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The key light is usually the brightest and
the most visible light on set, its purpose
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is to highlight the form and dimension of
on-screen subjects. without realizing it we
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have already created one. so let's just promote
it to the key light role and call it like that.
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I'm rotating it in such way so it faces the
camera and then extending it a little bit and
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making it way larger. I'm pretty sure I'm gonna
position it on the other side of the scene, so we
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shoot in shadows and it will become clear why
in just a moment. for now let's leave it there,
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make it relatively large and then head over to
the light settings menu and adjust its power.
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now it's a little bit too weak to pretend
to be the key light, so let's give it a boost
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well, it makes sense to talk about brightnesses or
light ratios when there's more than one light in
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the scene and we will talk about that, but so far
I'm just trying to make it sufficiently bright.
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mm-hmm. now it packs a punch without going
over the top in terms of brightness, it's
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sufficiently bright to serve as our main light.
then the next property that we're gonna adjust
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is its size, which directly connects to softness.
the rule sounds like that: the smaller the light
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in proportion to the subject the harder and vice
versa. the bigger the emission surface the softer.
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given the bigger source area the transition
between the light and the shadow becomes less
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sharp and less pronounced and that is what we call
soft. as usual why not throw in a visual comparison.
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soft light means a gradual transition between
light and shadow, hard light means razor sharp
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shadows. but then it's all about the
gradient between lit and shaded areas,
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the gradient that depends on the size of the
light source. it's really easy to see how the
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gradient gets stretched on increasing the light
size to the point of a super ambient and slightly
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flat lighting and then on rolling the size back it
collapses a little bit, I cannot emphasize enough how
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important it is to establish a neural link between
the light size and softness and this gradient.
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okay what I usually like to do for
moving the light source around is press
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Dot and select 3D cursor as the Pivot Point,
alternatively you can find it in in this menu,
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by default it's set to active element, we just
change it to 3D cursor and then shift and right
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click on any kind of surface and with the lights
are selected press R and Z to constrain the
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rotation to the z-axis and it will pivot around
your 3D cursor, isn't that great :) so now it's time
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to talk about the direction of the light source,
just after we have talked about the power and the
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softness. the direction means *a lot* in lighting, for
example now we have placed our light in a rather
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frontal way and thus we have flattened the image
quite a bit, more often than not we don't want it,
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we don't want to flatten our stuff. by moving
it off to the side we make sure that the light
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is now splitting the object, so it got the much
needed contrast between brightly lit and shadowy
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sides that is already in the zone of sculpting
shape with light compared to more frontal light.
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so key light that comes in from the side is
already more dynamic in how it creates the
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shape and reveals the depth of the minerals and
the stuff around it, it can be placed overhead
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for the top light or moved to the side or maybe
you can place it directly on the opposite side
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in relationship to the camera so it's now
technically a backlight even though it's a
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key light, our main dominant light that still
creates most of the form and definition in the
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scene and actually with this particular
light placement we now shoot in shadows.
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we shoot in into shadow side and that is called
upstage lighting or reverse key lighting and if
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there is one little thing that we can do
to make our scenes more cinematic right
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away, is... uh shooting into shadows. as simple as
drawing the line and placing the key light on
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the opposite side from the camera, so now even
though this scene lacks any kind of fill... uh... we
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can appreciate the transition between light and
shadow and all the shadows actually falling in
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in the direction of the camera which makes it
look three-dimensional and great and cinematic,
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actually to prove this point in a fun way let's
select the camera and the key light and pivot
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it around our minerals and funny enough we can
tell that by keeping the camera on the opposite
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side of our key light we make sure that there
is no flattening going on it, it becomes hilariously
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hard to screw it up, right? :) it still feels pretty
three-dimensional due to the key light position.
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to recap the placement of the key light, it's
actually super important to consider to what
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extent does it actually help you to model the
shape and dimension of your subject when it's
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placed on the camera side, when it's, let's say,
kind of frontal or does it make more sense from
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the cinematic standpoint to highlight the shape
and the object to actually push our key light to
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the opposite side of the scene, so we shoot into
the shadow side as it makes the light and shadow
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play much more dynamic and nine times out of ten
at least in my opinion the reverse key lighting
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or the upstage lighting is much more cinematic in
terms of revealing the form of the object indeed.
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not to take away anything from the more frontal
light projections, but undeniably they are a little
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bit flat sometimes and it's good when you need
such flatness for whatever purposes, but if your
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goal as a 3D cinematographer as it happens is to
enhance the depth and enhance the dimension, that
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makes the reverse key lighting a no-brainer in my
opinion. it works with the hard lights as well, it
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doesn't really matter, the overall direction from
which the light hits the object matters the most
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here. the same principle would be the right word
applies here, not the hard-coded rule and if it
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was the rule it could be broken, but the principle.
the fronty light has usually less dimension than
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the side light or any other combination of the
light hitting the object at an angle and of course
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it's all relative to the camera position so if
the camera switched sides the light should jump
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to the other... other side of the scene as well
to maintain the reverse key lighting. so that I
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think could be a key takeaway, no pun intended, for
choosing the direction of your main light source.
9351
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