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The local porter

They will carry above 100 kilos

But who work

Who is working with the tourist

Is not allowed

To carry above 25 kilos

Normally the normal porter will get

The salary in the trekking

It's 1500 to 2000

Okay, so let's say, 1500

That's $15

dollars a day

$15 dollars a day, ya

When you reach Lukla

You just arrange that day also, right?

But most of the Porter

They don't go from the Kathmandu

No, no, they don't

they do multiple trips in a row

Ya

They have a Lukla base

They do Lukla to Lukla

Each trek

The tips and the allowance are very compulsory

Tourists giving them at the end

So they get tips too

Absoutely. Not tips is here. Tips is extra

Sometimes they getting the tips like more than

$200, $300, $400 dollars also

From our company tips is compulsory

That is the just salary

O.k. That's, that's pretty good

That's good news

And then

No showers the whole 12 days

There is no shower

In the porter house, no

Just one shirt, one fleece, and one jacket

Just one up top

I'll be so smelly

Porter don't drink Coca Cola

What you do then?

Why not?

Yea they do

They do but

Americans we need Coke

They take

500 rupees per one Coca Cola

Wow, that's expensive

-I ain't dirnking coke -That's why porter, they don't

Porter drink water

I'm gunna only drink water

This is my last coke

You want to drink normal water

Or water with the purification tablets?

-What you like? -I don't know

What do porters drink?

Porter they can

They can drink it straight from the tap

Ya, I'm gunna do that

-You do that? -Ya

Fuck it

-Screw it -You know that the

Most of the Nepalese

We will drink directly

From tap

We'll go from the tap

-If I get sick, then -What will you do?

Then, I'll

Keep going

We'll be alright

-Yes? -Just vegetables

It's the first meal here

I'm already struggling

I'm struggling

It's not even spicy and I'm crying

I don't even really know how to eat it

You have to

Squish it together

And you eat with your right hand because

You wipe your butt with your left

So you don't eat with your left hand

You shake hands

With your right hand

Not your left

It's an insult

It's going to be a long month

A very long month

Alright

Welcome

Is there a shortcut?

There's a shortcut here

There's another shortcut?

Ya, there's a shortcut

Where?

From over there

-From over here? -Ya

I will show you

Let's go together

Can I sit here?

Yes, yes

Cooking tea?

Yes, boiling it

Is this new milk?

-New, new -It's new milk?

I milked it this morning

It's from this morning?

-Ya, from that cow -Which one?

That one

-But there's three -Ya, there's three

But the others are in my house

Sit

Come sit, come sit

Thank you brother

(Dialect)

Here, sit

Friends are here

Is that your house there?

-Yes -Is it a Hotel?

Sorry?

Is it a hotel?

No, it's not a hotel

But you said that you have a hotel

Now we're making it

Now, you're making it?

Nice

Where?

The first one was destroyed

In the earthquake

And now we're building a new one

But we don't have toilets yet

So you have to go far

But this path

Compared to the other path

This path is better

This way is our path to Thodung

I'll see

Oh, it's a western toilet

-It's a western toilet -Yes, yes

-There's no Nepali toilet? -There is. There's a Nepali toilet

-Where? -It's out back

I only use Nepali toilets

In America, I'm short

You're 7 inches taller than me

Seven inches taller

How tall are you?

I'm 63

That's not the same

Come here, come here

It's not...it's the same

-Oh my... -7 Inches

We're American

I'm American

I'm sorry

In order to be a

Civilized human

We should not neglect our life, our partner

And our relationships

We must do that our entire life...

I'll give that a "Like"

It's a Sherpa song

It's a Sherpa song?

So much Tukpa

Because you want Porter food, yes?

This is porter food

I'm working in the hostel down there

A hostel for the villagers

Helping them, like teaching English

Grammars

Something that I know

So how many people in this room

Like three, four

-Three, four? -Ya, ya

It looks like, one, two, three. It looks like five, six

Ya

One, two, three, four, five. Ya five

-Five, six -Ya

That's crazy

We are like the first generation Sherpa to get education

Everybody started as a porter

And then you go

Assistant guide

And then guide

In Everest like Climbing Sherpas

They say Climbing Sherpas but

Cimbing Sherpas are the porters

Sherpas are the porters on Everest

Tea, tea, tea

Sugar, sugar, sugar

Sugar, sugar, sugar, sugar

-Sugar -Please, take it, take it, take it

Should I sit there?

She is Babu's mom

-Big sister? -Mother! I'm his mother

-And you? -I'm his dad

At first, he worked as a porter

Carrying bags

And

While he was portering

He used to work a lot with foreigners

So he'd get a lot of work

And that's how he got into the mountains

Working as a climber

But then...

There was a hole on top

And it was covered with snow

So he couldn't see it

He stepped on it

His leg got stuck

He died

Did you carry loads too?

What do you mean?

Right now he carries loads

Did you ever work as a porter, he means

Eh, one time...

I portered for {Edmund} Hilary's expedition

In the

In the Everest Region

-You did? -Yes

I carried Hillary's bag

He brought his house from his country

A full house from Australia in pieces

And

It all came apart

So

Every window by bag

Every door by bag

Every slab by bag

Even the roof we packed by bag

And we carried it all the way up there

You know you've made it to Lukla

When you see Baskin Robbins

Now

The real work begins

Let's see if my training paid off

Tomorrow

We buy my namlo

Clean my clothes

And the day after that

Which I have no idea what actual day it is

We go back out into the

Into the world

As an official porter

Why use soap?

It will just smell bad again after this

I'm Nate

-Hello -Hello

-My name is Sukra -Sukra? Sukra. And yours?

I'm Sanjai

But you'll leave with someone else tomorrow

-But you're a porter, right? -Yup

-Alright, let's go. Let's go -Ok

-Ready? -Yup

-Today... -The other porter is coming from his village

He arrives today

My namlo

I need to buy it

You can buy a namlo

-Here? In Lukla? -Here they have them

-Could you teach me? -Ya, ya

Don't worry

-O.k. -We'll teach you

My name is Sukra Tamang

I'm 30 years old

I live in Solukhumbu

My family lives in Kathmandu

I have...

Been a porter for 8 years

-You can buy a namlo here -Here? Okay

Which namlo should I buy? I'm a big guy

A big guy should have a longer namlo

This one?

Yup

One then

Are you guys Sherpa?

No, we're Tamang. He's a Sherpa

-Sherpa? Are you also Sherpa? -Tamang

Ok. Ok.

Awesome

How long is your clients' trek?

Our expedition is, how many? 11 days

11

Base Camp?

Just Base Camp

Is it hard?

Why do you want to do this?

Because

I...

I want to explore Nepali life

Our pay per day isn't great

Payment starts when trekking starts

And lasts until the end of trekking

Nothing on the other days

Power cuts?

Ya

Power cuts today

It's Saturday, right?

This afternoon

What time? Around 5pm?

Ya that's it

But now it's 10, 11?

It's 11am?

It's 11am

On the last day

For 100 kilos

That'd be six bags

Tied as one

Six bags?

One hour would be hard

Just one hour?

From Phakding to here?

Phakding to here, no

From here to their hotel

We'll see

From Phakding to here, I'll try

From Phakding to here, you can't

-I can't? -It's too hard

We'll see, we'll see -O.k.

Pretty pumped

Pretty nervous too for tomorrow as well

I gotta carry other people's stuff

It's gunna be cold. I don't really have clothes

But I'm just complaining

I signed up for this

-How are you? -Good

I'm only going to speak in Nepali

Ok?

I'm a big person

A very big person

You should be able to lift a lot

A lot

100 kilos

I'll carry 100 kilos our last day

My name is Jiban Tamang

I'm 35 years old now

I live in...

Solukhumbu Lodhim VDC Ward #6

And my family stays in the village

In the season, I come here

In the off-season, I work in the field

As a farmer

I've been a porter for

How long is it now?

12 or 13 years

I've been portering

You eating breakfast?

These three guys

Going with us as a porter

-Say hello -Namaste

He is the

Nate

-From America -Ma Nate ho

No rush

You just take your time

If you want to stop

Just let me know

Right?

Just take it easy

Wrap all of it

Like this

You bring it this way

Then do this

To make it shorter, do this

To make it longer, loosen it

Oh my god

Lift it

Lift it!

Good?

Make the namlo shorter or is it ok?

-I think, it's ok -It's ok? Take it

This...

-Alright, alright! -Alright?

I'll get the door for you

11 days, can you do it?

Go like this

Go like this

It won't move

I can't

It's hard

It's not hard!

It's...

It's easy

Slowly, slowly!

-Did we arrive? -We arrived

Finished

Damn

That sucks

This one?

Put it inside

-Hello -Hello

All good?

All good

All goood

You first

Where we staying? Here?

Here we're staying

-Tonight, we stay... -Here

I don't have my tooth brush

No brush?

Alright, shall we?

Wash your feet here

Water's over here

-Water's over there? -Yes

You going too?

I already washed mine

-Wash your feet here -Here?

Now, we sleep

Good night

This isn't fair

The youngest always sleeps alone

Tomorrow, I'm sleeping with another person

-O.k. Tomorrow you can -WIth a wife you could sleep with two people

Okay

He's going to find a wife quickly

I want a wife

He wants a wife

Good?

It's easy

It's easy today

Only 7 hours

-We eat breakfast here -Here?

-Here? -Yea

Mine is terrible

You made it?

-Not eating breakfast? -This is my breakfast

-That's your breakfast? -Yea

Small

We're eating Tukpa. You want Tukpa?

Let's eat Tukpa

You drinking alcohol?

Now?

You're drinking alcohol now?

How?

-For energy. It gives me energy. -Energy?

That's not energy

Porter life is extremely hard

Because

The salary is so small

That you can't eat enough

Just 1500 rupees a day

And with that you can't eat enough food

So what to do?

Tips come on the last day

If they don't give tips, then we work for free

Yea, uh...

I don't get to sleep here

You see that little shed down there?

That's where I sleep

It is always very difficult for porters to find a place to sleep

Because, porters, they are

They're treated differently by others

It used to be much worse

Because at first

They wouldn't even give us a cup of tea

The hostels and other places

They would tell porters

Go, go, go

Get outside

I'm gunna ride this up

It will hit you off

And then you're dead

How many kilos is yours?

-This is 100 kilos -100?

In 5 days, well do it

Try it now

No, no

Later

Last

Our last day

Why not?

Because I'll die

Why would you die?

Because...

Because of this

Can't carry your load?

You wouldn't die, you're huge

I'm big but I'm not Nepali

I'm not strong

For food for 11 days

We spend $90 to $100

So what then?

$13 for an 11 day trek

That's $143

So we only save $43

And that all goes to home and farming

So it's too much work

How much money will you demand?

How much tip?

I won't demand

Why?

It's not respectful

They'll give it to us

I won't demand it

Only we can ask

Only we can ask

They'll give it to us

They won't give it to white people

They probably won't

But they'll give it to us

Tips are necessary for us

Some give $20, some give $5, some give $10

The generous might give $200

But other just 500 Rupees

That would be like

Getting nothing

Here?

Put your bag there

We're sleeping here

Here?

Awesome...

A lot of people will be here

Good

Toilet's out there

Toilet?

I'm not going poop

I'll "hold it in"

Every year, we work about 20 groups

In the October and Spring season

We rest two or three days, then we work again

But

There is not always work

There are other porters

And we have to wait our turn

In all

We work about five to six months

And six, we work at home

How old are you?

24

24?

You

Me?

I'm uh...

Too old

How long have you been portering?

Portering

I've been portering 20 years

20 years?

I'm 40 years old

20 years?

Oh my God...

This is my first week

And it's enough

Yea?

It's so...

...hard

In five months

If we get good groups

We make about $1,000

If we get bad groups then

Just $500 or $400

-In 5 months? -Yes

And in the other months?

In the other months

We have to work extra

As a farmer

Always as a farmer

This...

I'll bring these to base camp

And then I'll come back

But

Today is your off day, isn't it?

You're crazy

For the money

For the money

A lot of money because this will hurt

Ok

Fun...

We porters can have

A little hanging with friends

And chatting in bed

We can enjoy a bit

That's how...

We can be happy, as Porters

We'll win, we'll win

-Oh you won -You win

Goodbye

Put this one there

Now throw it in

-We actually won? -Yup

Money

You won

We won?!

-Cheers -Cheers

Hit it, hit it, hit it!

-Hit it! -Cheers!

It's a tea party!

So we're here on day

I don't know what day it is, but

We're getting acclimatized

Used to the routine

I always take out

Backup socks

Because

I'm allowed to have two pairs of socks

My one's for hiking

My other's for doing this

Otherwise

You know, now it's a mental game

It's a mental game

Can we last mentally

Probably

We have to

Comfortable

Tomorrow, 7:30?

7:30 wake up?

We're up at 7h

We're here sleeping in the

Porter House

I refuse to take two blankets

Because

In the season you only get one blanket

So I'm going to sleep with one blanket

And my socks

And that's it

We're just here sleeping

On the floor with the boys

With the boys here

Got the boys here, got the boys here

It's nice

Alright, we'll talk back to you later

So...

Today we're bumping up to 40

Kilos

I'm not going to lie, I feel terrible

My heads already pounding

And I don't know why

But we're going to act like we're feeling great

But today's gunna suck

Porter doesn't want to be a porter forever

So what does he want?

He too wishes to improve his life

He also has ambition

And he also struggles very much

If the clients get sick

Then Porter has to carry them

But Porters are people too

Picking up bags, resting and sleeping isn't all we do

I'd love for my kid

To send him to school

To become a doctor

To become an engineer

But...

We're too poor

In Nepal, when it's cold we eat this

In Nepal...

When it's cold

You eat Ketchup?

Yup, we eat Ketchup

It warms you up

But it's not cold

It's not cold

I promise you one day up here is cold

This salt is also very useful

Very

If you're thirsty, then drink it with hot water

-You start -Ya, you start

No, you start

"Resham"

"Resham Piripi?"

Fi-ri-ri

Fi-ri-ri

-"Resham Firiri" -"Resham"

All together

"Resham"

"Fir-ri-ri"

"Resha-"

Come on

All together!

"Resham Firiri"

I am a donkey

You are a monkey

I don't know

I'm sleeping

We're going to try to fit three on top of this bunk bed

Where should I sleep?

-Up here -On the ground?

No, no

Up there

Where are you sleeping?

-I'll sleep in the dining room. You'll sleep here -No, no, no

Why?

There's already eight people here

Somebody will fall off

-Three people will fit -No they won't

-Why? -It's weak

We'll fit

Let's go, let's go, let's go

Here, I'll sleep here

This is strong

I'll sleep here

Alright

Let's go

Goodnight

Hopefully, we don't break this bed

And fall through and die

Or kill them

Or freeze to death

We'll see

Thanks "Big Sister" for us

That's "big sister"

Alright, we'll see ya

It's the morning of our

Eight, night, tenth

Ninth day

So it's the first day we're heading back

Down the mountains

And, uh...

I'm really looking forward to getting out of here

Last night

At one point, I didn't even have a blanket

So, ya

It wasn't warm

I'm just ready

I'm ready to go home

Ready to

Go home

Last trip, one guy way up there

In Ampu Lapcha

Pass

He fell really ill

And his group kept going

So he had to return alone

But his leg was badly hurt

If there weren't any others

Then he'd be left alone

And then what?

He'd die

Who will help? No one

It could happen to us too

Meat! Meat at your head

We eat that tonight

In two days

You'll lift 100 kilos

I'll lift 100 kilos

From Phakding

From Phakding to Lukla

The foreigners will give us our tips

Two nights from now

We hope that

They will give us a lot

But we do not know

How much they will give

-What? -The meat and rice song

Meat and rice

-Meat and rice song -The meat and rice song?

The meat and rice song?

All three of yours?

Yup

-You too -I don't sing

No, no, no, we...

We need a woman's voice

Ready?

Meat and rice

Please give us big sister

We will eat it

We're hungry

Big sister together we can...

I taught him a song

Really? It's terrible

He sings so well

You don't like it

I don't like it

O.k. O.k.

I'll try again

Big sister...

We can eat dhal bhat together

Every single night

Here in Pheriche

What did he say?

That...

-You didn't understand? -In Pheriche we can eat dhal bhat together

We together

I'll eat seperately

-I don't share meals -You won't eat?

I won't eat

You eat meat and rice?

Don't eat it

-You eat tukpa? -Don't eat it

-What do you eat? -I don't eat anything

Then every night we can not eat together

Yea?

No

It's hard

It's hard

-Life is hard -Life is hard

Life is hard

Today's my last day

One thing

I hate downhill

Two

I'm happy it's my last day

Well...

When I first started, I...

From Lukla to Namche

I carried two 50 kilo bags of cement

-100 kilos -100 kilos for...

I carried that for 5 months

That's 100 kilos

That's enough

-It's enough? -It's enough

-It's 100? -Yup, it's 100

Oh my god

Let's work

Very good

Well, let's see, let's see

Very good

Strong

I don't know if I can do it

You're a strong man

Maybe ten

Ten feet later I'll die

Alright. Let's go?

Oh my God

Let's go

This is 100 kilos

We can carry the rest now

I'm doing it all

Do not go on

I'm going slowly, but

I'll finish it

Lift it, lift it! That won't work

Lukla, Lukla

You arrived in Lukla. Let's go!

I can't do it

One minute

I'm going to rest

I'm going to rest

I'm going to rest

Here, I'm resting

Well done sir

Bring it home

Where is it?

Keep going. Keep going straight mate

How far?

How far!

How far!

Bout

Ten meters

And then you turn right

Here?

There, there!

Here

There?

Not inside, not inside

Slowly now

Thank you. Thank you

Thank you

I think we got your bag

You made it

I think we got your bag

Give me a moment

We're here baby

Nice work

Well done

Well done sir

Oh baby

No chance I'm eating dhal bhat tonight

Zero percent chance

I'm eating pizza

And cheeseburgers

How are you guys doing?

-Good, good -Happy?

Ya

Very happy

Very happy you carried my bag

Without Porters

This whole trekking area wouldn't work

It just wouldn't work

Tourists can't carry loads

Guides won't carry loads

Without Porter, there's nothing

This is our meat and rice song