Original subtitles

Hello everyone, welcome to this video.Today,

I would like to share my experience in building the 1/48 scale B-25 model kit from HK Models brand.

I'm just an amateur hobbyist.

This is simply my personal experience and insights as a model maker that I would like to share.

During the past week, I received many likes and hundreds of comments

from fellow model makers on several Facebook groups dedicated to model building.

I am very grateful for all the encouragement and feedback that I have received from everyone.

If you are also interested in model making or finding personal satisfaction that goes beyond

financial gain, I do have some things that I would like to share with you.

The content of this video is not a step-by-step tutorial on how to build the model.

I just shared what I believe are the key points or

questions and answers that people may have in their minds.

The first key point is the characteristics of this kit.

The price of this kit is two to three times higher than other brands.There must be a

reason why it is marketed at such a high price point in the market.One important point about

this kit is its exquisite texture and the clear, shallow panel lines on the surface.

When holding the kit, you can immediately notice the fine details, which reminded me of the possibility to explore and

showcase the historical significance of the aircraft through the use of detailed photos and accurate representation of panel lines.

This, to me, is a key factor in pursuing this hobby further.

The details are not only visible on the main wings but also on the tail wings.

His clear parts also offer several options.I

want to skip that part of the production because I am actually not skilled enough in

this area.The only thing worth mentioning is the connection between the transparent pieces and the fuselage.

I used water-based white glue to fully cover the inside of

these transparent pieces and also fully sealed the connection points.

I have two objectives.

The first one is to attach the transparent piece to the fuselage.

My second purpose is to protect the interior of the head compartment from any dust.

Two weeks later, what I saw was that the covered area had become completely transparent after drying.

Next, I am going to describe the external fabrication process.

This is the second bomber I made from HK Models.

Their key feature is that the main wings and fuselage are joined together through a tab-and-slot system.

Almost no glue is needed for a seamless fit as they are joined together using a tab and slot system.

The action of this joint is reversible.

Because of the large size of the bomber, we do need to take it apart to make it.

So after my attempt at assembly, I quickly took them apart into three main pieces.

Next, I'll talk about my preferred method of pre-shading.

Actually, during my first three years of model-making, I also followed the method of spraying thin

black lines on every recessed panel line as my pre-shading lines, just like everyone else.

Because I personally prefer to make 1/32 or 1/48 scale aircraft models, I spend

more effort on the surface texture and detailing of the fuselage in my models.

I usually travel to many aviation museums on the West Coast of the United States as my destination.

I have visited numerous aviation museums on the West Coast of the United States during my travels.

I have seen hundreds of vintage airplanes, although more than half of them are restored planes.

However, they all have one thing in common, which is that they do

not have the pronounced panel lines that are often seen in models.

I saw many rows of rivets and surfaces under pressure caused by

the force, unlike the prominent panel lines often seen in models.

In addition to visiting aviation museums, old historical photos are also

important to me because they are the evidence I rely on.

So I slowly began to want to paint on the surface

of the aircraft the appearance of the photos I saw.

I have tried using small tools to sand the surface to create the appearance of pressed panels, but I failed

several times because it was difficult to control and there are actually thousands of panels on a single plane.

My alternative approach is to paint it instead.

Of course, it requires a lot of patience and time, but I treat

it as a hobby, so I don't mind spending time on it.

Seeing the result fills my heart with joy, making it a fun activity.

I have shared my pre-shading process through many videos.

Most of the time, it's natural metal finish with a silver surface.

When making the B-17 airplane model, the entire airplane body was olive drab in color.

When I was making this B-25, I saw a lot of historical photos showing that the top half

of the plane was olive drab color, while the bottom half was a natural metal finish silver surface.

This was my opportunity to venture into a new field, so I boldly went down that path.

Using my familiar method of the soft metal sheet, I followed the process step by step.

When using the olive color, I added a little bit of buff color to create a more vintage color tone.

When I lay down the base color, I am not pursuing visual satisfaction

because I know there will be many opportunities for corrections later on.

I couldn't find an exact match for the logo used on the Chinese Air Force's B-25,

but I found the insignia used on the B-24, so I decided to borrow it.

During the Anti-Japanese War, there were over 200 Chinese Air Force B-25s in operation.

In that era without air superiority, I admire these aerial heroes and pay my tribute to them.

These water decal national emblems must be applied after the base color is completed

so that they can blend in with the surface in the later stages.

The next step is to enter the process of detailing, so I put it

on a pair of stable stands to make it easier to do fine brushwork.

During the painting process, there were two main tools used.

One was a set of colored pencils used for detailing and the other was oil

paint applied with a dry, hard-bristled brush to create an overall smooth or uneven surface.

I prioritize using oil paint to create the continuity of the soft metal surface.

After I am satisfied with the overall surface on the large areas,

then I start using colored pencils to refine the small details.

The colored pencils I used were white and silver.

After the first batch of photos were developed, it was discovered that the level of aging

depicted by the colored pencils was not able to match the appearance of historical photos.

I decided to re-scribe some of the lines and then apply a white oil paint wash to the partial area.

Okay, it's time to check the results.

I prefer to use a long lens to take pictures under

sunlight because this way I can fully express all the colors.

Then I displayed the photographed images on my 32-inch computer screen and carefully inspected every detail.

If I see anything that needs improvement, I continue to make corrections.

So when I communicate with a fellow model maker, we often encounter the problem of not knowing when to end.

Regarding this project, we'll end the sharing for now and discuss it again in our next video.

Bye!