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These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:01,862 --> 00:00:04,206 Abandoned structures hold the secrets 2 00:00:04,206 --> 00:00:06,517 of America's past. 3 00:00:06,517 --> 00:00:09,724 A national treasure once sailed the seas, 4 00:00:09,724 --> 00:00:12,275 holding a mystery in its belly. 5 00:00:12,275 --> 00:00:14,275 My grandfather once said 6 00:00:14,275 --> 00:00:16,448 that "everyone would like to know the top speed, 7 00:00:16,448 --> 00:00:18,241 but Uncle Joe Stalin, 8 00:00:18,241 --> 00:00:20,482 he's not gonna find out." 9 00:00:20,482 --> 00:00:21,862 A clifftop complex 10 00:00:21,862 --> 00:00:24,344 that kept America at the cutting edge 11 00:00:24,344 --> 00:00:27,551 of a global technological revolution. 12 00:00:27,551 --> 00:00:30,931 It's the very root of what we all carry in our pockets today. 13 00:00:30,931 --> 00:00:33,310 This is where it all began. 14 00:00:33,310 --> 00:00:35,137 And a frozen neighborhood, 15 00:00:35,137 --> 00:00:38,827 once a safe haven for thousands of Americans. 16 00:00:38,827 --> 00:00:40,862 You could kind of work with people 17 00:00:40,862 --> 00:00:41,827 and meet with people 18 00:00:41,827 --> 00:00:43,827 and experience people in an environment 19 00:00:43,827 --> 00:00:46,827 that was nonjudgmental of who you were. 20 00:00:49,965 --> 00:00:52,241 Scattered across the United States 21 00:00:52,241 --> 00:00:54,241 are abandoned structures, 22 00:00:55,448 --> 00:00:57,862 forgotten ruins of the past, 23 00:00:57,862 --> 00:01:01,310 monuments to a bygone era. 24 00:01:02,482 --> 00:01:06,620 Each shines a light on the story of this land 25 00:01:06,620 --> 00:01:08,689 and its people. 26 00:01:08,689 --> 00:01:12,862 These are the secrets of hidden America. 27 00:01:22,172 --> 00:01:23,724 In Philadelphia, 28 00:01:23,724 --> 00:01:26,517 a pinnacle of American engineering 29 00:01:26,517 --> 00:01:28,551 rusts in the Delaware River. 30 00:01:36,413 --> 00:01:40,931 A lot of these piers have really fallen into disuse. 31 00:01:42,172 --> 00:01:46,000 But at one pier, you see this massive ship. 32 00:01:46,551 --> 00:01:47,793 It's not a cargo ship. 33 00:01:47,793 --> 00:01:49,206 It's sleek and trim. 34 00:01:49,206 --> 00:01:51,379 It's a passenger vessel. 35 00:01:51,379 --> 00:01:56,137 But it is in really poor shape. 36 00:01:56,137 --> 00:02:00,103 On board is a labyrinth of corridors and hatches. 37 00:02:01,758 --> 00:02:03,172 Inside is peeling paint, 38 00:02:03,172 --> 00:02:05,034 dead wires dangling from the ceiling. 39 00:02:05,034 --> 00:02:07,793 There are no distinguishing features to orientate yourself. 40 00:02:07,793 --> 00:02:12,034 Everything has been removed, including the interior walls. 41 00:02:12,034 --> 00:02:15,172 This vessel is a diamond in the rough. 42 00:02:15,172 --> 00:02:16,482 It may be rusting, 43 00:02:16,482 --> 00:02:20,896 but beneath that grime is an amazing story. 44 00:02:20,896 --> 00:02:26,206 This ship was once the most famous passenger liner in America. 45 00:02:26,206 --> 00:02:29,448 But few knew what was going on below deck. 46 00:02:30,758 --> 00:02:34,655 These were top-drawer national secrets, 47 00:02:34,655 --> 00:02:36,482 highly classified by the Pentagon 48 00:02:36,482 --> 00:02:39,068 and they weren't released to the public for decades. 49 00:02:43,793 --> 00:02:45,310 The stories of this vessel 50 00:02:45,310 --> 00:02:49,068 have passed through the generations of one family. 51 00:02:49,068 --> 00:02:53,206 Susan Gibbs is the granddaughter of the man who built it. 52 00:02:55,034 --> 00:02:58,758 The first time I came on board the ship, 53 00:02:58,758 --> 00:03:01,724 I was haunted a bit. 54 00:03:01,724 --> 00:03:06,965 It's seemed like everyone had forgotten about the ship. 55 00:03:06,965 --> 00:03:09,896 Today, the ship floats by the pier, 56 00:03:09,896 --> 00:03:11,931 unnoticed by most. 57 00:03:11,931 --> 00:03:15,206 But 50 years ago, it was the most luxurious 58 00:03:15,206 --> 00:03:17,931 American ocean liner on the seas, 59 00:03:17,931 --> 00:03:19,931 featuring a swimming pool, 60 00:03:19,931 --> 00:03:21,344 two bars, 61 00:03:21,344 --> 00:03:22,586 two theaters 62 00:03:22,586 --> 00:03:25,793 and a place for the rich and famous to party. 63 00:03:28,689 --> 00:03:32,724 We are entering the grand ballroom. 64 00:03:32,724 --> 00:03:38,551 You can imagine women in gowns and stoles and... 65 00:03:38,551 --> 00:03:40,517 men in their dapper tuxedos 66 00:03:40,517 --> 00:03:43,310 and listening to the music, 67 00:03:43,310 --> 00:03:46,344 which would have been over there. 68 00:03:46,344 --> 00:03:49,965 It just would've been so magical. 69 00:03:53,275 --> 00:03:54,586 The ship played host 70 00:03:54,586 --> 00:03:57,862 to all sorts of celebrities of the day. 71 00:03:57,862 --> 00:03:59,344 Salvador Dali, 72 00:03:59,344 --> 00:04:00,379 Duke Ellington, 73 00:04:00,379 --> 00:04:01,862 the Kennedys, 74 00:04:01,862 --> 00:04:03,724 even John Wayne. 75 00:04:05,793 --> 00:04:08,862 This is the SS United States, 76 00:04:08,862 --> 00:04:11,586 a 50,000-ton steamship, 77 00:04:11,586 --> 00:04:15,000 the most sophisticated high-tech vessel of its day. 78 00:04:17,275 --> 00:04:20,517 It was an absolute masterpiece of marine architecture. 79 00:04:20,517 --> 00:04:24,413 And it integrated all of the latest technologies 80 00:04:24,413 --> 00:04:29,586 that could make a ship sleek and fast and elegant. 81 00:04:29,586 --> 00:04:31,862 If you look closer at the chimney stacks, 82 00:04:31,862 --> 00:04:35,103 you can see they have a very unusual design. 83 00:04:35,103 --> 00:04:38,310 These are pointed almost like an aircraft's wing, 84 00:04:38,310 --> 00:04:40,000 but on its side. 85 00:04:40,000 --> 00:04:42,275 It's one of the many quirks of this vessel. 86 00:04:47,793 --> 00:04:51,931 The stacks are part of a number of innovative design choices 87 00:04:51,931 --> 00:04:55,793 from the mind of one man from Pennsylvania, 88 00:04:55,793 --> 00:04:59,931 a man called William Francis Gibbs. 89 00:04:59,931 --> 00:05:04,827 My grandfather was obsessed with ships since childhood. 90 00:05:04,827 --> 00:05:08,000 And even when he went on to Harvard, 91 00:05:08,000 --> 00:05:10,551 uh, to study, 92 00:05:10,551 --> 00:05:14,068 he would spend a lot of his time in his dorm room 93 00:05:14,068 --> 00:05:18,517 designing ships and neglecting his formal studies. 94 00:05:18,517 --> 00:05:20,137 When he was still a student, 95 00:05:20,137 --> 00:05:22,551 Gibbs drew the design for what would become 96 00:05:22,551 --> 00:05:24,172 the SS United States. 97 00:05:25,379 --> 00:05:28,344 He called it his "perfect ship." 98 00:05:28,344 --> 00:05:31,965 But two world wars saw those plans put in a drawer. 99 00:05:33,344 --> 00:05:34,620 By 1940, 100 00:05:34,620 --> 00:05:37,655 Gibbs owned his own ship building business. 101 00:05:37,655 --> 00:05:39,103 He took an order that would have 102 00:05:39,103 --> 00:05:42,689 a profound influence on him for the rest of his life. 103 00:05:42,689 --> 00:05:46,482 He was tasked with building the nation's Liberty ships. 104 00:05:50,068 --> 00:05:54,689 The Liberty ships provided that vital lifeline of supplies 105 00:05:54,689 --> 00:05:59,103 that kept Britain alive until the US could come in and help 106 00:05:59,103 --> 00:06:02,275 turn the tide of the war. 107 00:06:02,275 --> 00:06:06,172 The Liberty ships were one of the great engineering success stories 108 00:06:06,172 --> 00:06:07,655 of the second world war. 109 00:06:07,655 --> 00:06:12,034 Factories could churn out a 7,000-ton vessel 110 00:06:12,034 --> 00:06:13,931 in just six weeks. 111 00:06:16,586 --> 00:06:18,965 At the close of the second world war, 112 00:06:18,965 --> 00:06:23,068 Gibbs had produced over 5,000 warships. 113 00:06:23,068 --> 00:06:26,275 But his perfect vessel was still on the drawing board. 114 00:06:28,551 --> 00:06:30,758 In 1949, 115 00:06:30,758 --> 00:06:34,586 he shook hands on a deal to bring his dream to life. 116 00:06:36,793 --> 00:06:39,586 Gibbs wanted to go back to building 117 00:06:39,586 --> 00:06:42,275 the beautiful fast passenger liners 118 00:06:42,275 --> 00:06:44,137 that he had built before the war. 119 00:06:44,137 --> 00:06:47,586 And he knew now he might get his chance to build his ultimate ship, 120 00:06:47,586 --> 00:06:49,206 his dream ship. 121 00:06:50,275 --> 00:06:51,896 In 1950, 122 00:06:51,896 --> 00:06:55,758 his company started building the SS United States 123 00:06:55,758 --> 00:06:58,896 to the design he drew decades before, 124 00:06:58,896 --> 00:07:01,034 but with a few changes. 125 00:07:03,379 --> 00:07:07,413 There is no wood anywhere on this ship 126 00:07:07,413 --> 00:07:10,482 because wood can burn, 127 00:07:10,482 --> 00:07:12,965 wood can set on fire, 128 00:07:12,965 --> 00:07:17,103 and my grandfather absolutely forbade that. 129 00:07:17,103 --> 00:07:20,344 This ship was going to be totally safe. 130 00:07:23,241 --> 00:07:24,517 During the wars, 131 00:07:24,517 --> 00:07:27,758 Gibbs had learned that more sailors were lost to fire 132 00:07:27,758 --> 00:07:29,241 than to drowning. 133 00:07:29,241 --> 00:07:31,551 The only wood allowed on the ship 134 00:07:31,551 --> 00:07:33,758 was the cutting board in the kitchen 135 00:07:33,758 --> 00:07:36,413 and the Steinway piano in the ballroom. 136 00:07:39,241 --> 00:07:42,241 He was obsessed with safety. 137 00:07:42,241 --> 00:07:44,965 He liked to say of the SS United States, 138 00:07:44,965 --> 00:07:47,655 "You can't set her on fire. You can't sink her. 139 00:07:47,655 --> 00:07:49,275 You can't catch her." 140 00:07:51,482 --> 00:07:53,758 But the biggest changes to the design 141 00:07:53,758 --> 00:07:55,206 were below deck, 142 00:07:55,206 --> 00:07:57,896 made to appease the ship's benefactor, 143 00:07:57,896 --> 00:07:59,482 the US Government. 144 00:08:12,172 --> 00:08:14,103 The SS United States 145 00:08:14,103 --> 00:08:16,137 was the realization of a dream 146 00:08:16,137 --> 00:08:19,172 for architect William Francis Gibbs. 147 00:08:19,172 --> 00:08:21,206 Passengers on deck could indulge 148 00:08:21,206 --> 00:08:24,379 in the fruits of postwar prosperity. 149 00:08:24,379 --> 00:08:28,655 But hidden below was the beating heart of a warship. 150 00:08:31,551 --> 00:08:33,482 Gibbs' idea was 151 00:08:33,482 --> 00:08:37,724 the government would help him fund this super-fast ship 152 00:08:37,724 --> 00:08:40,310 for use as a luxury passenger liner. 153 00:08:40,310 --> 00:08:42,896 But it would also have a dual use. 154 00:08:42,896 --> 00:08:45,758 In an emergency, in a war, it can be converted 155 00:08:45,758 --> 00:08:48,896 into the fastest troopship ever known. 156 00:08:49,931 --> 00:08:53,724 The ship's powerplant was, you know, 157 00:08:53,724 --> 00:08:55,517 the heart and soul of the vessel. 158 00:08:55,517 --> 00:08:57,793 This ship could go so fast. 159 00:08:57,793 --> 00:09:01,034 The goal was to outrun enemy torpedoes. 160 00:09:01,034 --> 00:09:04,758 And, basically, the ship could be converted 161 00:09:04,758 --> 00:09:07,793 into a troopship in only a matter of days. 162 00:09:09,965 --> 00:09:12,931 Gibbs also changed his design to accommodate 163 00:09:12,931 --> 00:09:16,310 an advanced series of watertight compartments. 164 00:09:16,310 --> 00:09:19,482 Each could be sealed in the event of a breach, 165 00:09:19,482 --> 00:09:23,551 ensuring a single torpedo couldn't sink the vessel. 166 00:09:24,793 --> 00:09:28,137 There were just these elaborate mechanisms, 167 00:09:28,137 --> 00:09:29,137 where from the bridge 168 00:09:29,137 --> 00:09:30,896 and from various points of the ship, 169 00:09:30,896 --> 00:09:34,379 you could control the watertight doors throughout the vessel. 170 00:09:34,379 --> 00:09:36,655 So that if there was ever a breach, 171 00:09:37,206 --> 00:09:38,620 a fire or water, 172 00:09:38,620 --> 00:09:40,655 it could be quickly localized. 173 00:09:46,517 --> 00:09:49,758 On July 3rd, 1952, 174 00:09:49,758 --> 00:09:52,758 the ship set sail on its maiden voyage 175 00:09:52,758 --> 00:09:55,931 and crossing from New York Harbor to Great Britain. 176 00:09:57,241 --> 00:09:59,482 The SS United States was designed 177 00:09:59,482 --> 00:10:03,068 to be the fastest passenger ship ever built. 178 00:10:03,068 --> 00:10:07,862 So he actually tested models of the ship in a wind tunnel 179 00:10:07,862 --> 00:10:12,241 to design a structure that would be as aerodynamic as possible. 180 00:10:12,241 --> 00:10:15,931 This was the first time this has ever been done for a ship. 181 00:10:15,931 --> 00:10:19,517 Gibbs promised his ship would be the fastest on the sea, 182 00:10:19,517 --> 00:10:21,655 putting his reputation on the line. 183 00:10:23,275 --> 00:10:25,275 The maiden voyage of the SS United States 184 00:10:25,275 --> 00:10:27,517 was extraordinary. 185 00:10:27,517 --> 00:10:29,827 So I hear. I was not on board. 186 00:10:29,827 --> 00:10:32,655 Many passengers stayed up all night 187 00:10:32,655 --> 00:10:34,793 the night that the record was broken, 188 00:10:34,793 --> 00:10:37,862 drinking and dancing up and down this deck 189 00:10:37,862 --> 00:10:39,068 where I'm sitting now. 190 00:10:39,068 --> 00:10:41,172 And conga lines, drinking out of the bottle, 191 00:10:41,172 --> 00:10:43,551 I mean, just incredible festivities. 192 00:10:44,482 --> 00:10:46,724 My grandfather was not-- he was on board, 193 00:10:46,724 --> 00:10:48,862 but he was not in the conga line. 194 00:10:48,862 --> 00:10:51,448 He was up on the bridge with the captain 195 00:10:51,448 --> 00:10:53,862 and with some other dignitaries. 196 00:10:53,862 --> 00:10:56,793 And he was so proud. 197 00:10:59,137 --> 00:11:00,241 On July 7th, 198 00:11:00,241 --> 00:11:03,896 the SS United States completed its journey 199 00:11:03,896 --> 00:11:06,793 nearly half a day ahead of schedule. 200 00:11:08,379 --> 00:11:11,689 The ship went from the US to Great Britain 201 00:11:11,689 --> 00:11:14,206 in three days and ten hours. 202 00:11:14,206 --> 00:11:16,172 It shattered previous records, 203 00:11:16,172 --> 00:11:17,344 and amazingly, 204 00:11:17,344 --> 00:11:19,000 that record still stands today. 205 00:11:20,344 --> 00:11:21,448 He told a reporter, 206 00:11:21,448 --> 00:11:24,517 "I've dreamed of this moment for 40 years." 207 00:11:24,517 --> 00:11:27,655 And I think it was the high point of his entire life. 208 00:11:32,965 --> 00:11:37,068 But the age of the cruise liner was coming to an end. 209 00:11:37,068 --> 00:11:39,758 Boeing and the Douglas Aircraft Company 210 00:11:39,758 --> 00:11:43,896 had made transatlantic travel cheap and fast. 211 00:11:43,896 --> 00:11:48,206 The SS United States was decommissioned in 1969, 212 00:11:48,206 --> 00:11:53,413 eventually ending up here in Philadelphia's Pier 82. 213 00:11:59,413 --> 00:12:04,172 Today, the SS United States is the most visible legacy 214 00:12:04,172 --> 00:12:07,793 of a man who transformed American seafaring. 215 00:12:10,000 --> 00:12:12,620 William Francis Gibbs was one of the most 216 00:12:12,620 --> 00:12:15,103 important engineers in American history 217 00:12:15,103 --> 00:12:18,620 and, yet, his name is mostly forgotten today. 218 00:12:18,620 --> 00:12:23,206 This ship was Gibbs' dream from a very young age. 219 00:12:23,206 --> 00:12:28,000 And it took him the length of almost an entire career 220 00:12:28,000 --> 00:12:29,310 as a ship builder 221 00:12:29,310 --> 00:12:32,896 before he got a chance to see it come alive. 222 00:12:36,517 --> 00:12:40,344 He was ultimately trying to create the perfect ship. 223 00:12:40,344 --> 00:12:44,931 He used that phrase, "the perfect ship," 224 00:12:44,931 --> 00:12:47,586 a symbol connecting this country 225 00:12:47,586 --> 00:12:49,517 with the rest of the world. 226 00:12:49,517 --> 00:12:52,724 So, yes, I-- I think he accomplished his goal. 227 00:13:00,448 --> 00:13:02,931 30 miles from the Great Lakes, 228 00:13:02,931 --> 00:13:06,448 a former go-to destination was abandoned 229 00:13:06,448 --> 00:13:09,655 when a new law transformed America. 230 00:13:14,551 --> 00:13:16,655 So we're in Northern Michigan, 231 00:13:16,655 --> 00:13:18,172 center of the Great Lakes, 232 00:13:18,172 --> 00:13:20,551 a few miles from the border of Canada, 233 00:13:20,551 --> 00:13:23,793 which means the winters get pretty cold. 234 00:13:25,896 --> 00:13:29,413 There's a network of roads and various buildings. 235 00:13:29,413 --> 00:13:31,758 But they're in some state of decay. 236 00:13:34,103 --> 00:13:36,793 Hundreds of buildings lay empty. 237 00:13:36,793 --> 00:13:39,103 One is larger than the rest. 238 00:13:41,758 --> 00:13:44,620 One of the buildings is much larger than all the others. 239 00:13:44,620 --> 00:13:48,068 It's painted this brilliant green color 240 00:13:48,068 --> 00:13:50,034 and it's sitting beside the lake, 241 00:13:50,034 --> 00:13:53,172 which is now frozen. 242 00:13:53,172 --> 00:13:55,517 Vestiges of small-town America 243 00:13:55,517 --> 00:13:57,827 mark where people used to gather. 244 00:13:59,206 --> 00:14:00,758 Elsewhere, there's a small shop 245 00:14:00,758 --> 00:14:03,172 that clearly closed some time ago. 246 00:14:03,172 --> 00:14:05,896 Perhaps it was one of the last businesses left standing. 247 00:14:07,896 --> 00:14:11,896 These buildings are what's left of a thriving community 248 00:14:11,896 --> 00:14:14,896 that sought peace and prosperity. 249 00:14:14,896 --> 00:14:16,655 But six decades ago, 250 00:14:16,655 --> 00:14:19,241 a turning point in American history 251 00:14:19,241 --> 00:14:21,000 drove the people away. 252 00:14:24,862 --> 00:14:28,655 This land was once home to hundreds of people. 253 00:14:28,655 --> 00:14:32,620 Blair Evans is part of a small community that remains. 254 00:14:36,206 --> 00:14:38,620 We moved back here two years ago 255 00:14:38,620 --> 00:14:40,448 and have been here full-time since. 256 00:14:40,448 --> 00:14:43,068 But I've been involved in the community a lot for, 257 00:14:43,068 --> 00:14:44,413 you know, my entire life. 258 00:14:46,068 --> 00:14:47,551 Decades ago, 259 00:14:47,551 --> 00:14:51,827 thousands of people would make the journey to Northern Michigan. 260 00:14:51,827 --> 00:14:55,862 Most were drawn to one wooden building by the roadside. 261 00:14:58,344 --> 00:15:02,172 This was a major hub of activity. 262 00:15:02,172 --> 00:15:03,896 Day and night, 263 00:15:03,896 --> 00:15:06,241 this area was just extraordinarily active. 264 00:15:07,724 --> 00:15:10,655 This is the Flamingo Club, 265 00:15:10,655 --> 00:15:15,068 a music hall for some of the biggest stars of the 1950s. 266 00:15:15,068 --> 00:15:17,517 The Four Tops, Sam Cooke 267 00:15:17,517 --> 00:15:19,689 and Sammy Davis Jr, 268 00:15:20,793 --> 00:15:24,931 they all came to perform at Idlewild. 269 00:15:24,931 --> 00:15:28,137 What Idlewild is is definitely a multifaceted question. 270 00:15:28,137 --> 00:15:32,068 And, so, what Idlewild is, in the minds of people 271 00:15:32,068 --> 00:15:35,379 who are familiar with the institution of Idlewild 272 00:15:35,379 --> 00:15:36,517 and the myth of Idlewild, 273 00:15:36,517 --> 00:15:39,241 is a kind of oasis. 274 00:15:40,758 --> 00:15:42,137 There was hunting, 275 00:15:42,137 --> 00:15:43,413 there was fishing, 276 00:15:43,413 --> 00:15:44,551 there was boating, 277 00:15:44,551 --> 00:15:46,172 there was swimming, 278 00:15:46,172 --> 00:15:47,827 everything that people might wanna do 279 00:15:47,827 --> 00:15:49,620 on an all-American vacation. 280 00:15:51,448 --> 00:15:53,827 Tens of thousands of holiday-makers 281 00:15:53,827 --> 00:15:57,000 flocked to this country resort in Northern Michigan. 282 00:15:59,344 --> 00:16:02,827 To some, Idlewild went by another name. 283 00:16:02,827 --> 00:16:05,586 They called it Black Eden. 284 00:16:18,379 --> 00:16:20,275 In Michigan's northern woodlands 285 00:16:20,275 --> 00:16:23,172 is a vacation resort like no other. 286 00:16:23,172 --> 00:16:25,413 Blair Evans was just a boy 287 00:16:25,413 --> 00:16:28,689 when famous musicians came to Idlewild. 288 00:16:28,689 --> 00:16:31,931 Actually, there were a couple doors to, uh, kind of peek in, 289 00:16:31,931 --> 00:16:35,068 depending on how knowledgeable you were of the operations. 290 00:16:35,068 --> 00:16:36,758 There was also a door in the back. 291 00:16:36,758 --> 00:16:38,379 Yeah, we had been known to sneak past 292 00:16:38,379 --> 00:16:39,551 the first line of defense 293 00:16:39,551 --> 00:16:41,931 and trying to take a peek and see what folks were doing. 294 00:16:43,620 --> 00:16:47,482 But Idlewild was unique among resorts. 295 00:16:47,482 --> 00:16:49,137 Since the 1930s, 296 00:16:49,137 --> 00:16:52,827 if was one of the few safe havens for Black Americans, 297 00:16:52,827 --> 00:16:55,206 even in the integrated north. 298 00:16:57,655 --> 00:17:00,000 One thing about segregation in the South 299 00:17:00,000 --> 00:17:03,655 is that it was mandated by law. 300 00:17:03,655 --> 00:17:05,689 But in the north, 301 00:17:05,689 --> 00:17:09,310 you had separation by custom, 302 00:17:09,310 --> 00:17:10,965 by practice. 303 00:17:10,965 --> 00:17:12,413 And so in the north, 304 00:17:12,413 --> 00:17:14,689 Blacks and whites, for example, 305 00:17:14,689 --> 00:17:17,310 would live in largely separate neighborhoods. 306 00:17:17,310 --> 00:17:19,551 The children would go to separate schools. 307 00:17:19,551 --> 00:17:21,172 What happened in reality 308 00:17:21,172 --> 00:17:23,379 was that separate was rarely equal. 309 00:17:26,103 --> 00:17:28,965 When Black Americans faced racism, 310 00:17:28,965 --> 00:17:35,206 some entrepreneurs saw an opportunity to make money. 311 00:17:35,206 --> 00:17:39,172 Idlewild was actually started by four white entrepreneurs. 312 00:17:39,172 --> 00:17:43,551 They possibly had a moral purpose behind their enterprise, 313 00:17:43,551 --> 00:17:47,241 but they also realized the potential to tap into the Black dollar. 314 00:17:48,689 --> 00:17:53,413 Idlewild was probably the most popular vacation destination 315 00:17:53,413 --> 00:17:55,103 for African-American families. 316 00:17:58,413 --> 00:18:02,827 It is said that there would be 25,000 people here on a weekend, 317 00:18:02,827 --> 00:18:06,896 which is just an absurd number of folks. 318 00:18:06,896 --> 00:18:09,000 People from Chicago, Indianapolis, 319 00:18:09,000 --> 00:18:11,137 Detroit, all those cities around, 320 00:18:11,137 --> 00:18:13,137 would really come into the area. 321 00:18:13,137 --> 00:18:18,275 So it was really huge during that time period. 322 00:18:18,275 --> 00:18:20,413 I always wanted to go to Idlewild 323 00:18:20,413 --> 00:18:22,965 to see what it looked like as a vacation spot, 324 00:18:22,965 --> 00:18:24,448 as a resort, as a town. 325 00:18:24,448 --> 00:18:28,448 I just wanted to see what the community looked and felt like. 326 00:18:32,586 --> 00:18:33,827 But for some, 327 00:18:33,827 --> 00:18:36,862 Idlewild was more than a summer retreat. 328 00:18:36,862 --> 00:18:40,586 It became a place for Black business to thrive. 329 00:18:40,586 --> 00:18:43,517 Herman and Lela Wilson were some of the first settlers. 330 00:18:47,862 --> 00:18:49,620 They lived right across the street. 331 00:18:49,620 --> 00:18:52,068 And that small garage you can see, right behind it, 332 00:18:52,068 --> 00:18:54,068 is actually where their grocery store started. 333 00:18:55,068 --> 00:18:57,827 The Wilsons sold holiday homes 334 00:18:57,827 --> 00:19:00,793 and built the store to provide for the residents. 335 00:19:02,103 --> 00:19:04,965 They started a small setup 336 00:19:04,965 --> 00:19:08,379 in the little garage attached to their house 337 00:19:08,379 --> 00:19:10,413 and really discovered that they were the need. 338 00:19:10,413 --> 00:19:11,862 I mean, as far as groceries were concerned, 339 00:19:11,862 --> 00:19:13,827 you could get pretty much everything you needed here. 340 00:19:16,448 --> 00:19:19,310 But now, businesses like Wilson's 341 00:19:19,310 --> 00:19:21,965 and the Flamingo Club are closed. 342 00:19:21,965 --> 00:19:25,103 Rows of holiday homes are empty. 343 00:19:25,103 --> 00:19:29,137 Guest numbers plummeted in the summer of 1964. 344 00:19:30,931 --> 00:19:33,034 The Civil Rights Act of 1964 345 00:19:33,034 --> 00:19:35,344 was a high point of the Civil Rights movement 346 00:19:35,344 --> 00:19:38,965 and it removed key barriers that African Americans faced. 347 00:19:38,965 --> 00:19:43,344 So it meant greater mobility, access and opportunity. 348 00:19:45,241 --> 00:19:49,379 What that does is it sets the table for Black folk 349 00:19:49,379 --> 00:19:54,482 no longer wanting to just live in a Black community. 350 00:19:54,482 --> 00:19:57,448 Now people were like, "No, we no longer need the safe haven 351 00:19:57,448 --> 00:19:59,034 that this place once provided. 352 00:19:59,034 --> 00:20:02,172 We feel empowered and embolden 353 00:20:02,172 --> 00:20:06,965 to go to some of these white places now. 354 00:20:06,965 --> 00:20:09,655 Black Americans flocked to vacation spots 355 00:20:09,655 --> 00:20:12,241 all across the United States. 356 00:20:12,241 --> 00:20:15,655 Idlewild's unique selling point had gone. 357 00:20:17,931 --> 00:20:20,137 Everybody went and explored everything, 358 00:20:20,137 --> 00:20:22,344 and that's perfectly understandable. 359 00:20:22,344 --> 00:20:24,517 And Las Vegas started pulling a lot of acts. 360 00:20:24,517 --> 00:20:26,758 Atlantic City started pulling a lot of acts. 361 00:20:26,758 --> 00:20:27,965 They had access to capital 362 00:20:27,965 --> 00:20:30,206 that entrepreneurs in Idlewild did not have. 363 00:20:31,448 --> 00:20:33,137 By the end of the '60s, 364 00:20:33,137 --> 00:20:37,379 Idlewild had only a fraction of the guests it once had. 365 00:20:37,379 --> 00:20:42,448 The heady days as America's Black Eden were over. 366 00:20:42,448 --> 00:20:46,862 We in America of African descent wear a mask. 367 00:20:46,862 --> 00:20:48,379 We have two faces. 368 00:20:48,379 --> 00:20:51,000 We have the face for White America that we put forward, 369 00:20:51,000 --> 00:20:52,724 and we the face that we put forward 370 00:20:52,724 --> 00:20:54,862 when we're within our tribe. 371 00:20:54,862 --> 00:20:59,206 So at a place like Idlewild, you were with your tribe. 372 00:20:59,206 --> 00:21:02,482 So you could let down your guard, you could be authentic 373 00:21:02,482 --> 00:21:04,793 and you could have a deep sigh of relief. 374 00:21:12,379 --> 00:21:14,137 For six decades, 375 00:21:14,137 --> 00:21:17,172 people like Blair have kept the resort open, 376 00:21:17,172 --> 00:21:20,241 keeping the flame lit at America's Black Eden. 377 00:21:22,379 --> 00:21:26,689 There really is an amazing depth of self-reliance, 378 00:21:26,689 --> 00:21:28,931 entrepreneurship, self-determination 379 00:21:28,931 --> 00:21:30,344 that really emerged in this place 380 00:21:30,344 --> 00:21:32,689 when it wasn't in other places. 381 00:21:32,689 --> 00:21:36,103 And I think that can point us towards a lot of possibilities for the future, 382 00:21:36,103 --> 00:21:38,034 in addition to understanding the past. 383 00:21:43,827 --> 00:21:45,551 In Marin County, 384 00:21:45,551 --> 00:21:48,310 just north of the Golden Gate Bridge, 385 00:21:48,310 --> 00:21:51,275 is a site that helped usher in a new era 386 00:21:51,275 --> 00:21:54,586 in the way America and the world communicated. 387 00:21:59,448 --> 00:22:01,655 This is such a beautiful part of America 388 00:22:01,655 --> 00:22:03,965 with the most amazing views of the Pacific Ocean. 389 00:22:06,517 --> 00:22:09,137 Lots of people pass through this area, 390 00:22:09,137 --> 00:22:11,655 maybe they're on a hike, they're going surfing, 391 00:22:11,655 --> 00:22:14,517 but they're completely oblivious to the rich history of this site. 392 00:22:16,551 --> 00:22:19,551 One feature of the landscape that is hard to ignore 393 00:22:19,551 --> 00:22:23,103 is a collection of tall thin masts. 394 00:22:23,103 --> 00:22:26,689 But there are other things here that are harder to spot. 395 00:22:26,689 --> 00:22:28,000 Down near the coast, 396 00:22:28,000 --> 00:22:31,586 there's this large abandoned-looking building 397 00:22:31,586 --> 00:22:33,862 hidden amongst the trees. 398 00:22:35,689 --> 00:22:36,862 Once upon a time, 399 00:22:36,862 --> 00:22:39,862 it concealed a revolutionary machine. 400 00:22:39,862 --> 00:22:41,689 In that far building, 401 00:22:41,689 --> 00:22:45,344 it was truly Frankenstein stuff. 402 00:22:45,344 --> 00:22:46,862 High-voltage, sparks, 403 00:22:46,862 --> 00:22:49,655 and it sent an enormous bolt of electricity 404 00:22:49,655 --> 00:22:52,000 through that antenna. 405 00:22:52,000 --> 00:22:55,448 And it was called into action on a momentous day. 406 00:22:57,275 --> 00:23:00,310 One of the most traumatic events in American history 407 00:23:00,310 --> 00:23:02,379 has a direct link to this site. 408 00:23:02,379 --> 00:23:06,241 But it's one that actually gets left out in history lessons. 409 00:23:19,344 --> 00:23:22,896 On the Pacific Coast just north of San Francisco, 410 00:23:22,896 --> 00:23:28,068 two large buildings stand at either end of a vast plot of land. 411 00:23:28,068 --> 00:23:30,862 One is in serious disrepair. 412 00:23:30,862 --> 00:23:35,689 The second one is a gorgeous white art deco-style building. 413 00:23:35,689 --> 00:23:38,172 You can see the wires coming off the masts 414 00:23:38,172 --> 00:23:40,379 and going into the white building. 415 00:23:40,379 --> 00:23:42,137 So it's beginning to become clear 416 00:23:42,137 --> 00:23:45,034 that this is some sort of radio communication site. 417 00:23:47,689 --> 00:23:52,758 Written on one side is "RCA Communications Inc." 418 00:23:52,758 --> 00:23:55,793 The Radio Corporation of America. 419 00:23:55,793 --> 00:24:00,551 They built this communications hub between 1929 and 1931. 420 00:24:01,896 --> 00:24:04,896 Inside, you've got these old machines 421 00:24:04,896 --> 00:24:07,000 that are still working and humming away. 422 00:24:08,482 --> 00:24:11,379 It's kind of this, you know, treasure trove 423 00:24:11,379 --> 00:24:12,758 of old radio tech, 424 00:24:12,758 --> 00:24:15,620 which is really cool. 425 00:24:15,620 --> 00:24:19,586 But the story here begins in the fields to the northeast 426 00:24:19,586 --> 00:24:23,034 with the few remaining pieces of a pioneering structure. 427 00:24:26,103 --> 00:24:28,310 In the early teens of the last century, 428 00:24:28,310 --> 00:24:30,896 nothing that we see behind us existed. 429 00:24:30,896 --> 00:24:32,862 But they decided this was the spot 430 00:24:32,862 --> 00:24:34,965 that they would build their radio station. 431 00:24:36,551 --> 00:24:39,793 Richard Dillman, chief operator of today's station, 432 00:24:39,793 --> 00:24:42,517 knows how to untangle the old from the new. 433 00:24:43,586 --> 00:24:44,758 What we see here 434 00:24:44,758 --> 00:24:47,137 is the base of one of the antenna masts 435 00:24:47,137 --> 00:24:48,793 that were here in this field. 436 00:24:48,793 --> 00:24:51,000 You see how big it was in diameter? 437 00:24:51,000 --> 00:24:52,793 And it was 300 feet tall. 438 00:24:52,793 --> 00:24:56,068 And it was just one of nine of these massive structures. 439 00:24:59,655 --> 00:25:03,344 These giant towers with these concrete foundations 440 00:25:03,344 --> 00:25:05,275 and they're huge and impressive, 441 00:25:05,275 --> 00:25:07,827 but they're just there to support the cable, 442 00:25:07,827 --> 00:25:10,793 which is actually how the messages are transmitted. 443 00:25:12,103 --> 00:25:14,344 The company in charge of the site 444 00:25:14,344 --> 00:25:17,379 was owned by one of the most celebrated scientists 445 00:25:17,379 --> 00:25:20,344 of the late 19th and early 20th centuries, 446 00:25:21,482 --> 00:25:23,586 Guglielmo Marconi. 447 00:25:26,896 --> 00:25:29,827 Marconi was an engineer, inventor and entrepreneur. 448 00:25:29,827 --> 00:25:32,000 And eventual Nobel Prize-winning scientist. 449 00:25:33,034 --> 00:25:35,034 One of his greatest contributions to science 450 00:25:35,034 --> 00:25:37,137 was he discovered how to send and receive Morse code 451 00:25:37,137 --> 00:25:38,310 without wires. 452 00:25:40,206 --> 00:25:42,862 So this wireless technology was revolutionary. 453 00:25:42,862 --> 00:25:44,517 And it paved the way 454 00:25:44,517 --> 00:25:47,310 for all the technology that we see before us now. 455 00:25:47,310 --> 00:25:50,206 The little devices that we now carry with us everywhere, 456 00:25:50,206 --> 00:25:53,000 as a matter, of course, all have their roots 457 00:25:53,000 --> 00:25:56,655 in the technology that was pioneered here at this site. 458 00:25:56,655 --> 00:25:58,620 The original antennas at Bolinas 459 00:25:58,620 --> 00:26:02,034 were erected by Marconi in 1914 460 00:26:02,034 --> 00:26:04,103 with the purpose of sending Morse code messages 461 00:26:04,103 --> 00:26:06,482 wirelessly across the Pacific. 462 00:26:06,482 --> 00:26:09,931 But this site was part of something even bigger, 463 00:26:09,931 --> 00:26:13,275 a global longwave radio network. 464 00:26:13,275 --> 00:26:16,724 The plan was to have several high-powered stations 465 00:26:16,724 --> 00:26:19,172 sort of girdle the world 466 00:26:19,172 --> 00:26:23,241 and basically provide instantaneous communication 467 00:26:23,241 --> 00:26:25,586 from like any point across the globe. 468 00:26:29,206 --> 00:26:32,586 The antennas were just one piece of the puzzle. 469 00:26:32,586 --> 00:26:36,103 It was only when they were hooked up to the building nearer the coast 470 00:26:36,103 --> 00:26:38,448 that their full potential was realized. 471 00:26:40,551 --> 00:26:43,896 This building today is in a sad state of disrepair. 472 00:26:43,896 --> 00:26:45,413 Few people know it's here 473 00:26:45,413 --> 00:26:48,379 and fewer still know what it was for. 474 00:26:48,379 --> 00:26:50,482 But, in fact, it played a significant role 475 00:26:50,482 --> 00:26:53,758 in Marconi's plan for global communications. 476 00:26:56,551 --> 00:26:58,103 This building was the powerhouse 477 00:26:58,103 --> 00:27:01,000 of the transmitting antennae that was outside. 478 00:27:02,793 --> 00:27:04,034 To transmit signals 479 00:27:04,034 --> 00:27:06,827 over the vast distances that Marconi wanted, 480 00:27:06,827 --> 00:27:10,068 a huge amount of energy needed to be generated. 481 00:27:11,758 --> 00:27:13,551 This is the beating heart of 482 00:27:13,551 --> 00:27:16,379 the Marconi transoceanic transmitting system. 483 00:27:16,379 --> 00:27:21,103 We're standing right here where this machinery was located. 484 00:27:21,103 --> 00:27:24,172 And it was enormous, loud, dangerous, 485 00:27:24,172 --> 00:27:26,931 high-voltage equipment. 486 00:27:26,931 --> 00:27:30,137 Once the powerful primary signal had been produced, 487 00:27:30,137 --> 00:27:33,689 it was then tuned before being sent along cables 488 00:27:33,689 --> 00:27:35,344 to the antenna field, 489 00:27:35,344 --> 00:27:37,482 where it would then be broadcast. 490 00:27:39,413 --> 00:27:41,689 One of the main destinations for these communications 491 00:27:41,689 --> 00:27:45,068 was another Marconi station on Hawaii. 492 00:27:45,068 --> 00:27:47,620 Hawaii is a gateway radio communication 493 00:27:47,620 --> 00:27:48,827 to the rest of the world. 494 00:27:48,827 --> 00:27:52,689 So if you get to Hawaii, you can get everywhere else. 495 00:27:52,689 --> 00:27:55,241 But just nine years into the life of 496 00:27:55,241 --> 00:27:58,034 the Bolinas longwave radio station, 497 00:27:58,034 --> 00:28:00,689 Marconi made a scientific breakthrough 498 00:28:00,689 --> 00:28:02,758 that had major consequences. 499 00:28:03,862 --> 00:28:05,172 In 1923, 500 00:28:05,172 --> 00:28:07,482 he developed a shortwave beam system. 501 00:28:07,482 --> 00:28:10,275 This had many advantages over the longwave system. 502 00:28:11,689 --> 00:28:14,517 Shortwave was much more power efficient, 503 00:28:14,517 --> 00:28:16,862 had far higher quality 504 00:28:16,862 --> 00:28:18,827 and could travel much further distances. 505 00:28:20,310 --> 00:28:22,137 The arrival of shortwave technology's 506 00:28:22,137 --> 00:28:24,172 kind of the beginning of the end 507 00:28:24,172 --> 00:28:26,758 for the original transmitting station. 508 00:28:26,758 --> 00:28:29,724 It wasn't set up to take advantage of this new wave 509 00:28:29,724 --> 00:28:30,827 that was coming through. 510 00:28:32,965 --> 00:28:36,103 A newer station further inland was built, 511 00:28:36,103 --> 00:28:38,758 leaving this one overshadowed. 512 00:28:40,275 --> 00:28:43,068 The original transmitting station fell largely into disuse, 513 00:28:43,068 --> 00:28:45,827 but it wasn't completely shut down. 514 00:28:45,827 --> 00:28:48,482 The new technology, the shortwave technology 515 00:28:48,482 --> 00:28:50,862 worked great but it was fickle. 516 00:28:50,862 --> 00:28:52,862 The old technology was solid. 517 00:28:52,862 --> 00:28:54,827 It was there all the time. 518 00:28:54,827 --> 00:28:57,448 It might have been slow and it might have been expensive, 519 00:28:57,448 --> 00:28:58,896 but it always got through. 520 00:29:02,965 --> 00:29:04,862 And in 1941, 521 00:29:04,862 --> 00:29:07,689 the trustworthy Bolinas Transmitting Station 522 00:29:07,689 --> 00:29:12,551 stepped up when America was on the brink of catastrophe. 523 00:29:23,689 --> 00:29:25,689 The Bolinas Transmitting Station 524 00:29:25,689 --> 00:29:28,379 was a hotbed of pioneering radio work 525 00:29:28,379 --> 00:29:30,206 throughout the early 20th century. 526 00:29:31,241 --> 00:29:33,206 And in 1941, 527 00:29:33,206 --> 00:29:35,034 the machines here were called upon 528 00:29:35,034 --> 00:29:38,896 during one of America's most desperate times of need. 529 00:29:38,896 --> 00:29:41,103 In the latter months of 1941, 530 00:29:41,103 --> 00:29:43,034 it became apparent that 531 00:29:43,034 --> 00:29:44,827 there might be a conflict in the Pacific 532 00:29:44,827 --> 00:29:48,206 between America and the Empire of Japan. 533 00:29:49,517 --> 00:29:53,965 On December 7th, at 12:48 p.m. in Washington, 534 00:29:53,965 --> 00:29:56,448 General Marshall ordered the following message 535 00:29:56,448 --> 00:29:58,586 to be sent to Hawaii immediately. 536 00:30:16,482 --> 00:30:19,310 Marshall intended to send the message via the Army radio 537 00:30:19,310 --> 00:30:20,965 but the shortwave transmission failed 538 00:30:20,965 --> 00:30:23,482 due to atmospheric conditions. 539 00:30:23,482 --> 00:30:26,586 The Army radio system was not up to the job. 540 00:30:26,586 --> 00:30:29,103 But they knew that this antique technology 541 00:30:29,103 --> 00:30:30,896 would get the message across. 542 00:30:30,896 --> 00:30:32,827 And that's how the message was sent, 543 00:30:32,827 --> 00:30:35,931 through this building to Hawaii. 544 00:30:35,931 --> 00:30:39,551 They were in urgent need of a powerful longwave transmitter 545 00:30:39,551 --> 00:30:42,000 and Bolinas stepped in to save the day. 546 00:30:44,034 --> 00:30:49,068 The message arrived at 7:33 a.m., Honolulu time. 547 00:30:49,068 --> 00:30:51,931 The attack began 22 minutes later. 548 00:30:52,689 --> 00:30:54,137 But for some reason, 549 00:30:54,137 --> 00:30:56,344 the message wasn't flagged as urgent 550 00:30:56,344 --> 00:30:58,172 and wasn't decoded and delivered 551 00:30:58,172 --> 00:31:03,068 to the Pacific Fleet HQ for another seven hours. 552 00:31:03,068 --> 00:31:07,068 So it arrived on the deaths of Admiral Kimmel and General Short 553 00:31:07,068 --> 00:31:10,379 as the Japanese planes were retreating towards their carriers. 554 00:31:10,379 --> 00:31:13,034 And they did not get the message in time. 555 00:31:13,034 --> 00:31:15,586 There's a great unanswered mystery. 556 00:31:15,586 --> 00:31:17,931 The priority stamp was not put on that message. 557 00:31:22,000 --> 00:31:25,068 More than 2,400 Americans died in the attack 558 00:31:25,068 --> 00:31:28,103 and another 1,000 people were wounded. 559 00:31:28,103 --> 00:31:30,275 But how much difference it would have made 560 00:31:30,275 --> 00:31:33,310 if the message was read earlier is questionable. 561 00:31:35,275 --> 00:31:38,965 Admiral Kimmel and General Short were under very strict orders 562 00:31:38,965 --> 00:31:41,517 about what they could do in the way of preparation 563 00:31:41,517 --> 00:31:44,689 to avoid the appearance of a panic on the island. 564 00:31:44,689 --> 00:31:46,758 So how much of a change it would have made, 565 00:31:46,758 --> 00:31:48,137 that's open to debate. 566 00:31:50,724 --> 00:31:53,379 In the decades following World War II, 567 00:31:53,379 --> 00:31:56,448 both building were refitted with newer transmitters 568 00:31:56,448 --> 00:32:00,413 before finally ceasing operations in the 1970s. 569 00:32:07,034 --> 00:32:10,517 The Bolinas site sat empty and neglected for years 570 00:32:10,517 --> 00:32:13,379 until a group of radio enthusiasts began 571 00:32:13,379 --> 00:32:17,586 breathing new life into the station in 1999. 572 00:32:17,586 --> 00:32:20,103 And it remains operational today. 573 00:32:21,482 --> 00:32:24,172 It's a ship-to-shore communication station now 574 00:32:24,172 --> 00:32:27,241 and we're operating this station just as it always has. 575 00:32:27,241 --> 00:32:30,931 Tradition is enormously important to us. 576 00:32:30,931 --> 00:32:32,793 The original transmitting building 577 00:32:32,793 --> 00:32:35,931 is now in the process of being restored 578 00:32:35,931 --> 00:32:41,275 so more people can appreciate its little-known World War II story. 579 00:32:42,793 --> 00:32:44,793 That building is the locus 580 00:32:44,793 --> 00:32:48,724 of a very important element in communications history, 581 00:32:48,724 --> 00:32:49,931 political history 582 00:32:49,931 --> 00:32:52,689 and military history of the United States of America. 583 00:33:01,413 --> 00:33:03,103 In the prairie state, 584 00:33:03,103 --> 00:33:07,413 near the Mississippi River is an ancient wonder 585 00:33:07,413 --> 00:33:09,517 hidden in plain sight. 586 00:33:15,137 --> 00:33:17,586 We're just outside St. Louis 587 00:33:17,586 --> 00:33:20,000 and it's calm, it's quiet, 588 00:33:20,000 --> 00:33:21,482 it feels natural, 589 00:33:21,482 --> 00:33:23,758 but, in reality, it's not natural at all. 590 00:33:26,000 --> 00:33:27,620 Across this landscape, 591 00:33:27,620 --> 00:33:29,724 mounds erupt from the ground. 592 00:33:30,862 --> 00:33:33,068 When you start to look around 593 00:33:33,068 --> 00:33:35,793 and see the sheer number of these mounds, 594 00:33:35,793 --> 00:33:37,620 but also the shape, 595 00:33:37,620 --> 00:33:40,517 it becomes clear that these were made by humans. 596 00:33:42,000 --> 00:33:44,137 You get the sense that each one is hiding 597 00:33:44,137 --> 00:33:47,137 some kind of secret about the site. 598 00:33:47,137 --> 00:33:49,862 And that must mean that the biggest mound of them all 599 00:33:49,862 --> 00:33:52,310 must hold the greatest secret of all. 600 00:33:53,965 --> 00:33:54,862 Well, ahead of us, 601 00:33:54,862 --> 00:33:57,413 we can see a large earthing structure 602 00:33:57,413 --> 00:34:00,068 that was built by the American Indians here. 603 00:34:00,068 --> 00:34:01,931 And it's the center of the site. 604 00:34:03,172 --> 00:34:06,206 Dating back over 1,000 years, 605 00:34:06,206 --> 00:34:10,000 this was once the focal point of an ancient civilization. 606 00:34:11,586 --> 00:34:17,931 It was the largest prehistoric American Indian settlement north of Mexico. 607 00:34:17,931 --> 00:34:19,896 But despite its significance, 608 00:34:19,896 --> 00:34:22,448 many have never heard of this place. 609 00:34:23,965 --> 00:34:25,551 There is a huge road 610 00:34:25,551 --> 00:34:28,000 that runs right through the center of the site. 611 00:34:29,206 --> 00:34:30,758 If somebody was driving down this road, 612 00:34:30,758 --> 00:34:32,482 they probably wouldn't have any idea 613 00:34:32,482 --> 00:34:33,482 that they were driving through 614 00:34:33,482 --> 00:34:35,413 one of the most important sites in America. 615 00:34:41,724 --> 00:34:44,034 Known as Monks Mound, 616 00:34:44,034 --> 00:34:47,586 this vast man-made structure dominates the site. 617 00:34:49,586 --> 00:34:50,758 Where we're standing is 618 00:34:50,758 --> 00:34:53,413 the largest prehistoric earthwork in the Americas. 619 00:34:53,413 --> 00:34:54,965 It's the largest holy earthing mound 620 00:34:54,965 --> 00:34:58,000 built by ancient people in the Western Hemisphere. 621 00:34:59,172 --> 00:35:01,620 Bill Iseminger spent 50 years 622 00:35:01,620 --> 00:35:04,689 as the site's archaeologist and curator. 623 00:35:04,689 --> 00:35:07,620 The base of it covers over 14 acres 624 00:35:07,620 --> 00:35:09,448 and it stands 100 feet high, 625 00:35:09,448 --> 00:35:11,482 has several different terraces. 626 00:35:11,482 --> 00:35:13,103 We're standing on the first terrace. 627 00:35:13,103 --> 00:35:15,241 So there's two levels up on top 628 00:35:15,241 --> 00:35:18,000 and a smaller terrace off on the west side. 629 00:35:21,413 --> 00:35:24,931 We look at our cities, including nearby St. Louis, 630 00:35:24,931 --> 00:35:27,137 and we see tall buildings. 631 00:35:27,137 --> 00:35:31,137 But, incredibly, this human-made structure 632 00:35:31,137 --> 00:35:33,965 was the tallest structure in the United States 633 00:35:33,965 --> 00:35:36,379 into the mid-19th century. 634 00:35:39,172 --> 00:35:43,655 This lower terrace would've held a number of structures. 635 00:35:43,655 --> 00:35:47,206 But a large building atop the mound was the focal point. 636 00:35:48,965 --> 00:35:50,655 We found evidence of a huge building. 637 00:35:50,655 --> 00:35:53,931 It was over 100 feet long, almost 50 feet wide 638 00:35:53,931 --> 00:35:57,103 and maybe 30-40 feet tall, originally. 639 00:35:57,103 --> 00:35:58,896 It probably had multiple functions. 640 00:35:58,896 --> 00:36:02,827 But this was the seat of religious and political power and authority. 641 00:36:04,931 --> 00:36:08,068 Built by a people known as the Mississippians, 642 00:36:08,068 --> 00:36:11,724 this great mound was the heart of an ancient city, 643 00:36:11,724 --> 00:36:14,172 Cahokia. 644 00:36:14,172 --> 00:36:18,827 This culture existed largely between 800 and 1,500 AD. 645 00:36:18,827 --> 00:36:21,241 But it's really 1,000 years ago 646 00:36:21,241 --> 00:36:24,551 when the peak of this site actually was. 647 00:36:24,551 --> 00:36:27,310 But while this may have been the seat of power, 648 00:36:27,310 --> 00:36:29,172 archaeological finds elsewhere 649 00:36:29,172 --> 00:36:32,000 reveal another side to this civilization. 650 00:36:35,862 --> 00:36:39,034 The mounds weren't all necessarily meant to be built upon. 651 00:36:39,034 --> 00:36:40,862 Some of them hide a darker secret. 652 00:36:55,931 --> 00:37:01,517 The main site of Cahokia stretched across roughly 6 square miles. 653 00:37:01,517 --> 00:37:07,655 Today, 80 of the original 120 mounds remain. 654 00:37:07,655 --> 00:37:10,862 It's important to understand that there were no domesticated animals. 655 00:37:10,862 --> 00:37:13,965 So everything from the digging to carrying the soil 656 00:37:13,965 --> 00:37:15,827 to dropping it in different sites, 657 00:37:15,827 --> 00:37:18,241 this was all done by people. 658 00:37:23,103 --> 00:37:24,862 We've got a variety of artifacts 659 00:37:24,862 --> 00:37:28,000 that are representative of Mississippian culture. 660 00:37:28,000 --> 00:37:30,689 Um, one of the more notable ones is 661 00:37:30,689 --> 00:37:32,655 this item we call a hoe. 662 00:37:33,965 --> 00:37:35,379 Well, this is what they use to dig the dirt 663 00:37:35,379 --> 00:37:36,724 to build these mounds. 664 00:37:39,206 --> 00:37:40,827 For the last century, 665 00:37:40,827 --> 00:37:43,413 excavations have been undertaken, 666 00:37:43,413 --> 00:37:46,482 and slowly, they've revealed a picture 667 00:37:46,482 --> 00:37:50,620 of this sophisticated hierarchical society. 668 00:37:50,620 --> 00:37:54,172 So there's clues in everything we find, 669 00:37:54,172 --> 00:37:55,724 even the soil itself. 670 00:37:55,724 --> 00:37:59,379 The pollen grains in the soil will tell us something about the vegetation 671 00:37:59,379 --> 00:38:01,551 and the kinds of plants that were around and growing, 672 00:38:01,551 --> 00:38:03,655 the kinds of food they were eating. 673 00:38:03,655 --> 00:38:07,137 And in garbage pits, we find a lot of the animal bone. 674 00:38:07,137 --> 00:38:10,172 So we know that they were doing a lot of fishing. 675 00:38:12,206 --> 00:38:14,724 Everything we find give us a little bit of more insights 676 00:38:14,724 --> 00:38:17,517 into what daily life was like here at Cahokia. 677 00:38:19,103 --> 00:38:23,137 As the site grew, so too did the population. 678 00:38:23,137 --> 00:38:25,413 From around 1050 AD, 679 00:38:25,413 --> 00:38:28,241 it went from just a couple of thousand inhabitants 680 00:38:28,241 --> 00:38:32,931 to somewhere between 10 and 20,000 half a century later. 681 00:38:34,689 --> 00:38:37,448 We're standing in the grand plaza right now 682 00:38:37,448 --> 00:38:39,482 and we're at the southern end of it. 683 00:38:39,482 --> 00:38:41,655 It covers almost 40 acres 684 00:38:41,655 --> 00:38:43,896 and it would be used as a public gathering place. 685 00:38:43,896 --> 00:38:46,103 So for ceremonies and rituals and games 686 00:38:46,103 --> 00:38:48,862 and markets and other kinds of public activities. 687 00:38:48,862 --> 00:38:51,344 At around 1,100 AD, 688 00:38:51,344 --> 00:38:53,206 Cahokia would have been larger than London 689 00:38:53,206 --> 00:38:54,551 and maybe even Paris. 690 00:38:54,551 --> 00:38:56,206 You know, people don't often realize that we had 691 00:38:56,206 --> 00:38:58,793 something that big here in America. 692 00:39:00,586 --> 00:39:04,482 But while this city radiated power and authority, 693 00:39:04,482 --> 00:39:07,344 by no means was it free from troubles. 694 00:39:08,965 --> 00:39:11,137 We know from the digs around here 695 00:39:11,137 --> 00:39:14,172 that there actually was a fence, so to speak, 696 00:39:14,172 --> 00:39:16,413 that was about 2 miles in circumference 697 00:39:16,413 --> 00:39:19,310 that surrounded the key central part of the city. 698 00:39:20,655 --> 00:39:23,551 It also indicates that warfare and conflict 699 00:39:23,551 --> 00:39:27,137 was a common part of Mississippian culture by this time. 700 00:39:27,137 --> 00:39:28,551 And we see not just Cahokia, 701 00:39:28,551 --> 00:39:31,689 but a lot of other Mississippian sites are being fortified as well. 702 00:39:33,310 --> 00:39:35,413 Yet, while warring neighbors may have been 703 00:39:35,413 --> 00:39:38,275 the greatest threat to the city's inhabitants 704 00:39:38,275 --> 00:39:40,206 before the walls were built, 705 00:39:40,206 --> 00:39:43,206 evidence found at the site points to the fact that, 706 00:39:43,206 --> 00:39:46,344 for some, the dangers were closer to home. 707 00:39:48,413 --> 00:39:51,448 There is suggestion that perhaps they practiced 708 00:39:51,448 --> 00:39:52,758 human sacrifices, 709 00:39:52,758 --> 00:39:54,448 because underneath some of the mounds 710 00:39:54,448 --> 00:39:58,206 have been found victims of appalling injuries. 711 00:40:00,000 --> 00:40:03,172 In the site named Mound 72, 712 00:40:03,172 --> 00:40:08,068 a 1967 excavation revealed a possible burial of a leader 713 00:40:08,068 --> 00:40:11,241 and the remains of numerous individuals 714 00:40:11,241 --> 00:40:13,206 likely from the nearby area. 715 00:40:16,655 --> 00:40:19,655 There was one pit that had 53 women in it, 716 00:40:19,655 --> 00:40:22,068 all about 15 to 25 years old 717 00:40:22,068 --> 00:40:24,413 and apparently have been sacrificed. 718 00:40:24,413 --> 00:40:26,206 Next to them were four men 719 00:40:26,206 --> 00:40:28,517 that had their heads and their hands cut off 720 00:40:28,517 --> 00:40:30,103 apparently in some ritual. 721 00:40:31,482 --> 00:40:34,655 It's really not been found at other places, 722 00:40:34,655 --> 00:40:35,931 you know, throughout the Midwest 723 00:40:35,931 --> 00:40:38,137 with that kind of burial treatment-- 724 00:40:38,137 --> 00:40:40,413 the mess, the sacrifices and everything. 725 00:40:40,413 --> 00:40:42,206 So, something different was going on then. 726 00:40:42,206 --> 00:40:46,206 But that's not typical of most Mississippian places. 727 00:40:48,620 --> 00:40:51,586 Whatever these mass burials signified, 728 00:40:51,586 --> 00:40:54,275 the greatest mystery remains. 729 00:40:54,275 --> 00:41:00,827 Why did the population begin to disappear from around 1,200 AD? 730 00:41:00,827 --> 00:41:02,413 There could have been a number of things 731 00:41:02,413 --> 00:41:04,344 that contributed to its decline. 732 00:41:04,344 --> 00:41:06,517 Perhaps political unrest, 733 00:41:06,517 --> 00:41:08,793 drought, famine, disease. 734 00:41:12,482 --> 00:41:13,965 The answers are out there. 735 00:41:13,965 --> 00:41:16,931 But with archaeology, it's a long process. 736 00:41:16,931 --> 00:41:18,965 The answers are literally in the ground. 737 00:41:18,965 --> 00:41:21,000 They're there, but they must be discovered. 738 00:41:30,000 --> 00:41:33,551 While many questions about Cahokia remain, 739 00:41:33,551 --> 00:41:37,689 the site still offers up much to learn from. 740 00:41:37,689 --> 00:41:39,241 Looking at lost cities 741 00:41:39,241 --> 00:41:41,103 and declined civilizations like this 742 00:41:41,103 --> 00:41:44,620 is powerful and resonant in the present 743 00:41:44,620 --> 00:41:47,620 because it reminds us of the fragility 744 00:41:47,620 --> 00:41:50,034 and vulnerability of our own cities, 745 00:41:50,034 --> 00:41:52,655 our own settlements in the present day. 746 00:41:52,655 --> 00:41:54,655 And perhaps that can provoke us 747 00:41:54,655 --> 00:41:57,931 to take a bit more care with our environment 748 00:41:57,931 --> 00:42:00,206 and safeguarding the future. 59613

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