All language subtitles for Distance Between Dreams (2016)-en

af Afrikaans Download
ak Akan
sq Albanian
am Amharic
ar Arabic Download
hy Armenian
az Azerbaijani
eu Basque
be Belarusian
bem Bemba
bn Bengali
bh Bihari
bs Bosnian
br Breton
bg Bulgarian
km Cambodian
ca Catalan
ceb Cebuano
chr Cherokee
ny Chichewa
zh-CN Chinese (Simplified)
zh-TW Chinese (Traditional) Download
co Corsican
hr Croatian Download
cs Czech
da Danish
nl Dutch
en English Download
eo Esperanto
et Estonian
ee Ewe
fo Faroese
tl Filipino
fi Finnish
fr French
fy Frisian
gaa Ga
gl Galician
ka Georgian
de German
el Greek
gn Guarani
gu Gujarati
ht Haitian Creole
ha Hausa
haw Hawaiian
iw Hebrew
hi Hindi
hmn Hmong
hu Hungarian
is Icelandic
ig Igbo
id Indonesian Download
ia Interlingua
ga Irish
it Italian
ja Japanese
jw Javanese
kn Kannada
kk Kazakh
rw Kinyarwanda
rn Kirundi
kg Kongo
ko Korean
kri Krio (Sierra Leone)
ku Kurdish
ckb Kurdish (Soranî)
ky Kyrgyz
lo Laothian
la Latin
lv Latvian
ln Lingala
lt Lithuanian
loz Lozi
lg Luganda
ach Luo
lb Luxembourgish
mk Macedonian
mg Malagasy
ms Malay
ml Malayalam
mt Maltese
mi Maori
mr Marathi
mfe Mauritian Creole
mo Moldavian
mn Mongolian
my Myanmar (Burmese)
sr-ME Montenegrin
ne Nepali
pcm Nigerian Pidgin
nso Northern Sotho
no Norwegian
nn Norwegian (Nynorsk)
oc Occitan
or Oriya
om Oromo
ps Pashto
fa Persian
pl Polish
pt-BR Portuguese (Brazil)
pt Portuguese (Portugal) Download
pa Punjabi
qu Quechua
ro Romanian
rm Romansh
nyn Runyakitara
ru Russian
sm Samoan
gd Scots Gaelic
sr Serbian
sh Serbo-Croatian
st Sesotho
tn Setswana
crs Seychellois Creole
sn Shona
sd Sindhi
si Sinhalese
sk Slovak
sl Slovenian
so Somali
es Spanish Download
es-419 Spanish (Latin American)
su Sundanese
sw Swahili
sv Swedish
tg Tajik
ta Tamil
tt Tatar
te Telugu
th Thai
ti Tigrinya
to Tonga
lua Tshiluba
tum Tumbuka
tr Turkish
tk Turkmen
tw Twi
ug Uighur
uk Ukrainian
ur Urdu
uz Uzbek
vi Vietnamese
cy Welsh
wo Wolof
xh Xhosa
yi Yiddish
yo Yoruba
zu Zulu
Would you like to inspect the original subtitles? These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:19,560 --> 00:00:25,320 SOUTHERN PACIFIC 2 00:00:59,600 --> 00:01:02,920 At this age and age, You need to go a little while. 3 00:01:03,120 --> 00:01:05,880 or at least wish take a few more steps 4 00:01:06,000 --> 00:01:08,250 that any other person is willing to give 5 00:01:09,251 --> 00:01:13,251 Subpack and sync by DanDee 6 00:02:15,680 --> 00:02:17,040 Walsh wins Xcel Pro 7 00:02:35,840 --> 00:02:37,290 Surfer AS 100 BEST WAVES 8 00:02:42,920 --> 00:02:44,220 THE END OF THE MACHINE 9 00:03:13,240 --> 00:03:14,540 That's it, boys. 10 00:03:15,800 --> 00:03:17,100 Long flight. 11 00:03:17,600 --> 00:03:19,280 Somewhat relaxing. 12 00:03:19,960 --> 00:03:21,199 Take that tip. 13 00:03:21,200 --> 00:03:24,800 We kind of get caught up in the weather and we missed the best day of March. 14 00:03:26,360 --> 00:03:28,800 Part of what we do like surfers, 15 00:03:28,920 --> 00:03:30,760 You screw up. 16 00:03:31,520 --> 00:03:35,720 Not every trip we make we have perfect surfing, 17 00:03:35,800 --> 00:03:37,480 and it always works out. 18 00:03:37,720 --> 00:03:39,111 It just does not work that way. 19 00:03:41,800 --> 00:03:43,600 Now we are at the end of summer, 20 00:03:43,680 --> 00:03:47,440 and now my focus is shifting for the northern hemisphere 21 00:03:47,560 --> 00:03:49,280 and the preparation for Hawaii. 22 00:03:50,520 --> 00:03:51,479 When they foresee a strong El Ni o, 23 00:03:51,480 --> 00:03:52,439 Brother 24 00:03:52,440 --> 00:03:53,359 HOOKIPA BEACH 25 00:03:53,360 --> 00:03:54,599 ... everyone gets excited. 26 00:03:54,600 --> 00:03:57,520 O El Ni o, basically like an unusual time pattern. 27 00:03:57,600 --> 00:03:58,919 The Pacific Ocean is hotter than normal 28 00:03:58,920 --> 00:03:59,799 SURFER 29 00:03:59,800 --> 00:04:01,640 ... and allows us to pick up many big waves. 30 00:04:02,440 --> 00:04:04,240 I really started getting serious. 31 00:04:04,320 --> 00:04:06,400 when Ian sat with me and Shaun one day 32 00:04:06,480 --> 00:04:08,039 and said, "Be prepared, this may be the craziest winter of their lives. " 33 00:04:08,040 --> 00:04:09,340 Brother 34 00:04:10,840 --> 00:04:13,520 The last El Ni o was in 1998. 35 00:04:13,640 --> 00:04:15,120 It was an incredible winter. 36 00:04:15,200 --> 00:04:16,159 JANUARY 1998 37 00:04:16,160 --> 00:04:18,160 There were many sessions of giant waves in Jaws. 38 00:04:18,800 --> 00:04:21,360 Extreme surfing, extreme conditions, 39 00:04:21,440 --> 00:04:22,359 simply day after day, of perfection. 40 00:04:22,360 --> 00:04:23,799 PROJECTOR OF PLANTS AND TRAINER 41 00:04:23,800 --> 00:04:26,280 Taylor Knox caught a wave in Mexico, 42 00:04:26,360 --> 00:04:28,200 who stood the test of time. 43 00:04:30,320 --> 00:04:33,440 A really strong El Ni o happens so rarely, 44 00:04:33,600 --> 00:04:37,680 what a great opportunity to see what the limit is, 45 00:04:38,000 --> 00:04:39,920 Until where the surf goes. 46 00:04:42,480 --> 00:04:43,839 I think you will see the biggest waves being surfed ... 47 00:04:43,840 --> 00:04:44,759 SURFER 48 00:04:44,760 --> 00:04:46,060 ... in the history of our sport. 49 00:04:48,680 --> 00:04:51,720 Jaws basically has the largest wave in the world. 50 00:04:53,200 --> 00:04:54,720 And Ian lives straight away. 51 00:04:55,640 --> 00:04:58,000 So he's in a very unusual position. 52 00:05:01,600 --> 00:05:02,759 SURFER 53 00:05:02,760 --> 00:05:05,455 If Jaws is rolling, the world of Surfing descends on your shoulders. 54 00:05:07,800 --> 00:05:10,480 Are you ready to good waves of one to two meters, 55 00:05:10,560 --> 00:05:12,120 but it's only about 18 meters. 56 00:05:13,640 --> 00:05:15,840 And something you can surf, 57 00:05:15,920 --> 00:05:17,360 You know, you can paddle in there. 58 00:05:25,960 --> 00:05:27,880 The way that Ian and these guys are surfing 59 00:05:28,480 --> 00:05:32,120 they are surfing like they are waves of two meters. 60 00:05:36,640 --> 00:05:38,279 You have to laugh. It's difficult to understand, you know. 61 00:05:38,280 --> 00:05:39,640 SURFER 62 00:05:42,240 --> 00:05:45,760 There is almost no other place which offered this intensity. 63 00:05:50,800 --> 00:05:54,400 A wave can drag you tens of meters under the water. 64 00:05:59,480 --> 00:06:00,919 With a Violence that you can not 65 00:06:00,920 --> 00:06:02,640 control their arms, you hit yourself, 66 00:06:02,840 --> 00:06:04,840 He really thinks he's going to die. 67 00:06:11,480 --> 00:06:14,600 Fight and try to force 68 00:06:15,360 --> 00:06:18,800 can burn more oxygen than you can. 69 00:06:27,560 --> 00:06:29,280 a calculated risk that you assume, 70 00:06:29,360 --> 00:06:31,280 and you manage and minimizes risks 71 00:06:31,480 --> 00:06:33,200 with your physical conditioning 72 00:06:33,760 --> 00:06:35,320 and mentally prepared. 73 00:06:41,160 --> 00:06:42,460 325, Ian. 74 00:06:42,680 --> 00:06:44,600 A good ride, good work ... 75 00:06:44,800 --> 00:06:46,100 and stop! 76 00:06:49,240 --> 00:06:50,540 Good test. 77 00:06:53,920 --> 00:06:55,920 Ian is one of our more dedicated athletes. 78 00:06:56,000 --> 00:06:58,240 In fact, throughout the curriculum, 79 00:06:58,320 --> 00:07:00,239 he probably participated more training ... 80 00:07:00,240 --> 00:07:01,359 HIGH PERFORMANCE COACH 81 00:07:01,360 --> 00:07:02,960 ... that any other if I remember. 82 00:07:04,920 --> 00:07:07,440 You go from things that are very practical, which we call 83 00:07:07,640 --> 00:07:08,639 training. 84 00:07:08,640 --> 00:07:10,560 All these things, you can see 85 00:07:10,760 --> 00:07:12,480 directly the relationship with better surfing. 86 00:07:12,960 --> 00:07:16,400 The interesting thing is that Ian also pioneered the boundaries. 87 00:07:16,480 --> 00:07:19,200 He participated in training where we challenge you, 88 00:07:19,400 --> 00:07:20,760 and in this environment, 89 00:07:20,840 --> 00:07:23,119 I think we see evolution in training for big waves, 90 00:07:23,120 --> 00:07:25,480 in this idea of ​​triumph under pressure. 91 00:07:25,560 --> 00:07:28,160 Fifteen seconds. Do you want to go? to the next stage. Let's go! 92 00:07:31,720 --> 00:07:34,600 - You got it! Let's go! -Good work, my friend. 93 00:07:34,680 --> 00:07:36,560 He rehearses his techniques 94 00:07:36,640 --> 00:07:39,160 in the sense of making the right decision on the right time, 95 00:07:39,240 --> 00:07:40,848 when the parameters are very high. 96 00:07:43,960 --> 00:07:46,280 If they get caught by a wave of 20 meters, 97 00:07:46,360 --> 00:07:48,159 need to have all the skills and techniques 98 00:07:48,160 --> 00:07:49,159 FREE DIVING COACH 99 00:07:49,160 --> 00:07:52,440 to hold the breath in a emergency that can last a minute, 100 00:07:55,160 --> 00:07:56,880 and you need to do this several times, 101 00:07:56,960 --> 00:07:59,880 with intervals of only 15 seconds. 102 00:08:01,640 --> 00:08:03,160 Your violent shark. 103 00:08:04,880 --> 00:08:07,080 The effort by which we make them pass the equivalent 104 00:08:07,160 --> 00:08:10,400 of any highly trained, with whom we already work. 105 00:08:11,400 --> 00:08:13,680 You just know that I'm giving me the maximum 106 00:08:13,760 --> 00:08:16,480 to stay the most comfortable possible 107 00:08:16,560 --> 00:08:19,960 in the less comfortable environment which I can imagine. 108 00:08:21,000 --> 00:08:23,360 He is doing dives of 50 meters, 109 00:08:23,560 --> 00:08:25,800 apneia of almost five minutes. 110 00:08:27,680 --> 00:08:30,600 Need to be prepared to the maximum level, 111 00:08:30,720 --> 00:08:32,280 otherwise, will find, 112 00:08:32,480 --> 00:08:35,160 that wave that can not support. 113 00:08:38,000 --> 00:08:39,039 DECEMBER 2012 114 00:08:39,040 --> 00:08:40,639 CORTES BANK 180 KM WEST OF SAN DIEGO 115 00:08:40,640 --> 00:08:42,120 From experience, 116 00:08:42,760 --> 00:08:44,800 DK saved my life, no doubt. 117 00:08:46,160 --> 00:08:48,320 I drowned in Cortes Bank. 118 00:08:54,400 --> 00:08:55,700 The ambulance is on its way. 119 00:09:02,360 --> 00:09:03,660 What happened? 120 00:09:04,520 --> 00:09:06,960 You were pulled down. and simply stayed ... 121 00:09:08,080 --> 00:09:10,949 The board hit you in the head, on the belly or somewhere else? 122 00:09:11,160 --> 00:09:13,400 If it was not for DK be l ... 123 00:09:14,160 --> 00:09:15,319 PLYWOOD PROJECTOR 124 00:09:15,320 --> 00:09:17,580 ... you know, it's the big reason Greg's still alive. 125 00:09:20,360 --> 00:09:21,660 If it were not for him, 126 00:09:21,680 --> 00:09:23,245 heroically, abandoning jet ski to 127 00:09:23,360 --> 00:09:25,080 hundreds of kilometers, in the middle of the sea, 128 00:09:25,160 --> 00:09:26,760 to take my body without life, 129 00:09:26,840 --> 00:09:30,800 and then hold me and cross two more or three big waves ... 130 00:09:31,400 --> 00:09:34,720 You will not find any other rescue team like this in the world. 131 00:09:36,200 --> 00:09:37,920 Saving someone's life, especially 132 00:09:38,120 --> 00:09:39,840 of someone like him, so close, 133 00:09:39,920 --> 00:09:43,240 really motivated me to do what we do today. 134 00:09:45,360 --> 00:09:47,319 I and my brothers, we are all a little younger 135 00:09:47,320 --> 00:09:49,920 but at home we moved, taking care of each other. 136 00:09:50,320 --> 00:09:52,640 And that's because of Ian and his brothers. 137 00:09:53,840 --> 00:09:56,040 We used to call them of "the squirrels". 138 00:09:56,360 --> 00:09:59,080 Ian was the knight and they, their little helpers ... 139 00:09:59,240 --> 00:10:00,239 DAD 140 00:10:00,240 --> 00:10:01,540 ... and it was very good. 141 00:10:02,840 --> 00:10:05,560 If Shaun and DK are there, the twins, he's fine. 142 00:10:05,640 --> 00:10:07,726 Like, they'll get him, no matter what happened 143 00:10:07,960 --> 00:10:08,839 Mother 144 00:10:08,840 --> 00:10:10,079 Make things easier. 145 00:10:10,080 --> 00:10:12,280 It's never easy, but it makes it easier. 146 00:10:17,160 --> 00:10:20,600 What a crazy combination, the four brothers. 147 00:10:20,840 --> 00:10:22,160 They are a team. 148 00:10:23,080 --> 00:10:25,640 He is the oldest brother, we all follow in his footsteps. 149 00:10:25,720 --> 00:10:27,020 If he were a degenerate, 150 00:10:27,040 --> 00:10:28,039 Brother 151 00:10:28,040 --> 00:10:29,919 we would probably have followed by this way, 152 00:10:29,920 --> 00:10:32,840 but he was a student exemplary in the collegiate. 153 00:10:35,480 --> 00:10:38,800 My love and passion for big waves. 154 00:10:39,160 --> 00:10:41,840 I would not be what, without my brothers. 155 00:10:42,360 --> 00:10:43,660 It just would not work. 156 00:10:48,120 --> 00:10:50,440 It seemed that even before of winter to begin, 157 00:10:50,520 --> 00:10:52,160 he was working hard. 158 00:10:55,520 --> 00:10:57,606 He kind of knew that there was an anticipation there, 159 00:10:57,680 --> 00:10:59,640 since El Ni o was drawing 160 00:10:59,720 --> 00:11:01,285 and the climate began to settle. 161 00:11:01,400 --> 00:11:05,040 He is one of the few elite athletes in our sport. 162 00:11:05,960 --> 00:11:08,920 And the twins, they kind of look different. 163 00:11:09,160 --> 00:11:12,680 They are like their own natural training, I would say so. 164 00:11:14,120 --> 00:11:15,728 really connect with yourself 165 00:11:15,800 --> 00:11:18,720 and remain physically active, no matter what you do. 166 00:11:23,120 --> 00:11:26,360 Beyond all science and the community supporting 167 00:11:26,440 --> 00:11:28,483 and trying to help him to improve in large waves, 168 00:11:28,760 --> 00:11:32,520 I think it's just important he surfed, for the sake of surfing. 169 00:11:34,600 --> 00:11:37,880 There is no competition, the waves They're as big as they can be ... 170 00:11:38,880 --> 00:11:41,000 connect with your friends and enjoy, 171 00:11:41,120 --> 00:11:43,840 and that is an important part of this program. 172 00:11:48,480 --> 00:11:50,088 My favorite type surfer 173 00:11:50,240 --> 00:11:51,960 who gets to have fun with everything. 174 00:11:52,120 --> 00:11:54,160 If the wave of one meter or 25, 175 00:11:54,240 --> 00:11:56,480 he will still be able to go there and have fun. 176 00:11:56,760 --> 00:11:59,803 Guys like Ian are the guys in which really inspires me, for this. 177 00:16:53,760 --> 00:16:56,960 Basically, in each high seas, you have a decision to make, 178 00:16:57,040 --> 00:17:00,080 because there will be a competition that you need to worry about 179 00:17:00,160 --> 00:17:04,400 or if you are going to surf the waves that really want, that the big bid. 180 00:17:06,320 --> 00:17:07,620 When are you leaving? 181 00:17:07,680 --> 00:17:10,880 I go out tomorrow night, probably, to Oahu, 182 00:17:10,960 --> 00:17:12,260 for the competition. 183 00:17:12,720 --> 00:17:16,200 I would like to go to Jaws, s to deferrujar. 184 00:17:17,160 --> 00:17:18,920 How do you account for everything here? 185 00:17:19,000 --> 00:17:19,959 So much. 186 00:17:19,960 --> 00:17:22,360 What you mean? You have two children. 187 00:17:22,640 --> 00:17:25,422 Yes, children will be easy after that deal with all these things. 188 00:17:26,480 --> 00:17:28,960 Competitions in the world circuit for about 11 years. 189 00:17:29,280 --> 00:17:31,840 When I was stopping, Ian was just beginning, 190 00:17:31,960 --> 00:17:33,680 trying to qualify to the circuit. 191 00:17:33,960 --> 00:17:35,920 And I said, "Dude, there's no one your age 192 00:17:36,000 --> 00:17:37,920 behind the bid of the great wave ". 193 00:17:38,160 --> 00:17:39,480 So I went to Ian and said, 194 00:17:39,560 --> 00:17:41,999 "Let's become partners who surf big waves together. " 195 00:17:42,000 --> 00:17:43,300 NOVEMBER 2007 196 00:17:43,400 --> 00:17:44,840 I think he made the right choice 197 00:17:44,920 --> 00:17:48,200 on surfing the big waves enough and yet be competitive 198 00:17:48,280 --> 00:17:49,580 events and everything. 199 00:17:51,600 --> 00:17:52,900 Any wave? 200 00:17:53,680 --> 00:17:55,000 It's blowing a lot. 201 00:17:55,440 --> 00:17:57,920 Dude, it's very uneven. 202 00:17:58,000 --> 00:17:59,720 See how big the second wave. 203 00:17:59,800 --> 00:18:03,480 It would be difficult to maintain the position, with all this turbulence. 204 00:18:03,960 --> 00:18:06,000 The sea was kind of weak and strange, 205 00:18:06,200 --> 00:18:07,634 the wind was totally wrong. 206 00:18:08,000 --> 00:18:09,300 What do you want to do? 207 00:18:09,320 --> 00:18:10,620 I think I'll get out. 208 00:18:11,040 --> 00:18:13,680 I'm going to stop in Kuau, get things and I'm going. 209 00:18:13,760 --> 00:18:15,060 We're very late. 210 00:18:17,000 --> 00:18:18,119 Have fun l . 211 00:18:18,120 --> 00:18:19,760 He decided to go to Honulua Bay, 212 00:18:19,840 --> 00:18:21,579 and I think he decided shoot with arrows. 213 00:18:43,520 --> 00:18:47,200 It really complicates things when you try and do what Ian does. 214 00:18:48,640 --> 00:18:51,360 He really focused on surfing giant waves in Jaws, 215 00:18:51,440 --> 00:18:53,880 and she's really in love for surfing in competitions. 216 00:18:54,040 --> 00:18:57,160 The waves are with a quarter of the size. 217 00:18:58,520 --> 00:19:00,399 So they will not see you again. attend the event? 218 00:19:00,400 --> 00:19:01,720 It's going well now. 219 00:19:02,640 --> 00:19:05,640 My battery changed from the third day for today, the second day, 220 00:19:05,720 --> 00:19:09,000 and this has become utter madness to get everything ready 221 00:19:09,080 --> 00:19:11,160 and pack up to go to Oahu. 222 00:19:11,520 --> 00:19:14,600 simply insane, all this season of competition. 223 00:19:14,720 --> 00:19:16,320 I try to help him whenever I can. 224 00:19:18,120 --> 00:19:22,480 He tries to balance both, which is not an easy task. 225 00:19:26,360 --> 00:19:27,660 Just before my battery, 226 00:19:27,760 --> 00:19:29,559 I was warming myself on some new boards. 227 00:19:29,560 --> 00:19:33,000 In the first wave, I climbed it and she literally broke. 228 00:19:34,000 --> 00:19:36,217 I thought, "This is ... Is this really happening? " 229 00:19:36,920 --> 00:19:38,760 - On a wave. "On a wave, like this?" 230 00:19:39,160 --> 00:19:41,280 I can only improve from this point. 231 00:19:44,080 --> 00:19:48,880 Welcome to HIC Pro 2015, a $ 100,000 event. 232 00:19:48,960 --> 00:19:51,360 Ian Walsh, ten years ago, winning this event, 233 00:19:51,480 --> 00:19:53,760 and of course, former finalist, 234 00:19:53,880 --> 00:19:57,040 going very well in the Triple Crown Vans of surfing, in the last year. 235 00:19:57,120 --> 00:19:59,946 If you know Ian, he's out. seeking the biggest wave in the world. 236 00:20:01,120 --> 00:20:04,560 Jack Robinson, 17 years old, a phenomenon in Australia. 237 00:20:05,000 --> 00:20:07,600 It will be a good wave punctuation for theft. 238 00:20:08,080 --> 00:20:10,840 Ian ... let's see. Red, Ian Walsh. 239 00:20:16,040 --> 00:20:19,520 Here we go. Jack Robinson in action, firing in front. 240 00:20:20,000 --> 00:20:23,560 Jack Robinson, in white, in first, Ian Walsh, in second. 241 00:20:24,200 --> 00:20:26,400 He is trying to improve on 5.67. 242 00:20:26,640 --> 00:20:27,940 Nice wave. 243 00:20:29,720 --> 00:20:31,360 And the alarm sounds. 244 00:20:31,480 --> 00:20:33,960 Ian Walsh, an excellent surfing experience. 245 00:20:34,080 --> 00:20:35,960 He ripped Robo out of the first place. 246 00:20:37,640 --> 00:20:40,320 Testing microphone. Yellow, leather. Red leather. 247 00:20:40,400 --> 00:20:41,760 Ian, nice to meet you. 248 00:20:42,960 --> 00:20:44,260 good to see more of Ian Walsh. 249 00:20:44,320 --> 00:20:45,624 "My parables, Ian. -Thank you. 250 00:20:45,720 --> 00:20:48,806 I'll say hello to the 4th grade class of my mother, who is watching, 251 00:20:48,840 --> 00:20:50,520 Pukalani School in Maui. 252 00:20:50,800 --> 00:20:52,760 Hello, Pukalani School! 253 00:20:52,840 --> 00:20:54,600 Ian was well taken care of. Uncle Ian detonated. 254 00:20:54,680 --> 00:20:55,799 With you guys. 255 00:20:55,800 --> 00:20:57,100 It's good to see you. -Right. 256 00:20:58,560 --> 00:21:03,120 And here we go, 23 minutes left for two more surfers to go to the final 257 00:21:03,200 --> 00:21:05,120 along with Kaito Kino and Billy Kemper. 258 00:21:05,440 --> 00:21:07,840 a takeoff in turbulent waters for Ian Walsh. 259 00:21:08,600 --> 00:21:12,000 Putting the level here for the semifinal number two. 260 00:21:12,640 --> 00:21:14,200 Surfing theft. 261 00:21:14,440 --> 00:21:16,200 Beautiful combined curve maneuver. 262 00:21:16,920 --> 00:21:18,440 Here we go, Ian Walsh. 263 00:21:19,040 --> 00:21:21,080 the famous Ian Walsh right there. 264 00:21:22,680 --> 00:21:24,680 Jack Robinson on the second wave. 265 00:21:27,760 --> 00:21:29,920 Well, that will solve it. the second semifinal. 266 00:21:30,000 --> 00:21:34,520 Ian Walsh and Jack Robinson, advancing, in first and second, final 267 00:21:34,600 --> 00:21:36,920 to face Billy Kemper and Kaito Kino. 268 00:21:37,680 --> 00:21:40,080 And we're on our way to the final. 269 00:21:40,920 --> 00:21:42,280 -Ian Walsh. -Ian Walsh. 270 00:21:42,360 --> 00:21:45,160 A beautiful exit, slide in the curve to the top. 271 00:21:45,280 --> 00:21:48,080 An aggressive curve, down again, another turn, 272 00:21:48,160 --> 00:21:50,320 a little more aggressive, the second turn. 273 00:21:50,680 --> 00:21:54,920 My goodness, I could not wish a better start as a competitor. 274 00:21:59,040 --> 00:22:00,560 We got Billy coming out. 275 00:22:00,680 --> 00:22:02,280 Let's see the closing maneuver. 276 00:22:04,320 --> 00:22:08,480 And right behind him, Ian Walsh, quickly reaching that 9.93. 277 00:22:09,160 --> 00:22:11,760 With that chill, and he is in the lead. 278 00:22:14,480 --> 00:22:17,040 And it is simply a return of victory at this point. 279 00:22:17,200 --> 00:22:18,560 There are few people 280 00:22:18,640 --> 00:22:21,239 As good as he is in waves. small, and especially large, 281 00:22:21,240 --> 00:22:24,360 and proof of this their performance in Sunset Beach. 282 00:22:24,480 --> 00:22:26,199 Look at Ian Walsh, it is on fire. 283 00:22:26,200 --> 00:22:29,880 Billy Kemper, he stayed with 5.6 in this event ... 284 00:22:30,200 --> 00:22:33,920 You are one, now, twice champion of HIC Pro, 285 00:22:34,040 --> 00:22:36,640 2005 and now in 2015, 286 00:22:36,760 --> 00:22:38,600 of Maui, Ian Walsh! 287 00:22:46,400 --> 00:22:49,040 Back to the bike. right after that. 288 00:22:58,280 --> 00:22:59,580 Right. 289 00:22:59,880 --> 00:23:01,180 Winter has come. 290 00:23:03,520 --> 00:23:04,799 What a day. 291 00:23:04,800 --> 00:23:06,560 Damn it, I'm so excited! 292 00:23:09,160 --> 00:23:12,080 It's so good to win a tournament. 293 00:23:12,240 --> 00:23:14,920 Oh, my God, I'm so electric. 294 00:23:15,240 --> 00:23:19,600 But it's so good. So many times, I've been so close to achieving this. 295 00:23:27,720 --> 00:23:29,240 ... for Ian Walsh, 296 00:23:29,600 --> 00:23:31,560 and certainly for all children 297 00:23:31,760 --> 00:23:34,440 of his mother's class, at the Pukalani School ... 298 00:23:34,520 --> 00:23:35,820 EAST Airport Joint Base 299 00:23:41,240 --> 00:23:42,540 BOX OFFICE 300 00:23:47,240 --> 00:23:49,160 4:20 p.m. 301 00:23:52,280 --> 00:23:54,480 Good job. Parab ns. 302 00:23:54,960 --> 00:23:56,079 I had fun. 303 00:23:56,080 --> 00:23:57,520 I'm so excited. 304 00:24:07,760 --> 00:24:09,060 Thank you guys. 305 00:24:09,080 --> 00:24:11,880 Surely it would not have been possible without you all, folks, 306 00:24:11,960 --> 00:24:13,239 we are all one great unity, 307 00:24:13,240 --> 00:24:15,920 Therefore, Thank you and have fun tonight. 308 00:24:29,800 --> 00:24:31,440 I do not know about this year. 309 00:24:32,080 --> 00:24:34,949 Let's just pray that all right, for the safety of all, 310 00:24:35,120 --> 00:24:38,400 because everyone is anxious to continue. 311 00:24:40,240 --> 00:24:43,760 With the winter season with El Ni o arriving, 312 00:24:43,840 --> 00:24:47,880 there are faces that really Believe and want to surf 313 00:24:48,000 --> 00:24:50,160 in waves of 25 meters per year, 314 00:24:50,240 --> 00:24:53,560 and, the limit point, you know, the size of the wave that can surf, 315 00:24:54,240 --> 00:24:55,960 depends on the desire of each. 316 00:24:56,920 --> 00:24:58,680 It will always progress. 317 00:24:58,800 --> 00:25:00,800 For me, sit here and say: 318 00:25:01,000 --> 00:25:03,680 "No, in our generation, no one will get over it, " 319 00:25:03,920 --> 00:25:05,220 Stupidity. 320 00:25:06,280 --> 00:25:07,519 On the right day, 321 00:25:07,520 --> 00:25:09,319 with the right conditions, with the right security team. 322 00:25:09,320 --> 00:25:12,320 Probably see someone this year that would do the impossible. 323 00:25:14,200 --> 00:25:15,840 You can feel the tension in the air, 324 00:25:15,920 --> 00:25:19,400 but I can always understand how much fun they have. 325 00:25:19,600 --> 00:25:23,040 They prepare the day before, Wake up at daybreak ... 326 00:25:24,600 --> 00:25:27,800 JANUARY 4 327 00:25:27,880 --> 00:25:30,720 Prediction: 3.7m by 16.7 seconds Estimated Front Height: 14.5m 328 00:25:30,800 --> 00:25:33,840 The first high sea of ​​the year in Jaws It's always very exciting. 329 00:25:34,640 --> 00:25:37,422 Everyone is a little nervous and excited to see each other. 330 00:25:37,520 --> 00:25:40,120 It has that energy in the air that you can not reproduce. 331 00:25:40,640 --> 00:25:42,239 Almost as if we were entering 332 00:25:42,240 --> 00:25:44,559 in a gladiator battle every time we go there, 333 00:25:44,560 --> 00:25:46,680 Like, you do not know. what will happen 334 00:25:47,320 --> 00:25:48,319 AQUATIC SECURITY 335 00:25:48,320 --> 00:25:49,799 I was not in fact here this morning 336 00:25:49,800 --> 00:25:53,080 Then we slow everything down. instead of starting at six o'clock, 337 00:25:53,160 --> 00:25:56,720 we simply decided come back with things 338 00:25:56,800 --> 00:26:00,160 And let's not get tired of staying out here waiting for the waves. 339 00:26:01,360 --> 00:26:02,760 The winds come, 340 00:26:02,840 --> 00:26:05,399 but there is no wind now, the faster we get out of here 341 00:26:05,400 --> 00:26:06,700 the better it will be. 342 00:26:24,600 --> 00:26:28,480 The first thing you really feel the texture of the ocean. 343 00:26:29,040 --> 00:26:31,360 So you feel if there is wind or if the sea is agitated. 344 00:26:32,120 --> 00:26:34,880 There is a lot of refraction coming from the rocks. 345 00:26:35,800 --> 00:26:38,160 You feel the energy of the sea, 346 00:26:38,760 --> 00:26:41,720 and it's really when Things go right in the day. 347 00:26:41,880 --> 00:26:44,280 Ian is paddling. Ian is starting. 348 00:26:55,600 --> 00:26:56,759 It was a difficult one. 349 00:26:56,760 --> 00:26:58,240 It was very entertaining. 350 00:27:07,800 --> 00:27:09,360 Keep an eye out, here comes the sequence. 351 00:27:20,720 --> 00:27:22,640 Take the rope. Take the rope. 352 00:27:22,760 --> 00:27:24,060 All right? 353 00:27:26,200 --> 00:27:27,500 Right. or Greg. 354 00:27:32,480 --> 00:27:34,240 or Ian. 355 00:27:34,360 --> 00:27:35,920 Ian de p . 356 00:27:48,400 --> 00:27:50,480 I think I cut myself ugly. 357 00:27:50,680 --> 00:27:53,080 We're heading back to the boat. Ian cut his finger. 358 00:27:53,200 --> 00:27:54,500 Prepare the boat. 359 00:27:55,080 --> 00:27:56,558 -Do you think I can still surf? -Yes. 360 00:27:57,280 --> 00:27:58,760 Just wrap it around. Sew then. 361 00:27:59,080 --> 00:28:01,000 I had a small solution in the middle of the day. 362 00:28:01,080 --> 00:28:04,120 The back of the helm cut my finger 363 00:28:04,200 --> 00:28:05,760 practically to the bone. 364 00:28:05,880 --> 00:28:07,920 I made a quick bandage and returned to the sea, 365 00:28:08,000 --> 00:28:10,640 and I got another cool wave which was very unstable. 366 00:28:12,640 --> 00:28:14,205 I ended up taking a break to relax 367 00:28:14,320 --> 00:28:17,000 and the waves stayed strange soon after. 368 00:28:21,440 --> 00:28:24,309 That small dose of wind does the difference between day and night. 369 00:28:24,320 --> 00:28:27,160 See nothing and have salt water in the eyes ... 370 00:28:29,880 --> 00:28:31,920 Basically like jumped from a bridge 371 00:28:32,000 --> 00:28:33,680 without knowing what is down there. 372 00:28:37,520 --> 00:28:41,200 On a very good day in Jaws, You could go and get a wave. 373 00:28:41,280 --> 00:28:43,400 at seven, eight, nine o'clock. 374 00:28:46,040 --> 00:28:48,160 Finally we gathered the whole team, 375 00:28:48,240 --> 00:28:50,240 and I'll have my finger sewn tonight, 376 00:28:50,360 --> 00:28:53,920 make sure I did not break no tendencies or anything. 377 00:28:54,680 --> 00:28:58,280 I think it was a mean day today, but it was a good start. 378 00:28:59,200 --> 00:29:00,560 It's just the beginning. 379 00:29:02,840 --> 00:29:05,200 Stretch. Good. Close. 380 00:29:05,320 --> 00:29:06,279 Stretch. 381 00:29:06,280 --> 00:29:07,975 Good. Now go down. his hand completely. 382 00:29:08,520 --> 00:29:10,680 If there is a competition, a mari pica, 383 00:29:10,760 --> 00:29:12,839 And you need to surf tomorrow, I could protect him. 384 00:29:12,840 --> 00:29:15,440 It is better to stay out of the water for a few days. 385 00:29:15,560 --> 00:29:17,640 Yeah, I'm aiming for the 10th. 386 00:29:17,720 --> 00:29:20,480 -Right. -Then, 6 days would be my goal. 387 00:29:25,400 --> 00:29:28,240 The whole history of wave surfing giants very interesting. 388 00:29:28,640 --> 00:29:30,400 You know, these guys are pioneers. 389 00:29:30,600 --> 00:29:33,440 They will l without strings and without safety equipment. 390 00:29:34,080 --> 00:29:38,680 There has always been this idea that anything over ten meters 391 00:29:38,760 --> 00:29:41,280 it starts to get very dangerous for surfing, 392 00:29:41,360 --> 00:29:43,480 this impossible limit of size. 393 00:29:43,560 --> 00:29:46,880 And then there was the introduction of this type of surfing with trailer. 394 00:29:47,080 --> 00:29:49,036 Basically, you can climb on a board, 395 00:29:49,080 --> 00:29:50,775 could be placed in a great wave. 396 00:29:51,240 --> 00:29:54,400 It can surf ten or 15 waves of this type 397 00:29:54,480 --> 00:29:57,160 because you can position much more. 398 00:29:57,600 --> 00:30:00,079 You have a machine that can traveling at 65 kilometers per hour, 399 00:30:00,080 --> 00:30:02,880 and if it has a wave of 15 meters in that direction, go and get it. 400 00:30:05,400 --> 00:30:08,880 The guys would not surf all year, they would come to take the 15-meter ones. 401 00:30:08,960 --> 00:30:10,280 insane. 402 00:30:11,840 --> 00:30:14,520 You take any ordinary person to surfing paddling in Jaws, 403 00:30:14,920 --> 00:30:16,720 can not get a wave, and if caught, 404 00:30:16,800 --> 00:30:18,640 will be totally annihilated. 405 00:30:28,920 --> 00:30:34,000 The revolution of towing surf in the showed that it was possible to survive 406 00:30:34,080 --> 00:30:36,440 to much larger waves than we imagined. 407 00:30:42,760 --> 00:30:44,760 The tow surfing helped establish 408 00:30:44,960 --> 00:30:47,640 the jet ski as a security tool 409 00:30:47,720 --> 00:30:49,640 and for everything you do in the ocean. 410 00:30:51,320 --> 00:30:56,840 It was really the step for the next one. evolution of giant wave surfing. 411 00:30:58,040 --> 00:31:00,680 I used to compete paddling with the boards, 412 00:31:00,760 --> 00:31:03,000 and had the idea that I could do 413 00:31:03,200 --> 00:31:04,920 these boards be faster. 414 00:31:06,080 --> 00:31:10,480 That's when Ian, Greg and some other guys 415 00:31:10,600 --> 00:31:12,360 they began to row these things. 416 00:31:14,320 --> 00:31:17,440 We make this conscious decision to stop with the trailer surfing 417 00:31:17,640 --> 00:31:19,120 and return to rowing. 418 00:31:24,520 --> 00:31:27,520 All the speed at which the wave travels when it reaches 15 meters 419 00:31:27,600 --> 00:31:30,960 Too fast for drawing standard board Everything needs to change. 420 00:31:32,480 --> 00:31:34,088 Are they ready? I'm not sure. 421 00:31:34,160 --> 00:31:36,840 No one has done this before, then no one knows. 422 00:31:38,480 --> 00:31:41,640 Chris Christenson, he has the details 423 00:31:41,720 --> 00:31:44,560 I do not think any other plank designer has. 424 00:31:45,280 --> 00:31:48,760 So I plan to find something Give us a little more 425 00:31:48,840 --> 00:31:50,480 and that every time I get sick, 426 00:31:50,560 --> 00:31:53,120 or because I went down the wave too fast. 427 00:31:53,200 --> 00:31:54,879 After every big mar that he surfs, 428 00:31:54,880 --> 00:31:56,749 we talked to each other, shortly thereafter. 429 00:31:56,800 --> 00:31:59,000 Have this trail more parallel up there 430 00:31:59,080 --> 00:32:01,340 will allow plank to work better at the base of the wave, 431 00:32:01,360 --> 00:32:04,440 we will allow you to paddle faster with shoulders farther apart 432 00:32:04,520 --> 00:32:07,560 and have a larger syrup, will give you more maneuverability. 433 00:32:10,680 --> 00:32:13,880 If they can trust me before entering the water, 434 00:32:13,960 --> 00:32:16,240 this leaves them at an advantage in the game. 435 00:32:22,280 --> 00:32:24,720 JANUARY, 10 436 00:32:26,160 --> 00:32:27,839 Preview 3.9m in 14.7 seconds Estimated Front Height: 13m 437 00:32:27,840 --> 00:32:29,480 The forecast looks very good, 438 00:32:29,600 --> 00:32:31,160 probably the best of the year. 439 00:32:31,280 --> 00:32:33,119 Do you think it's the size What are Ian looking for? 440 00:32:33,120 --> 00:32:35,800 No, Ian is looking for for as long as possible. 441 00:32:37,600 --> 00:32:40,240 It just ... looks like the sea is not here yet 442 00:32:40,360 --> 00:32:43,560 I do not know, markers simply they are not obvious. 443 00:32:44,000 --> 00:32:47,000 I think we're just going to start now and continue with our plan 444 00:32:47,080 --> 00:32:48,380 and go to l at first light, 445 00:32:48,400 --> 00:32:50,520 hoping it gets better throughout the morning. 446 00:32:57,240 --> 00:32:59,280 The best conditions till now. 447 00:33:02,560 --> 00:33:05,400 The fact of the forecast we have indicated light winds 448 00:33:05,480 --> 00:33:08,640 aroused much more interest of surfers around the world. 449 00:33:21,320 --> 00:33:23,720 Concentration of people in the morning was lighter, 450 00:33:23,840 --> 00:33:26,760 so you could stand and begin to line up with the waves 451 00:33:26,840 --> 00:33:29,480 any way he wanted, where he wanted to pick them up. 452 00:33:39,000 --> 00:33:42,600 I think the board of a guy passed well above me at the end of the tube. 453 00:33:53,240 --> 00:33:55,400 And so, according to more people arrive, 454 00:33:55,480 --> 00:33:57,320 the place you take it the waves dictation, 455 00:33:57,520 --> 00:33:59,240 based on where he's stuck in the crowd. 456 00:34:01,960 --> 00:34:04,879 You know, when you're turning around, trying to paddle for a giant wave, 457 00:34:04,880 --> 00:34:06,880 and you have people on your left, and on the right, 458 00:34:06,915 --> 00:34:08,039 positioning itself, calling ... 459 00:34:08,040 --> 00:34:10,439 The press is there. H helicopters flying everywhere, 460 00:34:10,440 --> 00:34:12,720 drones buzzing in your head, 461 00:34:12,800 --> 00:34:15,640 boats passing one upon the other, It's just chaos. 462 00:34:17,400 --> 00:34:19,200 I surfed in Jaws for 15 years, 463 00:34:19,280 --> 00:34:21,760 and I will not go there anymore because it's just a crazy zone. 464 00:34:21,880 --> 00:34:23,400 It's not fun, it's very dangerous. 465 00:34:24,560 --> 00:34:27,255 The last thing I want to do To hurt someone with the board. 466 00:34:29,840 --> 00:34:31,960 When you make mistakes. 467 00:34:32,040 --> 00:34:35,400 You know, you're surfing accordingly. with the crowd, not with what he wants. 468 00:34:43,280 --> 00:34:46,360 When you have 50 people l , I definitely do not feel comfortable 469 00:34:46,440 --> 00:34:48,600 Ian, on the other hand, It seems to go well. 470 00:35:41,360 --> 00:35:43,480 Let's get a second wave. 471 00:36:13,000 --> 00:36:17,040 To stay with my brother in the water in Jaws It's something I can not even explain. 472 00:36:17,800 --> 00:36:20,040 probably one of the moments more special. 473 00:36:20,240 --> 00:36:23,000 There is nothing that we can not be, It is the best feeling in the world. 474 00:36:23,600 --> 00:36:26,840 On most days, we take turns, making the security of each other, 475 00:36:26,960 --> 00:36:29,080 and this gives us all a chance to surf. 476 00:36:59,000 --> 00:37:02,200 Only three or four very good sequences came today, 477 00:37:02,280 --> 00:37:04,480 in a period of eight to ten hours. 478 00:37:05,640 --> 00:37:08,080 The climate and all things are here, but the sea. 479 00:37:08,720 --> 00:37:10,080 The waves are very small. 480 00:37:10,360 --> 00:37:12,880 I will be impressed if they really hit it. 481 00:37:18,880 --> 00:37:21,720 A great contribution for evolution 482 00:37:21,920 --> 00:37:23,640 of the sport, in fact, the security. 483 00:37:24,120 --> 00:37:27,520 And the most notable is the inflatable clothing. that we have developed. 484 00:37:27,600 --> 00:37:29,840 I had the idea of inflatable bathing suit 485 00:37:29,920 --> 00:37:31,919 for an experiment of near death in the Mavericks. 486 00:37:31,920 --> 00:37:35,960 December 2010 487 00:37:37,840 --> 00:37:40,440 I was getting old, He was married, having children, 488 00:37:40,640 --> 00:37:43,248 I just felt it was too dangerous to be worth it. 489 00:37:44,240 --> 00:37:47,840 It was something that was necessary, because the sport has reached a level 490 00:37:47,920 --> 00:37:49,960 in which we were losing people. 491 00:37:50,040 --> 00:37:51,840 You know, that was not acceptable. 492 00:37:54,040 --> 00:37:56,160 When you fall, you pull a rope, 493 00:37:56,240 --> 00:37:58,880 the costume inflates and takes you to the surface. 494 00:37:59,480 --> 00:38:00,639 You will not think: 495 00:38:00,640 --> 00:38:02,439 "You know what? I'm sure. because I have the suit. " 496 00:38:02,440 --> 00:38:04,200 You do not want to have that attitude. 497 00:38:05,600 --> 00:38:08,279 What happens when you are in a situation where your dress is active? 498 00:38:08,280 --> 00:38:10,320 Or in a situation in which his costume does not activate? 499 00:38:12,120 --> 00:38:13,480 So, because of the suit, 500 00:38:13,720 --> 00:38:17,840 You have many more people than you. they would be there if it were not for him. 501 00:38:18,320 --> 00:38:22,120 People, in certain places, they became uncontrollable, therefore. 502 00:38:22,280 --> 00:38:23,800 This is the paradox, of course. 503 00:38:33,440 --> 00:38:36,280 It saved lives, but in a way, 504 00:38:36,360 --> 00:38:38,520 I feel it put at risk lives of people 505 00:38:38,600 --> 00:38:40,920 that they would not be there, without the suit. 506 00:38:43,440 --> 00:38:45,720 Are you going surfing in? Any place in the world, 507 00:38:45,800 --> 00:38:47,799 must have a safety plan and a second reservation, 508 00:38:47,800 --> 00:38:49,104 and another plan after that. 509 00:38:50,040 --> 00:38:53,120 Most people think that the suit is the safety plan. 510 00:38:53,320 --> 00:38:56,240 And they assume that the I will rescue them. 511 00:38:58,960 --> 00:39:01,560 Certainly it was morally difficult not start, 512 00:39:01,640 --> 00:39:03,161 when it began to get very full. 513 00:39:04,280 --> 00:39:06,240 I could never live knowing 514 00:39:06,320 --> 00:39:08,519 What was I supposed to be? l working with this group, 515 00:39:08,520 --> 00:39:10,000 which I consider my family, 516 00:39:10,080 --> 00:39:13,560 and that something happened because I was not taking care of them, 517 00:39:13,680 --> 00:39:15,280 I was taking care of someone else 518 00:39:15,360 --> 00:39:17,316 that had nothing to do with our operation. 519 00:39:18,920 --> 00:39:21,559 I do not think it's the right of somebody say what can or can not, 520 00:39:21,560 --> 00:39:26,240 but when you cross that line of not following the safety protocol, 521 00:39:26,320 --> 00:39:28,233 how to be able to care first of all, 522 00:39:28,400 --> 00:39:29,878 You kind of crossed the line. 523 00:39:29,880 --> 00:39:32,760 and need to rethink about what he's doing there. 524 00:39:34,400 --> 00:39:36,640 If you look at the inflatable costume, 525 00:39:37,000 --> 00:39:40,680 yes, it's a nightmare, on certain days, in certain waves ... 526 00:39:41,560 --> 00:39:45,640 but the sport simply became incredible because of it. 527 00:39:55,760 --> 00:39:59,120 In the fifteenth, we had a sea which was expected to be 528 00:39:59,200 --> 00:40:01,679 bigger than anything which we had all winter, 529 00:40:01,680 --> 00:40:03,200 maybe in my life. 530 00:40:04,880 --> 00:40:09,280 So, you're lining up to be a monumental day for the paddled surf. 531 00:40:09,360 --> 00:40:13,160 Prediction 5.5m in 18.2 seconds Estimated Frontal Height: 22.5m 532 00:40:13,440 --> 00:40:14,760 Beautiful setting. 533 00:40:14,840 --> 00:40:17,720 15th of January 534 00:40:18,040 --> 00:40:20,280 Bring towing boards was part of the discussion, 535 00:40:20,360 --> 00:40:24,320 but I'm stubbornly trying to row. 536 00:40:24,400 --> 00:40:26,199 I think we are all a little scared, 537 00:40:26,200 --> 00:40:29,320 it's kind of worried with how great it will be today, 538 00:40:29,400 --> 00:40:31,660 but we hope it is, in some way, controllable. 539 00:40:34,760 --> 00:40:36,368 In fact, I'm very nervous now 540 00:40:36,440 --> 00:40:37,740 for having to surf there. 541 00:40:37,760 --> 00:40:40,040 I do not know, I have this strange feeling. 542 00:40:41,320 --> 00:40:44,000 Certainly shaken. No one day to show feelings ... 543 00:40:45,280 --> 00:40:47,062 I'm a little out of control, certainly. 544 00:40:47,720 --> 00:40:49,600 Greg was basically sick all the time. 545 00:40:49,720 --> 00:40:52,560 He could not surf. Therefore, Greg ended up doing the security. 546 00:40:53,440 --> 00:40:56,160 It's very difficult to do well. on a day like this. 547 00:40:56,400 --> 00:40:59,800 You know how much you waited for a day like this, 548 00:40:59,880 --> 00:41:01,180 to get surf. 549 00:41:03,040 --> 00:41:06,720 Everything we look for, dropping big waves, 550 00:41:06,800 --> 00:41:08,147 was pointing to this day. 551 00:41:10,800 --> 00:41:13,720 I had never seen Jaws burst that way in my life. 552 00:41:14,600 --> 00:41:16,200 Two hours, we're leaving. 553 00:41:17,000 --> 00:41:18,300 Watch. 554 00:41:28,480 --> 00:41:32,840 As if you were rehearsing to get the rhythm, 555 00:41:32,920 --> 00:41:35,240 because the wave moves very fast 556 00:41:35,320 --> 00:41:37,640 and there is a lot of water hitting his face. 557 00:41:39,000 --> 00:41:42,440 A perfect example of: "Be careful what you want". 558 00:41:59,560 --> 00:42:00,860 Heating! 559 00:42:33,040 --> 00:42:34,340 Shane, come on up! 560 00:42:34,360 --> 00:42:35,660 Shane. 561 00:42:36,200 --> 00:42:39,680 Yes, Shane. It was amazing. 562 00:44:04,640 --> 00:44:06,360 You caught an incredible wave, did not you? 563 00:44:08,440 --> 00:44:11,320 It just felt as if the ocean was under control. 564 00:44:14,000 --> 00:44:15,719 It was not like a normal day, where you can 565 00:44:15,720 --> 00:44:17,920 have fun, like, everyone was ... 566 00:44:39,080 --> 00:44:40,319 Come on, come on. 567 00:44:40,320 --> 00:44:41,479 Come on, come on. 568 00:44:41,480 --> 00:44:42,780 Are you okay? -My neck. 569 00:44:42,880 --> 00:44:44,180 "What?" -My neck. 570 00:44:44,840 --> 00:44:46,140 Here Shaun Walsh. 571 00:44:46,440 --> 00:44:48,440 DK has a possible injury in the cervical area. 572 00:44:49,600 --> 00:44:51,730 I'm tingling a lot and my neck is sore. 573 00:44:52,680 --> 00:44:54,000 Take me with Shaun. 574 00:44:57,120 --> 00:44:59,320 I could look into everyone's eyes, 575 00:44:59,400 --> 00:45:02,680 and say, "My God, that was what happened in Cortes ". 576 00:45:03,200 --> 00:45:05,520 It was the reverse situation. 577 00:45:05,960 --> 00:45:07,655 DK was l , he saved Greg's life, 578 00:45:07,840 --> 00:45:09,560 and now, Greg is doing what he can. 579 00:45:11,840 --> 00:45:13,319 It was just kind of surreal. 580 00:45:13,320 --> 00:45:15,360 Like, my heart sank, you know? 581 00:45:15,480 --> 00:45:18,001 I did not know how serious it was, or what was happening. 582 00:45:19,120 --> 00:45:21,040 DK, do you want to call the emergency? 583 00:45:21,120 --> 00:45:22,560 I need an ambulance. 584 00:45:22,760 --> 00:45:24,060 Do not call Mom. 585 00:45:25,560 --> 00:45:28,800 No matter how good the waves are, This is the priority, it does not matter. 586 00:45:29,040 --> 00:45:30,960 We took it with great security. 587 00:45:31,280 --> 00:45:35,360 The goal is to simply take it to a higher level of care. 588 00:45:35,800 --> 00:45:38,560 When it happens, There is not much we can do. 589 00:45:39,000 --> 00:45:41,320 Shaun, he and Luke, everybody trying to go with me, 590 00:45:41,400 --> 00:45:44,182 but looking at how good the waves were, wanted them to stay. 591 00:45:44,200 --> 00:45:46,640 Once in life the conditions of the sea stay like this. 592 00:45:52,160 --> 00:45:54,640 We stayed out and this has turned into 593 00:45:54,840 --> 00:45:57,520 a very important day of my life. 594 00:46:35,480 --> 00:46:38,080 I just took a wave in the face. 595 00:46:38,160 --> 00:46:40,480 and I got no advantage for a while. 596 00:46:57,160 --> 00:46:58,680 I saw him enter this wave, 597 00:46:58,760 --> 00:47:01,455 and well when I saw him stand by, I thought, "He's in too much." 598 00:47:01,520 --> 00:47:05,280 And, you know, when you're there, Sometimes you have to take the risk. 599 00:47:32,200 --> 00:47:35,160 And he was from p all the time in which the wave descended. 600 00:47:35,280 --> 00:47:36,800 I thought he was going to jump. 601 00:48:15,800 --> 00:48:18,119 You know what happened, and some of the surfer here today, 602 00:48:18,120 --> 00:48:20,240 You know, history was made, certainly. 603 00:48:21,720 --> 00:48:25,040 Yes, today was amazing, but as soon as I caught that wave, 604 00:48:25,160 --> 00:48:27,840 reality hit and all that I could think, it was in DK. 605 00:48:46,200 --> 00:48:48,560 Nothing was broken, nothing fractured. 606 00:48:48,640 --> 00:48:50,880 All exams and resonances were good. 607 00:48:51,480 --> 00:48:54,200 Now, for the next one, I have to wear this cervical collar, 608 00:48:55,320 --> 00:49:00,040 It's kind of a lie for a while. and wait for my body to recover. 609 00:49:05,600 --> 00:49:07,760 It has been an intense January. 610 00:49:08,240 --> 00:49:12,760 A week ago, we had one of the biggest days I've ever seen 611 00:49:12,840 --> 00:49:15,480 with clean winds, in my whole life here. 612 00:49:15,880 --> 00:49:19,280 I just felt that I never we will see all that 613 00:49:19,360 --> 00:49:20,660 happen again, 614 00:49:20,680 --> 00:49:23,400 until we get really old, cheering on a cliff. 615 00:49:24,440 --> 00:49:28,240 And so, a great system appeared in the middle of the Pacific, 616 00:49:28,320 --> 00:49:29,960 and here we are. 617 00:49:30,040 --> 00:49:31,440 JANUARY 28 618 00:49:31,920 --> 00:49:33,199 4.5m forecast in 20 seconds Estimated Front Height: 20m 619 00:49:33,200 --> 00:49:35,800 Just have another chance with conditions like this 620 00:49:35,880 --> 00:49:41,440 ... kind of made me take a step behind and to value a little more 621 00:49:41,520 --> 00:49:43,400 by the seas we are having now. 622 00:49:45,520 --> 00:49:48,389 I thought my winter had finished after leaving the hospital, 623 00:49:48,400 --> 00:49:50,560 Then I was discharged of doctors in Los Angeles. 624 00:49:50,640 --> 00:49:52,161 He said that everything was in place. 625 00:49:52,280 --> 00:49:55,160 I'm very grateful. I never thought that this would happen. 626 00:49:56,960 --> 00:50:00,720 And it was horrible for him not to be able to surf, but he , without any doubts, 627 00:50:00,800 --> 00:50:03,000 the best face on the jet ski, doing the security. 628 00:50:03,120 --> 00:50:06,760 So I think of everything, the group feels much more comfortable and confident, 629 00:50:06,840 --> 00:50:08,360 just by having it in the water. 630 00:50:08,640 --> 00:50:10,320 Right, it's Greg. 631 00:50:26,960 --> 00:50:29,090 Pay attention to Greg, boys. Pay attention. 632 00:50:29,120 --> 00:50:30,420 I caught him. 633 00:50:31,600 --> 00:50:32,900 Vit ria. 634 00:50:33,480 --> 00:50:37,360 In this sport, you will definitely wants to see his friends do well. 635 00:50:37,480 --> 00:50:39,520 For Greg, he caught a wave A few years ago ... 636 00:50:39,600 --> 00:50:40,519 October 2012 637 00:50:40,520 --> 00:50:43,080 ... which was the best tube I already got Jaws. 638 00:50:47,920 --> 00:50:51,760 And as he crossed, he fell, flying out of the tube. 639 00:50:56,000 --> 00:50:58,760 He called it a trip. on the finish line. 640 00:51:00,760 --> 00:51:02,720 You simply see how much time and energy 641 00:51:02,800 --> 00:51:05,320 goes in each of these waves they are surfing 642 00:51:05,440 --> 00:51:08,720 and how long does it take to get a day like this, 643 00:51:08,920 --> 00:51:12,360 and it was really cool to see everything working for Greg today. 644 00:51:29,880 --> 00:51:33,360 He took a tube and left. You could almost see 645 00:51:33,480 --> 00:51:36,960 all energy and work who were employed in that wave, 646 00:51:37,040 --> 00:51:38,400 kind, coming out of it. 647 00:51:38,560 --> 00:51:39,860 Good, Greg! 648 00:51:41,720 --> 00:51:44,040 We have Dorian surfing. 649 00:52:18,240 --> 00:52:19,920 Part of what Jaws , type, 650 00:52:20,160 --> 00:52:22,640 You surf for six hours, 651 00:52:22,840 --> 00:52:25,520 you can have only one good opportunity on a wave. 652 00:52:42,840 --> 00:52:47,600 About four hours later, I got one of the best waves I've had. 653 00:53:51,240 --> 00:53:53,040 Everything finally fell into place. 654 00:53:53,240 --> 00:53:57,560 Instead of focusing on the goal to surf the biggest wave of his life, 655 00:53:57,920 --> 00:54:00,000 it is more about giving one step back 656 00:54:00,080 --> 00:54:01,800 and enjoy all the little things 657 00:54:02,000 --> 00:54:03,720 who took you there, and live these days. 658 00:54:05,880 --> 00:54:08,160 The last El Ni o was in 1998. 659 00:54:08,680 --> 00:54:11,280 There were only four El Ni os for real, in 40 years. 660 00:54:12,040 --> 00:54:13,880 The best big waves I've ever seen. 661 00:54:14,000 --> 00:54:16,680 I have surfed big waves It's 25 years. 662 00:54:19,840 --> 00:54:23,840 Ian chose a path that really serves it. 663 00:54:24,040 --> 00:54:27,680 I'm just blessed as a father. 664 00:54:34,280 --> 00:54:38,760 Part of surfing simply Look at what comes next. 665 00:54:40,680 --> 00:54:41,980 It's true what they say. 666 00:54:42,040 --> 00:54:45,200 The greater the adversity, the greater the conquest. 667 00:54:45,520 --> 00:54:48,720 And for me, it does not matter the size of the waves, 668 00:54:48,880 --> 00:54:50,640 or stepping into the unknown, 669 00:54:51,000 --> 00:54:52,300 Where do I want to be? 53225

Can't find what you're looking for?
Get subtitles in any language from opensubtitles.com, and translate them here.