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1
00:01:00,269 --> 00:01:01,600
Hello?
2
00:01:01,812 --> 00:01:03,678
'Hey, guys. It's
John Branch from "The NY Times".
3
00:01:03,897 --> 00:01:05,262
'How's it going up there?'
4
00:01:05,482 --> 00:01:06,972
Good, John.
5
00:01:07,192 --> 00:01:09,684
'How high up
are you guys right now?'
6
00:01:09,903 --> 00:01:13,487
We are about 1,200 feet
up the wall at our base camp.
7
00:01:13,699 --> 00:01:16,191
This has been our home
for nine days now.
8
00:01:16,410 --> 00:01:20,153
'Tommy, I guess
the bottom line question here,
9
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'why are you doing this?
10
00:01:21,915 --> 00:01:24,703
'What's the point
of all this for you?'
11
00:01:29,548 --> 00:01:32,336
On the air tonight
with a story of two men
12
00:01:32,551 --> 00:01:35,418
attempting to free climb
the famously steep face
13
00:01:35,637 --> 00:01:38,004
of El Capitan in Yosemite.
14
00:01:42,269 --> 00:01:44,601
Inch by nerve-racking inch,
15
00:01:44,813 --> 00:01:48,932
using only their fingertips
to grasp razor sharp edges.
16
00:01:49,151 --> 00:01:51,313
Tommy Caldwell
and Kevin Jorgeson
17
00:01:51,528 --> 00:01:53,690
attempt the hardest climb
in the world.
18
00:01:53,905 --> 00:01:57,068
No one has ever
free-climbed the Dawn Wall.
19
00:01:57,284 --> 00:02:00,151
3,000 feet
of straight-up granite.
20
00:02:08,920 --> 00:02:10,831
A climb watched by the world.
21
00:02:11,048 --> 00:02:14,586
These guys have
captured the world's attention.
22
00:02:16,386 --> 00:02:18,593
They're trying to make history.
23
00:02:18,805 --> 00:02:22,594
El Capitan's infamous Dawn Wall.
24
00:02:36,990 --> 00:02:39,903
As a kid,
Tommy was slow at everything.
25
00:02:44,164 --> 00:02:46,622
He had a lot of difficulty
in school.
26
00:02:46,833 --> 00:02:49,450
The teachers actually
at one point told us
27
00:02:49,670 --> 00:02:52,128
that he was mentally retarded
and would never learn.
28
00:02:52,339 --> 00:02:57,505
I was developmentally delayed
through... probably still.
29
00:03:00,514 --> 00:03:03,006
I was this very fragile
little kid,
30
00:03:03,225 --> 00:03:04,932
incredibly shy.
31
00:03:05,143 --> 00:03:09,683
But meanwhile, my dad was,
like, the symbol of a man.
32
00:03:12,567 --> 00:03:16,026
He was this big bodybuilder dude
and mountain climber.
33
00:03:16,863 --> 00:03:18,194
Larger than life.
34
00:03:18,407 --> 00:03:20,148
Tommy was small.
35
00:03:20,367 --> 00:03:22,699
He was way behind.
36
00:03:22,911 --> 00:03:25,118
Didn't crawl until he was
over two.
37
00:03:25,330 --> 00:03:26,741
I think my dad felt
38
00:03:26,957 --> 00:03:29,119
the best way to prepare this
fragile little kid for the world
39
00:03:29,334 --> 00:03:31,666
was to toughen him up
a little bit.
40
00:03:34,172 --> 00:03:36,038
So he took me
on all these adventures.
41
00:03:36,258 --> 00:03:38,090
Three years old,
strap on the skis.
42
00:03:38,301 --> 00:03:40,838
Camping in a snow cave
during a blizzard.
43
00:03:41,054 --> 00:03:44,092
Every summer, we'd go
to Yosemite with my family,
44
00:03:44,307 --> 00:03:47,299
and my dad would take me
climbing on these giant walls.
45
00:03:47,519 --> 00:03:51,387
Some of the craziest climbing
stunts you could ever do,
46
00:03:51,606 --> 00:03:53,347
and he did it
with a six-year-old.
47
00:03:56,153 --> 00:03:58,485
The things
that Tommy's dad took him on,
48
00:03:58,697 --> 00:04:01,189
today you would have
Child Protective Services
49
00:04:01,408 --> 00:04:02,739
coming after you.
50
00:04:02,951 --> 00:04:07,286
He basically took hardship
and rephrased it as growth.
51
00:04:07,497 --> 00:04:11,365
He was loving,
but he definitely let me suffer.
52
00:04:11,585 --> 00:04:15,078
The word that was in my mind
was resilience.
53
00:04:15,297 --> 00:04:17,880
It seems to me one of the
best gifts you can give your kid
54
00:04:18,091 --> 00:04:20,583
is an ability
to deal with adversity.
55
00:04:24,181 --> 00:04:26,513
By the time
I was 14 or 15,
56
00:04:26,725 --> 00:04:30,593
there was climbs that I could do
that my dad couldn't.
57
00:04:30,812 --> 00:04:31,973
Tommy's strong.
58
00:04:32,189 --> 00:04:33,930
Climbing was
the first thing in my life
59
00:04:34,149 --> 00:04:35,981
where I could stand out
a little bit.
60
00:04:36,193 --> 00:04:37,649
Alright. Woo!
61
00:04:40,197 --> 00:04:41,528
So Tommy was 16,
62
00:04:41,740 --> 00:04:44,903
and Snowbird held the Snowbird
Invitational that year.
63
00:04:45,118 --> 00:04:46,825
This big
climbing competition.
64
00:04:47,037 --> 00:04:49,278
We thought we'd drive over there
and watch the comp
65
00:04:49,498 --> 00:04:50,659
and get some autographs.
66
00:04:50,874 --> 00:04:52,990
We just went there
to be fans, really.
67
00:04:53,210 --> 00:04:54,951
And the day before
the big competition,
68
00:04:55,170 --> 00:04:57,787
they had a Citizens' Comp that
anybody who shows up can enter.
69
00:04:58,006 --> 00:05:01,169
So I entered that,
my first competition ever.
70
00:05:01,384 --> 00:05:03,716
Well, Tommy won.
71
00:05:03,929 --> 00:05:06,261
And I don't know
if this was an official policy
72
00:05:06,473 --> 00:05:08,510
or just something
they dreamt up on the spot,
73
00:05:08,725 --> 00:05:10,056
but they asked Tommy
74
00:05:10,268 --> 00:05:13,010
if he wanted to enter the
World Invitational the next day.
75
00:05:13,230 --> 00:05:14,686
Hello, everyone.
I'm James Brown,
76
00:05:14,898 --> 00:05:16,229
and welcome to Snowbird, Utah,
77
00:05:16,441 --> 00:05:18,398
for the International
Sport Climbing Championship.
78
00:05:18,610 --> 00:05:20,567
Expert climbers
will test their skills
79
00:05:20,779 --> 00:05:24,363
against a man-made
120-foot wall.
80
00:05:24,574 --> 00:05:26,064
There were 12 competitors.
81
00:05:26,284 --> 00:05:28,901
- The icons of climbing.
- It was so intimidating.
82
00:05:34,584 --> 00:05:35,995
Nobody had ever
heard of me.
83
00:05:36,211 --> 00:05:37,952
I was just
this scrawny little kid.
84
00:05:38,171 --> 00:05:40,583
I was videoing Tommy as he goes
climbing up this thing.
85
00:05:45,846 --> 00:05:47,052
Come on, Tommy.
86
00:05:50,934 --> 00:05:52,925
He got past
the final roof.
87
00:05:54,396 --> 00:05:56,137
So Tommy's winning.
88
00:05:59,025 --> 00:06:00,936
Alright, Tommy!
89
00:06:01,152 --> 00:06:02,313
And I started shaking.
90
00:06:06,950 --> 00:06:08,486
I just dropped the camera.
91
00:06:08,702 --> 00:06:10,443
I mean I completely lost it.
92
00:06:11,705 --> 00:06:12,866
Tommy got to the top.
93
00:06:14,207 --> 00:06:17,165
The only climber
to complete this climb.
94
00:06:17,377 --> 00:06:20,790
So all of a sudden,
Tommy went from nobody at all
95
00:06:21,006 --> 00:06:23,043
to winner of Snowbird
96
00:06:23,258 --> 00:06:25,295
I mean,
that was just unbelievable.
97
00:06:25,510 --> 00:06:27,968
It changed his whole life.
98
00:06:28,179 --> 00:06:29,465
Tommy became known
99
00:06:29,681 --> 00:06:31,547
as one of the best
young climbers.
100
00:06:31,766 --> 00:06:32,756
But he didn't grow up
101
00:06:32,976 --> 00:06:34,216
the way most of us do.
102
00:06:34,436 --> 00:06:36,222
Through high school
he didn't have girlfriends.
103
00:06:36,438 --> 00:06:39,396
He didn't have a social life.
He just went climbing.
104
00:06:43,737 --> 00:06:46,274
I was doing
this series of competitions,
105
00:06:46,489 --> 00:06:49,072
and I met this girl, Beth.
106
00:06:49,284 --> 00:06:52,151
She just caught my attention
totally. I was like, "Woah!"
107
00:06:52,370 --> 00:06:56,785
Tommy just had this really big,
goofy, endearing grin.
108
00:06:57,000 --> 00:07:00,334
We both lived and breathed
climbing.
109
00:07:00,545 --> 00:07:02,661
Tommy's
this climbing savant,
110
00:07:02,881 --> 00:07:07,296
and then he meets Beth,
the female version of himself.
111
00:07:07,510 --> 00:07:09,046
He's head over heels.
112
00:07:09,262 --> 00:07:11,629
I just found ways
to go wherever she was.
113
00:07:11,848 --> 00:07:13,964
- OK?
- Yeah.
114
00:07:14,184 --> 00:07:16,801
I found out
she was going to Yosemite,
115
00:07:17,020 --> 00:07:19,307
so I followed her out there.
116
00:07:19,522 --> 00:07:22,935
We ended up climbing
a big wall together.
117
00:07:23,151 --> 00:07:25,267
You know, we were
next to each other all the time.
118
00:07:25,487 --> 00:07:27,319
24 hours a day together.
119
00:07:27,530 --> 00:07:30,488
Sleeping 1,000 feet off
the ground on this portaledge,
120
00:07:30,700 --> 00:07:33,032
which is like a hanging cot.
121
00:07:33,244 --> 00:07:36,453
You sleep head to toe.
There's just more room that way.
122
00:07:36,665 --> 00:07:38,121
Sol laid down,
123
00:07:38,333 --> 00:07:40,074
and she laid down
the same way that I was,
124
00:07:40,293 --> 00:07:42,034
with her head at the same end.
125
00:07:42,253 --> 00:07:43,664
And I was
pretty excited by this.
126
00:07:43,880 --> 00:07:47,748
I was like, "Ooh, goodness.
This is getting exciting."
127
00:07:49,386 --> 00:07:50,842
I just hadn't been
in love before,
128
00:07:51,054 --> 00:07:54,217
and I just fell hardcore,
right off the bat.
129
00:07:56,393 --> 00:07:58,009
It just clicked.
130
00:07:58,228 --> 00:08:02,222
We had so many dreams of
traveling and climbing together.
131
00:08:04,234 --> 00:08:07,477
And then we got invited
to go on a big adventure trip.
132
00:08:07,696 --> 00:08:10,188
An expedition to Kyrgyzstan.
133
00:08:10,407 --> 00:08:12,899
Kyrgyzstan is this beautiful,
mountainous country
134
00:08:13,118 --> 00:08:14,404
in Central Asia.
135
00:08:14,619 --> 00:08:18,032
We'd seen pictures from friends
that had been there,
136
00:08:18,248 --> 00:08:19,909
and it looked like a paradise
for climbers.
137
00:08:20,125 --> 00:08:22,867
I was a photographer
working in the outdoor industry.
138
00:08:23,086 --> 00:08:25,919
And this amazing opportunity
came about for me
139
00:08:26,131 --> 00:08:29,169
to shoot an expedition
with Beth and Tommy and Jason.
140
00:08:29,384 --> 00:08:31,967
We were just four young climbers
looking for a big adventure
141
00:08:32,178 --> 00:08:35,387
in a new and unusual part
of the world.
142
00:08:35,598 --> 00:08:39,011
We charter a helicopter
into the Kara-Su Valley.
143
00:08:39,227 --> 00:08:41,264
Unbelievably beautiful.
144
00:08:41,479 --> 00:08:44,062
Just felt like
a dream come true,
145
00:08:44,274 --> 00:08:45,890
out in the middle
of this adventure
146
00:08:46,109 --> 00:08:48,350
with this girl
that I was totally in love with.
147
00:08:49,946 --> 00:08:51,357
A week-and-a-half into our trip,
148
00:08:51,573 --> 00:08:53,359
the four of us were sleeping
in portaledges
149
00:08:53,575 --> 00:08:55,065
1,000 feet up the wall,
150
00:08:55,285 --> 00:08:58,448
and we wake up to gunshots...
151
00:08:58,663 --> 00:09:00,620
...these piercing,
close gunshots.
152
00:09:02,459 --> 00:09:04,416
The bullets hitting the wall
right between our portaledges.
153
00:09:04,627 --> 00:09:05,867
We're sitting there like,
154
00:09:06,087 --> 00:09:07,703
"Oh, my God,
we're getting shot at."
155
00:09:07,922 --> 00:09:09,504
And you can't run away.
You can't do anything.
156
00:09:09,716 --> 00:09:11,548
We're just sitting ducks
up here.
157
00:09:11,760 --> 00:09:15,048
We look down,
and you could see these figures.
158
00:09:15,263 --> 00:09:17,925
These guys
waving at us to come down.
159
00:09:18,141 --> 00:09:19,927
We rappelled down
to the ground.
160
00:09:20,143 --> 00:09:24,182
We're encountered
by four guys, heavily armed.
161
00:09:24,397 --> 00:09:25,979
They took us
to our base camp.
162
00:09:26,191 --> 00:09:27,647
All of our tents
were cut open.
163
00:09:27,859 --> 00:09:29,566
A lot of our food
was splayed around the meadow.
164
00:09:29,778 --> 00:09:31,610
They had us start
hiding our camp.
165
00:09:31,821 --> 00:09:35,780
And so suddenly, it hits us,
we're hostages right now.
166
00:09:45,376 --> 00:09:46,992
Later,
we learned that these guys
167
00:09:47,212 --> 00:09:49,670
were part of the
Islamic Movement of Uzbekistan,
168
00:09:49,881 --> 00:09:52,748
these rebels that wanted
to overthrow the government.
169
00:09:55,261 --> 00:09:57,252
We were caught up
in this battle
170
00:09:57,472 --> 00:10:00,305
between these rebels
and the Kyrgyz military.
171
00:10:01,684 --> 00:10:02,890
All of a sudden,
172
00:10:03,103 --> 00:10:04,639
Kyrgyz military helicopters
started to fly over,
173
00:10:04,854 --> 00:10:07,471
soldiers show up
on the hillside,
174
00:10:07,690 --> 00:10:09,852
and this battle breaks out.
175
00:10:10,068 --> 00:10:12,685
The rebels start pointing their
guns at us, yelling, "Hide!"
176
00:10:12,904 --> 00:10:14,815
Then we dive in these trees.
177
00:10:15,031 --> 00:10:17,648
The rebels had taken
a Kyrgyz soldier hostage.
178
00:10:17,867 --> 00:10:19,153
They took the other captive.
179
00:10:19,369 --> 00:10:20,985
And they just shot him
in the head.
180
00:10:23,581 --> 00:10:25,367
I just remember
shaking uncontrollably
181
00:10:25,583 --> 00:10:27,870
and Tommy just holding me
as tight as he could.
182
00:10:28,086 --> 00:10:30,418
Are they just going to
kill us next?
183
00:10:33,216 --> 00:10:35,878
Once it's dark,
the gunfire dies down.
184
00:10:36,094 --> 00:10:39,632
And the rebels start marching us
through the mountains.
185
00:10:43,977 --> 00:10:48,221
It's four rebels,
the four of us.
186
00:10:48,439 --> 00:10:50,976
It's really cold.
We're 11,000 feet in elevation.
187
00:10:51,192 --> 00:10:52,682
We don't have warm clothes.
188
00:10:52,902 --> 00:10:54,358
We don't have any food.
189
00:10:54,571 --> 00:10:57,654
We had no idea
where we were going.
190
00:10:57,866 --> 00:11:00,198
We would
hike through the night,
191
00:11:01,828 --> 00:11:04,741
and then during the day,
they would hide us.
192
00:11:06,082 --> 00:11:08,744
They hid us
in the craziest spots.
193
00:11:08,960 --> 00:11:11,042
Burying us
in holes in the ground
194
00:11:11,254 --> 00:11:14,417
so that we wouldn't be seen
by the military.
195
00:11:14,632 --> 00:11:16,293
This went on
for six days.
196
00:11:16,509 --> 00:11:20,093
Day two or three,
hunger really started to set in.
197
00:11:20,305 --> 00:11:23,093
You know,
we're sort of just wasting away.
198
00:11:23,308 --> 00:11:25,595
I thought they're
taking us back to their base
199
00:11:25,810 --> 00:11:28,472
or they're taking us somewhere,
there's a purpose to this.
200
00:11:28,688 --> 00:11:30,304
Finally, we realized
201
00:11:30,523 --> 00:11:32,935
they were leading us
in a giant circle.
202
00:11:33,151 --> 00:11:36,234
Like, these guys
clearly don't have a plan.
203
00:11:36,446 --> 00:11:39,859
Jason and John started to scheme
about how we could get away.
204
00:11:40,074 --> 00:11:41,906
I mean, things were getting
super desperate.
205
00:11:42,118 --> 00:11:44,735
They were ready to take matters
into their own hands.
206
00:11:44,954 --> 00:11:47,286
At one point,
two of our captors left.
207
00:11:47,498 --> 00:11:49,409
We never saw them again.
208
00:11:49,626 --> 00:11:53,039
We found out later
that they got killed.
209
00:11:53,254 --> 00:11:55,962
On our sixth night of captivity,
210
00:11:56,174 --> 00:11:58,541
the two captors
that were remaining with us
211
00:11:58,760 --> 00:12:00,797
decided that one of them
would go in one direction
212
00:12:01,012 --> 00:12:02,173
to try and get some food
213
00:12:02,388 --> 00:12:04,550
and then we would head off
with the other one.
214
00:12:09,562 --> 00:12:12,054
So we get left alone
with the one rebel,
215
00:12:12,273 --> 00:12:14,310
climbing up this cliff side.
216
00:12:14,525 --> 00:12:17,734
We were comfortable
on the terrain, and he was not.
217
00:12:17,946 --> 00:12:21,439
If we're going to escape,
this is the opportunity.
218
00:12:21,658 --> 00:12:23,274
Jason and John decided
219
00:12:23,493 --> 00:12:27,202
they would try and push our
remaining captor off this cliff
220
00:12:27,413 --> 00:12:28,744
and then run away.
221
00:12:28,957 --> 00:12:30,823
John and I were trying
to look for a point
222
00:12:31,042 --> 00:12:32,032
that we could throw him off.
223
00:12:32,252 --> 00:12:34,994
But we kept going
and kept going.
224
00:12:35,213 --> 00:12:37,580
We just couldn't quite push him.
225
00:12:39,050 --> 00:12:40,381
As we got to the top,
226
00:12:40,593 --> 00:12:43,676
I realized that our opportunity
was going to be over.
227
00:12:49,727 --> 00:12:53,595
And I decided that this was
what I had to do.
228
00:12:53,815 --> 00:12:57,524
I had to go and I needed
to push this guy off this cliff
229
00:12:57,735 --> 00:12:59,191
in order to save our lives.
230
00:12:59,404 --> 00:13:02,237
Tommy came over to me
at this point, and he said,
231
00:13:02,448 --> 00:13:04,064
"Do you think I should do this?"
232
00:13:04,284 --> 00:13:06,275
I was thinking,
"Yes, no, yes, no."
233
00:13:06,494 --> 00:13:08,451
So I just didn't say anything.
234
00:13:08,663 --> 00:13:12,952
I took that as
that she would be OK with it.
235
00:13:15,253 --> 00:13:18,917
So I just ran up behind him
236
00:13:19,132 --> 00:13:24,218
and I put one hand on his back
and grabbed his gun strap.
237
00:13:24,429 --> 00:13:27,717
And my other hand
went on his chest
238
00:13:27,932 --> 00:13:30,173
and I just gave a push...
239
00:13:34,230 --> 00:13:36,471
...to send him flying off
this cliff.
240
00:13:43,072 --> 00:13:44,779
We saw him hit a ledge,
241
00:13:44,991 --> 00:13:47,983
bounce off of it, and just fall
out of sight into the darkness.
242
00:13:51,456 --> 00:13:52,946
Tommy completely broke down,
243
00:13:53,166 --> 00:13:55,578
had his head in his arms
and he was crying.
244
00:13:55,793 --> 00:13:57,625
I couldn't believe
what I had just done.
245
00:13:57,837 --> 00:13:59,544
I had just killed somebody.
246
00:13:59,756 --> 00:14:03,966
The whole world came
crashing down on me all at once.
247
00:14:04,177 --> 00:14:06,919
We were all trying
to reassure him and say that,
248
00:14:07,138 --> 00:14:09,755
"You're not a bad person,
you just saved our lives."
249
00:14:09,974 --> 00:14:11,590
They really tried
to comfort me.
250
00:14:11,809 --> 00:14:13,846
But there was a sense of urgency
that we better get going,
251
00:14:14,062 --> 00:14:17,396
because we didn't know if the
other captor was gonna show up.
252
00:14:17,607 --> 00:14:19,848
We knew
from hiking in earlier
253
00:14:20,068 --> 00:14:23,231
where there was a military
outpost we could try and run to.
254
00:14:23,446 --> 00:14:25,858
So even on almost no food
for six days,
255
00:14:26,074 --> 00:14:27,280
adrenaline kicked in.
256
00:14:27,492 --> 00:14:28,948
So we ran for four hours.
257
00:14:29,160 --> 00:14:31,026
Through the darkness
down this valley.
258
00:14:31,245 --> 00:14:33,782
We were greeted by this
man yelling at us with this gun.
259
00:14:33,998 --> 00:14:36,831
Throw up our hands, start
yelling that we're Americans.
260
00:14:37,043 --> 00:14:39,159
And luckily,
it was the Kyrgyz army.
261
00:14:39,379 --> 00:14:42,371
This huge wave of relief
came over us.
262
00:14:42,590 --> 00:14:47,005
This horrible situation
that we had been in was over.
263
00:14:48,554 --> 00:14:52,388
They gave us food and water,
military fatigues.
264
00:14:52,600 --> 00:14:54,762
And then we got
helicoptered out from there.
265
00:15:00,775 --> 00:15:03,608
From our studios
in New York, here's Jane Pauley.
266
00:15:03,820 --> 00:15:06,903
Four young Americans
face a life or death choice,
267
00:15:07,115 --> 00:15:11,234
with the ultimate question,
to kill or be killed?
268
00:15:11,452 --> 00:15:14,945
When we got home, there
was this crazy media circus.
269
00:15:15,164 --> 00:15:17,872
You guys are walking
with this captor
270
00:15:18,084 --> 00:15:19,916
on a very rocky cliff.
271
00:15:20,128 --> 00:15:21,334
Tell me what you did, Tommy.
272
00:15:21,546 --> 00:15:24,504
We just ended up
pushing the guy.
273
00:15:24,715 --> 00:15:26,171
- You pushed him over the cliff.
- Yeah.
274
00:15:26,384 --> 00:15:28,250
What happened at that moment
when you realized,
275
00:15:28,469 --> 00:15:30,506
I've actually done this,
I've killed somebody?
276
00:15:30,721 --> 00:15:34,009
I thought that I was
an evil person. I said to Beth,
277
00:15:34,225 --> 00:15:37,638
"How can you love me after I did
something like this?"
278
00:15:37,854 --> 00:15:39,686
And, uh...
279
00:15:41,816 --> 00:15:43,181
After Kyrgyzstan,
280
00:15:43,401 --> 00:15:45,608
Tommy had tremendous
personality changes.
281
00:15:45,820 --> 00:15:47,652
Speaking so softly.
282
00:15:47,864 --> 00:15:51,698
I was like, what is inside me
that allowed me to do this?
283
00:15:53,411 --> 00:15:56,073
Just an entirely
different person.
284
00:16:37,622 --> 00:16:38,783
Yosemite is known
285
00:16:38,998 --> 00:16:41,831
as the Mecca
of world rock climbing.
286
00:16:44,879 --> 00:16:48,747
And the crown jewel
of this Mecca is El Capitan.
287
00:16:50,301 --> 00:16:54,841
It's just this iconic
3,000 foot high monolith.
288
00:16:55,056 --> 00:16:57,093
When you see that thing
for the first time,
289
00:16:57,308 --> 00:16:59,891
it takes your breath away.
290
00:17:00,102 --> 00:17:04,687
The steepest, blankest,
most forlorn...
291
00:17:04,899 --> 00:17:06,936
impressive part of El Cap
292
00:17:07,151 --> 00:17:09,108
is the Dawn Wall.
293
00:17:11,322 --> 00:17:14,064
People have done a handful
of free climbs up El Cap
294
00:17:14,283 --> 00:17:16,274
to the right and to the left.
295
00:17:17,620 --> 00:17:21,705
But the Dawn Wall
has never been climbed.
296
00:17:21,916 --> 00:17:25,580
Just the sheer magnitude
of blank rock on the thing,
297
00:17:25,795 --> 00:17:28,127
it just looks impossible.
298
00:17:29,423 --> 00:17:32,040
Until Tommy Caldwell came along,
299
00:17:32,260 --> 00:17:36,094
nobody had actually
considered trying it.
300
00:17:36,305 --> 00:17:40,014
If Tommy and his partner Kevin
can actually do this,
301
00:17:40,226 --> 00:17:45,517
it will be the most continuously
difficult rock climb ever done.
302
00:17:47,733 --> 00:17:50,100
Nothing else
is even close to it.
303
00:17:52,488 --> 00:17:54,525
It's December 27th,
304
00:17:54,740 --> 00:17:58,404
and we're planning on heading up
for like two weeks plus.
305
00:17:59,328 --> 00:18:01,069
We'll see.
306
00:18:01,289 --> 00:18:04,748
The goal is climb it
in a single push,
307
00:18:04,959 --> 00:18:07,041
which means we're going to
leave the ground,
308
00:18:07,253 --> 00:18:08,994
live on the wall,
309
00:18:10,756 --> 00:18:13,919
and not come down
until we're done.
310
00:18:16,470 --> 00:18:17,960
We're going for it.
311
00:18:18,180 --> 00:18:19,887
I'm nervous.
312
00:18:20,099 --> 00:18:24,468
We've put in so much work
leading up to this moment.
313
00:18:24,687 --> 00:18:27,600
There's nothing left to do
but take a couple deep breaths
314
00:18:27,815 --> 00:18:29,180
and start climbing.
315
00:18:29,942 --> 00:18:32,434
Day one.
316
00:18:32,653 --> 00:18:33,984
Yup.
317
00:18:36,157 --> 00:18:37,522
This is going to be awesome.
318
00:18:40,620 --> 00:18:43,408
The Dawn Wall itself
is 3,000 feet tall.
319
00:18:44,957 --> 00:18:47,790
The route that they think
they have figured out
320
00:18:48,002 --> 00:18:51,836
is comprised of
32 individual pitches.
321
00:18:52,048 --> 00:18:56,838
Each pitch is its own challenge,
like the stages of a race.
322
00:18:59,555 --> 00:19:03,469
A pitch is a rope-length long,
about 150 feet or so.
323
00:19:03,684 --> 00:19:05,049
And ends of the ledge
324
00:19:05,269 --> 00:19:08,512
are a natural resting place
on the rock.
325
00:19:08,731 --> 00:19:10,472
Yeah, man. Good work.
326
00:19:10,691 --> 00:19:12,056
When you end the pitch,
327
00:19:12,276 --> 00:19:14,313
you anchor yourself
to the wall...
328
00:19:14,528 --> 00:19:17,862
One down,
thirty-something to go.
329
00:19:18,074 --> 00:19:21,066
...and hold the rope or
belay as your partner comes up.
330
00:19:22,787 --> 00:19:24,824
Once you've both done
that pitch without falling,
331
00:19:25,039 --> 00:19:27,076
you can move on
to the next pitch.
332
00:19:29,960 --> 00:19:31,325
When you're
free-climbing,
333
00:19:31,545 --> 00:19:33,286
you're using
your hands and feet
334
00:19:33,506 --> 00:19:35,838
to climb the natural features
on the rock
335
00:19:36,050 --> 00:19:38,667
without any assistance
from the rope.
336
00:19:39,929 --> 00:19:41,511
- Good job.
- Yeah, man.
337
00:19:41,722 --> 00:19:44,305
You take turns
leading each pitch,
338
00:19:44,517 --> 00:19:47,885
placing protection in the cracks
to catch you in case you fall.
339
00:19:49,397 --> 00:19:51,604
Yeah, come on.
You got it.
340
00:19:51,816 --> 00:19:53,682
Ugh! Oh!
341
00:19:56,862 --> 00:19:58,899
If you fall,
342
00:19:59,115 --> 00:20:03,154
you just go back down
to the beginning of that pitch,
343
00:20:03,369 --> 00:20:05,986
and then the other guy tries it.
344
00:20:06,205 --> 00:20:08,037
They have
a certain number of pitches
345
00:20:08,249 --> 00:20:10,035
they're trying to get through
each day
346
00:20:10,251 --> 00:20:12,913
to stay on track
to finish this climb.
347
00:20:13,129 --> 00:20:16,667
The first few pitches
are relatively easy.
348
00:20:16,882 --> 00:20:19,123
But as you get higher
on the wall...
349
00:20:22,346 --> 00:20:24,713
...the wall gets steeper,
350
00:20:25,808 --> 00:20:27,890
the holes get smaller,
351
00:20:29,145 --> 00:20:31,853
and the climbing
gets way more difficult.
352
00:20:37,236 --> 00:20:39,352
It's hard to articulate
353
00:20:39,572 --> 00:20:41,984
the level of detail
that's required.
354
00:20:44,618 --> 00:20:48,111
You can't make any mistake
in where you grab the hold
355
00:20:48,330 --> 00:20:51,038
and how you place your toe.
356
00:20:51,250 --> 00:20:55,164
You're pushing and pulling
as hard as you possibly can,
357
00:20:55,379 --> 00:20:57,837
always on the verge
of slipping off.
358
00:21:02,094 --> 00:21:03,801
Argh!
359
00:21:04,013 --> 00:21:05,595
Oh, no!
360
00:21:05,806 --> 00:21:08,343
- Oh!
- Oh, foot slip.
361
00:21:10,436 --> 00:21:13,224
We climb all day
into the night,
362
00:21:13,439 --> 00:21:17,228
trying the same pitch
until we both do it.
363
00:21:24,492 --> 00:21:25,948
Come on, Tommy!
364
00:21:27,870 --> 00:21:29,360
Come on!
365
00:21:31,540 --> 00:21:34,157
Man, I'm getting tired.
366
00:21:34,376 --> 00:21:36,367
Tommy is just
a man possessed.
367
00:21:36,587 --> 00:21:38,749
Come on. Finish this.
368
00:21:40,216 --> 00:21:41,547
Yeah, come on.
369
00:21:43,052 --> 00:21:44,383
Yeah, man.
370
00:21:44,595 --> 00:21:47,257
'Lee-hoe!
371
00:21:47,473 --> 00:21:48,804
And I'm just trying to keep up.
372
00:21:49,016 --> 00:21:50,677
You got it, Kevin.
Come on!
373
00:21:50,893 --> 00:21:53,885
Come on! Come on!
Come on!
374
00:21:54,104 --> 00:21:55,970
Yeah, that was awesome, dude.
375
00:21:56,190 --> 00:21:58,101
Thank God I didn't fall.
376
00:21:59,026 --> 00:22:00,232
Nice, man.
377
00:22:00,444 --> 00:22:02,435
When you're trying
a big wall like this,
378
00:22:02,655 --> 00:22:04,020
the work does not end
379
00:22:04,240 --> 00:22:06,823
once the climbing is done
at the end of the day.
380
00:22:07,034 --> 00:22:09,901
You've got to haul up
hundreds of pounds of gear,
381
00:22:10,120 --> 00:22:11,986
set up portaledges...
382
00:22:12,206 --> 00:22:16,245
This seems pretty good.
Pretty flat, even, I would say.
383
00:22:16,460 --> 00:22:18,292
...and gag down some food.
384
00:22:18,504 --> 00:22:21,496
I actually brought
a bag of kale on the wall
385
00:22:21,715 --> 00:22:24,298
to put it in our burritos.
Mmh!
386
00:22:29,890 --> 00:22:32,882
This is the hardest thing you
could ever do on your fingers,
387
00:22:33,102 --> 00:22:34,638
climbing this route.
388
00:22:34,854 --> 00:22:36,640
It's just grabbing razor blades.
389
00:22:36,856 --> 00:22:39,814
I tape up any wounds
with Neosporin for healing.
390
00:22:40,025 --> 00:22:42,892
Then I wake up probably
twice in the night and reapply.
391
00:22:43,112 --> 00:22:46,480
Getting pretty obsessed
with my lips.
392
00:22:46,699 --> 00:22:48,906
Then you've got to hope
you can get a little sleep.
393
00:22:49,118 --> 00:22:52,861
The next day is going to be
more of the same, but harder.
394
00:22:53,080 --> 00:22:55,162
And it's going to go on
day after clay,
395
00:22:55,374 --> 00:22:58,241
two weeks, three weeks.
Nobody knows.
396
00:23:10,598 --> 00:23:12,555
After Kyrgyzstan,
397
00:23:13,976 --> 00:23:16,559
we're trying to absorb
what had happened.
398
00:23:19,148 --> 00:23:21,810
Beth is really traumatized.
399
00:23:22,026 --> 00:23:24,518
I started to have
nightmares and couldn't sleep.
400
00:23:24,737 --> 00:23:28,150
I did not want to be separated
from Tommy at that point.
401
00:23:28,365 --> 00:23:31,232
Beth and I are bonded
at the hip. I'm her rock.
402
00:23:31,452 --> 00:23:32,658
We go to church a few times.
403
00:23:32,870 --> 00:23:34,531
We hadn't been to church
in ten years.
404
00:23:34,747 --> 00:23:37,079
We're just searching.
We're like, what does this mean?
405
00:23:37,291 --> 00:23:38,577
We go to a therapist.
406
00:23:38,792 --> 00:23:41,033
It's like nobody knows
how to deal with this situation.
407
00:23:42,796 --> 00:23:44,662
I think my way
of dealing with it was
408
00:23:44,882 --> 00:23:48,671
you just get back on that horse
and go climb again.
409
00:23:51,347 --> 00:23:53,463
This has always been
my safe place,
410
00:23:53,682 --> 00:23:55,673
my way to deal with life.
411
00:23:59,939 --> 00:24:02,476
I didn't know what to think
about Kyrgyzstan.
412
00:24:03,984 --> 00:24:05,691
Part of me was feeling
kind of empowered.
413
00:24:05,903 --> 00:24:08,019
I was like, when the shit
really hit the fan,
414
00:24:08,238 --> 00:24:10,445
I was able to do
what needed to be done
415
00:24:10,658 --> 00:24:12,399
to get us out of there.
416
00:24:12,618 --> 00:24:14,609
Tommy jumped
right back into climbing,
417
00:24:14,828 --> 00:24:17,741
and slowly we got back
into our groove.
418
00:24:17,957 --> 00:24:20,619
We're both
professional rock climbers,
419
00:24:20,834 --> 00:24:23,826
doing these really cool climbs
all over the place.
420
00:24:24,046 --> 00:24:26,754
He started
setting these lofty goals.
421
00:24:26,966 --> 00:24:29,799
Trying to climb
harder and harder routes.
422
00:24:30,010 --> 00:24:32,502
And then, about a year
after Kyrgyzstan,
423
00:24:32,721 --> 00:24:34,803
we were remodeling
this tiny little cabin.
424
00:24:37,184 --> 00:24:42,304
And Tommy was using
his parent's old table saw.
425
00:24:42,523 --> 00:24:44,855
Tommy did something
that you should never do,
426
00:24:45,067 --> 00:24:47,354
which is he tried
to pull a small piece of wood
427
00:24:47,569 --> 00:24:49,276
through the table saw.
428
00:24:49,488 --> 00:24:50,944
If the blade catches
on the wood,
429
00:24:51,156 --> 00:24:53,397
it sucks your hand
right back into the blade.
430
00:24:54,535 --> 00:24:55,821
I heard Tommy scream,
431
00:24:56,036 --> 00:24:57,367
"I fucking cut off my finger,
I cut off my finger."
432
00:24:57,579 --> 00:24:59,490
Completely cut his finger off
instantly.
433
00:24:59,707 --> 00:25:01,038
It was over in the bushes.
434
00:25:01,250 --> 00:25:03,207
Beth finds the finger
laying in this pile of sawdust.
435
00:25:03,419 --> 00:25:05,751
We throw it on ice,
drive to the hospital.
436
00:25:05,963 --> 00:25:08,751
My dad comes in, and he's like,
"You have to fix his finger."
437
00:25:08,966 --> 00:25:11,549
And so for two weeks,
they tried to reattach it.
438
00:25:11,760 --> 00:25:13,296
Three different surgeries.
439
00:25:13,512 --> 00:25:16,095
But it became apparent that the
finger wasn't going to survive.
440
00:25:19,560 --> 00:25:21,517
This one doctor
who was a climber
441
00:25:21,729 --> 00:25:24,096
came in and told Tommy
that he was going to have to
442
00:25:24,314 --> 00:25:25,770
come up with a new career now.
443
00:25:25,983 --> 00:25:29,692
There's no way he was going to
make it as a climber any longer.
444
00:25:30,529 --> 00:25:32,566
Oh, that was...
445
00:25:32,781 --> 00:25:35,523
either the wrong thing
or the right thing to say,
446
00:25:35,743 --> 00:25:37,575
because it sure fired him up.
447
00:25:37,786 --> 00:25:39,368
I was like, "Fuck that guy!"
448
00:25:39,580 --> 00:25:41,446
"He doesn't know
what I'm capable of."
449
00:25:41,665 --> 00:25:44,703
I remember the
first time he tried to climb.
450
00:25:44,918 --> 00:25:47,034
Good, Tommy.
451
00:25:48,589 --> 00:25:51,251
He was like, "Whoa!"
452
00:25:51,467 --> 00:25:52,673
You know, it's going to be hard.
453
00:25:52,885 --> 00:25:54,091
Good job, sweetie.
454
00:25:54,303 --> 00:25:56,089
When I heard
he cut his finger off, I go,
455
00:25:56,305 --> 00:25:58,467
"Well, so much
for Tommy Caldwell."
456
00:25:58,682 --> 00:25:59,922
The grip in climbing is,
457
00:26:00,142 --> 00:26:02,383
you wrap your thumb
over your finger like that
458
00:26:02,603 --> 00:26:04,139
and pull down
on the little edges,
459
00:26:04,354 --> 00:26:08,473
and if there's no finger there,
the physics are all wrong.
460
00:26:11,445 --> 00:26:13,607
I don't know about that.
461
00:26:13,822 --> 00:26:16,063
Everybody around me,
except for Beth and my parents,
462
00:26:16,283 --> 00:26:20,242
looked at me and they're like,
"He's done. That's so sad."
463
00:26:20,454 --> 00:26:22,036
I knew it wasn't
going to be easy.
464
00:26:22,247 --> 00:26:24,409
But ever since Kyrgyzstan,
465
00:26:24,625 --> 00:26:26,161
I just have this fire in me
466
00:26:26,376 --> 00:26:31,121
that is different than
anything I've had before.
467
00:26:31,340 --> 00:26:34,833
He had all these jars
of rice and beans and gravel.
468
00:26:35,052 --> 00:26:37,259
He's supposed to jam
that nub of a finger in there.
469
00:26:37,471 --> 00:26:39,178
I just abused the thing
470
00:26:39,389 --> 00:26:41,551
to retrain the nerves,
to toughen them up.
471
00:26:43,894 --> 00:26:46,886
Those six days of captivity
in Kyrgyzstan
472
00:26:48,190 --> 00:26:51,728
were so profoundly painful.
473
00:26:54,988 --> 00:26:57,229
At first, I felt overwhelmed
474
00:26:57,449 --> 00:27:01,864
with fear and fatigue
and hunger.
475
00:27:02,079 --> 00:27:05,617
But at some point,
I felt something come over me,
476
00:27:05,833 --> 00:27:08,040
this reserve of energy,
477
00:27:09,253 --> 00:27:10,869
this confidence.
478
00:27:11,088 --> 00:27:13,045
I knew I was cold,
I knew I was hungry,
479
00:27:13,257 --> 00:27:15,498
but those things
didn't matter anymore.
480
00:27:22,015 --> 00:27:27,260
I think we all have this idea
of where our limits lie.
481
00:27:27,479 --> 00:27:28,969
If you're hurting really bad,
482
00:27:29,189 --> 00:27:31,977
you get to a point where you're
like, "I can't endure any more."
483
00:27:32,192 --> 00:27:35,310
And it takes something
to force you past that.
484
00:27:36,905 --> 00:27:41,149
In Kyrgyzstan, I realized
that my preconceived limits
485
00:27:41,368 --> 00:27:43,826
were totally off base,
486
00:27:45,873 --> 00:27:47,489
that we're capable
of so much more
487
00:27:47,708 --> 00:27:50,416
than we really
could ever imagine.
488
00:27:56,091 --> 00:27:58,048
There was this really
hard climb nobody had done
489
00:27:58,260 --> 00:28:00,718
that he tried the year
before he cut off his finger,
490
00:28:00,929 --> 00:28:02,590
and he couldn't do it.
491
00:28:02,806 --> 00:28:04,922
A year later, he came back
without the finger
492
00:28:05,142 --> 00:28:06,849
and he did it.
493
00:28:07,060 --> 00:28:08,892
He cuts off his finger.
494
00:28:09,104 --> 00:28:11,345
"Oh, no big deal. I'll just
get better after that."
495
00:28:11,565 --> 00:28:13,977
I have no idea
how that's possible.
496
00:28:16,069 --> 00:28:18,936
That's when Tommy
took his game
497
00:28:19,156 --> 00:28:21,944
to the biggest stage on Earth,
which is El Cap.
498
00:28:22,159 --> 00:28:23,445
At that time,
499
00:28:23,660 --> 00:28:26,618
there were only a few
free climbs that went up El Cap.
500
00:28:26,830 --> 00:28:29,743
Some of the hardest
big wall climbs ever done.
501
00:28:29,958 --> 00:28:31,949
Just to claim
one of these routes
502
00:28:32,169 --> 00:28:35,082
would have been
a monumental achievement
503
00:28:35,297 --> 00:28:37,459
for the best climbers
in the world.
504
00:28:37,674 --> 00:28:39,711
And then Tommy
walks into the Valley,
505
00:28:39,927 --> 00:28:42,294
missing a finger,
506
00:28:42,512 --> 00:28:45,755
and just started knocking them
down, one after the other.
507
00:28:45,974 --> 00:28:49,512
Over the next five years,
he went on a rampage.
508
00:28:49,728 --> 00:28:52,186
I did basically all
the existing routes on El Cap.
509
00:28:52,397 --> 00:28:53,808
- Salathe Wall.
- The Zodiac.
510
00:28:54,024 --> 00:28:55,014
El Corazon.
511
00:28:55,234 --> 00:28:56,349
- Golden Gate.
- The Nose.
512
00:28:56,568 --> 00:28:58,525
Then he starts
speed climbing these routes,
513
00:28:58,737 --> 00:29:00,273
linking one into the other.
514
00:29:00,489 --> 00:29:03,072
Two El Cap routes
in a day.
515
00:29:03,283 --> 00:29:05,320
6,000 feet of climbing.
516
00:29:05,535 --> 00:29:06,696
That was unheard of.
517
00:29:06,912 --> 00:29:08,903
- You did it!
- Oh, my goodness.
518
00:29:09,122 --> 00:29:11,454
And then I started looking
for new routes.
519
00:29:11,667 --> 00:29:15,035
Tommy started looking
between the lines
520
00:29:15,254 --> 00:29:16,790
for his own first ascents.
521
00:29:17,005 --> 00:29:19,246
It added that element
of the unknown,
522
00:29:19,466 --> 00:29:22,675
this what-if, like,
maybe that could be climbed.
523
00:29:24,179 --> 00:29:26,216
I think Tommy
had become hypnotized
524
00:29:26,431 --> 00:29:29,298
trying to figure out,
where is the ultimate limit?
525
00:29:29,518 --> 00:29:31,008
Oh, shit.
526
00:29:32,646 --> 00:29:35,263
I did the first ascent
of the Muir Wall.
527
00:29:35,482 --> 00:29:37,519
- The West Buttress.
- Dihedral Wall.
528
00:29:37,734 --> 00:29:38,974
Magic Mushroom.
529
00:29:39,194 --> 00:29:41,435
Anybody that does
a first ascent on El Capitan
530
00:29:41,655 --> 00:29:42,986
has their place in history
forever.
531
00:29:43,198 --> 00:29:45,439
Tommy did five of them.
532
00:29:45,659 --> 00:29:48,117
Anything he could
dream up, he did it.
533
00:29:48,328 --> 00:29:51,491
And everyone in the climbing
world is like, "What the hell?"
534
00:29:53,583 --> 00:29:54,869
He's Mr. El Cap.
535
00:29:55,085 --> 00:29:57,543
The best
big wall climber ever.
536
00:29:59,506 --> 00:30:02,498
And Beth
was with him all the time,
537
00:30:02,718 --> 00:30:05,335
climbing all of these routes
together.
538
00:30:05,554 --> 00:30:07,261
We just poured
our hearts into climbing
539
00:30:07,472 --> 00:30:10,260
and supporting each other
on these goals.
540
00:30:10,475 --> 00:30:13,263
It was quite a team.
541
00:30:13,478 --> 00:30:15,970
They were known
as the first couple of climbing.
542
00:30:17,357 --> 00:30:19,644
There was one word -
Beth and Tommy.
543
00:30:22,821 --> 00:30:24,277
We get married.
544
00:30:24,489 --> 00:30:27,698
We ended up buying property
like 20 minutes from El Capitan
545
00:30:27,909 --> 00:30:29,445
and building a house there.
546
00:30:30,287 --> 00:30:31,743
We're nearly there!
547
00:30:31,955 --> 00:30:33,821
We were just
going to live in Yosemite
548
00:30:34,041 --> 00:30:36,328
and raise our kids there
and keep climbing.
549
00:30:36,543 --> 00:30:38,830
I was good friends
with them both,
550
00:30:39,046 --> 00:30:40,582
and we were next-door neighbors.
551
00:30:40,797 --> 00:30:42,162
They seemed so happy.
552
00:30:42,382 --> 00:30:43,872
I'm like, wow, this life
553
00:30:44,092 --> 00:30:46,254
that I never even saw coming
in the first place
554
00:30:46,470 --> 00:30:49,212
is starting
to just magically appear.
555
00:30:50,599 --> 00:30:54,388
Things are going
seemingly really well,
556
00:30:54,603 --> 00:30:58,141
at least from my mind.
557
00:30:58,357 --> 00:31:03,898
But I'm noticing, over time,
little cracks started to form.
558
00:31:04,112 --> 00:31:07,195
The first inklings
of almost hostility towards me.
559
00:31:08,450 --> 00:31:10,487
There was
all this weird tension.
560
00:31:10,702 --> 00:31:11,908
And I was just like,
561
00:31:12,120 --> 00:31:14,282
well, we've been together
for eight years now.
562
00:31:14,498 --> 00:31:16,284
Marriages go through
troubling times.
563
00:31:16,500 --> 00:31:22,371
We'll get through this
and just keep climbing.
564
00:31:22,589 --> 00:31:25,581
I think there was
a natural growing apart,
565
00:31:25,801 --> 00:31:28,589
desires we had
outside of climbing.
566
00:31:30,389 --> 00:31:32,881
I think going through
a super intense experience
567
00:31:33,100 --> 00:31:34,966
like Kyrgyzstan...
568
00:31:36,311 --> 00:31:38,222
I mean, we were so young.
569
00:31:38,438 --> 00:31:41,146
Years later, there's probably
a lot that started to come out,
570
00:31:41,358 --> 00:31:42,848
healing that I hadn't done.
571
00:31:43,068 --> 00:31:47,437
And at some point,
the climbing we had
572
00:31:47,656 --> 00:31:51,194
wasn't enough glue
to hold it together anymore.
573
00:31:51,410 --> 00:31:52,650
In Kyrgyzstan,
574
00:31:52,869 --> 00:31:56,612
Beth was extremely traumatized
by those six days,
575
00:31:56,832 --> 00:31:59,290
and Tommy was the person
who saved them.
576
00:31:59,501 --> 00:32:01,208
And so from that, I think
577
00:32:01,420 --> 00:32:04,663
a sort of dependency
probably developed
578
00:32:04,881 --> 00:32:09,591
that isn't necessarily
the same thing as true love.
579
00:32:10,429 --> 00:32:11,635
Eventually,
580
00:32:11,847 --> 00:32:14,589
she started feeling something
for somebody else.
581
00:32:15,851 --> 00:32:17,683
And...
582
00:32:19,521 --> 00:32:21,512
I don't know
how to summarize this.
583
00:32:21,731 --> 00:32:24,348
This is kind of a hard thing
to talk about, but...
584
00:32:24,568 --> 00:32:27,606
that relationship with her and
this other man just solidified
585
00:32:27,821 --> 00:32:29,812
in a way that she couldn't
walk away from that anymore.
586
00:32:30,031 --> 00:32:32,739
And she wanted that more
than she wanted me.
587
00:32:36,705 --> 00:32:39,788
Once the divorce
fully happened, I...
588
00:32:42,252 --> 00:32:44,664
Yeah, I was just crushed.
589
00:32:46,465 --> 00:32:49,082
I drove to the rim
of Yosemite Valley
590
00:32:49,301 --> 00:32:51,963
and was looking across
at El Capitan.
591
00:32:53,847 --> 00:32:57,260
It felt like
El Cap was all I had.
592
00:33:02,397 --> 00:33:03,728
Early in the morning,
593
00:33:03,940 --> 00:33:07,183
there's this one panel of
the Wall that illuminates first.
594
00:33:14,284 --> 00:33:16,867
That's why it's called
the Dawn Wall.
595
00:33:19,831 --> 00:33:23,495
The last unclimbed
big swath of stone.
596
00:33:23,710 --> 00:33:25,792
I had looked at it
a little bit before and knew
597
00:33:26,004 --> 00:33:28,746
that it was way too hard,
I'd never be able to do it.
598
00:33:30,634 --> 00:33:32,375
But I was just hurting so bad
599
00:33:32,594 --> 00:33:34,255
that I had to figure out
a distraction in life.
600
00:33:34,471 --> 00:33:38,009
I couldn't just sit there
and feel the pain.
601
00:33:40,435 --> 00:33:43,302
I decided to go up there alone
602
00:33:43,522 --> 00:33:47,140
and beat myself up on the Wall
as just a way to cope.
603
00:33:52,072 --> 00:33:54,780
I walked around the back
to the top of El Cap.
604
00:33:57,369 --> 00:33:59,986
I started rappelling down
from above.
605
00:34:00,205 --> 00:34:03,618
And I put in a camp
so I could stay up there.
606
00:34:03,833 --> 00:34:06,120
And I started going
through this process
607
00:34:06,336 --> 00:34:10,079
of searching for a way to climb
this section of the Wall.
608
00:34:13,718 --> 00:34:16,551
The specific path
was totally unknown.
609
00:34:18,598 --> 00:34:21,681
You look for weaknesses
in the rock.
610
00:34:21,893 --> 00:34:24,851
Corners that you can wedge
your body into.
611
00:34:25,063 --> 00:34:27,555
Cracks for your hands and toes.
612
00:34:27,774 --> 00:34:30,311
Little edges
for your fingertips.
613
00:34:30,527 --> 00:34:32,518
Anything that you could
possibly grab onto
614
00:34:32,737 --> 00:34:35,195
that would make this wall
climbable.
615
00:34:39,744 --> 00:34:41,951
At first, it was just
hanging on the rope,
616
00:34:43,582 --> 00:34:45,243
analyzing the surface
of the rock
617
00:34:45,458 --> 00:34:47,415
to see if there was holds.
618
00:34:51,923 --> 00:34:54,255
Just finding something
to obsess about
619
00:34:54,467 --> 00:34:57,835
so I wouldn't obsess
about my divorce.
620
00:34:58,054 --> 00:35:00,261
I think
it's probably important
621
00:35:00,473 --> 00:35:03,682
that it was an impossible level
of rock climbing.
622
00:35:03,893 --> 00:35:07,511
When you absorb yourself
in some magnificent challenge,
623
00:35:07,731 --> 00:35:10,564
there is no space to be thinking
about anything else.
624
00:35:14,070 --> 00:35:15,686
You know,
if you're heartbroken,
625
00:35:15,905 --> 00:35:19,944
just throw yourself
into an impossible wall.
626
00:35:20,160 --> 00:35:22,151
So I was sitting
up there through this storm.
627
00:35:22,370 --> 00:35:24,202
My wife has left me.
628
00:35:24,414 --> 00:35:26,576
She was the only person
I had climbed with
629
00:35:26,791 --> 00:35:29,408
for, like, ten years.
630
00:35:30,670 --> 00:35:32,707
In my portaledge at night,
631
00:35:32,922 --> 00:35:35,380
weeping and really
feeling sorry for myself,
632
00:35:35,592 --> 00:35:37,629
trying to find
this elusive thing
633
00:35:37,844 --> 00:35:39,551
that probably didn't even exist.
634
00:35:42,140 --> 00:35:43,426
I was concerned.
635
00:35:43,642 --> 00:35:45,804
He just seemed to be suffering
at that point.
636
00:35:46,019 --> 00:35:48,056
And I wanted to see
what this was all about,
637
00:35:48,271 --> 00:35:51,730
so early on in the game
I went up there with him.
638
00:35:51,941 --> 00:35:54,979
I convinced my dad
to come up there and belay me,
639
00:35:55,195 --> 00:36:00,065
so I could start actually trying
to climb sections of the route.
640
00:36:01,576 --> 00:36:04,489
What the heck?
641
00:36:04,704 --> 00:36:07,287
I really had my doubts
as to whether it was going to be
642
00:36:07,499 --> 00:36:09,285
a viable climb.
643
00:36:09,501 --> 00:36:10,662
- Be safe.
- I will.
644
00:36:10,877 --> 00:36:12,538
- Get strong.
- Yup.
645
00:36:12,754 --> 00:36:14,665
But during that period of time,
646
00:36:14,881 --> 00:36:18,090
he became convinced
that it was somehow possible.
647
00:36:20,303 --> 00:36:22,340
Tommy spent
an entire year
648
00:36:22,555 --> 00:36:26,219
swinging around looking
for a route up the Dawn Wall,
649
00:36:28,728 --> 00:36:30,435
trying to connect the dots
650
00:36:30,647 --> 00:36:32,888
from the bottom
all the way to the top
651
00:36:33,108 --> 00:36:37,352
so you can someday hope
to free climb the whole thing.
652
00:36:37,570 --> 00:36:39,937
Eventually,
I found a route
653
00:36:40,156 --> 00:36:43,444
that seemed like it was
theoretically possible,
654
00:36:43,660 --> 00:36:45,867
like I found the path
through the maze maybe.
655
00:36:46,746 --> 00:36:48,111
But I realized
656
00:36:48,331 --> 00:36:50,948
there was no way I was going
to be able to do this alone.
657
00:36:51,167 --> 00:36:55,161
It's just a monumental project.
658
00:36:55,380 --> 00:36:59,089
Without Beth,
I needed to find a partner,
659
00:37:01,010 --> 00:37:03,627
somebody that I could rely on
660
00:37:04,931 --> 00:37:06,888
to help me solve this puzzle.
661
00:37:32,208 --> 00:37:35,166
I should wake Kevin up
with some coffee.
662
00:37:38,465 --> 00:37:40,001
Just stretching.
663
00:37:40,216 --> 00:37:42,002
That's a good idea.
664
00:37:42,218 --> 00:37:44,550
I felt a little rugged
when I first woke up.
665
00:37:44,763 --> 00:37:45,878
But how are you feeling?
666
00:37:46,097 --> 00:37:48,259
Still stuffy and sore throat.
Kind of achy.
667
00:37:48,475 --> 00:37:51,263
I think I got
whatever you got.
668
00:37:56,816 --> 00:37:59,558
After the first
couple of days on the Wall,
669
00:37:59,778 --> 00:38:02,110
there's a small little cadre
of people down in the meadow
670
00:38:02,322 --> 00:38:04,313
following their progress.
671
00:38:04,532 --> 00:38:06,614
You can get a telescope
or a pair of binoculars,
672
00:38:06,826 --> 00:38:08,442
look up at this spectacle
happening.
673
00:38:08,661 --> 00:38:09,992
Oh, my God.
674
00:38:10,205 --> 00:38:12,913
Is he naked or what?
675
00:38:14,292 --> 00:38:15,828
My name is Tom Evans.
I've been
676
00:38:16,044 --> 00:38:18,456
for many years photographing
climbers on El Cap.
677
00:38:18,671 --> 00:38:20,332
I usually don't come
in the winter,
678
00:38:20,548 --> 00:38:22,630
but this is big news
in climbing.
679
00:38:22,842 --> 00:38:24,833
And we've all been pulling
for him for many years.
680
00:38:25,053 --> 00:38:26,543
I was on
a little vacation from work,
681
00:38:26,763 --> 00:38:28,504
and I decided to come out
from Sacramento
682
00:38:28,723 --> 00:38:31,055
to watch these guys climb
the Dawn Wall.
683
00:38:31,267 --> 00:38:33,224
It's definitely
a moment in history.
684
00:38:33,436 --> 00:38:35,347
To be able to be a part of that
and witness it
685
00:38:35,563 --> 00:38:36,894
is pretty phenomenal.
686
00:38:39,859 --> 00:38:42,271
Pushing forward.
687
00:38:42,487 --> 00:38:46,947
From here on up,
every pitch is pretty legit.
688
00:38:48,910 --> 00:38:51,277
We've got to pace ourselves.
689
00:38:51,496 --> 00:38:53,783
Maybe one or two pitches a day.
690
00:38:54,833 --> 00:38:56,494
Come on, Tommy.
691
00:38:59,546 --> 00:39:01,207
Good.
692
00:39:01,422 --> 00:39:02,708
Good, Tommy. Come on.
693
00:39:05,260 --> 00:39:06,341
Nice.
694
00:39:07,053 --> 00:39:08,043
Yeah.
695
00:39:12,934 --> 00:39:14,265
Come on.
696
00:39:14,477 --> 00:39:15,967
You got it.
697
00:39:16,187 --> 00:39:17,803
Yeah. Yeah, Kevin.
698
00:39:18,022 --> 00:39:20,480
Nice, dude.
699
00:39:20,692 --> 00:39:22,683
- Cool.
- Dude, that was sick.
700
00:39:22,902 --> 00:39:27,191
It's day three on the Wall,
and we sent pitch 10.
701
00:39:27,949 --> 00:39:29,189
Yeah!
702
00:39:29,409 --> 00:39:30,991
Yeah. Boom.
703
00:39:31,202 --> 00:39:33,113
- Things are going good.
- Things are going good.
704
00:39:34,873 --> 00:39:36,784
And the forecast
is calling
705
00:39:37,000 --> 00:39:39,412
for super cold windy temps
tomorrow,
706
00:39:39,627 --> 00:39:41,288
so we're going to rest.
707
00:39:43,464 --> 00:39:45,751
Urgent weather message.
708
00:39:45,967 --> 00:39:49,756
Winds, 50 miles per hour
with gusts 75 or higher.
709
00:39:49,971 --> 00:39:53,134
Impact... downed trees,
downed power lines,
710
00:39:53,349 --> 00:39:55,215
flying portaledges.
711
00:39:58,771 --> 00:40:00,853
These guys are up there
in the middle of winter,
712
00:40:01,065 --> 00:40:02,726
which is almost unheard of.
713
00:40:02,942 --> 00:40:04,933
But they need it to be
as cold as possible
714
00:40:05,153 --> 00:40:07,861
so they can stick
to the tiny holds
715
00:40:08,072 --> 00:40:09,983
There's nobody else on the Wall.
716
00:40:10,199 --> 00:40:13,863
Last night, the temperature
dropped 30 degrees.
717
00:40:14,078 --> 00:40:16,285
To be up there
under these conditions,
718
00:40:16,497 --> 00:40:19,285
it's horrendous.
I don't know how they do it.
719
00:40:23,254 --> 00:40:24,710
Carabiners, locked
720
00:40:24,923 --> 00:40:28,132
The windchill's like
negative 20 or something.
721
00:40:28,343 --> 00:40:30,084
How you feeling over there, KJ?
722
00:40:33,139 --> 00:40:35,050
It's getting pretty rowdy.
723
00:40:35,266 --> 00:40:37,974
On El Cap, the wind
blows straight up the wall.
724
00:40:38,186 --> 00:40:41,304
The ledge would float up
and, bang, back into the wall.
725
00:40:44,776 --> 00:40:46,858
Oh, boy.
726
00:40:47,070 --> 00:40:50,313
Tommy
feels right at home.
727
00:40:50,531 --> 00:40:53,068
Argh!
728
00:40:54,994 --> 00:40:56,610
I don't know what's
wrong with me,
729
00:40:56,829 --> 00:40:58,536
but I love this shit.
730
00:41:02,085 --> 00:41:05,453
It might be smart
to stay in the ledges today.
731
00:41:07,048 --> 00:41:11,417
Because of the windstorm
the day before,
732
00:41:11,636 --> 00:41:13,718
all of this moisture froze,
733
00:41:13,930 --> 00:41:17,139
like salt on a Margarita glass
on the top of El Cap.
734
00:41:17,350 --> 00:41:20,263
And as soon as the sun
hit the top of the Wall,
735
00:41:20,478 --> 00:41:26,895
that ice just started
to shower down on top of us.
736
00:41:31,781 --> 00:41:34,364
These missiles
flying by our camp.
737
00:41:34,575 --> 00:41:37,408
You hear it before you see it.
738
00:41:37,620 --> 00:41:40,408
I'm like,
this is a deadly situation.
739
00:41:42,417 --> 00:41:44,784
- That was fucked up.
- Did you get hit?
740
00:41:45,003 --> 00:41:46,789
No,
but that was just pure luck.
741
00:41:48,464 --> 00:41:49,420
That was scary.
742
00:41:49,632 --> 00:41:51,122
I hate that shit.
743
00:41:51,342 --> 00:41:54,380
Here come some more big
chunks. Tommy forgot his helmet.
744
00:41:54,595 --> 00:41:56,461
Heads up, Tommy.
745
00:41:58,349 --> 00:42:01,683
Tommy doesn't seem
too concerned. What the fuck?
746
00:42:01,894 --> 00:42:03,476
What's new?
747
00:42:03,688 --> 00:42:06,897
Tommy, he was made
for something like this.
748
00:42:07,108 --> 00:42:12,649
But for me, it took a long time
to get comfortable on the Wall.
749
00:42:12,864 --> 00:42:15,526
You can understand,
Tommy grew up in the mountains.
750
00:42:15,742 --> 00:42:18,279
He'd spent the better part
of his adult life
751
00:42:18,494 --> 00:42:21,282
on El Capitan
trying to do free climbs.
752
00:42:21,497 --> 00:42:25,661
But this guy Kevin was raised
in Santa Rosa, I think.
753
00:42:25,877 --> 00:42:28,369
You know, wine country.
754
00:42:28,588 --> 00:42:31,831
There's not a lot
of rock climbing in Santa Rosa.
755
00:42:32,050 --> 00:42:34,257
- First ascent.
- Yeah!
756
00:42:34,469 --> 00:42:37,461
Don't fall on the Camaro.
757
00:42:37,680 --> 00:42:41,969
I found climbing
through the local gym.
758
00:42:42,185 --> 00:42:44,267
- Bye, honey. Have fun.
- Bye, Mom.
759
00:42:44,479 --> 00:42:45,810
Drive careful.
760
00:42:46,022 --> 00:42:47,979
I got really into
this particular form of climbing
761
00:42:48,191 --> 00:42:50,023
called bouldering.
762
00:42:50,234 --> 00:42:53,226
It's typically 30 feet or less.
763
00:42:53,446 --> 00:42:55,858
Doesn't require any gear.
764
00:42:56,074 --> 00:42:58,566
Bouldering's just about
athleticism
765
00:42:58,785 --> 00:43:01,026
and difficulty
in its purest form.
766
00:43:04,457 --> 00:43:05,697
Bouldering is all about
767
00:43:05,917 --> 00:43:08,249
trying the hardest
individual moves.
768
00:43:11,005 --> 00:43:14,418
And Kevin quickly became
very, very talented.
769
00:43:15,593 --> 00:43:17,675
He was one of the best
in the world.
770
00:43:20,264 --> 00:43:22,676
But only up to about
30 feet.
771
00:43:24,519 --> 00:43:28,308
In 2009, I was at
the top of my game in bouldering
772
00:43:29,524 --> 00:43:32,107
and looking for something new.
773
00:43:34,403 --> 00:43:37,987
I kept hearing about
this futuristic thing
774
00:43:38,199 --> 00:43:40,190
that Tommy was working on.
775
00:43:40,409 --> 00:43:42,525
I had zero big wall experience.
776
00:43:42,745 --> 00:43:44,406
Tommy and I
didn't know each other at all.
777
00:43:44,622 --> 00:43:46,863
But I just sent him a message
out of the blue.
778
00:43:47,083 --> 00:43:48,619
"Hey, do you need a partner?"
779
00:43:48,835 --> 00:43:52,328
And to my utter shock, he said,
meet me in Yosemite in October.
780
00:43:53,798 --> 00:43:55,709
I knew Kevin
by reputation.
781
00:43:55,925 --> 00:43:58,462
He was this amazingly strong
bouldering kid.
782
00:43:58,678 --> 00:44:00,294
And I thought to myself,
"What the heck?"
783
00:44:00,513 --> 00:44:02,675
"Maybe he could be an asset."
784
00:44:02,890 --> 00:44:04,756
Plus, he was the only one
interested.
785
00:44:04,976 --> 00:44:07,559
Everybody else
thought I was crazy.
786
00:44:09,480 --> 00:44:10,436
Show up.
787
00:44:10,648 --> 00:44:12,355
I remember standing there
with Tommy,
788
00:44:12,567 --> 00:44:14,023
who's a legend figure
in my life.
789
00:44:14,235 --> 00:44:16,772
I feel like such a fucking dork.
790
00:44:16,988 --> 00:44:19,150
Who am I?
I've never climbed El Cap.
791
00:44:19,365 --> 00:44:20,776
What a noob.
792
00:44:20,992 --> 00:44:22,153
Fiddling around on boulders,
793
00:44:22,368 --> 00:44:24,325
that's a far cry
from being on El Capitan.
794
00:44:24,537 --> 00:44:27,325
First thing I had to do
was test him.
795
00:44:28,583 --> 00:44:30,699
I gave him like
an 80 pound haul bag.
796
00:44:30,918 --> 00:44:32,625
A soul crushing load.
797
00:44:32,837 --> 00:44:34,419
We hiked
to the top of El Cap.
798
00:44:34,630 --> 00:44:36,291
We spent the night on top.
799
00:44:36,507 --> 00:44:38,043
Woke up early the next day...
800
00:44:38,259 --> 00:44:40,421
It's 3:15
in the morning.
801
00:44:40,636 --> 00:44:41,922
Cooking up a little breakfast.
802
00:44:42,138 --> 00:44:44,300
You never get up at 3:00
in the morning to go bouldering.
803
00:44:45,808 --> 00:44:48,516
...and start rappelling
down the face.
804
00:44:51,731 --> 00:44:54,689
You start walking backwards.
805
00:44:54,901 --> 00:44:57,893
It's like stepping off
the edge of the Earth.
806
00:45:06,078 --> 00:45:09,696
You instantly have 3,000 feet
of exposure under your butt.
807
00:45:12,793 --> 00:45:14,158
Oh, my God!
808
00:45:16,547 --> 00:45:18,129
How's it going
up there, Kev?
809
00:45:18,341 --> 00:45:20,298
- Good, I got the bag.
- And my shoes?
810
00:45:20,509 --> 00:45:23,922
- And your shoes.
- Cool, thank you.
811
00:45:24,138 --> 00:45:26,846
It's scary to be a total
beginner again.
812
00:45:27,058 --> 00:45:28,765
I don't know any of this stuff.
813
00:45:30,144 --> 00:45:33,353
Trying to figure out
how to jumar a fixed line.
814
00:45:35,691 --> 00:45:37,728
How to set up a portaledge.
815
00:45:45,660 --> 00:45:46,900
Sorry, Kevin.
816
00:45:47,119 --> 00:45:50,407
I'll just hold
this quarter in. It's cool.
817
00:45:50,623 --> 00:45:53,706
How to take a dump
on the side of the Wall.
818
00:45:53,918 --> 00:45:56,410
- They get every moment.
- Close up.
819
00:45:59,340 --> 00:46:03,925
At this point, I have
no idea what I'm getting into,
820
00:46:04,136 --> 00:46:07,504
no idea that it's about
to consume six years of my life.
821
00:46:08,975 --> 00:46:11,433
When Kevin
joined on with Tommy,
822
00:46:13,271 --> 00:46:15,512
it was the first time
since getting divorced
823
00:46:15,731 --> 00:46:17,768
that Tommy had a partner.
824
00:46:19,235 --> 00:46:20,976
There's two bolts
and then an old bolt.
825
00:46:21,195 --> 00:46:24,733
I didn't know
what we were up against,
826
00:46:24,949 --> 00:46:28,362
but I was going on faith
that this is Tommy's world.
827
00:46:28,577 --> 00:46:32,115
He's got the clear vision
of what this could be.
828
00:46:32,331 --> 00:46:34,618
And I'm just going
to trust that.
829
00:46:37,461 --> 00:46:38,997
The basic strategy
early on
830
00:46:39,213 --> 00:46:41,124
was not to climb the route
from the bottom.
831
00:46:41,340 --> 00:46:43,707
It was to identify
the hardest sections
832
00:46:43,926 --> 00:46:45,462
and focus on those first.
833
00:46:45,678 --> 00:46:47,919
There were
all these question marks.
834
00:46:48,139 --> 00:46:49,721
Come on, Tommy.
835
00:46:49,932 --> 00:46:51,468
OK, take it there.
836
00:46:51,684 --> 00:46:54,016
Oh, I got the pinch with my
right hand instead of my left.
837
00:46:54,228 --> 00:46:55,434
Working it out.
838
00:46:55,646 --> 00:46:57,102
Constantly working it out.
839
00:46:58,691 --> 00:47:01,979
Early on, most of it was
figuring out what didn't work.
840
00:47:08,034 --> 00:47:09,365
Right in the middle of the Wall,
841
00:47:09,577 --> 00:47:11,614
we were gonna have to
traverse it sideways.
842
00:47:11,829 --> 00:47:13,411
Come on.
843
00:47:16,876 --> 00:47:18,662
Come on.
844
00:47:18,878 --> 00:47:20,494
I don't see any holds,
845
00:47:20,713 --> 00:47:23,796
but I try to harness
some of Tommy's optimism.
846
00:47:26,093 --> 00:47:27,379
After the traverse,
847
00:47:27,595 --> 00:47:30,462
there's this 8 and 1/2 foot
blank section.
848
00:47:30,681 --> 00:47:32,046
Completely smooth.
849
00:47:32,266 --> 00:47:35,099
Nothing that you could even
get your fingernails behind.
850
00:47:35,311 --> 00:47:37,302
The only way was to just leap.
851
00:47:38,981 --> 00:47:40,938
This crazy dynamic move.
852
00:47:41,150 --> 00:47:42,265
The Dyno.
853
00:47:42,485 --> 00:47:43,975
I didn't really believe
it would be possible
854
00:47:44,195 --> 00:47:45,481
until I saw Kevin try it.
855
00:47:47,823 --> 00:47:49,564
Yeah, man. It was close.
856
00:47:49,784 --> 00:47:51,445
He showed me that it was.
857
00:47:51,660 --> 00:47:54,448
Come on. All you got.
858
00:47:54,663 --> 00:47:57,200
Above the Dyno,
you have pitch after pitch
859
00:47:57,416 --> 00:47:58,952
of have super smooth granite,
860
00:47:59,168 --> 00:48:00,829
extremely polished.
861
00:48:02,088 --> 00:48:04,079
Because of Tommy's
missing index finger,
862
00:48:04,298 --> 00:48:07,461
he's using his thumbs
in crazy ways.
863
00:48:11,806 --> 00:48:13,296
Shit.
864
00:48:13,516 --> 00:48:15,302
Argh!
865
00:48:16,477 --> 00:48:18,309
Holy crap, that is hard.
866
00:48:18,521 --> 00:48:21,388
13B. 13D.
867
00:48:21,607 --> 00:48:23,644
13C. 14A.
868
00:48:23,859 --> 00:48:26,726
To understand
the difficulty of this route,
869
00:48:26,946 --> 00:48:31,315
you have to understand
climbing grades.
870
00:48:31,534 --> 00:48:33,400
Climbers use a numerical system
871
00:48:33,619 --> 00:48:35,826
to rate the difficulty
of each pitch.
872
00:48:36,038 --> 00:48:38,700
The higher the number,
the harder the pitch.
873
00:48:38,916 --> 00:48:41,954
Once you get into
513 and 514 level,
874
00:48:42,169 --> 00:48:43,910
that's virtuoso territory.
875
00:48:45,881 --> 00:48:47,997
The Dawn Wall
has more hard pitches
876
00:48:48,217 --> 00:48:51,801
than every other route
on El Cap combined.
877
00:49:00,146 --> 00:49:01,432
I always thought it was futile
878
00:49:01,647 --> 00:49:03,308
in terms of doing
the whole thing.
879
00:49:05,276 --> 00:49:08,394
This is a pipe dream, man.
Come on.
880
00:49:08,612 --> 00:49:11,320
The next few years
were a grind.
881
00:49:11,532 --> 00:49:16,652
Coming back every spring and
every fall for months at a time.
882
00:49:19,832 --> 00:49:22,494
Come on.
883
00:49:23,961 --> 00:49:27,374
Living on the Wall
takes a huge toll.
884
00:49:27,590 --> 00:49:29,797
This is what El Cap
does to your feet.
885
00:49:30,009 --> 00:49:31,966
We'd stay up there
a few days...
886
00:49:32,178 --> 00:49:34,670
Oh, my God.
That's a lot of air time.
887
00:49:35,890 --> 00:49:38,382
...go down, rest,
888
00:49:38,601 --> 00:49:39,636
try again.
889
00:49:39,852 --> 00:49:42,594
There were always
new problems to face.
890
00:49:42,813 --> 00:49:43,928
Get out of here!
891
00:49:46,484 --> 00:49:48,191
Come on, Kevin.
Do it, man.
892
00:49:50,446 --> 00:49:51,857
- Really close.
- Oh, I sprained my ankle.
893
00:49:52,072 --> 00:49:53,608
- Are you OK, man?
- Oh, shit.
894
00:49:53,824 --> 00:49:56,065
So many reasons
to give up.
895
00:49:57,703 --> 00:49:59,034
Oh, shit.
896
00:49:59,246 --> 00:50:02,455
Man, I think I have
broke or dislocated ribs.
897
00:50:02,666 --> 00:50:04,031
We're heading to the clinic.
898
00:50:04,251 --> 00:50:05,582
Maybe they'll just
pop it back in.
899
00:50:05,794 --> 00:50:08,252
They will, and
we'll go back up later tonight.
900
00:50:09,256 --> 00:50:11,338
But Tommy was committed.
901
00:50:13,052 --> 00:50:14,793
Come on, Kevin!
Come on!
902
00:50:15,012 --> 00:50:17,344
There were times
I thought he was totally crazy.
903
00:50:17,556 --> 00:50:19,342
Come on!
904
00:50:21,727 --> 00:50:23,058
'Lee-hoe!
905
00:50:23,270 --> 00:50:26,103
Whoa'. Ow-ow!
906
00:50:30,486 --> 00:50:32,978
When we weren't
together on the Wall,
907
00:50:33,197 --> 00:50:35,313
we would go home
to our own worlds,
908
00:50:36,700 --> 00:50:38,782
check in on loved ones.
909
00:50:41,080 --> 00:50:44,072
It's gross. I can see the oil
on your hair.
910
00:50:45,709 --> 00:50:48,076
OK, I'm just totally
being a mom.
911
00:50:50,297 --> 00:50:52,664
Try to get some good rest
912
00:50:52,883 --> 00:50:57,093
and find motivation
for the next round of attempts.
913
00:51:01,141 --> 00:51:02,472
When I wasn't
on the Dawn Wall,
914
00:51:02,685 --> 00:51:05,803
I was living by myself
in Colorado,
915
00:51:06,021 --> 00:51:08,228
training and obsessing.
916
00:51:08,440 --> 00:51:10,522
I was really lonely, honestly.
917
00:51:11,569 --> 00:51:13,810
I met this girl named Becca.
918
00:51:14,029 --> 00:51:15,394
We started dating.
919
00:51:15,614 --> 00:51:17,981
He was thoughtful
and considerate,
920
00:51:18,200 --> 00:51:21,158
but from the beginning,
it was pretty obvious
921
00:51:21,370 --> 00:51:25,864
his mind was completely occupied
by the Dawn Wall.
922
00:51:26,083 --> 00:51:27,539
It wasn't just a climb.
923
00:51:29,086 --> 00:51:30,872
It was all consuming.
924
00:51:32,840 --> 00:51:36,253
We were trying to build
a relationship.
925
00:51:36,468 --> 00:51:39,256
But he would go out to Yosemite
for months at a time,
926
00:51:39,471 --> 00:51:41,929
giving everything
to the Dawn Wall.
927
00:51:44,643 --> 00:51:48,602
For years,
Tommy put his whole life on hold
928
00:51:48,814 --> 00:51:52,603
so he could give every
last ounce of his body and soul
929
00:51:55,195 --> 00:51:58,233
to this impossible quest.
930
00:51:58,449 --> 00:52:01,157
I could never tell
if we were wasting our time
931
00:52:01,368 --> 00:52:04,952
or we were in pursuit
of something grand.
932
00:52:05,164 --> 00:52:06,199
Come on!
933
00:52:10,461 --> 00:52:11,622
I'd go out to Yosemite
934
00:52:11,837 --> 00:52:13,373
and I'd watch him
from the meadow.
935
00:52:13,589 --> 00:52:14,954
It looked completely ridiculous.
936
00:52:15,174 --> 00:52:16,881
Ah, shoot.
937
00:52:17,092 --> 00:52:20,460
I think we all admire people
who are dedicated.
938
00:52:20,679 --> 00:52:23,421
But at some point,
you start to wonder,
939
00:52:23,641 --> 00:52:27,179
where are the lines between
dedication and obsession?
940
00:52:30,981 --> 00:52:34,645
He was going
through emotional agony.
941
00:52:34,860 --> 00:52:37,477
This climb has been
gut wrenching.
942
00:52:37,696 --> 00:52:39,858
I want this for him so badly.
943
00:52:40,074 --> 00:52:42,441
Argh!
944
00:52:42,660 --> 00:52:44,526
- Oh, he fell off.
- Oh.
945
00:52:44,745 --> 00:52:48,158
Man. I mean, you've
failed on this thing 800 times.
946
00:52:48,374 --> 00:52:51,742
How can you continue to beat
your head against this wall?
947
00:52:51,960 --> 00:52:53,371
After years of effort,
948
00:52:53,587 --> 00:52:56,625
it didn't feel like we were
any closer to our dream.
949
00:52:57,591 --> 00:52:59,832
He's worked so hard.
950
00:53:00,052 --> 00:53:01,793
Why am I crying right now?
951
00:53:02,012 --> 00:53:04,174
This project! Argh!
952
00:53:04,390 --> 00:53:05,471
This makes me wonder
953
00:53:05,683 --> 00:53:07,014
if he bit off
more than he could chew.
954
00:53:07,226 --> 00:53:09,388
Oh, it's so good
to have you down.
955
00:53:12,022 --> 00:53:14,889
After all this failure,
I started to wonder
956
00:53:15,109 --> 00:53:18,067
if maybe this climb
really was impossible.
957
00:53:19,196 --> 00:53:21,153
Maybe I wasn't good enough.
958
00:53:39,007 --> 00:53:41,419
- Morning.
- Morning.
959
00:53:45,347 --> 00:53:48,180
Tommy and Kevin have been
up there, this is their 8th day.
960
00:53:48,392 --> 00:53:50,258
They're halfway up the Wall.
961
00:53:50,477 --> 00:53:53,845
They got past 70 mile an hour
winds, the ice falls.
962
00:53:54,064 --> 00:53:55,975
They climbed
a lot of difficult rock.
963
00:53:56,191 --> 00:53:59,058
Now they've got today
a very hard section to do.
964
00:53:59,278 --> 00:54:01,861
They're here. They've got to go
across this traverse.
965
00:54:02,072 --> 00:54:04,154
14D, I think it is.
966
00:54:04,366 --> 00:54:08,360
If they can get that done,
they're well on their way.
967
00:54:11,290 --> 00:54:15,249
The hardest individual
part of this 3,000 foot puzzle
968
00:54:15,461 --> 00:54:17,953
is the traverse.
969
00:54:18,172 --> 00:54:19,458
The bottom section of the route
970
00:54:19,673 --> 00:54:24,258
follows a vague series of cracks
and corners in the rock.
971
00:54:24,470 --> 00:54:29,180
But after 1,000 feet, those
cracks and corners dead end.
972
00:54:29,391 --> 00:54:32,258
300 feet to the left, there's
another series of features
973
00:54:32,478 --> 00:54:34,435
that angles up to the top.
974
00:54:35,731 --> 00:54:36,937
The trick is,
975
00:54:37,149 --> 00:54:39,436
how do you traverse
this 300 foot blank section
976
00:54:39,651 --> 00:54:41,608
right in the middle of the Wall?
977
00:54:41,820 --> 00:54:43,777
There's
this band of rock
978
00:54:43,989 --> 00:54:45,900
that's a slightly different
color and texture.
979
00:54:46,116 --> 00:54:47,698
Everything
above and below it
980
00:54:47,910 --> 00:54:49,366
is impossible to free climb.
981
00:54:49,578 --> 00:54:51,785
But the composition of that band
982
00:54:51,997 --> 00:54:55,035
is such that it has
a few holds on it.
983
00:54:55,250 --> 00:54:59,790
Over the last six years,
we spent over 100 days
984
00:55:00,005 --> 00:55:02,212
trying to get across
this traverse.
985
00:55:02,424 --> 00:55:04,540
Thousands of tries
on that single pitch.
986
00:55:06,011 --> 00:55:08,673
I've never done it.
987
00:55:08,889 --> 00:55:10,630
Now we have to do it
for the very first time...
988
00:55:10,849 --> 00:55:13,841
Looks like
Tommy's getting ready.
989
00:55:14,061 --> 00:55:16,428
...in the moment,
on the push.
990
00:55:17,648 --> 00:55:18,888
Go get it.
991
00:55:28,826 --> 00:55:30,362
It's really unnerving.
992
00:55:30,577 --> 00:55:32,784
You're just waiting to slip off
at any moment.
993
00:55:42,130 --> 00:55:43,495
It's kind of funny.
994
00:55:43,715 --> 00:55:47,208
This 3,000 foot wall, and
it's coming down to millimeters
995
00:55:47,427 --> 00:55:50,385
of skin contact
on your fingertips.
996
00:55:50,597 --> 00:55:53,760
It becomes
such a zoomed-in world.
997
00:55:53,976 --> 00:55:56,593
There's one way
to get across,
998
00:55:56,812 --> 00:55:59,349
and it is made up of
all these little sequences
999
00:55:59,565 --> 00:56:01,852
that have to be done perfectly.
1000
00:56:02,067 --> 00:56:04,024
You miss a hold,
it's impossible.
1001
00:56:04,236 --> 00:56:05,977
Yeah, dude.
1002
00:56:06,196 --> 00:56:08,528
You grab it wrong,
it's impossible.
1003
00:56:08,740 --> 00:56:09,730
Nice.
1004
00:56:12,953 --> 00:56:15,285
We're trading attempts.
1005
00:56:16,582 --> 00:56:19,825
Tommy ties in
and just flips that switch.
1006
00:56:20,043 --> 00:56:21,829
Alright.
Go get it, Tommy.
1007
00:57:11,595 --> 00:57:13,711
You grab
these sharp holds,
1008
00:57:13,931 --> 00:57:15,467
like razor blades.
1009
00:57:20,187 --> 00:57:21,427
Come on!
1010
00:57:23,440 --> 00:57:25,351
Span as far as you can.
1011
00:57:27,736 --> 00:57:29,352
Come on!
1012
00:57:30,614 --> 00:57:32,196
So stretched out.
1013
00:57:46,713 --> 00:57:49,330
I suddenly felt this confidence.
1014
00:57:53,971 --> 00:57:58,306
I knew exactly how each finger
was going onto each hold,
1015
00:57:58,517 --> 00:58:02,727
where the little ripples on the
rock were digging into my shoes.
1016
00:58:14,783 --> 00:58:17,525
After years of working
on that pitch,
1017
00:58:17,744 --> 00:58:20,452
it just came together
in this amazing, magical way.
1018
00:58:20,664 --> 00:58:22,200
Yes, come on!
1019
00:58:22,416 --> 00:58:23,781
Come on!
1020
00:58:25,877 --> 00:58:27,083
Whoa!
1021
00:58:27,295 --> 00:58:29,332
Whoo!
1022
00:58:34,761 --> 00:58:36,502
Ow-ow-ow-ow!
1023
00:58:36,722 --> 00:58:39,009
When I heard
that Tommy had done pitch 15,
1024
00:58:39,224 --> 00:58:41,932
that was like,
"You've got to be kidding me!"
1025
00:58:44,187 --> 00:58:45,598
For the first time,
1026
00:58:45,814 --> 00:58:49,148
these guys actually have a shot
at maybe doing this thing.
1027
00:58:51,653 --> 00:58:53,644
When Tommy got across,
1028
00:58:53,864 --> 00:58:55,855
it was a big moment.
1029
00:58:56,074 --> 00:58:59,533
Everything was rolling,
and now it was my turn.
1030
00:59:08,879 --> 00:59:10,790
Over the years, we realized
1031
00:59:11,006 --> 00:59:14,124
sometimes the best conditions
are at night.
1032
00:59:16,261 --> 00:59:18,172
It's colder. It's drier.
1033
00:59:18,388 --> 00:59:20,720
So there's better friction
on the rock.
1034
00:59:22,350 --> 00:59:24,887
At first, it's scary.
1035
00:59:25,103 --> 00:59:28,562
But after a while, you forget
how high off the ground you are
1036
00:59:28,774 --> 00:59:31,812
and you can focus
just on the climbing.
1037
00:59:51,129 --> 00:59:52,711
Tried it a few times.
1038
00:59:53,590 --> 00:59:56,582
I wasn't that close.
1039
00:59:56,802 --> 00:59:59,965
We rappelled back to our camp
below the traverse.
1040
01:00:01,681 --> 01:00:05,549
I was stoked for Tommy,
a little stressed for myself.
1041
01:00:08,522 --> 01:00:11,514
So Tommy's made it
through the traverse.
1042
01:00:11,733 --> 01:00:14,100
He still has to get
past the Dyno
1043
01:00:14,319 --> 01:00:16,651
and the Long Run to Wino Tower.
1044
01:00:22,285 --> 01:00:25,152
But first, he has to wait
for Kevin to catch up.
1045
01:00:39,553 --> 01:00:40,964
Hello?
1046
01:00:41,179 --> 01:00:42,590
'Hey, guys. This is
John Branch from the NY Times.
1047
01:00:42,806 --> 01:00:44,888
- 'How's it going up there?'
- Good, John.
1048
01:00:45,100 --> 01:00:47,558
'Tommy, I know that
you made it to 15 last night.
1049
01:00:47,769 --> 01:00:49,180
'It's very exciting,
1050
01:00:49,396 --> 01:00:51,057
'so I appreciate you guys taking
just a few minutes to talk.'
1051
01:00:51,273 --> 01:00:53,389
We're always looking for stories
that are a little bit
1052
01:00:53,608 --> 01:00:55,064
out of the mainstream
sports realm.
1053
01:00:55,277 --> 01:00:56,813
Every time we start
a hard pitch...
1054
01:00:57,028 --> 01:01:00,396
I knew about the Dawn
Wall and Tommy Caldwell's quest.
1055
01:01:00,615 --> 01:01:03,698
And when I heard that
Tommy did pitch 15, I thought,
1056
01:01:03,910 --> 01:01:05,992
if it was ever going to happen,
this might be the time.
1057
01:01:06,204 --> 01:01:07,490
We recognized
1058
01:01:07,706 --> 01:01:09,947
this is not only the best
climbing story of the year,
1059
01:01:10,167 --> 01:01:11,202
but maybe of our generation.
1060
01:01:11,418 --> 01:01:13,000
'We talked about
follow-up stories.'
1061
01:01:13,211 --> 01:01:14,326
Quickly typed up a story.
1062
01:01:14,546 --> 01:01:17,789
The next day,
it ran in the paper.
1063
01:01:18,008 --> 01:01:19,840
It was on the front page
of The New York Times,
1064
01:01:20,051 --> 01:01:21,382
and it just exploded.
1065
01:01:21,595 --> 01:01:24,553
It was the most viewed
story at nytimes.com.
1066
01:01:24,764 --> 01:01:26,254
Tons of comments.
Lots of questions.
1067
01:01:26,474 --> 01:01:27,259
People care about this.
1068
01:01:27,475 --> 01:01:28,965
When John Branch,
1069
01:01:29,186 --> 01:01:31,518
the Pulitzer Prize winning
journalist, got a hold of it,
1070
01:01:31,730 --> 01:01:34,438
it just got its own momentum.
1071
01:01:34,649 --> 01:01:36,356
And it just got bigger
and bigger from there.
1072
01:01:36,568 --> 01:01:38,559
There was
follow-up stories
1073
01:01:38,778 --> 01:01:40,815
and a flood of media requests
1074
01:01:41,031 --> 01:01:44,069
from every major news outlet
in the world.
1075
01:01:44,284 --> 01:01:46,696
Picture this.
Our next guests talk to us
1076
01:01:46,912 --> 01:01:49,529
as they were suspended
high up in mid air.
1077
01:01:49,748 --> 01:01:52,365
'We're sitting in a
portaledge, which is basically'
1078
01:01:52,584 --> 01:01:54,916
a hanging cot
with an aluminum frame.
1079
01:01:55,128 --> 01:01:57,335
That's professional
climber Tommy Caldwell
1080
01:01:57,547 --> 01:01:59,333
ten days into what's considered
1081
01:01:59,549 --> 01:02:01,961
one of the world's most daunting
climbing challenges.
1082
01:02:02,177 --> 01:02:03,713
This is crazy.
1083
01:02:03,929 --> 01:02:05,135
'Best of luck.'
1084
01:02:05,347 --> 01:02:06,837
Great.
Thank you so much.
1085
01:02:08,558 --> 01:02:10,890
Guess we hang up.
I don't really know.
1086
01:02:13,063 --> 01:02:16,772
They don't tell us what to do
when it's over.
1087
01:02:18,735 --> 01:02:20,601
Oh, my God!
1088
01:02:20,820 --> 01:02:22,310
How many days does it take?
1089
01:02:22,530 --> 01:02:23,861
All of a sudden,
1090
01:02:24,074 --> 01:02:26,031
there are crowds of people
congregating in the Valley.
1091
01:02:26,243 --> 01:02:29,110
Let's turn now to this historic
feat by two American climbers.
1092
01:02:29,329 --> 01:02:31,161
Perched on a cliff
above Yosemite.
1093
01:02:31,373 --> 01:02:33,865
The famously steep face
of El Capitan.
1094
01:02:34,084 --> 01:02:37,418
The whole media thing
was very strange for me.
1095
01:02:37,629 --> 01:02:38,960
The climb of the century.
1096
01:02:39,172 --> 01:02:40,253
It's just been extraordinary.
1097
01:02:40,465 --> 01:02:42,456
A real cliffhanger.
Did I just say that?
1098
01:02:42,676 --> 01:02:44,587
They were just saying
these ludicrous things.
1099
01:02:44,803 --> 01:02:46,214
- Two American hikers.
- Daredevils.
1100
01:02:46,429 --> 01:02:47,669
- Thrill seekers.
- Adrenaline junkies.
1101
01:02:47,889 --> 01:02:49,800
Scaling the cliff
known as El Capitan.
1102
01:02:50,016 --> 01:02:51,427
That's not even El Cap.
1103
01:02:51,643 --> 01:02:53,850
Inching up
without any climbing tools.
1104
01:02:54,062 --> 01:02:56,895
I'm wearing pretty much the same
gear as the guys up in Yosemite.
1105
01:02:57,107 --> 01:03:00,725
I like the second picture,
so we'll hover here.
1106
01:03:00,944 --> 01:03:03,561
The Dawn Wall was always
this personal journey.
1107
01:03:03,780 --> 01:03:05,487
This was a bad idea.
1108
01:03:06,241 --> 01:03:07,527
And obviously,
1109
01:03:07,742 --> 01:03:09,608
this turned into something
very different from that.
1110
01:03:09,828 --> 01:03:11,660
So don't understand
how they could possibly do it.
1111
01:03:11,871 --> 01:03:13,737
I hope they make it,
but I don't understand it.
1112
01:03:13,957 --> 01:03:14,992
It's the challenge.
1113
01:03:15,208 --> 01:03:17,666
Yeah, the challenge of it.
No, thanks.
1114
01:03:17,877 --> 01:03:21,120
Suddenly, the whole
world was watching this climb.
1115
01:03:21,339 --> 01:03:24,923
Which wasn't the
best timing for me personally,
1116
01:03:27,345 --> 01:03:29,632
because I still
had to do pitch 15.
1117
01:03:31,725 --> 01:03:34,467
At this point,
they've established a base camp
1118
01:03:34,686 --> 01:03:36,893
a couple of hundred feet
below the traverse.
1119
01:03:37,105 --> 01:03:38,436
So when Kevin's ready to climb,
1120
01:03:38,648 --> 01:03:41,265
they go up the fixed ropes
to the start of pitch 15.
1121
01:03:44,446 --> 01:03:46,778
Tommy sets up his belay,
1122
01:03:46,990 --> 01:03:50,199
and Kevin tries
to get across this thing.
1123
01:03:50,410 --> 01:03:52,777
Here would be actually
a big moment on the climb.
1124
01:03:52,996 --> 01:03:54,987
Drove all the way out here today
just to see this.
1125
01:03:57,083 --> 01:04:00,041
It was important
to get through pitch 15
1126
01:04:00,253 --> 01:04:02,369
and catch up
to Tommy's high point
1127
01:04:02,589 --> 01:04:04,330
as soon as possible.
1128
01:04:11,556 --> 01:04:13,263
Come on, Kev.
You got it.
1129
01:04:19,522 --> 01:04:21,433
Oh!
1130
01:04:21,649 --> 01:04:24,641
Every fall, you go back
to the start of the pitch,
1131
01:04:24,861 --> 01:04:27,102
rest for at least an hour...
1132
01:04:29,282 --> 01:04:31,114
...try again.
1133
01:04:33,870 --> 01:04:36,908
Every attempt,
you wear off more skin.
1134
01:04:37,123 --> 01:04:38,454
You run out of
a little more energy.
1135
01:04:40,001 --> 01:04:41,867
Everything was going smoothly
1136
01:04:42,087 --> 01:04:44,499
until Jorgeson
couldn't grasp pitch 15.
1137
01:04:44,714 --> 01:04:46,546
Stopped by the
sheer difficulty of the climb.
1138
01:04:46,758 --> 01:04:48,044
As the razor-sharp handholds
1139
01:04:48,259 --> 01:04:49,715
tore the skin
off his fingertips.
1140
01:04:49,928 --> 01:04:51,259
So everyone's tuning in
1141
01:04:51,471 --> 01:04:53,553
in the middle of guys living
on the side of the Wall...
1142
01:04:53,765 --> 01:04:56,223
History is on hold
in Yosemite National Park.
1143
01:04:56,434 --> 01:04:57,799
...and one of them's stuck.
1144
01:04:58,019 --> 01:04:59,384
Argh!
1145
01:04:59,604 --> 01:05:01,936
Kevin Jorgeson is stuck.
1146
01:05:02,148 --> 01:05:04,105
- That was close, dude.
- I know.
1147
01:05:04,317 --> 01:05:07,275
You just started to
fall apart a little bit there.
1148
01:05:07,487 --> 01:05:09,569
It's a pretty
fascinating drama
1149
01:05:09,781 --> 01:05:13,365
unfolding in real time,
literally in front of our eyes.
1150
01:05:13,576 --> 01:05:16,193
People who I'm sure
had no idea what a pitch was
1151
01:05:16,413 --> 01:05:18,745
were now going, "Pitch 15!
Come on, Kevin! You can do it!"
1152
01:05:21,584 --> 01:05:23,450
You'll get it, dude.
That was really close.
1153
01:05:23,670 --> 01:05:26,253
I spent a few days
not climbing,
1154
01:05:26,464 --> 01:05:30,002
just belaying Kevin
over and over again on pitch 15.
1155
01:05:35,723 --> 01:05:38,806
It was harder than any pitch
of climbing he'd ever done.
1156
01:05:39,018 --> 01:05:40,600
Fucker!
1157
01:05:40,812 --> 01:05:43,554
He just kept falling
and falling.
1158
01:05:43,773 --> 01:05:46,936
I had honestly started to lose
hope that he was going to do it.
1159
01:05:47,152 --> 01:05:49,814
Last night
was my third day
1160
01:05:50,029 --> 01:05:52,691
of battle with pitch 15.
1161
01:05:52,907 --> 01:05:57,071
Still didn't do it.
1162
01:05:57,287 --> 01:06:01,872
After trying so many times,
I've destroyed my fingers.
1163
01:06:02,083 --> 01:06:07,328
So I decided to take a rest day
and let my fingers heal.
1164
01:06:12,886 --> 01:06:16,379
Meanwhile,
Tommy hasn't climbed for days.
1165
01:06:17,682 --> 01:06:18,968
And he has to be thinking,
1166
01:06:19,184 --> 01:06:22,393
I can't stay up here
indefinitely waiting for Kevin.
1167
01:06:22,604 --> 01:06:24,595
I mean, there's
very few people in the world
1168
01:06:24,814 --> 01:06:27,727
that have ever even spent
that much time on a wall.
1169
01:06:27,942 --> 01:06:30,730
Living on the Wall
just wears you down.
1170
01:06:30,945 --> 01:06:32,356
It's just harsh up there.
1171
01:06:32,572 --> 01:06:34,108
You can't even walk.
1172
01:06:34,324 --> 01:06:36,065
You're not sleeping great
at night.
1173
01:06:36,284 --> 01:06:40,198
You're not eating normal foods,
drinking enough water.
1174
01:06:40,413 --> 01:06:43,701
It's hard to climb your best
under those conditions.
1175
01:06:43,917 --> 01:06:47,285
Every day that goes by,
maybe Tommy suddenly gets sick.
1176
01:06:47,504 --> 01:06:48,744
Maybe the weather changes.
1177
01:06:48,963 --> 01:06:52,081
I felt like
I had to continue.
1178
01:06:52,300 --> 01:06:54,587
So they devised a plan.
1179
01:06:54,802 --> 01:06:57,385
Tommy's going to press on
and try the Dyno pitch,
1180
01:06:57,597 --> 01:07:00,635
hoping that Kevin
eventually will get across 15
1181
01:07:00,850 --> 01:07:02,682
and he can catch up.
1182
01:07:02,894 --> 01:07:05,431
That night,
we go up our fixed lines
1183
01:07:05,647 --> 01:07:08,730
and I belay Tommy on pitch 16,
the Dyno pitch.
1184
01:07:10,151 --> 01:07:11,391
I had tried
the Dyno move
1185
01:07:11,611 --> 01:07:13,568
hundreds of times
over the years.
1186
01:07:17,825 --> 01:07:18,815
Never done it.
1187
01:07:19,035 --> 01:07:21,902
I'd rebuilt it on the shed
at my home,
1188
01:07:22,121 --> 01:07:25,830
so I could just practice
this one stupid move.
1189
01:07:26,042 --> 01:07:27,874
Just before we went
for our final push,
1190
01:07:28,086 --> 01:07:29,497
I was completely frustrated,
1191
01:07:29,712 --> 01:07:32,704
staring at these photos
of the Wall.
1192
01:07:32,924 --> 01:07:37,168
I started to notice cracks and
edges that go down and around.
1193
01:07:37,387 --> 01:07:39,469
So I came up with this idea
1194
01:07:39,681 --> 01:07:42,469
to do the most ridiculous
pitch of climbing.
1195
01:07:42,684 --> 01:07:45,472
His idea was to
just climb in a giant circle
1196
01:07:45,687 --> 01:07:47,849
around the Dyno.
I was like, "Really?"
1197
01:07:48,064 --> 01:07:49,805
So to get around
about eight feet...?
1198
01:07:50,024 --> 01:07:52,607
Yeah, climb like 200.
1199
01:07:52,819 --> 01:07:56,778
Tommy's currently working out
the world's hardest down climb.
1200
01:07:56,990 --> 01:08:00,733
We do hard moves going straight
up, hard moves going sideways.
1201
01:08:00,952 --> 01:08:01,987
I should add a down climb.
1202
01:08:02,203 --> 01:08:04,865
That way, we
just get the full package.
1203
01:08:06,499 --> 01:08:08,786
Down climbing,
it's so unnatural.
1204
01:08:09,002 --> 01:08:10,117
Falling.
1205
01:08:10,336 --> 01:08:13,169
It's like
running backwards.
1206
01:08:15,383 --> 01:08:16,965
That felt horrible.
1207
01:08:34,444 --> 01:08:35,980
Good, Tommy.
1208
01:08:37,280 --> 01:08:38,862
Nice.
1209
01:08:45,705 --> 01:08:47,412
Come on. Focus.
1210
01:08:49,751 --> 01:08:51,116
Good.
1211
01:08:53,296 --> 01:08:54,786
This loop pitch,
1212
01:08:55,006 --> 01:08:58,419
it's like walking around
the block to cross the street.
1213
01:08:58,635 --> 01:09:00,842
It is just a little bit
ridiculous.
1214
01:09:02,305 --> 01:09:04,387
But it's also kind of brilliant.
1215
01:09:04,599 --> 01:09:05,805
Come on.
1216
01:09:06,517 --> 01:09:07,678
Come on.
1217
01:09:10,021 --> 01:09:11,932
This thing that had been
shutting him down
1218
01:09:12,148 --> 01:09:13,388
for all these years,
1219
01:09:13,608 --> 01:09:17,397
and then he just looks at it
with a new set of eyes
1220
01:09:17,612 --> 01:09:19,728
and finds a new solution.
1221
01:09:19,947 --> 01:09:21,483
Yeah.
1222
01:09:21,699 --> 01:09:23,281
The Dyno!
1223
01:09:23,993 --> 01:09:25,950
Whoo!
1224
01:09:39,050 --> 01:09:40,632
How is the skin, dude?
1225
01:09:42,261 --> 01:09:45,253
It's not healing very quickly,
1226
01:09:45,473 --> 01:09:48,556
which is frustrating.
1227
01:09:48,768 --> 01:09:52,853
While Kevin's waiting
for his fingers to heal,
1228
01:09:53,064 --> 01:09:57,058
Tommy continued pushing
the route higher and higher.
1229
01:09:57,276 --> 01:09:58,812
What you do every day is,
1230
01:09:59,028 --> 01:10:00,939
you get to a high point,
and then you leave fixed ropes
1231
01:10:01,155 --> 01:10:02,611
that go back down to the camp.
1232
01:10:02,824 --> 01:10:06,067
The next day, you motor back up
the ropes to the high point
1233
01:10:06,285 --> 01:10:07,946
and then carry on.
1234
01:10:08,162 --> 01:10:09,994
So, even though
they might be working
1235
01:10:10,206 --> 01:10:11,913
on different parts of the Wall,
1236
01:10:12,125 --> 01:10:14,457
they're doing it together.
Kevin belays Tommy,
1237
01:10:14,669 --> 01:10:18,583
and once Tommy's done, they
both go back down to the camp.
1238
01:10:21,467 --> 01:10:23,333
Tommy's just forging on.
1239
01:10:32,687 --> 01:10:36,555
Every pitch gets him further
away from where I'm stuck.
1240
01:10:38,025 --> 01:10:39,356
One more down.
1241
01:10:39,569 --> 01:10:42,061
There's so much distance
between our high points
1242
01:10:42,280 --> 01:10:44,317
that I'm not going to be able
to close that gap
1243
01:10:44,532 --> 01:10:46,523
in a reasonable amount of time
1244
01:10:46,743 --> 01:10:48,325
unless I do this.
1245
01:10:48,536 --> 01:10:50,527
Every time I would
look over in his portaledge,
1246
01:10:50,747 --> 01:10:52,613
he would just be following
news updates,
1247
01:10:52,832 --> 01:10:54,743
staring at his fingertips,
1248
01:10:54,959 --> 01:10:56,370
mumbling to himself.
1249
01:10:56,586 --> 01:10:59,374
Trying to convince
myself these actually look good.
1250
01:11:03,217 --> 01:11:04,628
Tommy, do you have
the Ibuprofen?
1251
01:11:06,053 --> 01:11:07,919
Oh, yeah.
1252
01:11:08,139 --> 01:11:12,007
After two days resting,
I felt resolved.
1253
01:11:13,269 --> 01:11:15,260
This was the day
it had to happen.
1254
01:11:18,232 --> 01:11:19,597
It's still pretty warm out.
1255
01:11:19,817 --> 01:11:21,683
And so I'm going to wait
a few more hours
1256
01:11:21,903 --> 01:11:23,519
for the temperatures
to drop even more
1257
01:11:23,738 --> 01:11:26,901
to give myself
every bit of friction you can.
1258
01:11:27,116 --> 01:11:28,277
You ready?
1259
01:11:28,493 --> 01:11:31,326
Ready
as I'm ever going to be.
1260
01:11:52,391 --> 01:11:56,134
I've been waiting for days
for the skin to heal,
1261
01:11:57,522 --> 01:11:59,263
for this moment to come.
1262
01:12:08,032 --> 01:12:10,114
There's a nice cold breeze
blowing up the wall.
1263
01:12:11,744 --> 01:12:14,202
I felt weightless.
1264
01:12:14,413 --> 01:12:17,747
I was just floating
across the pitch.
1265
01:12:32,056 --> 01:12:33,638
Hold it together.
1266
01:12:44,610 --> 01:12:46,442
Come on, Kevin.
Do it, man.
1267
01:12:46,654 --> 01:12:47,894
You got it.
1268
01:12:48,781 --> 01:12:50,317
Come on.
1269
01:12:50,533 --> 01:12:52,365
You got it.
1270
01:12:52,577 --> 01:12:53,988
Come on. Find it.
1271
01:12:54,203 --> 01:12:55,739
Good.
Come on.
1272
01:12:56,622 --> 01:12:58,738
Argh!
1273
01:13:00,251 --> 01:13:02,492
Oh,
that was so good, dude.
1274
01:13:04,505 --> 01:13:08,965
Everything was perfect,
and I still didn't do it.
1275
01:13:10,511 --> 01:13:11,546
Come on, Kevin.
1276
01:13:11,762 --> 01:13:13,969
I tried four times
that night.
1277
01:13:15,266 --> 01:13:16,256
Fucker!
1278
01:13:16,475 --> 01:13:18,182
He's off.
1279
01:13:18,394 --> 01:13:19,930
I just kept falling.
1280
01:13:24,942 --> 01:13:26,023
Shit!
1281
01:13:26,777 --> 01:13:28,563
Tonight...
1282
01:13:30,948 --> 01:13:32,689
...didn't go so well.
1283
01:13:35,119 --> 01:13:38,111
It was a battle,
and I didn't win.
1284
01:13:38,331 --> 01:13:40,493
It was pretty clear
that that was it.
1285
01:13:40,708 --> 01:13:42,915
Like, you had your chance.
1286
01:13:43,127 --> 01:13:45,118
You weren't good enough.
1287
01:13:45,338 --> 01:13:47,204
Yeah, it's pretty fucked.
1288
01:13:49,842 --> 01:13:53,426
Now you're the guy that
almost climbed the Dawn Wall.
1289
01:13:53,638 --> 01:13:55,629
So how much did you enjoy
that process?
1290
01:13:55,848 --> 01:13:57,805
Because that's all you get.
1291
01:14:04,899 --> 01:14:06,515
Editors and I
started talking.
1292
01:14:06,734 --> 01:14:08,566
Is it now time to do a story
about what happens
1293
01:14:08,778 --> 01:14:10,234
if he doesn't make it?
1294
01:14:10,446 --> 01:14:11,982
We all want happy endings, but
as a journalist, you're like,
1295
01:14:12,198 --> 01:14:13,814
"That's an incredible story."
1296
01:14:14,033 --> 01:14:16,616
What's the ethos in climbing?
1297
01:14:16,827 --> 01:14:19,285
Do you say,
you go ahead without me?
1298
01:14:19,497 --> 01:14:20,987
Do you leave a guy behind?
1299
01:14:21,207 --> 01:14:22,743
Are they having
this conversation
1300
01:14:22,959 --> 01:14:25,075
in the portaledge at night?
1301
01:14:37,890 --> 01:14:39,927
This would be nice
to check the radar.
1302
01:14:43,646 --> 01:14:47,264
The next day, the
weather was starting to get bad.
1303
01:14:49,068 --> 01:14:50,900
And I knew what I needed to do.
1304
01:14:51,904 --> 01:14:53,360
20%.
1305
01:14:53,572 --> 01:14:54,903
Today?
1306
01:14:55,116 --> 01:14:57,778
Next like four days.
1307
01:14:57,994 --> 01:14:59,905
I'm just going to
throw in the towel
1308
01:15:00,121 --> 01:15:02,158
and support Tommy to the top.
1309
01:15:05,835 --> 01:15:06,916
From here on out,
1310
01:15:07,128 --> 01:15:08,618
Kevin's just
going to belay Tommy
1311
01:15:08,838 --> 01:15:10,374
and follow him up the ropes.
1312
01:15:12,633 --> 01:15:14,624
So they go up
to Tommy's high point,
1313
01:15:14,844 --> 01:15:16,926
where he starts up
the last hard pitches
1314
01:15:17,138 --> 01:15:19,129
of the long run to Wino Tower.
1315
01:15:25,771 --> 01:15:28,388
There I was,
watching Tommy
1316
01:15:28,607 --> 01:15:30,598
climb with so much confidence
1317
01:15:30,818 --> 01:15:33,480
toward the completion
of this dream.
1318
01:15:37,324 --> 01:15:40,658
Even if I can't do this,
I was really happy for Tommy.
1319
01:15:44,665 --> 01:15:46,406
What a special moment
1320
01:15:46,625 --> 01:15:48,582
to witness
this piece of history.
1321
01:15:54,592 --> 01:15:57,209
And I was there to help Tommy
realize this vision.
1322
01:16:05,311 --> 01:16:08,053
After everything
he went through,
1323
01:16:10,483 --> 01:16:12,440
so much struggle,
1324
01:16:13,569 --> 01:16:15,856
the injuries, the doubts.
1325
01:16:17,573 --> 01:16:20,861
For Tommy it was like,
this is it.
1326
01:16:25,998 --> 01:16:27,454
Come on, Tommy.
1327
01:16:29,877 --> 01:16:31,163
Boom!
1328
01:16:33,339 --> 01:16:35,831
Woo-hoo!
Feels good.
1329
01:16:37,259 --> 01:16:38,670
I'm down in the meadow
1330
01:16:38,886 --> 01:16:41,093
watching Tommy
trying to get to Wino Tower,
1331
01:16:41,305 --> 01:16:43,842
which is the next big feature
above them.
1332
01:16:44,058 --> 01:16:45,844
It's this mythical landmark
1333
01:16:46,060 --> 01:16:49,018
about two-thirds of the way
up El Capitan.
1334
01:16:49,230 --> 01:16:53,064
This three foot pedestal
2,000 feet up the Wall.
1335
01:16:53,275 --> 01:16:55,391
The first horizontal ledge
1336
01:16:55,611 --> 01:16:58,774
where you can stand up,
sit down, lie down
1337
01:16:58,989 --> 01:17:00,775
on the entire route.
1338
01:17:00,991 --> 01:17:04,109
And it signifies
the end of the hardest climbing.
1339
01:17:06,664 --> 01:17:08,780
One more hard pitch
to get to Wino Tower.
1340
01:17:08,999 --> 01:17:10,455
That's crazy!
1341
01:17:10,668 --> 01:17:14,457
For years, I'd envisioned this
moment of getting to Wino Tower.
1342
01:17:14,672 --> 01:17:16,128
So I'm freaking out inside.
1343
01:17:16,340 --> 01:17:17,830
Good, Tommy. Come on.
1344
01:17:18,050 --> 01:17:21,259
Climbing really tense
and kind of shaking nervous.
1345
01:17:21,470 --> 01:17:22,801
Keep breathing, dude.
1346
01:17:28,978 --> 01:17:30,184
Come on.
1347
01:17:32,189 --> 01:17:33,179
Good.
1348
01:17:37,278 --> 01:17:40,020
Just trying
to calm myself down enough
1349
01:17:40,239 --> 01:17:42,651
to make it through
the final last little bit.
1350
01:17:48,914 --> 01:17:50,370
Yeah!
1351
01:18:06,390 --> 01:18:08,176
Ow!
1352
01:18:23,073 --> 01:18:25,440
Oh!
I feel a little shaky.
1353
01:18:25,659 --> 01:18:27,445
Yeah, I might pass out.
1354
01:18:32,166 --> 01:18:34,123
I can't believe
I'm here right now.
1355
01:18:43,928 --> 01:18:47,671
I know it's not over yet,
but that's big.
1356
01:18:48,933 --> 01:18:50,515
I'm at Wino Tower.
1357
01:18:59,276 --> 01:19:01,893
What are you feeling?
1358
01:19:02,112 --> 01:19:05,070
I want Kevin to experience this,
too, for sure.
1359
01:19:09,328 --> 01:19:11,069
It was this huge victory.
1360
01:19:11,288 --> 01:19:12,778
But it's totally trumped
by the fact
1361
01:19:12,998 --> 01:19:15,490
that Kevin wasn't going
to do it with me.
1362
01:19:15,709 --> 01:19:17,916
Suddenly, I just felt alone.
1363
01:19:19,255 --> 01:19:21,587
I think Kevin probably did, too.
1364
01:19:25,886 --> 01:19:28,548
What a crazy experience
this has been.
1365
01:19:29,890 --> 01:19:31,597
It crashed down on me
1366
01:19:31,809 --> 01:19:35,677
that going to the top without
Kevin was gonna be devastating.
1367
01:19:35,896 --> 01:19:37,728
Just got to get KJ up here now.
1368
01:19:38,983 --> 01:19:40,473
So I decided in that moment
1369
01:19:40,693 --> 01:19:43,355
that we were going to get
to the top together.
1370
01:19:43,570 --> 01:19:46,779
- What will you do?
- Everything I can to help him.
1371
01:19:46,991 --> 01:19:48,277
Yeah.
1372
01:19:48,492 --> 01:19:51,860
I'm going to go
into full-on support mode.
1373
01:19:54,665 --> 01:19:58,408
That night, we both
go back down to the camp.
1374
01:20:02,214 --> 01:20:03,625
We were cooking dinner.
1375
01:20:03,841 --> 01:20:06,583
It was real quiet.
1376
01:20:06,802 --> 01:20:09,920
And I knew it was
this emotional moment for Tommy.
1377
01:20:11,849 --> 01:20:14,637
But he's not very good
at verbalizing.
1378
01:20:37,916 --> 01:20:39,907
Yeah.
1379
01:20:40,127 --> 01:20:43,540
Tommy just told me,
in classic Tommy style,
1380
01:20:43,756 --> 01:20:48,501
I don't care how long it takes
for you to get through pitch 15,
1381
01:20:48,719 --> 01:20:51,427
because I can't imagine
a worse outcome
1382
01:20:51,638 --> 01:20:53,470
than doing this alone.
1383
01:20:55,184 --> 01:20:56,766
I don't want to hold you back,
is the thing.
1384
01:20:56,977 --> 01:21:00,265
You're three days
from the top now or some shit.
1385
01:21:05,069 --> 01:21:06,651
It's a pretty special moment.
1386
01:21:09,323 --> 01:21:10,484
I know I can do that pitch.
1387
01:21:10,699 --> 01:21:12,736
Yeah, for sure.
1388
01:21:12,951 --> 01:21:16,444
And I feel like if I can do that
pitch, I'd be so fucking psyched
1389
01:21:16,663 --> 01:21:17,903
that there's nothing
1390
01:21:18,123 --> 01:21:20,364
that's going to stop me
between there and the top.
1391
01:21:20,584 --> 01:21:22,700
I think that's true.
1392
01:21:22,920 --> 01:21:24,581
Just keep stretching.
Make sure...
1393
01:21:24,797 --> 01:21:27,835
I think I need to do
some arm lengthening stretches.
1394
01:21:28,050 --> 01:21:31,463
So we decided that I
would rest two consecutive days
1395
01:21:31,678 --> 01:21:33,260
so that my skin could heal
1396
01:21:33,472 --> 01:21:34,962
and try again.
1397
01:21:37,434 --> 01:21:39,425
The idea
of Tommy waiting,
1398
01:21:39,645 --> 01:21:41,727
to risk your own success
1399
01:21:41,939 --> 01:21:45,307
in the hopes that maybe
by some miracle Kevin can do it,
1400
01:21:45,526 --> 01:21:46,937
that's a partner right there.
1401
01:21:47,903 --> 01:21:50,736
Coffee for KJ.
1402
01:21:50,948 --> 01:21:53,656
But there's no guarantee
that Kevin's ever gonna make it.
1403
01:21:53,867 --> 01:21:57,906
I mean, I thought that Kevin
was maybe not going to make it.
1404
01:21:58,122 --> 01:22:00,079
And I was hoping that,
1405
01:22:00,290 --> 01:22:02,156
since this had been
a dream of Tommy's
1406
01:22:02,376 --> 01:22:04,583
a lot longer than it had been
a dream of Kevin's,
1407
01:22:04,795 --> 01:22:08,254
that Tommy would find a way
to complete this climb.
1408
01:22:08,465 --> 01:22:10,923
As Tommy's friend, selfishly,
1409
01:22:11,135 --> 01:22:13,001
I'm thinking to myself, like,
1410
01:22:13,220 --> 01:22:16,087
"Kevin, dude, time to throw in
the towel and support Tommy."
1411
01:22:16,306 --> 01:22:19,094
Somebody less gracious than
Tommy Caldwell might have said,
1412
01:22:19,309 --> 01:22:21,016
"I've got to go on without you."
1413
01:22:21,228 --> 01:22:23,640
But he was
committed to Kevin.
1414
01:22:23,856 --> 01:22:25,346
"We're doing this together."
1415
01:22:25,566 --> 01:22:30,356
And he wouldn't have been Tommy
if he'd done it any other way.
1416
01:22:30,571 --> 01:22:32,357
This just in.
Those two American climbers...
1417
01:22:32,573 --> 01:22:35,110
- Kevin Jorgeson.
- Kevin Jorgeson.
1418
01:22:35,325 --> 01:22:36,907
Stuck for seven straight days.
1419
01:22:37,119 --> 01:22:38,405
Caldwell
determined to wait...
1420
01:22:38,620 --> 01:22:39,735
One of them
refusing to move higher
1421
01:22:39,955 --> 01:22:42,162
without his partner
stuck below.
1422
01:22:42,374 --> 01:22:43,489
So will they make it?
1423
01:22:43,709 --> 01:22:45,416
Can you imagine?
This really is no joke.
1424
01:22:45,627 --> 01:22:47,243
The media started
to sound like a tabloid.
1425
01:22:47,463 --> 01:22:49,579
Is Jorgeson
spoiling Tommy's dreams?
1426
01:22:49,798 --> 01:22:53,541
Down below, the
crowd is waiting and watching.
1427
01:22:55,971 --> 01:22:58,508
Hey, Tommy,
what's the weather look like?
1428
01:22:58,724 --> 01:23:01,637
Oh, wait. That's right,
you dropped your phone.
1429
01:23:01,852 --> 01:23:03,559
Dropped my phone last night.
1430
01:23:03,770 --> 01:23:06,762
I had my chest pocket unzipped.
It just fell out.
1431
01:23:06,982 --> 01:23:09,349
Hopefully, I didn't kill anybody
down there.
1432
01:23:09,568 --> 01:23:11,184
I'd heard that Tommy dropped
his phone, and I said,
1433
01:23:11,403 --> 01:23:12,939
"Did he really drop his phone?"
1434
01:23:13,155 --> 01:23:15,317
"Or is he just saying,
don't call me anymore?"
1435
01:23:15,532 --> 01:23:18,149
So fed up with the media circus.
1436
01:23:18,368 --> 01:23:20,200
I think he didn't drop it.
1437
01:23:20,412 --> 01:23:22,699
He threw it off.
1438
01:23:22,915 --> 01:23:26,249
Yup. Guess we've got to just
enjoy the view now.
1439
01:23:29,796 --> 01:23:31,412
Over the next few days,
1440
01:23:31,632 --> 01:23:35,170
Tommy was content
right where we were,
1441
01:23:35,385 --> 01:23:37,376
for however long
it was going to be.
1442
01:23:38,847 --> 01:23:40,588
He's just stoked to be up there,
1443
01:23:40,807 --> 01:23:43,390
and it's no big deal if it takes
another rest day or two
1444
01:23:43,602 --> 01:23:45,639
or three or five or whatever.
1445
01:23:45,854 --> 01:23:48,437
Yeah, I feel like I've
just been appreciating things
1446
01:23:48,649 --> 01:23:51,391
a little bit more
the last few days.
1447
01:23:52,486 --> 01:23:54,523
Ah, sun.
1448
01:23:54,738 --> 01:23:57,651
Tommy basically said,
"No hurry. I'm patient."
1449
01:23:57,866 --> 01:24:00,403
They're going to get through it.
Don't freak out.
1450
01:24:00,619 --> 01:24:02,781
Don't worry about the rest
of the world that's watching.
1451
01:24:02,996 --> 01:24:04,486
Let's tune them out.
It's just you and me.
1452
01:24:04,706 --> 01:24:05,912
It became the two of them.
1453
01:24:06,124 --> 01:24:08,912
I think I have to
try to front-step more,
1454
01:24:09,127 --> 01:24:12,586
because when it comes time
to step on that middle foot,
1455
01:24:12,798 --> 01:24:15,005
I can't front-step it or in-step
it cos this foot's in the way.
1456
01:24:15,217 --> 01:24:16,457
A couple of your falls last time
1457
01:24:16,677 --> 01:24:18,543
were just cos you couldn't find
that right foot.
1458
01:24:18,762 --> 01:24:20,799
So even if it's a little bit
harder, it's going to be better.
1459
01:24:21,014 --> 01:24:26,180
Tommy's attitude helped
take a bit of the pressure off.
1460
01:24:26,395 --> 01:24:30,764
But I was still gonna have to do
the hardest thing I've ever done
1461
01:24:30,983 --> 01:24:32,974
for this to end well.
1462
01:24:36,154 --> 01:24:37,315
Trying to make history
1463
01:24:37,531 --> 01:24:39,613
on one of the hardest climbs
in the world.
1464
01:24:39,825 --> 01:24:41,281
'N, what's the story'?
1465
01:24:41,493 --> 01:24:42,904
U.“ Here's the story.
1466
01:24:43,120 --> 01:24:45,987
I'm only about 30 feet up,
and I've called my momma twice.
1467
01:24:46,206 --> 01:24:47,412
Alright?
Can you imagine?
1468
01:24:47,624 --> 01:24:49,331
I'm on what's called
a portaledge
1469
01:24:49,543 --> 01:24:50,908
that's secured to this wall.
1470
01:24:51,128 --> 01:24:53,165
These two climbers
are using one of these
1471
01:24:53,380 --> 01:24:56,042
secured to a flat surface.
1472
01:24:56,258 --> 01:24:58,169
They're having to sleep
on one of these things,
1473
01:24:58,385 --> 01:25:00,672
for weeks possibly, trying
to make an impossible climb.
1474
01:25:00,887 --> 01:25:03,845
And me? I have holds here
I can use to climb the wall.
1475
01:25:04,057 --> 01:25:06,594
Scaling the jagged
cliff known as El Capitan...
1476
01:25:06,810 --> 01:25:08,471
Who is that, Fitz?
1477
01:25:08,687 --> 01:25:10,519
- Daddy.
- Daddy.
1478
01:25:10,731 --> 01:25:13,393
Getting on the airplane.
1479
01:25:15,694 --> 01:25:17,105
Fitz and I have been home
1480
01:25:17,321 --> 01:25:21,030
waiting for our moment to get
on a plane and get out here.
1481
01:25:21,241 --> 01:25:23,357
And it's finally come.
We're here.
1482
01:25:24,703 --> 01:25:27,286
Hey, Fitz, do you see
way up high on El Cap?
1483
01:25:27,497 --> 01:25:29,613
- Yeah.
- Yeah? Can you see Daddy?
1484
01:25:29,833 --> 01:25:31,289
After failing
for so many years,
1485
01:25:31,501 --> 01:25:34,414
there was times when I
definitely felt like giving up.
1486
01:25:34,630 --> 01:25:38,123
But it was actually Becca
who helped me to keep going.
1487
01:25:38,342 --> 01:25:40,174
Seeing him
in his element,
1488
01:25:40,385 --> 01:25:43,673
I saw this focus
and this purpose.
1489
01:25:43,889 --> 01:25:45,630
I really respected him.
1490
01:25:45,849 --> 01:25:48,432
And we fell in love.
1491
01:25:48,644 --> 01:25:52,057
Becca became
my biggest supporter.
1492
01:25:52,272 --> 01:25:53,478
We got married.
1493
01:25:53,690 --> 01:25:56,557
And then we got pregnant
shortly after.
1494
01:25:57,861 --> 01:25:58,896
Hi.
1495
01:25:59,112 --> 01:26:01,399
We had a little boy
named Fitz.
1496
01:26:01,615 --> 01:26:03,947
Hi, Fitz.
1497
01:26:04,159 --> 01:26:07,242
The first day that I had
this little baby in my arms,
1498
01:26:07,454 --> 01:26:09,695
I was overcome with the emotion.
1499
01:26:09,915 --> 01:26:13,579
I thought, how am I going to be
a good example to Fitz?
1500
01:26:13,794 --> 01:26:16,286
How great it is
to be a Caldwell boy.
1501
01:26:18,590 --> 01:26:21,503
Tommy had always viewed
his dad as a superhero,
1502
01:26:21,718 --> 01:26:26,053
and he wanted to be
a superhero for Fitz.
1503
01:26:26,264 --> 01:26:29,973
I wanted Fitz to look at
me with that same sort of awe.
1504
01:26:34,690 --> 01:26:38,058
I wanted to show Fitz
how to be passionate...
1505
01:26:38,276 --> 01:26:39,311
Boom!
1506
01:26:39,528 --> 01:26:40,893
...and how to dream big.
1507
01:26:41,113 --> 01:26:42,478
He already does.
1508
01:26:42,698 --> 01:26:44,188
The Dawn Wall
embodied that.
1509
01:26:44,408 --> 01:26:47,321
And so it made me
want it even more.
1510
01:26:47,536 --> 01:26:49,948
I told him,
you can't stop now.
1511
01:26:50,163 --> 01:26:52,575
You have to do everything
to make this happen.
1512
01:26:58,755 --> 01:27:03,420
One, two, three,
four, five.
1513
01:27:12,060 --> 01:27:13,425
Sometimes you zoom out
1514
01:27:13,645 --> 01:27:17,138
and you think about
what a process it's been,
1515
01:27:17,357 --> 01:27:20,270
this wild six-year journey
with Tommy.
1516
01:27:20,485 --> 01:27:22,146
Did Kevin start already?
1517
01:27:22,362 --> 01:27:25,605
And now here we are
1518
01:27:25,824 --> 01:27:27,565
at the moment of truth.
1519
01:27:27,784 --> 01:27:30,401
And we've just been
mesmerized.
1520
01:27:30,620 --> 01:27:33,203
Hard to put into words
something so big.
1521
01:27:33,415 --> 01:27:35,031
He's not going to give up.
1522
01:27:57,939 --> 01:27:59,304
I couldn't imagine
1523
01:27:59,524 --> 01:28:03,062
what he must have been
going through at that moment.
1524
01:28:33,642 --> 01:28:36,134
I don't remember
the first 50 feet of that pitch.
1525
01:28:42,901 --> 01:28:44,733
I watched him
go into the section
1526
01:28:44,945 --> 01:28:47,061
where he had fallen
so many times.
1527
01:28:47,280 --> 01:28:49,271
I just hold my breath.
1528
01:29:02,504 --> 01:29:04,541
You pull
as hard as you can.
1529
01:29:08,176 --> 01:29:09,666
Move your feet.
1530
01:29:13,974 --> 01:29:16,841
Argh!
1531
01:29:17,060 --> 01:29:19,097
You're just trying
not to tip over backwards.
1532
01:29:24,317 --> 01:29:26,604
Put the heel on.
1533
01:29:26,820 --> 01:29:28,561
Slide the hand up.
1534
01:29:28,780 --> 01:29:30,771
Take the heel off.
1535
01:29:30,991 --> 01:29:32,447
Drop the right hand in.
1536
01:29:33,410 --> 01:29:35,196
Heel back on.
1537
01:29:35,412 --> 01:29:36,902
Left hand down.
1538
01:29:41,793 --> 01:29:43,534
Heart rate starts to go up.
1539
01:29:46,464 --> 01:29:48,831
My adrenaline starts
going, cos he's still hanging on
1540
01:29:49,050 --> 01:29:51,917
in this place that he had fallen
so many times.
1541
01:30:32,469 --> 01:30:34,085
Yeah, Kevin!
1542
01:30:36,473 --> 01:30:38,714
Yeah!
1543
01:30:39,643 --> 01:30:40,474
Yes!
1544
01:30:46,775 --> 01:30:49,517
Watching him do it,
I was just awestruck.
1545
01:30:49,736 --> 01:30:52,819
I was like, I can't believe
that just happened.
1546
01:30:54,324 --> 01:30:55,655
He did it.
1547
01:30:55,867 --> 01:30:58,359
Freaking guy actually
did this thing, right?
1548
01:30:58,578 --> 01:31:00,819
You're like, "What?"
1549
01:31:02,624 --> 01:31:04,035
After seven days,
1550
01:31:04,250 --> 01:31:06,617
Jorgeson got past
the most difficult...
1551
01:31:06,836 --> 01:31:09,419
Past the toughest
section of the climb.
1552
01:31:09,631 --> 01:31:10,871
Yes, he made it.
1553
01:31:11,091 --> 01:31:12,581
And now it's upward.
1554
01:31:12,801 --> 01:31:15,338
And you start thinking, are his
fingers OK? Can he do 16, 17?
1555
01:31:16,096 --> 01:31:17,507
Is this over yet?
1556
01:31:17,722 --> 01:31:20,134
I had just finished
the hardest pitch of my life,
1557
01:31:20,350 --> 01:31:21,966
and I couldn't even celebrate.
1558
01:31:22,185 --> 01:31:24,347
I just need to catch up.
1559
01:31:24,562 --> 01:31:26,394
The next pitch
is this big Dyno
1560
01:31:26,606 --> 01:31:28,096
that's so hard
that Tommy can't do it,
1561
01:31:28,316 --> 01:31:29,556
he's got to climb around it.
1562
01:31:29,776 --> 01:31:31,062
There's no way in hell
1563
01:31:31,277 --> 01:31:33,894
that I'm going to try
Tommy's crazy loop pitch.
1564
01:31:34,114 --> 01:31:38,483
So that same night I start
trying the 8 and 1/2 foot Dyno.
1565
01:31:39,411 --> 01:31:41,027
Argh!
1566
01:31:50,422 --> 01:31:51,753
Yeah!
1567
01:31:51,965 --> 01:31:55,708
Kevin, through some kind
of magic or levitation,
1568
01:31:55,927 --> 01:31:59,795
actually does this Dyno
that Tommy was never able to do.
1569
01:32:00,015 --> 01:32:02,131
- So good.
- Tonight, Kevin...
1570
01:32:02,350 --> 01:32:04,842
...now just a few
hundred feet behind Caldwell.
1571
01:32:05,061 --> 01:32:07,302
All these hard pitches
just keep coming.
1572
01:32:07,522 --> 01:32:09,058
17,18,19.
1573
01:32:11,026 --> 01:32:13,688
It was like a fight
to the death.
1574
01:32:14,863 --> 01:32:16,353
- Oh, no.
- Rock!
1575
01:32:16,573 --> 01:32:17,984
That is a bad hold to rip off.
1576
01:32:18,199 --> 01:32:19,439
Oh, man.
1577
01:32:19,659 --> 01:32:22,367
I think
it's a lot harder now.
1578
01:32:22,579 --> 01:32:24,286
That didn't take him too long
to figure it out.
1579
01:32:24,497 --> 01:32:25,578
Nice, KJ!
1580
01:32:25,790 --> 01:32:27,497
It's just
a little more tension.
1581
01:32:27,709 --> 01:32:31,623
Like we need more of that
on this route.
1582
01:32:31,838 --> 01:32:34,125
The last pitch
getting to Wino Tower,
1583
01:32:34,340 --> 01:32:37,628
this crazy fog came in.
1584
01:32:37,844 --> 01:32:39,426
Kevin sends this pitch
right now,
1585
01:32:39,637 --> 01:32:41,844
he's going to be
caught up with me.
1586
01:32:49,647 --> 01:32:50,637
Yes!
1587
01:32:50,857 --> 01:32:52,188
Nice one, Kevin.
1588
01:32:52,400 --> 01:32:54,937
I just remember
seeing Tommy at the anchor
1589
01:32:55,153 --> 01:32:58,862
and having such a huge wash
of gratefulness.
1590
01:32:59,074 --> 01:33:02,692
Oh! I can't believe
we're here.
1591
01:33:03,661 --> 01:33:06,323
So good, man.
1592
01:33:06,539 --> 01:33:09,156
We're reunited
at our high points now.
1593
01:33:09,375 --> 01:33:11,332
I can't believe we did it.
1594
01:33:11,544 --> 01:33:15,037
Going up from there on out
together to the top.
1595
01:33:21,971 --> 01:33:24,508
Come on, Jorgeson.
Come on.
1596
01:33:24,724 --> 01:33:27,557
He was sitting on five
days' rest while I caught up.
1597
01:33:27,769 --> 01:33:30,761
Pretty sure he's going to
pull me up the wall today.
1598
01:33:30,980 --> 01:33:34,974
From here on it's just
a matter of grinding it out.
1599
01:33:35,193 --> 01:33:38,060
So we get up and we stay
300 feet from the top.
1600
01:33:43,701 --> 01:33:46,238
We wake up this last morning.
1601
01:33:46,454 --> 01:33:48,491
The sun comes on the Dawn Wall.
1602
01:33:51,501 --> 01:33:52,832
It hits the top
of the Wall first,
1603
01:33:53,044 --> 01:33:56,378
and we're the only thing
in Yosemite actually in the sun.
1604
01:33:56,589 --> 01:33:57,829
So happy-
1605
01:33:59,634 --> 01:34:02,001
This is a good moment
right here.
1606
01:34:02,220 --> 01:34:04,211
This is definitely
a good moment.
1607
01:34:07,892 --> 01:34:09,883
Does it get any better
than this?
1608
01:34:10,103 --> 01:34:12,720
I'm just enjoying
my last day
1609
01:34:12,939 --> 01:34:14,771
being up here with my friend.
1610
01:34:14,983 --> 01:34:17,315
I think we should just stay.
1611
01:34:18,611 --> 01:34:19,817
Just cancel the whole thing.
1612
01:34:20,029 --> 01:34:23,442
We're going to camp here
for another day.
1613
01:34:23,658 --> 01:34:26,195
Living on a wall
where everything is so simple
1614
01:34:26,411 --> 01:34:27,526
for 19 days,
1615
01:34:27,745 --> 01:34:29,782
we were going to miss
that experience.
1616
01:34:29,998 --> 01:34:31,284
Good morning
to our viewers.
1617
01:34:31,499 --> 01:34:33,991
It's been an exciting 24 hours
here in Yosemite.
1618
01:34:34,210 --> 01:34:35,826
Tommy Caldwell
and Kevin Jorgeson
1619
01:34:36,045 --> 01:34:37,535
spent 19 days on the Wall.
1620
01:34:37,755 --> 01:34:40,372
There were 15 TV trucks,
reporters from all over.
1621
01:34:40,592 --> 01:34:41,923
There was a webcam.
1622
01:34:42,135 --> 01:34:43,967
Millions of people were actually
watching this live.
1623
01:34:44,179 --> 01:34:45,795
Like a moon landing
or something.
1624
01:34:48,349 --> 01:34:52,263
A lot of their friends
and family had come out.
1625
01:34:52,478 --> 01:34:55,436
A number of people hiked up
El Cap the back way,
1626
01:34:55,648 --> 01:34:58,640
and you could watch these guys
go up the final pitches.
1627
01:34:58,860 --> 01:35:00,316
And they're cheering them on.
1628
01:35:00,528 --> 01:35:02,860
I love you! Whoo!
1629
01:35:04,407 --> 01:35:05,863
It's gonna be awesome.
1630
01:35:07,827 --> 01:35:09,909
Seeing Tommy
do the Dawn Wall,
1631
01:35:10,121 --> 01:35:12,078
I was super happy for him.
1632
01:35:12,290 --> 01:35:14,657
Just knowing how much
was emotionally wrapped up
1633
01:35:14,876 --> 01:35:16,617
in the route for him,
1634
01:35:17,754 --> 01:35:21,292
I was really proud of him.
1635
01:35:21,507 --> 01:35:24,750
Actually seeing he was
going to complete this climb,
1636
01:35:24,969 --> 01:35:27,586
it was just, wow.
1637
01:35:30,475 --> 01:35:32,432
After 19 days,
1638
01:35:32,644 --> 01:35:35,306
Tommy Caldwell pulling himself
over the edge of the Dawn Wall.
1639
01:35:40,777 --> 01:35:43,895
Followed minutes later by
climbing partner Kevin Jorgeson.
1640
01:35:59,337 --> 01:36:00,873
And the crowd cheered
1641
01:36:01,089 --> 01:36:04,582
as the two men accomplished
a feat many said was impossible.
1642
01:36:18,398 --> 01:36:20,435
There aren't a lot
of moments that choke me up
1643
01:36:20,650 --> 01:36:23,312
in sports anymore.
I've been doing this too long.
1644
01:36:23,528 --> 01:36:26,395
I'll never forget a scene
of them rejoicing.
1645
01:36:32,578 --> 01:36:35,661
This is the moment that's been
so many years in the making.
1646
01:36:35,873 --> 01:36:37,659
Now forever enshrined
in history.
1647
01:36:37,875 --> 01:36:39,786
Inspiring millions
around the world,
1648
01:36:40,003 --> 01:36:41,118
even at the White House,
1649
01:36:41,337 --> 01:36:44,204
where President Obama
gave a thumbs up.
1650
01:36:47,260 --> 01:36:48,625
It's done. It's done.
1651
01:36:48,845 --> 01:36:49,926
You are shaking like a leaf.
1652
01:36:50,138 --> 01:36:51,549
Are you cold
or are you emotional?
1653
01:36:51,764 --> 01:36:53,471
- I'm emotional.
- OK.
1654
01:36:53,683 --> 01:36:56,345
He's worked so hard
for this.
1655
01:36:56,561 --> 01:37:00,976
That moment
he describes as bittersweet.
1656
01:37:01,190 --> 01:37:06,481
This whole experience
that drove him for so long,
1657
01:37:06,696 --> 01:37:08,152
it was over.
1658
01:37:10,199 --> 01:37:13,066
Anything that you'd like to say
about El Cap?
1659
01:37:13,286 --> 01:37:16,699
I've totally fallen in love
with that piece of rock.
1660
01:37:16,914 --> 01:37:18,951
It's been a big centerpiece
of my life.
1661
01:37:19,167 --> 01:37:21,659
And I just feel so thankful
every day.
1662
01:37:38,269 --> 01:37:40,852
Tommy and Kevin
join us now on SportsCenter.
1663
01:37:41,064 --> 01:37:43,271
I know Tommy's lost his voice
a little bit.
1664
01:37:43,483 --> 01:37:46,225
It drove me
every day for seven years.
1665
01:37:46,444 --> 01:37:47,434
Sorry.
1666
01:37:48,988 --> 01:37:52,947
What did your first real shower
in 19 days feel like?
1667
01:37:55,119 --> 01:37:58,282
I, like the entire world,
was watching you.
1668
01:37:58,498 --> 01:38:00,910
And I just thought, why?
1669
01:38:03,252 --> 01:38:06,870
Throwing out today's
first pitch, Kevin Jorgeson.
1670
01:38:11,803 --> 01:38:15,012
Tommy Caldwell's
new autobiography, "The Push".
1671
01:38:15,223 --> 01:38:18,636
You were captured
by militants in Kyrgyzstan?
1672
01:38:21,104 --> 01:38:22,310
Turns out
1673
01:38:22,522 --> 01:38:25,355
the militant
actually survived the fall.
1674
01:38:25,566 --> 01:38:27,102
The rebel
was put on trial
1675
01:38:27,318 --> 01:38:31,733
and found guilty of terrorism,
murder, and kidnapping.
1676
01:38:31,948 --> 01:38:35,691
♪ I have been to the mountain
1677
01:38:36,828 --> 01:38:39,661
♪ And I have walked on his shore
1678
01:38:42,041 --> 01:38:46,035
♪ I have seen
1679
01:38:47,004 --> 01:38:49,211
♪ But I can't see him no more
1680
01:38:58,683 --> 01:39:01,300
♪ I have been to the valley
1681
01:39:03,646 --> 01:39:05,478
♪ And I have sung all her songs
1682
01:39:05,690 --> 01:39:07,180
You can do it.
1683
01:39:08,901 --> 01:39:13,361
♪ Watch me sing
1684
01:39:13,573 --> 01:39:14,859
Look“.
1685
01:39:15,074 --> 01:39:16,735
Mantle.
1686
01:39:16,951 --> 01:39:18,942
Mantle. Come on, try hard.
1687
01:39:19,162 --> 01:39:21,403
You've got to work hard
and focus.
1688
01:39:23,875 --> 01:39:25,536
♪ And I have walked
on his shore... ♪
1689
01:39:25,751 --> 01:39:27,992
You can do it.
You're working really hard.
1690
01:39:29,297 --> 01:39:30,662
Focus.
1691
01:39:30,882 --> 01:39:33,590
Come on, Fitz. You got it.
You can do it. Come on, buddy.
1692
01:39:33,801 --> 01:39:34,836
Come on.
1693
01:39:35,052 --> 01:39:37,089
Remember, push up strong.
1694
01:39:37,305 --> 01:39:39,421
Yeah.
1695
01:39:39,640 --> 01:39:41,222
Don't forget to breathe.
1696
01:39:44,812 --> 01:39:47,679
Come on. Yeah.
Try hard. Try hard.
1697
01:39:47,899 --> 01:39:51,312
Come on, Fitz.
You got it. Yeah.
1698
01:39:51,527 --> 01:39:54,189
Way to focus in.
1699
01:39:54,405 --> 01:39:56,191
Good perseverance.
1700
01:39:57,533 --> 01:39:59,945
Whoo!
1701
01:40:01,454 --> 01:40:03,536
Nice mantle, buddy.
1702
01:40:03,748 --> 01:40:05,034
High five.
1703
01:40:06,083 --> 01:40:07,323
Boom!
128662
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