> 00:16:20,501
So the black
doesn't mean it's burnt.
345
00:16:20,544 --> 00:16:21,981
It's just the color.
- Exactly.
346
00:16:23,069 --> 00:16:23,983
- Mm-hmm.
347
00:16:29,814 --> 00:16:31,642
- Oh.
348
00:16:34,471 --> 00:16:35,995
- These beautiful
blackened onions
349
00:16:36,038 --> 00:16:38,823
are presented
on a bed of charcoal.
350
00:16:38,867 --> 00:16:40,521
Have you had
to tell some clients
351
00:16:40,564 --> 00:16:42,044
not to eat the charcoal?
- You know, it's funny
352
00:16:42,088 --> 00:16:44,699
because some people just--
- 'Cause it's the same color.
353
00:16:44,742 --> 00:16:47,484
- And everybody like...
[laughter]
354
00:16:47,528 --> 00:16:48,877
It was so funny.
355
00:16:48,920 --> 00:16:51,053
- You want to confuse people?
- Yeah.
356
00:16:51,097 --> 00:16:52,924
Well, I want to--
- Is this the goal?
357
00:17:03,544 --> 00:17:05,198
- Mmm.
358
00:17:05,241 --> 00:17:07,243
- You know?
- Wow.
359
00:17:07,287 --> 00:17:11,117
For as complex as that paste
was, it's not overwhelming.
360
00:17:11,160 --> 00:17:12,161
- No, it's not overwhelming.
- You're not like--
361
00:17:12,205 --> 00:17:13,641
- It's just giving you
some creaminess.
362
00:17:13,684 --> 00:17:15,599
- Mmm.
- Crunch, creaminess.
363
00:17:15,643 --> 00:17:17,036
- I've never had anything
like this.
364
00:17:17,079 --> 00:17:20,909
This is gorgeous,
and it's delicious.
365
00:17:20,952 --> 00:17:22,519
- Felicidades.
- Gracias.
366
00:17:22,563 --> 00:17:26,132
- I'm just gonna stand here
while you make the next dish.
367
00:17:30,919 --> 00:17:33,835
Once more, Roberto's toying
with my taste buds,
368
00:17:33,878 --> 00:17:36,446
serving coconut ice cream
with grilled mango
369
00:17:36,490 --> 00:17:39,232
coated in his recado negro.
370
00:17:39,275 --> 00:17:41,843
Smoky with a hint of spice.
371
00:17:43,279 --> 00:17:45,325
Is it hot?
- Yeah.
372
00:17:45,368 --> 00:17:46,543
- Oh.
373
00:17:49,590 --> 00:17:52,723
[laughter]
374
00:17:53,724 --> 00:17:55,074
It is so good!
375
00:17:55,117 --> 00:17:56,423
- Yeah, it is.
- I think I'm gonna cry!
376
00:17:56,466 --> 00:17:59,165
[laughter]
377
00:17:59,208 --> 00:18:02,951
I thought that recado was gonna
overpower this whole thing.
378
00:18:02,994 --> 00:18:05,084
- You know what it reminds me?
When you put marshmallow
379
00:18:05,127 --> 00:18:07,260
on the grill, you know?
- Yes, yes!
380
00:18:07,303 --> 00:18:09,044
It reminds me of that.
- The texture, you know?
381
00:18:09,088 --> 00:18:11,786
- It has a crispy texture.
- Yes, exactly.
382
00:18:11,829 --> 00:18:13,831
- Oh, my God, this is like...
- Exactly.
383
00:18:13,875 --> 00:18:16,486
- I'm in heaven.
- [laughs]
384
00:18:16,530 --> 00:18:19,707
- Now I know why you're
the king of the recado negro.
385
00:18:19,750 --> 00:18:21,926
- Yes, salud.
- Gracias, Roberto.
386
00:18:21,970 --> 00:18:23,145
- Gracias.
- Muchas gracias.
387
00:18:23,189 --> 00:18:24,842
Wow.
388
00:18:32,459 --> 00:18:34,287
[cheering]
389
00:18:34,330 --> 00:18:36,463
- Most of us have heard
of the Day of the Dead.
390
00:18:36,506 --> 00:18:38,769
It's one of Mexico's
biggest celebrations,
391
00:18:38,813 --> 00:18:40,728
and my personal favorite,
392
00:18:40,771 --> 00:18:42,904
where spirits come back
to eat, drink,
393
00:18:42,947 --> 00:18:44,558
and party with the living.
394
00:18:44,601 --> 00:18:47,996
This celebration is rooted
in Aztec and Spanish cultures
395
00:18:48,039 --> 00:18:52,479
and share similarities with
the Maya ceremony Hanal Pixan,
396
00:18:52,522 --> 00:18:54,263
meaning "food for the souls."
397
00:18:54,307 --> 00:18:57,223
[upbeat music]
398
00:18:57,266 --> 00:18:59,747
♪ ♪
399
00:18:59,790 --> 00:19:02,010
Hola.
- Hola, Eva.
400
00:19:02,750 --> 00:19:03,925
- [speaking Spanish]
401
00:19:08,147 --> 00:19:10,323
[rooster crows]
402
00:19:10,366 --> 00:19:12,716
- Two-thirds of the population
of Yucatán
403
00:19:12,760 --> 00:19:14,544
are of Mayan descent.
404
00:19:14,588 --> 00:19:15,937
And at the heart
of the peninsula
405
00:19:15,980 --> 00:19:18,200
is the Maya town of Xocén.
406
00:19:23,118 --> 00:19:25,816
- I've come to help
Chef Alberto Cucu
407
00:19:25,860 --> 00:19:28,297
prepare one
of the world's oldest dishes.
408
00:19:35,478 --> 00:19:36,610
- Mm-hmm.
409
00:19:39,526 --> 00:19:40,614
- Mm-hmm.
410
00:19:50,406 --> 00:19:51,320
- Sí.
411
00:19:52,626 --> 00:19:53,757
- Uh-huh.
412
00:19:57,108 --> 00:19:58,545
- Mm-hmm.
413
00:19:58,588 --> 00:20:01,330
- Red is incredibly symbolic
to the Maya.
414
00:20:01,374 --> 00:20:04,115
The color of blood,
it represents the sunrise
415
00:20:04,159 --> 00:20:06,074
and the rejection of darkness.
416
00:20:20,915 --> 00:20:22,438
- I grew up making tamales.
417
00:20:22,482 --> 00:20:24,832
And in my home,
it's still a family tradition.
418
00:20:24,875 --> 00:20:28,052
Oh, my God!
It's peeling right off!
419
00:20:32,927 --> 00:20:34,755
- Hola.
- Hola.
420
00:20:34,798 --> 00:20:36,191
- Mucho gusto, señora.
421
00:20:36,235 --> 00:20:38,889
- ¿No? No habla español?
- Uh-uh.
422
00:20:38,933 --> 00:20:42,371
- My Spanish isn't great, but
it's way better than my Mayan.
423
00:20:42,415 --> 00:20:45,766
I'm hoping the language
of food is universal.
424
00:20:50,423 --> 00:20:52,425
[speaking Spanish]
425
00:20:52,468 --> 00:20:54,122
- OK, their tamale technique
426
00:20:54,165 --> 00:20:55,776
is totally different
than mine.
427
00:20:55,819 --> 00:20:57,386
God, you guys are fast.
428
00:20:57,430 --> 00:20:58,561
[laughter]
429
00:21:02,478 --> 00:21:04,393
- Así.
430
00:21:04,437 --> 00:21:07,266
- Oh. Oh, see?
That's already a tip.
431
00:21:07,309 --> 00:21:10,181
- [speaking Mayan]
432
00:21:17,145 --> 00:21:19,887
- These tamales are filled
with a Maya corn sauce
433
00:21:19,930 --> 00:21:23,630
before adding tomatoes
and shredded chicken.
434
00:21:23,673 --> 00:21:24,848
Mmm.
435
00:21:27,329 --> 00:21:28,287
- [laughs]
436
00:21:31,768 --> 00:21:33,204
- ¿Sí? Yeah!
- Uh-huh.
437
00:21:33,248 --> 00:21:37,078
[laughter]
438
00:21:37,121 --> 00:21:40,647
Being Maya tamales, there's
only one way to cook them.
439
00:21:49,395 --> 00:21:51,440
- I'm starting to appreciate
just how much
440
00:21:51,484 --> 00:21:53,703
cooking underground matters
to the Maya.
441
00:21:53,747 --> 00:21:57,881
It represents the cycle
of life, death, and rebirth.
442
00:22:01,537 --> 00:22:04,671
- [speaking Spanish]
443
00:22:12,461 --> 00:22:16,247
- [speaking Mayan]
444
00:22:16,291 --> 00:22:17,901
- Maybe it's because
I grew up on a ranch
445
00:22:17,945 --> 00:22:19,512
cooking from scratch
with my family
446
00:22:19,555 --> 00:22:21,862
or because I have
some Mayan ancestry,
447
00:22:21,905 --> 00:22:26,040
I don't know, but this feels
very comforting and familiar.
448
00:22:29,391 --> 00:22:31,872
Oh, wow.
449
00:22:38,182 --> 00:22:39,923
Look at that.
That's super crispy.
450
00:22:39,967 --> 00:22:41,882
These are
a very different texture
451
00:22:41,925 --> 00:22:43,362
from the steamed ones I make.
452
00:22:49,411 --> 00:22:51,587
- Wow.
453
00:22:51,631 --> 00:22:53,372
You guys,
look at this.
454
00:22:57,245 --> 00:22:59,290
Mmm.
455
00:22:59,334 --> 00:23:03,207
It's crispy on the outside
but really soft on the inside.
456
00:23:03,251 --> 00:23:04,208
Wow.
457
00:23:05,688 --> 00:23:07,647
Mmm.
458
00:23:07,690 --> 00:23:09,518
[laughter]
- Pollo.
459
00:23:11,738 --> 00:23:13,392
- Mmm.
460
00:23:13,435 --> 00:23:16,569
I might have to start cooking
my tamales underground, y'all.
461
00:23:16,612 --> 00:23:18,745
The Maya tradition
of cooking underground
462
00:23:18,788 --> 00:23:20,181
is still alive today,
463
00:23:20,224 --> 00:23:22,575
and it keeps them connected
to their land,
464
00:23:22,618 --> 00:23:25,273
to their history,
and their culture.
465
00:23:28,755 --> 00:23:29,886
- Uh-huh.
466
00:23:35,762 --> 00:23:37,154
- Mm.
467
00:23:40,636 --> 00:23:42,464
- Mm-hmm.
468
00:23:42,508 --> 00:23:44,684
- Uh-huh.
469
00:23:44,727 --> 00:23:45,946
- Uh-huh.
- Muchas gracias.
470
00:23:45,989 --> 00:23:47,948
The more I learn
about Yucatán culture,
471
00:23:47,991 --> 00:23:50,037
the more
I fall in love with it.
472
00:23:50,080 --> 00:23:52,213
Muchas gracias.
- Uh-huh.
473
00:23:59,699 --> 00:24:01,831
[upbeat music]
474
00:24:04,660 --> 00:24:06,532
It's my turn
to get starstruck
475
00:24:06,575 --> 00:24:08,925
and meet a chef
I've admired for years:
476
00:24:08,969 --> 00:24:10,536
Regina Escalante.
477
00:24:10,579 --> 00:24:12,146
[gasps]
478
00:24:12,189 --> 00:24:14,627
- Hola. Mucho gusto.
- It's so nice to meet you.
479
00:24:14,670 --> 00:24:16,324
I'm such a fan!
480
00:24:16,367 --> 00:24:18,457
- Oh, thank you
for coming to Merci!
481
00:24:18,500 --> 00:24:20,067
Please, have a seat.
- Yes, of course.
482
00:24:20,110 --> 00:24:21,982
Regina trained as a chef
in France
483
00:24:22,025 --> 00:24:23,636
before returning home
to Mérida
484
00:24:23,679 --> 00:24:26,987
to open her wildly popular
restaurant, Merci.
485
00:24:27,030 --> 00:24:28,336
The thing I love about her is
486
00:24:28,379 --> 00:24:30,686
she obsesses
about every detail
487
00:24:30,730 --> 00:24:34,864
but particularly the mother
of all ingredients: salt.
488
00:24:34,908 --> 00:24:37,780
- And you know what's funny?
That when I was in France,
489
00:24:37,824 --> 00:24:40,261
I learned about all
these different types of salt.
490
00:24:40,304 --> 00:24:42,002
And for my surprise,
when I came to Mérida
491
00:24:42,045 --> 00:24:43,786
and I learned that
the quality of the product
492
00:24:43,830 --> 00:24:45,832
that we have here
was just, like,
493
00:24:45,875 --> 00:24:48,095
really above and beyond on--
494
00:24:48,138 --> 00:24:50,227
- A global level?
- Yes, on a global level.
495
00:24:50,271 --> 00:24:52,534
- So you traveled the world
just to return home
496
00:24:52,578 --> 00:24:54,536
and find you guys have
the best salt in the world.
497
00:24:54,580 --> 00:24:55,537
- Yes.
- [laughs]
498
00:24:55,581 --> 00:24:57,844
- Oh, yes.
I definitely think so.
499
00:25:02,152 --> 00:25:05,808
- 50 miles west
of Mérida is Celestún,
500
00:25:05,852 --> 00:25:07,636
an Instagrammer's paradise.
501
00:25:07,680 --> 00:25:10,204
Pink lakes, flamingos,
blue skies,
502
00:25:10,247 --> 00:25:13,990
and blinding white salt flats.
503
00:25:14,034 --> 00:25:16,079
Were you born in Yucatán?
- Yes.
504
00:25:16,123 --> 00:25:18,212
I was born and raised
in Mérida.
505
00:25:18,255 --> 00:25:19,866
Well, my mother came
to live here
506
00:25:19,909 --> 00:25:23,217
when she was from the U.S.,
when she was 18 years old.
507
00:25:23,260 --> 00:25:24,827
She was born in Pennsylvania.
508
00:25:24,871 --> 00:25:26,176
- So she's American.
- Yeah.
509
00:25:26,220 --> 00:25:28,396
- We're both Mexican-American.
- Yes!
510
00:25:28,439 --> 00:25:31,921
- Do you ever find it difficult
to navigate that identity,
511
00:25:31,965 --> 00:25:33,357
or you love it?
512
00:25:33,401 --> 00:25:35,403
- Growing up in Mérida,
for me,
513
00:25:35,446 --> 00:25:37,361
I used to be very shy about it.
514
00:25:37,405 --> 00:25:38,928
- I was a fish out of water.
515
00:25:38,972 --> 00:25:40,103
You know,
people always say, like,
516
00:25:40,147 --> 00:25:42,366
"Oh, you're half Mexican,
half American?"
517
00:25:42,410 --> 00:25:44,325
I'm like, "No.
I'm 100% Mexican..."
518
00:25:44,368 --> 00:25:46,414
- Yes, I know.
- "And 100% American
519
00:25:46,457 --> 00:25:48,590
at the same time,
all the time."
520
00:25:48,634 --> 00:25:50,287
- That's what I try to do
with my cooking,
521
00:25:50,331 --> 00:25:51,941
just to be unapologetic
522
00:25:51,985 --> 00:25:55,075
and just like the confidence
that you give out to the world.
523
00:25:55,118 --> 00:25:56,946
- Oh, are these the salt lakes?
524
00:25:56,990 --> 00:25:58,992
- Yes, this is where it starts.
525
00:26:01,081 --> 00:26:05,215
- The salt flats of Celestún
produce many forms of salt,
526
00:26:05,259 --> 00:26:07,827
but flor de sal is the purest.
527
00:26:07,870 --> 00:26:11,395
It's the magical result
of climate and geography.
528
00:26:11,439 --> 00:26:14,268
Salty seawater combines
with sweet rain,
529
00:26:14,311 --> 00:26:16,531
slowly evaporating
in the tropical heat.
530
00:26:16,575 --> 00:26:20,666
And it leaves behind
this pinkish-colored crystal.
531
00:26:22,232 --> 00:26:23,538
- Hola, Manuel.
- Hola. Buenos días.
532
00:26:23,582 --> 00:26:24,757
- Presentó Eva.
533
00:26:24,800 --> 00:26:26,454
- Hola. Eva. Mucho gusto.
- Mucho gusto.
534
00:26:26,497 --> 00:26:28,630
[speaking Spanish]
- [speaking Spanish]
535
00:26:46,474 --> 00:26:47,910
- Oh, wow.
536
00:26:47,954 --> 00:26:49,346
- Sí.
537
00:26:49,390 --> 00:26:51,827
- The crystals here,
they're much bigger
538
00:26:51,871 --> 00:26:53,742
than, like, a regular salt...
- Yeah, yeah.
539
00:26:53,786 --> 00:26:55,352
- That you would have.
- They're huge.
540
00:26:55,396 --> 00:26:58,181
- But it takes much longer
to dissolve when you eat it.
541
00:26:58,225 --> 00:27:00,053
This salt will not leave us
542
00:27:00,096 --> 00:27:02,272
with, like,
a real metallic flavor.
543
00:27:14,371 --> 00:27:15,938
- And this is also linked
544
00:27:15,982 --> 00:27:18,637
to when the flamingos come
and visit Celestún.
545
00:27:18,680 --> 00:27:20,943
It's said that the flamingos
get this pink color
546
00:27:20,987 --> 00:27:22,641
because they eat the artemia.
547
00:27:22,684 --> 00:27:26,253
- The harvesting of the
flor de sal is so delicate,
548
00:27:26,296 --> 00:27:27,515
it has to be done by hand.
549
00:27:27,558 --> 00:27:29,038
Oh, God.
I'm gonna mess it up.
550
00:27:29,082 --> 00:27:30,518
They say
if you don't scoop it right,
551
00:27:30,561 --> 00:27:33,434
then it just
becomes normal salt!
552
00:27:33,477 --> 00:27:36,350
No wonder it's the most
expensive salt in the world.
553
00:27:37,612 --> 00:27:40,484
- Brilliant!
- I did it.
554
00:27:43,313 --> 00:27:46,490
Now, this is a perfect spot
for lunch.
555
00:27:46,534 --> 00:27:48,667
Wow!
- So this is a sea bass.
556
00:27:48,710 --> 00:27:50,320
- You don't understand
how excited I am
557
00:27:50,364 --> 00:27:53,367
to finally eat fish
on a beach in the Yucatán.
558
00:27:53,410 --> 00:27:55,282
Do you know what?
I'm surprised
559
00:27:55,325 --> 00:27:57,197
that there isn't more seafood
560
00:27:57,240 --> 00:27:59,373
in the Yucatán cuisine.
- I know.
561
00:27:59,416 --> 00:28:01,636
Back in the day,
people didn't have the ability
562
00:28:01,680 --> 00:28:03,551
to refrigerate food
at their homes.
563
00:28:03,594 --> 00:28:05,292
- Mm-hmm.
- My grandmother would tell me
564
00:28:05,335 --> 00:28:06,815
that when she grew up,
people thought
565
00:28:06,859 --> 00:28:09,296
that they were gonna get sick
of eating fish
566
00:28:09,339 --> 00:28:10,732
that was caught,
like, in the morning.
567
00:28:10,776 --> 00:28:13,561
And with the heat, the food
would spoil really fast.
568
00:28:13,604 --> 00:28:16,912
- The fish is stuffed
with garlic, rosemary, thyme,
569
00:28:16,956 --> 00:28:19,349
that Yucatán favorite,
sour orange,
570
00:28:19,393 --> 00:28:21,787
and of course,
a healthy dose of salt.
571
00:28:21,830 --> 00:28:25,399
When you have ingredients
this fresh, simplicity is key.
572
00:28:25,442 --> 00:28:27,880
You have specialized
in, like, opening up
573
00:28:27,923 --> 00:28:31,971
the gastronomy here outside of
the traditional Yucatán dishes.
574
00:28:32,014 --> 00:28:33,233
- I feel that here
in Yucatán,
575
00:28:33,276 --> 00:28:35,626
there are so many
great ingredients
576
00:28:35,670 --> 00:28:38,804
that I want to just let the
ingredients speak for itself.
577
00:28:38,847 --> 00:28:42,372
We're gonna put some oil on it
to start out.
578
00:28:42,416 --> 00:28:44,418
We're gonna prepare the brush.
579
00:28:44,461 --> 00:28:47,900
And this brush is gonna
be our secret weapon
580
00:28:47,943 --> 00:28:50,424
to just layer up
all these herbs.
581
00:28:50,467 --> 00:28:52,905
- This is a great idea,
an herb brush.
582
00:28:52,948 --> 00:28:55,690
[sniffs]
Oh, that smells so good.
583
00:28:55,734 --> 00:28:58,649
A brush made of parsley,
rosemary, and thyme
584
00:28:58,693 --> 00:29:01,914
is also a neat way
to apply the garlic purée.
585
00:29:01,957 --> 00:29:04,525
Oh, that's gorgeous.
586
00:29:04,568 --> 00:29:08,007
- We're gonna do some mangoes,
also grilled.
587
00:29:08,050 --> 00:29:10,226
- And salt!
588
00:29:10,270 --> 00:29:11,967
This is my idea
of food heaven.
589
00:29:12,011 --> 00:29:15,971
Truly, I'd have this
as my last meal on Earth.
590
00:29:16,015 --> 00:29:17,581
- I'm gonna bring some of the--
- Bring the salt!
591
00:29:17,625 --> 00:29:19,105
- Flor.
- Bring the salt.
592
00:29:19,148 --> 00:29:20,759
- [laughs]
593
00:29:26,155 --> 00:29:28,984
- Fish on a beach.
Now, I feel like I'm in Mexico.
594
00:29:29,028 --> 00:29:31,291
I put my onions first.
595
00:29:31,334 --> 00:29:33,162
Now, for the star ingredient.
596
00:29:33,206 --> 00:29:36,296
- This is the flor de sal, so--
- This is the flor de--
597
00:29:36,339 --> 00:29:37,514
- Yeah.
- This is what we harvested.
598
00:29:37,558 --> 00:29:39,778
- You're just gonna
put a little, tiny bit.
599
00:29:39,821 --> 00:29:41,867
So what's the secret
in all of this?
600
00:29:41,910 --> 00:29:45,653
It's to season to perfection
all the ingredients
601
00:29:45,696 --> 00:29:48,612
so that when you add the flor
de sal, you don't overseason.
602
00:29:48,656 --> 00:29:50,614
- Yeah, mm-hmm.
- OK?
603
00:29:56,795 --> 00:29:57,970
- Mmm.
604
00:29:58,013 --> 00:29:59,710
[gasps]
605
00:29:59,754 --> 00:30:01,538
Wow.
606
00:30:01,582 --> 00:30:04,324
Mmm, that fish is amazing!
607
00:30:04,367 --> 00:30:08,241
The contrast of the crunchy
salt and the soft, sweet fish
608
00:30:08,284 --> 00:30:09,503
is just sublime.
609
00:30:09,546 --> 00:30:11,548
I feel like the Yucatán
610
00:30:11,592 --> 00:30:15,161
has the most appreciation
for the land and the rain
611
00:30:15,204 --> 00:30:16,640
and the natural elements
612
00:30:16,684 --> 00:30:18,338
and the fruit
that comes from the tree.
613
00:30:18,381 --> 00:30:21,123
Like,
there's such a thank you to...
614
00:30:21,167 --> 00:30:22,733
- Yes.
- La tierra.
615
00:30:22,777 --> 00:30:25,301
- We have
delicious ingredients.
616
00:30:25,345 --> 00:30:28,652
And with delicious ingredients,
we can make delicious recipes.
617
00:30:38,097 --> 00:30:41,013
[gentle music]
618
00:30:41,056 --> 00:30:44,016
♪ ♪
619
00:30:44,059 --> 00:30:46,105
- This is huge!
620
00:30:46,148 --> 00:30:50,283
♪ ♪
621
00:30:50,326 --> 00:30:54,809
Part of the magic of Yucatán
is its world-famous pyramids,
622
00:30:54,853 --> 00:30:57,072
a reminder that the Maya
have been shaping
623
00:30:57,116 --> 00:31:00,554
the landscape and culture here
for the last 4,000 years.
624
00:31:03,383 --> 00:31:06,299
In honor
of my own Mayan ancestry,
625
00:31:06,342 --> 00:31:08,954
I'm making a pilgrimage
to Uxmal.
626
00:31:08,997 --> 00:31:11,521
Only 40 minutes' drive
from Mérida,
627
00:31:11,565 --> 00:31:13,915
but it feels like
a world away.
628
00:31:13,959 --> 00:31:15,395
Don Pepe!
- Ah.
629
00:31:15,438 --> 00:31:17,179
- Don Pepe is
a Mayan archaeologist,
630
00:31:17,223 --> 00:31:20,661
and he knows the secrets
to this sacred site.
631
00:31:20,704 --> 00:31:23,403
And it's probably why he got
the cool hat and I didn't.
632
00:31:33,195 --> 00:31:37,983
- [speaking Spanish]
- No.
633
00:31:40,333 --> 00:31:42,944
Uxmal was built around 500 AD,
634
00:31:42,988 --> 00:31:45,773
and the level of detail here
is mind-blowing.
635
00:32:09,231 --> 00:32:11,538
- Little wonder
they worship the god of rain.
636
00:32:11,581 --> 00:32:12,974
Apart from the cenotes,
637
00:32:13,018 --> 00:32:16,804
there are no lakes or rivers
in Yucatán.
638
00:32:45,180 --> 00:32:48,879
- This ability to collect
water and irrigate crops
639
00:32:48,923 --> 00:32:51,230
allowed the ancient Maya
to put down roots here
640
00:32:51,273 --> 00:32:53,406
and call it home.
641
00:32:58,977 --> 00:33:01,544
So I've heard
that Don Pepe is a great cook.
642
00:33:01,588 --> 00:33:03,807
He and his wife, Maria,
make this signature
643
00:33:03,851 --> 00:33:06,941
pork and bean broth
inspired by Yucatán's history.
644
00:33:08,943 --> 00:33:11,598
The pork, a nod
to the later arrival
645
00:33:11,641 --> 00:33:13,339
of the Spanish conquistadores.
646
00:33:23,131 --> 00:33:24,045
- Uh-huh.
647
00:33:27,483 --> 00:33:28,658
- Uh-huh.
648
00:33:32,880 --> 00:33:34,708
In honor
of the Mayan rain god,
649
00:33:34,751 --> 00:33:36,927
water plays a key part.
650
00:33:39,191 --> 00:33:42,716
- Epazote is a bitter herb
that many Mexicans swear
651
00:33:42,759 --> 00:33:44,848
stops the gassy side effects
of beans.
652
00:33:44,892 --> 00:33:46,807
Oh, my gosh,
I love beans,
653
00:33:46,850 --> 00:33:48,548
so I know
I'm gonna love this one.
654
00:33:51,246 --> 00:33:52,595
- Oh, sal. OK.
655
00:34:00,908 --> 00:34:01,952
- Uh-huh.
656
00:34:08,916 --> 00:34:10,004
- Sí.
657
00:34:10,048 --> 00:34:12,006
- Of course
it's cooked underground.
658
00:34:12,050 --> 00:34:14,965
This is Yucatán.
659
00:34:15,009 --> 00:34:17,881
Thankfully, Don Pepe
already has one in the oven.
660
00:34:17,925 --> 00:34:19,231
Wow, I think you win...
- Sí.
661
00:34:19,274 --> 00:34:21,929
the underground contest
of most hours.
662
00:34:21,972 --> 00:34:24,062
[laughter]
663
00:34:24,105 --> 00:34:25,672
- El olor, yeah.
664
00:34:25,715 --> 00:34:27,456
- [sniffs]
Oh, that smells good.
665
00:34:32,374 --> 00:34:33,680
- Wow.
666
00:34:33,723 --> 00:34:37,249
Mmm, it tastes like
barbecue in a soup.
667
00:34:37,292 --> 00:34:38,641
Smells amazing.
668
00:34:38,685 --> 00:34:40,078
Oh, look at that.
Look at that.
669
00:34:41,470 --> 00:34:43,603
- This is the pork.
670
00:34:44,821 --> 00:34:46,127
Oh, my gosh!
- Sí.
671
00:34:46,171 --> 00:34:47,955
- I'm so excited about this.
672
00:34:52,090 --> 00:34:54,135
Wow, this is, like,
673
00:34:54,179 --> 00:34:56,485
definitely slow-cooked.
674
00:34:56,529 --> 00:34:58,922
This is just falling apart.
675
00:34:58,966 --> 00:35:00,272
Look at this one.
Lookit. Lookit.
676
00:35:00,315 --> 00:35:01,534
Oh.
677
00:35:09,977 --> 00:35:11,283
- Mmm.
678
00:35:11,326 --> 00:35:12,762
Mmm.
679
00:35:16,026 --> 00:35:18,116
[laughter]
680
00:35:21,728 --> 00:35:23,295
- OK.
- ¿Claro?
681
00:35:23,338 --> 00:35:26,080
- Wow, you can really
taste the smokiness.
682
00:35:32,956 --> 00:35:34,741
In the U.S.,
we get jittery
683
00:35:34,784 --> 00:35:36,656
if our fast food isn't
fast enough,
684
00:35:36,699 --> 00:35:38,353
but here in Yucatán,
685
00:35:38,397 --> 00:35:41,269
no one bats an eye if dinner
takes two days to cook.
686
00:35:41,313 --> 00:35:42,618
Mmm.
687
00:35:42,662 --> 00:35:44,838
Sitting in the shadow
of Uxmal,
688
00:35:44,881 --> 00:35:46,753
their pyramids are
a constant reminder
689
00:35:46,796 --> 00:35:48,929
that good things take time.
690
00:35:58,417 --> 00:36:00,680
[gentle music]
691
00:36:00,723 --> 00:36:03,509
♪ ♪
692
00:36:03,552 --> 00:36:06,076
- I'm arriving in Izamal.
693
00:36:06,120 --> 00:36:10,080
This town used to be known
for a Mayan pilgrimage.
694
00:36:10,124 --> 00:36:12,866
There's a lot of pyramids
around.
695
00:36:12,909 --> 00:36:14,955
But now, it's really
a food destination.
696
00:36:14,998 --> 00:36:16,826
So today, we are going
to be making
697
00:36:16,870 --> 00:36:19,612
our food pilgrimage here.
698
00:36:19,655 --> 00:36:22,354
40 miles east of Mérida
is Izamal,
699
00:36:22,397 --> 00:36:26,271
known as the Yellow City.
700
00:36:26,314 --> 00:36:28,055
You know you've arrived
when you're surrounded
701
00:36:28,098 --> 00:36:30,492
with golden yellow walls
on every street,
702
00:36:30,536 --> 00:36:33,974
on every building.
703
00:36:34,017 --> 00:36:35,454
Even the city's largest
704
00:36:35,497 --> 00:36:37,412
and most important building
is yellow:
705
00:36:37,456 --> 00:36:40,241
the Monastery
of St. Anthony of Padua.
706
00:36:42,809 --> 00:36:46,247
Hola.
- [speaking Spanish]
707
00:36:46,291 --> 00:36:48,728
- Local restaurateur
and Miriam Azcorra
708
00:36:48,771 --> 00:36:50,904
was born and raised in Izamal.
709
00:36:53,689 --> 00:36:55,125
- Oh.
710
00:37:00,566 --> 00:37:01,697
- Mm-hmm.
711
00:37:02,916 --> 00:37:04,352
- Oh, my gosh.
- Sí.
712
00:37:04,396 --> 00:37:06,180
- When the Spanish
conquered Izamal,
713
00:37:06,224 --> 00:37:08,051
they dismantled the pyramids,
714
00:37:08,095 --> 00:37:11,098
forcing the Maya
to repurpose the stones.
715
00:37:13,753 --> 00:37:14,884
¿No?
716
00:37:22,979 --> 00:37:24,242
- Con las piedras.
- Con las piedras.
717
00:37:32,337 --> 00:37:34,904
- The monastery was built
for a Christian god,
718
00:37:34,948 --> 00:37:36,645
but it remained holy
to the Maya,
719
00:37:36,689 --> 00:37:40,780
who worshipped the sacred
stones of their former temple.
720
00:37:43,652 --> 00:37:44,740
- Mm-hmm.
721
00:37:52,705 --> 00:37:54,620
- Así. Wow.
722
00:38:00,278 --> 00:38:04,456
♪ ♪
723
00:38:04,499 --> 00:38:07,415
- There are many theories
of why the town is yellow.
724
00:38:07,459 --> 00:38:10,113
The most likely is because the
largest pyramid in the area
725
00:38:10,157 --> 00:38:12,464
was dedicated
to the sun god,
726
00:38:12,507 --> 00:38:16,729
but that's not the only
yellow ball deified here.
727
00:38:18,992 --> 00:38:20,863
- Es queso.
- Wow.
728
00:38:26,173 --> 00:38:29,437
- Amazingly, Dutch cheese
is the main ingredient
729
00:38:29,481 --> 00:38:32,353
of queso relleno.
730
00:38:32,397 --> 00:38:34,747
It's the signature dish at
Miriam's restaurant, Kinich,
731
00:38:34,790 --> 00:38:37,924
which specializes
in home-cooked comfort food.
732
00:38:42,711 --> 00:38:44,496
How did Dutch cheese get here
733
00:38:44,539 --> 00:38:47,150
and become the most famous dish
of this region?
734
00:38:52,460 --> 00:38:53,374
- Uh-huh.
735
00:38:55,245 --> 00:38:56,812
- But unlike the Europeans
736
00:38:56,856 --> 00:39:00,250
who prized these golden globes
for the cheese inside,
737
00:39:00,294 --> 00:39:01,948
here, it's all about the part
738
00:39:01,991 --> 00:39:03,428
that I would usually
throw away.
739
00:39:03,471 --> 00:39:05,821
So you're not gonna use
the inside of the cheese?
740
00:39:05,865 --> 00:39:07,345
You're gonna use
the outside of the cheese?
741
00:39:07,388 --> 00:39:08,346
- The outside.
742
00:39:09,695 --> 00:39:11,523
- It's said that once
the wealthy merchants
743
00:39:11,566 --> 00:39:13,351
had scooped out
the creamy cheese,
744
00:39:13,394 --> 00:39:15,483
their servants found
an ingenious use
745
00:39:15,527 --> 00:39:17,180
for the discarded rind.
746
00:39:17,224 --> 00:39:18,486
OK.
747
00:39:19,705 --> 00:39:20,880
- OK.
748
00:39:24,797 --> 00:39:28,496
- The meat of choice?
A familiar favorite: pork.
749
00:39:32,761 --> 00:39:33,936
- Sí, igual.
750
00:39:35,416 --> 00:39:36,374
- Uh-huh.
751
00:39:51,389 --> 00:39:52,477
- Mm.
752
00:39:59,614 --> 00:40:01,660
- Mm-hmm.
753
00:40:01,703 --> 00:40:02,878
- Capers.
- Alcaparras.
754
00:40:02,922 --> 00:40:06,055
- I love capers,
so let's put more.
755
00:40:06,099 --> 00:40:07,492
- Oh, this is almonds?
756
00:40:07,535 --> 00:40:09,842
Mediterranean bay leaves
and olives
757
00:40:09,885 --> 00:40:13,367
also go into the pot,
and then it's cooked again.
758
00:40:17,327 --> 00:40:19,417
So we close it back
in a cheesecloth.
759
00:40:22,463 --> 00:40:24,944
- So it's just
gonna take a bath.
760
00:40:28,382 --> 00:40:29,339
- Mm.
761
00:40:30,906 --> 00:40:32,604
- Sí.
762
00:40:32,647 --> 00:40:33,779
- Yeah.
763
00:40:36,999 --> 00:40:39,001
- Oh, yeah.
That's soft.
764
00:40:39,045 --> 00:40:41,874
At last,
our queso relleno is ready.
765
00:40:41,917 --> 00:40:44,964
Now, I understand what
bursting with flavor means.
766
00:40:45,007 --> 00:40:47,140
Ooh, can I touch it?
767
00:40:47,183 --> 00:40:48,141
- Yes.
768
00:40:50,491 --> 00:40:52,406
- Oh, my goodness.
769
00:40:52,450 --> 00:40:55,453
That looks really good!
770
00:40:55,496 --> 00:40:58,847
Over 16 ingredients
and three stages later,
771
00:40:58,891 --> 00:41:03,852
it's finished with a Mayan
corn sauce and tomato salsa.
772
00:41:03,896 --> 00:41:06,638
This is one intricate dish,
773
00:41:06,681 --> 00:41:10,772
and I can see why diners come
here to enjoy its complexity.
774
00:41:10,816 --> 00:41:12,382
Gracias.
775
00:41:15,647 --> 00:41:16,909
Mmm.
776
00:41:16,952 --> 00:41:18,171
- Mm.
777
00:41:19,694 --> 00:41:20,913
- Wow.
778
00:41:20,956 --> 00:41:22,480
Mmm.
- Mmm.
779
00:41:24,525 --> 00:41:26,527
- Oh, that's so good.
780
00:41:27,572 --> 00:41:28,573
- Mm-hmm.
781
00:41:37,756 --> 00:41:41,977
- For me, this is the dish
that sums up Yucatán.
782
00:41:42,021 --> 00:41:44,371
It's a region
that isn't afraid
783
00:41:44,414 --> 00:41:46,286
to embrace different cultures.
784
00:41:46,329 --> 00:41:48,593
The people here are so secure
785
00:41:48,636 --> 00:41:51,378
in who they are
and where they come from.
786
00:41:51,421 --> 00:41:54,163
New influences are simply
blended with the ancient
787
00:41:54,207 --> 00:41:56,165
to create something unique.
788
00:41:56,209 --> 00:41:58,037
In Yucatán,
there's an appreciation
789
00:41:58,080 --> 00:42:00,909
that good things
are worth the wait.
790
00:42:00,953 --> 00:42:05,087
♪ ♪
53446
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