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Abandoned structures
hold the secrets
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00:00:04,206 --> 00:00:06,516
of America's past.
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00:00:06,517 --> 00:00:09,717
A national treasure once
sailed the seas,
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00:00:09,724 --> 00:00:12,284
holding a mystery
in its belly.
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00:00:12,275 --> 00:00:14,275
My grandfather once said
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00:00:14,275 --> 00:00:16,445
that "everyone would like
to know the top speed,
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00:00:16,448 --> 00:00:18,238
but Uncle Joe Stalin,
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00:00:18,241 --> 00:00:20,481
he's not gonna find out."
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00:00:20,482 --> 00:00:21,862
A clifftop complex
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00:00:21,862 --> 00:00:24,342
that kept America at
the cutting edge
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00:00:24,344 --> 00:00:27,554
of a global
technological revolution.
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00:00:27,551 --> 00:00:30,931
It's the very root
of what we all carry
in our pockets today.
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00:00:30,931 --> 00:00:33,311
This is where it all began.
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00:00:33,310 --> 00:00:35,140
And a frozen neighborhood,
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00:00:35,137 --> 00:00:38,827
once a safe haven
for thousands of Americans.
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00:00:38,827 --> 00:00:40,857
You could
kind of work with people
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00:00:40,862 --> 00:00:41,832
and meet with people
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00:00:41,827 --> 00:00:43,827
and experience people in
an environment
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00:00:43,827 --> 00:00:46,827
that was nonjudgmental
of who you were.
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00:00:49,965 --> 00:00:52,235
Scattered across
the United States
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00:00:52,241 --> 00:00:54,241
are abandoned structures,
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00:00:55,448 --> 00:00:57,858
forgotten ruins of the past,
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00:00:57,862 --> 00:01:01,312
monuments to a bygone era.
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Each shines a light on
the story of this land
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00:01:06,620 --> 00:01:08,690
and its people.
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00:01:08,689 --> 00:01:12,859
These are the secrets
of hidden America.
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00:01:22,172 --> 00:01:23,722
In Philadelphia,
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00:01:23,724 --> 00:01:26,524
a pinnacle of
American engineering
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00:01:26,517 --> 00:01:28,547
rusts in the Delaware River.
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A lot of these piers have
really fallen into disuse.
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But at one pier,
you see this massive ship.
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It's not a cargo ship.
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It's sleek and trim.
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It's a passenger vessel.
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But it is in
really poor shape.
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On board is a labyrinth of
corridors and hatches.
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00:02:01,758 --> 00:02:03,168
Inside is peeling paint,
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00:02:03,172 --> 00:02:05,032
dead wires
dangling from the ceiling.
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00:02:05,034 --> 00:02:07,794
There are no
distinguishing features
to orientate yourself.
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00:02:07,793 --> 00:02:12,033
Everything has been removed,
including the interior walls.
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00:02:12,034 --> 00:02:15,174
This vessel is
a diamond in the rough.
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00:02:15,172 --> 00:02:16,482
It may be rusting,
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00:02:16,482 --> 00:02:20,902
but beneath that grime
is an amazing story.
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00:02:20,896 --> 00:02:26,206
This ship was once
the most famous
passenger liner in America.
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00:02:26,206 --> 00:02:29,446
But few knew what was
going on below deck.
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00:02:30,758 --> 00:02:34,658
These were
top-drawer national secrets,
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00:02:34,655 --> 00:02:36,475
highly classified by
the Pentagon
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00:02:36,482 --> 00:02:39,072
and they weren't released to
the public for decades.
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00:02:43,793 --> 00:02:45,313
The stories of this vessel
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00:02:45,310 --> 00:02:49,070
have passed through the
generations of one family.
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00:02:49,068 --> 00:02:53,208
Susan Gibbs is
the granddaughter of
the man who built it.
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00:02:55,034 --> 00:02:58,764
The first time
I came on board the ship,
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00:02:58,758 --> 00:03:01,718
I was haunted a bit.
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00:03:01,724 --> 00:03:06,974
It's seemed like everyone
had forgotten about the ship.
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00:03:06,965 --> 00:03:09,895
Today,
the ship floats by the pier,
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00:03:09,896 --> 00:03:11,926
unnoticed by most.
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00:03:11,931 --> 00:03:15,211
But 50 years ago,
it was the most luxurious
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00:03:15,206 --> 00:03:17,926
American ocean liner
on the seas,
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00:03:17,931 --> 00:03:19,931
featuring a swimming pool,
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00:03:19,931 --> 00:03:21,341
two bars,
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00:03:21,344 --> 00:03:22,594
two theaters
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00:03:22,586 --> 00:03:25,786
and a place for the
rich and famous to party.
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00:03:28,689 --> 00:03:32,719
We are entering
the grand ballroom.
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00:03:32,724 --> 00:03:38,554
You can imagine women in
gowns and stoles and...
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00:03:38,551 --> 00:03:40,521
men in their dapper tuxedos
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00:03:40,517 --> 00:03:43,307
and listening to the music,
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00:03:43,310 --> 00:03:46,340
which would have been
over there.
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00:03:46,344 --> 00:03:49,974
It just would've been
so magical.
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00:03:53,275 --> 00:03:54,585
The ship played host
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00:03:54,586 --> 00:03:57,856
to all sorts of
celebrities of the day.
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00:03:57,862 --> 00:03:59,342
Salvador Dali,
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00:03:59,344 --> 00:04:00,384
Duke Ellington,
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00:04:00,379 --> 00:04:01,859
the Kennedys,
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00:04:01,862 --> 00:04:03,722
even John Wayne.
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00:04:05,793 --> 00:04:08,863
This is the SS United States,
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00:04:08,862 --> 00:04:11,592
a 50,000-ton steamship,
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00:04:11,586 --> 00:04:14,996
the most sophisticated
high-tech vessel of its day.
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00:04:17,275 --> 00:04:20,515
It was an
absolute masterpiece of
marine architecture.
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00:04:20,517 --> 00:04:24,407
And it integrated all of
the latest technologies
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00:04:24,413 --> 00:04:29,593
that could make a ship sleek
and fast and elegant.
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00:04:29,586 --> 00:04:31,856
If you look closer at
the chimney stacks,
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00:04:31,862 --> 00:04:35,102
you can see they have
a very unusual design.
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00:04:35,103 --> 00:04:38,313
These are pointed almost like
an aircraft's wing,
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00:04:38,310 --> 00:04:40,000
but on its side.
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00:04:40,000 --> 00:04:42,280
It's one of the many quirks
of this vessel.
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The stacks are
part of a number of
innovative design choices
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00:04:51,931 --> 00:04:55,791
from the mind of one man
from Pennsylvania,
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00:04:55,793 --> 00:04:59,933
a man called
William Francis Gibbs.
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00:04:59,931 --> 00:05:04,831
My grandfather was
obsessed with ships
since childhood.
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00:05:04,827 --> 00:05:07,997
And even when he went on
to Harvard,
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00:05:08,000 --> 00:05:10,550
uh, to study,
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00:05:10,551 --> 00:05:14,071
he would spend a lot of
his time in his dorm room
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00:05:14,068 --> 00:05:18,518
designing ships and
neglecting his formal studies.
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00:05:18,517 --> 00:05:20,137
When he was still
a student,
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00:05:20,137 --> 00:05:22,547
Gibbs drew the design for
what would become
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00:05:22,551 --> 00:05:24,171
the SS United States.
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00:05:25,379 --> 00:05:28,339
He called it
his "perfect ship."
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00:05:28,344 --> 00:05:31,974
But two world wars saw
those plans put in a drawer.
99
00:05:33,344 --> 00:05:34,624
By 1940,
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00:05:34,620 --> 00:05:37,660
Gibbs owned his own
ship building business.
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00:05:37,655 --> 00:05:39,095
He took an order
that would have
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00:05:39,103 --> 00:05:42,693
a profound influence on him
for the rest of his life.
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00:05:42,689 --> 00:05:46,479
He was tasked with building
the nation's Liberty ships.
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The Liberty ships
provided that vital lifeline
of supplies
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00:05:54,689 --> 00:05:59,099
that kept Britain alive until
the US could come in and help
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00:05:59,103 --> 00:06:02,283
turn the tide of the war.
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00:06:02,275 --> 00:06:06,165
The Liberty ships
were one of the great
engineering success stories
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00:06:06,172 --> 00:06:07,662
of the second world war.
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00:06:07,655 --> 00:06:12,025
Factories could churn out
a 7,000-ton vessel
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00:06:12,034 --> 00:06:13,934
in just six weeks.
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00:06:16,586 --> 00:06:18,966
At the close of
the second world war,
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00:06:18,965 --> 00:06:23,065
Gibbs had produced
over 5,000 warships.
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00:06:23,068 --> 00:06:26,278
But his perfect vessel was
still on the drawing board.
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00:06:28,551 --> 00:06:30,761
In 1949,
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00:06:30,758 --> 00:06:34,588
he shook hands on a deal
to bring his dream to life.
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00:06:36,793 --> 00:06:39,593
Gibbs wanted to go
back to building
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00:06:39,586 --> 00:06:42,276
the beautiful fast
passenger liners
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00:06:42,275 --> 00:06:44,135
that he had built
before the war.
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00:06:44,137 --> 00:06:47,587
And he knew now he might
get his chance to build
his ultimate ship,
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00:06:47,586 --> 00:06:49,206
his dream ship.
121
00:06:50,275 --> 00:06:51,895
In 1950,
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00:06:51,896 --> 00:06:55,756
his company started building
the SS United States
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00:06:55,758 --> 00:06:58,898
to the design he drew
decades before,
124
00:06:58,896 --> 00:07:01,026
but with a few changes.
125
00:07:03,379 --> 00:07:07,409
There is no wood
anywhere on this ship
126
00:07:07,413 --> 00:07:10,483
because wood can burn,
127
00:07:10,482 --> 00:07:12,972
wood can set on fire,
128
00:07:12,965 --> 00:07:17,095
and my grandfather
absolutely forbade that.
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00:07:17,103 --> 00:07:20,343
This ship was going to be
totally safe.
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00:07:23,241 --> 00:07:24,521
During the wars,
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00:07:24,517 --> 00:07:27,757
Gibbs had learned that
more sailors were lost to fire
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00:07:27,758 --> 00:07:29,238
than to drowning.
133
00:07:29,241 --> 00:07:31,551
The only wood allowed
on the ship
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00:07:31,551 --> 00:07:33,761
was the cutting board
in the kitchen
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00:07:33,758 --> 00:07:36,408
and the Steinway piano
in the ballroom.
136
00:07:39,241 --> 00:07:42,241
He was obsessed
with safety.
137
00:07:42,241 --> 00:07:44,971
He liked to say of the
SS United States,
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00:07:44,965 --> 00:07:47,655
"You can't set her on fire.
You can't sink her.
139
00:07:47,655 --> 00:07:49,275
You can't catch her."
140
00:07:51,482 --> 00:07:53,762
But the biggest
changes to the design
141
00:07:53,758 --> 00:07:55,208
were below deck,
142
00:07:55,206 --> 00:07:57,896
made to appease
the ship's benefactor,
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00:07:57,896 --> 00:07:59,476
the US Government.
144
00:08:12,172 --> 00:08:14,102
The SS United States
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00:08:14,103 --> 00:08:16,143
was the realization
of a dream
146
00:08:16,137 --> 00:08:19,167
for architect
William Francis Gibbs.
147
00:08:19,172 --> 00:08:21,212
Passengers on deck
could indulge
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00:08:21,206 --> 00:08:24,376
in the fruits of
postwar prosperity.
149
00:08:24,379 --> 00:08:28,659
But hidden below was the
beating heart of a warship.
150
00:08:31,551 --> 00:08:33,481
Gibbs' idea was
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00:08:33,482 --> 00:08:37,722
the government would help him
fund this super-fast ship
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00:08:37,724 --> 00:08:40,314
for use as a luxury
passenger liner.
153
00:08:40,310 --> 00:08:42,900
But it would also have
a dual use.
154
00:08:42,896 --> 00:08:45,756
In an emergency, in a war,
it can be converted
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00:08:45,758 --> 00:08:48,898
into the fastest troopship
ever known.
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00:08:49,931 --> 00:08:53,721
The ship's powerplant
was, you know,
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00:08:53,724 --> 00:08:55,524
the heart and soul
of the vessel.
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00:08:55,517 --> 00:08:57,787
This ship could go so fast.
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00:08:57,793 --> 00:09:01,033
The goal was to outrun
enemy torpedoes.
160
00:09:01,034 --> 00:09:04,764
And, basically,
the ship could be converted
161
00:09:04,758 --> 00:09:07,788
into a troopship
in only a matter of days.
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00:09:09,965 --> 00:09:12,925
Gibbs also changed
his design to accommodate
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00:09:12,931 --> 00:09:16,311
an advanced series
of watertight compartments.
164
00:09:16,310 --> 00:09:19,480
Each could be sealed
in the event of a breach,
165
00:09:19,482 --> 00:09:23,552
ensuring a single torpedo
couldn't sink the vessel.
166
00:09:24,793 --> 00:09:28,143
There were just
these elaborate mechanisms,
167
00:09:28,137 --> 00:09:29,137
where from the bridge
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00:09:29,137 --> 00:09:30,897
and from various points
of the ship,
169
00:09:30,896 --> 00:09:34,376
you could control
the watertight doors
throughout the vessel.
170
00:09:34,379 --> 00:09:36,659
So that if there was
ever a breach,
171
00:09:37,206 --> 00:09:38,616
a fire or water,
172
00:09:38,620 --> 00:09:40,660
it could be quickly localized.
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00:09:46,517 --> 00:09:49,757
On July 3rd, 1952,
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00:09:49,758 --> 00:09:52,758
the ship set sail on
its maiden voyage
175
00:09:52,758 --> 00:09:55,928
and crossing from
New York Harbor to
Great Britain.
176
00:09:57,241 --> 00:09:59,481
The SS United States
was designed
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00:09:59,482 --> 00:10:03,072
to be the fastest
passenger ship ever built.
178
00:10:03,068 --> 00:10:07,858
So he actually tested models
of the ship in a wind tunnel
179
00:10:07,862 --> 00:10:12,242
to design a structure
that would be as
aerodynamic as possible.
180
00:10:12,241 --> 00:10:15,931
This was the first time this
has ever been done for a ship.
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00:10:15,931 --> 00:10:19,521
Gibbs promised
his ship would be
the fastest on the sea,
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00:10:19,517 --> 00:10:21,657
putting his reputation
on the line.
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00:10:23,275 --> 00:10:25,275
The maiden voyage of
the SS United States
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00:10:25,275 --> 00:10:27,515
was extraordinary.
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00:10:27,517 --> 00:10:29,827
So I hear.
I was not on board.
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00:10:29,827 --> 00:10:32,657
Many passengers
stayed up all night
187
00:10:32,655 --> 00:10:34,785
the night that
the record was broken,
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00:10:34,793 --> 00:10:37,863
drinking and dancing
up and down this deck
189
00:10:37,862 --> 00:10:39,072
where I'm sitting now.
190
00:10:39,068 --> 00:10:41,168
And conga lines,
drinking out of the bottle,
191
00:10:41,172 --> 00:10:43,552
I mean,
just incredible festivities.
192
00:10:44,482 --> 00:10:46,722
My grandfather was not--
he was on board,
193
00:10:46,724 --> 00:10:48,864
but he was not in
the conga line.
194
00:10:48,862 --> 00:10:51,452
He was up on the bridge
with the captain
195
00:10:51,448 --> 00:10:53,858
and with some other dignitaries.
196
00:10:53,862 --> 00:10:56,792
And he was so proud.
197
00:10:59,137 --> 00:11:00,237
On July 7th,
198
00:11:00,241 --> 00:11:03,901
the SS United States
completed its journey
199
00:11:03,896 --> 00:11:06,786
nearly half a day
ahead of schedule.
200
00:11:08,379 --> 00:11:11,689
The ship went from
the US to Great Britain
201
00:11:11,689 --> 00:11:14,209
in three days and ten hours.
202
00:11:14,206 --> 00:11:16,166
It shattered previous records,
203
00:11:16,172 --> 00:11:17,342
and amazingly,
204
00:11:17,344 --> 00:11:19,004
that record still stands today.
205
00:11:20,344 --> 00:11:21,454
He told a reporter,
206
00:11:21,448 --> 00:11:24,518
"I've dreamed of this moment
for 40 years."
207
00:11:24,517 --> 00:11:27,657
And I think it was the
high point of his entire life.
208
00:11:32,965 --> 00:11:37,065
But the age of
the cruise liner
was coming to an end.
209
00:11:37,068 --> 00:11:39,758
Boeing and
the Douglas Aircraft Company
210
00:11:39,758 --> 00:11:43,898
had made transatlantic travel
cheap and fast.
211
00:11:43,896 --> 00:11:48,206
The SS United States was
decommissioned in 1969,
212
00:11:48,206 --> 00:11:53,406
eventually ending up here
in Philadelphia's Pier 82.
213
00:11:59,413 --> 00:12:04,173
Today, the SS United States
is the most visible legacy
214
00:12:04,172 --> 00:12:07,792
of a man who transformed
American seafaring.
215
00:12:10,000 --> 00:12:12,620
William Francis Gibbs
was one of the most
216
00:12:12,620 --> 00:12:15,100
important engineers in
American history
217
00:12:15,103 --> 00:12:18,623
and, yet, his name is
mostly forgotten today.
218
00:12:18,620 --> 00:12:23,210
This ship was Gibbs' dream
from a very young age.
219
00:12:23,206 --> 00:12:27,996
And it took him the length
of almost an entire career
220
00:12:28,000 --> 00:12:29,310
as a ship builder
221
00:12:29,310 --> 00:12:32,900
before he got a chance
to see it come alive.
222
00:12:36,517 --> 00:12:40,337
He was ultimately
trying to create
the perfect ship.
223
00:12:40,344 --> 00:12:44,934
He used that phrase,
"the perfect ship,"
224
00:12:44,931 --> 00:12:47,591
a symbol connecting
this country
225
00:12:47,586 --> 00:12:49,516
with the rest of the world.
226
00:12:49,517 --> 00:12:52,717
So, yes, I-- I think
he accomplished his goal.
227
00:13:00,448 --> 00:13:02,928
30 miles
from the Great Lakes,
228
00:13:02,931 --> 00:13:06,451
a former go-to destination
was abandoned
229
00:13:06,448 --> 00:13:09,658
when a new law
transformed America.
230
00:13:14,551 --> 00:13:16,661
So we're in
Northern Michigan,
231
00:13:16,655 --> 00:13:18,165
center of the Great Lakes,
232
00:13:18,172 --> 00:13:20,552
a few miles from
the border of Canada,
233
00:13:20,551 --> 00:13:23,791
which means
the winters get pretty cold.
234
00:13:25,896 --> 00:13:29,406
There's a network of roads
and various buildings.
235
00:13:29,413 --> 00:13:31,763
But they're in
some state of decay.
236
00:13:34,103 --> 00:13:36,793
Hundreds of
buildings lay empty.
237
00:13:36,793 --> 00:13:39,103
One is larger than the rest.
238
00:13:41,758 --> 00:13:44,618
One of the buildings
is much larger than
all the others.
239
00:13:44,620 --> 00:13:48,070
It's painted this
brilliant green color
240
00:13:48,068 --> 00:13:50,028
and it's sitting beside
the lake,
241
00:13:50,034 --> 00:13:53,174
which is now frozen.
242
00:13:53,172 --> 00:13:55,522
Vestiges of
small-town America
243
00:13:55,517 --> 00:13:57,827
mark where people
used to gather.
244
00:13:59,206 --> 00:14:00,756
Elsewhere,
there's a small shop
245
00:14:00,758 --> 00:14:03,168
that clearly closed
some time ago.
246
00:14:03,172 --> 00:14:05,902
Perhaps it was one of the
last businesses left standing.
247
00:14:07,896 --> 00:14:11,896
These buildings
are what's left of
a thriving community
248
00:14:11,896 --> 00:14:14,896
that sought
peace and prosperity.
249
00:14:14,896 --> 00:14:16,656
But six decades ago,
250
00:14:16,655 --> 00:14:19,235
a turning point in
American history
251
00:14:19,241 --> 00:14:21,001
drove the people away.
252
00:14:24,862 --> 00:14:28,662
This land was once
home to hundreds of people.
253
00:14:28,655 --> 00:14:32,615
Blair Evans is part of a
small community that remains.
254
00:14:36,206 --> 00:14:38,616
We moved back here
two years ago
255
00:14:38,620 --> 00:14:40,450
and have been here
full-time since.
256
00:14:40,448 --> 00:14:43,068
But I've been involved in
the community a lot for,
257
00:14:43,068 --> 00:14:44,408
you know, my entire life.
258
00:14:46,068 --> 00:14:47,548
Decades ago,
259
00:14:47,551 --> 00:14:51,831
thousands of people would
make the journey
to Northern Michigan.
260
00:14:51,827 --> 00:14:55,857
Most were drawn to one wooden
building by the roadside.
261
00:14:58,344 --> 00:15:02,174
This was a
major hub of activity.
262
00:15:02,172 --> 00:15:03,902
Day and night,
263
00:15:03,896 --> 00:15:06,236
this area was just
extraordinarily active.
264
00:15:07,724 --> 00:15:10,664
This is the Flamingo Club,
265
00:15:10,655 --> 00:15:15,065
a music hall for some of the
biggest stars of the 1950s.
266
00:15:15,068 --> 00:15:17,518
The Four Tops, Sam Cooke
267
00:15:17,517 --> 00:15:19,687
and Sammy Davis Jr,
268
00:15:20,793 --> 00:15:24,933
they all came to perform
at Idlewild.
269
00:15:24,931 --> 00:15:28,141
What Idlewild is
is definitely
a multifaceted question.
270
00:15:28,137 --> 00:15:32,067
And, so, what Idlewild is,
in the minds of people
271
00:15:32,068 --> 00:15:35,378
who are familiar with the
institution of Idlewild
272
00:15:35,379 --> 00:15:36,519
and the myth of Idlewild,
273
00:15:36,517 --> 00:15:39,237
is a kind of oasis.
274
00:15:40,758 --> 00:15:42,138
There was hunting,
275
00:15:42,137 --> 00:15:43,407
there was fishing,
276
00:15:43,413 --> 00:15:44,553
there was boating,
277
00:15:44,551 --> 00:15:46,171
there was swimming,
278
00:15:46,172 --> 00:15:47,832
everything that people
might wanna do
279
00:15:47,827 --> 00:15:49,617
on an all-American vacation.
280
00:15:51,448 --> 00:15:53,828
Tens of thousands
of holiday-makers
281
00:15:53,827 --> 00:15:56,997
flocked to this country resort
in Northern Michigan.
282
00:15:59,344 --> 00:16:02,834
To some, Idlewild went by
another name.
283
00:16:02,827 --> 00:16:05,587
They called it Black Eden.
284
00:16:18,379 --> 00:16:20,279
In Michigan's
northern woodlands
285
00:16:20,275 --> 00:16:23,165
is a vacation resort
like no other.
286
00:16:23,172 --> 00:16:25,412
Blair Evans was just a boy
287
00:16:25,413 --> 00:16:28,693
when famous musicians
came to Idlewild.
288
00:16:28,689 --> 00:16:31,929
Actually, there were
a couple doors to, uh,
kind of peek in,
289
00:16:31,931 --> 00:16:35,071
depending on how knowledgeable
you were of the operations.
290
00:16:35,068 --> 00:16:36,758
There was also
a door in the back.
291
00:16:36,758 --> 00:16:38,378
Yeah, we had been known
to sneak past
292
00:16:38,379 --> 00:16:39,549
the first line of defense
293
00:16:39,551 --> 00:16:41,931
and trying to take a peek
and see what folks were doing.
294
00:16:43,620 --> 00:16:47,480
But Idlewild was
unique among resorts.
295
00:16:47,482 --> 00:16:49,142
Since the 1930s,
296
00:16:49,137 --> 00:16:52,827
if was one of the few safe
havens for Black Americans,
297
00:16:52,827 --> 00:16:55,207
even in the integrated north.
298
00:16:57,655 --> 00:16:59,995
One thing about
segregation in the South
299
00:17:00,000 --> 00:17:03,660
is that it was mandated
by law.
300
00:17:03,655 --> 00:17:05,685
But in the north,
301
00:17:05,689 --> 00:17:09,309
you had separation
by custom,
302
00:17:09,310 --> 00:17:10,970
by practice.
303
00:17:10,965 --> 00:17:12,405
And so in the north,
304
00:17:12,413 --> 00:17:14,693
Blacks and whites,
for example,
305
00:17:14,689 --> 00:17:17,309
would live in largely
separate neighborhoods.
306
00:17:17,310 --> 00:17:19,550
The children would go
to separate schools.
307
00:17:19,551 --> 00:17:21,171
What happened in reality
308
00:17:21,172 --> 00:17:23,382
was that separate was
rarely equal.
309
00:17:26,103 --> 00:17:28,973
When Black Americans
faced racism,
310
00:17:28,965 --> 00:17:35,205
some entrepreneurs saw an
opportunity to make money.
311
00:17:35,206 --> 00:17:39,166
Idlewild was actually started
by four white entrepreneurs.
312
00:17:39,172 --> 00:17:43,552
They possibly had
a moral purpose
behind their enterprise,
313
00:17:43,551 --> 00:17:47,241
but they also realized
the potential
to tap into the Black dollar.
314
00:17:48,689 --> 00:17:53,409
Idlewild was probably the most
popular vacation destination
315
00:17:53,413 --> 00:17:55,103
for African-American families.
316
00:17:58,413 --> 00:18:02,833
It is said that there
would be 25,000 people here
on a weekend,
317
00:18:02,827 --> 00:18:06,897
which is just an
absurd number of folks.
318
00:18:06,896 --> 00:18:08,996
People from Chicago, Indianapolis,
319
00:18:09,000 --> 00:18:11,140
Detroit,
all those cities around,
320
00:18:11,137 --> 00:18:13,137
would really
come into the area.
321
00:18:13,137 --> 00:18:18,277
So it was really huge
during that time period.
322
00:18:18,275 --> 00:18:20,405
I always wanted
to go to Idlewild
323
00:18:20,413 --> 00:18:22,973
to see what it looked like
as a vacation spot,
324
00:18:22,965 --> 00:18:24,445
as a resort, as a town.
325
00:18:24,448 --> 00:18:28,448
I just wanted to see what
the community looked
and felt like.
326
00:18:32,586 --> 00:18:33,826
But for some,
327
00:18:33,827 --> 00:18:36,857
Idlewild was more than
a summer retreat.
328
00:18:36,862 --> 00:18:40,592
It became a place for
Black business to thrive.
329
00:18:40,586 --> 00:18:43,516
Herman and Lela Wilson were
some of the first settlers.
330
00:18:47,862 --> 00:18:49,622
They lived
right across the street.
331
00:18:49,620 --> 00:18:52,070
And that small garage you can
see, right behind it,
332
00:18:52,068 --> 00:18:54,068
is actually where
their grocery store started.
333
00:18:55,068 --> 00:18:57,828
The Wilsons sold holiday homes
334
00:18:57,827 --> 00:19:00,787
and built the store
to provide for the residents.
335
00:19:02,103 --> 00:19:04,973
They started
a small setup
336
00:19:04,965 --> 00:19:08,375
in the little garage
attached to their house
337
00:19:08,379 --> 00:19:10,409
and really discovered
that they were the need.
338
00:19:10,413 --> 00:19:11,863
I mean, as far as
groceries were concerned,
339
00:19:11,862 --> 00:19:13,832
you could get pretty much
everything you needed here.
340
00:19:16,448 --> 00:19:19,308
But now,
businesses like Wilson's
341
00:19:19,310 --> 00:19:21,970
and the Flamingo Club
are closed.
342
00:19:21,965 --> 00:19:25,095
Rows of holiday homes
are empty.
343
00:19:25,103 --> 00:19:29,143
Guest numbers plummeted
in the summer of 1964.
344
00:19:30,931 --> 00:19:33,031
The Civil Rights Act of 1964
345
00:19:33,034 --> 00:19:35,344
was a high point of
the Civil Rights movement
346
00:19:35,344 --> 00:19:38,974
and it removed key barriers
that African Americans faced.
347
00:19:38,965 --> 00:19:43,335
So it meant greater mobility,
access and opportunity.
348
00:19:45,241 --> 00:19:49,381
What that does is it
sets the table for Black folk
349
00:19:49,379 --> 00:19:54,479
no longer wanting to just
live in a Black community.
350
00:19:54,482 --> 00:19:57,452
Now people were like, "No, we
no longer need the safe haven
351
00:19:57,448 --> 00:19:59,028
that this place once provided.
352
00:19:59,034 --> 00:20:02,174
We feel empowered
and embolden
353
00:20:02,172 --> 00:20:06,972
to go to some of these
white places now.
354
00:20:06,965 --> 00:20:09,655
Black Americans
flocked to vacation spots
355
00:20:09,655 --> 00:20:12,235
all across the United States.
356
00:20:12,241 --> 00:20:15,661
Idlewild's unique
selling point had gone.
357
00:20:17,931 --> 00:20:20,141
Everybody went
and explored everything,
358
00:20:20,137 --> 00:20:22,337
and that's perfectly understandable.
359
00:20:22,344 --> 00:20:24,524
And Las Vegas started
pulling a lot of acts.
360
00:20:24,517 --> 00:20:26,757
Atlantic City started
pulling a lot of acts.
361
00:20:26,758 --> 00:20:27,968
They had access to capital
362
00:20:27,965 --> 00:20:30,205
that entrepreneurs
in Idlewild did not have.
363
00:20:31,448 --> 00:20:33,138
By the end of the '60s,
364
00:20:33,137 --> 00:20:37,377
Idlewild had only a fraction
of the guests it once had.
365
00:20:37,379 --> 00:20:42,449
The heady days as America's
Black Eden were over.
366
00:20:42,448 --> 00:20:46,858
We in America of
African descent wear a mask.
367
00:20:46,862 --> 00:20:48,382
We have two faces.
368
00:20:48,379 --> 00:20:50,999
We have the face for White
America that we put forward,
369
00:20:51,000 --> 00:20:52,720
and we the face that
we put forward
370
00:20:52,724 --> 00:20:54,864
when we're within our tribe.
371
00:20:54,862 --> 00:20:59,212
So at a place like Idlewild,
you were with your tribe.
372
00:20:59,206 --> 00:21:02,476
So you could let down your
guard, you could be authentic
373
00:21:02,482 --> 00:21:04,792
and you could have
a deep sigh of relief.
374
00:21:12,379 --> 00:21:14,139
For six decades,
375
00:21:14,137 --> 00:21:17,167
people like Blair have
kept the resort open,
376
00:21:17,172 --> 00:21:20,242
keeping the flame lit
at America's Black Eden.
377
00:21:22,379 --> 00:21:26,689
There really is
an amazing depth of
self-reliance,
378
00:21:26,689 --> 00:21:28,929
entrepreneurship,
self-determination
379
00:21:28,931 --> 00:21:30,341
that really emerged
in this place
380
00:21:30,344 --> 00:21:32,694
when it wasn't in
other places.
381
00:21:32,689 --> 00:21:36,099
And I think that can point us
towards a lot of possibilities
for the future,
382
00:21:36,103 --> 00:21:38,033
in addition to
understanding the past.
383
00:21:43,827 --> 00:21:45,547
In Marin County,
384
00:21:45,551 --> 00:21:48,311
just north of
the Golden Gate Bridge,
385
00:21:48,310 --> 00:21:51,280
is a site that helped
usher in a new era
386
00:21:51,275 --> 00:21:54,585
in the way America
and the world communicated.
387
00:21:59,448 --> 00:22:01,658
This is such a beautiful
part of America
388
00:22:01,655 --> 00:22:03,965
with the most amazing views
of the Pacific Ocean.
389
00:22:06,517 --> 00:22:09,137
Lots of people
pass through this area,
390
00:22:09,137 --> 00:22:11,657
maybe they're on a hike,
they're going surfing,
391
00:22:11,655 --> 00:22:14,515
but they're completely
oblivious to
the rich history of this site.
392
00:22:16,551 --> 00:22:19,551
One feature of
the landscape
that is hard to ignore
393
00:22:19,551 --> 00:22:23,101
is a collection of
tall thin masts.
394
00:22:23,103 --> 00:22:26,693
But there are other things
here that are harder to spot.
395
00:22:26,689 --> 00:22:27,999
Down near the coast,
396
00:22:28,000 --> 00:22:31,590
there's this large
abandoned-looking building
397
00:22:31,586 --> 00:22:33,856
hidden amongst the trees.
398
00:22:35,689 --> 00:22:36,859
Once upon a time,
399
00:22:36,862 --> 00:22:39,862
it concealed
a revolutionary machine.
400
00:22:39,862 --> 00:22:41,692
In that far building,
401
00:22:41,689 --> 00:22:45,339
it was truly
Frankenstein stuff.
402
00:22:45,344 --> 00:22:46,864
High-voltage, sparks,
403
00:22:46,862 --> 00:22:49,662
and it sent an
enormous bolt of electricity
404
00:22:49,655 --> 00:22:51,995
through that antenna.
405
00:22:52,000 --> 00:22:55,450
And it was called into action
on a momentous day.
406
00:22:57,275 --> 00:23:00,305
One of the most
traumatic events
in American history
407
00:23:00,310 --> 00:23:02,380
has a direct link
to this site.
408
00:23:02,379 --> 00:23:06,239
But it's one that actually
gets left out
in history lessons.
409
00:23:19,344 --> 00:23:22,904
On the Pacific Coast
just north of San Francisco,
410
00:23:22,896 --> 00:23:28,066
two large buildings stand
at either end
of a vast plot of land.
411
00:23:28,068 --> 00:23:30,858
One is in serious disrepair.
412
00:23:30,862 --> 00:23:35,692
The second one is a gorgeous
white art deco-style building.
413
00:23:35,689 --> 00:23:38,169
You can see the wires
coming off the masts
414
00:23:38,172 --> 00:23:40,382
and going into
the white building.
415
00:23:40,379 --> 00:23:42,139
So it's beginning
to become clear
416
00:23:42,137 --> 00:23:45,027
that this is some sort of
radio communication site.
417
00:23:47,689 --> 00:23:52,759
Written on one side
is "RCA Communications Inc."
418
00:23:52,758 --> 00:23:55,788
The Radio Corporation
of America.
419
00:23:55,793 --> 00:24:00,553
They built this communications
hub between 1929 and 1931.
420
00:24:01,896 --> 00:24:04,896
Inside, you've got these
old machines
421
00:24:04,896 --> 00:24:06,996
that are still working
and humming away.
422
00:24:08,482 --> 00:24:11,382
It's kind of this,
you know, treasure trove
423
00:24:11,379 --> 00:24:12,759
of old radio tech,
424
00:24:12,758 --> 00:24:15,618
which is really cool.
425
00:24:15,620 --> 00:24:19,590
But the story here begins in
the fields to the northeast
426
00:24:19,586 --> 00:24:23,026
with the few remaining pieces
of a pioneering structure.
427
00:24:26,103 --> 00:24:28,313
In the early teens
of the last century,
428
00:24:28,310 --> 00:24:30,900
nothing that
we see behind us existed.
429
00:24:30,896 --> 00:24:32,856
But they decided this
was the spot
430
00:24:32,862 --> 00:24:34,972
that they would
build their radio station.
431
00:24:36,551 --> 00:24:39,791
Richard Dillman,
chief operator
of today's station,
432
00:24:39,793 --> 00:24:42,523
knows how to untangle
the old from the new.
433
00:24:43,586 --> 00:24:44,756
What we see here
434
00:24:44,758 --> 00:24:47,138
is the base of one of
the antenna masts
435
00:24:47,137 --> 00:24:48,787
that were here in this field.
436
00:24:48,793 --> 00:24:51,003
You see how big it was
in diameter?
437
00:24:51,000 --> 00:24:52,790
And it was 300 feet tall.
438
00:24:52,793 --> 00:24:56,073
And it was just one of nine
of these massive structures.
439
00:24:59,655 --> 00:25:03,335
These giant towers with
these concrete foundations
440
00:25:03,344 --> 00:25:05,284
and they're
huge and impressive,
441
00:25:05,275 --> 00:25:07,825
but they're just there
to support the cable,
442
00:25:07,827 --> 00:25:10,787
which is actually how
the messages are transmitted.
443
00:25:12,103 --> 00:25:14,343
The company in charge
of the site
444
00:25:14,344 --> 00:25:17,384
was owned by one of
the most celebrated scientists
445
00:25:17,379 --> 00:25:20,339
of the late 19th
and early 20th centuries,
446
00:25:21,482 --> 00:25:23,592
Guglielmo Marconi.
447
00:25:26,896 --> 00:25:29,826
Marconi was an engineer,
inventor and entrepreneur.
448
00:25:29,827 --> 00:25:31,997
And eventual
Nobel Prize-winning scientist.
449
00:25:33,034 --> 00:25:35,034
One of his greatest
contributions to science
450
00:25:35,034 --> 00:25:37,144
was he discovered how to send
and receive Morse code
451
00:25:37,137 --> 00:25:38,307
without wires.
452
00:25:40,206 --> 00:25:42,856
So this wireless
technology was revolutionary.
453
00:25:42,862 --> 00:25:44,522
And it paved the way
454
00:25:44,517 --> 00:25:47,307
for all the technology that
we see before us now.
455
00:25:47,310 --> 00:25:50,210
The little devices that we now
carry with us everywhere,
456
00:25:50,206 --> 00:25:52,996
as a matter, of course,
all have their roots
457
00:25:53,000 --> 00:25:56,660
in the technology that was
pioneered here at this site.
458
00:25:56,655 --> 00:25:58,615
The original
antennas at Bolinas
459
00:25:58,620 --> 00:26:02,030
were erected by Marconi
in 1914
460
00:26:02,034 --> 00:26:04,104
with the purpose of sending
Morse code messages
461
00:26:04,103 --> 00:26:06,483
wirelessly across the Pacific.
462
00:26:06,482 --> 00:26:09,932
But this site was part of
something even bigger,
463
00:26:09,931 --> 00:26:13,281
a global
longwave radio network.
464
00:26:13,275 --> 00:26:16,715
The plan was to have
several high-powered stations
465
00:26:16,724 --> 00:26:19,174
sort of girdle the world
466
00:26:19,172 --> 00:26:23,242
and basically provide
instantaneous communication
467
00:26:23,241 --> 00:26:25,591
from like any point
across the globe.
468
00:26:29,206 --> 00:26:32,586
The antennas were
just one piece of the puzzle.
469
00:26:32,586 --> 00:26:36,096
It was only when they were
hooked up to the building
nearer the coast
470
00:26:36,103 --> 00:26:38,453
that their full potential
was realized.
471
00:26:40,551 --> 00:26:43,901
This building today is in
a sad state of disrepair.
472
00:26:43,896 --> 00:26:45,406
Few people know it's here
473
00:26:45,413 --> 00:26:48,383
and fewer still
know what it was for.
474
00:26:48,379 --> 00:26:50,479
But, in fact,
it played a significant role
475
00:26:50,482 --> 00:26:53,762
in Marconi's plan
for global communications.
476
00:26:56,551 --> 00:26:58,101
This building was
the powerhouse
477
00:26:58,103 --> 00:27:01,003
of the transmitting antennae
that was outside.
478
00:27:02,793 --> 00:27:04,033
To transmit signals
479
00:27:04,034 --> 00:27:06,834
over the vast distances
that Marconi wanted,
480
00:27:06,827 --> 00:27:10,067
a huge amount of energy
needed to be generated.
481
00:27:11,758 --> 00:27:13,548
This is the beating heart of
482
00:27:13,551 --> 00:27:16,381
the Marconi transoceanic
transmitting system.
483
00:27:16,379 --> 00:27:21,099
We're standing right here
where this machinery
was located.
484
00:27:21,103 --> 00:27:24,173
And it was enormous,
loud, dangerous,
485
00:27:24,172 --> 00:27:26,932
high-voltage equipment.
486
00:27:26,931 --> 00:27:30,141
Once the powerful
primary signal
had been produced,
487
00:27:30,137 --> 00:27:33,687
it was then tuned before
being sent along cables
488
00:27:33,689 --> 00:27:35,339
to the antenna field,
489
00:27:35,344 --> 00:27:37,484
where it would then
be broadcast.
490
00:27:39,413 --> 00:27:41,693
One of the main destinations
for these communications
491
00:27:41,689 --> 00:27:45,069
was another Marconi station
on Hawaii.
492
00:27:45,068 --> 00:27:47,618
Hawaii is a gateway
radio communication
493
00:27:47,620 --> 00:27:48,830
to the rest of the world.
494
00:27:48,827 --> 00:27:52,687
So if you get to Hawaii,
you can get everywhere else.
495
00:27:52,689 --> 00:27:55,239
But just nine years
into the life of
496
00:27:55,241 --> 00:27:58,031
the Bolinas longwave
radio station,
497
00:27:58,034 --> 00:28:00,694
Marconi made a
scientific breakthrough
498
00:28:00,689 --> 00:28:02,759
that had major consequences.
499
00:28:03,862 --> 00:28:05,172
In 1923,
500
00:28:05,172 --> 00:28:07,482
he developed a
shortwave beam system.
501
00:28:07,482 --> 00:28:10,282
This had many advantages over
the longwave system.
502
00:28:11,689 --> 00:28:14,519
Shortwave was much
more power efficient,
503
00:28:14,517 --> 00:28:16,857
had far higher quality
504
00:28:16,862 --> 00:28:18,832
and could travel much
further distances.
505
00:28:20,310 --> 00:28:22,140
The arrival of
shortwave technology's
506
00:28:22,137 --> 00:28:24,167
kind of the beginning
of the end
507
00:28:24,172 --> 00:28:26,762
for the original
transmitting station.
508
00:28:26,758 --> 00:28:29,718
It wasn't set up to take
advantage of this new wave
509
00:28:29,724 --> 00:28:30,834
that was coming through.
510
00:28:32,965 --> 00:28:36,095
A newer station
further inland was built,
511
00:28:36,103 --> 00:28:38,763
leaving this one overshadowed.
512
00:28:40,275 --> 00:28:43,065
The original transmitting
station fell largely
into disuse,
513
00:28:43,068 --> 00:28:45,828
but it wasn't completely
shut down.
514
00:28:45,827 --> 00:28:48,477
The new technology,
the shortwave technology
515
00:28:48,482 --> 00:28:50,862
worked great but
it was fickle.
516
00:28:50,862 --> 00:28:52,862
The old technology was solid.
517
00:28:52,862 --> 00:28:54,832
It was there all the time.
518
00:28:54,827 --> 00:28:57,447
It might have been slow and
it might have been expensive,
519
00:28:57,448 --> 00:28:58,898
but it always got through.
520
00:29:02,965 --> 00:29:04,855
And in 1941,
521
00:29:04,862 --> 00:29:07,692
the trustworthy
Bolinas Transmitting Station
522
00:29:07,689 --> 00:29:12,549
stepped up when America was
on the brink of catastrophe.
523
00:29:23,689 --> 00:29:25,689
The Bolinas
Transmitting Station
524
00:29:25,689 --> 00:29:28,379
was a hotbed of
pioneering radio work
525
00:29:28,379 --> 00:29:30,209
throughout the early
20th century.
526
00:29:31,241 --> 00:29:33,211
And in 1941,
527
00:29:33,206 --> 00:29:35,026
the machines here were
called upon
528
00:29:35,034 --> 00:29:38,904
during one of America's most
desperate times of need.
529
00:29:38,896 --> 00:29:41,096
In the latter months of 1941,
530
00:29:41,103 --> 00:29:43,033
it became apparent that
531
00:29:43,034 --> 00:29:44,834
there might be
a conflict in the Pacific
532
00:29:44,827 --> 00:29:48,207
between America
and the Empire of Japan.
533
00:29:49,517 --> 00:29:53,967
On December 7th,
at 12:48 p.m. in Washington,
534
00:29:53,965 --> 00:29:56,445
General Marshall ordered
the following message
535
00:29:56,448 --> 00:29:58,588
to be sent to
Hawaii immediately.
536
00:30:16,482 --> 00:30:19,312
Marshall intended to send
the message via the Army radio
537
00:30:19,310 --> 00:30:20,970
but the shortwave
transmission failed
538
00:30:20,965 --> 00:30:23,475
due to atmospheric conditions.
539
00:30:23,482 --> 00:30:26,592
The Army radio
system was not up to the job.
540
00:30:26,586 --> 00:30:29,096
But they knew that this
antique technology
541
00:30:29,103 --> 00:30:30,903
would get the message across.
542
00:30:30,896 --> 00:30:32,826
And that's how
the message was sent,
543
00:30:32,827 --> 00:30:35,927
through this building
to Hawaii.
544
00:30:35,931 --> 00:30:39,551
They were in
urgent need of a powerful
longwave transmitter
545
00:30:39,551 --> 00:30:42,001
and Bolinas stepped in
to save the day.
546
00:30:44,034 --> 00:30:49,074
The message arrived
at 7:33 a.m., Honolulu time.
547
00:30:49,068 --> 00:30:51,928
The attack
began 22 minutes later.
548
00:30:52,689 --> 00:30:54,139
But for some reason,
549
00:30:54,137 --> 00:30:56,337
the message
wasn't flagged as urgent
550
00:30:56,344 --> 00:30:58,174
and wasn't
decoded and delivered
551
00:30:58,172 --> 00:31:03,072
to the Pacific Fleet HQ
for another seven hours.
552
00:31:03,068 --> 00:31:07,068
So it arrived on
the deaths of Admiral Kimmel
and General Short
553
00:31:07,068 --> 00:31:10,378
as the Japanese planes
were retreating
towards their carriers.
554
00:31:10,379 --> 00:31:13,029
And they did not
get the message in time.
555
00:31:13,034 --> 00:31:15,594
There's a great
unanswered mystery.
556
00:31:15,586 --> 00:31:17,926
The priority stamp
was not put on that message.
557
00:31:22,000 --> 00:31:25,070
More than 2,400
Americans died in the attack
558
00:31:25,068 --> 00:31:28,098
and another 1,000 people
were wounded.
559
00:31:28,103 --> 00:31:30,283
But how much difference
it would have made
560
00:31:30,275 --> 00:31:33,305
if the message was
read earlier is questionable.
561
00:31:35,275 --> 00:31:38,965
Admiral Kimmel and
General Short were under
very strict orders
562
00:31:38,965 --> 00:31:41,515
about what they could do
in the way of preparation
563
00:31:41,517 --> 00:31:44,687
to avoid the appearance of
a panic on the island.
564
00:31:44,689 --> 00:31:46,759
So how much of a change
it would have made,
565
00:31:46,758 --> 00:31:48,138
that's open to debate.
566
00:31:50,724 --> 00:31:53,384
In the decades
following World War II,
567
00:31:53,379 --> 00:31:56,449
both building were refitted
with newer transmitters
568
00:31:56,448 --> 00:32:00,408
before finally ceasing
operations in the 1970s.
569
00:32:07,034 --> 00:32:10,524
The Bolinas site sat empty
and neglected for years
570
00:32:10,517 --> 00:32:13,377
until a group of
radio enthusiasts began
571
00:32:13,379 --> 00:32:17,589
breathing new life into
the station in 1999.
572
00:32:17,586 --> 00:32:20,096
And it remains
operational today.
573
00:32:21,482 --> 00:32:24,172
It's a ship-to-shore
communication station now
574
00:32:24,172 --> 00:32:27,242
and we're operating this
station just as it always has.
575
00:32:27,241 --> 00:32:30,931
Tradition is enormously
important to us.
576
00:32:30,931 --> 00:32:32,791
The original
transmitting building
577
00:32:32,793 --> 00:32:35,933
is now in the process
of being restored
578
00:32:35,931 --> 00:32:41,281
so more people can
appreciate its little-known
World War II story.
579
00:32:42,793 --> 00:32:44,793
That building is the locus
580
00:32:44,793 --> 00:32:48,723
of a very important element
in communications history,
581
00:32:48,724 --> 00:32:49,934
political history
582
00:32:49,931 --> 00:32:52,691
and military history of
the United States of America.
583
00:33:01,413 --> 00:33:03,103
In the prairie state,
584
00:33:03,103 --> 00:33:07,413
near the Mississippi River
is an ancient wonder
585
00:33:07,413 --> 00:33:09,523
hidden in plain sight.
586
00:33:15,137 --> 00:33:17,587
We're just outside St. Louis
587
00:33:17,586 --> 00:33:19,996
and it's calm, it's quiet,
588
00:33:20,000 --> 00:33:21,480
it feels natural,
589
00:33:21,482 --> 00:33:23,762
but, in reality,
it's not natural at all.
590
00:33:26,000 --> 00:33:27,620
Across this landscape,
591
00:33:27,620 --> 00:33:29,720
mounds erupt from the ground.
592
00:33:30,862 --> 00:33:33,072
When you start
to look around
593
00:33:33,068 --> 00:33:35,788
and see the sheer number
of these mounds,
594
00:33:35,793 --> 00:33:37,623
but also the shape,
595
00:33:37,620 --> 00:33:40,520
it becomes clear that
these were made by humans.
596
00:33:42,000 --> 00:33:44,140
You get the sense
that each one is hiding
597
00:33:44,137 --> 00:33:47,137
some kind of secret
about the site.
598
00:33:47,137 --> 00:33:49,857
And that must mean that
the biggest mound of them all
599
00:33:49,862 --> 00:33:52,312
must hold the greatest
secret of all.
600
00:33:53,965 --> 00:33:54,855
Well, ahead of us,
601
00:33:54,862 --> 00:33:57,412
we can see
a large earthing structure
602
00:33:57,413 --> 00:34:00,073
that was built by
the American Indians here.
603
00:34:00,068 --> 00:34:01,928
And it's the center of
the site.
604
00:34:03,172 --> 00:34:06,212
Dating back
over 1,000 years,
605
00:34:06,206 --> 00:34:09,996
this was once the focal point
of an ancient civilization.
606
00:34:11,586 --> 00:34:17,926
It was the largest prehistoric
American Indian settlement
north of Mexico.
607
00:34:17,931 --> 00:34:19,901
But despite
its significance,
608
00:34:19,896 --> 00:34:22,446
many have
never heard of this place.
609
00:34:23,965 --> 00:34:25,545
There is a huge road
610
00:34:25,551 --> 00:34:28,001
that runs right through
the center of the site.
611
00:34:29,206 --> 00:34:30,756
If somebody was
driving down this road,
612
00:34:30,758 --> 00:34:32,478
they probably wouldn't
have any idea
613
00:34:32,482 --> 00:34:33,482
that they were driving through
614
00:34:33,482 --> 00:34:35,412
one of the most
important sites in America.
615
00:34:41,724 --> 00:34:44,034
Known as Monks Mound,
616
00:34:44,034 --> 00:34:47,594
this vast man-made structure
dominates the site.
617
00:34:49,586 --> 00:34:50,756
Where we're standing is
618
00:34:50,758 --> 00:34:53,408
the largest prehistoric
earthwork in the Americas.
619
00:34:53,413 --> 00:34:54,973
It's the largest
holy earthing mound
620
00:34:54,965 --> 00:34:57,995
built by ancient people
in the Western Hemisphere.
621
00:34:59,172 --> 00:35:01,622
Bill Iseminger
spent 50 years
622
00:35:01,620 --> 00:35:04,690
as the site's archaeologist
and curator.
623
00:35:04,689 --> 00:35:07,619
The base of it covers
over 14 acres
624
00:35:07,620 --> 00:35:09,450
and it stands 100 feet high,
625
00:35:09,448 --> 00:35:11,478
has several
different terraces.
626
00:35:11,482 --> 00:35:13,102
We're standing
on the first terrace.
627
00:35:13,103 --> 00:35:15,243
So there's two levels
up on top
628
00:35:15,241 --> 00:35:18,001
and a smaller terrace off
on the west side.
629
00:35:21,413 --> 00:35:24,933
We look at our cities,
including nearby St. Louis,
630
00:35:24,931 --> 00:35:27,141
and we see tall buildings.
631
00:35:27,137 --> 00:35:31,137
But, incredibly,
this human-made structure
632
00:35:31,137 --> 00:35:33,967
was the tallest structure
in the United States
633
00:35:33,965 --> 00:35:36,375
into the mid-19th century.
634
00:35:39,172 --> 00:35:43,662
This lower terrace would've
held a number of structures.
635
00:35:43,655 --> 00:35:47,205
But a large building atop
the mound was the focal point.
636
00:35:48,965 --> 00:35:50,655
We found evidence of
a huge building.
637
00:35:50,655 --> 00:35:53,925
It was over 100 feet long,
almost 50 feet wide
638
00:35:53,931 --> 00:35:57,101
and maybe 30-40 feet tall, originally.
639
00:35:57,103 --> 00:35:58,903
It probably had
multiple functions.
640
00:35:58,896 --> 00:36:02,826
But this was the seat of
religious and political power
and authority.
641
00:36:04,931 --> 00:36:08,071
Built by a people
known as the Mississippians,
642
00:36:08,068 --> 00:36:11,718
this great mound was
the heart of an ancient city,
643
00:36:11,724 --> 00:36:14,174
Cahokia.
644
00:36:14,172 --> 00:36:18,832
This culture existed largely
between 800 and 1,500 AD.
645
00:36:18,827 --> 00:36:21,237
But it's really
1,000 years ago
646
00:36:21,241 --> 00:36:24,551
when the peak of this site
actually was.
647
00:36:24,551 --> 00:36:27,311
But while this may
have been the seat of power,
648
00:36:27,310 --> 00:36:29,170
archaeological finds elsewhere
649
00:36:29,172 --> 00:36:32,002
reveal another side
to this civilization.
650
00:36:35,862 --> 00:36:39,032
The mounds weren't
all necessarily meant
to be built upon.
651
00:36:39,034 --> 00:36:40,864
Some of them hide
a darker secret.
652
00:36:55,931 --> 00:37:01,521
The main site of
Cahokia stretched across
roughly 6 square miles.
653
00:37:01,517 --> 00:37:07,657
Today, 80 of the original
120 mounds remain.
654
00:37:07,655 --> 00:37:10,855
It's important to
understand that there were
no domesticated animals.
655
00:37:10,862 --> 00:37:13,972
So everything from the digging
to carrying the soil
656
00:37:13,965 --> 00:37:15,825
to dropping it
in different sites,
657
00:37:15,827 --> 00:37:18,237
this was all done by people.
658
00:37:23,103 --> 00:37:24,863
We've got
a variety of artifacts
659
00:37:24,862 --> 00:37:28,002
that are representative of
Mississippian culture.
660
00:37:28,000 --> 00:37:30,690
Um, one of the more
notable ones is
661
00:37:30,689 --> 00:37:32,659
this item we call a hoe.
662
00:37:33,965 --> 00:37:35,375
Well, this is what they use
to dig the dirt
663
00:37:35,379 --> 00:37:36,719
to build these mounds.
664
00:37:39,206 --> 00:37:40,826
For the last century,
665
00:37:40,827 --> 00:37:43,407
excavations have been undertaken,
666
00:37:43,413 --> 00:37:46,483
and slowly,
they've revealed a picture
667
00:37:46,482 --> 00:37:50,622
of this sophisticated
hierarchical society.
668
00:37:50,620 --> 00:37:54,170
So there's clues
in everything we find,
669
00:37:54,172 --> 00:37:55,722
even the soil itself.
670
00:37:55,724 --> 00:37:59,384
The pollen grains in the soil
will tell us something about
the vegetation
671
00:37:59,379 --> 00:38:01,549
and the kinds of plants that
were around and growing,
672
00:38:01,551 --> 00:38:03,661
the kinds of food
they were eating.
673
00:38:03,655 --> 00:38:07,135
And in garbage pits, we find
a lot of the animal bone.
674
00:38:07,137 --> 00:38:10,167
So we know that they were
doing a lot of fishing.
675
00:38:12,206 --> 00:38:14,716
Everything we find give us
a little bit of more insights
676
00:38:14,724 --> 00:38:17,524
into what daily life was like
here at Cahokia.
677
00:38:19,103 --> 00:38:23,143
As the site grew,
so too did the population.
678
00:38:23,137 --> 00:38:25,407
From around 1050 AD,
679
00:38:25,413 --> 00:38:28,243
it went from just a couple
of thousand inhabitants
680
00:38:28,241 --> 00:38:32,931
to somewhere between 10 and
20,000 half a century later.
681
00:38:34,689 --> 00:38:37,449
We're standing in
the grand plaza right now
682
00:38:37,448 --> 00:38:39,478
and we're at
the southern end of it.
683
00:38:39,482 --> 00:38:41,662
It covers almost 40 acres
684
00:38:41,655 --> 00:38:43,895
and it would be used as
a public gathering place.
685
00:38:43,896 --> 00:38:46,096
So for ceremonies
and rituals and games
686
00:38:46,103 --> 00:38:48,863
and markets and other kinds
of public activities.
687
00:38:48,862 --> 00:38:51,342
At around 1,100 AD,
688
00:38:51,344 --> 00:38:53,214
Cahokia would have been
larger than London
689
00:38:53,206 --> 00:38:54,546
and maybe even Paris.
690
00:38:54,551 --> 00:38:56,211
You know, people don't often
realize that we had
691
00:38:56,206 --> 00:38:58,786
something that big here
in America.
692
00:39:00,586 --> 00:39:04,476
But while this city
radiated power and authority,
693
00:39:04,482 --> 00:39:07,342
by no means was it free
from troubles.
694
00:39:08,965 --> 00:39:11,135
We know from
the digs around here
695
00:39:11,137 --> 00:39:14,167
that there actually was
a fence, so to speak,
696
00:39:14,172 --> 00:39:16,412
that was about 2 miles
in circumference
697
00:39:16,413 --> 00:39:19,313
that surrounded the key
central part of the city.
698
00:39:20,655 --> 00:39:23,545
It also indicates that
warfare and conflict
699
00:39:23,551 --> 00:39:27,141
was a common part
of Mississippian culture
by this time.
700
00:39:27,137 --> 00:39:28,547
And we see not just Cahokia,
701
00:39:28,551 --> 00:39:31,691
but a lot of other
Mississippian sites are
being fortified as well.
702
00:39:33,310 --> 00:39:35,410
Yet, while warring
neighbors may have been
703
00:39:35,413 --> 00:39:38,283
the greatest threat
to the city's inhabitants
704
00:39:38,275 --> 00:39:40,205
before the walls were built,
705
00:39:40,206 --> 00:39:43,206
evidence found at the site
points to the fact that,
706
00:39:43,206 --> 00:39:46,336
for some, the dangers
were closer to home.
707
00:39:48,413 --> 00:39:51,453
There is suggestion that
perhaps they practiced
708
00:39:51,448 --> 00:39:52,758
human sacrifices,
709
00:39:52,758 --> 00:39:54,448
because underneath
some of the mounds
710
00:39:54,448 --> 00:39:58,208
have been found victims
of appalling injuries.
711
00:40:00,000 --> 00:40:03,170
In the site named
Mound 72,
712
00:40:03,172 --> 00:40:08,072
a 1967 excavation revealed
a possible burial of a leader
713
00:40:08,068 --> 00:40:11,238
and the remains of
numerous individuals
714
00:40:11,241 --> 00:40:13,211
likely from the nearby area.
715
00:40:16,655 --> 00:40:19,655
There was one pit
that had 53 women in it,
716
00:40:19,655 --> 00:40:22,065
all about 15 to 25 years old
717
00:40:22,068 --> 00:40:24,408
and apparently
have been sacrificed.
718
00:40:24,413 --> 00:40:26,213
Next to them were four men
719
00:40:26,206 --> 00:40:28,516
that had their heads
and their hands cut off
720
00:40:28,517 --> 00:40:30,097
apparently in some ritual.
721
00:40:31,482 --> 00:40:34,662
It's really not been found
at other places,
722
00:40:34,655 --> 00:40:35,925
you know,
throughout the Midwest
723
00:40:35,931 --> 00:40:38,141
with that kind of
burial treatment--
724
00:40:38,137 --> 00:40:40,407
the mess,
the sacrifices and everything.
725
00:40:40,413 --> 00:40:42,213
So, something different
was going on then.
726
00:40:42,206 --> 00:40:46,206
But that's not typical of most
Mississippian places.
727
00:40:48,620 --> 00:40:51,590
Whatever these
mass burials signified,
728
00:40:51,586 --> 00:40:54,276
the greatest mystery remains.
729
00:40:54,275 --> 00:41:00,825
Why did the population
begin to disappear
from around 1,200 AD?
730
00:41:00,827 --> 00:41:02,407
There could have been
a number of things
731
00:41:02,413 --> 00:41:04,343
that contributed to
its decline.
732
00:41:04,344 --> 00:41:06,524
Perhaps political unrest,
733
00:41:06,517 --> 00:41:08,787
drought, famine, disease.
734
00:41:12,482 --> 00:41:13,972
The answers
are out there.
735
00:41:13,965 --> 00:41:16,925
But with archaeology,
it's a long process.
736
00:41:16,931 --> 00:41:18,971
The answers are literally
in the ground.
737
00:41:18,965 --> 00:41:20,995
They're there,
but they must be discovered.
738
00:41:30,000 --> 00:41:33,550
While many questions
about Cahokia remain,
739
00:41:33,551 --> 00:41:37,691
the site still offers up
much to learn from.
740
00:41:37,689 --> 00:41:39,239
Looking at lost cities
741
00:41:39,241 --> 00:41:41,101
and declined civilizations
like this
742
00:41:41,103 --> 00:41:44,623
is powerful and resonant
in the present
743
00:41:44,620 --> 00:41:47,620
because it reminds us of
the fragility
744
00:41:47,620 --> 00:41:50,030
and vulnerability of
our own cities,
745
00:41:50,034 --> 00:41:52,664
our own settlements
in the present day.
746
00:41:52,655 --> 00:41:54,655
And perhaps that can
provoke us
747
00:41:54,655 --> 00:41:57,925
to take a bit more care
with our environment
748
00:41:57,931 --> 00:42:00,211
and safeguarding the future.
59613
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