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Would you like to inspect the original subtitles? These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:06,310 --> 00:00:09,357 [gentle music] 2 00:00:09,400 --> 00:00:15,841 ♪ ♪ 3 00:00:15,885 --> 00:00:18,366 - Oh, it's cold. It's cold. 4 00:00:20,237 --> 00:00:22,065 So this is called a cenote. 5 00:00:22,109 --> 00:00:23,893 It's a natural sinkhole. 6 00:00:23,936 --> 00:00:26,852 It's very unique to the Yucatán Peninsula. 7 00:00:26,896 --> 00:00:28,376 They were very sacred to the Mayans. 8 00:00:28,419 --> 00:00:31,553 They believed that this was a passage to the underworld. 9 00:00:31,596 --> 00:00:36,993 ♪ ♪ 10 00:00:40,605 --> 00:00:44,479 The Maya define the culture of Yucatán. 11 00:00:44,522 --> 00:00:45,958 As one of the great civilizations 12 00:00:46,002 --> 00:00:49,223 in Central America, their influence is everywhere. 13 00:00:49,266 --> 00:00:51,051 This is huge! 14 00:00:51,094 --> 00:00:53,618 Their DNA runs through every local dish. 15 00:00:53,662 --> 00:00:56,447 - [speaking Spanish] 16 00:00:56,491 --> 00:00:59,885 - And their ancient ways are still a source of inspiration. 17 00:00:59,929 --> 00:01:02,453 - Let's let it burn a little bit more, and... 18 00:01:02,497 --> 00:01:03,585 - More? - We grind. 19 00:01:03,628 --> 00:01:05,152 - I'm Eva Longoria, 20 00:01:05,195 --> 00:01:07,763 born and bred in Texas with Mexican-American roots, 21 00:01:07,806 --> 00:01:10,070 which makes me a Texican. 22 00:01:10,113 --> 00:01:13,334 I'm exploring Mexico to see how the people, their lands, 23 00:01:13,377 --> 00:01:16,250 and their past have shaped a culinary tradition 24 00:01:16,293 --> 00:01:18,339 as diverse as its 32 states. 25 00:01:18,382 --> 00:01:20,906 I don't think I've ever seen an avocado this big. 26 00:01:20,950 --> 00:01:23,692 - Here in Yucatán, there are so many great ingredients. 27 00:01:23,735 --> 00:01:27,087 - With searingly hot weather all year round, 28 00:01:27,130 --> 00:01:29,437 time moves at a slower pace in Yucatán. 29 00:01:29,480 --> 00:01:32,135 - [speaking Mayan] 30 00:01:32,179 --> 00:01:35,486 - When it's taken hundreds of years to build the pyramids, 31 00:01:35,530 --> 00:01:37,793 waiting a day for your dinner to cook is no big deal. 32 00:01:40,491 --> 00:01:41,971 - Eight hours? 33 00:01:42,014 --> 00:01:44,104 I just hope I can be as patient as my hosts. 34 00:01:44,147 --> 00:01:46,584 I want to taste the pig! 35 00:01:46,628 --> 00:01:49,587 [upbeat music] 36 00:01:49,631 --> 00:01:56,464 ♪ ♪ 37 00:02:04,428 --> 00:02:07,039 Yucatán state is cut off from the rest of Mexico 38 00:02:07,083 --> 00:02:10,086 by dense forest, but its long coastline 39 00:02:10,130 --> 00:02:13,307 has always linked it to the outside world. 40 00:02:13,350 --> 00:02:16,397 It has the largest Maya population in Mexico, 41 00:02:16,440 --> 00:02:19,226 dating back 4,000 years. 42 00:02:19,269 --> 00:02:23,012 The ancient Maya were pioneering and industrious. 43 00:02:23,055 --> 00:02:24,840 They thrived here until the arrival 44 00:02:24,883 --> 00:02:27,843 of the Spanish conquistadors in the 1500s. 45 00:02:29,366 --> 00:02:33,022 The region's turbulent history and unique geography 46 00:02:33,065 --> 00:02:34,893 have heavily influenced the cuisine. 47 00:02:40,203 --> 00:02:42,597 So today, I am trying cochinita pibil, 48 00:02:42,640 --> 00:02:45,904 which is probably the most famous dish from the Yucatán. 49 00:02:45,948 --> 00:02:48,690 You can't come here without having it. 50 00:02:48,733 --> 00:02:51,562 It's known worldwide. 51 00:02:51,606 --> 00:02:52,998 Hola. - Hola. 52 00:02:53,042 --> 00:02:54,043 Buenos días. - Hola. Buenos días. 53 00:02:54,086 --> 00:02:55,131 - Buenos días. 54 00:02:55,175 --> 00:02:56,828 [speaking Spanish] 55 00:02:56,872 --> 00:02:59,048 - [speaking Spanish] 56 00:02:59,091 --> 00:03:01,746 Now, there are variations on the recipe. 57 00:03:01,790 --> 00:03:04,053 But cochinita pibil is slow-cooked pork 58 00:03:04,096 --> 00:03:06,621 marinated in a tangy spice mix... 59 00:03:06,664 --> 00:03:08,405 Oh, wow. 60 00:03:08,449 --> 00:03:11,103 Traditionally served in a taco with pickled red onions. 61 00:03:11,147 --> 00:03:12,583 Look at that. 62 00:03:12,627 --> 00:03:14,716 You know it's good when there's pork fat dripping out. 63 00:03:17,632 --> 00:03:19,111 Mmm. 64 00:03:21,723 --> 00:03:25,205 I'm going to the award-winning restaurant, IXI'IM, 65 00:03:25,248 --> 00:03:29,426 where cochinita pibil is transformed into fine dining. 66 00:03:29,470 --> 00:03:31,515 It's run by Luis Ronzón, 67 00:03:31,559 --> 00:03:34,126 one of the region's most exciting chefs, 68 00:03:34,170 --> 00:03:36,128 who makes his cochinita pibil 69 00:03:36,172 --> 00:03:39,088 using both ancient and modern techniques. 70 00:03:39,131 --> 00:03:40,698 Hello! - Hello. 71 00:03:40,742 --> 00:03:41,917 How you doing? - Good. 72 00:03:41,960 --> 00:03:43,048 Soy Eva. 73 00:03:43,092 --> 00:03:45,050 - Mucho gusto Nice meeting you. 74 00:03:45,094 --> 00:03:46,617 - Nice to meet you. - Welcome. 75 00:03:46,661 --> 00:03:47,923 - Thank you. I'm excited. 76 00:03:47,966 --> 00:03:50,708 I've heard amazing things about your restaurant. 77 00:03:50,752 --> 00:03:52,754 Luis starts by cooking the pork 78 00:03:52,797 --> 00:03:56,105 the traditional Mayan way: outdoors. 79 00:04:03,634 --> 00:04:06,115 - This pig is a descendant of the same breed 80 00:04:06,158 --> 00:04:08,944 that the Spanish prize for jamón ibérico, 81 00:04:08,987 --> 00:04:11,207 one of the world's finest hams. 82 00:04:15,951 --> 00:04:17,257 - I've never seen this orange. 83 00:04:19,520 --> 00:04:20,782 - Yeah. 84 00:04:20,825 --> 00:04:22,653 - You use sour orange. 85 00:04:23,872 --> 00:04:26,048 The Spanish brought this citrus gem, 86 00:04:26,091 --> 00:04:28,485 which is now a Yucatán staple. 87 00:04:28,529 --> 00:04:30,008 Here, it's mixed with spices 88 00:04:30,052 --> 00:04:31,706 from the neighboring Caribbean. 89 00:04:31,749 --> 00:04:32,881 - So... 90 00:04:36,711 --> 00:04:37,842 - Mm-hmm. 91 00:04:48,200 --> 00:04:51,073 - The marinated pig is entombed in a steel box 92 00:04:51,116 --> 00:04:53,510 before being put in the oven, 93 00:04:53,554 --> 00:04:56,992 which is literally a freshly dug hole in the ground. 94 00:04:57,035 --> 00:04:58,646 What do you call the oven? 95 00:04:58,689 --> 00:05:00,343 What is--P-I-B? - P-I-B. 96 00:05:03,825 --> 00:05:05,000 - Oh. 97 00:05:06,784 --> 00:05:07,829 - Pib style. - No? 98 00:05:16,925 --> 00:05:19,493 - It is basically a crock pot in the ground. 99 00:05:19,536 --> 00:05:20,668 - Yeah, kind of. Yeah. 100 00:05:20,711 --> 00:05:22,539 You couldn't have said it better. 101 00:05:22,583 --> 00:05:24,236 - Wouldn't it be easier just to put it in a crock pot? 102 00:05:24,280 --> 00:05:27,196 - Yeah. No, 'cause you don't have the flavor of the soil. 103 00:05:27,239 --> 00:05:28,589 - Yes, the flavor... - You know? 104 00:05:28,632 --> 00:05:30,155 - Of the region. - Of the branches 105 00:05:30,199 --> 00:05:31,461 and everything. - Of the tierra. 106 00:05:31,505 --> 00:05:34,856 - Right. And this is a romantic technique, no? 107 00:05:34,899 --> 00:05:36,379 - A very romantic technique. - It is. 108 00:05:36,423 --> 00:05:37,902 - I mean, it's romantic because I'm not the one 109 00:05:37,946 --> 00:05:40,035 digging the dirt, but yeah. - Yeah. 110 00:05:45,606 --> 00:05:48,609 - This ancient way of slow-cooking is ingenious. 111 00:05:48,652 --> 00:05:51,655 Once buried, the pig needs no supervision, 112 00:05:51,699 --> 00:05:53,831 and the meat is protected from hungry animals. 113 00:05:53,875 --> 00:05:55,746 I mean, what's not to like? 114 00:05:55,790 --> 00:05:57,400 Oh, but there is a downside. 115 00:05:57,444 --> 00:06:00,708 - So we're gonna leave it here for eight hours. 116 00:06:00,751 --> 00:06:02,187 - Eight hours? - Yeah. 117 00:06:04,929 --> 00:06:06,496 - Thank goodness for that. 118 00:06:06,540 --> 00:06:08,933 I just wish our crew would hurry up and get over here. 119 00:06:08,977 --> 00:06:11,022 - I'm dying to eat the pig, guys! 120 00:06:11,066 --> 00:06:13,634 - [laughs] We're hungry. - Come on! 121 00:06:13,677 --> 00:06:16,245 I want to taste the pig! 122 00:06:18,726 --> 00:06:20,336 I mean, if you could smell this right now, 123 00:06:20,380 --> 00:06:22,904 you'd be yelling for it too. 124 00:06:22,947 --> 00:06:24,296 - So this one, we buried yesterday. 125 00:06:24,340 --> 00:06:26,647 - The big reveal. - Yes. Yeah. 126 00:06:26,690 --> 00:06:29,389 - [gasps] Oh, wow. 127 00:06:32,087 --> 00:06:34,568 Can I take the banana leaf off? - Yeah, please. 128 00:06:34,611 --> 00:06:36,091 - Look at this! [gasps] 129 00:06:36,134 --> 00:06:38,310 Look at that. Look at the juice. 130 00:06:40,312 --> 00:06:42,010 Oh, my God. 131 00:06:42,053 --> 00:06:44,273 It's just, like, falling off! 132 00:06:48,625 --> 00:06:50,105 Oh, my gosh. 133 00:06:50,148 --> 00:06:52,194 Oh, my gosh. Well, I need more now. 134 00:06:52,237 --> 00:06:56,372 I mean, you can taste the comino, the clove. 135 00:06:56,416 --> 00:06:58,766 That sour orange really is-- - Yeah. 136 00:06:58,809 --> 00:07:02,030 Sour orange and the spices, no? 137 00:07:02,073 --> 00:07:04,206 Wow. - Mm-hmm. 138 00:07:04,249 --> 00:07:06,034 Mmm! 139 00:07:06,077 --> 00:07:07,992 - My mouth is watering now. - Watching me? 140 00:07:08,036 --> 00:07:09,429 - Yeah. - [chuckles] 141 00:07:09,472 --> 00:07:11,822 - So I wanted you to try, like, the normal way. 142 00:07:11,866 --> 00:07:12,910 - Mm-hmm. - And also, 143 00:07:12,954 --> 00:07:14,956 I want you to try my way, 144 00:07:14,999 --> 00:07:17,611 which is the way we serve it at the IXI'IM restaurant, so... 145 00:07:17,654 --> 00:07:19,961 - OK. 146 00:07:20,004 --> 00:07:23,268 This is beautiful! 147 00:07:23,312 --> 00:07:25,401 Here in his kitchen garden, 148 00:07:25,445 --> 00:07:28,665 Luis grows his produce the same way as the Maya. 149 00:07:35,411 --> 00:07:37,761 - Now, I'm sure the ancient Maya would feel at home 150 00:07:37,805 --> 00:07:40,111 in Luis's garden, but what would they think 151 00:07:40,155 --> 00:07:42,374 of his breathtaking dining room? 152 00:07:46,466 --> 00:07:49,077 But I'm at the heart of the action--in the kitchen. 153 00:07:53,211 --> 00:07:55,083 - What? Yes! - Yeah? OK. 154 00:07:55,126 --> 00:07:57,346 - Yes. Don't threaten me with a good time. 155 00:07:57,389 --> 00:07:59,000 [laughs] 156 00:07:59,043 --> 00:08:00,175 Salud. - Cheers. 157 00:08:00,218 --> 00:08:01,655 - Luis is from Mexico City, 158 00:08:01,698 --> 00:08:04,788 but it's Yucatán that's captured his heart. 159 00:08:04,832 --> 00:08:07,008 So what was your favorite thing about the cuisine 160 00:08:07,051 --> 00:08:09,097 when you moved here? 161 00:08:09,140 --> 00:08:11,360 - Yes? This dish? - Yeah, yeah. 162 00:08:12,840 --> 00:08:13,928 - Oh, yeah. 163 00:08:17,322 --> 00:08:19,499 - Really? - Yeah. 164 00:08:19,542 --> 00:08:22,806 - Luis has swapped out the traditional pickled red onions 165 00:08:22,850 --> 00:08:27,028 for his own sides of sweet potato, parsnip, and beets. 166 00:08:27,071 --> 00:08:29,160 Just a little bit of butter, guys. 167 00:08:29,204 --> 00:08:30,640 - Yeah. - Just a little bit of butter. 168 00:08:30,684 --> 00:08:31,641 - Salt. 169 00:08:33,817 --> 00:08:35,906 - And that's it. - And that's it. 170 00:08:35,950 --> 00:08:39,301 - I'm just gonna wait here while he roasts those beets. 171 00:08:41,651 --> 00:08:43,261 The pig from the pib 172 00:08:43,305 --> 00:08:46,047 is about to have a sophisticated makeover. 173 00:08:51,487 --> 00:08:53,576 - Watch out. Aah! 174 00:08:53,620 --> 00:08:57,275 - We're gonna make, like, a very crispy skin, no? 175 00:08:57,319 --> 00:08:59,408 - That's a good idea. - Yeah. 176 00:08:59,451 --> 00:09:01,018 - I concur. 177 00:09:01,062 --> 00:09:02,542 [crunches] - Do you hear that? 178 00:09:02,585 --> 00:09:03,847 - Yes. - That's a crispy skin. 179 00:09:03,891 --> 00:09:06,067 - Yes! 180 00:09:06,110 --> 00:09:10,071 - And I'm gonna put it in here. - Oh, that's beautiful! 181 00:09:10,114 --> 00:09:11,376 - So that's the way we plate it. 182 00:09:11,420 --> 00:09:12,726 - Look at that presentation. - Yeah. 183 00:09:15,642 --> 00:09:18,601 - The puréed vegetables and habanero chili salsa 184 00:09:18,645 --> 00:09:21,778 turns this dish into a rainbow of color. 185 00:09:21,822 --> 00:09:27,871 ♪ ♪ 186 00:09:27,915 --> 00:09:29,481 [gasps] 187 00:09:34,269 --> 00:09:37,185 I've never had a meal like this. 188 00:09:37,228 --> 00:09:38,969 One of the best meals of my life. 189 00:09:39,013 --> 00:09:40,101 - Thank you. 190 00:09:42,582 --> 00:09:45,628 - This is Luis' love letter to Yucatán, 191 00:09:45,672 --> 00:09:46,716 to the people 192 00:09:46,760 --> 00:09:49,937 and the land he now calls home. 193 00:09:49,980 --> 00:09:51,112 I'm just gonna-- don't mind me. 194 00:09:51,155 --> 00:09:53,418 I'm just gonna stay here in the kitchen. 195 00:09:53,462 --> 00:09:54,768 You have work to do. Go ahead. 196 00:09:54,811 --> 00:09:56,726 - [laughs] 197 00:09:56,770 --> 00:09:58,206 - I'm so happy. 198 00:10:04,908 --> 00:10:06,867 [upbeat music] 199 00:10:06,910 --> 00:10:09,217 ♪ ♪ 200 00:10:09,260 --> 00:10:14,222 - Mérida is the capital of Yucatán, 201 00:10:14,265 --> 00:10:16,877 and it's a city that runs on its stomach. 202 00:10:16,920 --> 00:10:18,400 Hola. [laughs] 203 00:10:18,443 --> 00:10:20,445 I'm here to meet one of Mérida's best chefs 204 00:10:20,489 --> 00:10:22,317 and gastronomic pioneers. 205 00:10:22,360 --> 00:10:23,971 - Mucho gusto. - Mucho gusto. 206 00:10:24,014 --> 00:10:25,929 - [speaking Spanish] 207 00:10:25,973 --> 00:10:28,323 This market sells all the spices that we will need 208 00:10:28,366 --> 00:10:30,499 to cook later on in the night. - OK. OK. 209 00:10:30,542 --> 00:10:32,327 - So you want to take a look? - Yes. 210 00:10:32,370 --> 00:10:33,937 - Let's go. - I love a spice market. 211 00:10:33,981 --> 00:10:37,288 - Chef Roberto Solís is famous for putting a new spin 212 00:10:37,332 --> 00:10:40,465 on the foundation of Yucatecan cuisine: 213 00:10:40,509 --> 00:10:41,641 el recado. 214 00:10:43,904 --> 00:10:45,383 What is el recado? 215 00:10:45,427 --> 00:10:47,647 I've never heard that word until I got to the Yucatán. 216 00:10:52,608 --> 00:10:54,349 - El recado is a colored paste 217 00:10:54,392 --> 00:10:56,264 made from a combination of spices. 218 00:10:56,307 --> 00:10:58,353 They come in lots of different flavors 219 00:10:58,396 --> 00:11:00,485 and are used everywhere here, 220 00:11:00,529 --> 00:11:04,054 but you'll struggle to find el recado outside Yucatán. 221 00:11:05,621 --> 00:11:07,101 - No. No. 222 00:11:07,144 --> 00:11:08,319 - No? - Just here. 223 00:11:08,363 --> 00:11:10,060 - Why? That's so weird. 224 00:11:10,104 --> 00:11:12,584 - That's weird. [laughter] 225 00:11:12,628 --> 00:11:14,499 - Because it feels like such a good idea. 226 00:11:14,543 --> 00:11:15,675 - Yeah. - Like, to do a paste 227 00:11:15,718 --> 00:11:18,199 on chicken and fish and pork. - Yeah. 228 00:11:20,549 --> 00:11:23,160 - Is this their family recipe? 229 00:11:23,204 --> 00:11:25,467 - [speaking Spanish] - [speaking Spanish] 230 00:11:25,510 --> 00:11:28,035 - For generations, Don Enrique's family 231 00:11:28,078 --> 00:11:31,299 have been recado alchemists. 232 00:11:35,912 --> 00:11:37,044 - Uh-huh. 233 00:11:57,107 --> 00:11:59,066 - It's much smokier. - Yes. 234 00:12:00,894 --> 00:12:02,896 - No. 235 00:12:02,939 --> 00:12:05,072 Many of these spices came to the Yucatán 236 00:12:05,115 --> 00:12:06,638 over 500 years ago, 237 00:12:06,682 --> 00:12:09,554 when the region was colonized by the Spanish. 238 00:12:09,598 --> 00:12:11,861 And you can still see a strong European influence 239 00:12:11,905 --> 00:12:13,733 all around Mérida. 240 00:12:16,213 --> 00:12:19,347 Today, people flock to its thriving food scene. 241 00:12:19,390 --> 00:12:21,436 Twice voted capital of culture, 242 00:12:21,479 --> 00:12:23,438 it's a magnet for creativity. 243 00:12:26,136 --> 00:12:28,095 Roberto's been at the forefront 244 00:12:28,138 --> 00:12:31,228 of that creativity here in Mérida and in the Yucatán, 245 00:12:31,272 --> 00:12:33,448 so let's see what he's up to. 246 00:12:33,491 --> 00:12:35,537 Roberto's restaurant is called Huniik, 247 00:12:35,580 --> 00:12:38,670 which means "unique spirit" in Mayan. 248 00:12:38,714 --> 00:12:41,935 Here, it's all about turning ancient recipes on their head. 249 00:12:41,978 --> 00:12:43,110 Wow. 250 00:12:43,153 --> 00:12:46,722 Oh, this is beautiful! 251 00:12:46,766 --> 00:12:48,593 This is gorgeous! 252 00:12:48,637 --> 00:12:50,247 - [chuckles] - How are you? 253 00:12:50,291 --> 00:12:51,814 Oh, you look so handsome 254 00:12:51,858 --> 00:12:53,076 in your chef's clothes. - Welcome. 255 00:12:53,120 --> 00:12:54,512 [laughs] 256 00:12:54,556 --> 00:12:56,297 - Known as the Recado King, 257 00:12:56,340 --> 00:13:00,562 Roberto's star of the menu tonight is his black recado. 258 00:13:00,605 --> 00:13:02,477 Are we doing the spices here? - Well, yes. 259 00:13:02,520 --> 00:13:03,739 We're gonna grind the spices here. 260 00:13:03,783 --> 00:13:04,827 - All right. - But actually, 261 00:13:04,871 --> 00:13:06,873 we're gonna burn the spices here. 262 00:13:06,916 --> 00:13:08,657 - Ooh! - [laughs] 263 00:13:08,700 --> 00:13:11,181 We have onion, oregano, cumin, garlic, 264 00:13:11,225 --> 00:13:14,271 annatto seeds, the pepper. - Uh-huh. 265 00:13:14,315 --> 00:13:17,666 Roberto is making his recado negro from scratch... 266 00:13:17,709 --> 00:13:20,321 - So if you want to start... - Yeah. What do I do? 267 00:13:20,364 --> 00:13:21,975 With me as his wingman. 268 00:13:22,018 --> 00:13:23,150 We put it in here? - Yeah. 269 00:13:23,193 --> 00:13:25,413 - Oh, my God! [laughter] 270 00:13:25,456 --> 00:13:26,370 - Good. - I already-- 271 00:13:26,414 --> 00:13:27,589 I already messed up. OK. 272 00:13:27,632 --> 00:13:29,156 - Put some cumin. Just a little bit. 273 00:13:29,199 --> 00:13:30,679 - A little bit? - Like a spoon. 274 00:13:30,722 --> 00:13:32,072 Yeah, that's good. - What is this one 275 00:13:32,115 --> 00:13:33,377 called again? - Annatto seeds. 276 00:13:33,421 --> 00:13:35,118 You can put more, more, more, more, more, more. 277 00:13:35,162 --> 00:13:36,685 - The spices are lightly toasted, 278 00:13:36,728 --> 00:13:38,513 but when it comes to the chili... 279 00:13:38,556 --> 00:13:40,863 It's burning! [laughs] 280 00:13:40,907 --> 00:13:42,169 We crank up the heat. 281 00:13:42,212 --> 00:13:43,735 - The more you burn the chili... 282 00:13:43,779 --> 00:13:45,825 - The less hot. - The less hot. 283 00:13:45,868 --> 00:13:48,262 Now, you can start smelling. - Yeah. 284 00:13:48,305 --> 00:13:50,307 Oh, it's smoking. - [laughs] 285 00:13:50,351 --> 00:13:53,267 - Wave it towards you. - [laughs] 286 00:13:53,310 --> 00:13:55,356 - It smells amazing. 287 00:13:55,399 --> 00:13:58,185 Is this what makes it black, is that char? 288 00:13:58,228 --> 00:13:59,534 - Yeah. - Yeah? 289 00:13:59,577 --> 00:14:02,406 And he really does mean "burn the chili." 290 00:14:02,450 --> 00:14:03,843 [coughing] - Yeah, yeah. 291 00:14:03,886 --> 00:14:05,670 [laughs] 292 00:14:08,195 --> 00:14:09,587 [coughing continues] 293 00:14:09,631 --> 00:14:11,763 Are you guys OK? - [laughs] 294 00:14:11,807 --> 00:14:12,982 - Is it just me? 295 00:14:15,811 --> 00:14:18,205 - Let's let them burn a little bit more, and... 296 00:14:18,248 --> 00:14:19,597 - More? - We grind. 297 00:14:19,641 --> 00:14:22,600 - This goes against all my instincts. 298 00:14:22,644 --> 00:14:25,473 And now, we grind it? - Yeah, let's go. 299 00:14:27,823 --> 00:14:28,780 - OK. 300 00:14:32,262 --> 00:14:33,524 - Oh, my God. 301 00:14:33,568 --> 00:14:35,613 Are we sure this is gonna taste good? 302 00:14:35,657 --> 00:14:37,833 - Yeah, of course. [laughs] 303 00:14:37,877 --> 00:14:39,879 - And all of this is just for the flavoring. 304 00:14:39,922 --> 00:14:41,315 We haven't even started cooking yet. 305 00:14:41,358 --> 00:14:42,490 Is this right? - Yeah. 306 00:14:42,533 --> 00:14:44,057 - Oh, yeah. The paste is coming. 307 00:14:44,100 --> 00:14:45,710 - Yes. 308 00:14:45,754 --> 00:14:48,539 [laughs] 309 00:14:48,583 --> 00:14:51,412 - All right. I think I just pulled a muscle. 310 00:14:51,455 --> 00:14:53,544 - I think we are, yeah, just finished. 311 00:14:53,588 --> 00:14:55,590 Amazing. 312 00:14:55,633 --> 00:14:58,288 - How do you know if it has the right balance? 313 00:14:58,332 --> 00:15:01,291 Mmm. Ooh, that smells great. - Yeah. 314 00:15:02,902 --> 00:15:04,077 It's good. 315 00:15:04,120 --> 00:15:05,295 - Now, we're gonna add... - The orange. 316 00:15:05,339 --> 00:15:06,906 - The sour orange. 317 00:15:06,949 --> 00:15:08,733 Why am I doing all the work here? 318 00:15:08,777 --> 00:15:10,735 - [laughs] [speaking Spanish] 319 00:15:10,779 --> 00:15:13,434 - I don't know how much to put. 320 00:15:13,477 --> 00:15:16,654 - [speaking Spanish] 321 00:15:16,698 --> 00:15:18,613 - Then you mix it, no? - Yeah. 322 00:15:18,656 --> 00:15:21,181 It looks so weird, huh? - No, it looks amazing. 323 00:15:21,224 --> 00:15:22,791 - You're like, "Yeah." [laughs] 324 00:15:24,793 --> 00:15:26,447 - Oh, wow. Oh, my God. 325 00:15:26,490 --> 00:15:29,319 That is so complicated. 326 00:15:29,363 --> 00:15:30,799 - [laughs] Yes. 327 00:15:32,844 --> 00:15:35,412 - Let's put this on something. - Yes. 328 00:15:37,675 --> 00:15:39,764 So first, we're gonna get this white onion. 329 00:15:39,808 --> 00:15:41,027 - Mm-hmm. 330 00:15:41,070 --> 00:15:43,812 - Are we making Yucatán onion rings? 331 00:15:43,855 --> 00:15:45,770 - I think it's a bit more than that, but... 332 00:15:45,814 --> 00:15:47,859 [laughter] - I'm just teasing. 333 00:15:47,903 --> 00:15:50,253 This is one of Roberto's signature dishes: 334 00:15:50,297 --> 00:15:51,646 onion tempura. 335 00:15:51,689 --> 00:15:53,778 With the recado? - With the recado. 336 00:15:53,822 --> 00:15:55,302 Yeah. Why not, right? - Oh, my God. 337 00:15:55,345 --> 00:15:59,175 Roberto adds the recado negro to the tempura batter. 338 00:15:59,219 --> 00:16:00,829 - So I'm gonna dip this. 339 00:16:00,872 --> 00:16:03,353 - And like everything else in Yucatán, 340 00:16:03,397 --> 00:16:05,399 it's a slow process. 341 00:16:09,403 --> 00:16:10,970 - Yeah. - [laughs] 342 00:16:11,013 --> 00:16:13,102 - It's time-consuming. - Yeah, it is. 343 00:16:15,539 --> 00:16:18,499 - Oh, my God. These are gorgeous. 344 00:16:18,542 --> 00:16:20,501 So the black doesn't mean it's burnt. 345 00:16:20,544 --> 00:16:21,981 It's just the color. - Exactly. 346 00:16:23,069 --> 00:16:23,983 - Mm-hmm. 347 00:16:29,814 --> 00:16:31,642 - Oh. 348 00:16:34,471 --> 00:16:35,995 - These beautiful blackened onions 349 00:16:36,038 --> 00:16:38,823 are presented on a bed of charcoal. 350 00:16:38,867 --> 00:16:40,521 Have you had to tell some clients 351 00:16:40,564 --> 00:16:42,044 not to eat the charcoal? - You know, it's funny 352 00:16:42,088 --> 00:16:44,699 because some people just-- - 'Cause it's the same color. 353 00:16:44,742 --> 00:16:47,484 - And everybody like... [laughter] 354 00:16:47,528 --> 00:16:48,877 It was so funny. 355 00:16:48,920 --> 00:16:51,053 - You want to confuse people? - Yeah. 356 00:16:51,097 --> 00:16:52,924 Well, I want to-- - Is this the goal? 357 00:17:03,544 --> 00:17:05,198 - Mmm. 358 00:17:05,241 --> 00:17:07,243 - You know? - Wow. 359 00:17:07,287 --> 00:17:11,117 For as complex as that paste was, it's not overwhelming. 360 00:17:11,160 --> 00:17:12,161 - No, it's not overwhelming. - You're not like-- 361 00:17:12,205 --> 00:17:13,641 - It's just giving you some creaminess. 362 00:17:13,684 --> 00:17:15,599 - Mmm. - Crunch, creaminess. 363 00:17:15,643 --> 00:17:17,036 - I've never had anything like this. 364 00:17:17,079 --> 00:17:20,909 This is gorgeous, and it's delicious. 365 00:17:20,952 --> 00:17:22,519 - Felicidades. - Gracias. 366 00:17:22,563 --> 00:17:26,132 - I'm just gonna stand here while you make the next dish. 367 00:17:30,919 --> 00:17:33,835 Once more, Roberto's toying with my taste buds, 368 00:17:33,878 --> 00:17:36,446 serving coconut ice cream with grilled mango 369 00:17:36,490 --> 00:17:39,232 coated in his recado negro. 370 00:17:39,275 --> 00:17:41,843 Smoky with a hint of spice. 371 00:17:43,279 --> 00:17:45,325 Is it hot? - Yeah. 372 00:17:45,368 --> 00:17:46,543 - Oh. 373 00:17:49,590 --> 00:17:52,723 [laughter] 374 00:17:53,724 --> 00:17:55,074 It is so good! 375 00:17:55,117 --> 00:17:56,423 - Yeah, it is. - I think I'm gonna cry! 376 00:17:56,466 --> 00:17:59,165 [laughter] 377 00:17:59,208 --> 00:18:02,951 I thought that recado was gonna overpower this whole thing. 378 00:18:02,994 --> 00:18:05,084 - You know what it reminds me? When you put marshmallow 379 00:18:05,127 --> 00:18:07,260 on the grill, you know? - Yes, yes! 380 00:18:07,303 --> 00:18:09,044 It reminds me of that. - The texture, you know? 381 00:18:09,088 --> 00:18:11,786 - It has a crispy texture. - Yes, exactly. 382 00:18:11,829 --> 00:18:13,831 - Oh, my God, this is like... - Exactly. 383 00:18:13,875 --> 00:18:16,486 - I'm in heaven. - [laughs] 384 00:18:16,530 --> 00:18:19,707 - Now I know why you're the king of the recado negro. 385 00:18:19,750 --> 00:18:21,926 - Yes, salud. - Gracias, Roberto. 386 00:18:21,970 --> 00:18:23,145 - Gracias. - Muchas gracias. 387 00:18:23,189 --> 00:18:24,842 Wow. 388 00:18:32,459 --> 00:18:34,287 [cheering] 389 00:18:34,330 --> 00:18:36,463 - Most of us have heard of the Day of the Dead. 390 00:18:36,506 --> 00:18:38,769 It's one of Mexico's biggest celebrations, 391 00:18:38,813 --> 00:18:40,728 and my personal favorite, 392 00:18:40,771 --> 00:18:42,904 where spirits come back to eat, drink, 393 00:18:42,947 --> 00:18:44,558 and party with the living. 394 00:18:44,601 --> 00:18:47,996 This celebration is rooted in Aztec and Spanish cultures 395 00:18:48,039 --> 00:18:52,479 and share similarities with the Maya ceremony Hanal Pixan, 396 00:18:52,522 --> 00:18:54,263 meaning "food for the souls." 397 00:18:54,307 --> 00:18:57,223 [upbeat music] 398 00:18:57,266 --> 00:18:59,747 ♪ ♪ 399 00:18:59,790 --> 00:19:02,010 Hola. - Hola, Eva. 400 00:19:02,750 --> 00:19:03,925 - [speaking Spanish] 401 00:19:08,147 --> 00:19:10,323 [rooster crows] 402 00:19:10,366 --> 00:19:12,716 - Two-thirds of the population of Yucatán 403 00:19:12,760 --> 00:19:14,544 are of Mayan descent. 404 00:19:14,588 --> 00:19:15,937 And at the heart of the peninsula 405 00:19:15,980 --> 00:19:18,200 is the Maya town of Xocén. 406 00:19:23,118 --> 00:19:25,816 - I've come to help Chef Alberto Cucu 407 00:19:25,860 --> 00:19:28,297 prepare one of the world's oldest dishes. 408 00:19:35,478 --> 00:19:36,610 - Mm-hmm. 409 00:19:39,526 --> 00:19:40,614 - Mm-hmm. 410 00:19:50,406 --> 00:19:51,320 - Sí. 411 00:19:52,626 --> 00:19:53,757 - Uh-huh. 412 00:19:57,108 --> 00:19:58,545 - Mm-hmm. 413 00:19:58,588 --> 00:20:01,330 - Red is incredibly symbolic to the Maya. 414 00:20:01,374 --> 00:20:04,115 The color of blood, it represents the sunrise 415 00:20:04,159 --> 00:20:06,074 and the rejection of darkness. 416 00:20:20,915 --> 00:20:22,438 - I grew up making tamales. 417 00:20:22,482 --> 00:20:24,832 And in my home, it's still a family tradition. 418 00:20:24,875 --> 00:20:28,052 Oh, my God! It's peeling right off! 419 00:20:32,927 --> 00:20:34,755 - Hola. - Hola. 420 00:20:34,798 --> 00:20:36,191 - Mucho gusto, señora. 421 00:20:36,235 --> 00:20:38,889 - ¿No? No habla español? - Uh-uh. 422 00:20:38,933 --> 00:20:42,371 - My Spanish isn't great, but it's way better than my Mayan. 423 00:20:42,415 --> 00:20:45,766 I'm hoping the language of food is universal. 424 00:20:50,423 --> 00:20:52,425 [speaking Spanish] 425 00:20:52,468 --> 00:20:54,122 - OK, their tamale technique 426 00:20:54,165 --> 00:20:55,776 is totally different than mine. 427 00:20:55,819 --> 00:20:57,386 God, you guys are fast. 428 00:20:57,430 --> 00:20:58,561 [laughter] 429 00:21:02,478 --> 00:21:04,393 - Así. 430 00:21:04,437 --> 00:21:07,266 - Oh. Oh, see? That's already a tip. 431 00:21:07,309 --> 00:21:10,181 - [speaking Mayan] 432 00:21:17,145 --> 00:21:19,887 - These tamales are filled with a Maya corn sauce 433 00:21:19,930 --> 00:21:23,630 before adding tomatoes and shredded chicken. 434 00:21:23,673 --> 00:21:24,848 Mmm. 435 00:21:27,329 --> 00:21:28,287 - [laughs] 436 00:21:31,768 --> 00:21:33,204 - ¿Sí? Yeah! - Uh-huh. 437 00:21:33,248 --> 00:21:37,078 [laughter] 438 00:21:37,121 --> 00:21:40,647 Being Maya tamales, there's only one way to cook them. 439 00:21:49,395 --> 00:21:51,440 - I'm starting to appreciate just how much 440 00:21:51,484 --> 00:21:53,703 cooking underground matters to the Maya. 441 00:21:53,747 --> 00:21:57,881 It represents the cycle of life, death, and rebirth. 442 00:22:01,537 --> 00:22:04,671 - [speaking Spanish] 443 00:22:12,461 --> 00:22:16,247 - [speaking Mayan] 444 00:22:16,291 --> 00:22:17,901 - Maybe it's because I grew up on a ranch 445 00:22:17,945 --> 00:22:19,512 cooking from scratch with my family 446 00:22:19,555 --> 00:22:21,862 or because I have some Mayan ancestry, 447 00:22:21,905 --> 00:22:26,040 I don't know, but this feels very comforting and familiar. 448 00:22:29,391 --> 00:22:31,872 Oh, wow. 449 00:22:38,182 --> 00:22:39,923 Look at that. That's super crispy. 450 00:22:39,967 --> 00:22:41,882 These are a very different texture 451 00:22:41,925 --> 00:22:43,362 from the steamed ones I make. 452 00:22:49,411 --> 00:22:51,587 - Wow. 453 00:22:51,631 --> 00:22:53,372 You guys, look at this. 454 00:22:57,245 --> 00:22:59,290 Mmm. 455 00:22:59,334 --> 00:23:03,207 It's crispy on the outside but really soft on the inside. 456 00:23:03,251 --> 00:23:04,208 Wow. 457 00:23:05,688 --> 00:23:07,647 Mmm. 458 00:23:07,690 --> 00:23:09,518 [laughter] - Pollo. 459 00:23:11,738 --> 00:23:13,392 - Mmm. 460 00:23:13,435 --> 00:23:16,569 I might have to start cooking my tamales underground, y'all. 461 00:23:16,612 --> 00:23:18,745 The Maya tradition of cooking underground 462 00:23:18,788 --> 00:23:20,181 is still alive today, 463 00:23:20,224 --> 00:23:22,575 and it keeps them connected to their land, 464 00:23:22,618 --> 00:23:25,273 to their history, and their culture. 465 00:23:28,755 --> 00:23:29,886 - Uh-huh. 466 00:23:35,762 --> 00:23:37,154 - Mm. 467 00:23:40,636 --> 00:23:42,464 - Mm-hmm. 468 00:23:42,508 --> 00:23:44,684 - Uh-huh. 469 00:23:44,727 --> 00:23:45,946 - Uh-huh. - Muchas gracias. 470 00:23:45,989 --> 00:23:47,948 The more I learn about Yucatán culture, 471 00:23:47,991 --> 00:23:50,037 the more I fall in love with it. 472 00:23:50,080 --> 00:23:52,213 Muchas gracias. - Uh-huh. 473 00:23:59,699 --> 00:24:01,831 [upbeat music] 474 00:24:04,660 --> 00:24:06,532 It's my turn to get starstruck 475 00:24:06,575 --> 00:24:08,925 and meet a chef I've admired for years: 476 00:24:08,969 --> 00:24:10,536 Regina Escalante. 477 00:24:10,579 --> 00:24:12,146 [gasps] 478 00:24:12,189 --> 00:24:14,627 - Hola. Mucho gusto. - It's so nice to meet you. 479 00:24:14,670 --> 00:24:16,324 I'm such a fan! 480 00:24:16,367 --> 00:24:18,457 - Oh, thank you for coming to Merci! 481 00:24:18,500 --> 00:24:20,067 Please, have a seat. - Yes, of course. 482 00:24:20,110 --> 00:24:21,982 Regina trained as a chef in France 483 00:24:22,025 --> 00:24:23,636 before returning home to Mérida 484 00:24:23,679 --> 00:24:26,987 to open her wildly popular restaurant, Merci. 485 00:24:27,030 --> 00:24:28,336 The thing I love about her is 486 00:24:28,379 --> 00:24:30,686 she obsesses about every detail 487 00:24:30,730 --> 00:24:34,864 but particularly the mother of all ingredients: salt. 488 00:24:34,908 --> 00:24:37,780 - And you know what's funny? That when I was in France, 489 00:24:37,824 --> 00:24:40,261 I learned about all these different types of salt. 490 00:24:40,304 --> 00:24:42,002 And for my surprise, when I came to Mérida 491 00:24:42,045 --> 00:24:43,786 and I learned that the quality of the product 492 00:24:43,830 --> 00:24:45,832 that we have here was just, like, 493 00:24:45,875 --> 00:24:48,095 really above and beyond on-- 494 00:24:48,138 --> 00:24:50,227 - A global level? - Yes, on a global level. 495 00:24:50,271 --> 00:24:52,534 - So you traveled the world just to return home 496 00:24:52,578 --> 00:24:54,536 and find you guys have the best salt in the world. 497 00:24:54,580 --> 00:24:55,537 - Yes. - [laughs] 498 00:24:55,581 --> 00:24:57,844 - Oh, yes. I definitely think so. 499 00:25:02,152 --> 00:25:05,808 - 50 miles west of Mérida is Celestún, 500 00:25:05,852 --> 00:25:07,636 an Instagrammer's paradise. 501 00:25:07,680 --> 00:25:10,204 Pink lakes, flamingos, blue skies, 502 00:25:10,247 --> 00:25:13,990 and blinding white salt flats. 503 00:25:14,034 --> 00:25:16,079 Were you born in Yucatán? - Yes. 504 00:25:16,123 --> 00:25:18,212 I was born and raised in Mérida. 505 00:25:18,255 --> 00:25:19,866 Well, my mother came to live here 506 00:25:19,909 --> 00:25:23,217 when she was from the U.S., when she was 18 years old. 507 00:25:23,260 --> 00:25:24,827 She was born in Pennsylvania. 508 00:25:24,871 --> 00:25:26,176 - So she's American. - Yeah. 509 00:25:26,220 --> 00:25:28,396 - We're both Mexican-American. - Yes! 510 00:25:28,439 --> 00:25:31,921 - Do you ever find it difficult to navigate that identity, 511 00:25:31,965 --> 00:25:33,357 or you love it? 512 00:25:33,401 --> 00:25:35,403 - Growing up in Mérida, for me, 513 00:25:35,446 --> 00:25:37,361 I used to be very shy about it. 514 00:25:37,405 --> 00:25:38,928 - I was a fish out of water. 515 00:25:38,972 --> 00:25:40,103 You know, people always say, like, 516 00:25:40,147 --> 00:25:42,366 "Oh, you're half Mexican, half American?" 517 00:25:42,410 --> 00:25:44,325 I'm like, "No. I'm 100% Mexican..." 518 00:25:44,368 --> 00:25:46,414 - Yes, I know. - "And 100% American 519 00:25:46,457 --> 00:25:48,590 at the same time, all the time." 520 00:25:48,634 --> 00:25:50,287 - That's what I try to do with my cooking, 521 00:25:50,331 --> 00:25:51,941 just to be unapologetic 522 00:25:51,985 --> 00:25:55,075 and just like the confidence that you give out to the world. 523 00:25:55,118 --> 00:25:56,946 - Oh, are these the salt lakes? 524 00:25:56,990 --> 00:25:58,992 - Yes, this is where it starts. 525 00:26:01,081 --> 00:26:05,215 - The salt flats of Celestún produce many forms of salt, 526 00:26:05,259 --> 00:26:07,827 but flor de sal is the purest. 527 00:26:07,870 --> 00:26:11,395 It's the magical result of climate and geography. 528 00:26:11,439 --> 00:26:14,268 Salty seawater combines with sweet rain, 529 00:26:14,311 --> 00:26:16,531 slowly evaporating in the tropical heat. 530 00:26:16,575 --> 00:26:20,666 And it leaves behind this pinkish-colored crystal. 531 00:26:22,232 --> 00:26:23,538 - Hola, Manuel. - Hola. Buenos días. 532 00:26:23,582 --> 00:26:24,757 - Presentó Eva. 533 00:26:24,800 --> 00:26:26,454 - Hola. Eva. Mucho gusto. - Mucho gusto. 534 00:26:26,497 --> 00:26:28,630 [speaking Spanish] - [speaking Spanish] 535 00:26:46,474 --> 00:26:47,910 - Oh, wow. 536 00:26:47,954 --> 00:26:49,346 - Sí. 537 00:26:49,390 --> 00:26:51,827 - The crystals here, they're much bigger 538 00:26:51,871 --> 00:26:53,742 than, like, a regular salt... - Yeah, yeah. 539 00:26:53,786 --> 00:26:55,352 - That you would have. - They're huge. 540 00:26:55,396 --> 00:26:58,181 - But it takes much longer to dissolve when you eat it. 541 00:26:58,225 --> 00:27:00,053 This salt will not leave us 542 00:27:00,096 --> 00:27:02,272 with, like, a real metallic flavor. 543 00:27:14,371 --> 00:27:15,938 - And this is also linked 544 00:27:15,982 --> 00:27:18,637 to when the flamingos come and visit Celestún. 545 00:27:18,680 --> 00:27:20,943 It's said that the flamingos get this pink color 546 00:27:20,987 --> 00:27:22,641 because they eat the artemia. 547 00:27:22,684 --> 00:27:26,253 - The harvesting of the flor de sal is so delicate, 548 00:27:26,296 --> 00:27:27,515 it has to be done by hand. 549 00:27:27,558 --> 00:27:29,038 Oh, God. I'm gonna mess it up. 550 00:27:29,082 --> 00:27:30,518 They say if you don't scoop it right, 551 00:27:30,561 --> 00:27:33,434 then it just becomes normal salt! 552 00:27:33,477 --> 00:27:36,350 No wonder it's the most expensive salt in the world. 553 00:27:37,612 --> 00:27:40,484 - Brilliant! - I did it. 554 00:27:43,313 --> 00:27:46,490 Now, this is a perfect spot for lunch. 555 00:27:46,534 --> 00:27:48,667 Wow! - So this is a sea bass. 556 00:27:48,710 --> 00:27:50,320 - You don't understand how excited I am 557 00:27:50,364 --> 00:27:53,367 to finally eat fish on a beach in the Yucatán. 558 00:27:53,410 --> 00:27:55,282 Do you know what? I'm surprised 559 00:27:55,325 --> 00:27:57,197 that there isn't more seafood 560 00:27:57,240 --> 00:27:59,373 in the Yucatán cuisine. - I know. 561 00:27:59,416 --> 00:28:01,636 Back in the day, people didn't have the ability 562 00:28:01,680 --> 00:28:03,551 to refrigerate food at their homes. 563 00:28:03,594 --> 00:28:05,292 - Mm-hmm. - My grandmother would tell me 564 00:28:05,335 --> 00:28:06,815 that when she grew up, people thought 565 00:28:06,859 --> 00:28:09,296 that they were gonna get sick of eating fish 566 00:28:09,339 --> 00:28:10,732 that was caught, like, in the morning. 567 00:28:10,776 --> 00:28:13,561 And with the heat, the food would spoil really fast. 568 00:28:13,604 --> 00:28:16,912 - The fish is stuffed with garlic, rosemary, thyme, 569 00:28:16,956 --> 00:28:19,349 that Yucatán favorite, sour orange, 570 00:28:19,393 --> 00:28:21,787 and of course, a healthy dose of salt. 571 00:28:21,830 --> 00:28:25,399 When you have ingredients this fresh, simplicity is key. 572 00:28:25,442 --> 00:28:27,880 You have specialized in, like, opening up 573 00:28:27,923 --> 00:28:31,971 the gastronomy here outside of the traditional Yucatán dishes. 574 00:28:32,014 --> 00:28:33,233 - I feel that here in Yucatán, 575 00:28:33,276 --> 00:28:35,626 there are so many great ingredients 576 00:28:35,670 --> 00:28:38,804 that I want to just let the ingredients speak for itself. 577 00:28:38,847 --> 00:28:42,372 We're gonna put some oil on it to start out. 578 00:28:42,416 --> 00:28:44,418 We're gonna prepare the brush. 579 00:28:44,461 --> 00:28:47,900 And this brush is gonna be our secret weapon 580 00:28:47,943 --> 00:28:50,424 to just layer up all these herbs. 581 00:28:50,467 --> 00:28:52,905 - This is a great idea, an herb brush. 582 00:28:52,948 --> 00:28:55,690 [sniffs] Oh, that smells so good. 583 00:28:55,734 --> 00:28:58,649 A brush made of parsley, rosemary, and thyme 584 00:28:58,693 --> 00:29:01,914 is also a neat way to apply the garlic purée. 585 00:29:01,957 --> 00:29:04,525 Oh, that's gorgeous. 586 00:29:04,568 --> 00:29:08,007 - We're gonna do some mangoes, also grilled. 587 00:29:08,050 --> 00:29:10,226 - And salt! 588 00:29:10,270 --> 00:29:11,967 This is my idea of food heaven. 589 00:29:12,011 --> 00:29:15,971 Truly, I'd have this as my last meal on Earth. 590 00:29:16,015 --> 00:29:17,581 - I'm gonna bring some of the-- - Bring the salt! 591 00:29:17,625 --> 00:29:19,105 - Flor. - Bring the salt. 592 00:29:19,148 --> 00:29:20,759 - [laughs] 593 00:29:26,155 --> 00:29:28,984 - Fish on a beach. Now, I feel like I'm in Mexico. 594 00:29:29,028 --> 00:29:31,291 I put my onions first. 595 00:29:31,334 --> 00:29:33,162 Now, for the star ingredient. 596 00:29:33,206 --> 00:29:36,296 - This is the flor de sal, so-- - This is the flor de-- 597 00:29:36,339 --> 00:29:37,514 - Yeah. - This is what we harvested. 598 00:29:37,558 --> 00:29:39,778 - You're just gonna put a little, tiny bit. 599 00:29:39,821 --> 00:29:41,867 So what's the secret in all of this? 600 00:29:41,910 --> 00:29:45,653 It's to season to perfection all the ingredients 601 00:29:45,696 --> 00:29:48,612 so that when you add the flor de sal, you don't overseason. 602 00:29:48,656 --> 00:29:50,614 - Yeah, mm-hmm. - OK? 603 00:29:56,795 --> 00:29:57,970 - Mmm. 604 00:29:58,013 --> 00:29:59,710 [gasps] 605 00:29:59,754 --> 00:30:01,538 Wow. 606 00:30:01,582 --> 00:30:04,324 Mmm, that fish is amazing! 607 00:30:04,367 --> 00:30:08,241 The contrast of the crunchy salt and the soft, sweet fish 608 00:30:08,284 --> 00:30:09,503 is just sublime. 609 00:30:09,546 --> 00:30:11,548 I feel like the Yucatán 610 00:30:11,592 --> 00:30:15,161 has the most appreciation for the land and the rain 611 00:30:15,204 --> 00:30:16,640 and the natural elements 612 00:30:16,684 --> 00:30:18,338 and the fruit that comes from the tree. 613 00:30:18,381 --> 00:30:21,123 Like, there's such a thank you to... 614 00:30:21,167 --> 00:30:22,733 - Yes. - La tierra. 615 00:30:22,777 --> 00:30:25,301 - We have delicious ingredients. 616 00:30:25,345 --> 00:30:28,652 And with delicious ingredients, we can make delicious recipes. 617 00:30:38,097 --> 00:30:41,013 [gentle music] 618 00:30:41,056 --> 00:30:44,016 ♪ ♪ 619 00:30:44,059 --> 00:30:46,105 - This is huge! 620 00:30:46,148 --> 00:30:50,283 ♪ ♪ 621 00:30:50,326 --> 00:30:54,809 Part of the magic of Yucatán is its world-famous pyramids, 622 00:30:54,853 --> 00:30:57,072 a reminder that the Maya have been shaping 623 00:30:57,116 --> 00:31:00,554 the landscape and culture here for the last 4,000 years. 624 00:31:03,383 --> 00:31:06,299 In honor of my own Mayan ancestry, 625 00:31:06,342 --> 00:31:08,954 I'm making a pilgrimage to Uxmal. 626 00:31:08,997 --> 00:31:11,521 Only 40 minutes' drive from Mérida, 627 00:31:11,565 --> 00:31:13,915 but it feels like a world away. 628 00:31:13,959 --> 00:31:15,395 Don Pepe! - Ah. 629 00:31:15,438 --> 00:31:17,179 - Don Pepe is a Mayan archaeologist, 630 00:31:17,223 --> 00:31:20,661 and he knows the secrets to this sacred site. 631 00:31:20,704 --> 00:31:23,403 And it's probably why he got the cool hat and I didn't. 632 00:31:33,195 --> 00:31:37,983 - [speaking Spanish] - No. 633 00:31:40,333 --> 00:31:42,944 Uxmal was built around 500 AD, 634 00:31:42,988 --> 00:31:45,773 and the level of detail here is mind-blowing. 635 00:32:09,231 --> 00:32:11,538 - Little wonder they worship the god of rain. 636 00:32:11,581 --> 00:32:12,974 Apart from the cenotes, 637 00:32:13,018 --> 00:32:16,804 there are no lakes or rivers in Yucatán. 638 00:32:45,180 --> 00:32:48,879 - This ability to collect water and irrigate crops 639 00:32:48,923 --> 00:32:51,230 allowed the ancient Maya to put down roots here 640 00:32:51,273 --> 00:32:53,406 and call it home. 641 00:32:58,977 --> 00:33:01,544 So I've heard that Don Pepe is a great cook. 642 00:33:01,588 --> 00:33:03,807 He and his wife, Maria, make this signature 643 00:33:03,851 --> 00:33:06,941 pork and bean broth inspired by Yucatán's history. 644 00:33:08,943 --> 00:33:11,598 The pork, a nod to the later arrival 645 00:33:11,641 --> 00:33:13,339 of the Spanish conquistadores. 646 00:33:23,131 --> 00:33:24,045 - Uh-huh. 647 00:33:27,483 --> 00:33:28,658 - Uh-huh. 648 00:33:32,880 --> 00:33:34,708 In honor of the Mayan rain god, 649 00:33:34,751 --> 00:33:36,927 water plays a key part. 650 00:33:39,191 --> 00:33:42,716 - Epazote is a bitter herb that many Mexicans swear 651 00:33:42,759 --> 00:33:44,848 stops the gassy side effects of beans. 652 00:33:44,892 --> 00:33:46,807 Oh, my gosh, I love beans, 653 00:33:46,850 --> 00:33:48,548 so I know I'm gonna love this one. 654 00:33:51,246 --> 00:33:52,595 - Oh, sal. OK. 655 00:34:00,908 --> 00:34:01,952 - Uh-huh. 656 00:34:08,916 --> 00:34:10,004 - Sí. 657 00:34:10,048 --> 00:34:12,006 - Of course it's cooked underground. 658 00:34:12,050 --> 00:34:14,965 This is Yucatán. 659 00:34:15,009 --> 00:34:17,881 Thankfully, Don Pepe already has one in the oven. 660 00:34:17,925 --> 00:34:19,231 Wow, I think you win... - Sí. 661 00:34:19,274 --> 00:34:21,929 the underground contest of most hours. 662 00:34:21,972 --> 00:34:24,062 [laughter] 663 00:34:24,105 --> 00:34:25,672 - El olor, yeah. 664 00:34:25,715 --> 00:34:27,456 - [sniffs] Oh, that smells good. 665 00:34:32,374 --> 00:34:33,680 - Wow. 666 00:34:33,723 --> 00:34:37,249 Mmm, it tastes like barbecue in a soup. 667 00:34:37,292 --> 00:34:38,641 Smells amazing. 668 00:34:38,685 --> 00:34:40,078 Oh, look at that. Look at that. 669 00:34:41,470 --> 00:34:43,603 - This is the pork. 670 00:34:44,821 --> 00:34:46,127 Oh, my gosh! - Sí. 671 00:34:46,171 --> 00:34:47,955 - I'm so excited about this. 672 00:34:52,090 --> 00:34:54,135 Wow, this is, like, 673 00:34:54,179 --> 00:34:56,485 definitely slow-cooked. 674 00:34:56,529 --> 00:34:58,922 This is just falling apart. 675 00:34:58,966 --> 00:35:00,272 Look at this one. Lookit. Lookit. 676 00:35:00,315 --> 00:35:01,534 Oh. 677 00:35:09,977 --> 00:35:11,283 - Mmm. 678 00:35:11,326 --> 00:35:12,762 Mmm. 679 00:35:16,026 --> 00:35:18,116 [laughter] 680 00:35:21,728 --> 00:35:23,295 - OK. - ¿Claro? 681 00:35:23,338 --> 00:35:26,080 - Wow, you can really taste the smokiness. 682 00:35:32,956 --> 00:35:34,741 In the U.S., we get jittery 683 00:35:34,784 --> 00:35:36,656 if our fast food isn't fast enough, 684 00:35:36,699 --> 00:35:38,353 but here in Yucatán, 685 00:35:38,397 --> 00:35:41,269 no one bats an eye if dinner takes two days to cook. 686 00:35:41,313 --> 00:35:42,618 Mmm. 687 00:35:42,662 --> 00:35:44,838 Sitting in the shadow of Uxmal, 688 00:35:44,881 --> 00:35:46,753 their pyramids are a constant reminder 689 00:35:46,796 --> 00:35:48,929 that good things take time. 690 00:35:58,417 --> 00:36:00,680 [gentle music] 691 00:36:00,723 --> 00:36:03,509 ♪ ♪ 692 00:36:03,552 --> 00:36:06,076 - I'm arriving in Izamal. 693 00:36:06,120 --> 00:36:10,080 This town used to be known for a Mayan pilgrimage. 694 00:36:10,124 --> 00:36:12,866 There's a lot of pyramids around. 695 00:36:12,909 --> 00:36:14,955 But now, it's really a food destination. 696 00:36:14,998 --> 00:36:16,826 So today, we are going to be making 697 00:36:16,870 --> 00:36:19,612 our food pilgrimage here. 698 00:36:19,655 --> 00:36:22,354 40 miles east of Mérida is Izamal, 699 00:36:22,397 --> 00:36:26,271 known as the Yellow City. 700 00:36:26,314 --> 00:36:28,055 You know you've arrived when you're surrounded 701 00:36:28,098 --> 00:36:30,492 with golden yellow walls on every street, 702 00:36:30,536 --> 00:36:33,974 on every building. 703 00:36:34,017 --> 00:36:35,454 Even the city's largest 704 00:36:35,497 --> 00:36:37,412 and most important building is yellow: 705 00:36:37,456 --> 00:36:40,241 the Monastery of St. Anthony of Padua. 706 00:36:42,809 --> 00:36:46,247 Hola. - [speaking Spanish] 707 00:36:46,291 --> 00:36:48,728 - Local restaurateur and Miriam Azcorra 708 00:36:48,771 --> 00:36:50,904 was born and raised in Izamal. 709 00:36:53,689 --> 00:36:55,125 - Oh. 710 00:37:00,566 --> 00:37:01,697 - Mm-hmm. 711 00:37:02,916 --> 00:37:04,352 - Oh, my gosh. - Sí. 712 00:37:04,396 --> 00:37:06,180 - When the Spanish conquered Izamal, 713 00:37:06,224 --> 00:37:08,051 they dismantled the pyramids, 714 00:37:08,095 --> 00:37:11,098 forcing the Maya to repurpose the stones. 715 00:37:13,753 --> 00:37:14,884 ¿No? 716 00:37:22,979 --> 00:37:24,242 - Con las piedras. - Con las piedras. 717 00:37:32,337 --> 00:37:34,904 - The monastery was built for a Christian god, 718 00:37:34,948 --> 00:37:36,645 but it remained holy to the Maya, 719 00:37:36,689 --> 00:37:40,780 who worshipped the sacred stones of their former temple. 720 00:37:43,652 --> 00:37:44,740 - Mm-hmm. 721 00:37:52,705 --> 00:37:54,620 - Así. Wow. 722 00:38:00,278 --> 00:38:04,456 ♪ ♪ 723 00:38:04,499 --> 00:38:07,415 - There are many theories of why the town is yellow. 724 00:38:07,459 --> 00:38:10,113 The most likely is because the largest pyramid in the area 725 00:38:10,157 --> 00:38:12,464 was dedicated to the sun god, 726 00:38:12,507 --> 00:38:16,729 but that's not the only yellow ball deified here. 727 00:38:18,992 --> 00:38:20,863 - Es queso. - Wow. 728 00:38:26,173 --> 00:38:29,437 - Amazingly, Dutch cheese is the main ingredient 729 00:38:29,481 --> 00:38:32,353 of queso relleno. 730 00:38:32,397 --> 00:38:34,747 It's the signature dish at Miriam's restaurant, Kinich, 731 00:38:34,790 --> 00:38:37,924 which specializes in home-cooked comfort food. 732 00:38:42,711 --> 00:38:44,496 How did Dutch cheese get here 733 00:38:44,539 --> 00:38:47,150 and become the most famous dish of this region? 734 00:38:52,460 --> 00:38:53,374 - Uh-huh. 735 00:38:55,245 --> 00:38:56,812 - But unlike the Europeans 736 00:38:56,856 --> 00:39:00,250 who prized these golden globes for the cheese inside, 737 00:39:00,294 --> 00:39:01,948 here, it's all about the part 738 00:39:01,991 --> 00:39:03,428 that I would usually throw away. 739 00:39:03,471 --> 00:39:05,821 So you're not gonna use the inside of the cheese? 740 00:39:05,865 --> 00:39:07,345 You're gonna use the outside of the cheese? 741 00:39:07,388 --> 00:39:08,346 - The outside. 742 00:39:09,695 --> 00:39:11,523 - It's said that once the wealthy merchants 743 00:39:11,566 --> 00:39:13,351 had scooped out the creamy cheese, 744 00:39:13,394 --> 00:39:15,483 their servants found an ingenious use 745 00:39:15,527 --> 00:39:17,180 for the discarded rind. 746 00:39:17,224 --> 00:39:18,486 OK. 747 00:39:19,705 --> 00:39:20,880 - OK. 748 00:39:24,797 --> 00:39:28,496 - The meat of choice? A familiar favorite: pork. 749 00:39:32,761 --> 00:39:33,936 - Sí, igual. 750 00:39:35,416 --> 00:39:36,374 - Uh-huh. 751 00:39:51,389 --> 00:39:52,477 - Mm. 752 00:39:59,614 --> 00:40:01,660 - Mm-hmm. 753 00:40:01,703 --> 00:40:02,878 - Capers. - Alcaparras. 754 00:40:02,922 --> 00:40:06,055 - I love capers, so let's put more. 755 00:40:06,099 --> 00:40:07,492 - Oh, this is almonds? 756 00:40:07,535 --> 00:40:09,842 Mediterranean bay leaves and olives 757 00:40:09,885 --> 00:40:13,367 also go into the pot, and then it's cooked again. 758 00:40:17,327 --> 00:40:19,417 So we close it back in a cheesecloth. 759 00:40:22,463 --> 00:40:24,944 - So it's just gonna take a bath. 760 00:40:28,382 --> 00:40:29,339 - Mm. 761 00:40:30,906 --> 00:40:32,604 - Sí. 762 00:40:32,647 --> 00:40:33,779 - Yeah. 763 00:40:36,999 --> 00:40:39,001 - Oh, yeah. That's soft. 764 00:40:39,045 --> 00:40:41,874 At last, our queso relleno is ready. 765 00:40:41,917 --> 00:40:44,964 Now, I understand what bursting with flavor means. 766 00:40:45,007 --> 00:40:47,140 Ooh, can I touch it? 767 00:40:47,183 --> 00:40:48,141 - Yes. 768 00:40:50,491 --> 00:40:52,406 - Oh, my goodness. 769 00:40:52,450 --> 00:40:55,453 That looks really good! 770 00:40:55,496 --> 00:40:58,847 Over 16 ingredients and three stages later, 771 00:40:58,891 --> 00:41:03,852 it's finished with a Mayan corn sauce and tomato salsa. 772 00:41:03,896 --> 00:41:06,638 This is one intricate dish, 773 00:41:06,681 --> 00:41:10,772 and I can see why diners come here to enjoy its complexity. 774 00:41:10,816 --> 00:41:12,382 Gracias. 775 00:41:15,647 --> 00:41:16,909 Mmm. 776 00:41:16,952 --> 00:41:18,171 - Mm. 777 00:41:19,694 --> 00:41:20,913 - Wow. 778 00:41:20,956 --> 00:41:22,480 Mmm. - Mmm. 779 00:41:24,525 --> 00:41:26,527 - Oh, that's so good. 780 00:41:27,572 --> 00:41:28,573 - Mm-hmm. 781 00:41:37,756 --> 00:41:41,977 - For me, this is the dish that sums up Yucatán. 782 00:41:42,021 --> 00:41:44,371 It's a region that isn't afraid 783 00:41:44,414 --> 00:41:46,286 to embrace different cultures. 784 00:41:46,329 --> 00:41:48,593 The people here are so secure 785 00:41:48,636 --> 00:41:51,378 in who they are and where they come from. 786 00:41:51,421 --> 00:41:54,163 New influences are simply blended with the ancient 787 00:41:54,207 --> 00:41:56,165 to create something unique. 788 00:41:56,209 --> 00:41:58,037 In Yucatán, there's an appreciation 789 00:41:58,080 --> 00:42:00,909 that good things are worth the wait. 790 00:42:00,953 --> 00:42:05,087 ♪ ♪ 53446

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