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For me, a great British castle
is a fortress, a palace, a home.
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And a symbol of power, majesty and fear.
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00:00:15,760 --> 00:00:17,120
For nearly a thousand years,
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00:00:17,200 --> 00:00:20,400
castles have shaped
Britain's famous landscape.
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These magnificent buildings have been home
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to some of the greatest heroes
and villains in our national history.
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And many of them
still stand proudly today,
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bursting with incredible stories
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of warfare, treachery,
intrigue, passion and murder.
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Join me, Dan Jones,
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00:00:46,600 --> 00:00:51,440
as I uncover the secrets
behind six great British castles.
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This time, I'm in Edinburgh,
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these days,
home to the famous yearly spectacle
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that is the military tattoo.
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But over its 1,000-year history,
it's earned the accolade
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of being the most besieged castle
in the land.
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Edinburgh Castle
is a truly iconic British landmark,
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with a truly deadly history.
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It's been the scene
of legendary betrayals,
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backstabbing and conspiracies,
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as well as some of the most
epic battles ever witnessed
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between England and Scotland's
kings and queens.
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Edinburgh Castle
is most the fought-over castle in Britain.
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It's been attacked 23 times,
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by everyone from warring Scottish clans
to English kings and even German airships.
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It has survived them all,
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and today it still stands,
dominant over the surrounding landscape,
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bristling with cannon,
unbroken and magnificent.
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One of the greatest fortresses ever built.
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And one that still packs a punch today.
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This is the One o'clock Gun.
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And a gun like this has been fired
from the walls of Edinburgh Castle
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every day except for Sundays,
Christmas Day and Good Fridays since 1861.
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Now, the boom it makes
echoes over the city of Edinburgh below
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and out to the Firth of Forth,
where it helped shipping keep time.
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-Phew.
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Now, that explosion is a daily reminder
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that Edinburgh Castle still has
a working military garrison.
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This is a living fortress,
and a very impressive one, too.
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Wherever you walk, for miles around,
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you see this mighty castle
looming over the countryside.
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The very granite it stands on
is a natural wonder.
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Edinburgh Castle
sits on top of Castle Rock,
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a vast outcrop of volcanic rock
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that first erupted from the earth
350 million years ago.
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Now, the volcano that produced it,
well, that's long extinct,
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but the rock remains
the focal point of the city.
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It's also the perfect defensive spot
to put a military settlement
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declaring to everyone for miles around,
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"We are here to dominate you."
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People have lived on Castle Rock
since the Bronze Age.
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That's nearly 3,000 years ago.
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And for at least half of that time,
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it's been the base
for warriors to get together
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before going off to battle.
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To eat, to fight
and of course, to get drunk.
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We know that there was a castle
full of warriors at Edinburgh
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from as far back as 1,400 years ago,
because it's mentioned
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in one of the earliest known poems
in British history, the Gododdin.
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The Gododdin celebrates the deeds
of one of these warriors and it says,
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"There was no one who more completely,
from the fortress of Eidyn,
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"scattered the enemy."
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The fortress of Eidyn,
well, that's Edinburgh Castle.
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And the poem also says
that these warriors spent a full year
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feasting and drinking mead
before they went out to fight.
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By the Middle Ages,
Scotland was becoming a unified kingdom.
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Edinburgh was its leading city,
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and the castle was controlled
by the Scottish kings and their families.
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And that's when the castle we see today
started taking shape.
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One tiny building
within the sprawling castle complex
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lets us peer inside
that long-forgotten world.
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It's this chapel,
dedicated to Scotland's only royal saint.
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This is St. Margaret's Chapel,
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and it was put up nearly 900 years ago,
in 1130, by King David I of Scotland
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in memory of his mother, Queen Margaret.
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Queen Margaret was an English princess
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who came to Scotland
to marry King David's father,
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the powerful, long-ruling Scottish king,
Malcolm III.
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Tragically, she died three days
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after learning
that her husband, King Malcolm,
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and her eldest son
had been killed in battle by the English.
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00:06:03,720 --> 00:06:09,440
Three of Margaret's surviving sons
went on to become kings of Scotland,
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each of them consolidating
Edinburgh's place
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as the seat of Scottish royal power.
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But hostilities with the kings of England
would continue for centuries.
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And none was deadlier
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than the war
with the English warrior king, Edward I,
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who would earn the nickname
the Hammer of the Scots.
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In March 1296, Edward's army
invaded Scotland and marched on Edinburgh.
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Now, people didn't call Edward I
the Hammer of the Scots for nothing.
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He was a warrior king
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with a vast collection of siege catapults
known as trebuchets.
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And arriving in Edinburgh,
he deployed the most fearsome of them all,
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Warwolf.
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Said to be the largest
trebuchet ever made,
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Warwolf needed 30 wagons to transport it
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and could hurl missiles
weighing around 300 pounds.
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After a three-day battering,
the Scottish defenders of Edinburgh Castle
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quite sensibly gave up
and the English moved in.
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They installed their own garrison,
and humiliatingly for the Scots,
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they stayed here for the next 18 years.
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It would take nearly two decades
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for the Scots to dislodge the English
from Edinburgh Castle.
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Edward I's invasion
marked the beginning of a conflict
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known as the
Wars of Scottish Independence,
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which would rage between the two sides
for over half a century.
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When they weren't fighting the English,
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competing claimants to the Scottish throne
plotted against each other.
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Give him fire!
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This grinding period of unrest
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meant Edinburgh Castle
would be the scene of a litany of murders,
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00:08:16,200 --> 00:08:19,560
massacres and jaw-dropping treachery,
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as conflicting sides
fought over this mighty fortress.
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In the Middle Ages,
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England's warmonger king, Edward I,
invaded Scotland.
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He used the latest military machinery
to smash Edinburgh Castle into submission
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and he took the castle for himself.
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The English then held it
for nearly 20 years.
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This fortress, built to house
and protect Scottish royalty,
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had become a humiliating sign
of English triumph.
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The Scots didn't have the firepower
to retake Edinburgh Castle by force.
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But what they did have was stealth,
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cunning and a little bit
of top-secret information.
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In 1314, a wily Scottish nobleman
called Thomas Randolph, Earl of Moray,
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hatched a simple
and astonishingly brazen plot
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to regain this monster of a castle.
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He was going to climb over the wall.
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You look at that cliff and it's pretty
daunting, but that's the point.
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The whole reason the castle is up there
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is because that is supposed
to be impossible to climb.
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But that's not what Moray thought.
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According to chronicles of the time,
he'd learned about a secret route
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up the rock face, over the wall
and into the castle at the top.
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Historian David Caldwell
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thinks he's got to the bottom
of this incredible story.
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They knew it was possible
because they met up with a guy
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who was the son of a previous governor
of the castle...
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-Okay.
-...William Francis.
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And he used to escape over the wall,
at that point, at night,
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to go and visit his woman in town.
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So, he knew it was possible with the use
of a ladder over the wall at the top.
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But how on earth
did Moray get up this rock face?
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With a great deal of difficulty, I think,
and by the look of it, but I don't know.
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I mean, you can just imagine that
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they could have got up
that sort of gully there.
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And you can see there's a sort of platform
and quite a substantial ledge.
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Yeah.
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Now, I think that's where 30 men
could have had a rest,
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as we know
from the accounts of the escapade.
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-Just a rope ladder to get over?
-Just a rope ladder, yeah.
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And there were just 30 of them
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and the garrison of the castle
was probably about 200.
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So, even just getting into the castle
was still a major risk
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that they could actually overpower
the garrison and take it.
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Unbelievably, Moray's plan worked.
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He and his men climbed the sheer rock,
jumped the walls,
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and slaughtered
the English soldiers inside.
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In the blink of an eye,
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Edinburgh Castle
was back in Scottish hands.
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And Moray was a hero.
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But there was plenty
more trouble still to come.
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Less than 100 years after Moray's climb,
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a new Scottish royal family
was on the throne.
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They were called the Stuarts.
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The Stuarts would become one of the most
famous dynasties in British history.
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But not always for the right reasons.
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And Edinburgh Castle
saw them at their very worst.
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For centuries,
this was a place of backstabbing,
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skullduggery and intrigue
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as kings of Scotland and their enemies
played a real-life Game of Thrones.
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00:12:15,720 --> 00:12:20,680
And no episode better showcases
this castle's deadly history
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than something that took place
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somewhere above our heads
during the 15th century.
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It's one of the most notorious events
in all of British history,
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The Black Dinner.
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In 1437, the Stuart king,
James I, was murdered.
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This left his young son,
James II, as king.
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James II came to the throne
when he was just six years old
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and on his mother's orders,
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he was kept in Edinburgh Castle
for his own safety.
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By the time he was 10,
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the real power lay in the hands of the
governor of the castle, William Crichton,
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and his treacherous ally,
Alexander Livingstone.
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These two would stop at nothing
to protect their hold over the young king.
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Their scheming and plotting came to a head
one fateful night in November 1440.
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Crichton and Livingstone's main rivals
for influence with James II
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were the infamous Douglas clan,
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a family who'd been powerful members
of the Scottish aristocracy for 300 years.
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Like the king, the heads
of the Douglas clan were very young.
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William, Earl of Douglas, was 16,
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his brother was even younger.
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Nevertheless, Crichton and Livingstone
still saw them as a dangerous threat
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and they hatched a dastardly plot
to silence them forever.
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In November 1440,
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the Douglas boys were invited
to Edinburgh Castle for dinner.
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It would be the last meal they ever ate.
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00:14:06,560 --> 00:14:08,840
While the young men
were enjoying their dinner,
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00:14:09,200 --> 00:14:12,840
a servant brought out a very unusual dish,
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00:14:16,040 --> 00:14:19,080
the severed head of a black bull.
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00:14:20,000 --> 00:14:21,160
It was a signal.
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00:14:21,240 --> 00:14:24,080
The Douglas boys
were dragged from their seats.
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00:14:26,320 --> 00:14:30,120
Outside, they were subjected to
a sham trial.
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00:14:37,640 --> 00:14:40,360
Then both of them were beheaded.
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00:14:41,920 --> 00:14:47,000
This grotesque double murder
is now known as the Black Dinner.
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00:14:51,640 --> 00:14:54,600
You might have thought
the horrific events of the Black Dinner
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would have put James II
off bloodshed forever,
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00:14:58,720 --> 00:15:02,560
but instead he grew up
to be a king who relished war.
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00:15:03,240 --> 00:15:06,120
He particularly loved one lethal weapon
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00:15:06,200 --> 00:15:09,800
that took Europe by storm
during his lifetime,
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the cannon.
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00:15:14,320 --> 00:15:17,960
Thanks to James,
Edinburgh Castle is full of cannons,
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00:15:18,520 --> 00:15:21,480
and one in particular really stands out.
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00:15:22,200 --> 00:15:24,480
This massive cannon is called Mons Meg,
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00:15:24,560 --> 00:15:28,280
and she came to Edinburgh Castle
in the middle of the 15th century
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00:15:28,360 --> 00:15:30,600
as a gift to the King James II
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00:15:30,680 --> 00:15:33,520
from his wife's uncle,
the Duke of Burgundy.
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00:15:33,640 --> 00:15:36,480
Now, Mons Meg
was actually a wedding present
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00:15:36,560 --> 00:15:40,640
and if she's not very romantic,
she certainly was deadly.
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This monster
could fire a stone nearly two miles,
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00:15:44,920 --> 00:15:46,920
and not any old cannonball.
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The balls that came out of here
would have weighed 150 kilograms,
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that's nearly twice my body weight,
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and had a diameter
of around 500 millimeters,
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00:15:56,960 --> 00:16:00,680
which isn't too far
from a modern Tomahawk missile.
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00:16:00,760 --> 00:16:03,120
So, this wasn't just any old cannon,
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00:16:03,560 --> 00:16:06,240
she was a medieval weapon
of mass destruction.
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00:16:08,160 --> 00:16:12,640
I met up with medieval firearms expert
Professor Ronald Hutton
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00:16:12,720 --> 00:16:14,720
to check out the sort of cannon
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00:16:14,800 --> 00:16:17,640
that James II
would have loved to play with.
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00:16:18,080 --> 00:16:21,160
It's owned and operated by Colin Herriett.
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00:16:22,640 --> 00:16:26,120
Colin, this looks like a pretty serious
piece of military hardware.
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00:16:26,200 --> 00:16:27,600
Hefty ol' piece of iron.
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00:16:27,680 --> 00:16:33,040
It's a copy of a 16th-century port piece,
same as was on the Mary Rose.
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00:16:33,160 --> 00:16:35,840
This is a shortened version
and she's a breech loader.
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00:16:35,920 --> 00:16:37,080
She's not a muzzle loader.
236
00:16:37,160 --> 00:16:38,920
Everything don't get
stoked in from that end,
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00:16:39,120 --> 00:16:40,760
it gets stoked in from this end.
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00:16:41,000 --> 00:16:42,760
And this is a gun stone.
239
00:16:42,920 --> 00:16:44,840
Wow, that's heavy!
How much do you think that weighs?
240
00:16:44,920 --> 00:16:47,520
About 20 pounds.
-And how do you aim her?
241
00:16:47,600 --> 00:16:49,960
-Well, we squint along the barrel.
-All right.
242
00:16:50,040 --> 00:16:51,800
And aiming is probably the wrong word,
243
00:16:51,880 --> 00:16:53,920
-but pointing is more like it.
244
00:16:54,160 --> 00:16:57,800
It's quite worrying when you're firing it
and that's what we're going to do now.
245
00:16:58,000 --> 00:16:59,440
So, we're going to fire
246
00:16:59,600 --> 00:17:01,320
-this piece of marble...
-Yeah.
247
00:17:01,480 --> 00:17:03,560
-... into that van?
-Hopefully.
248
00:17:04,040 --> 00:17:08,040
So, you chaps had better clear off
into a safety place, I think.
249
00:17:08,120 --> 00:17:10,400
With pleasure.
-Because hopefully it's going to go bang.
250
00:17:13,880 --> 00:17:18,440
What would a 14th- or 15th-century
cannon be made from?
251
00:17:19,120 --> 00:17:22,560
It's a disgusting tub of metal
252
00:17:22,640 --> 00:17:25,560
in which you put stone
or sometimes metal balls,
253
00:17:25,640 --> 00:17:27,800
and as often as not
in the early days, it blows up.
254
00:17:27,960 --> 00:17:30,040
So, this was something
very dangerous to fire?
255
00:17:30,120 --> 00:17:32,920
It's extremely dangerous
and they smell horrible,
256
00:17:33,000 --> 00:17:36,520
but everyone senses, rightly,
that they have a future, and they have.
257
00:17:41,120 --> 00:17:44,840
Until now, it would take
a couple of months to reduce a castle.
258
00:17:44,920 --> 00:17:47,320
Now you can take one out
in less than a week.
259
00:17:47,480 --> 00:17:48,480
That's extraordinary.
260
00:17:55,200 --> 00:17:58,000
Preparing to give fire. Giving fire!
261
00:18:08,240 --> 00:18:09,320
Whoa!
262
00:18:13,320 --> 00:18:14,600
Wow!
263
00:18:16,480 --> 00:18:17,480
Ah!
264
00:18:17,640 --> 00:18:21,320
My ears are ringing,
but I'm glad I wasn't in that van.
265
00:18:21,400 --> 00:18:24,560
-Ronald, can you see what it's done to it?
-Yes, I can see.
266
00:18:24,680 --> 00:18:26,640
Whoa! Wow!
267
00:18:26,720 --> 00:18:28,160
That... That was a loud one.
268
00:18:37,680 --> 00:18:40,160
I mean, it's ripped the metal
clean off the top.
269
00:18:40,240 --> 00:18:41,640
That is horrific.
270
00:18:41,720 --> 00:18:46,600
I mean, you need only a little imagination
to imagine what that does to personnel.
271
00:18:46,680 --> 00:18:48,280
It changes the world.
272
00:18:48,400 --> 00:18:51,760
Nothing is ever the same
once they learn how to use gunpowder.
273
00:18:51,840 --> 00:18:53,280
I think that's the point, isn't it?
274
00:18:53,360 --> 00:18:54,360
As soon as... You know,
275
00:18:54,440 --> 00:18:58,800
castles have been these great edifices
that would take you months to get through,
276
00:18:58,880 --> 00:19:01,520
but as soon as a weapon
like that comes along,
277
00:19:01,600 --> 00:19:02,840
the whole game is changed.
278
00:19:03,920 --> 00:19:07,240
Mons Meg would only get one outing
against the English
279
00:19:07,520 --> 00:19:11,280
and it wasn't at Edinburgh Castle,
but instead in Northumberland.
280
00:19:11,920 --> 00:19:14,080
Although she made a big bang,
281
00:19:14,160 --> 00:19:17,880
her great weight
made her impractical to carry around.
282
00:19:18,800 --> 00:19:22,760
But James II continued to line
the walls of his castles
283
00:19:22,840 --> 00:19:26,160
with the very latest in gun technology.
284
00:19:26,240 --> 00:19:29,080
And cannons were to be his undoing.
285
00:19:30,840 --> 00:19:34,480
James II's love of guns
quite literally backfired on him.
286
00:19:34,880 --> 00:19:38,080
In 1460, he was besieging Roxburgh Castle
287
00:19:38,160 --> 00:19:41,240
and trying to fire a new type
of cannon from Flanders
288
00:19:41,320 --> 00:19:45,800
called the Lion, but it exploded
and it blew the king to pieces.
289
00:19:46,600 --> 00:19:49,080
He was just 29 years old.
290
00:19:49,160 --> 00:19:53,040
But his successors were just as keen
on collecting artillery as James was,
291
00:19:53,400 --> 00:19:56,000
and under the Stuart kings,
Edinburgh Castle
292
00:19:56,080 --> 00:19:59,440
became one of the most
heavily armed fortresses in Britain.
293
00:20:01,520 --> 00:20:03,480
Which was just as well,
294
00:20:05,440 --> 00:20:08,520
because Edinburgh Castle
had plenty of enemies
295
00:20:08,600 --> 00:20:12,800
who would stop at nothing
to try and breach its mighty walls.
296
00:20:15,880 --> 00:20:18,480
And one of the bloodiest assaults of all
297
00:20:18,560 --> 00:20:23,040
came from Britain's
most infamous king, Henry VIII.
298
00:20:30,120 --> 00:20:32,440
Edinburgh Castle has been besieged
299
00:20:32,520 --> 00:20:36,080
more times
than any other fortress in Britain.
300
00:20:36,160 --> 00:20:41,000
But no attackers ever caused
as much trouble for this grand old lady
301
00:20:41,080 --> 00:20:45,960
as Britain's most notorious
royal dynasty, the Tudors.
302
00:20:52,840 --> 00:20:57,440
The Tudors' poisonous relationship
with the Stuart kings of Scotland
303
00:20:57,520 --> 00:21:01,440
led to wars, invasions,
attempted kidnappings,
304
00:21:01,720 --> 00:21:04,440
and even a plot to kill a queen.
305
00:21:07,240 --> 00:21:09,840
But it all started with a marriage,
306
00:21:09,920 --> 00:21:15,280
which, amazingly, is still commemorated
on the walls of the royal palace,
307
00:21:15,360 --> 00:21:21,040
this incredible and lavish suite of rooms
built in the heart of Edinburgh Castle.
308
00:21:22,080 --> 00:21:24,680
These are the royal apartments
and there's an image here
309
00:21:24,760 --> 00:21:27,360
that crops up all over the castle.
310
00:21:27,440 --> 00:21:30,960
It's the image of a rose
and a thistle entwined,
311
00:21:31,040 --> 00:21:34,000
and that's more than just
a pretty piece of decoration.
312
00:21:34,080 --> 00:21:36,080
The rose is a symbol of the Tudors,
313
00:21:36,160 --> 00:21:40,040
that great English dynasty
of Henry VIII and Elizabeth I.
314
00:21:40,320 --> 00:21:43,920
And the thistle represents
the Stuart kings of Scotland.
315
00:21:44,000 --> 00:21:48,840
And the fact that they are entwined
is a reference to the marriage in 1503
316
00:21:48,920 --> 00:21:52,520
of James IV of Scotland
and Henry VIII's sister, Margaret.
317
00:21:52,600 --> 00:21:56,320
Now, that marriage was supposed
to bring about peace
318
00:21:56,400 --> 00:21:58,280
between the two families,
319
00:21:58,360 --> 00:22:01,360
but as with many families,
there were as many fights
320
00:22:01,440 --> 00:22:03,520
as there were hugs and smiles.
321
00:22:03,800 --> 00:22:07,000
In fact, when the Tudors
and the Stuarts clashed,
322
00:22:07,080 --> 00:22:09,840
the whole of Britain had to take cover.
323
00:22:09,920 --> 00:22:14,960
And once of the bloodiest fallings out
happened right here at Edinburgh Castle.
324
00:22:17,880 --> 00:22:22,920
Henry VIII and James IV of Scotland
may have been brothers-in-law,
325
00:22:23,000 --> 00:22:25,360
but they were also deadly rivals.
326
00:22:25,960 --> 00:22:28,760
So, just 10 years
after the Tudors and Stuarts
327
00:22:28,840 --> 00:22:31,040
had joined their families in marriage,
328
00:22:31,120 --> 00:22:33,000
their armies were at war.
329
00:22:35,600 --> 00:22:40,000
King James IV was killed in 1513
at the Battle of Flodden.
330
00:22:40,760 --> 00:22:45,200
His death was Henry VIII's
most significant military achievement.
331
00:22:46,320 --> 00:22:51,360
In 1542, James' son, James V, also died,
332
00:22:51,440 --> 00:22:53,920
following another military humiliation,
333
00:22:54,000 --> 00:22:56,280
this time at the Battle of Solway Moss.
334
00:23:00,720 --> 00:23:06,880
That left James V's 6-day-old daughter
as the new monarch.
335
00:23:06,960 --> 00:23:10,480
She would come to be known
as Mary Queen of Scots.
336
00:23:10,560 --> 00:23:16,120
And her reign plunged Scotland
and Edinburgh Castle into crisis.
337
00:23:18,000 --> 00:23:20,280
That crisis began straightaway
338
00:23:20,360 --> 00:23:25,840
as Henry VIII ordered the Scots to marry
little Mary to his own son, Edward,
339
00:23:27,280 --> 00:23:31,080
so that England and Scotland
would one day be united.
340
00:23:34,240 --> 00:23:36,000
The Scots were having none of it.
341
00:23:37,560 --> 00:23:42,560
They refused to be bossed around
by the arrogant Tudor king of England.
342
00:23:42,920 --> 00:23:44,680
Henry was furious.
343
00:23:44,760 --> 00:23:47,600
He decided to teach the Scots a lesson.
344
00:23:49,560 --> 00:23:51,240
In 1544,
345
00:23:51,320 --> 00:23:56,800
he sent an army to Edinburgh
to settle things the way he knew best,
346
00:23:56,880 --> 00:23:58,360
with the sword.
347
00:23:58,760 --> 00:24:00,200
This is the Firth of Forth,
348
00:24:00,280 --> 00:24:04,200
where the North Sea meets land
just outside the city of Edinburgh.
349
00:24:04,280 --> 00:24:09,080
And in May 1544,
all this water was teeming with ships
350
00:24:09,160 --> 00:24:13,120
packed with English soldiers
on a very simple mission.
351
00:24:13,200 --> 00:24:16,560
They had instructions from Henry VIII.
And he said,
352
00:24:16,840 --> 00:24:20,800
"Put all to fire and sword,
burn Edinburgh,
353
00:24:20,880 --> 00:24:24,160
"as there may remain forever
a perpetual memory
354
00:24:24,240 --> 00:24:27,640
"of the vengeance of God
lightened upon them
355
00:24:27,720 --> 00:24:30,320
"for their falsehood and disloyalty."
356
00:24:30,880 --> 00:24:34,360
Henry VIII wanted control
of Mary Queen of Scots,
357
00:24:34,440 --> 00:24:35,840
and if he couldn't have her,
358
00:24:35,920 --> 00:24:39,920
then Edinburgh and her castle
would be the first to suffer.
359
00:24:45,440 --> 00:24:49,640
They called this period,
with typical Scots gallows humor,
360
00:24:49,720 --> 00:24:51,760
the Rough Wooing.
361
00:24:51,840 --> 00:24:56,560
For eight years, Scotland was battered
by English military force.
362
00:24:56,640 --> 00:24:58,680
But they refused to be beaten.
363
00:25:00,720 --> 00:25:03,720
The accounts of the invasion
are pretty chilling.
364
00:25:04,000 --> 00:25:09,000
Twelve thousand men piled off
the English ships in just four hours.
365
00:25:09,120 --> 00:25:12,720
There are records of the English
commandeering local fishing boats
366
00:25:12,800 --> 00:25:15,240
just to speed up the landing process.
367
00:25:15,320 --> 00:25:16,960
And once the men hit the shore,
368
00:25:17,040 --> 00:25:20,440
they started burning buildings
between the Firth of Forth
369
00:25:20,520 --> 00:25:22,440
and the city of Edinburgh.
370
00:25:22,520 --> 00:25:24,640
The noise, the violence,
371
00:25:24,720 --> 00:25:29,920
the sheer size of the invasion
must have been absolutely terrifying.
372
00:25:32,120 --> 00:25:37,400
On the 3rd of May, 1544,
the English stormed the city,
373
00:25:37,480 --> 00:25:42,360
blowing open the medieval gates
and killing hundreds of defenders.
374
00:25:43,080 --> 00:25:44,880
Those who survived the assault
375
00:25:44,960 --> 00:25:48,320
retreated behind the safety
of the castle walls.
376
00:25:52,560 --> 00:25:54,600
The English set fire to the town,
377
00:25:55,280 --> 00:25:57,800
withdrawing to their base
at Leith for the night
378
00:25:57,880 --> 00:25:59,760
to watch Edinburgh burn.
379
00:26:03,520 --> 00:26:07,760
Over the next three days,
the burning and looting continued
380
00:26:08,000 --> 00:26:12,520
not just in Edinburgh,
but also in the surrounding towns.
381
00:26:13,000 --> 00:26:15,240
Reports of the time say that,
382
00:26:15,320 --> 00:26:18,240
"Neither within the walls
nor in the suburbs
383
00:26:18,320 --> 00:26:21,840
"was left any one house unburnt."
384
00:26:27,360 --> 00:26:30,360
-So, you had boats coming from the Forth.
-Yeah.
385
00:26:30,440 --> 00:26:33,760
And you had troops coming
across the border from England.
386
00:26:33,840 --> 00:26:35,880
-Yeah.
-This is an incredible time in the city.
387
00:26:36,080 --> 00:26:40,160
What the English had been ordered
by King Henry VIII to do
388
00:26:40,240 --> 00:26:43,080
was to burn Edinburgh, take the castle,
389
00:26:43,160 --> 00:26:45,560
do a lot of destruction,
get lots of loots,
390
00:26:45,640 --> 00:26:49,440
in order to encourage them
to have Mary Queen of Scots marry his son.
391
00:26:49,720 --> 00:26:51,440
How much damage did they do to Edinburgh?
392
00:26:51,520 --> 00:26:53,440
Some of the main gun positions
393
00:26:53,520 --> 00:26:56,240
fired right down
the High Street of Edinburgh,
394
00:26:56,320 --> 00:26:57,840
and at various times,
395
00:26:57,920 --> 00:27:01,880
that's exactly what
the holders of the castle did,
396
00:27:01,960 --> 00:27:05,200
and what they evidently did in 1544.
397
00:27:05,280 --> 00:27:08,080
They fired the guns right down
the High Street to hit the English.
398
00:27:08,160 --> 00:27:09,440
So, actually,
you could come into Edinburgh
399
00:27:09,520 --> 00:27:12,480
and do as much damage
in the surrounding area as you want,
400
00:27:12,560 --> 00:27:15,000
but taking the castle
was a totally different matter.
401
00:27:15,080 --> 00:27:18,200
And they failed in their
one key objective,
402
00:27:18,280 --> 00:27:20,360
which was to capture Mary Queen of Scots.
403
00:27:20,440 --> 00:27:21,640
Exactly.
404
00:27:32,400 --> 00:27:36,600
Mary Queen of Scots was barely a year old
at the time of the Rough Wooing.
405
00:27:36,680 --> 00:27:40,560
The nobles governing Scotland in her name
sent her to France,
406
00:27:40,640 --> 00:27:43,160
where she was betrothed
to the heir to the French throne.
407
00:27:44,160 --> 00:27:46,840
In 1558, when she was 15,
408
00:27:46,920 --> 00:27:50,360
she and her husband were crowned
king and queen of France.
409
00:27:51,960 --> 00:27:56,080
But two years later,
her husband died of a mysterious illness.
410
00:27:57,480 --> 00:27:59,760
Now a widow in a foreign land,
411
00:27:59,840 --> 00:28:04,080
and with her mother-in-law, the feared
and powerful Catherine de Medici,
412
00:28:04,160 --> 00:28:07,120
making it clear she was no longer welcome,
413
00:28:07,200 --> 00:28:10,720
Mary decided
her future lay back in Scotland.
414
00:28:12,080 --> 00:28:16,160
Despite her years in France,
she was still queen of Scotland,
415
00:28:16,240 --> 00:28:18,160
and eager to reclaim her throne
416
00:28:18,280 --> 00:28:21,000
from the nobles
who'd ruled in her absence.
417
00:28:22,240 --> 00:28:26,360
But when she arrived in Edinburgh,
she received a mixed reception.
418
00:28:27,160 --> 00:28:31,880
This flame-haired, intelligent woman
had French clothes and manners
419
00:28:31,960 --> 00:28:34,000
and was also a Catholic.
420
00:28:34,080 --> 00:28:39,080
Much of Scotland was now Protestant,
and in 1560, while she was away,
421
00:28:39,160 --> 00:28:43,560
the Scottish Parliament had adopted
Protestantism as the state religion.
422
00:28:44,160 --> 00:28:46,960
Many Scots were now suspicious of Mary.
423
00:28:48,800 --> 00:28:50,240
How was Mary received?
424
00:28:50,440 --> 00:28:53,720
Joy, that at last a queen,
an absent queen,
425
00:28:53,800 --> 00:28:57,360
had returned to Scotland
and that she was no longer a minor,
426
00:28:57,440 --> 00:28:58,600
and would be ruling,
427
00:28:58,680 --> 00:29:01,600
but at the same time,
a recognition that her religion
428
00:29:01,680 --> 00:29:03,920
was going to be unpopular
in some quarters.
429
00:29:05,240 --> 00:29:09,760
In 1565,
five years after her return from France,
430
00:29:09,840 --> 00:29:14,040
the headstrong young Queen of Scots
married for a second time.
431
00:29:14,680 --> 00:29:16,640
She chose a Scottish nobleman
432
00:29:16,720 --> 00:29:21,160
who was also her cousin,
Henry Stuart, Lord Darnley.
433
00:29:22,480 --> 00:29:23,640
Why did she marry him?
434
00:29:23,720 --> 00:29:24,960
She was attracted to him,
435
00:29:25,040 --> 00:29:27,680
and politically there were reasons
why she thought
436
00:29:27,840 --> 00:29:29,520
it would be advantageous to her.
437
00:29:29,600 --> 00:29:34,520
It would help her claim to be
Elizabeth I of England's successor.
438
00:29:34,920 --> 00:29:39,200
Henry Darnley was born in England,
so there was a political advantage.
439
00:29:40,280 --> 00:29:43,160
But Darnley was bad news.
440
00:29:43,240 --> 00:29:46,480
Described as spoilt, vain and vindictive,
441
00:29:46,560 --> 00:29:50,200
he had no interest
in helping Mary run the country.
442
00:29:50,320 --> 00:29:54,840
Instead, he spent his time drinking
and chasing women.
443
00:29:54,920 --> 00:29:59,560
His disrespectful behavior
quickly made him unpopular with the Scots
444
00:29:59,640 --> 00:30:02,080
and dragged down Mary's reputation, too.
445
00:30:04,720 --> 00:30:11,040
Despite their troubled marriage, by 1566,
Mary was pregnant with her first child.
446
00:30:11,880 --> 00:30:15,400
But there were rumors
the child was not Darnley's.
447
00:30:16,400 --> 00:30:19,520
What Darnley did next
doomed their marriage.
448
00:30:20,760 --> 00:30:24,080
It resulted in Darnley
conspiring against her,
449
00:30:24,160 --> 00:30:29,880
and conspiring, ultimately,
to possibly seize the queen,
450
00:30:29,960 --> 00:30:33,760
but certainly murder one of her favorites,
whose name was David Riccio.
451
00:30:34,560 --> 00:30:38,440
Because she was, I think,
fairly fearful for her life
452
00:30:38,520 --> 00:30:41,360
and possibly concerned
that if she died in childbirth,
453
00:30:41,560 --> 00:30:44,800
her son would become
a prisoner of Darnley,
454
00:30:45,000 --> 00:30:46,640
and Darnley would seize the throne,
455
00:30:46,720 --> 00:30:48,520
that she decided to give birth
456
00:30:48,600 --> 00:30:51,960
in this very well-fortified
castle of Edinburgh.
457
00:30:52,480 --> 00:30:54,640
In this period, women,
458
00:30:55,240 --> 00:30:59,520
about 20% between the ages of 20 and 35,
459
00:30:59,760 --> 00:31:01,600
died from childbirth.
460
00:31:08,760 --> 00:31:11,760
And so, Mary wrote out her will.
In fact, she wrote out three wills.
461
00:31:14,280 --> 00:31:20,320
Which would make provision if she died
and her son survived
462
00:31:20,400 --> 00:31:22,480
or if both died in childbirth.
463
00:31:22,560 --> 00:31:25,600
So, she was very,
very well aware of the risks.
464
00:31:30,400 --> 00:31:34,560
Mary gave birth to a son,
whom she named James,
465
00:31:35,040 --> 00:31:36,840
and she survived the birth.
466
00:31:36,920 --> 00:31:40,200
But the turmoil
that marked her ill-fated reign
467
00:31:40,280 --> 00:31:42,400
was about to get worse.
468
00:31:43,440 --> 00:31:46,320
Within months of the birth
of Mary's child,
469
00:31:46,400 --> 00:31:49,280
Darnley himself would be murdered.
470
00:31:49,360 --> 00:31:53,080
His naked body was found
not far from Edinburgh Castle,
471
00:31:53,160 --> 00:31:58,520
strangled in the garden of a house
that had been blown up with gunpowder.
472
00:31:59,040 --> 00:32:02,640
Mary was suspected
of having a hand in his death.
473
00:32:02,720 --> 00:32:08,240
She became increasingly unpopular
and the country descended into civil war.
474
00:32:10,280 --> 00:32:12,840
A group of rebellious Scottish lords
475
00:32:12,920 --> 00:32:17,520
forced her to abdicate
in favor of her 1-year-old son, James,
476
00:32:17,600 --> 00:32:20,800
and she fled to England in 1568,
477
00:32:20,880 --> 00:32:25,560
hoping for support from
her English cousin, Queen Elizabeth I.
478
00:32:26,280 --> 00:32:28,400
But she was out of luck.
479
00:32:28,480 --> 00:32:34,160
A suspicious Elizabeth had her arrested
and the crisis in Edinburgh escalated.
480
00:32:35,760 --> 00:32:39,440
The Scottish lords
were now deeply divided.
481
00:32:39,520 --> 00:32:43,040
One side supported
Mary's Catholic claim to the throne,
482
00:32:43,120 --> 00:32:46,600
while the rebels backed
her young son, James VI,
483
00:32:46,680 --> 00:32:49,280
who'd been placed on the throne
in her absence
484
00:32:49,360 --> 00:32:53,360
and had spent his childhood
up the road in Stirling Castle.
485
00:32:54,160 --> 00:32:59,320
The standoff between the two sides
would take two long years to resolve,
486
00:32:59,400 --> 00:33:02,320
and it would nearly destroy
Edinburgh Castle,
487
00:33:02,400 --> 00:33:06,040
whose defenders were still loyal
to the queen's cause.
488
00:33:06,520 --> 00:33:10,720
In May 1571, Elizabeth's English troops
marched on Edinburgh
489
00:33:10,800 --> 00:33:14,280
and joined forces
with the supporters of James VI.
490
00:33:14,360 --> 00:33:16,200
Using the latest guns and mortars,
491
00:33:16,280 --> 00:33:19,240
they literally blasted the castle
into submission.
492
00:33:20,640 --> 00:33:23,920
After a month-long bombardment,
the walls were breached.
493
00:33:24,560 --> 00:33:27,760
David's Tower,
the centerpiece of the medieval castle,
494
00:33:27,840 --> 00:33:30,880
and the tallest tower, was demolished.
495
00:33:30,960 --> 00:33:35,600
Mary's demoralized Catholic supporters
within the castle surrendered.
496
00:33:36,520 --> 00:33:40,240
James VI was now secure
as king of Scotland.
497
00:33:40,320 --> 00:33:45,160
But his mother, Mary Queen of Scots,
remained an English prisoner.
498
00:33:45,240 --> 00:33:49,960
She would be shunted around
various English castles for 19 years
499
00:33:50,040 --> 00:33:55,760
before finally being beheaded
for plotting against Elizabeth, in 1587.
500
00:33:57,920 --> 00:34:00,800
Yet, the Scots had the last laugh.
501
00:34:00,880 --> 00:34:04,040
When Elizabeth I
died without any children,
502
00:34:04,120 --> 00:34:06,680
her Scottish cousin, James VI,
503
00:34:06,760 --> 00:34:12,520
was named her heir
and crowned James I of England in 1603.
504
00:34:13,280 --> 00:34:18,240
The thistle and the rose
were finally reunited.
505
00:34:18,320 --> 00:34:23,400
But for Edinburgh Castle,
there was plenty more drama still to come.
506
00:34:31,760 --> 00:34:33,240
For hundreds of years,
507
00:34:33,320 --> 00:34:37,360
Edinburgh Castle was besieged,
battered and bombarded
508
00:34:37,440 --> 00:34:41,760
as war raged between Scotland and England.
509
00:34:41,840 --> 00:34:43,520
The conflict left its mark
510
00:34:43,600 --> 00:34:47,720
on the very stone
of this incredible fortress.
511
00:34:47,800 --> 00:34:51,760
And nowhere more than here
at the Half Moon Battery,
512
00:34:51,840 --> 00:34:55,160
built after the Tudor
Queen Elizabeth I's army
513
00:34:55,240 --> 00:34:59,600
knocked down the old medieval building
called David's Tower.
514
00:35:01,480 --> 00:35:06,080
After David's Tower was demolished
during Elizabeth's siege of 1571,
515
00:35:06,160 --> 00:35:07,680
the rebuilding program
516
00:35:07,760 --> 00:35:10,160
included one of the most
distinctive features
517
00:35:10,240 --> 00:35:11,520
of Edinburgh Castle today.
518
00:35:12,920 --> 00:35:18,000
The Half Moon Battery wraps right around
the southern face of the castle
519
00:35:18,080 --> 00:35:21,280
and is designed to give the men
firing these cannon
520
00:35:21,520 --> 00:35:25,240
the maximum range of fire
over the area below.
521
00:35:26,840 --> 00:35:31,360
It's not the prettiest area of the castle,
but I think it's utterly magnificent.
522
00:35:31,640 --> 00:35:33,080
You can't look at all this
523
00:35:33,160 --> 00:35:36,160
without understanding why
they call Edinburgh Castle
524
00:35:36,240 --> 00:35:38,880
the most besieged castle in Britain.
525
00:35:39,480 --> 00:35:42,480
It looks as though it's still ready to go.
526
00:35:44,760 --> 00:35:48,280
Despite the fortified majesty
of Edinburgh Castle,
527
00:35:48,360 --> 00:35:53,280
its days as a royal home
ended more than 400 years ago.
528
00:35:54,600 --> 00:35:58,240
For all its formidable defenses
and palatial apartments,
529
00:36:00,240 --> 00:36:02,280
by the start of the 17th century,
530
00:36:02,360 --> 00:36:07,440
Edinburgh Castle had long ceased to be
a place for kings and queens to live.
531
00:36:10,920 --> 00:36:15,520
Instead, royalty preferred to stay
in the sumptuously decorated rooms
532
00:36:15,600 --> 00:36:17,640
of Holyrood Palace,
533
00:36:17,720 --> 00:36:19,680
at the other end of the Royal Mile.
534
00:36:22,920 --> 00:36:26,840
Occasionally, visiting kings
would hold court in Edinburgh Castle,
535
00:36:27,600 --> 00:36:30,680
but for the most part,
that grand old fortress
536
00:36:30,760 --> 00:36:32,760
was now a military barracks.
537
00:36:34,760 --> 00:36:37,120
During the middle of the 17th century,
538
00:36:37,200 --> 00:36:41,960
Charles II turned Edinburgh Castle
into a military headquarters
539
00:36:42,040 --> 00:36:45,160
fit to house a large standing army.
540
00:36:48,440 --> 00:36:50,160
In the 18th century,
541
00:36:50,240 --> 00:36:54,160
new buildings and barracks
were added to the castle complex
542
00:36:54,240 --> 00:36:56,880
to prepare against the threat
of foreign enemies
543
00:36:57,120 --> 00:37:01,160
like the infamous French dictator
Napoleon Bonaparte.
544
00:37:04,720 --> 00:37:09,760
But as well as a barracks,
Edinburgh Castle also became a jail.
545
00:37:09,840 --> 00:37:14,000
The castle vaults,
rooms dug into the giant rock,
546
00:37:14,080 --> 00:37:16,320
were made into detention blocks.
547
00:37:19,920 --> 00:37:23,240
Chris, this room was once a prison vault.
548
00:37:23,960 --> 00:37:25,560
How many prisoners
would have been in here?
549
00:37:25,760 --> 00:37:29,760
There would be over 1,000 people
in these vaults in Edinburgh Castle.
550
00:37:29,960 --> 00:37:33,560
Most of them were French,
because in the 18th century,
551
00:37:33,640 --> 00:37:38,280
um, Britain spent
most of its time fighting the French.
552
00:37:38,360 --> 00:37:41,440
But other countries
were sucked into the conflicts,
553
00:37:41,640 --> 00:37:47,720
Spanish, Italian, Dutch, American
and even some British prisoners of war.
554
00:37:47,880 --> 00:37:49,880
So, these are the prison rations,
are they?
555
00:37:50,080 --> 00:37:52,200
Well, these are the prison rations
for Americans.
556
00:37:52,480 --> 00:37:53,760
They got half rations
557
00:37:53,840 --> 00:37:56,120
because Americans
weren't really a nation then,
558
00:37:56,200 --> 00:37:58,000
they were still considered British.
559
00:37:58,080 --> 00:37:59,200
So, they were traitors.
560
00:37:59,280 --> 00:38:01,440
I mean, it doesn't look too bad.
I mean, what do you get?
561
00:38:01,520 --> 00:38:03,480
A quart and a half of beer every day,
562
00:38:03,560 --> 00:38:04,760
a pound of bread every day,
563
00:38:04,840 --> 00:38:07,120
three-quarters a pound of beef every day,
564
00:38:07,280 --> 00:38:10,200
well, apart from Fridays,
when you have cheese, do you?
565
00:38:10,280 --> 00:38:12,640
Yes, they would have their fish
or their cheese they got on Friday.
566
00:38:12,720 --> 00:38:14,120
And this was the basic diet,
567
00:38:14,200 --> 00:38:16,440
but could you supplement this
if you were a prisoner?
568
00:38:16,520 --> 00:38:19,400
Oh, yes. They were able
to make things and sell them
569
00:38:19,480 --> 00:38:22,720
to people from the town of Edinburgh
who come up to the castle.
570
00:38:22,800 --> 00:38:25,400
They could buy their fags,
then their tobacco, for their pipe.
571
00:38:25,480 --> 00:38:29,440
The more you tell me about prison
in Edinburgh Castle in the 18th century,
572
00:38:29,520 --> 00:38:31,160
the more it doesn't sound
like too bad a deal.
573
00:38:31,240 --> 00:38:33,640
You got your beer, you got your fags,
you got a bit of writing paper.
574
00:38:33,720 --> 00:38:35,000
I don't think
I'd need anything more in life.
575
00:38:35,120 --> 00:38:36,640
-Unless you're an American.
-Unless you're an American.
576
00:38:36,720 --> 00:38:37,800
And you were denied all that!
577
00:38:39,800 --> 00:38:41,840
When the 20th century dawned,
578
00:38:41,920 --> 00:38:46,040
most castles had long been left behind
as tools of war.
579
00:38:47,160 --> 00:38:50,960
But when the First World War
broke out in 1914,
580
00:38:51,040 --> 00:38:55,760
Edinburgh Castle still managed
to find itself in the firing line.
581
00:38:56,480 --> 00:38:59,320
This time, the threat came from above.
582
00:39:01,760 --> 00:39:06,120
During this war, Britain was bombed
from the air for the first time,
583
00:39:06,200 --> 00:39:08,080
and in the sky above Edinburgh,
584
00:39:08,160 --> 00:39:13,200
there appeared monstrous new air balloons
laden with explosives.
585
00:39:13,280 --> 00:39:15,000
They were called zeppelins.
586
00:39:16,720 --> 00:39:20,920
The zeppelin was named after its inventor,
Count Ferdinand Von Zeppelin.
587
00:39:22,720 --> 00:39:24,920
Before the war,
they were used for passenger flights,
588
00:39:25,920 --> 00:39:30,720
but from 1915, the Germans adapted them
for bombing raids to Britain,
589
00:39:30,800 --> 00:39:34,360
and from 1916,
they were targeting Edinburgh.
590
00:39:34,440 --> 00:39:37,360
And you can imagine
how terrifying that must have been.
591
00:39:37,440 --> 00:39:42,520
For the first time, civilians were facing
the threat of bombing raids from above.
592
00:39:42,640 --> 00:39:46,480
The war could literally
break into their homes at any moment.
593
00:39:48,080 --> 00:39:52,120
On the evening of Sunday,
the 2nd April, 1916,
594
00:39:52,200 --> 00:39:55,480
two German zeppelins
reached the Firth of Forth
595
00:39:55,560 --> 00:39:59,440
and carried out
the first-ever air raid on Scotland.
596
00:40:02,120 --> 00:40:06,040
Reports of bombs exploding
came shortly before midnight.
597
00:40:10,640 --> 00:40:14,520
In less than an hour,
24 bombs landed on the city of Edinburgh.
598
00:40:15,000 --> 00:40:18,000
Thirteen people were killed,
24 were injured,
599
00:40:18,080 --> 00:40:20,680
and buildings across the city
were destroyed.
600
00:40:20,880 --> 00:40:23,760
The bombs rained around the castle.
601
00:40:23,840 --> 00:40:26,680
One bounced from the road
up to the main gate,
602
00:40:26,760 --> 00:40:31,640
another landed here in the Grassmarket,
shattering windows and damaging homes.
603
00:40:32,040 --> 00:40:34,440
But that was as close as they got.
604
00:40:34,520 --> 00:40:39,600
That old castle was built to withstand
a battering from medieval trebuchets,
605
00:40:39,680 --> 00:40:44,520
but it stood up pretty well
to 20th-century aerial bombardment, too.
606
00:40:50,040 --> 00:40:53,960
Thankfully, Edinburgh Castle's
active military duty
607
00:40:54,040 --> 00:40:56,080
is now a part of history.
608
00:40:56,360 --> 00:40:58,400
But it's celebrated every summer
609
00:40:58,840 --> 00:41:03,600
in one of the world's most popular
military pageants, the Edinburgh Tattoo.
610
00:41:07,760 --> 00:41:09,560
The Edinburgh Military Tattoo.
611
00:41:09,640 --> 00:41:12,680
A sight to stir the Scottish heart
and a feast of sound to go with it.
612
00:41:13,600 --> 00:41:16,360
The tattoo's roots
are in the 16th century,
613
00:41:16,440 --> 00:41:19,280
when drummers would be sent out
from the garrison
614
00:41:19,360 --> 00:41:23,640
at the last post each night
to inform the local innkeepers
615
00:41:23,720 --> 00:41:29,160
that it was time to turn off the beer taps
and send the soldiers back to barracks.
616
00:41:33,880 --> 00:41:39,840
Today, over one and a half million
tourists a year flock to Edinburgh Castle.
617
00:41:42,920 --> 00:41:44,480
And while they're in the castle,
618
00:41:44,560 --> 00:41:47,320
they can also
look at the Scottish crown jewels
619
00:41:47,400 --> 00:41:48,800
and the Stone of Scone,
620
00:41:48,880 --> 00:41:52,880
an ancient rock on which
the monarchs of England and Scotland
621
00:41:52,960 --> 00:41:55,520
still sit for their coronations.
622
00:41:56,280 --> 00:41:59,840
They call Edinburgh Castle
the most besieged place in Britain,
623
00:41:59,920 --> 00:42:01,200
and it's hard to disagree
624
00:42:01,280 --> 00:42:03,920
when you think of the number of times
it's been assaulted
625
00:42:05,960 --> 00:42:09,200
by everyone from medieval soldiers
with rope ladders
626
00:42:09,280 --> 00:42:11,520
to German airships dropping bombs.
627
00:42:13,600 --> 00:42:15,640
But I think its greatest claim to fame
628
00:42:15,800 --> 00:42:18,360
isn't the number of times
it's been attacked,
629
00:42:18,440 --> 00:42:20,920
but the fact that it's always survived.
630
00:42:24,840 --> 00:42:29,080
And it's still here today
looming from its rocky perch,
631
00:42:29,200 --> 00:42:31,400
towering over the city around it.
632
00:42:31,480 --> 00:42:35,480
Booming its gun from the walls every day
633
00:42:35,560 --> 00:43:44,427
to remind the world that it is,
as it always has been, unbreakable.
55726
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