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These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:04,040 --> 00:00:05,480 For me, a great British castle 2 00:00:05,560 --> 00:00:08,080 is a fortress, a palace, a home. 3 00:00:10,480 --> 00:00:13,440 And a symbol of power, majesty, and fear. 4 00:00:15,720 --> 00:00:17,600 For nearly 1,000 years, 5 00:00:17,680 --> 00:00:20,360 castles have shaped Britain's famous landscape. 6 00:00:23,760 --> 00:00:26,400 These magnificent buildings have been home 7 00:00:26,480 --> 00:00:31,560 to some of the greatest heroes and villains in our national history. 8 00:00:31,640 --> 00:00:34,560 And many of them still stand proudly today 9 00:00:34,720 --> 00:00:37,080 bursting with incredible stories 10 00:00:37,160 --> 00:00:41,800 of warfare, treachery, intrigue, passion and murder. 11 00:00:44,640 --> 00:00:46,560 Join me, Dan Jones, 12 00:00:46,640 --> 00:00:51,440 as I uncover the secrets behind six great British castles. 13 00:00:53,080 --> 00:00:55,600 This time, I'm in Cardiff Castle. 14 00:00:55,800 --> 00:00:59,560 Today, it's bursting with Victorian wealth and splendor, 15 00:00:59,920 --> 00:01:02,880 but it also has a history rich in dastardly deeds, 16 00:01:03,400 --> 00:01:06,560 horrible executions, bloody rebellions, 17 00:01:06,840 --> 00:01:09,080 even helped fight off the Nazis. 18 00:01:16,920 --> 00:01:18,000 Good morning. Receipt please. 19 00:01:18,840 --> 00:01:19,840 Thank you. 20 00:01:23,320 --> 00:01:24,320 Good day. 21 00:01:24,400 --> 00:01:25,840 -Thank you very much. -All right. 22 00:01:33,320 --> 00:01:36,600 For many centuries, Britain had a wild west, 23 00:01:36,680 --> 00:01:39,560 fertile and full of opportunity 24 00:01:39,640 --> 00:01:43,240 but also lawless, violent and restless. 25 00:01:46,440 --> 00:01:47,680 Today, we call it Wales, 26 00:01:47,800 --> 00:01:51,920 a place famous for music for legends, and, of course, for rugby. 27 00:01:52,800 --> 00:01:56,240 Throughout its history, Wales has been fiercely independent. 28 00:01:56,360 --> 00:01:59,680 It has caused a lot of would be conquerors a lot of problems. 29 00:01:59,760 --> 00:02:02,680 And that's why the whole place is studded with castles, 30 00:02:02,760 --> 00:02:04,600 from the huge fortresses of the North 31 00:02:04,680 --> 00:02:08,480 to the strongholds here in the South near the Bristol Channel. 32 00:02:17,000 --> 00:02:20,680 My favorite of all of them is here in Cardiff. 33 00:02:22,480 --> 00:02:27,360 Today, Cardiff is the capital of Wales and one of Britain's greatest cities. 34 00:02:27,440 --> 00:02:31,360 It's also the place where Doctor Who is filmed, which is quite fitting, 35 00:02:31,440 --> 00:02:36,120 because over the centuries, Cardiff Castle has had plenty of its own incarnations. 36 00:02:38,880 --> 00:02:41,760 The original castle was built in the middle ages. 37 00:02:41,840 --> 00:02:46,600 But today's visitors are mostly coming to see the extraordinary rooms 38 00:02:46,680 --> 00:02:49,600 inside these Victorian gothic wings. 39 00:02:52,200 --> 00:02:54,880 They were built by the third Marquess of Bute, 40 00:02:54,960 --> 00:02:57,360 one of the richest men in the world. 41 00:02:57,520 --> 00:03:01,040 He spent a fortune on these lavish interiors 42 00:03:01,120 --> 00:03:03,240 at the end of the 19th century. 43 00:03:08,160 --> 00:03:10,520 This banqueting hall might look like something 44 00:03:10,600 --> 00:03:12,320 straight out of the middle ages, 45 00:03:12,400 --> 00:03:17,600 in fact it was built in the 1870's and no expense was spared. 46 00:03:17,680 --> 00:03:21,440 This was a time when medieval decoration was all the rage. 47 00:03:22,080 --> 00:03:26,120 But what I love about it is that as soon as you step into this room, 48 00:03:26,440 --> 00:03:31,080 you feel like you're transported into Cardiff Castle's incredible history. 49 00:03:45,160 --> 00:03:50,760 The story of Cardiff Castle begins in 1066 at the Battle of Hastings. 50 00:03:51,440 --> 00:03:54,880 Sailing from France, William Duke of Normandy 51 00:03:54,960 --> 00:03:59,680 challenged the Anglo-Saxon king Harold II for the throne of England. 52 00:04:02,600 --> 00:04:05,320 After a raging day long battle, 53 00:04:05,400 --> 00:04:06,880 Harold was killed. 54 00:04:06,960 --> 00:04:10,400 According to the legend, he took an arrow through the eye. 55 00:04:11,880 --> 00:04:16,760 On Christmas day, 1066, William, now known as "The Conqueror" 56 00:04:16,840 --> 00:04:19,560 was crowned King William I. 57 00:04:20,120 --> 00:04:24,400 William's Norman army set about colonizing the whole of England. 58 00:04:24,840 --> 00:04:28,560 They did it with castles which they built across the land. 59 00:04:31,640 --> 00:04:33,600 And when they were done with England, 60 00:04:33,680 --> 00:04:37,880 William and the Normans turned their sight westwards on Wales. 61 00:04:39,960 --> 00:04:42,600 But the Welsh weren't just going to roll over. 62 00:04:42,680 --> 00:04:47,040 The Normans had to do something dramatic to show off their power. 63 00:04:47,120 --> 00:04:50,000 And they did what they were most famous for. 64 00:04:50,080 --> 00:04:53,600 They built a castle right here in Cardiff. 65 00:04:58,320 --> 00:05:02,040 When the Normans got here, they found the remains of an ancient Roman fort 66 00:05:02,160 --> 00:05:04,480 built almost 1,000 years earlier 67 00:05:04,560 --> 00:05:06,840 to protect the conquering Roman soldiers 68 00:05:06,920 --> 00:05:10,200 from hostile tribes of native Britons living nearby. 69 00:05:11,320 --> 00:05:14,000 You can still see sections of the Roman wall here 70 00:05:14,080 --> 00:05:16,200 outlined in red sandstone. 71 00:05:16,280 --> 00:05:19,480 Now, the Romans left Britain in the fifth century AD. 72 00:05:19,560 --> 00:05:22,760 And forts like the one here at Cardiff were allowed to crumble. 73 00:05:22,840 --> 00:05:25,800 But when the Normans arrived, there was still enough left 74 00:05:25,880 --> 00:05:29,160 perfectly located and just begging to be built upon. 75 00:05:34,400 --> 00:05:36,080 Marc, this is a typical Norman castle? 76 00:05:36,160 --> 00:05:37,440 This is absolutely text book. 77 00:05:37,520 --> 00:05:39,360 What the Normans were doing after 1066... 78 00:05:39,440 --> 00:05:41,560 You've got a motte-and-bailey. 79 00:05:42,160 --> 00:05:45,080 The motte being this great mound of earth we see here, 80 00:05:45,160 --> 00:05:48,000 and the bailey being everything else, the wider enclosure. 81 00:05:48,440 --> 00:05:50,880 And the bailey is where you have basically all the buildings. 82 00:05:50,960 --> 00:05:53,440 You have your horses within here, you have your great hall, 83 00:05:53,520 --> 00:05:57,000 your chapel, your rooms where the knights sleep, everything. 84 00:05:57,080 --> 00:05:59,000 And is this what we call the keep? 85 00:05:59,080 --> 00:06:00,800 The bit on top, we would now call it the keep. 86 00:06:00,880 --> 00:06:03,800 They would've just called it either the motte or the great tower. 87 00:06:04,120 --> 00:06:05,800 We've got a stone tower here now, 88 00:06:05,880 --> 00:06:07,720 but back in William the Conqueror's day, 89 00:06:07,800 --> 00:06:10,360 a wooden tower on top, wooden buildings everywhere. 90 00:06:16,760 --> 00:06:18,560 Marc, what would this space have been used for? 91 00:06:18,920 --> 00:06:20,960 Well, the motte would've been used for defense 92 00:06:21,040 --> 00:06:22,400 if the castle was under attack. 93 00:06:22,480 --> 00:06:24,840 For living, when the Lord was in residence. 94 00:06:24,920 --> 00:06:26,440 But also used as a prison. 95 00:06:26,880 --> 00:06:30,280 One of the things that people tend to forget about the Normans, 96 00:06:30,440 --> 00:06:33,560 is that, whilst they were very violent in their warfare, 97 00:06:33,640 --> 00:06:36,480 when you surrendered to the Normans, they would spare your life. 98 00:06:36,560 --> 00:06:38,240 In a word, chivalrous. 99 00:06:38,600 --> 00:06:42,120 Because they had the ability, with castles, to confine people. 100 00:06:42,200 --> 00:06:44,400 You can lock them up and throw away the key, 101 00:06:44,480 --> 00:06:46,600 but you don't kill them, you just put them in prison. 102 00:06:48,560 --> 00:06:50,800 Cardiff Castle became the power base 103 00:06:50,880 --> 00:06:54,880 from which the Normans fought to control the natives of Wales 104 00:06:54,960 --> 00:06:57,600 and police the lands bordering England. 105 00:06:57,680 --> 00:06:59,320 In the centuries to come, 106 00:06:59,400 --> 00:07:02,440 Cardiff would be the scene of savage uprisings, 107 00:07:02,520 --> 00:07:06,440 brutal tyranny and blood curdling executions. 108 00:07:06,520 --> 00:07:10,880 But ironically, the first man to fall foul of Cardiff Castle 109 00:07:10,960 --> 00:07:13,920 was William the Conqueror's own son. 110 00:07:15,720 --> 00:07:19,480 Cardiff Castle was originally built in the 11th century, 111 00:07:19,560 --> 00:07:22,320 to impose the authority of William the Conqueror 112 00:07:22,400 --> 00:07:25,520 and his Norman invaders over South Wales. 113 00:07:27,960 --> 00:07:30,440 But bullying the Welsh was relatively easy. 114 00:07:30,760 --> 00:07:34,240 What the Normans couldn't do was get along with each other. 115 00:07:36,360 --> 00:07:42,120 When William the Conqueror died in 1087, he was survived by three sons. 116 00:07:42,200 --> 00:07:44,160 The oldest was called Robert, 117 00:07:44,400 --> 00:07:48,600 the second was another William, and the youngest was Henry. 118 00:07:50,600 --> 00:07:53,640 All three wanted their father's throne. 119 00:07:56,560 --> 00:08:00,720 The next in line should've been William the Conqueror's eldest son Robert. 120 00:08:01,080 --> 00:08:05,360 He was a little stout man and his nicknames included "Fat legs" 121 00:08:05,440 --> 00:08:08,800 and "Curthose" which basically means shorty pants. 122 00:08:09,320 --> 00:08:11,640 And Robert Curthose is buried here 123 00:08:11,720 --> 00:08:14,600 in one of the most magnificent buildings in England, 124 00:08:14,680 --> 00:08:16,200 Gloucester Cathedral. 125 00:08:19,600 --> 00:08:22,320 Robert was weak and easily influenced. 126 00:08:23,360 --> 00:08:26,120 He had fallen out with his father several times. 127 00:08:26,200 --> 00:08:30,600 And at the time of the old king William the Conqueror's death in 1087, 128 00:08:30,680 --> 00:08:32,600 Robert had been banished abroad. 129 00:08:33,440 --> 00:08:35,960 It was the middle brother, William Rufus, 130 00:08:36,040 --> 00:08:38,320 who was named as the Conqueror's successor 131 00:08:38,400 --> 00:08:41,360 and crowned King William II. 132 00:08:41,880 --> 00:08:45,000 But that wasn't the end of the family feud. 133 00:08:45,080 --> 00:08:49,360 In 1100, William II was killed in a hunting accident, 134 00:08:49,440 --> 00:08:51,720 when a stray arrow hit him in the back. 135 00:08:52,560 --> 00:08:55,920 This enabled the youngest brother to pounce. 136 00:08:56,000 --> 00:08:59,280 Robert Curthose was away fighting on a crusade, 137 00:08:59,360 --> 00:09:02,520 and in his absence, Henry now grabbed the throne, 138 00:09:02,600 --> 00:09:05,280 and was crowned Henry I. 139 00:09:12,400 --> 00:09:15,360 Understandably, Robert wasn't very impressed. 140 00:09:15,440 --> 00:09:18,920 Losing the crown to one younger brother, well, that was bad enough. 141 00:09:19,000 --> 00:09:21,880 Losing it to a second, it was starting to get a bit silly. 142 00:09:22,800 --> 00:09:27,760 He started raising troops and causing Henry as much trouble as possible. 143 00:09:27,840 --> 00:09:29,680 And that was his undoing. 144 00:09:30,200 --> 00:09:33,760 In 1106, Robert's armies clashed with Henry's armies 145 00:09:33,840 --> 00:09:36,240 at a great battle in Normandy. 146 00:09:36,320 --> 00:09:39,040 Robert was defeated and he was captured 147 00:09:39,120 --> 00:09:42,560 and his younger brother decided to put him out of the way for good. 148 00:09:49,600 --> 00:09:54,320 That didn't mean death, but the alternative was still pretty bad. 149 00:09:54,880 --> 00:09:58,440 Henry locked Robert up and threw away the key. 150 00:10:02,960 --> 00:10:06,120 At first, Robert was imprisoned in the West country. 151 00:10:06,200 --> 00:10:12,440 But after 20 years of that, in 1126, he was brought here to Cardiff Castle. 152 00:10:13,680 --> 00:10:15,640 By now, he was in his 70's. 153 00:10:15,720 --> 00:10:20,480 But he still had nearly another decade of captivity ahead of him. 154 00:10:23,920 --> 00:10:27,960 In 1134, when he was an extraordinary 80 years old, 155 00:10:28,040 --> 00:10:32,880 Robert Curthose died still imprisoned here in Cardiff Castle. 156 00:10:32,960 --> 00:10:36,160 Now, as the son of one king and the brother of another, 157 00:10:36,240 --> 00:10:38,720 he would've been in fairly luxurious conditions. 158 00:10:38,800 --> 00:10:41,400 This was more like house arrest than being locked in a dungeon. 159 00:10:42,160 --> 00:10:45,760 He spent his time here at Cardiff Castle learning the local language, 160 00:10:45,840 --> 00:10:50,480 and at least one poem in Welsh has traditionally been attributed to him. 161 00:10:50,560 --> 00:10:54,560 That includes the line, "Woe to him that is not old enough to die." 162 00:10:55,200 --> 00:10:58,120 I think that's an incredibly poignant insight, 163 00:10:58,200 --> 00:11:02,840 into the mind of a man who saw far more of the inside of Norman castles 164 00:11:02,920 --> 00:11:04,640 than he'd have ever wanted to. 165 00:11:08,760 --> 00:11:12,600 Robert Curthose wouldn't be the last enemy of the King of England 166 00:11:12,680 --> 00:11:15,400 to see out his days in Cardiff Castle, 167 00:11:16,400 --> 00:11:19,920 but few of them would die in their beds of old age. 168 00:11:20,680 --> 00:11:24,640 Instead, many suffered violent and painful ends 169 00:11:24,720 --> 00:11:29,720 as Cardiff Castle entered an era of executions and bloody rebellions. 170 00:11:35,400 --> 00:11:37,880 During the 12th and 13th centuries, 171 00:11:37,960 --> 00:11:41,160 Cardiff's defenses were constantly beefed up. 172 00:11:41,240 --> 00:11:45,120 The castle on the hill would've been connected to the southern gatehouse 173 00:11:45,200 --> 00:11:50,920 by a huge wall which split the courtyard known as the bailey, in two. 174 00:11:55,600 --> 00:11:57,680 In the early 14th century, 175 00:11:57,760 --> 00:12:01,600 Cardiff Castle passed into the hands of a family of English nobles 176 00:12:01,680 --> 00:12:03,440 called the Despensers. 177 00:12:03,840 --> 00:12:07,160 Under this family, the castle became a feared symbol 178 00:12:07,240 --> 00:12:11,640 of English power and authority, and Hugh Despenser, the Younger, 179 00:12:11,720 --> 00:12:16,720 proved to be one of the most merciless, blood-thirsty and hated men 180 00:12:16,880 --> 00:12:19,080 in the whole of Welsh history. 181 00:12:22,120 --> 00:12:24,640 Hugh Despenser was a ruthless, ambitious favorite 182 00:12:24,720 --> 00:12:27,960 of England's deeply unpopular king, Edward II, 183 00:12:28,120 --> 00:12:31,040 who came to the throne in 1307. 184 00:12:34,040 --> 00:12:36,040 Despenser used his influence with the king 185 00:12:36,120 --> 00:12:40,760 to build up a massive power base here in South Wales during the 1320's. 186 00:12:41,320 --> 00:12:45,720 He took the title Lord of Glamorgan which gave him control of Cardiff Castle. 187 00:12:45,800 --> 00:12:50,080 And from here, he exercised a reign of terror, tyranny, and corruption 188 00:12:50,160 --> 00:12:52,640 that would eventually shake the whole kingdom. 189 00:12:53,120 --> 00:12:58,000 One of his first acts of diabolical violence and flagrant injustice 190 00:12:58,080 --> 00:13:00,720 took place right here in the castle grounds. 191 00:13:07,080 --> 00:13:10,360 Despenser was despised throughout England 192 00:13:10,440 --> 00:13:13,760 because of his influence over the foolish King Edward. 193 00:13:13,840 --> 00:13:17,200 But he was especially loathed in South Wales. 194 00:13:18,000 --> 00:13:22,320 One of his most despicable acts involved a local Welsh hero 195 00:13:22,400 --> 00:13:24,160 called Llywelyn Bren. 196 00:13:30,240 --> 00:13:34,280 In 1316, bad weather had devastated crops 197 00:13:34,360 --> 00:13:37,520 and famine was ravaging the people of Wales. 198 00:13:42,360 --> 00:13:45,040 Provoked by the hardship all around him, 199 00:13:45,120 --> 00:13:50,320 Bren, a local Welsh Lord, rose in revolt against the King. 200 00:13:52,760 --> 00:13:56,680 Soon, his rebellion was spreading across all of South Wales. 201 00:14:06,600 --> 00:14:09,280 When Edward II learned about Bren's rising, 202 00:14:09,360 --> 00:14:12,400 he sent 2000 men into Wales to crush him. 203 00:14:12,880 --> 00:14:16,400 Now, this was a spectacular show of military force. 204 00:14:16,480 --> 00:14:20,280 And Bren soon realized, the only sensible option was to head, 205 00:14:20,360 --> 00:14:23,440 quite literally, for the hills, these hills, 206 00:14:23,680 --> 00:14:26,840 the rugged and wingswept, Brecon Beacons. 207 00:14:26,920 --> 00:14:28,840 But even that wasn't enough. 208 00:14:28,920 --> 00:14:32,080 With English troops approaching from two directions, 209 00:14:32,160 --> 00:14:36,320 on March, 1316, Llywelyn Bren surrendered. 210 00:14:40,200 --> 00:14:43,280 Bren's one condition was that he alone should be punished. 211 00:14:43,360 --> 00:14:45,440 Now, that impressed his English captors. 212 00:14:45,520 --> 00:14:48,080 They thought it was a great display of chivalry. 213 00:14:48,160 --> 00:14:52,160 Several high ranking English Lords asked the King to pardon him, 214 00:14:52,240 --> 00:14:53,760 but it didn't work out that way. 215 00:14:54,360 --> 00:14:57,560 In 1318, two years after he was captured, 216 00:14:57,640 --> 00:15:00,320 Bren was transferred to Cardiff Castle, 217 00:15:00,400 --> 00:15:03,080 and he fell into the hands of Hugh Despenser. 218 00:15:06,840 --> 00:15:09,080 This was a disaster for Bren, 219 00:15:09,160 --> 00:15:12,280 because once he'd gotten back to his stronghold, 220 00:15:12,360 --> 00:15:15,520 it became clear that the vengeful Despenser 221 00:15:15,600 --> 00:15:18,920 had no interest in letting Bren go free. 222 00:15:20,840 --> 00:15:26,560 In fact, he wanted him dead to send a message to his rival English lords 223 00:15:26,640 --> 00:15:29,080 who'd spoken up in Bren's favor. 224 00:15:29,160 --> 00:15:32,440 To flex his muscles and assert his power. 225 00:15:35,440 --> 00:15:38,120 Despenser's influence with the King was so great, 226 00:15:38,200 --> 00:15:40,240 that no one could stand in his way. 227 00:15:40,320 --> 00:15:44,280 Without the benefit of a fair trial with a total disregard for justice, 228 00:15:44,360 --> 00:15:46,360 he declared Bren a traitor 229 00:15:46,440 --> 00:15:49,240 and sentenced him to be hanged, drawn and quartered. 230 00:15:55,000 --> 00:15:58,400 This was a terrible way for an honorable man to go. 231 00:15:58,480 --> 00:16:00,920 Dragged through the streets behind a horse, 232 00:16:01,000 --> 00:16:04,720 choked with a noose, and disemboweled while still alive. 233 00:16:08,640 --> 00:16:13,360 It was one of the slowest, most savage, and agonizing deaths imaginable. 234 00:16:17,600 --> 00:16:21,120 With a taste for blood, and an iron grip on the King, 235 00:16:21,200 --> 00:16:24,800 very soon Despenser, the Master of Cardiff Castle, 236 00:16:24,880 --> 00:16:27,720 wasn't just terrorizing South Wales, 237 00:16:27,800 --> 00:16:30,600 he held sway over the whole kingdom. 238 00:16:33,640 --> 00:16:38,920 For the next four years, he would be the power behind Edward II's throne. 239 00:16:41,040 --> 00:16:45,120 But eventually, his evil deeds came back to bite him. 240 00:16:46,600 --> 00:16:50,440 Despenser's influence had estranged the King from his wife, 241 00:16:50,520 --> 00:16:53,920 Queen Isabella, who was in self-imposed exile in France. 242 00:16:55,040 --> 00:16:59,440 Now, the Queen teamed up with another mighty Baron from the Welsh borders 243 00:16:59,520 --> 00:17:01,240 called Roger Mortimer. 244 00:17:01,320 --> 00:17:05,040 Together, they launched an invasion of England 245 00:17:05,120 --> 00:17:10,040 overthrew the unpopular king, and put Despenser in prison. 246 00:17:11,320 --> 00:17:14,280 He was sentenced to the same horrific death 247 00:17:14,360 --> 00:17:16,320 that he inflicted on Bren, 248 00:17:16,400 --> 00:17:19,560 to be hanged, drawn and quartered. 249 00:17:19,920 --> 00:17:24,960 It was said that when he was imprisoned, he attempted to starve himself to death. 250 00:17:25,280 --> 00:17:27,640 But there was to be no escape. 251 00:17:42,760 --> 00:17:44,680 Here at Reading University, 252 00:17:44,760 --> 00:17:48,360 there's grizzly evidence that may help us to understand 253 00:17:48,440 --> 00:17:51,760 the savagery of death the Despensers suffered. 254 00:17:53,760 --> 00:17:55,760 Mary, where do this bones come from? 255 00:17:55,840 --> 00:17:59,400 So, they were discovered at Hulton Abbey in Staffordshire 256 00:17:59,480 --> 00:18:02,040 when they were excavated inside of the church. 257 00:18:02,120 --> 00:18:06,480 Why do we think these might be the remains of Hugh Despenser? 258 00:18:06,560 --> 00:18:12,040 So the bones we have c14 dating, so, they date around 1300's. 259 00:18:12,120 --> 00:18:15,840 And there were very few candidates, if this was hung, drawn and quartered, 260 00:18:15,920 --> 00:18:17,720 for that practice during that time. 261 00:18:18,520 --> 00:18:22,360 One was Hugh Despenser. So, I contacted the archivist 262 00:18:22,440 --> 00:18:24,720 in charge of the Abbey and the burials there. 263 00:18:25,160 --> 00:18:27,880 The archivist responded that Hugh Despenser, 264 00:18:27,960 --> 00:18:31,480 he had been executed and his wife petitioned for his head 265 00:18:31,560 --> 00:18:35,360 and few vertebra, and one of his thigh bone, and it took me a few minutes 266 00:18:35,440 --> 00:18:38,920 to realize that the elements in the skeleton that I was missing 267 00:18:39,000 --> 00:18:41,200 on my individual work is head, 268 00:18:41,520 --> 00:18:43,640 his thigh bone and some vertebra 269 00:18:43,720 --> 00:18:47,600 and it just seemed too much of a coincidence, really, not to be true. 270 00:18:48,520 --> 00:18:50,920 But probably the most obvious thing that we see 271 00:18:51,000 --> 00:18:53,320 one of the neck vertebra at the top, 272 00:18:53,400 --> 00:18:56,400 and there's a clean cut mark straight through the vertebra. 273 00:18:56,480 --> 00:18:58,480 And this is a very clear sign of beheading. 274 00:18:58,880 --> 00:19:00,720 If we move down the spine, 275 00:19:00,800 --> 00:19:04,280 -these are just higher up in his chest... -Okay. 276 00:19:04,360 --> 00:19:06,320 ...vertebra, and they have been sliced 277 00:19:06,920 --> 00:19:09,560 -down the middle, straight across... -I see. Yeah. 278 00:19:09,640 --> 00:19:11,720 ...by sword or an ax. 279 00:19:11,800 --> 00:19:13,720 So it's as if somebody has been cut 280 00:19:13,800 --> 00:19:15,240 -this way vertically... -Yes, yes. 281 00:19:15,320 --> 00:19:17,160 -Down the side of the skeleton. -Okay. 282 00:19:17,640 --> 00:19:21,400 So when you look at this vertebrae in particular, if you turn it over, 283 00:19:22,000 --> 00:19:24,160 there's also a very clean slice 284 00:19:24,240 --> 00:19:27,160 across the middle, so he's been cut this way 285 00:19:27,320 --> 00:19:29,800 -and cut that way, so he's been quartered. -Oh. 286 00:19:30,440 --> 00:19:33,880 So he would have been alive when he was being dragged by the back of the horse. 287 00:19:33,960 --> 00:19:35,800 And then, he would have been put on the ladder 288 00:19:35,880 --> 00:19:38,760 and he would have not been hanged the way we think of hanging. 289 00:19:38,840 --> 00:19:40,440 He would've actually been choked, 290 00:19:40,520 --> 00:19:43,480 so that he would've been alive when they were eviscerating him. 291 00:19:44,160 --> 00:19:47,560 And, probably, he only died when they took him down from the ladder 292 00:19:47,640 --> 00:19:49,000 and then they beheaded him. 293 00:19:49,080 --> 00:19:52,240 So, it was a very political execution, a very public execution. 294 00:19:52,680 --> 00:19:56,080 So all the evidence is pointing towards this being the skeleton 295 00:19:56,160 --> 00:19:57,360 of Hugh Despenser. 296 00:19:57,440 --> 00:20:01,320 I think there's a weight of evidence to suggest this is Hugh Despenser, yes. 297 00:20:05,120 --> 00:20:08,640 Hugh Despenser is remembered as brutal and evil, 298 00:20:08,720 --> 00:20:11,520 but also for reaping what he sowed. 299 00:20:12,360 --> 00:20:15,000 This stained glass window in the castle 300 00:20:15,080 --> 00:20:18,720 shows him with his coat of arms upside down. 301 00:20:19,040 --> 00:20:21,680 It's a sign of disgrace and shame. 302 00:20:22,880 --> 00:20:25,200 With Despenser's gruesome death, 303 00:20:25,280 --> 00:20:30,360 one of the most violent periods in the history of Cardiff Castle had ended. 304 00:20:30,440 --> 00:20:32,240 But in the coming centuries, 305 00:20:32,320 --> 00:20:35,400 the castle's defenses would be tested to their limit 306 00:20:35,480 --> 00:20:38,080 by some of the bloodiest rebellions in British history. 307 00:20:38,160 --> 00:20:39,160 Fire! 308 00:20:47,120 --> 00:20:51,200 By the 14th century, Cardiff Castle had come to symbolize 309 00:20:51,280 --> 00:20:54,760 the power of English Kings over the people of Wales. 310 00:20:57,920 --> 00:21:01,520 That power was wielded by the lords of Cardiff Castle 311 00:21:01,600 --> 00:21:04,600 such as the cruel and corrupt Hugh Despenser. 312 00:21:06,520 --> 00:21:11,000 As a result, the castle was always a natural target for rebellion. 313 00:21:16,720 --> 00:21:19,000 At the start of the 15th century, 314 00:21:19,080 --> 00:21:23,560 the last great Welsh rising against the English crown began. 315 00:21:26,360 --> 00:21:31,640 The Welsh national hero Owain Glyndwr claimed the title Prince of Wales 316 00:21:31,720 --> 00:21:35,520 and led a violent revolt against King Henry IV. 317 00:21:38,280 --> 00:21:42,360 By 1483, Glyndwr and his men burned the city of Cardiff 318 00:21:42,440 --> 00:21:44,560 and placed the castle under siege. 319 00:21:44,760 --> 00:21:47,440 Eventually, the castle running out of food, 320 00:21:47,520 --> 00:21:50,080 down to its last 24 cannonballs 321 00:21:50,160 --> 00:21:52,920 and a few bags of gun powder, they surrendered. 322 00:21:53,000 --> 00:21:55,440 But not before it had been badly damaged. 323 00:21:55,520 --> 00:21:59,080 It was a stunning victory for Glyndwr and the rebels. 324 00:22:04,800 --> 00:22:09,720 The English were humiliated, and although they eventually regained the castle, 325 00:22:09,800 --> 00:22:11,960 it took years for Henry IV 326 00:22:12,040 --> 00:22:15,680 to subdue Glyndwr's rebellions across South Wales. 327 00:22:16,240 --> 00:22:20,360 But when order was restored, the English took terrible revenge. 328 00:22:22,000 --> 00:22:24,720 The English passed a series of laws called the penal laws 329 00:22:25,040 --> 00:22:27,760 which stripped the native Welsh off their legal rights. 330 00:22:28,160 --> 00:22:32,440 Welshmen were forbidden to carry weapons, own properties in English towns, 331 00:22:32,520 --> 00:22:35,720 speak their own language, or hold public office. 332 00:22:36,160 --> 00:22:37,560 This was a form of apartheid. 333 00:22:37,640 --> 00:22:41,440 If you were within this castle's walls, you had personal rights. 334 00:22:41,600 --> 00:22:44,400 If you were outside, you barely had any. 335 00:22:47,520 --> 00:22:51,560 The draconian laws that followed the defeat of Glyndwr's rebellion 336 00:22:51,640 --> 00:22:53,960 may have been harsh and repressive, 337 00:22:54,040 --> 00:22:57,760 but they did succeed in subduing the population of Wales 338 00:22:57,840 --> 00:23:00,400 and a period of relative peace followed. 339 00:23:00,920 --> 00:23:03,200 A succession of aristocratic owners 340 00:23:03,280 --> 00:23:07,360 developed the castle buildings around the old Norman Keep. 341 00:23:07,920 --> 00:23:11,560 In Tudor times, these new wings were further expanded. 342 00:23:11,640 --> 00:23:13,560 But by the 17th century, 343 00:23:13,640 --> 00:23:17,040 Cardiff Castle was once more in the firing line 344 00:23:17,120 --> 00:23:21,080 as a new and deadly conflict began to grip Britain. 345 00:23:23,360 --> 00:23:27,120 In 1642, increasingly bitter hostilities 346 00:23:27,200 --> 00:23:30,920 between King Charles I and his enemies in parliament 347 00:23:31,000 --> 00:23:34,800 erupted into a civil war that tore Britain in half. 348 00:23:37,240 --> 00:23:39,400 The King's supporters, cavaliers, 349 00:23:39,480 --> 00:23:42,560 battled the parliamentary army, the roundheads, 350 00:23:42,800 --> 00:23:44,960 led by Oliver Cromwell. 351 00:23:46,000 --> 00:23:49,440 At stake was the whole system of British government. 352 00:23:50,080 --> 00:23:53,120 Should the country be ruled by headstrong kings 353 00:23:53,200 --> 00:23:56,320 or a dangerously radical parliament? 354 00:23:56,400 --> 00:23:57,920 During this long struggle, 355 00:23:58,000 --> 00:24:00,840 Cardiff Castle was besieged several times. 356 00:24:03,320 --> 00:24:07,960 It was held first by the parliamentarians and then by the royalists. 357 00:24:09,160 --> 00:24:13,160 As fighting with canon and guns spilled into the streets around it, 358 00:24:13,720 --> 00:24:15,640 the castle was badly damaged. 359 00:24:16,040 --> 00:24:17,480 And no wonder, 360 00:24:18,840 --> 00:24:22,160 gun powder was now being used extensively, 361 00:24:22,240 --> 00:24:24,600 and it changed the nature of warfare. 362 00:24:25,040 --> 00:24:27,600 Canons could wreck the castle walls 363 00:24:27,680 --> 00:24:32,280 and defenders and attackers alike were using small arms called muskets. 364 00:24:33,360 --> 00:24:36,000 To get a taste for this new form of warfare 365 00:24:36,080 --> 00:24:38,960 which challenged Cardiff Castle's defenses, 366 00:24:39,040 --> 00:24:40,160 I've come to have a go 367 00:24:40,240 --> 00:24:42,880 at firing a few weapons from the period myself. 368 00:24:48,640 --> 00:24:51,480 When did muskets appear on the battlefield? 369 00:24:51,920 --> 00:24:54,320 They took over nearly 17th century 370 00:24:54,400 --> 00:24:58,400 and are the dominant weapons on the battlefield until the 19th century. 371 00:24:58,480 --> 00:25:00,920 We've got some muskets here. They all look very different. 372 00:25:01,160 --> 00:25:04,240 This is a matchlock, which is the most common type. 373 00:25:04,320 --> 00:25:08,360 It's mass produced, and it fires with a piece of match 374 00:25:08,440 --> 00:25:10,920 held at the serpent mechanism here. 375 00:25:11,680 --> 00:25:14,400 This is a wheel lock. 376 00:25:14,480 --> 00:25:18,080 It's more expensive and therefore rarer than the matchlock 377 00:25:18,160 --> 00:25:21,880 and has a flint in the firing mechanism here 378 00:25:22,240 --> 00:25:24,120 which does the firing for you. 379 00:25:24,440 --> 00:25:27,920 And this is a carbine, this a cut down version of the flintlock. 380 00:25:28,000 --> 00:25:30,720 Really useful for cavalry, 'cause you can take it by your saddle 381 00:25:30,800 --> 00:25:32,240 and dismount and fire with it. 382 00:25:32,880 --> 00:25:34,200 And what do they all fire? 383 00:25:34,840 --> 00:25:37,880 They fire lead balls, 384 00:25:38,320 --> 00:25:41,040 like, this is an actual civil war musket ball 385 00:25:41,160 --> 00:25:43,680 and you see, it's half an inch across, solid lead. 386 00:25:43,760 --> 00:25:46,760 When it hits you, the entry wound's half an inch across. 387 00:25:47,040 --> 00:25:49,720 The lead will then spread out and impact with your body. 388 00:25:49,840 --> 00:25:51,960 So the exit wound on the far side of you 389 00:25:52,040 --> 00:25:54,480 is going to be about six inches across, maximum. 390 00:25:54,560 --> 00:25:57,400 You're gonna have a horrible death. Even the guns are dangerous. 391 00:25:57,800 --> 00:25:59,160 They are totally inaccurate. 392 00:25:59,240 --> 00:26:01,000 Well, I think we should have a go at firing them. 393 00:26:01,080 --> 00:26:04,680 Let's go for it. I suggest you have this. 394 00:26:05,080 --> 00:26:07,720 -Thank you very much indeed. -The up market version. 395 00:26:07,800 --> 00:26:08,960 Yes, it feels very smart. 396 00:26:09,040 --> 00:26:11,320 I'll take the heavy, ponderous, more dangerous one. 397 00:26:15,560 --> 00:26:18,200 Colin, you're the man who's gonna make sure we don't blow ourselves up. 398 00:26:18,280 --> 00:26:20,440 Hopefully. Hopefully, don't blow yourselves up. 399 00:26:20,560 --> 00:26:23,040 Well, talk me through how this musket works. 400 00:26:23,120 --> 00:26:24,320 This is a wheel lock. 401 00:26:25,240 --> 00:26:27,720 And you've got to put in the main charge 402 00:26:27,800 --> 00:26:29,520 which is one measure of gun powder. 403 00:26:29,600 --> 00:26:32,960 -Goes down the barrel? -Goes down in the barrel, that's it. 404 00:26:33,040 --> 00:26:35,040 Right. So now, this gun is full of gun powder 405 00:26:35,120 --> 00:26:36,840 and I'm slightly more scared than I was. 406 00:26:36,920 --> 00:26:38,880 Oh, you have every reason to be, sir. 407 00:26:38,960 --> 00:26:40,280 I'm gonna give you that. 408 00:26:40,360 --> 00:26:42,120 -Right. -Take a bit of wadding... 409 00:26:42,200 --> 00:26:44,520 -Okay. -Put it right there in the gun. 410 00:26:44,600 --> 00:26:45,600 Mmm-hmm. 411 00:26:47,000 --> 00:26:48,160 And this is the ramrod. 412 00:26:48,240 --> 00:26:50,320 -This is the ramrod. -Ramrod straight. 413 00:26:50,400 --> 00:26:52,440 -Absolutely. -Mmm. So I do know a bit. 414 00:26:52,520 --> 00:26:54,360 This isn't gonna blow up when I do this, is it? 415 00:26:55,440 --> 00:26:57,520 - Let's see. -Let's see. 416 00:26:57,600 --> 00:26:59,760 -Tell my wife I love her. -That'll do. 417 00:27:00,160 --> 00:27:02,720 -Good. Replace the ramrod. -Okay. 418 00:27:02,800 --> 00:27:04,920 And that gun is now ready to go. 419 00:27:05,000 --> 00:27:07,560 Keep it away from your face. Don't point it at anybody. 420 00:27:07,640 --> 00:27:09,840 So, I take the key and give it 421 00:27:10,600 --> 00:27:11,880 -a bit of a turn. -Yeah. 422 00:27:11,960 --> 00:27:13,040 There we are. 423 00:27:15,000 --> 00:27:16,520 Are we about to give fire? 424 00:27:16,840 --> 00:27:19,280 To your front, present, gentlemen. 425 00:27:19,360 --> 00:27:21,640 -What does that mean? -It means point it. 426 00:27:21,720 --> 00:27:22,760 Point it. 427 00:27:22,920 --> 00:27:23,960 Okay. 428 00:27:24,040 --> 00:27:25,520 Give fire! 429 00:27:25,600 --> 00:27:26,840 -Whoo! 430 00:27:29,960 --> 00:27:32,240 -I think it fired. -It did fire. 431 00:27:32,400 --> 00:27:33,560 I heard something. 432 00:27:33,640 --> 00:27:35,640 -Yeah. -And mine fell out. 433 00:27:35,720 --> 00:27:36,840 I'm dead. 434 00:27:36,920 --> 00:27:39,480 You want to try touch firing if I hold the barrel for you. 435 00:27:39,560 --> 00:27:40,560 Yes. 436 00:27:40,760 --> 00:27:42,120 Give him fire. 437 00:27:42,200 --> 00:27:43,240 -Whoo! 438 00:27:45,040 --> 00:27:46,040 Wow! 439 00:27:48,560 --> 00:27:49,560 Perfect. 440 00:27:52,400 --> 00:27:55,440 After the battering it took in the Civil War, 441 00:27:55,760 --> 00:27:58,920 Cardiff Castle was lucky to be left standing. 442 00:27:59,040 --> 00:28:01,920 The keep on the hill was badly damaged. 443 00:28:02,160 --> 00:28:05,560 And it might've decayed into obscurity and ruin, 444 00:28:05,640 --> 00:28:09,880 but for a wedding that changed the fortunes, not only of the castle, 445 00:28:10,000 --> 00:28:12,000 but of the whole of Cardiff. 446 00:28:17,880 --> 00:28:22,600 In 1766, an heiress called Charlotte Jane Windsor, 447 00:28:22,680 --> 00:28:26,920 daughter of an aristocrat and MP and the heir to Cardiff Castle 448 00:28:27,000 --> 00:28:31,000 married a wealthy Scottish land owner, Lord Mount Stuart, 449 00:28:31,240 --> 00:28:35,720 the man who had been better known as the first Marquess of Bute. 450 00:28:37,040 --> 00:28:41,560 Together, they set about transforming the castle that Charlotte had inherited 451 00:28:41,640 --> 00:28:44,360 into a comfortable Georgian mansion. 452 00:28:47,720 --> 00:28:51,480 They employed the most famous landscape designer of the day 453 00:28:51,560 --> 00:28:54,080 Lancelot Capability Brown, 454 00:28:54,160 --> 00:28:56,760 to redevelop the castle and its gardens. 455 00:28:57,080 --> 00:29:02,240 Brown infuriated many locals when he demolished the massive bailey wall 456 00:29:02,320 --> 00:29:06,160 and swept away a number of ancient historic buildings 457 00:29:06,240 --> 00:29:09,600 to create a sweeping English landscape garden. 458 00:29:11,520 --> 00:29:16,200 The Marquess of Bute also transformed the town around the castle. 459 00:29:16,280 --> 00:29:18,560 And it all started with coal. 460 00:29:27,160 --> 00:29:29,840 By the 19th century, the Welsh valleys 461 00:29:29,920 --> 00:29:33,000 became studded with steel works and coal mines. 462 00:29:33,080 --> 00:29:36,440 Like this one known as the big pit. 463 00:29:39,360 --> 00:29:42,360 Coal was the super fuel of the industrial revolution. 464 00:29:42,920 --> 00:29:46,680 All the new technology was powered by steam, and to make steam 465 00:29:46,760 --> 00:29:49,480 you need coal and plenty of it. 466 00:29:49,800 --> 00:29:51,920 As well as owning Cardiff Castle, 467 00:29:52,000 --> 00:29:54,640 the Bute family owned vast tracts of land 468 00:29:54,720 --> 00:29:56,240 here in South Wales. 469 00:29:56,760 --> 00:29:59,160 In the early 19th century, it was discovered 470 00:29:59,240 --> 00:30:03,560 that all this land was lying on top of rich seams of coal. 471 00:30:03,840 --> 00:30:06,640 The second Marquess of Bute quickly realized 472 00:30:06,720 --> 00:30:11,280 just how valuable the coal could be and he exploited it to its fullest, 473 00:30:11,520 --> 00:30:14,480 changing Cardiff and its castle forever. 474 00:30:15,320 --> 00:30:21,080 The Bute family made Cardiff Castle and the city around it what it is today. 475 00:30:21,520 --> 00:30:27,720 And to turn all that coal into hard cash, someone had to dig it out of the ground. 476 00:30:28,320 --> 00:30:30,200 Everything the Butes created 477 00:30:30,280 --> 00:30:33,920 was based on the hard labor of local people. 478 00:30:34,040 --> 00:30:38,400 And the best place to see it is quite literally at the coalface 479 00:30:38,480 --> 00:30:40,040 at the bottom of this mine. 480 00:30:43,720 --> 00:30:45,720 How long has this mine been here? 481 00:30:45,800 --> 00:30:47,440 How long have people been coming up and down? 482 00:30:47,520 --> 00:30:51,200 Well, a shaft was first sunk in 1860, not quite to the bottom. 483 00:30:51,280 --> 00:30:53,960 In 1880, they made the hole a little bit deeper 484 00:30:54,040 --> 00:30:55,800 to where we go into today, right in the bottom. 485 00:30:55,880 --> 00:31:00,680 So the men have been coming down this shaft for what, 120, 130 years? 486 00:31:00,760 --> 00:31:02,080 -Yeah, yeah. -Maybe more, okay. 487 00:31:05,640 --> 00:31:07,440 Right, welcome to the bottom. 488 00:31:07,520 --> 00:31:10,840 -Here we are. -Ninety meters underground, 90 meters. 489 00:31:10,920 --> 00:31:13,080 -Wow. -Can you turn your light on for me? 490 00:31:13,160 --> 00:31:14,520 -Of course, yeah. -Yeah. 491 00:31:15,040 --> 00:31:16,960 So how many miles of tunnels are there? 492 00:31:17,040 --> 00:31:19,320 We reckon up to 26 miles of roadway. 493 00:31:24,160 --> 00:31:26,880 When I was a kid, my grandparents used to bring me here 494 00:31:26,960 --> 00:31:31,640 and it's still incredibly atmospheric to be down in these tunnels. 495 00:31:32,000 --> 00:31:35,440 What you really get when you're here is the sense that 496 00:31:35,600 --> 00:31:39,480 this was hard, brutal, back-breaking work. 497 00:31:39,560 --> 00:31:42,600 It was hot, it was dangerous. In the 19th century, 498 00:31:42,680 --> 00:31:46,040 there was a precious little legislation to protect the people, 499 00:31:46,120 --> 00:31:49,160 men, women and children as young as five years old 500 00:31:49,240 --> 00:31:52,440 who were toiling away in these tunnels. 501 00:31:52,680 --> 00:31:54,680 But what you've also got to remember 502 00:31:54,760 --> 00:32:00,040 is that the painstaking work dragging coal out of here, up to the surface, 503 00:32:00,120 --> 00:32:03,800 is what turned Cardiff into an industrial powerhouse 504 00:32:03,880 --> 00:32:07,120 and made the Bute family of Cardiff Castle 505 00:32:07,200 --> 00:32:10,120 one of the wealthiest families in the world. 506 00:32:18,280 --> 00:32:22,360 All that coal and iron from the valleys needed to be exported 507 00:32:22,440 --> 00:32:24,480 to markets around the world. 508 00:32:24,720 --> 00:32:28,680 So the second Marquess of Bute built Cardiff docks 509 00:32:28,760 --> 00:32:33,640 and transformed the town into one of the biggest ports in the world. 510 00:32:48,600 --> 00:32:54,600 Bute's ambitious development led to a boom in the city's industry and population 511 00:32:54,680 --> 00:32:57,280 during the middle of the 19th century. 512 00:33:12,680 --> 00:33:17,600 The population of Cardiff exploded from less than 2000 in 1801 513 00:33:17,680 --> 00:33:20,680 to 150,000 a century later. 514 00:33:20,760 --> 00:33:24,400 By 1880, Cardiff had transformed from a small town 515 00:33:24,480 --> 00:33:26,720 into one of the world's busiest ports 516 00:33:26,800 --> 00:33:30,160 with its docks handling more traffic than New York. 517 00:33:31,720 --> 00:33:36,120 With the vast wealth they accrued, successive generations of Butes 518 00:33:36,200 --> 00:33:40,520 transformed the castle into a palatial family home. 519 00:33:40,840 --> 00:33:45,840 And soon, Cardiff Castle would become famous for the extraordinary richness 520 00:33:45,920 --> 00:33:48,160 and opulence of its interiors. 521 00:33:49,840 --> 00:33:54,520 Yet, despite the centuries of peace and prosperity that Cardiff had enjoyed, 522 00:33:54,600 --> 00:33:57,720 its castle would be called once more into military service. 523 00:34:00,480 --> 00:34:03,960 Fortifications originally built in the 11th century 524 00:34:04,040 --> 00:34:07,040 would be tested by 20th century invaders, 525 00:34:07,120 --> 00:34:08,160 the Nazis. 526 00:34:16,560 --> 00:34:19,400 From the earliest times, Cardiff Castle kept watch 527 00:34:19,480 --> 00:34:20,800 over the bad lands of Wales, 528 00:34:21,440 --> 00:34:24,520 keeping the unruly natives in check. 529 00:34:24,600 --> 00:34:27,920 Under the Tudors, the walls were strengthened and extended. 530 00:34:30,360 --> 00:34:33,200 Then a family of Scottish nobles, the Butes, 531 00:34:33,280 --> 00:34:35,360 not only embellished these buildings, 532 00:34:35,440 --> 00:34:37,040 they redeveloped the docks, 533 00:34:37,120 --> 00:34:40,800 transforming Cardiff from a small town on the edge of a fortress 534 00:34:40,880 --> 00:34:42,840 into a major modern city. 535 00:34:44,240 --> 00:34:48,000 In 1865, John, the third Marquess Bute, 536 00:34:48,120 --> 00:34:50,800 reputed to be one of the richest men in the world, 537 00:34:51,160 --> 00:34:54,720 decided to give Cardiff Castle a makeover. 538 00:34:55,000 --> 00:34:57,200 He asked the architect William Burges 539 00:34:57,280 --> 00:34:59,960 to produce a report on the state of the castle 540 00:35:00,040 --> 00:35:04,160 with a view to refurbishing it on a grand scale. 541 00:35:04,600 --> 00:35:09,920 The report was one of the most important documents in this castle's history. 542 00:35:10,320 --> 00:35:15,360 Turning an old fortress into one of the most extraordinary gothic palaces 543 00:35:15,440 --> 00:35:17,320 in the whole of Britain. 544 00:35:21,880 --> 00:35:25,280 This is a pretty incredible room. Which part of the castle are we in here? 545 00:35:25,360 --> 00:35:28,200 We're in the clock tower which is the first part of the tower 546 00:35:28,280 --> 00:35:30,400 to be done as part of a rebuild. 547 00:35:30,480 --> 00:35:34,240 The theme is one of time, and if you start looking at the ceiling, 548 00:35:34,320 --> 00:35:37,440 you will see the signs of the zodiac up there 549 00:35:37,680 --> 00:35:40,080 and each of the four seasons. 550 00:35:40,160 --> 00:35:41,640 What was this room used for? 551 00:35:42,120 --> 00:35:44,480 This one is called the winter smoking room. 552 00:35:44,560 --> 00:35:47,000 So, you'd think, you know, they would come in here 553 00:35:47,080 --> 00:35:50,000 for cigarettes, and cigars, and port after dinner. 554 00:35:50,280 --> 00:35:55,800 Lord Bute experimented with drug tobacco and William Burges smoked opium. 555 00:35:56,120 --> 00:35:59,000 But that wasn't unusual for Victorian artists and designers. 556 00:35:59,080 --> 00:36:01,920 But it would explain a lot of the design in this. 557 00:36:02,000 --> 00:36:03,400 Well, it's very easy to run away 558 00:36:03,480 --> 00:36:06,440 with the idea of this being an opium induced fantasy. 559 00:36:06,520 --> 00:36:09,640 I think that's overstating it. It isn't. 560 00:36:09,720 --> 00:36:12,720 But, certainly, it's that period of imagination and dreams 561 00:36:13,200 --> 00:36:15,440 and Lewis Carroll and all that sort of thing. 562 00:36:15,520 --> 00:36:19,560 And they just don't know where to stop because every surface is covered. 563 00:36:24,480 --> 00:36:27,960 So whose room is it that has mirrors all over the ceiling? 564 00:36:29,440 --> 00:36:32,480 Yeah, I'm afraid you can't miss them, can you? This is Lord Bute's bedroom. 565 00:36:32,680 --> 00:36:34,040 Bit of a puny bed, isn't it? 566 00:36:34,120 --> 00:36:35,680 It is a single bed as you can see. 567 00:36:35,760 --> 00:36:38,760 But, actually, this was more of a dressing room than a bedroom. 568 00:36:38,840 --> 00:36:40,720 Oh, this must've cost a fortune. 569 00:36:40,800 --> 00:36:42,320 Lord Bute had a fortune. 570 00:36:42,400 --> 00:36:45,000 He had an income of about £300,000 a year. 571 00:36:45,080 --> 00:36:46,680 This is in the 1860's. 572 00:36:46,800 --> 00:36:49,000 I mean, millions and millions of pounds. 573 00:36:49,560 --> 00:36:54,960 But he was using industrial money to put black gold, coal, 574 00:36:55,040 --> 00:36:57,400 -into real gold on the ceiling. -Yeah. 575 00:36:59,680 --> 00:37:01,840 Bute was creating a pleasure palace 576 00:37:01,920 --> 00:37:04,920 incorporating all of the luxuries of the day. 577 00:37:06,760 --> 00:37:10,040 There is a wonderful bath, which of course, is all plumbed in. 578 00:37:10,120 --> 00:37:11,960 There's a working lavatory here, 579 00:37:12,040 --> 00:37:15,480 one of the earliest flushing loos in the city. 580 00:37:15,560 --> 00:37:18,560 And, also, other things. I mean, there was central heating, 581 00:37:18,640 --> 00:37:21,040 in the house, there was electric light. 582 00:37:21,400 --> 00:37:25,320 We were the first house in Wales to be lit by electric lighting in 1883. 583 00:37:25,400 --> 00:37:27,160 So is this medieval, but with all the mod-cons? 584 00:37:27,240 --> 00:37:29,280 Yeah, it's seeing the middle ages by moonlight. 585 00:37:29,360 --> 00:37:32,520 It's a very romanticized idea of the past. 586 00:37:32,600 --> 00:37:35,360 But also making sure that you are absolutely comfortable. 587 00:37:51,800 --> 00:37:55,080 We're at the top of the castle now. What was this room used for? 588 00:37:55,160 --> 00:37:57,960 That a good question really, I don't know. In fact, 589 00:37:58,040 --> 00:38:00,720 I think it's one of those secret worlds 590 00:38:00,800 --> 00:38:03,760 that Lord Bute had at the tops of so many of these towers. 591 00:38:03,840 --> 00:38:07,200 Little, personal, private spaces all for himself. 592 00:38:07,440 --> 00:38:09,040 But also reflects his interests. 593 00:38:09,120 --> 00:38:12,560 All over the walls, there's this incredible religious imagery 594 00:38:12,640 --> 00:38:14,920 with Hebrew writing underneath it. 595 00:38:15,000 --> 00:38:17,080 -Was he particularly a religious man? -Oh, he was. 596 00:38:17,160 --> 00:38:20,720 He was a Roman Catholic convert, so he converted when he was 21. 597 00:38:20,800 --> 00:38:23,120 But look at the details that are pure medieval. 598 00:38:23,200 --> 00:38:24,400 Look at this wonderful fountain. 599 00:38:24,480 --> 00:38:28,240 The water would've come out of the mouths of these fish 600 00:38:28,320 --> 00:38:30,440 that are being held by beavers. 601 00:38:30,520 --> 00:38:32,240 This is all done with a great zest, 602 00:38:32,320 --> 00:38:34,600 a great imagination, and a great sense of fun. 603 00:38:34,720 --> 00:38:38,320 Despite the religion, Bute didn't take 604 00:38:38,400 --> 00:38:42,440 the creative process that seriously. This castle is meant to be enjoyed. 605 00:38:50,200 --> 00:38:51,440 But in some ways, 606 00:38:51,520 --> 00:38:55,920 it's a miracle that any of this Victorian splendors survives today. 607 00:38:56,000 --> 00:39:00,280 Because in the 20th century, a new enemy took aim at Cardiff. 608 00:39:00,520 --> 00:39:05,920 And this enemy threatened to wipe the city, and the castle, off the map. 609 00:39:15,960 --> 00:39:20,720 In 1939, Britain declared war on Nazi Germany. 610 00:39:21,280 --> 00:39:26,800 One year later, cities across Britain suffered devastating bombing raids. 611 00:39:28,160 --> 00:39:31,600 In Cardiff, 33,000 houses were bombed 612 00:39:31,680 --> 00:39:35,640 and almost 400 civilians killed during the course of the war, 613 00:39:35,720 --> 00:39:38,520 as the Nazis targeted Bute's docks. 614 00:39:39,640 --> 00:39:42,440 That death toll could've been far higher, 615 00:39:42,520 --> 00:39:47,200 but fortunately for the people of Cardiff, the castle came to the rescue. 616 00:39:50,880 --> 00:39:53,800 This castle's walls were built to withstand the worst 617 00:39:53,880 --> 00:39:55,680 the middle ages could throw at them. 618 00:39:55,760 --> 00:39:58,400 But when the blitz began in Cardiff, it was realized 619 00:39:58,480 --> 00:40:01,600 they could probably stand up to German bombs as well. 620 00:40:04,840 --> 00:40:08,680 Here, in the medieval ramparts, four entrance holes were cut 621 00:40:08,760 --> 00:40:12,720 leading to a network of tunnels deep below the rock. 622 00:40:16,720 --> 00:40:19,720 They were close enough to the city center for people to flee here 623 00:40:19,800 --> 00:40:23,480 when they heard the air-raid siren. You can still explore them today. 624 00:40:40,360 --> 00:40:42,720 The castle survived the blitz. 625 00:40:45,320 --> 00:40:49,680 Shortly after the war, the fifth Marquess of Bute inherited the castle. 626 00:40:50,200 --> 00:40:53,760 But with his family fortunes having declined substantially, 627 00:40:53,840 --> 00:40:55,320 he found himself struggling. 628 00:40:56,680 --> 00:41:01,200 With a heavy heart, he sold off the last of the family's property in Cardiff 629 00:41:01,360 --> 00:41:05,160 and gave the castle and the landscape parklands around it 630 00:41:05,240 --> 00:41:06,720 as a gift to the city. 631 00:41:13,600 --> 00:41:18,240 It severed the Bute family's 181 year connection with Cardiff, 632 00:41:18,320 --> 00:41:21,120 but gave the city a lasting legacy. 633 00:41:30,280 --> 00:41:32,440 Wales isn't the wild west anymore. 634 00:41:32,520 --> 00:41:34,440 The only battles fought here today 635 00:41:34,520 --> 00:41:37,240 are on the turf of the Principality Stadium. 636 00:41:37,840 --> 00:41:40,920 But this fortress stands as a vivid reminder 637 00:41:41,000 --> 00:41:44,760 of the tenacity, the tirelessness and the defiance 638 00:41:44,840 --> 00:41:48,760 of the people who used a castle to make a city. 55475

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