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okay today I'm going to be showing you
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how to check and replace the optic
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sensor in your ice maker if your ice
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maker has one of these optic sensors you
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can see we have no ice so what we have
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some refrigerators instead of using a
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bar to detect the ice level they use a
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laser that basically shines through the
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ice bin and detects when the ice level
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is too high now you see the lights
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flashing twice and there's a delay
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that's normal when this door is open
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basically meaning that the laser is
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being blocked but when you close it it
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should become a solid red light and
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you'll see that's not happening a good
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indication that the optics is bad I'm
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going to show you another way to test it
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too just to be sure but the first step
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is we're going to need to take these
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three screws out you have to lift up
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this door a little bit at least on this
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model and there are three Phillips
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screws so let's just take those out and
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you'll see what's behind there not much
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to it now there's this wiring harness
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you're going to be very careful
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unplugging it because it's so short and
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also I recommend you unplug your
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refrigerator while doing this because
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you can get shocked touching this I'm
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not going to because I need the light
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source and I'm just not going to touch
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it and hopefully not get shocked so take
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the wiring harness off and then what
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you're looking for is starting at the
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top and working down you'll see there's
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a pin a missing pin and then a pin on
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this one it's the two wires beneath the
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yellow wire once you see the the missing
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pin it's the two wires directly
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underneath that which in this case are
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black and white and black and you'll see
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the two wires are short I've just got a
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little jumper wire here I recommend you
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have the refrigerator off while you do
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this but you can even use a paperclip to
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do this so I'm simply going to jump
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these two wires these two pins together
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again if you do use a paperclip make
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sure you once you turn the refrigerator
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back on that you do not touch the
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paperclip because they can shock you so
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I'm going to short this out and then
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this is one of the best ways to test it
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I'm going to close it up and give your
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ice maker Lyall give your you know maybe
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several hours not a day or more and see
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if it starts making ice again if so you
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know that's the problem okay so let's
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get on to replacing it let's assume it's
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bad again the other side three screws
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just like this side I'm going to take
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those out it's got
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similar connector and here we see both
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I've got both the transmitter and the
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receiver you see what it looks like and
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I've also got the new ones that I bought
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I bought these off of Amazon if you buy
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these from whirlpool or KitchenAid you
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can expect this the cost I think it's
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almost $200 you can get a generic kit
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off of Amazon for less than $30 and
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that's what free shipping to replace it
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it's just 2 Phillips screws on either
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one and you can see just how quick it is
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to and easy to replace anybody with a
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screwdriver can do this I'm just be real
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careful absorb anti-static precautions
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you know make sure you're not doing this
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on a carpeted floor that you've touched
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something that's grounded with your
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hands before you go do this otherwise
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you could ruin this board as well so
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we're just going to take the two boards
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out replace them with the new ones and I
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can tell you that this is literally as
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easy as it looks so once we get those
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replaced we're going to put them back in
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the refrigerator and one of the things I
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want to explain you is that a lot of
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refrigerators use you probably familiar
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with it
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they have a bar that gets raised as the
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ice rate as the ice level increases and
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that bar turns the icemaker off this one
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uses these optics to sense the ice level
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and when the ice level gets too high it
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turns the icemaker off which is when the
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optics go bad what generally happens
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it'll turn the icemaker off and you
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won't be getting ice when in fact just
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because it thinks the ice bin is full so
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now we're going to plug this in and
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these these connectors are really short
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and it can be kind of a pain to get them
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plugged in and you'll see that it's even
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a struggle to kind of get it back in
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it's probably a little easier for you
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just not making excuses here I'm having
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to I'm having to deal with working
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around the camera so it's a little more
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inconvenient but I'm they will slide
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right in they're just going to put your
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three screws back in and again there are
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other things that can go bad on your ice
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maker if it's not filling with water
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that's quite often the water control
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valve at the back and there are ways to
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check that as well but for this one I'm
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simply covering the optics because it
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literally is the most common eye
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I'm to fail on these refrigerators when
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the icemaker quits working and it's easy
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to test so you can be sure that before
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you order one that it is the problem and
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that's what I like about this I like not
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having to just replace random parts to
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see if that fixes it so this is one of
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the first things I would test so now
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we're going to put the mainboard back in
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again I recommend you do this while the
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refrigerator is off and if you choose
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not to I do recommend that when you're
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finished once you get this back in place
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I recommend that you cut your
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refrigerator off for maybe ten or
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fifteen seconds or power it off and then
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power it back on just to make sure
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you've reset everything and then I'll
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show you here how to how to test and
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make sure that the optic sensor is in
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fact working if you remember from the
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beginning of the video I showed you that
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the light kept flashing twice even when
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the beam wasn't broken which indicates
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that it's that the optic sensor is
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faulty and now once I get the new one
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back in place um
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I'll show you how to test it again and
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you'll see that the light should go
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solid which is it's great that you can
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test something that it this easily so
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once we get these screws back in I'll
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close the flapper door on the other side
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we'll see the light goes solid and then
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wait 24 hours or so and hopefully you
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have ice and as you can see this entire
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procedure took me about six minutes it
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really did and less than thirty dollars
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which is you know probably not even a
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half or third what you would pay to have
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a technician come out so here you see me
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closing the flapper door the light goes
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solid and when I let go and the beam is
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broken again it flashes it's a very good
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way to to know that the optics was in
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fact faulty and I kind of want you to
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see what it looks like when it's working
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correctly so flashing I close it light
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goes solid alright hope that helps
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see y'all soon
13155
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