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These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:02,137 --> 00:00:05,068 Abandoned structures hold the secrets of America's past. 2 00:00:06,689 --> 00:00:10,482 An imposing construction reveals a little-known chapter 3 00:00:10,482 --> 00:00:13,241 in an era-defining story. 4 00:00:22,206 --> 00:00:28,344 A frozen landscape shows how wars abroad shaped the homeland. 5 00:00:28,344 --> 00:00:30,724 When they set off all the powder from the bombs, 6 00:00:30,724 --> 00:00:32,137 you'd stand outside the house, 7 00:00:32,137 --> 00:00:33,655 and it would just shake the earth 8 00:00:33,655 --> 00:00:36,689 and the little mushroom clouds would come up. 9 00:00:36,689 --> 00:00:39,758 And an ancient wonder offers a glimpse 10 00:00:39,758 --> 00:00:42,758 into this land's long human story. 11 00:00:42,758 --> 00:00:45,586 We don't really know why they created this place 12 00:00:45,586 --> 00:00:47,310 and then what caused them to leave. 13 00:00:47,310 --> 00:00:49,172 That's the great mystery. 14 00:00:52,862 --> 00:00:57,103 Scattered across the United States are abandoned structures, 15 00:00:58,517 --> 00:01:01,344 forgotten ruins of the past, 16 00:01:01,344 --> 00:01:05,448 monuments to a bygone era. 17 00:01:05,448 --> 00:01:09,551 Each shines a light on the story of this land 18 00:01:09,551 --> 00:01:11,655 and its people. 19 00:01:11,655 --> 00:01:16,172 These are the secrets of hidden America. 20 00:01:24,517 --> 00:01:26,862 Deep in the heartland, 21 00:01:26,862 --> 00:01:30,379 hundreds of miles from the nearest major city, 22 00:01:30,379 --> 00:01:34,758 is an old facility with a new secret. 23 00:01:39,862 --> 00:01:43,034 We're out basically in the middle of nowhere. 24 00:01:43,034 --> 00:01:44,379 The site is enormous. 25 00:01:44,379 --> 00:01:49,413 And we have these different structures dotted around for miles. 26 00:01:49,413 --> 00:01:52,379 The first impression that everybody has when they come here, 27 00:01:52,379 --> 00:01:54,310 hands down across the board, 28 00:01:54,310 --> 00:01:56,241 is simply "wow." 29 00:01:57,793 --> 00:02:01,379 The more you traverse this landscape, 30 00:02:01,379 --> 00:02:06,413 the more you realize how much is here 31 00:02:06,413 --> 00:02:09,517 and how much possibly happened here. 32 00:02:10,896 --> 00:02:14,793 While much of the site fell into disrepair long ago, 33 00:02:14,793 --> 00:02:20,620 the largest section appears almost unchanged. 34 00:02:20,620 --> 00:02:24,241 The scale of the original site was right around the size of Manhattan. 35 00:02:24,241 --> 00:02:26,482 But what you see behind me right here, 36 00:02:26,482 --> 00:02:29,206 this is the most important part of it all. 37 00:02:30,758 --> 00:02:32,448 The design of the bunkers, 38 00:02:32,448 --> 00:02:35,103 the spacing between the bunkers, 39 00:02:35,103 --> 00:02:37,827 tells you all you need to know. 40 00:02:37,827 --> 00:02:42,103 This was a place that was filled with danger. 41 00:02:44,413 --> 00:02:48,241 But with those risks now long gone, 42 00:02:48,241 --> 00:02:50,793 something else is taking root here, 43 00:02:50,793 --> 00:02:54,448 and life is slowly beginning to return. 44 00:02:55,482 --> 00:02:58,068 This facility was abandoned for decades. 45 00:02:58,068 --> 00:02:59,862 But now things are changing. 46 00:02:59,862 --> 00:03:02,448 What these were built for originally 47 00:03:02,448 --> 00:03:05,827 makes it absolutely perfect for what it's becoming today. 48 00:03:12,655 --> 00:03:15,724 In operation for over two decades, 49 00:03:15,724 --> 00:03:19,620 this was once a highly-secure military site, 50 00:03:19,620 --> 00:03:24,862 as Tom Simons recalls from his days growing up on a neighboring ranch. 51 00:03:25,689 --> 00:03:27,000 When we were kids, 52 00:03:27,000 --> 00:03:30,793 we'd hunt rabbits and bobcats over on the west end 53 00:03:30,793 --> 00:03:33,275 and we found a hole under the fence, 54 00:03:33,275 --> 00:03:36,103 and we'd crawl under there and pursue our bobcats, 55 00:03:36,103 --> 00:03:37,724 and the guards would come. 56 00:03:37,724 --> 00:03:39,206 They were in jeeps, 57 00:03:39,206 --> 00:03:41,965 they had like a .50 caliber machine gun mounted on the back. 58 00:03:41,965 --> 00:03:44,103 When you're nine years old, you get pretty scared. 59 00:03:45,931 --> 00:03:48,586 Now a shell of its former self, 60 00:03:48,586 --> 00:03:49,758 at the time, 61 00:03:49,758 --> 00:03:53,586 the armed security was here for a reason. 62 00:03:53,586 --> 00:03:56,827 These buildings, from what I gather from some of my friends, 63 00:03:56,827 --> 00:03:59,655 was small arms storage. 64 00:03:59,655 --> 00:04:02,758 Like weapons, ...50 caliber machine guns, handheld, 65 00:04:02,758 --> 00:04:05,034 I guess ammunition for like ANA aircraft 66 00:04:05,034 --> 00:04:06,862 and different things like that. 67 00:04:08,413 --> 00:04:11,689 The facility, as a whole at some point, 68 00:04:11,689 --> 00:04:15,965 housed bombs, grenades, rockets 69 00:04:16,586 --> 00:04:18,344 and chemical toxins. 70 00:04:20,206 --> 00:04:22,586 There was a truly nasty cocktail 71 00:04:22,586 --> 00:04:24,344 of chemical agents stored 72 00:04:24,344 --> 00:04:28,862 such as VX gas, mustard gas and sarin. 73 00:04:28,862 --> 00:04:31,413 They weren't nice ingredients. 74 00:04:31,413 --> 00:04:35,310 This is the Black Hills Ordnance Depot, 75 00:04:35,310 --> 00:04:42,034 a site established to make sure the United States was equipped for war. 76 00:04:42,034 --> 00:04:45,896 After the attack on Pearl Harbor in December 1941, 77 00:04:45,896 --> 00:04:48,275 America was thrown into the war. 78 00:04:48,275 --> 00:04:50,689 So, all of the sudden, is was no longer about preparation 79 00:04:50,689 --> 00:04:54,137 and more about ramping up production of weapons and munitions. 80 00:04:55,517 --> 00:04:58,241 The purpose of this place was to receive munitions, 81 00:04:58,241 --> 00:04:59,931 store it safely and maintain it 82 00:04:59,931 --> 00:05:01,793 so it was ready when it needed to be sent out. 83 00:05:03,000 --> 00:05:06,931 Construction began in early 1942. 84 00:05:06,931 --> 00:05:09,689 Here stood a vehicle classification area. 85 00:05:11,344 --> 00:05:16,827 Nearby was an airfield, ammunition workshops and packing areas. 86 00:05:16,827 --> 00:05:21,000 Burning grounds for old munitions were located at the edges. 87 00:05:21,000 --> 00:05:24,241 Chemical weapons were in the northwest. 88 00:05:24,241 --> 00:05:28,206 But the largest area was filled with storage bunkers 89 00:05:28,206 --> 00:05:30,965 or "igloos," as they were nicknamed. 90 00:05:30,965 --> 00:05:34,482 In total, 802 were built. 91 00:05:38,103 --> 00:05:40,241 2,200 square foot apiece. 92 00:05:40,241 --> 00:05:43,448 2 to 3-feet thick concrete walls all around 93 00:05:43,448 --> 00:05:45,137 and double rebar 94 00:05:45,137 --> 00:05:47,000 insulated under the earth. 95 00:05:47,000 --> 00:05:49,931 Inside every one of these bunkers 96 00:05:49,931 --> 00:05:53,448 was as many as you could imagine 97 00:05:53,448 --> 00:05:56,275 bombs, ordnance or all kinds, 98 00:05:56,275 --> 00:05:58,413 these things were packed to the gills. 99 00:05:59,448 --> 00:06:02,827 These bunkers were constructed impeccably. 100 00:06:02,827 --> 00:06:04,724 And the worst you'll see out of any of these 101 00:06:04,724 --> 00:06:08,413 after 80 years in existence to this day 102 00:06:08,413 --> 00:06:10,448 is minor cracking. 103 00:06:12,275 --> 00:06:16,068 The first shipments arrived in late 1942, 104 00:06:16,068 --> 00:06:19,172 well before the site was fully completed. 105 00:06:19,172 --> 00:06:21,448 But with war raging abroad, 106 00:06:21,448 --> 00:06:22,758 across the country, 107 00:06:22,758 --> 00:06:25,896 sites like this were put straight into use. 108 00:06:27,000 --> 00:06:28,931 We had military personnel, 109 00:06:28,931 --> 00:06:31,000 we had the advanced technology. 110 00:06:31,000 --> 00:06:33,448 If you can't back that up with the ordnance 111 00:06:33,448 --> 00:06:36,137 and the weapons to sustain that fight 112 00:06:36,137 --> 00:06:39,275 that they knew would go on for a very long time, 113 00:06:39,275 --> 00:06:42,586 we would have been out of the game a lot earlier. 114 00:06:42,586 --> 00:06:45,103 A permanent labor force had to be brought in 115 00:06:45,103 --> 00:06:47,206 to operate the facility. 116 00:06:47,206 --> 00:06:51,689 And from this, a new community soon grew. 117 00:06:51,689 --> 00:06:53,137 To accommodate the work force, 118 00:06:53,137 --> 00:06:55,931 they essentially had to develop a small town. 119 00:06:55,931 --> 00:06:58,551 There was accommodation for 1,000 people working here, 120 00:06:58,551 --> 00:07:01,241 a hospital, a school, a movie theater, 121 00:07:01,241 --> 00:07:02,655 a bowling alley. 122 00:07:03,689 --> 00:07:05,689 But the call to arms 123 00:07:05,689 --> 00:07:09,482 also brought with it something unexpected. 124 00:07:09,482 --> 00:07:11,000 Across the country, 125 00:07:11,000 --> 00:07:15,413 age-old barriers were beginning to break down. 126 00:07:15,413 --> 00:07:22,241 Reports show that there were 160 Native Americans working in this space. 127 00:07:22,241 --> 00:07:26,103 And there was also a strong presence of the WOWs, 128 00:07:26,103 --> 00:07:30,379 women ordnance workers. 129 00:07:30,379 --> 00:07:32,000 It's a shame that it actually took a war 130 00:07:32,000 --> 00:07:33,896 to bring about that kind of change, 131 00:07:33,896 --> 00:07:36,724 but this was a turning point in that history. 132 00:07:38,379 --> 00:07:42,034 However, social change at sites like this 133 00:07:42,034 --> 00:07:44,172 came at a price. 134 00:07:44,172 --> 00:07:46,965 For those working here over the years, 135 00:07:46,965 --> 00:07:49,482 danger was ever-present. 136 00:07:49,896 --> 00:07:51,413 In 1946, 137 00:07:51,413 --> 00:07:56,517 a forklift driver punctured a 100-pound bomb 138 00:07:56,517 --> 00:07:59,275 filled with white phosphorus. 139 00:07:59,275 --> 00:08:06,241 It then engulfed over 38,000 bombs in flames. 140 00:08:13,206 --> 00:08:15,862 When you're storing these extremely dangerous materials, 141 00:08:15,862 --> 00:08:17,793 accidents can happen. 142 00:08:17,793 --> 00:08:19,724 And that's exactly what happened in 1950 143 00:08:19,724 --> 00:08:23,448 when three people were killed by an explosion. 144 00:08:23,448 --> 00:08:28,034 But while originally designed to contain deadly materials, 145 00:08:28,034 --> 00:08:29,482 more recently, 146 00:08:29,482 --> 00:08:31,931 the bunkers have been offering protection 147 00:08:31,931 --> 00:08:34,344 from the outside, instead. 148 00:08:49,137 --> 00:08:50,379 In 1950, 149 00:08:50,379 --> 00:08:53,655 this site was suddenly thrown into action once more. 150 00:08:55,275 --> 00:09:00,344 The Korean War saw America calling on its stockpiled ordnance, 151 00:09:00,344 --> 00:09:04,827 and this time, Black Hills was ready. 152 00:09:04,827 --> 00:09:07,655 War played a key part 153 00:09:07,655 --> 00:09:11,241 in the United States history of the 20th century. 154 00:09:11,241 --> 00:09:13,655 So often, we think about the battles. 155 00:09:13,655 --> 00:09:16,758 We don't talk about what was happening here 156 00:09:16,758 --> 00:09:18,517 on the home front. 157 00:09:19,655 --> 00:09:20,862 Hidden sites like this 158 00:09:20,862 --> 00:09:24,137 remind us of all the effort that goes into that 159 00:09:24,137 --> 00:09:27,482 in order to be able to fight these wars successfully. 160 00:09:28,862 --> 00:09:31,482 After 25 years of service, 161 00:09:31,482 --> 00:09:33,827 the site would close. 162 00:09:33,827 --> 00:09:37,034 The bunkers were emptied and left to the elements. 163 00:09:38,896 --> 00:09:41,655 But far from remaining silent forever, 164 00:09:41,655 --> 00:09:44,620 something new is drawing people back here. 165 00:09:47,344 --> 00:09:50,793 There's really two reasons why people want to be here. 166 00:09:50,793 --> 00:09:53,931 One is because there's a huge desire to just be off-grid 167 00:09:53,931 --> 00:09:56,586 and living a simpler life, in a way. 168 00:09:56,586 --> 00:09:57,655 The other reason is 169 00:09:57,655 --> 00:10:00,379 this facility is amazing for disaster preparedness 170 00:10:00,379 --> 00:10:01,896 because these bunkers will protect you 171 00:10:01,896 --> 00:10:03,206 from just about anything. 172 00:10:05,586 --> 00:10:09,344 In 2016, a company called Vivos 173 00:10:09,344 --> 00:10:13,000 bought up around 575 of the bunkers. 174 00:10:14,448 --> 00:10:17,206 So this is my bunker. Home away from home. 175 00:10:17,206 --> 00:10:20,068 It started out very modest and very empty and basic, 176 00:10:20,068 --> 00:10:21,275 just like the other ones you've seen. 177 00:10:21,275 --> 00:10:24,448 But this is what can be done inside here. 178 00:10:24,448 --> 00:10:26,482 I have a large solar panel outside. 179 00:10:26,482 --> 00:10:29,827 That's my primary power generation. 180 00:10:29,827 --> 00:10:32,379 We have water purification up front. 181 00:10:32,379 --> 00:10:35,241 And we have, um, you know, casually, 182 00:10:35,241 --> 00:10:39,310 just a nuclear biological chemical filtration unit on the other side. 183 00:10:40,827 --> 00:10:43,172 Back here, we have fuel storage. 184 00:10:43,172 --> 00:10:45,862 And this is your ladder to get up into the attic. 185 00:10:45,862 --> 00:10:49,000 If you were to be locked down in here for a year or even more, 186 00:10:49,000 --> 00:10:51,551 you need all the storage you can get. 187 00:10:51,551 --> 00:10:54,896 Um, back here, we have a nice large gun safe. 188 00:10:57,758 --> 00:10:59,379 For the Black Hills site, 189 00:10:59,379 --> 00:11:02,482 this latest chapter in its story is bringing back 190 00:11:02,482 --> 00:11:06,379 something that was lost a long time ago. 191 00:11:06,379 --> 00:11:12,034 Like many communities that are built up around military investments, 192 00:11:12,034 --> 00:11:16,241 once the facility closes, people move away. 193 00:11:16,241 --> 00:11:21,000 Slowly, this community is beginning to reappear. 194 00:11:21,000 --> 00:11:23,862 It's really all kinds of people. 195 00:11:23,862 --> 00:11:27,068 We have people with very high-tech medical equipment, 196 00:11:27,068 --> 00:11:30,241 entire arsenals of weaponry, 197 00:11:30,241 --> 00:11:33,241 people with basically all the seedlings that you could need 198 00:11:33,241 --> 00:11:36,275 to start and run a greenhouse that could feed a community. 199 00:11:37,724 --> 00:11:39,034 We're full-time residents here. 200 00:11:39,034 --> 00:11:40,310 There are about 30-- 201 00:11:40,310 --> 00:11:43,551 between 30 and 40 other full-time residents here right now. 202 00:11:43,551 --> 00:11:46,896 From our perspective, this is home. 203 00:11:46,896 --> 00:11:50,000 While bunker life isn't for everyone, 204 00:11:50,000 --> 00:11:55,655 these old structures continue to hold their own in the modern world. 205 00:11:55,655 --> 00:11:58,206 I have a good number of friends that I've known for a long time, 206 00:11:58,206 --> 00:12:00,931 and they were curious about what I was doing 207 00:12:00,931 --> 00:12:04,068 until the pandemic. 208 00:12:04,068 --> 00:12:06,344 They are suddenly incredibly interested 209 00:12:06,344 --> 00:12:08,620 in putting themselves in a better position 210 00:12:08,620 --> 00:12:11,275 to where their pantry won't run empty in three days. 211 00:12:11,275 --> 00:12:13,655 If things did go crazy in the world, 212 00:12:13,655 --> 00:12:16,413 if someone straight up declared war on America 213 00:12:16,413 --> 00:12:18,689 or there was enormous civil unrest, 214 00:12:18,689 --> 00:12:20,793 I feel completely safe here. 215 00:12:20,793 --> 00:12:23,448 I can provide for my power and my water. 216 00:12:23,448 --> 00:12:24,793 We're good. 217 00:12:30,655 --> 00:12:34,103 Today, the bunkers and the other parts of the site 218 00:12:34,103 --> 00:12:36,275 help illustrate how the country's past 219 00:12:36,275 --> 00:12:39,482 has left its mark on the land. 220 00:12:39,482 --> 00:12:40,655 In the '40s, 221 00:12:40,655 --> 00:12:42,896 war was totally different than it is today. 222 00:12:42,896 --> 00:12:46,965 And this was a necessary facility back in those years. 223 00:12:48,241 --> 00:12:50,000 In a way, I'm glad it ended, 224 00:12:50,000 --> 00:12:54,000 because we don't need this no more. 225 00:12:54,000 --> 00:12:57,413 And it's sad to see all the buildings falling down. 226 00:12:57,413 --> 00:13:00,551 It's just a part of our history that we can't change. 227 00:13:09,724 --> 00:13:12,793 In the foothills of the Appalachians 228 00:13:12,793 --> 00:13:18,379 is a quiet site that became famous for the wrong reasons. 229 00:13:23,448 --> 00:13:25,172 We're in a rural part of Tennessee, 230 00:13:25,172 --> 00:13:28,551 kind of far away from any place that you would really wanna be 231 00:13:28,551 --> 00:13:31,379 by foot or car. 232 00:13:31,379 --> 00:13:35,413 A winding road cuts through the range, 233 00:13:35,413 --> 00:13:39,275 ending at a walled fortress. 234 00:13:39,275 --> 00:13:41,517 It's built out of a light-colored sandstone. 235 00:13:41,517 --> 00:13:43,068 And with its prenylated top, 236 00:13:43,068 --> 00:13:45,103 it looks rather like a castle. 237 00:13:45,103 --> 00:13:47,000 It's very out of place in the area. 238 00:13:48,758 --> 00:13:53,310 This place is a mishmash of architecture. 239 00:13:53,310 --> 00:13:55,206 Some of it is modern. 240 00:13:55,206 --> 00:13:57,551 There are older structures. 241 00:13:57,551 --> 00:14:01,724 Cleary, it has been built and rebuilt over the years. 242 00:14:03,620 --> 00:14:07,655 But inside are rotting walls and rusted bars 243 00:14:07,655 --> 00:14:10,931 that reveal its true purpose. 244 00:14:10,931 --> 00:14:12,862 It's absolutely depressing. 245 00:14:12,862 --> 00:14:17,103 You know that the prisoners inside this prison 246 00:14:17,103 --> 00:14:19,103 had horrific existences. 247 00:14:20,620 --> 00:14:24,172 This is Brushy Mountain State Penitentiary. 248 00:14:25,758 --> 00:14:30,103 Some of America's most dangerous criminals were locked inside here. 249 00:14:31,827 --> 00:14:34,689 But it was one inmate's crime 250 00:14:34,689 --> 00:14:38,034 that changed the course of American history 251 00:14:38,034 --> 00:14:42,275 and drew the eyes of the world to this place. 252 00:14:55,965 --> 00:15:00,551 Teddy Basler arrived here nearly 40 years ago. 253 00:15:00,551 --> 00:15:04,551 His job, to keep convicted felons under lock and key. 254 00:15:20,862 --> 00:15:23,275 Behind these doors were murderers, 255 00:15:23,275 --> 00:15:25,000 violent criminals 256 00:15:25,000 --> 00:15:26,862 and sex offenders. 257 00:15:26,862 --> 00:15:29,827 Stand here, and every fiber of your being will scream, 258 00:15:29,827 --> 00:15:31,551 "This is the end of the road." 259 00:15:33,275 --> 00:15:35,724 But this high-security facility 260 00:15:35,724 --> 00:15:38,517 started life as a simpler structure. 261 00:15:39,344 --> 00:15:40,793 In the late 1800s, 262 00:15:40,793 --> 00:15:43,206 Brushy Mountain State Penitentiary 263 00:15:43,206 --> 00:15:44,413 was a wooden prison. 264 00:15:46,137 --> 00:15:48,034 But in the 1930s, 265 00:15:48,034 --> 00:15:51,413 authorities decided to put the prisoners to work 266 00:15:51,413 --> 00:15:53,689 to rebuild it 267 00:15:53,689 --> 00:15:58,000 basically ensuring that they would not be able to escape. 268 00:16:00,103 --> 00:16:02,482 Brushy was designed to be a threat. 269 00:16:02,482 --> 00:16:05,068 To be sent here, you'd either been convicted of a heinous crime 270 00:16:05,068 --> 00:16:06,586 or no one else would have you. 271 00:16:09,551 --> 00:16:10,862 For the inmates, 272 00:16:10,862 --> 00:16:14,241 living quarters were small and sparse. 273 00:16:47,931 --> 00:16:50,275 Brushy Mountain State Penitentiary 274 00:16:50,275 --> 00:16:53,379 kept some of America's most notorious felons. 275 00:16:54,000 --> 00:16:56,206 But in March of 1970, 276 00:16:56,206 --> 00:16:59,068 Brushy's most famous inmate arrived, 277 00:17:00,413 --> 00:17:04,137 a man named James Earl Ray. 278 00:17:06,551 --> 00:17:08,275 James Earl Ray was a fugitive 279 00:17:08,275 --> 00:17:09,724 from the Missouri State Prison. 280 00:17:09,724 --> 00:17:11,689 He was a petty criminal. 281 00:17:11,689 --> 00:17:15,379 He's the dregs of American society. 282 00:17:15,379 --> 00:17:19,000 And he played a role in forever changing the landscape of America 283 00:17:19,000 --> 00:17:21,931 by killing Reverend Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr. 284 00:17:24,413 --> 00:17:27,379 On April 4th, 1968, 285 00:17:27,379 --> 00:17:30,551 King was staying at the Lorraine Motel in Memphis. 286 00:17:32,000 --> 00:17:33,586 As he stood on his balcony, 287 00:17:33,586 --> 00:17:35,379 a single bullet struck him. 288 00:17:38,310 --> 00:17:39,896 The world stopped. 289 00:17:41,172 --> 00:17:43,758 Riots took place across the country. 290 00:17:46,172 --> 00:17:48,275 I actually remember the day 291 00:17:48,275 --> 00:17:51,103 and how afraid I was of the National Guard 292 00:17:51,103 --> 00:17:53,896 when they came into my Black community, 293 00:17:53,896 --> 00:17:55,172 as a little boy. 294 00:17:55,172 --> 00:17:58,034 It stayed with me like it happened yesterday. 295 00:18:00,482 --> 00:18:02,896 A manhunt began. 296 00:18:02,896 --> 00:18:05,827 James Earl Ray was the number one suspect. 297 00:18:07,862 --> 00:18:10,448 He was captured in London, England, 298 00:18:10,448 --> 00:18:13,068 and sentenced to 99 years in prison 299 00:18:13,068 --> 00:18:15,551 at Brushy Mountain State Penitentiary. 300 00:18:26,000 --> 00:18:28,206 When we found out he was coming here, 301 00:18:28,206 --> 00:18:30,344 we had staff meetings here all the time. 302 00:18:30,344 --> 00:18:32,379 He was a major escape risk. 303 00:18:35,413 --> 00:18:39,413 On a June evening, seven years into his sentence, 304 00:18:39,413 --> 00:18:41,448 Ray made his move. 305 00:18:43,758 --> 00:18:45,241 That evening, I'm eating supper 306 00:18:45,241 --> 00:18:46,827 and the whistle starts blowing 307 00:18:46,827 --> 00:18:50,206 and then this long-- I think it was seven times. 308 00:18:50,206 --> 00:18:52,724 And I told my wife, I was like, "Oh, hell, Lola. 309 00:18:56,758 --> 00:18:58,758 Oh, my God, honey, this-- it's a bad one. 310 00:18:58,758 --> 00:19:00,000 This is bad. 311 00:19:00,000 --> 00:19:02,206 If that man escapes, 312 00:19:02,206 --> 00:19:03,965 it's real bad." 313 00:19:22,241 --> 00:19:25,482 The inmates squeezed through a gap in the barbed wire, 314 00:19:25,482 --> 00:19:27,620 just 18 inches wide. 315 00:19:28,344 --> 00:19:29,482 And with that, 316 00:19:29,482 --> 00:19:33,724 America's highest-profile criminal was on the run. 317 00:19:36,068 --> 00:19:38,413 Any escapee is dangerous. 318 00:19:38,413 --> 00:19:39,862 He's extremely dangerous. 319 00:19:39,862 --> 00:19:42,586 He'll hurt anybody that gets in front of him. 320 00:19:55,758 --> 00:20:00,034 On June 10th, 1977, the nation's attention 321 00:20:00,034 --> 00:20:02,862 was suddenly brought upon this prison, 322 00:20:02,862 --> 00:20:07,275 for the man convicted of killing Martin Luther King had escaped. 323 00:20:08,931 --> 00:20:10,241 We had to call every employee. 324 00:20:10,241 --> 00:20:13,172 Every employee of the prison, we would call in. 325 00:20:13,172 --> 00:20:15,724 The media descended on the space. 326 00:20:15,724 --> 00:20:17,551 And people all over the country 327 00:20:17,551 --> 00:20:20,000 watched the unfolding of this manhunt. 328 00:20:22,172 --> 00:20:23,827 The sent the FBI in here. 329 00:20:23,827 --> 00:20:26,724 And I know most of the people in the FBI are good people. 330 00:20:26,724 --> 00:20:27,896 But the ones they sent up here, 331 00:20:27,896 --> 00:20:31,551 if they had been hand-picked to be total rear ends, 332 00:20:31,551 --> 00:20:33,620 they-- they got 'em. 333 00:20:33,620 --> 00:20:35,896 They drove around at night in cars 334 00:20:35,896 --> 00:20:38,241 shining lights up in the woods. 335 00:20:38,241 --> 00:20:39,517 But you're not gonna catch him 336 00:20:39,517 --> 00:20:41,862 shining lights up in the trees at night. 337 00:20:43,241 --> 00:20:45,413 While the FBI swept the roads, 338 00:20:45,413 --> 00:20:47,896 Tucker and his colleague, Stawney Lane, 339 00:20:47,896 --> 00:20:50,758 planned an expedition into the woods 340 00:20:50,758 --> 00:20:52,103 with bloodhounds. 341 00:20:54,068 --> 00:20:55,448 We called at night 342 00:20:55,448 --> 00:20:58,068 and he said, "We got a really good track going over here." 343 00:20:58,068 --> 00:21:00,137 Now he said, "I'm gonna tell you something. 344 00:21:00,137 --> 00:21:03,275 If I call you anytime tonight on the radio 345 00:21:03,275 --> 00:21:06,172 and I say the word 'shallow,' 346 00:21:07,034 --> 00:21:08,965 I got him. We're looking at him." 347 00:21:11,137 --> 00:21:14,931 For two days, Brushy's officers and the FBI 348 00:21:14,931 --> 00:21:17,344 raced to find James Earl Ray. 349 00:21:18,413 --> 00:21:19,655 When it come over the radio, 350 00:21:19,655 --> 00:21:22,000 he said, "We've still got a good track going." 351 00:21:22,000 --> 00:21:23,965 He said, "It's hotter than hell." 352 00:21:23,965 --> 00:21:26,379 He said that "over here is a shallow church," 353 00:21:26,379 --> 00:21:29,034 boy, my hair stood up all over me. 354 00:21:29,034 --> 00:21:31,034 He's looking at him. They done got him. 355 00:21:31,034 --> 00:21:33,931 He said "shallow." 356 00:21:33,931 --> 00:21:37,172 The hounds tracked Ray to a spot in the woods. 357 00:21:38,482 --> 00:21:40,758 Later, the dog handlers showed reporters 358 00:21:40,758 --> 00:21:43,793 how he discovered Ray buried in a pile of leaves. 359 00:21:47,000 --> 00:21:48,551 By the end of the fourth day, 360 00:21:48,551 --> 00:21:51,000 all the escapees had been rounded up. 361 00:21:51,000 --> 00:21:53,758 And Ray was heading to solitary. 362 00:22:02,620 --> 00:22:04,896 James Earl Ray was put into D block. 363 00:22:04,896 --> 00:22:08,827 This was the bleakest place that Brushy had to offer. 364 00:22:08,827 --> 00:22:11,517 Those in D block who were put into solitary confinement, 365 00:22:11,517 --> 00:22:14,310 the spent 90% of the time on their own. 366 00:22:14,310 --> 00:22:16,206 Their food was pushed through a gap in the door. 367 00:22:19,137 --> 00:22:21,689 Ray spent six months in here. 368 00:22:21,689 --> 00:22:22,931 A few years later, 369 00:22:22,931 --> 00:22:25,862 he was transferred to another facility. 370 00:22:25,862 --> 00:22:29,103 He died behind bars in 1998. 371 00:22:31,551 --> 00:22:33,896 Brushy kept going, but eventually, 372 00:22:33,896 --> 00:22:37,551 it couldn't keep up with the growing prison population. 373 00:22:37,551 --> 00:22:42,034 In 2009, it was shut down permanently. 374 00:22:49,172 --> 00:22:54,241 While this prison played its role in the aftermath of Martin Luther King's death, 375 00:22:54,241 --> 00:22:58,206 that tragic event had much further-reaching consequences 376 00:22:58,206 --> 00:22:59,655 for American history. 377 00:23:01,655 --> 00:23:03,551 His assassination, 378 00:23:03,551 --> 00:23:07,448 particularly amongst young African Americans 379 00:23:07,448 --> 00:23:09,827 and other civil rights activists, 380 00:23:09,827 --> 00:23:13,000 created doubt about nonviolence 381 00:23:13,000 --> 00:23:17,068 and the hope for a better America. 382 00:23:17,068 --> 00:23:20,172 It changed the face of American history. 383 00:23:20,172 --> 00:23:24,620 Many situations, those riot-torn urban centers, 384 00:23:24,620 --> 00:23:28,862 have never bounced back from the destruction of 1968. 385 00:23:29,482 --> 00:23:30,965 So, in essence, 386 00:23:30,965 --> 00:23:33,689 the killing of Reverend Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr. 387 00:23:33,689 --> 00:23:37,758 was a critical moment in, um, 388 00:23:37,758 --> 00:23:41,241 the larger chronicle-ization of American history. 389 00:23:50,068 --> 00:23:52,931 In the lush hills of wine country 390 00:23:52,931 --> 00:23:55,655 is a building whose disastrous end 391 00:23:55,655 --> 00:23:58,896 was shrouded in mystery for decades. 392 00:24:04,758 --> 00:24:07,206 We're in one of the most beautiful parts of America, 393 00:24:07,206 --> 00:24:09,827 just north of San Francisco. 394 00:24:09,827 --> 00:24:12,931 Wineries, golden hilltops, 395 00:24:12,931 --> 00:24:14,551 oak rows, 396 00:24:14,551 --> 00:24:18,655 and we come across this large structure. 397 00:24:20,206 --> 00:24:22,931 This place was clearly something special. 398 00:24:22,931 --> 00:24:25,689 But it isn't immediately apparent what happened here 399 00:24:25,689 --> 00:24:27,379 to leave it in this state. 400 00:24:28,517 --> 00:24:30,620 Found in a tranquil setting, 401 00:24:30,620 --> 00:24:34,000 together, it all reveals something unexpected. 402 00:24:35,482 --> 00:24:40,689 This place tells a story of one of America's most famous writers. 403 00:24:40,689 --> 00:24:45,517 But the ruins show that there was a twist in this tale. 404 00:24:45,517 --> 00:24:46,758 What we're looking at here 405 00:24:46,758 --> 00:24:49,137 is the product of one man's dream. 406 00:24:49,137 --> 00:24:52,931 It all came crashing down in a single night of tragedy. 407 00:25:00,206 --> 00:25:03,310 Today, these remains stand within the boundaries 408 00:25:03,310 --> 00:25:06,275 of a state historic park. 409 00:25:06,275 --> 00:25:09,551 Bern Lefson has been a docent here for 10 years. 410 00:25:10,931 --> 00:25:14,793 This was the home of a very important 411 00:25:14,793 --> 00:25:19,172 famous individual in US history. 412 00:25:19,172 --> 00:25:23,655 This structure was the dream of Jack London, 413 00:25:23,655 --> 00:25:27,413 the most influential writer of his time. 414 00:25:27,413 --> 00:25:31,586 His books were read by people around the world. 415 00:25:34,137 --> 00:25:35,896 Today, Jack London's books 416 00:25:35,896 --> 00:25:38,344 like White Fang Call of the Wild, 417 00:25:38,344 --> 00:25:41,689 they're not held in the highest literary esteem, 418 00:25:41,689 --> 00:25:43,172 but in his day, 419 00:25:43,172 --> 00:25:45,931 Jack London was a superstar. 420 00:25:47,310 --> 00:25:51,034 Costing close to $2 million in today's money, 421 00:25:51,034 --> 00:25:56,310 this was intended to be the home of Jack and his second wife, Charmian. 422 00:25:56,310 --> 00:25:59,172 He named it Wolf House. 423 00:25:59,172 --> 00:26:03,275 Living here would have made you felt like luxury. 424 00:26:04,034 --> 00:26:06,448 But with all of the windows, 425 00:26:06,448 --> 00:26:09,896 one would also feel that you're part of nature, 426 00:26:09,896 --> 00:26:12,482 which was very important to Jack. 427 00:26:14,413 --> 00:26:16,068 In 1911, 428 00:26:16,068 --> 00:26:17,896 the foundations were poured 429 00:26:17,896 --> 00:26:21,551 and they hid a secret. 430 00:26:21,551 --> 00:26:25,862 They were strong enough to carry a 40-story building. 431 00:26:25,862 --> 00:26:29,965 The reason was down to the 1906 San Francisco Earthquake. 432 00:26:31,862 --> 00:26:35,310 It's estimated that between 70 and 80% of the city was destroyed. 433 00:26:37,620 --> 00:26:40,310 London wanted to make sure that his house 434 00:26:40,310 --> 00:26:43,482 would not only be stable in an earthquake 435 00:26:43,482 --> 00:26:45,310 with the massive foundation, 436 00:26:45,310 --> 00:26:49,482 but also, as close to fireproof as possible. 437 00:26:49,482 --> 00:26:52,655 He used volcanic rocks for the walls. 438 00:26:52,655 --> 00:26:55,000 Where he had exposed wood, 439 00:26:55,000 --> 00:26:58,137 he used redwood with the bark still on. 440 00:26:58,137 --> 00:27:02,068 Redwood trees are famously resistant to fire. 441 00:27:03,931 --> 00:27:06,172 So with it engineered to last, 442 00:27:06,172 --> 00:27:09,344 how did it end up like this? 443 00:27:22,758 --> 00:27:25,172 Jack London had intended Wolf House 444 00:27:25,172 --> 00:27:28,482 to be a lasting monument on his grand estate. 445 00:27:29,620 --> 00:27:32,137 What he was trying to establish here 446 00:27:32,137 --> 00:27:35,620 was a far cry from his adventure-fueled formative years. 447 00:27:37,172 --> 00:27:39,931 Jack London grew up poor on the streets, 448 00:27:39,931 --> 00:27:42,896 literally, on the streets of San Francisco. 449 00:27:42,896 --> 00:27:44,965 He worked on seal boats, 450 00:27:44,965 --> 00:27:47,068 sailed as far as Japan, 451 00:27:47,068 --> 00:27:51,379 rode the rails back and forth across the country, 452 00:27:51,379 --> 00:27:53,206 and this was all by the age of 20. 453 00:27:55,068 --> 00:27:56,241 At 21, 454 00:27:56,241 --> 00:27:58,482 he chose to follow the gold rush north 455 00:27:58,482 --> 00:27:59,896 into the Klondike. 456 00:28:01,000 --> 00:28:02,551 He spent about a year up there 457 00:28:02,551 --> 00:28:03,896 meeting all the various characters, 458 00:28:03,896 --> 00:28:06,172 talking to people, taking in the scenery, 459 00:28:06,172 --> 00:28:08,206 and it's out of that experience 460 00:28:08,206 --> 00:28:10,551 that the germ of his writing was really born. 461 00:28:11,862 --> 00:28:15,965 London's novel The Call of the Wild in 1903 462 00:28:15,965 --> 00:28:19,000 was a huge success and it made him rich. 463 00:28:20,413 --> 00:28:22,793 An affair, the breakdown of his marriage 464 00:28:22,793 --> 00:28:25,000 and then a new marriage followed. 465 00:28:25,000 --> 00:28:26,344 By 1905, 466 00:28:26,344 --> 00:28:29,689 the now-famous author was looking to settle down. 467 00:28:33,137 --> 00:28:34,655 So, little known about Jack London, 468 00:28:34,655 --> 00:28:38,689 he was actually very passionate about conserving the soil. 469 00:28:38,689 --> 00:28:40,206 And at that time in California, 470 00:28:40,206 --> 00:28:42,827 farmers were using chemical fertilizers 471 00:28:42,827 --> 00:28:45,620 and just basically farming the soil out 472 00:28:45,620 --> 00:28:47,965 and moving on to another farm. 473 00:28:47,965 --> 00:28:50,965 And his travels around the world showed him 474 00:28:50,965 --> 00:28:55,172 ways to farm in a better more earth-friendly way. 475 00:28:55,172 --> 00:28:57,758 And that is something he wanted to share with the world 476 00:28:57,758 --> 00:28:59,620 through his work here in the land. 477 00:29:01,344 --> 00:29:03,965 The couple bought up small areas of land 478 00:29:03,965 --> 00:29:08,689 to create their new property called Beauty Ranch. 479 00:29:08,689 --> 00:29:10,689 And this parcel here is the one 480 00:29:10,689 --> 00:29:13,655 that allowed them to physically move onto the land 481 00:29:13,655 --> 00:29:17,379 and become residents of their new dream together. 482 00:29:17,379 --> 00:29:20,137 This was really a mark of success for Jack. 483 00:29:20,137 --> 00:29:22,413 This was really the pinnacle of his dream, 484 00:29:22,413 --> 00:29:25,034 was to have a wonderful place in the country 485 00:29:25,034 --> 00:29:27,310 that he could farm with his wife 486 00:29:27,310 --> 00:29:29,413 and be very close to nature. 487 00:29:30,862 --> 00:29:33,241 The small cottage provided lodging, 488 00:29:33,241 --> 00:29:36,965 but Wolf House was intended to be their true home. 489 00:29:37,758 --> 00:29:41,034 However, in August, 1913, 490 00:29:41,034 --> 00:29:43,379 with the house nearing completion, 491 00:29:43,379 --> 00:29:45,206 the unthinkable occurred. 492 00:29:46,379 --> 00:29:49,379 Jack was awakened in the middle of the night 493 00:29:49,379 --> 00:29:52,896 being told that the Wolf House was on fire. 494 00:29:52,896 --> 00:29:54,724 And when he got here, 495 00:29:54,724 --> 00:29:57,862 he noticed the whole roof was engulfed 496 00:29:57,862 --> 00:30:00,586 and he knew there was no saving it. 497 00:30:00,586 --> 00:30:04,241 What's left standing is all that does not burn. 498 00:30:06,034 --> 00:30:07,482 Contained inside, 499 00:30:07,482 --> 00:30:09,827 a fire had burned out of control 500 00:30:09,827 --> 00:30:11,517 before the alarm was raised. 501 00:30:13,482 --> 00:30:16,448 The sad irony is the thick walls 502 00:30:16,448 --> 00:30:18,689 that were designed to keep fire out 503 00:30:18,689 --> 00:30:21,793 did not handle the fire that began within. 504 00:30:23,620 --> 00:30:27,758 For decades, the cause of the fire remained a mystery. 505 00:30:27,758 --> 00:30:29,793 But in 1995, 506 00:30:29,793 --> 00:30:33,103 a forensics team conducted a study of the site. 507 00:30:34,206 --> 00:30:36,034 We are in the dining room 508 00:30:36,034 --> 00:30:41,689 and the fire was determined by scientific methods 509 00:30:41,689 --> 00:30:44,379 to begin right in front of that fireplace. 510 00:30:46,413 --> 00:30:48,206 Rags soaked in linseed oil 511 00:30:48,206 --> 00:30:51,758 had been used to treat the interior wood surfaces. 512 00:30:51,758 --> 00:30:54,724 And it's believed that at the end of the day, 513 00:30:54,724 --> 00:30:58,068 those rags were left in a pile there. 514 00:30:58,068 --> 00:31:02,724 They were able to actually confirm the spontaneous combustion theory. 515 00:31:02,724 --> 00:31:04,413 It was an incredibly hot day 516 00:31:04,413 --> 00:31:07,172 and the sun beaming in the open window 517 00:31:07,172 --> 00:31:09,172 hitting those rags just heated them up 518 00:31:09,172 --> 00:31:12,379 until the point of combustion. 519 00:31:12,379 --> 00:31:15,068 In this case, by the time anyone was aware 520 00:31:15,068 --> 00:31:16,862 the building was on fire, 521 00:31:16,862 --> 00:31:18,655 it was far too late to do anything. 522 00:31:26,241 --> 00:31:31,482 Today, many question Jack London's personal and political views. 523 00:31:31,482 --> 00:31:33,965 What these sites offer, though, is perhaps 524 00:31:33,965 --> 00:31:37,206 a glimpse at another side to the famous author. 525 00:31:38,931 --> 00:31:41,448 London was a fascinating figure 526 00:31:41,448 --> 00:31:44,241 in the history, not just of literature, 527 00:31:44,241 --> 00:31:48,413 but ideas about conservation, 528 00:31:48,413 --> 00:31:51,068 about man's relationship with nature 529 00:31:51,068 --> 00:31:53,103 and still, in some ways, 530 00:31:53,103 --> 00:31:56,000 there's a hint of that lingering around these ruins. 531 00:32:03,310 --> 00:32:05,000 In the Four Corners region, 532 00:32:05,000 --> 00:32:09,655 where Arizona, Utah, Colorado and New Mexico meet, 533 00:32:09,655 --> 00:32:13,068 ancient structures hide an often overlooked part 534 00:32:13,068 --> 00:32:15,172 of this land's story. 535 00:32:19,413 --> 00:32:21,413 We're out in the wilds here. 536 00:32:21,413 --> 00:32:24,724 It's striking and it's desolate. 537 00:32:24,724 --> 00:32:29,034 This feels like such a quiet and distant place today. 538 00:32:29,034 --> 00:32:31,758 But you can see from all the remains dotted about 539 00:32:31,758 --> 00:32:34,172 that, years ago, this was anything but. 540 00:32:36,931 --> 00:32:39,551 Aged forms cover these grounds. 541 00:32:39,551 --> 00:32:43,103 But one stands apart. 542 00:32:43,103 --> 00:32:44,965 It's the kind of settlement we associate 543 00:32:44,965 --> 00:32:48,551 with Mesoamerican Native architecture, 544 00:32:48,551 --> 00:32:50,724 the Mayans or the Aztecs, 545 00:32:50,724 --> 00:32:54,034 or South America, like the Incas. 546 00:32:54,034 --> 00:32:57,344 This was once a thriving and populace area. 547 00:32:57,344 --> 00:33:00,931 But something changed and people began to leave. 548 00:33:00,931 --> 00:33:02,586 That's the real mystery here. 549 00:33:02,586 --> 00:33:05,655 Something must have happened. 550 00:33:05,655 --> 00:33:10,000 This is one of the most important archeological sites in North America, 551 00:33:10,000 --> 00:33:12,000 one of the most important in the world, 552 00:33:12,000 --> 00:33:15,931 and yet most Americans don't know much about it. 553 00:33:22,034 --> 00:33:24,655 Dating back over 1,000 years, 554 00:33:24,655 --> 00:33:27,275 the structures here reveal an early chapter 555 00:33:27,275 --> 00:33:29,310 in the human history of this land. 556 00:33:31,172 --> 00:33:36,000 Jon Ghahate is a member of two of New Mexico's Pueblo communities. 557 00:33:37,241 --> 00:33:39,068 The skills that were evolved here 558 00:33:39,068 --> 00:33:43,655 to create the kinds of structures that we see a millennia later, 559 00:33:43,655 --> 00:33:45,068 they are still here. 560 00:33:45,068 --> 00:33:47,000 This structure, at one point in time, 561 00:33:47,000 --> 00:33:50,000 was about the height of about four to five stories. 562 00:33:50,000 --> 00:33:53,379 This wall is at least 3 feet thick. 563 00:33:53,379 --> 00:33:56,241 That there are two external walls 564 00:33:56,241 --> 00:33:59,344 and then a second wall where rubble would be used 565 00:33:59,344 --> 00:34:02,689 because it has to support the surrounding or upper walls. 566 00:34:02,689 --> 00:34:05,965 That's why it has to be so thick. 567 00:34:05,965 --> 00:34:10,448 The structure covers an area of around two football fields. 568 00:34:10,448 --> 00:34:12,689 And through years of excavations, 569 00:34:12,689 --> 00:34:17,758 it's been estimated it had around 650 rooms. 570 00:34:17,758 --> 00:34:20,103 This is Pueblo Bonito, 571 00:34:20,103 --> 00:34:24,137 the grandest of the great houses built in this canyon. 572 00:34:25,310 --> 00:34:27,137 It's not just the skill of the labor, 573 00:34:27,137 --> 00:34:28,655 it's the sheer physical work. 574 00:34:28,655 --> 00:34:30,724 They didn't have draft animals, 575 00:34:30,724 --> 00:34:34,310 they didn't have mules or oxen. 576 00:34:35,448 --> 00:34:38,206 As far as the walls and the ceilings, 577 00:34:38,206 --> 00:34:42,103 most of this wood comes from at least 50-55 miles away 578 00:34:42,103 --> 00:34:44,655 from the Chuska Mountains and the Zuni Mountains. 579 00:34:45,482 --> 00:34:46,758 We have to also remember, 580 00:34:46,758 --> 00:34:49,068 all of this was done with human labor 581 00:34:49,068 --> 00:34:53,137 as well as simply other simple tools, bone, wood and stone. 582 00:34:54,620 --> 00:34:57,689 We learn a lot from the evidence left behind. 583 00:34:57,689 --> 00:35:00,000 But at the core of this story 584 00:35:00,000 --> 00:35:03,586 is the mystery of what this place really was. 585 00:35:06,724 --> 00:35:11,137 Originally a nomadic people from around the mid-9th century, 586 00:35:11,137 --> 00:35:14,862 it was ancestral Puebloans who began to settle here. 587 00:35:16,310 --> 00:35:18,724 This is when the construction of this site really begins. 588 00:35:18,724 --> 00:35:20,827 And it continues for centuries. 589 00:35:22,655 --> 00:35:24,000 Key walls of this site 590 00:35:24,000 --> 00:35:27,758 were constructed along the cardinal directions of the compass, 591 00:35:27,758 --> 00:35:31,655 while certain windows are aligned with astronomical events. 592 00:35:32,689 --> 00:35:34,862 They were positioned around the sun 593 00:35:34,862 --> 00:35:37,275 to mark the solstice and the equinox. 594 00:35:37,275 --> 00:35:40,310 The had meaning and purpose. 595 00:35:40,310 --> 00:35:42,655 This was an engineering marvel. 596 00:35:42,655 --> 00:35:47,931 Sites such as this really reveal that there was a long history 597 00:35:47,931 --> 00:35:50,413 in this land before Europeans came, 598 00:35:50,413 --> 00:35:53,103 and that it was sophisticated. 599 00:35:53,103 --> 00:35:55,689 Twelve other great houses are found here. 600 00:35:55,689 --> 00:36:00,931 But this was just one area in a larger civilization. 601 00:36:00,931 --> 00:36:05,034 There were around 150 of these great houses in the region. 602 00:36:05,034 --> 00:36:07,413 And they were connected by a road system. 603 00:36:07,413 --> 00:36:09,586 They were all part of the same society, 604 00:36:09,586 --> 00:36:12,551 a shared way of life. 605 00:36:12,551 --> 00:36:16,413 This culture reached across large parts of New Mexico 606 00:36:16,413 --> 00:36:18,620 up into Colorado and Utah 607 00:36:18,620 --> 00:36:20,310 and west into Arizona. 608 00:36:20,310 --> 00:36:22,137 This was a very dominant group. 609 00:36:23,896 --> 00:36:25,275 For centuries, 610 00:36:25,275 --> 00:36:29,172 Pueblo Bonito flourished as the largest of these structures 611 00:36:29,172 --> 00:36:33,241 and the center of this so-called Chacoan culture. 612 00:36:33,241 --> 00:36:36,206 But then, something changed. 613 00:36:37,896 --> 00:36:40,965 The twist in the tale comes soon after 614 00:36:40,965 --> 00:36:44,206 when, suddenly, they began to leave. 615 00:36:44,206 --> 00:36:45,655 In one corner of the site, 616 00:36:45,655 --> 00:36:49,689 you can see there's been a rockfall, a huge collapse. 617 00:36:49,689 --> 00:36:53,034 And you immediately wonder if that played a role in its decline. 618 00:37:07,000 --> 00:37:10,000 Built around 1,000 years ago, 619 00:37:10,000 --> 00:37:13,620 Pueblo Bonito stood as the largest building in this land 620 00:37:13,620 --> 00:37:16,172 for around eight centuries. 621 00:37:16,172 --> 00:37:20,413 Dominating the site is the large central plaza, 622 00:37:20,413 --> 00:37:24,034 a clue to what this all may have been built for. 623 00:37:25,862 --> 00:37:28,620 Most scientists presume that this was a place 624 00:37:28,620 --> 00:37:30,517 where all the people, all the community members, 625 00:37:30,517 --> 00:37:34,206 participated either with trade or ceremonies. 626 00:37:34,206 --> 00:37:36,137 But they also kind of congregated 627 00:37:36,137 --> 00:37:39,586 to perhaps maybe celebrate or just have a feast or a fair 628 00:37:39,586 --> 00:37:41,827 that you would expect them to share something together. 629 00:37:43,206 --> 00:37:45,517 The scale of the structure suggests 630 00:37:45,517 --> 00:37:48,620 a large population could have lived here. 631 00:37:48,620 --> 00:37:51,827 But something is amiss. 632 00:37:51,827 --> 00:37:54,000 One of the things that we do not see here 633 00:37:54,000 --> 00:37:57,586 is what we call trash mittance or garbage. 634 00:37:57,586 --> 00:38:01,862 Why don't we have large-- evidence of large amounts of trash? 635 00:38:01,862 --> 00:38:04,586 That's why the accepted hypothesis is 636 00:38:04,586 --> 00:38:08,137 that only a small group of people lived here at any one point in time 637 00:38:08,137 --> 00:38:10,896 and other groups came here either on a pilgrimage 638 00:38:10,896 --> 00:38:13,965 or of a way to visit this place. 639 00:38:13,965 --> 00:38:16,137 Something that adds to this theory 640 00:38:16,137 --> 00:38:19,379 is the abundance of these large circular structures 641 00:38:19,379 --> 00:38:21,862 known as kivas, 642 00:38:21,862 --> 00:38:26,034 the largest of which has a diameter of around 70 feet 643 00:38:26,034 --> 00:38:29,310 and lies to the south of Pueblo Bonito. 644 00:38:29,310 --> 00:38:31,448 It's suspected that perhaps it probably was 645 00:38:31,448 --> 00:38:35,551 able to hold the whole community at one point in time. 646 00:38:35,551 --> 00:38:37,620 They would have been covered over 647 00:38:37,620 --> 00:38:41,758 either as underground structures, sunken down into the earth, 648 00:38:41,758 --> 00:38:45,517 or as roofed buildings with an access point on top, 649 00:38:45,517 --> 00:38:48,103 likely with a ladder to lead you down inside. 650 00:38:50,000 --> 00:38:52,344 We see them throughout Chaco Canyon 651 00:38:52,344 --> 00:38:55,103 as well as other extensions of the culture 652 00:38:55,103 --> 00:38:57,551 that existed throughout the southwest. 653 00:38:57,551 --> 00:39:00,793 But it's a way that we can simply understand 654 00:39:00,793 --> 00:39:03,482 that the humans who created places like this 655 00:39:03,482 --> 00:39:05,310 had some existential constructs. 656 00:39:05,310 --> 00:39:09,275 They perhaps have belief in the afterlife, 657 00:39:09,275 --> 00:39:12,793 a belief in the spirit or the soul of a human being 658 00:39:12,793 --> 00:39:17,896 that they made a conscious effort to incorporate that into their society. 659 00:39:20,137 --> 00:39:23,448 While Pueblo Bonito could have been a site of pilgrimage 660 00:39:23,448 --> 00:39:25,965 or intended for ceremonial use, 661 00:39:25,965 --> 00:39:28,965 the kivas also represent something more, 662 00:39:28,965 --> 00:39:31,482 a link to the modern day. 663 00:39:31,482 --> 00:39:34,965 Only this time, any mystery surrounding their use 664 00:39:34,965 --> 00:39:37,241 stems from a conscious decision. 665 00:39:39,103 --> 00:39:42,586 The current-day Pueblos have these structures within our communities 666 00:39:42,586 --> 00:39:44,137 that we still use, 667 00:39:44,137 --> 00:39:45,862 that they are part of our rituals, 668 00:39:45,862 --> 00:39:48,517 our existential constructs. 669 00:39:48,517 --> 00:39:52,724 Kivas are ways of helping us understand that we are spiritual beings, 670 00:39:52,724 --> 00:39:54,172 but at the same time, 671 00:39:54,172 --> 00:39:56,551 we protect what we want to 672 00:39:56,551 --> 00:39:59,068 and simply not divulge in completely everything. 673 00:40:01,482 --> 00:40:03,379 Across three centuries, 674 00:40:03,379 --> 00:40:08,206 the structures of Chaco Canyon continue to grow in size and importance. 675 00:40:09,068 --> 00:40:10,586 But it wouldn't last. 676 00:40:14,724 --> 00:40:18,517 There's a huge rock collapse in the corner of this site. 677 00:40:18,517 --> 00:40:22,620 But that happened long after the ancestral Puebloans were gone. 678 00:40:22,620 --> 00:40:24,724 Something else led to their leaving. 679 00:40:26,344 --> 00:40:30,310 And it wasn't only Pueblo Bonito that was affected. 680 00:40:30,310 --> 00:40:34,448 Around the 12th, 13th century, something happened, 681 00:40:34,448 --> 00:40:37,517 something significant enough to change the culture, 682 00:40:37,517 --> 00:40:41,068 to change the approach to living across the region. 683 00:40:41,068 --> 00:40:44,413 This thriving community just started to empty. 684 00:40:46,655 --> 00:40:49,379 Theories covering drought, disease, violence 685 00:40:49,379 --> 00:40:52,034 and religious change have been suggested. 686 00:40:53,620 --> 00:40:54,862 But for now, at least, 687 00:40:54,862 --> 00:40:58,172 the answers to exactly what this place was built for 688 00:40:58,172 --> 00:41:00,068 and why it ended 689 00:41:00,068 --> 00:41:01,827 remain a mystery. 690 00:41:06,310 --> 00:41:09,241 While the inhabitants departed long ago, 691 00:41:09,241 --> 00:41:14,448 the significance of Chaco Canyon and these sites remains. 692 00:41:14,448 --> 00:41:16,862 Perhaps some of the first impressions that people experience 693 00:41:16,862 --> 00:41:18,620 is that it's abandoned. 694 00:41:18,620 --> 00:41:20,000 But it's really not abandoned 695 00:41:20,000 --> 00:41:22,413 as it applies to our Pueblo culture. 696 00:41:22,413 --> 00:41:25,793 These places are significant even today. 697 00:41:25,793 --> 00:41:28,965 They give us a sense of looking into the past, 698 00:41:28,965 --> 00:41:31,931 but it helps us understand who we are in the present 699 00:41:31,931 --> 00:41:34,034 and then certainly who we are in the future. 700 00:41:35,344 --> 00:41:36,862 For Jon, however, 701 00:41:36,862 --> 00:41:41,482 the lessons aren't limited to the descendants of this culture. 702 00:41:41,482 --> 00:41:44,068 One of the important things we as humans can learn 703 00:41:44,068 --> 00:41:45,620 is what history is. 704 00:41:45,620 --> 00:41:48,000 It gives us a sense of place, where we belong 705 00:41:48,000 --> 00:41:50,344 in this greater thing we call the cosmos, 706 00:41:50,344 --> 00:41:52,344 this universe. 707 00:41:52,344 --> 00:41:54,827 Literally, we are just part of something 708 00:41:54,827 --> 00:41:56,793 and we are connected to everything. 709 00:41:56,793 --> 00:41:59,689 By learning about some of those components, 710 00:41:59,689 --> 00:42:01,344 we realize that we belong here. 711 00:42:01,344 --> 00:42:04,275 And, therefore, we should take care of this planet. 712 00:42:04,275 --> 00:42:07,896 That's what we can learn by experiencing places like Chaco. 56930

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