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SOUTHERN PACIFIC
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At this age and age,
You need to go a little while.
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00:01:03,120 --> 00:01:05,880
or at least wish
take a few more steps
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00:01:06,000 --> 00:01:08,250
that any other person
is willing to give
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00:01:09,251 --> 00:01:13,251
Subpack and sync
by DanDee
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00:02:15,680 --> 00:02:17,040
Walsh wins Xcel Pro
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Surfer
AS 100 BEST WAVES
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THE END OF THE MACHINE
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That's it, boys.
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Long flight.
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Somewhat relaxing.
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Take that tip.
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00:03:21,200 --> 00:03:24,800
We kind of get caught up in the weather
and we missed the best day of March.
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00:03:26,360 --> 00:03:28,800
Part of what we do
like surfers,
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You screw up.
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Not every trip we make
we have perfect surfing,
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00:03:35,800 --> 00:03:37,480
and it always works out.
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00:03:37,720 --> 00:03:39,111
It just does not work that way.
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00:03:41,800 --> 00:03:43,600
Now we are at the end of summer,
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00:03:43,680 --> 00:03:47,440
and now my focus is shifting
for the northern hemisphere
21
00:03:47,560 --> 00:03:49,280
and the preparation for Hawaii.
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00:03:50,520 --> 00:03:51,479
When they foresee a strong El Ni o,
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Brother
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HOOKIPA BEACH
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... everyone gets excited.
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O El Ni o, basically like
an unusual time pattern.
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The Pacific Ocean is
hotter than normal
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SURFER
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... and allows us to pick up
many big waves.
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I really started getting serious.
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00:04:04,320 --> 00:04:06,400
when Ian sat with me
and Shaun one day
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00:04:06,480 --> 00:04:08,039
and said, "Be prepared, this may be
the craziest winter of their lives. "
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00:04:08,040 --> 00:04:09,340
Brother
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The last El Ni o was in 1998.
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It was an incredible winter.
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JANUARY 1998
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There were many sessions
of giant waves in Jaws.
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00:04:18,800 --> 00:04:21,360
Extreme surfing, extreme conditions,
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00:04:21,440 --> 00:04:22,359
simply day after day,
of perfection.
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PROJECTOR OF PLANTS AND TRAINER
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Taylor Knox caught a wave in Mexico,
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00:04:26,360 --> 00:04:28,200
who stood the test of time.
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A really strong El Ni o
happens so rarely,
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what a great opportunity
to see what the limit is,
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Until where the surf goes.
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00:04:42,480 --> 00:04:43,839
I think you will see
the biggest waves being surfed ...
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SURFER
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... in the history of our sport.
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00:04:48,680 --> 00:04:51,720
Jaws basically has
the largest wave in the world.
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00:04:53,200 --> 00:04:54,720
And Ian lives straight away.
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So he's in a
very unusual position.
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00:05:01,600 --> 00:05:02,759
SURFER
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00:05:02,760 --> 00:05:05,455
If Jaws is rolling, the world of
Surfing descends on your shoulders.
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00:05:07,800 --> 00:05:10,480
Are you ready to
good waves of one to two meters,
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00:05:10,560 --> 00:05:12,120
but it's only about 18 meters.
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00:05:13,640 --> 00:05:15,840
And something you can surf,
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You know, you can paddle in there.
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00:05:25,960 --> 00:05:27,880
The way that Ian and these guys
are surfing
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they are surfing like they are
waves of two meters.
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00:05:36,640 --> 00:05:38,279
You have to laugh.
It's difficult to understand, you know.
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SURFER
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There is almost no other place
which offered this intensity.
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00:05:50,800 --> 00:05:54,400
A wave can drag you
tens of meters under the water.
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With a Violence
that you can not
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00:06:00,920 --> 00:06:02,640
control their arms,
you hit yourself,
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00:06:02,840 --> 00:06:04,840
He really thinks he's going to die.
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00:06:11,480 --> 00:06:14,600
Fight and try to force
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00:06:15,360 --> 00:06:18,800
can burn more oxygen
than you can.
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00:06:27,560 --> 00:06:29,280
a calculated risk that you assume,
70
00:06:29,360 --> 00:06:31,280
and you manage and
minimizes risks
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00:06:31,480 --> 00:06:33,200
with your physical conditioning
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00:06:33,760 --> 00:06:35,320
and mentally prepared.
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00:06:41,160 --> 00:06:42,460
325, Ian.
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00:06:42,680 --> 00:06:44,600
A good ride, good work ...
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and stop!
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Good test.
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00:06:53,920 --> 00:06:55,920
Ian is one of our
more dedicated athletes.
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00:06:56,000 --> 00:06:58,240
In fact, throughout the curriculum,
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00:06:58,320 --> 00:07:00,239
he probably participated
more training ...
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00:07:00,240 --> 00:07:01,359
HIGH PERFORMANCE COACH
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00:07:01,360 --> 00:07:02,960
... that any other
if I remember.
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You go from things that are
very practical, which we call
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00:07:07,640 --> 00:07:08,639
training.
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00:07:08,640 --> 00:07:10,560
All these things,
you can see
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00:07:10,760 --> 00:07:12,480
directly the relationship
with better surfing.
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00:07:12,960 --> 00:07:16,400
The interesting thing is that Ian
also pioneered the boundaries.
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00:07:16,480 --> 00:07:19,200
He participated in
training where we challenge you,
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00:07:19,400 --> 00:07:20,760
and in this environment,
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00:07:20,840 --> 00:07:23,119
I think we see evolution
in training for big waves,
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00:07:23,120 --> 00:07:25,480
in this idea of triumph under pressure.
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00:07:25,560 --> 00:07:28,160
Fifteen seconds. Do you want to go?
to the next stage. Let's go!
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00:07:31,720 --> 00:07:34,600
- You got it! Let's go!
-Good work, my friend.
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00:07:34,680 --> 00:07:36,560
He rehearses his techniques
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00:07:36,640 --> 00:07:39,160
in the sense of making the right decision
on the right time,
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00:07:39,240 --> 00:07:40,848
when the parameters are very high.
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00:07:43,960 --> 00:07:46,280
If they get caught
by a wave of 20 meters,
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00:07:46,360 --> 00:07:48,159
need to have
all the skills and techniques
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00:07:48,160 --> 00:07:49,159
FREE DIVING COACH
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00:07:49,160 --> 00:07:52,440
to hold the breath in a
emergency that can last a minute,
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00:07:55,160 --> 00:07:56,880
and you need to do this
several times,
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00:07:56,960 --> 00:07:59,880
with intervals of only 15 seconds.
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00:08:01,640 --> 00:08:03,160
Your violent shark.
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00:08:04,880 --> 00:08:07,080
The effort by which
we make them pass the equivalent
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00:08:07,160 --> 00:08:10,400
of any highly
trained, with whom we already work.
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00:08:11,400 --> 00:08:13,680
You just know that I'm
giving me the maximum
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00:08:13,760 --> 00:08:16,480
to stay the most
comfortable possible
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00:08:16,560 --> 00:08:19,960
in the less comfortable environment
which I can imagine.
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00:08:21,000 --> 00:08:23,360
He is doing
dives of 50 meters,
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00:08:23,560 --> 00:08:25,800
apneia of almost five minutes.
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00:08:27,680 --> 00:08:30,600
Need to be prepared
to the maximum level,
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00:08:30,720 --> 00:08:32,280
otherwise,
will find,
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00:08:32,480 --> 00:08:35,160
that wave that
can not support.
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00:08:38,000 --> 00:08:39,039
DECEMBER 2012
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CORTES BANK
180 KM WEST OF SAN DIEGO
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00:08:40,640 --> 00:08:42,120
From experience,
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00:08:42,760 --> 00:08:44,800
DK saved my life, no doubt.
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00:08:46,160 --> 00:08:48,320
I drowned in Cortes Bank.
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00:08:54,400 --> 00:08:55,700
The ambulance is on its way.
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00:09:02,360 --> 00:09:03,660
What happened?
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00:09:04,520 --> 00:09:06,960
You were pulled down.
and simply stayed ...
121
00:09:08,080 --> 00:09:10,949
The board hit you in the head,
on the belly or somewhere else?
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00:09:11,160 --> 00:09:13,400
If it was not for DK be l ...
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00:09:14,160 --> 00:09:15,319
PLYWOOD PROJECTOR
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00:09:15,320 --> 00:09:17,580
... you know, it's the big reason
Greg's still alive.
125
00:09:20,360 --> 00:09:21,660
If it were not for him,
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00:09:21,680 --> 00:09:23,245
heroically,
abandoning jet ski to
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00:09:23,360 --> 00:09:25,080
hundreds of kilometers,
in the middle of the sea,
128
00:09:25,160 --> 00:09:26,760
to take my body without life,
129
00:09:26,840 --> 00:09:30,800
and then hold me and cross
two more or three big waves ...
130
00:09:31,400 --> 00:09:34,720
You will not find any other
rescue team like this in the world.
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Saving someone's life,
especially
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of someone like him, so close,
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00:09:39,920 --> 00:09:43,240
really motivated me
to do what we do today.
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00:09:45,360 --> 00:09:47,319
I and my brothers,
we are all a little younger
135
00:09:47,320 --> 00:09:49,920
but at home we moved,
taking care of each other.
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00:09:50,320 --> 00:09:52,640
And that's because
of Ian and his brothers.
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00:09:53,840 --> 00:09:56,040
We used to call them
of "the squirrels".
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00:09:56,360 --> 00:09:59,080
Ian was the knight
and they, their little helpers ...
139
00:09:59,240 --> 00:10:00,239
DAD
140
00:10:00,240 --> 00:10:01,540
... and it was very good.
141
00:10:02,840 --> 00:10:05,560
If Shaun and DK are there,
the twins, he's fine.
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00:10:05,640 --> 00:10:07,726
Like, they'll get him,
no matter what happened
143
00:10:07,960 --> 00:10:08,839
Mother
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00:10:08,840 --> 00:10:10,079
Make things easier.
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00:10:10,080 --> 00:10:12,280
It's never easy, but it makes it easier.
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00:10:17,160 --> 00:10:20,600
What a crazy combination,
the four brothers.
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00:10:20,840 --> 00:10:22,160
They are a team.
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00:10:23,080 --> 00:10:25,640
He is the oldest brother,
we all follow in his footsteps.
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00:10:25,720 --> 00:10:27,020
If he were a degenerate,
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00:10:27,040 --> 00:10:28,039
Brother
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00:10:28,040 --> 00:10:29,919
we would probably have followed
by this way,
152
00:10:29,920 --> 00:10:32,840
but he was a student
exemplary in the collegiate.
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00:10:35,480 --> 00:10:38,800
My love and passion for big waves.
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I would not be what, without my brothers.
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00:10:42,360 --> 00:10:43,660
It just would not work.
156
00:10:48,120 --> 00:10:50,440
It seemed that even before
of winter to begin,
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00:10:50,520 --> 00:10:52,160
he was working hard.
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00:10:55,520 --> 00:10:57,606
He kind of knew
that there was an anticipation there,
159
00:10:57,680 --> 00:10:59,640
since El Ni o was drawing
160
00:10:59,720 --> 00:11:01,285
and the climate began to settle.
161
00:11:01,400 --> 00:11:05,040
He is one of the few elite athletes
in our sport.
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00:11:05,960 --> 00:11:08,920
And the twins, they kind of
look different.
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00:11:09,160 --> 00:11:12,680
They are like their own
natural training, I would say so.
164
00:11:14,120 --> 00:11:15,728
really connect with yourself
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00:11:15,800 --> 00:11:18,720
and remain physically active,
no matter what you do.
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00:11:23,120 --> 00:11:26,360
Beyond all science
and the community supporting
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00:11:26,440 --> 00:11:28,483
and trying to help him
to improve in large waves,
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00:11:28,760 --> 00:11:32,520
I think it's just important
he surfed, for the sake of surfing.
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00:11:34,600 --> 00:11:37,880
There is no competition, the waves
They're as big as they can be ...
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00:11:38,880 --> 00:11:41,000
connect with your friends and enjoy,
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00:11:41,120 --> 00:11:43,840
and that is an important part
of this program.
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00:11:48,480 --> 00:11:50,088
My favorite type
surfer
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00:11:50,240 --> 00:11:51,960
who gets to have fun with everything.
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If the wave of one meter or 25,
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00:11:54,240 --> 00:11:56,480
he will still be able
to go there and have fun.
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00:11:56,760 --> 00:11:59,803
Guys like Ian are the guys in
which really inspires me, for this.
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00:16:53,760 --> 00:16:56,960
Basically, in each high seas,
you have a decision to make,
178
00:16:57,040 --> 00:17:00,080
because there will be a competition
that you need to worry about
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00:17:00,160 --> 00:17:04,400
or if you are going to surf the waves that
really want, that the big bid.
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00:17:06,320 --> 00:17:07,620
When are you leaving?
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00:17:07,680 --> 00:17:10,880
I go out tomorrow night,
probably, to Oahu,
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00:17:10,960 --> 00:17:12,260
for the competition.
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00:17:12,720 --> 00:17:16,200
I would like to go to Jaws,
s to deferrujar.
184
00:17:17,160 --> 00:17:18,920
How do you account for everything here?
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00:17:19,000 --> 00:17:19,959
So much.
186
00:17:19,960 --> 00:17:22,360
What you mean?
You have two children.
187
00:17:22,640 --> 00:17:25,422
Yes, children will be easy after
that deal with all these things.
188
00:17:26,480 --> 00:17:28,960
Competitions in the world circuit
for about 11 years.
189
00:17:29,280 --> 00:17:31,840
When I was stopping,
Ian was just beginning,
190
00:17:31,960 --> 00:17:33,680
trying to qualify
to the circuit.
191
00:17:33,960 --> 00:17:35,920
And I said,
"Dude, there's no one your age
192
00:17:36,000 --> 00:17:37,920
behind the
bid of the great wave ".
193
00:17:38,160 --> 00:17:39,480
So I went to Ian and said,
194
00:17:39,560 --> 00:17:41,999
"Let's become partners
who surf big waves together. "
195
00:17:42,000 --> 00:17:43,300
NOVEMBER 2007
196
00:17:43,400 --> 00:17:44,840
I think he made the right choice
197
00:17:44,920 --> 00:17:48,200
on surfing the big waves enough
and yet be competitive
198
00:17:48,280 --> 00:17:49,580
events and everything.
199
00:17:51,600 --> 00:17:52,900
Any wave?
200
00:17:53,680 --> 00:17:55,000
It's blowing a lot.
201
00:17:55,440 --> 00:17:57,920
Dude, it's very uneven.
202
00:17:58,000 --> 00:17:59,720
See how big the second wave.
203
00:17:59,800 --> 00:18:03,480
It would be difficult to maintain the position,
with all this turbulence.
204
00:18:03,960 --> 00:18:06,000
The sea was kind of weak and strange,
205
00:18:06,200 --> 00:18:07,634
the wind was totally wrong.
206
00:18:08,000 --> 00:18:09,300
What do you want to do?
207
00:18:09,320 --> 00:18:10,620
I think I'll get out.
208
00:18:11,040 --> 00:18:13,680
I'm going to stop in Kuau,
get things and I'm going.
209
00:18:13,760 --> 00:18:15,060
We're very late.
210
00:18:17,000 --> 00:18:18,119
Have fun l .
211
00:18:18,120 --> 00:18:19,760
He decided to go to Honulua Bay,
212
00:18:19,840 --> 00:18:21,579
and I think he decided
shoot with arrows.
213
00:18:43,520 --> 00:18:47,200
It really complicates things when
you try and do what Ian does.
214
00:18:48,640 --> 00:18:51,360
He really focused on surfing
giant waves in Jaws,
215
00:18:51,440 --> 00:18:53,880
and she's really in love
for surfing in competitions.
216
00:18:54,040 --> 00:18:57,160
The waves are with
a quarter of the size.
217
00:18:58,520 --> 00:19:00,399
So they will not see you again.
attend the event?
218
00:19:00,400 --> 00:19:01,720
It's going well now.
219
00:19:02,640 --> 00:19:05,640
My battery changed from the third day
for today, the second day,
220
00:19:05,720 --> 00:19:09,000
and this has become utter madness
to get everything ready
221
00:19:09,080 --> 00:19:11,160
and pack up to go to Oahu.
222
00:19:11,520 --> 00:19:14,600
simply insane,
all this season of competition.
223
00:19:14,720 --> 00:19:16,320
I try to help him whenever I can.
224
00:19:18,120 --> 00:19:22,480
He tries to balance both,
which is not an easy task.
225
00:19:26,360 --> 00:19:27,660
Just before my battery,
226
00:19:27,760 --> 00:19:29,559
I was warming myself
on some new boards.
227
00:19:29,560 --> 00:19:33,000
In the first wave, I climbed it
and she literally broke.
228
00:19:34,000 --> 00:19:36,217
I thought, "This is ...
Is this really happening? "
229
00:19:36,920 --> 00:19:38,760
- On a wave.
"On a wave, like this?"
230
00:19:39,160 --> 00:19:41,280
I can only improve from this point.
231
00:19:44,080 --> 00:19:48,880
Welcome to HIC Pro 2015,
a $ 100,000 event.
232
00:19:48,960 --> 00:19:51,360
Ian Walsh, ten years ago,
winning this event,
233
00:19:51,480 --> 00:19:53,760
and of course, former finalist,
234
00:19:53,880 --> 00:19:57,040
going very well in the Triple Crown Vans
of surfing, in the last year.
235
00:19:57,120 --> 00:19:59,946
If you know Ian, he's out.
seeking the biggest wave in the world.
236
00:20:01,120 --> 00:20:04,560
Jack Robinson, 17 years old,
a phenomenon in Australia.
237
00:20:05,000 --> 00:20:07,600
It will be a good wave
punctuation for theft.
238
00:20:08,080 --> 00:20:10,840
Ian ... let's see.
Red, Ian Walsh.
239
00:20:16,040 --> 00:20:19,520
Here we go. Jack Robinson
in action, firing in front.
240
00:20:20,000 --> 00:20:23,560
Jack Robinson, in white,
in first, Ian Walsh, in second.
241
00:20:24,200 --> 00:20:26,400
He is trying to improve on 5.67.
242
00:20:26,640 --> 00:20:27,940
Nice wave.
243
00:20:29,720 --> 00:20:31,360
And the alarm sounds.
244
00:20:31,480 --> 00:20:33,960
Ian Walsh, an excellent surfing experience.
245
00:20:34,080 --> 00:20:35,960
He ripped Robo out of the first place.
246
00:20:37,640 --> 00:20:40,320
Testing microphone.
Yellow, leather. Red leather.
247
00:20:40,400 --> 00:20:41,760
Ian, nice to meet you.
248
00:20:42,960 --> 00:20:44,260
good to see more of Ian Walsh.
249
00:20:44,320 --> 00:20:45,624
"My parables, Ian.
-Thank you.
250
00:20:45,720 --> 00:20:48,806
I'll say hello to the 4th grade class
of my mother, who is watching,
251
00:20:48,840 --> 00:20:50,520
Pukalani School in Maui.
252
00:20:50,800 --> 00:20:52,760
Hello, Pukalani School!
253
00:20:52,840 --> 00:20:54,600
Ian was well taken care of. Uncle Ian detonated.
254
00:20:54,680 --> 00:20:55,799
With you guys.
255
00:20:55,800 --> 00:20:57,100
It's good to see you.
-Right.
256
00:20:58,560 --> 00:21:03,120
And here we go, 23 minutes left
for two more surfers to go to the final
257
00:21:03,200 --> 00:21:05,120
along with
Kaito Kino and Billy Kemper.
258
00:21:05,440 --> 00:21:07,840
a takeoff in turbulent waters
for Ian Walsh.
259
00:21:08,600 --> 00:21:12,000
Putting the level here
for the semifinal number two.
260
00:21:12,640 --> 00:21:14,200
Surfing theft.
261
00:21:14,440 --> 00:21:16,200
Beautiful combined curve maneuver.
262
00:21:16,920 --> 00:21:18,440
Here we go, Ian Walsh.
263
00:21:19,040 --> 00:21:21,080
the famous Ian Walsh right there.
264
00:21:22,680 --> 00:21:24,680
Jack Robinson on the second wave.
265
00:21:27,760 --> 00:21:29,920
Well, that will solve it.
the second semifinal.
266
00:21:30,000 --> 00:21:34,520
Ian Walsh and Jack Robinson, advancing,
in first and second, final
267
00:21:34,600 --> 00:21:36,920
to face
Billy Kemper and Kaito Kino.
268
00:21:37,680 --> 00:21:40,080
And we're on our way to the final.
269
00:21:40,920 --> 00:21:42,280
-Ian Walsh.
-Ian Walsh.
270
00:21:42,360 --> 00:21:45,160
A beautiful exit, slide in the
curve to the top.
271
00:21:45,280 --> 00:21:48,080
An aggressive curve,
down again, another turn,
272
00:21:48,160 --> 00:21:50,320
a little more aggressive,
the second turn.
273
00:21:50,680 --> 00:21:54,920
My goodness, I could not wish
a better start as a competitor.
274
00:21:59,040 --> 00:22:00,560
We got Billy coming out.
275
00:22:00,680 --> 00:22:02,280
Let's see the closing maneuver.
276
00:22:04,320 --> 00:22:08,480
And right behind him, Ian Walsh,
quickly reaching that 9.93.
277
00:22:09,160 --> 00:22:11,760
With that chill,
and he is in the lead.
278
00:22:14,480 --> 00:22:17,040
And it is simply
a return of victory at this point.
279
00:22:17,200 --> 00:22:18,560
There are few people
280
00:22:18,640 --> 00:22:21,239
As good as he is in waves.
small, and especially large,
281
00:22:21,240 --> 00:22:24,360
and proof of this their performance
in Sunset Beach.
282
00:22:24,480 --> 00:22:26,199
Look at Ian Walsh,
it is on fire.
283
00:22:26,200 --> 00:22:29,880
Billy Kemper, he stayed
with 5.6 in this event ...
284
00:22:30,200 --> 00:22:33,920
You are one, now, twice
champion of HIC Pro,
285
00:22:34,040 --> 00:22:36,640
2005 and now in 2015,
286
00:22:36,760 --> 00:22:38,600
of Maui, Ian Walsh!
287
00:22:46,400 --> 00:22:49,040
Back to the bike.
right after that.
288
00:22:58,280 --> 00:22:59,580
Right.
289
00:22:59,880 --> 00:23:01,180
Winter has come.
290
00:23:03,520 --> 00:23:04,799
What a day.
291
00:23:04,800 --> 00:23:06,560
Damn it, I'm so excited!
292
00:23:09,160 --> 00:23:12,080
It's so good to win a tournament.
293
00:23:12,240 --> 00:23:14,920
Oh, my God, I'm so electric.
294
00:23:15,240 --> 00:23:19,600
But it's so good. So many times,
I've been so close to achieving this.
295
00:23:27,720 --> 00:23:29,240
... for Ian Walsh,
296
00:23:29,600 --> 00:23:31,560
and certainly for
all children
297
00:23:31,760 --> 00:23:34,440
of his mother's class,
at the Pukalani School ...
298
00:23:34,520 --> 00:23:35,820
EAST
Airport Joint Base
299
00:23:41,240 --> 00:23:42,540
BOX OFFICE
300
00:23:47,240 --> 00:23:49,160
4:20 p.m.
301
00:23:52,280 --> 00:23:54,480
Good job. Parab ns.
302
00:23:54,960 --> 00:23:56,079
I had fun.
303
00:23:56,080 --> 00:23:57,520
I'm so excited.
304
00:24:07,760 --> 00:24:09,060
Thank you guys.
305
00:24:09,080 --> 00:24:11,880
Surely it would not have been possible
without you all, folks,
306
00:24:11,960 --> 00:24:13,239
we are all one great unity,
307
00:24:13,240 --> 00:24:15,920
Therefore,
Thank you and have fun tonight.
308
00:24:29,800 --> 00:24:31,440
I do not know about this year.
309
00:24:32,080 --> 00:24:34,949
Let's just pray that
all right, for the safety of all,
310
00:24:35,120 --> 00:24:38,400
because everyone is anxious
to continue.
311
00:24:40,240 --> 00:24:43,760
With the winter season
with El Ni o arriving,
312
00:24:43,840 --> 00:24:47,880
there are faces that really
Believe and want to surf
313
00:24:48,000 --> 00:24:50,160
in waves of 25 meters per year,
314
00:24:50,240 --> 00:24:53,560
and, the limit point, you know,
the size of the wave that can surf,
315
00:24:54,240 --> 00:24:55,960
depends on the desire of each.
316
00:24:56,920 --> 00:24:58,680
It will always progress.
317
00:24:58,800 --> 00:25:00,800
For me, sit here and say:
318
00:25:01,000 --> 00:25:03,680
"No, in our generation,
no one will get over it, "
319
00:25:03,920 --> 00:25:05,220
Stupidity.
320
00:25:06,280 --> 00:25:07,519
On the right day,
321
00:25:07,520 --> 00:25:09,319
with the right conditions,
with the right security team.
322
00:25:09,320 --> 00:25:12,320
Probably see someone this year
that would do the impossible.
323
00:25:14,200 --> 00:25:15,840
You can feel the tension in the air,
324
00:25:15,920 --> 00:25:19,400
but I can always understand
how much fun they have.
325
00:25:19,600 --> 00:25:23,040
They prepare the day before,
Wake up at daybreak ...
326
00:25:24,600 --> 00:25:27,800
JANUARY 4
327
00:25:27,880 --> 00:25:30,720
Prediction: 3.7m by 16.7 seconds
Estimated Front Height: 14.5m
328
00:25:30,800 --> 00:25:33,840
The first high sea of the year in Jaws
It's always very exciting.
329
00:25:34,640 --> 00:25:37,422
Everyone is a little nervous
and excited to see each other.
330
00:25:37,520 --> 00:25:40,120
It has that energy in the air
that you can not reproduce.
331
00:25:40,640 --> 00:25:42,239
Almost as if we were entering
332
00:25:42,240 --> 00:25:44,559
in a gladiator battle
every time we go there,
333
00:25:44,560 --> 00:25:46,680
Like, you do not know.
what will happen
334
00:25:47,320 --> 00:25:48,319
AQUATIC SECURITY
335
00:25:48,320 --> 00:25:49,799
I was not in fact
here this morning
336
00:25:49,800 --> 00:25:53,080
Then we slow everything down.
instead of starting at six o'clock,
337
00:25:53,160 --> 00:25:56,720
we simply decided
come back with things
338
00:25:56,800 --> 00:26:00,160
And let's not get tired of staying
out here waiting for the waves.
339
00:26:01,360 --> 00:26:02,760
The winds come,
340
00:26:02,840 --> 00:26:05,399
but there is no wind now,
the faster we get out of here
341
00:26:05,400 --> 00:26:06,700
the better it will be.
342
00:26:24,600 --> 00:26:28,480
The first thing you really
feel the texture of the ocean.
343
00:26:29,040 --> 00:26:31,360
So you feel if there is wind
or if the sea is agitated.
344
00:26:32,120 --> 00:26:34,880
There is a lot of refraction coming from the rocks.
345
00:26:35,800 --> 00:26:38,160
You feel the energy of the sea,
346
00:26:38,760 --> 00:26:41,720
and it's really when
Things go right in the day.
347
00:26:41,880 --> 00:26:44,280
Ian is paddling. Ian is starting.
348
00:26:55,600 --> 00:26:56,759
It was a difficult one.
349
00:26:56,760 --> 00:26:58,240
It was very entertaining.
350
00:27:07,800 --> 00:27:09,360
Keep an eye out, here comes the sequence.
351
00:27:20,720 --> 00:27:22,640
Take the rope. Take the rope.
352
00:27:22,760 --> 00:27:24,060
All right?
353
00:27:26,200 --> 00:27:27,500
Right. or Greg.
354
00:27:32,480 --> 00:27:34,240
or Ian.
355
00:27:34,360 --> 00:27:35,920
Ian de p .
356
00:27:48,400 --> 00:27:50,480
I think I cut myself ugly.
357
00:27:50,680 --> 00:27:53,080
We're heading back to the boat.
Ian cut his finger.
358
00:27:53,200 --> 00:27:54,500
Prepare the boat.
359
00:27:55,080 --> 00:27:56,558
-Do you think I can still surf?
-Yes.
360
00:27:57,280 --> 00:27:58,760
Just wrap it around. Sew then.
361
00:27:59,080 --> 00:28:01,000
I had a small solution
in the middle of the day.
362
00:28:01,080 --> 00:28:04,120
The back of the helm
cut my finger
363
00:28:04,200 --> 00:28:05,760
practically to the bone.
364
00:28:05,880 --> 00:28:07,920
I made a quick bandage
and returned to the sea,
365
00:28:08,000 --> 00:28:10,640
and I got another cool wave
which was very unstable.
366
00:28:12,640 --> 00:28:14,205
I ended up taking a break
to relax
367
00:28:14,320 --> 00:28:17,000
and the waves stayed
strange soon after.
368
00:28:21,440 --> 00:28:24,309
That small dose of wind does
the difference between day and night.
369
00:28:24,320 --> 00:28:27,160
See nothing
and have salt water in the eyes ...
370
00:28:29,880 --> 00:28:31,920
Basically like
jumped from a bridge
371
00:28:32,000 --> 00:28:33,680
without knowing what is down there.
372
00:28:37,520 --> 00:28:41,200
On a very good day in Jaws,
You could go and get a wave.
373
00:28:41,280 --> 00:28:43,400
at seven, eight, nine o'clock.
374
00:28:46,040 --> 00:28:48,160
Finally we gathered the whole team,
375
00:28:48,240 --> 00:28:50,240
and I'll have my finger sewn tonight,
376
00:28:50,360 --> 00:28:53,920
make sure I did not break
no tendencies or anything.
377
00:28:54,680 --> 00:28:58,280
I think it was a mean day today,
but it was a good start.
378
00:28:59,200 --> 00:29:00,560
It's just the beginning.
379
00:29:02,840 --> 00:29:05,200
Stretch. Good. Close.
380
00:29:05,320 --> 00:29:06,279
Stretch.
381
00:29:06,280 --> 00:29:07,975
Good. Now go down.
his hand completely.
382
00:29:08,520 --> 00:29:10,680
If there is a competition, a mari pica,
383
00:29:10,760 --> 00:29:12,839
And you need to surf tomorrow,
I could protect him.
384
00:29:12,840 --> 00:29:15,440
It is better to stay out of the water
for a few days.
385
00:29:15,560 --> 00:29:17,640
Yeah, I'm aiming for the 10th.
386
00:29:17,720 --> 00:29:20,480
-Right.
-Then, 6 days would be my goal.
387
00:29:25,400 --> 00:29:28,240
The whole history of wave surfing
giants very interesting.
388
00:29:28,640 --> 00:29:30,400
You know, these guys are pioneers.
389
00:29:30,600 --> 00:29:33,440
They will l without strings
and without safety equipment.
390
00:29:34,080 --> 00:29:38,680
There has always been this idea that
anything over ten meters
391
00:29:38,760 --> 00:29:41,280
it starts to get very
dangerous for surfing,
392
00:29:41,360 --> 00:29:43,480
this impossible limit of size.
393
00:29:43,560 --> 00:29:46,880
And then there was the introduction
of this type of surfing with trailer.
394
00:29:47,080 --> 00:29:49,036
Basically, you can
climb on a board,
395
00:29:49,080 --> 00:29:50,775
could be placed
in a great wave.
396
00:29:51,240 --> 00:29:54,400
It can surf ten
or 15 waves of this type
397
00:29:54,480 --> 00:29:57,160
because you can
position much more.
398
00:29:57,600 --> 00:30:00,079
You have a machine that can
traveling at 65 kilometers per hour,
399
00:30:00,080 --> 00:30:02,880
and if it has a wave of 15 meters
in that direction, go and get it.
400
00:30:05,400 --> 00:30:08,880
The guys would not surf all year,
they would come to take the 15-meter ones.
401
00:30:08,960 --> 00:30:10,280
insane.
402
00:30:11,840 --> 00:30:14,520
You take any ordinary person
to surfing paddling in Jaws,
403
00:30:14,920 --> 00:30:16,720
can not get a wave,
and if caught,
404
00:30:16,800 --> 00:30:18,640
will be totally annihilated.
405
00:30:28,920 --> 00:30:34,000
The revolution of towing surf in the
showed that it was possible to survive
406
00:30:34,080 --> 00:30:36,440
to much larger waves
than we imagined.
407
00:30:42,760 --> 00:30:44,760
The tow surfing
helped establish
408
00:30:44,960 --> 00:30:47,640
the jet ski as a
security tool
409
00:30:47,720 --> 00:30:49,640
and for everything you do in the ocean.
410
00:30:51,320 --> 00:30:56,840
It was really the step for the next one.
evolution of giant wave surfing.
411
00:30:58,040 --> 00:31:00,680
I used to compete
paddling with the boards,
412
00:31:00,760 --> 00:31:03,000
and had the idea that
I could do
413
00:31:03,200 --> 00:31:04,920
these boards
be faster.
414
00:31:06,080 --> 00:31:10,480
That's when Ian, Greg
and some other guys
415
00:31:10,600 --> 00:31:12,360
they began to row these things.
416
00:31:14,320 --> 00:31:17,440
We make this conscious decision
to stop with the trailer surfing
417
00:31:17,640 --> 00:31:19,120
and return to rowing.
418
00:31:24,520 --> 00:31:27,520
All the speed at which the wave
travels when it reaches 15 meters
419
00:31:27,600 --> 00:31:30,960
Too fast for drawing
standard board Everything needs to change.
420
00:31:32,480 --> 00:31:34,088
Are they ready?
I'm not sure.
421
00:31:34,160 --> 00:31:36,840
No one has done this before,
then no one knows.
422
00:31:38,480 --> 00:31:41,640
Chris Christenson,
he has the details
423
00:31:41,720 --> 00:31:44,560
I do not think any other
plank designer has.
424
00:31:45,280 --> 00:31:48,760
So I plan to find something
Give us a little more
425
00:31:48,840 --> 00:31:50,480
and that every time I get sick,
426
00:31:50,560 --> 00:31:53,120
or because I went down the wave
too fast.
427
00:31:53,200 --> 00:31:54,879
After every big
mar that he surfs,
428
00:31:54,880 --> 00:31:56,749
we talked to each other,
shortly thereafter.
429
00:31:56,800 --> 00:31:59,000
Have this trail more
parallel up there
430
00:31:59,080 --> 00:32:01,340
will allow plank to work better
at the base of the wave,
431
00:32:01,360 --> 00:32:04,440
we will allow you to paddle faster
with shoulders farther apart
432
00:32:04,520 --> 00:32:07,560
and have a larger syrup,
will give you more maneuverability.
433
00:32:10,680 --> 00:32:13,880
If they can trust me
before entering the water,
434
00:32:13,960 --> 00:32:16,240
this leaves them at an advantage in the game.
435
00:32:22,280 --> 00:32:24,720
JANUARY, 10
436
00:32:26,160 --> 00:32:27,839
Preview 3.9m in 14.7 seconds
Estimated Front Height: 13m
437
00:32:27,840 --> 00:32:29,480
The forecast looks very good,
438
00:32:29,600 --> 00:32:31,160
probably the best of the year.
439
00:32:31,280 --> 00:32:33,119
Do you think it's the size
What are Ian looking for?
440
00:32:33,120 --> 00:32:35,800
No, Ian is looking for
for as long as possible.
441
00:32:37,600 --> 00:32:40,240
It just ... looks like the sea
is not here yet
442
00:32:40,360 --> 00:32:43,560
I do not know, markers simply
they are not obvious.
443
00:32:44,000 --> 00:32:47,000
I think we're just going to start
now and continue with our plan
444
00:32:47,080 --> 00:32:48,380
and go to l at first light,
445
00:32:48,400 --> 00:32:50,520
hoping it gets better
throughout the morning.
446
00:32:57,240 --> 00:32:59,280
The best conditions till now.
447
00:33:02,560 --> 00:33:05,400
The fact of the forecast
we have indicated light winds
448
00:33:05,480 --> 00:33:08,640
aroused much more interest
of surfers around the world.
449
00:33:21,320 --> 00:33:23,720
Concentration of people in the morning
was lighter,
450
00:33:23,840 --> 00:33:26,760
so you could stand
and begin to line up with the waves
451
00:33:26,840 --> 00:33:29,480
any way he wanted,
where he wanted to pick them up.
452
00:33:39,000 --> 00:33:42,600
I think the board of a guy passed
well above me at the end of the tube.
453
00:33:53,240 --> 00:33:55,400
And so, according to
more people arrive,
454
00:33:55,480 --> 00:33:57,320
the place you take it
the waves dictation,
455
00:33:57,520 --> 00:33:59,240
based on where
he's stuck in the crowd.
456
00:34:01,960 --> 00:34:04,879
You know, when you're turning around,
trying to paddle for a giant wave,
457
00:34:04,880 --> 00:34:06,880
and you have people on your left,
and on the right,
458
00:34:06,915 --> 00:34:08,039
positioning itself, calling ...
459
00:34:08,040 --> 00:34:10,439
The press is there. H helicopters
flying everywhere,
460
00:34:10,440 --> 00:34:12,720
drones buzzing in your head,
461
00:34:12,800 --> 00:34:15,640
boats passing one upon the other,
It's just chaos.
462
00:34:17,400 --> 00:34:19,200
I surfed in Jaws for 15 years,
463
00:34:19,280 --> 00:34:21,760
and I will not go there anymore
because it's just a crazy zone.
464
00:34:21,880 --> 00:34:23,400
It's not fun, it's very dangerous.
465
00:34:24,560 --> 00:34:27,255
The last thing I want to do
To hurt someone with the board.
466
00:34:29,840 --> 00:34:31,960
When you make mistakes.
467
00:34:32,040 --> 00:34:35,400
You know, you're surfing accordingly.
with the crowd, not with what he wants.
468
00:34:43,280 --> 00:34:46,360
When you have 50 people l ,
I definitely do not feel comfortable
469
00:34:46,440 --> 00:34:48,600
Ian, on the other hand,
It seems to go well.
470
00:35:41,360 --> 00:35:43,480
Let's get a second wave.
471
00:36:13,000 --> 00:36:17,040
To stay with my brother in the water in Jaws
It's something I can not even explain.
472
00:36:17,800 --> 00:36:20,040
probably one of the moments
more special.
473
00:36:20,240 --> 00:36:23,000
There is nothing that we can not be,
It is the best feeling in the world.
474
00:36:23,600 --> 00:36:26,840
On most days, we take turns,
making the security of each other,
475
00:36:26,960 --> 00:36:29,080
and this gives us all
a chance to surf.
476
00:36:59,000 --> 00:37:02,200
Only three or four
very good sequences came today,
477
00:37:02,280 --> 00:37:04,480
in a period of eight to ten hours.
478
00:37:05,640 --> 00:37:08,080
The climate and all things are here,
but the sea.
479
00:37:08,720 --> 00:37:10,080
The waves are very small.
480
00:37:10,360 --> 00:37:12,880
I will be impressed
if they really hit it.
481
00:37:18,880 --> 00:37:21,720
A great contribution
for evolution
482
00:37:21,920 --> 00:37:23,640
of the sport, in fact,
the security.
483
00:37:24,120 --> 00:37:27,520
And the most notable is the inflatable clothing.
that we have developed.
484
00:37:27,600 --> 00:37:29,840
I had the idea of
inflatable bathing suit
485
00:37:29,920 --> 00:37:31,919
for an experiment
of near death in the Mavericks.
486
00:37:31,920 --> 00:37:35,960
December 2010
487
00:37:37,840 --> 00:37:40,440
I was getting old,
He was married, having children,
488
00:37:40,640 --> 00:37:43,248
I just felt it was
too dangerous to be worth it.
489
00:37:44,240 --> 00:37:47,840
It was something that was necessary,
because the sport has reached a level
490
00:37:47,920 --> 00:37:49,960
in which we were losing people.
491
00:37:50,040 --> 00:37:51,840
You know, that was not acceptable.
492
00:37:54,040 --> 00:37:56,160
When you fall, you pull a rope,
493
00:37:56,240 --> 00:37:58,880
the costume inflates and takes you to the surface.
494
00:37:59,480 --> 00:38:00,639
You will not think:
495
00:38:00,640 --> 00:38:02,439
"You know what? I'm sure.
because I have the suit. "
496
00:38:02,440 --> 00:38:04,200
You do not want to have that attitude.
497
00:38:05,600 --> 00:38:08,279
What happens when you are in
a situation where your dress is active?
498
00:38:08,280 --> 00:38:10,320
Or in a situation
in which his costume does not activate?
499
00:38:12,120 --> 00:38:13,480
So, because of the suit,
500
00:38:13,720 --> 00:38:17,840
You have many more people than you.
they would be there if it were not for him.
501
00:38:18,320 --> 00:38:22,120
People, in certain places,
they became uncontrollable, therefore.
502
00:38:22,280 --> 00:38:23,800
This is the paradox, of course.
503
00:38:33,440 --> 00:38:36,280
It saved lives, but in a way,
504
00:38:36,360 --> 00:38:38,520
I feel it put at risk
lives of people
505
00:38:38,600 --> 00:38:40,920
that they would not be there, without the suit.
506
00:38:43,440 --> 00:38:45,720
Are you going surfing in?
Any place in the world,
507
00:38:45,800 --> 00:38:47,799
must have a safety plan
and a second reservation,
508
00:38:47,800 --> 00:38:49,104
and another plan after that.
509
00:38:50,040 --> 00:38:53,120
Most people think that
the suit is the safety plan.
510
00:38:53,320 --> 00:38:56,240
And they assume that the
I will rescue them.
511
00:38:58,960 --> 00:39:01,560
Certainly it was morally difficult
not start,
512
00:39:01,640 --> 00:39:03,161
when it began to get very full.
513
00:39:04,280 --> 00:39:06,240
I could never live knowing
514
00:39:06,320 --> 00:39:08,519
What was I supposed to be?
l working with this group,
515
00:39:08,520 --> 00:39:10,000
which I consider my family,
516
00:39:10,080 --> 00:39:13,560
and that something happened because
I was not taking care of them,
517
00:39:13,680 --> 00:39:15,280
I was taking care of someone else
518
00:39:15,360 --> 00:39:17,316
that had nothing to do
with our operation.
519
00:39:18,920 --> 00:39:21,559
I do not think it's the right of
somebody say what can or can not,
520
00:39:21,560 --> 00:39:26,240
but when you cross that line of
not following the safety protocol,
521
00:39:26,320 --> 00:39:28,233
how to be able to care
first of all,
522
00:39:28,400 --> 00:39:29,878
You kind of crossed the line.
523
00:39:29,880 --> 00:39:32,760
and need to rethink
about what he's doing there.
524
00:39:34,400 --> 00:39:36,640
If you look at the inflatable costume,
525
00:39:37,000 --> 00:39:40,680
yes, it's a nightmare, on certain days,
in certain waves ...
526
00:39:41,560 --> 00:39:45,640
but the sport simply
became incredible because of it.
527
00:39:55,760 --> 00:39:59,120
In the fifteenth, we had a sea
which was expected to be
528
00:39:59,200 --> 00:40:01,679
bigger than anything
which we had all winter,
529
00:40:01,680 --> 00:40:03,200
maybe in my life.
530
00:40:04,880 --> 00:40:09,280
So, you're lining up to be a
monumental day for the paddled surf.
531
00:40:09,360 --> 00:40:13,160
Prediction 5.5m in 18.2 seconds
Estimated Frontal Height: 22.5m
532
00:40:13,440 --> 00:40:14,760
Beautiful setting.
533
00:40:14,840 --> 00:40:17,720
15th of January
534
00:40:18,040 --> 00:40:20,280
Bring towing boards
was part of the discussion,
535
00:40:20,360 --> 00:40:24,320
but I'm stubbornly trying to row.
536
00:40:24,400 --> 00:40:26,199
I think we are all
a little scared,
537
00:40:26,200 --> 00:40:29,320
it's kind of worried
with how great it will be today,
538
00:40:29,400 --> 00:40:31,660
but we hope it is,
in some way, controllable.
539
00:40:34,760 --> 00:40:36,368
In fact,
I'm very nervous now
540
00:40:36,440 --> 00:40:37,740
for having to surf there.
541
00:40:37,760 --> 00:40:40,040
I do not know, I have this
strange feeling.
542
00:40:41,320 --> 00:40:44,000
Certainly shaken. No one day
to show feelings ...
543
00:40:45,280 --> 00:40:47,062
I'm a little out of control,
certainly.
544
00:40:47,720 --> 00:40:49,600
Greg was basically
sick all the time.
545
00:40:49,720 --> 00:40:52,560
He could not surf. Therefore,
Greg ended up doing the security.
546
00:40:53,440 --> 00:40:56,160
It's very difficult to do well.
on a day like this.
547
00:40:56,400 --> 00:40:59,800
You know how much you waited
for a day like this,
548
00:40:59,880 --> 00:41:01,180
to get surf.
549
00:41:03,040 --> 00:41:06,720
Everything we look for,
dropping big waves,
550
00:41:06,800 --> 00:41:08,147
was pointing to this day.
551
00:41:10,800 --> 00:41:13,720
I had never seen Jaws burst
that way in my life.
552
00:41:14,600 --> 00:41:16,200
Two hours, we're leaving.
553
00:41:17,000 --> 00:41:18,300
Watch.
554
00:41:28,480 --> 00:41:32,840
As if you were rehearsing
to get the rhythm,
555
00:41:32,920 --> 00:41:35,240
because the wave moves very fast
556
00:41:35,320 --> 00:41:37,640
and there is a lot of water hitting his face.
557
00:41:39,000 --> 00:41:42,440
A perfect example of:
"Be careful what you want".
558
00:41:59,560 --> 00:42:00,860
Heating!
559
00:42:33,040 --> 00:42:34,340
Shane, come on up!
560
00:42:34,360 --> 00:42:35,660
Shane.
561
00:42:36,200 --> 00:42:39,680
Yes, Shane. It was amazing.
562
00:44:04,640 --> 00:44:06,360
You caught an incredible wave, did not you?
563
00:44:08,440 --> 00:44:11,320
It just felt as if the
ocean was under control.
564
00:44:14,000 --> 00:44:15,719
It was not like a normal day,
where you can
565
00:44:15,720 --> 00:44:17,920
have fun, like, everyone was ...
566
00:44:39,080 --> 00:44:40,319
Come on, come on.
567
00:44:40,320 --> 00:44:41,479
Come on, come on.
568
00:44:41,480 --> 00:44:42,780
Are you okay?
-My neck.
569
00:44:42,880 --> 00:44:44,180
"What?"
-My neck.
570
00:44:44,840 --> 00:44:46,140
Here Shaun Walsh.
571
00:44:46,440 --> 00:44:48,440
DK has a possible injury
in the cervical area.
572
00:44:49,600 --> 00:44:51,730
I'm tingling a lot
and my neck is sore.
573
00:44:52,680 --> 00:44:54,000
Take me with Shaun.
574
00:44:57,120 --> 00:44:59,320
I could look into everyone's eyes,
575
00:44:59,400 --> 00:45:02,680
and say, "My God, that was
what happened in Cortes ".
576
00:45:03,200 --> 00:45:05,520
It was the reverse situation.
577
00:45:05,960 --> 00:45:07,655
DK was l ,
he saved Greg's life,
578
00:45:07,840 --> 00:45:09,560
and now,
Greg is doing what he can.
579
00:45:11,840 --> 00:45:13,319
It was just kind of surreal.
580
00:45:13,320 --> 00:45:15,360
Like, my heart sank, you know?
581
00:45:15,480 --> 00:45:18,001
I did not know how serious it was,
or what was happening.
582
00:45:19,120 --> 00:45:21,040
DK, do you want to call the emergency?
583
00:45:21,120 --> 00:45:22,560
I need an ambulance.
584
00:45:22,760 --> 00:45:24,060
Do not call Mom.
585
00:45:25,560 --> 00:45:28,800
No matter how good the waves are,
This is the priority, it does not matter.
586
00:45:29,040 --> 00:45:30,960
We took it with great security.
587
00:45:31,280 --> 00:45:35,360
The goal is to simply take it
to a higher level of care.
588
00:45:35,800 --> 00:45:38,560
When it happens,
There is not much we can do.
589
00:45:39,000 --> 00:45:41,320
Shaun, he and Luke,
everybody trying to go with me,
590
00:45:41,400 --> 00:45:44,182
but looking at how good the waves
were, wanted them to stay.
591
00:45:44,200 --> 00:45:46,640
Once in life the conditions
of the sea stay like this.
592
00:45:52,160 --> 00:45:54,640
We stayed out and this
has turned into
593
00:45:54,840 --> 00:45:57,520
a very important day
of my life.
594
00:46:35,480 --> 00:46:38,080
I just took a wave in the face.
595
00:46:38,160 --> 00:46:40,480
and I got no advantage for a while.
596
00:46:57,160 --> 00:46:58,680
I saw him enter this wave,
597
00:46:58,760 --> 00:47:01,455
and well when I saw him stand by,
I thought, "He's in too much."
598
00:47:01,520 --> 00:47:05,280
And, you know, when you're there,
Sometimes you have to take the risk.
599
00:47:32,200 --> 00:47:35,160
And he was from p all the time
in which the wave descended.
600
00:47:35,280 --> 00:47:36,800
I thought he was going to jump.
601
00:48:15,800 --> 00:48:18,119
You know what happened,
and some of the surfer here today,
602
00:48:18,120 --> 00:48:20,240
You know, history was made,
certainly.
603
00:48:21,720 --> 00:48:25,040
Yes, today was amazing,
but as soon as I caught that wave,
604
00:48:25,160 --> 00:48:27,840
reality hit and all that
I could think, it was in DK.
605
00:48:46,200 --> 00:48:48,560
Nothing was broken, nothing fractured.
606
00:48:48,640 --> 00:48:50,880
All exams and resonances
were good.
607
00:48:51,480 --> 00:48:54,200
Now, for the next one,
I have to wear this cervical collar,
608
00:48:55,320 --> 00:49:00,040
It's kind of a lie for a while.
and wait for my body to recover.
609
00:49:05,600 --> 00:49:07,760
It has been an intense January.
610
00:49:08,240 --> 00:49:12,760
A week ago,
we had one of the biggest days I've ever seen
611
00:49:12,840 --> 00:49:15,480
with clean winds,
in my whole life here.
612
00:49:15,880 --> 00:49:19,280
I just felt that I never
we will see all that
613
00:49:19,360 --> 00:49:20,660
happen again,
614
00:49:20,680 --> 00:49:23,400
until we get really old,
cheering on a cliff.
615
00:49:24,440 --> 00:49:28,240
And so, a great system
appeared in the middle of the Pacific,
616
00:49:28,320 --> 00:49:29,960
and here we are.
617
00:49:30,040 --> 00:49:31,440
JANUARY 28
618
00:49:31,920 --> 00:49:33,199
4.5m forecast in 20 seconds
Estimated Front Height: 20m
619
00:49:33,200 --> 00:49:35,800
Just have another chance
with conditions like this
620
00:49:35,880 --> 00:49:41,440
... kind of made me take a step
behind and to value a little more
621
00:49:41,520 --> 00:49:43,400
by the seas we are having now.
622
00:49:45,520 --> 00:49:48,389
I thought my winter had
finished after leaving the hospital,
623
00:49:48,400 --> 00:49:50,560
Then I was discharged
of doctors in Los Angeles.
624
00:49:50,640 --> 00:49:52,161
He said that everything was in place.
625
00:49:52,280 --> 00:49:55,160
I'm very grateful. I never thought
that this would happen.
626
00:49:56,960 --> 00:50:00,720
And it was horrible for him not to be able to
surf, but he , without any doubts,
627
00:50:00,800 --> 00:50:03,000
the best face
on the jet ski, doing the security.
628
00:50:03,120 --> 00:50:06,760
So I think of everything, the group feels
much more comfortable and confident,
629
00:50:06,840 --> 00:50:08,360
just by having it in the water.
630
00:50:08,640 --> 00:50:10,320
Right, it's Greg.
631
00:50:26,960 --> 00:50:29,090
Pay attention to Greg, boys.
Pay attention.
632
00:50:29,120 --> 00:50:30,420
I caught him.
633
00:50:31,600 --> 00:50:32,900
Vit ria.
634
00:50:33,480 --> 00:50:37,360
In this sport, you will definitely
wants to see his friends do well.
635
00:50:37,480 --> 00:50:39,520
For Greg, he caught a wave
A few years ago ...
636
00:50:39,600 --> 00:50:40,519
October 2012
637
00:50:40,520 --> 00:50:43,080
... which was the best tube
I already got Jaws.
638
00:50:47,920 --> 00:50:51,760
And as he crossed,
he fell, flying out of the tube.
639
00:50:56,000 --> 00:50:58,760
He called it a trip.
on the finish line.
640
00:51:00,760 --> 00:51:02,720
You simply see
how much time and energy
641
00:51:02,800 --> 00:51:05,320
goes in each of these waves
they are surfing
642
00:51:05,440 --> 00:51:08,720
and how long does it take
to get a day like this,
643
00:51:08,920 --> 00:51:12,360
and it was really cool to see everything
working for Greg today.
644
00:51:29,880 --> 00:51:33,360
He took a tube and left.
You could almost see
645
00:51:33,480 --> 00:51:36,960
all energy and work
who were employed in that wave,
646
00:51:37,040 --> 00:51:38,400
kind, coming out of it.
647
00:51:38,560 --> 00:51:39,860
Good, Greg!
648
00:51:41,720 --> 00:51:44,040
We have Dorian surfing.
649
00:52:18,240 --> 00:52:19,920
Part of what Jaws , type,
650
00:52:20,160 --> 00:52:22,640
You surf for six hours,
651
00:52:22,840 --> 00:52:25,520
you can have only one
good opportunity on a wave.
652
00:52:42,840 --> 00:52:47,600
About four hours later, I got
one of the best waves I've had.
653
00:53:51,240 --> 00:53:53,040
Everything finally fell into place.
654
00:53:53,240 --> 00:53:57,560
Instead of focusing on the goal
to surf the biggest wave of his life,
655
00:53:57,920 --> 00:54:00,000
it is more about giving
one step back
656
00:54:00,080 --> 00:54:01,800
and enjoy all
the little things
657
00:54:02,000 --> 00:54:03,720
who took you there,
and live these days.
658
00:54:05,880 --> 00:54:08,160
The last El Ni o was in 1998.
659
00:54:08,680 --> 00:54:11,280
There were only four
El Ni os for real, in 40 years.
660
00:54:12,040 --> 00:54:13,880
The best big waves I've ever seen.
661
00:54:14,000 --> 00:54:16,680
I have surfed big waves
It's 25 years.
662
00:54:19,840 --> 00:54:23,840
Ian chose a path
that really serves it.
663
00:54:24,040 --> 00:54:27,680
I'm just blessed as a father.
664
00:54:34,280 --> 00:54:38,760
Part of surfing simply
Look at what comes next.
665
00:54:40,680 --> 00:54:41,980
It's true what they say.
666
00:54:42,040 --> 00:54:45,200
The greater the adversity,
the greater the conquest.
667
00:54:45,520 --> 00:54:48,720
And for me, it does not matter
the size of the waves,
668
00:54:48,880 --> 00:54:50,640
or stepping into the unknown,
669
00:54:51,000 --> 00:54:52,300
Where do I want to be?
53225
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