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Abandoned structures hold
the secrets of America's past.
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00:00:06,689 --> 00:00:10,482
An imposing construction
reveals a little-known chapter
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00:00:10,482 --> 00:00:13,241
in an era-defining story.
4
00:00:22,206 --> 00:00:28,344
A frozen landscape shows
how wars abroad
shaped the homeland.
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00:00:28,344 --> 00:00:30,724
When they set off all
the powder from the bombs,
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00:00:30,724 --> 00:00:32,137
you'd stand outside the house,
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00:00:32,137 --> 00:00:33,655
and it would just
shake the earth
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00:00:33,655 --> 00:00:36,689
and the little mushroom clouds
would come up.
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00:00:36,689 --> 00:00:39,758
And an ancient
wonder offers a glimpse
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00:00:39,758 --> 00:00:42,758
into this land's long
human story.
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00:00:42,758 --> 00:00:45,586
We don't really know
why they created this place
12
00:00:45,586 --> 00:00:47,310
and then
what caused them to leave.
13
00:00:47,310 --> 00:00:49,172
That's the great mystery.
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00:00:52,862 --> 00:00:57,103
Scattered across the United States
are abandoned structures,
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00:00:58,517 --> 00:01:01,344
forgotten ruins of the past,
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00:01:01,344 --> 00:01:05,448
monuments to a bygone era.
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00:01:05,448 --> 00:01:09,551
Each shines a light
on the story of this land
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00:01:09,551 --> 00:01:11,655
and its people.
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00:01:11,655 --> 00:01:16,172
These are the secrets of
hidden America.
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00:01:24,517 --> 00:01:26,862
Deep in the heartland,
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00:01:26,862 --> 00:01:30,379
hundreds of miles
from the nearest major city,
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00:01:30,379 --> 00:01:34,758
is an old facility with
a new secret.
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We're out basically
in the middle of nowhere.
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The site is enormous.
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00:01:44,379 --> 00:01:49,413
And we have
these different structures
dotted around for miles.
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00:01:49,413 --> 00:01:52,379
The first
impression that everybody has
when they come here,
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00:01:52,379 --> 00:01:54,310
hands down
across the board,
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00:01:54,310 --> 00:01:56,241
is simply "wow."
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00:01:57,793 --> 00:02:01,379
The more you
traverse this landscape,
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00:02:01,379 --> 00:02:06,413
the more you realize
how much is here
31
00:02:06,413 --> 00:02:09,517
and how much
possibly happened here.
32
00:02:10,896 --> 00:02:14,793
While much of the site fell
into disrepair long ago,
33
00:02:14,793 --> 00:02:20,620
the largest section
appears almost unchanged.
34
00:02:20,620 --> 00:02:24,241
The scale of
the original site was right
around the size of Manhattan.
35
00:02:24,241 --> 00:02:26,482
But what you see
behind me right here,
36
00:02:26,482 --> 00:02:29,206
this is the most
important part of it all.
37
00:02:30,758 --> 00:02:32,448
The design of the bunkers,
38
00:02:32,448 --> 00:02:35,103
the spacing
between the bunkers,
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00:02:35,103 --> 00:02:37,827
tells you
all you need to know.
40
00:02:37,827 --> 00:02:42,103
This was a place that was
filled with danger.
41
00:02:44,413 --> 00:02:48,241
But with those
risks now long gone,
42
00:02:48,241 --> 00:02:50,793
something else
is taking root here,
43
00:02:50,793 --> 00:02:54,448
and life is slowly
beginning to return.
44
00:02:55,482 --> 00:02:58,068
This facility was
abandoned for decades.
45
00:02:58,068 --> 00:02:59,862
But now things are changing.
46
00:02:59,862 --> 00:03:02,448
What these were built for originally
47
00:03:02,448 --> 00:03:05,827
makes it absolutely perfect
for what it's becoming today.
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00:03:12,655 --> 00:03:15,724
In operation
for over two decades,
49
00:03:15,724 --> 00:03:19,620
this was once
a highly-secure military site,
50
00:03:19,620 --> 00:03:24,862
as Tom Simons recalls from
his days growing up
on a neighboring ranch.
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00:03:25,689 --> 00:03:27,000
When we were kids,
52
00:03:27,000 --> 00:03:30,793
we'd hunt rabbits and bobcats
over on the west end
53
00:03:30,793 --> 00:03:33,275
and we found
a hole under the fence,
54
00:03:33,275 --> 00:03:36,103
and we'd crawl under there
and pursue our bobcats,
55
00:03:36,103 --> 00:03:37,724
and the guards would come.
56
00:03:37,724 --> 00:03:39,206
They were in jeeps,
57
00:03:39,206 --> 00:03:41,965
they had like
a .50 caliber machine gun
mounted on the back.
58
00:03:41,965 --> 00:03:44,103
When you're nine years old,
you get pretty scared.
59
00:03:45,931 --> 00:03:48,586
Now a shell of
its former self,
60
00:03:48,586 --> 00:03:49,758
at the time,
61
00:03:49,758 --> 00:03:53,586
the armed security
was here for a reason.
62
00:03:53,586 --> 00:03:56,827
These buildings,
from what I gather from
some of my friends,
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00:03:56,827 --> 00:03:59,655
was small arms storage.
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00:03:59,655 --> 00:04:02,758
Like weapons,
...50 caliber machine guns, handheld,
65
00:04:02,758 --> 00:04:05,034
I guess ammunition
for like ANA aircraft
66
00:04:05,034 --> 00:04:06,862
and different things
like that.
67
00:04:08,413 --> 00:04:11,689
The facility,
as a whole at some point,
68
00:04:11,689 --> 00:04:15,965
housed bombs, grenades, rockets
69
00:04:16,586 --> 00:04:18,344
and chemical toxins.
70
00:04:20,206 --> 00:04:22,586
There was
a truly nasty cocktail
71
00:04:22,586 --> 00:04:24,344
of chemical agents stored
72
00:04:24,344 --> 00:04:28,862
such as VX gas, mustard gas
and sarin.
73
00:04:28,862 --> 00:04:31,413
They weren't nice ingredients.
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00:04:31,413 --> 00:04:35,310
This is the
Black Hills Ordnance Depot,
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00:04:35,310 --> 00:04:42,034
a site established
to make sure the United States
was equipped for war.
76
00:04:42,034 --> 00:04:45,896
After the attack
on Pearl Harbor
in December 1941,
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00:04:45,896 --> 00:04:48,275
America was thrown
into the war.
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00:04:48,275 --> 00:04:50,689
So, all of the sudden, is was
no longer about preparation
79
00:04:50,689 --> 00:04:54,137
and more about ramping up
production of weapons
and munitions.
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00:04:55,517 --> 00:04:58,241
The purpose of this place
was to receive munitions,
81
00:04:58,241 --> 00:04:59,931
store it safely and
maintain it
82
00:04:59,931 --> 00:05:01,793
so it was ready when
it needed to be sent out.
83
00:05:03,000 --> 00:05:06,931
Construction began
in early 1942.
84
00:05:06,931 --> 00:05:09,689
Here stood a
vehicle classification area.
85
00:05:11,344 --> 00:05:16,827
Nearby was an airfield,
ammunition workshops
and packing areas.
86
00:05:16,827 --> 00:05:21,000
Burning grounds for
old munitions
were located at the edges.
87
00:05:21,000 --> 00:05:24,241
Chemical weapons
were in the northwest.
88
00:05:24,241 --> 00:05:28,206
But the largest area was
filled with storage bunkers
89
00:05:28,206 --> 00:05:30,965
or "igloos,"
as they were nicknamed.
90
00:05:30,965 --> 00:05:34,482
In total, 802 were built.
91
00:05:38,103 --> 00:05:40,241
2,200 square foot apiece.
92
00:05:40,241 --> 00:05:43,448
2 to 3-feet thick
concrete walls all around
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00:05:43,448 --> 00:05:45,137
and double rebar
94
00:05:45,137 --> 00:05:47,000
insulated under the earth.
95
00:05:47,000 --> 00:05:49,931
Inside every one of
these bunkers
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00:05:49,931 --> 00:05:53,448
was as many
as you could imagine
97
00:05:53,448 --> 00:05:56,275
bombs,
ordnance or all kinds,
98
00:05:56,275 --> 00:05:58,413
these things were
packed to the gills.
99
00:05:59,448 --> 00:06:02,827
These bunkers were
constructed impeccably.
100
00:06:02,827 --> 00:06:04,724
And the worst you'll see
out of any of these
101
00:06:04,724 --> 00:06:08,413
after 80 years in existence
to this day
102
00:06:08,413 --> 00:06:10,448
is minor cracking.
103
00:06:12,275 --> 00:06:16,068
The first shipments
arrived in late 1942,
104
00:06:16,068 --> 00:06:19,172
well before the site
was fully completed.
105
00:06:19,172 --> 00:06:21,448
But with war raging abroad,
106
00:06:21,448 --> 00:06:22,758
across the country,
107
00:06:22,758 --> 00:06:25,896
sites like this were put
straight into use.
108
00:06:27,000 --> 00:06:28,931
We had
military personnel,
109
00:06:28,931 --> 00:06:31,000
we had
the advanced technology.
110
00:06:31,000 --> 00:06:33,448
If you can't back that up
with the ordnance
111
00:06:33,448 --> 00:06:36,137
and the weapons
to sustain that fight
112
00:06:36,137 --> 00:06:39,275
that they knew would go on
for a very long time,
113
00:06:39,275 --> 00:06:42,586
we would have been
out of the game a lot earlier.
114
00:06:42,586 --> 00:06:45,103
A permanent labor
force had to be brought in
115
00:06:45,103 --> 00:06:47,206
to operate the facility.
116
00:06:47,206 --> 00:06:51,689
And from this,
a new community soon grew.
117
00:06:51,689 --> 00:06:53,137
To accommodate
the work force,
118
00:06:53,137 --> 00:06:55,931
they essentially had to
develop a small town.
119
00:06:55,931 --> 00:06:58,551
There was accommodation for
1,000 people working here,
120
00:06:58,551 --> 00:07:01,241
a hospital, a school,
a movie theater,
121
00:07:01,241 --> 00:07:02,655
a bowling alley.
122
00:07:03,689 --> 00:07:05,689
But the call to arms
123
00:07:05,689 --> 00:07:09,482
also brought with it
something unexpected.
124
00:07:09,482 --> 00:07:11,000
Across the country,
125
00:07:11,000 --> 00:07:15,413
age-old barriers were
beginning to break down.
126
00:07:15,413 --> 00:07:22,241
Reports show that there were
160 Native Americans
working in this space.
127
00:07:22,241 --> 00:07:26,103
And there was also
a strong presence of the WOWs,
128
00:07:26,103 --> 00:07:30,379
women ordnance workers.
129
00:07:30,379 --> 00:07:32,000
It's a shame that
it actually took a war
130
00:07:32,000 --> 00:07:33,896
to bring about
that kind of change,
131
00:07:33,896 --> 00:07:36,724
but this was a turning point
in that history.
132
00:07:38,379 --> 00:07:42,034
However,
social change
at sites like this
133
00:07:42,034 --> 00:07:44,172
came at a price.
134
00:07:44,172 --> 00:07:46,965
For those working here
over the years,
135
00:07:46,965 --> 00:07:49,482
danger was ever-present.
136
00:07:49,896 --> 00:07:51,413
In 1946,
137
00:07:51,413 --> 00:07:56,517
a forklift driver punctured
a 100-pound bomb
138
00:07:56,517 --> 00:07:59,275
filled with white phosphorus.
139
00:07:59,275 --> 00:08:06,241
It then engulfed over 38,000
bombs in flames.
140
00:08:13,206 --> 00:08:15,862
When you're storing these
extremely dangerous materials,
141
00:08:15,862 --> 00:08:17,793
accidents can happen.
142
00:08:17,793 --> 00:08:19,724
And that's exactly
what happened in 1950
143
00:08:19,724 --> 00:08:23,448
when three people
were killed by an explosion.
144
00:08:23,448 --> 00:08:28,034
But while
originally designed
to contain deadly materials,
145
00:08:28,034 --> 00:08:29,482
more recently,
146
00:08:29,482 --> 00:08:31,931
the bunkers have been
offering protection
147
00:08:31,931 --> 00:08:34,344
from the outside, instead.
148
00:08:49,137 --> 00:08:50,379
In 1950,
149
00:08:50,379 --> 00:08:53,655
this site was suddenly
thrown into action once more.
150
00:08:55,275 --> 00:09:00,344
The Korean War
saw America calling on
its stockpiled ordnance,
151
00:09:00,344 --> 00:09:04,827
and this time,
Black Hills was ready.
152
00:09:04,827 --> 00:09:07,655
War played a key part
153
00:09:07,655 --> 00:09:11,241
in the United States history
of the 20th century.
154
00:09:11,241 --> 00:09:13,655
So often,
we think about the battles.
155
00:09:13,655 --> 00:09:16,758
We don't talk about
what was happening here
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00:09:16,758 --> 00:09:18,517
on the home front.
157
00:09:19,655 --> 00:09:20,862
Hidden sites like this
158
00:09:20,862 --> 00:09:24,137
remind us of all the effort
that goes into that
159
00:09:24,137 --> 00:09:27,482
in order to be able to fight
these wars successfully.
160
00:09:28,862 --> 00:09:31,482
After 25 years
of service,
161
00:09:31,482 --> 00:09:33,827
the site would close.
162
00:09:33,827 --> 00:09:37,034
The bunkers were emptied
and left to the elements.
163
00:09:38,896 --> 00:09:41,655
But far from
remaining silent forever,
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00:09:41,655 --> 00:09:44,620
something new is
drawing people back here.
165
00:09:47,344 --> 00:09:50,793
There's really two reasons
why people want to be here.
166
00:09:50,793 --> 00:09:53,931
One is because there's
a huge desire
to just be off-grid
167
00:09:53,931 --> 00:09:56,586
and living a simpler life,
in a way.
168
00:09:56,586 --> 00:09:57,655
The other reason is
169
00:09:57,655 --> 00:10:00,379
this facility is amazing
for disaster preparedness
170
00:10:00,379 --> 00:10:01,896
because these bunkers
will protect you
171
00:10:01,896 --> 00:10:03,206
from just about anything.
172
00:10:05,586 --> 00:10:09,344
In 2016,
a company called Vivos
173
00:10:09,344 --> 00:10:13,000
bought up around
575 of the bunkers.
174
00:10:14,448 --> 00:10:17,206
So this is my bunker.
Home away from home.
175
00:10:17,206 --> 00:10:20,068
It started out very modest
and very empty and basic,
176
00:10:20,068 --> 00:10:21,275
just like the other ones
you've seen.
177
00:10:21,275 --> 00:10:24,448
But this is what can
be done inside here.
178
00:10:24,448 --> 00:10:26,482
I have a large
solar panel outside.
179
00:10:26,482 --> 00:10:29,827
That's my primary
power generation.
180
00:10:29,827 --> 00:10:32,379
We have water purification
up front.
181
00:10:32,379 --> 00:10:35,241
And we have, um,
you know, casually,
182
00:10:35,241 --> 00:10:39,310
just a nuclear biological
chemical filtration unit
on the other side.
183
00:10:40,827 --> 00:10:43,172
Back here,
we have fuel storage.
184
00:10:43,172 --> 00:10:45,862
And this is your ladder
to get up into the attic.
185
00:10:45,862 --> 00:10:49,000
If you were to be
locked down in here for a year
or even more,
186
00:10:49,000 --> 00:10:51,551
you need all the storage
you can get.
187
00:10:51,551 --> 00:10:54,896
Um, back here, we have
a nice large gun safe.
188
00:10:57,758 --> 00:10:59,379
For the Black Hills site,
189
00:10:59,379 --> 00:11:02,482
this latest chapter in
its story is bringing back
190
00:11:02,482 --> 00:11:06,379
something that was lost
a long time ago.
191
00:11:06,379 --> 00:11:12,034
Like many communities
that are built up around
military investments,
192
00:11:12,034 --> 00:11:16,241
once the facility closes,
people move away.
193
00:11:16,241 --> 00:11:21,000
Slowly, this community is
beginning to reappear.
194
00:11:21,000 --> 00:11:23,862
It's really
all kinds of people.
195
00:11:23,862 --> 00:11:27,068
We have people with very
high-tech medical equipment,
196
00:11:27,068 --> 00:11:30,241
entire arsenals of weaponry,
197
00:11:30,241 --> 00:11:33,241
people with basically
all the seedlings
that you could need
198
00:11:33,241 --> 00:11:36,275
to start and run a greenhouse
that could feed a community.
199
00:11:37,724 --> 00:11:39,034
We're full-time
residents here.
200
00:11:39,034 --> 00:11:40,310
There are about 30--
201
00:11:40,310 --> 00:11:43,551
between 30 and 40 other
full-time residents here
right now.
202
00:11:43,551 --> 00:11:46,896
From our perspective,
this is home.
203
00:11:46,896 --> 00:11:50,000
While bunker life
isn't for everyone,
204
00:11:50,000 --> 00:11:55,655
these old structures continue
to hold their own
in the modern world.
205
00:11:55,655 --> 00:11:58,206
I have a good number
of friends that
I've known for a long time,
206
00:11:58,206 --> 00:12:00,931
and they were curious about
what I was doing
207
00:12:00,931 --> 00:12:04,068
until the pandemic.
208
00:12:04,068 --> 00:12:06,344
They are suddenly
incredibly interested
209
00:12:06,344 --> 00:12:08,620
in putting themselves in
a better position
210
00:12:08,620 --> 00:12:11,275
to where their pantry won't
run empty in three days.
211
00:12:11,275 --> 00:12:13,655
If things did go crazy
in the world,
212
00:12:13,655 --> 00:12:16,413
if someone straight up
declared war on America
213
00:12:16,413 --> 00:12:18,689
or there was enormous
civil unrest,
214
00:12:18,689 --> 00:12:20,793
I feel completely safe here.
215
00:12:20,793 --> 00:12:23,448
I can provide for my power
and my water.
216
00:12:23,448 --> 00:12:24,793
We're good.
217
00:12:30,655 --> 00:12:34,103
Today,
the bunkers and
the other parts of the site
218
00:12:34,103 --> 00:12:36,275
help illustrate
how the country's past
219
00:12:36,275 --> 00:12:39,482
has left its mark on the land.
220
00:12:39,482 --> 00:12:40,655
In the '40s,
221
00:12:40,655 --> 00:12:42,896
war was totally different
than it is today.
222
00:12:42,896 --> 00:12:46,965
And this was a necessary
facility back in those years.
223
00:12:48,241 --> 00:12:50,000
In a way, I'm glad it ended,
224
00:12:50,000 --> 00:12:54,000
because we don't need this
no more.
225
00:12:54,000 --> 00:12:57,413
And it's sad to see all
the buildings falling down.
226
00:12:57,413 --> 00:13:00,551
It's just a part of our
history that we can't change.
227
00:13:09,724 --> 00:13:12,793
In the foothills
of the Appalachians
228
00:13:12,793 --> 00:13:18,379
is a quiet site that became
famous for the wrong reasons.
229
00:13:23,448 --> 00:13:25,172
We're in a rural part
of Tennessee,
230
00:13:25,172 --> 00:13:28,551
kind of far away from
any place that you would
really wanna be
231
00:13:28,551 --> 00:13:31,379
by foot or car.
232
00:13:31,379 --> 00:13:35,413
A winding road
cuts through the range,
233
00:13:35,413 --> 00:13:39,275
ending at a walled fortress.
234
00:13:39,275 --> 00:13:41,517
It's built out of
a light-colored sandstone.
235
00:13:41,517 --> 00:13:43,068
And with its prenylated top,
236
00:13:43,068 --> 00:13:45,103
it looks rather like a castle.
237
00:13:45,103 --> 00:13:47,000
It's very out of place
in the area.
238
00:13:48,758 --> 00:13:53,310
This place is
a mishmash of architecture.
239
00:13:53,310 --> 00:13:55,206
Some of it is modern.
240
00:13:55,206 --> 00:13:57,551
There are older structures.
241
00:13:57,551 --> 00:14:01,724
Cleary, it has been built
and rebuilt over the years.
242
00:14:03,620 --> 00:14:07,655
But inside are
rotting walls and rusted bars
243
00:14:07,655 --> 00:14:10,931
that reveal its true purpose.
244
00:14:10,931 --> 00:14:12,862
It's absolutely depressing.
245
00:14:12,862 --> 00:14:17,103
You know that the prisoners
inside this prison
246
00:14:17,103 --> 00:14:19,103
had horrific existences.
247
00:14:20,620 --> 00:14:24,172
This is Brushy Mountain
State Penitentiary.
248
00:14:25,758 --> 00:14:30,103
Some of America's most
dangerous criminals
were locked inside here.
249
00:14:31,827 --> 00:14:34,689
But it was one inmate's crime
250
00:14:34,689 --> 00:14:38,034
that changed the course
of American history
251
00:14:38,034 --> 00:14:42,275
and drew the eyes of the world
to this place.
252
00:14:55,965 --> 00:15:00,551
Teddy Basler arrived here
nearly 40 years ago.
253
00:15:00,551 --> 00:15:04,551
His job, to keep convicted
felons under lock and key.
254
00:15:20,862 --> 00:15:23,275
Behind these doors
were murderers,
255
00:15:23,275 --> 00:15:25,000
violent criminals
256
00:15:25,000 --> 00:15:26,862
and sex offenders.
257
00:15:26,862 --> 00:15:29,827
Stand here, and every fiber
of your being will scream,
258
00:15:29,827 --> 00:15:31,551
"This is the end of the road."
259
00:15:33,275 --> 00:15:35,724
But this
high-security facility
260
00:15:35,724 --> 00:15:38,517
started life as
a simpler structure.
261
00:15:39,344 --> 00:15:40,793
In the late 1800s,
262
00:15:40,793 --> 00:15:43,206
Brushy Mountain
State Penitentiary
263
00:15:43,206 --> 00:15:44,413
was a wooden prison.
264
00:15:46,137 --> 00:15:48,034
But in the 1930s,
265
00:15:48,034 --> 00:15:51,413
authorities decided to
put the prisoners to work
266
00:15:51,413 --> 00:15:53,689
to rebuild it
267
00:15:53,689 --> 00:15:58,000
basically ensuring that they
would not be able to escape.
268
00:16:00,103 --> 00:16:02,482
Brushy was designed
to be a threat.
269
00:16:02,482 --> 00:16:05,068
To be sent here,
you'd either been convicted of
a heinous crime
270
00:16:05,068 --> 00:16:06,586
or no one else would have you.
271
00:16:09,551 --> 00:16:10,862
For the inmates,
272
00:16:10,862 --> 00:16:14,241
living quarters were
small and sparse.
273
00:16:47,931 --> 00:16:50,275
Brushy Mountain
State Penitentiary
274
00:16:50,275 --> 00:16:53,379
kept some of America's
most notorious felons.
275
00:16:54,000 --> 00:16:56,206
But in March of 1970,
276
00:16:56,206 --> 00:16:59,068
Brushy's most famous
inmate arrived,
277
00:17:00,413 --> 00:17:04,137
a man named James Earl Ray.
278
00:17:06,551 --> 00:17:08,275
James Earl Ray was a fugitive
279
00:17:08,275 --> 00:17:09,724
from the
Missouri State Prison.
280
00:17:09,724 --> 00:17:11,689
He was a petty criminal.
281
00:17:11,689 --> 00:17:15,379
He's the dregs of
American society.
282
00:17:15,379 --> 00:17:19,000
And he played a role in
forever changing
the landscape of America
283
00:17:19,000 --> 00:17:21,931
by killing Reverend
Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr.
284
00:17:24,413 --> 00:17:27,379
On April 4th, 1968,
285
00:17:27,379 --> 00:17:30,551
King was staying at
the Lorraine Motel in Memphis.
286
00:17:32,000 --> 00:17:33,586
As he stood on his balcony,
287
00:17:33,586 --> 00:17:35,379
a single bullet struck him.
288
00:17:38,310 --> 00:17:39,896
The world stopped.
289
00:17:41,172 --> 00:17:43,758
Riots took place
across the country.
290
00:17:46,172 --> 00:17:48,275
I actually remember the day
291
00:17:48,275 --> 00:17:51,103
and how afraid I was of
the National Guard
292
00:17:51,103 --> 00:17:53,896
when they came
into my Black community,
293
00:17:53,896 --> 00:17:55,172
as a little boy.
294
00:17:55,172 --> 00:17:58,034
It stayed with me
like it happened yesterday.
295
00:18:00,482 --> 00:18:02,896
A manhunt began.
296
00:18:02,896 --> 00:18:05,827
James Earl Ray
was the number one suspect.
297
00:18:07,862 --> 00:18:10,448
He was captured
in London, England,
298
00:18:10,448 --> 00:18:13,068
and sentenced to
99 years in prison
299
00:18:13,068 --> 00:18:15,551
at Brushy Mountain
State Penitentiary.
300
00:18:26,000 --> 00:18:28,206
When we found out
he was coming here,
301
00:18:28,206 --> 00:18:30,344
we had staff meetings here
all the time.
302
00:18:30,344 --> 00:18:32,379
He was a major escape risk.
303
00:18:35,413 --> 00:18:39,413
On a June evening,
seven years into his sentence,
304
00:18:39,413 --> 00:18:41,448
Ray made his move.
305
00:18:43,758 --> 00:18:45,241
That evening,
I'm eating supper
306
00:18:45,241 --> 00:18:46,827
and the whistle starts blowing
307
00:18:46,827 --> 00:18:50,206
and then this long--
I think it was seven times.
308
00:18:50,206 --> 00:18:52,724
And I told my wife,
I was like, "Oh, hell, Lola.
309
00:18:56,758 --> 00:18:58,758
Oh, my God, honey, this--
it's a bad one.
310
00:18:58,758 --> 00:19:00,000
This is bad.
311
00:19:00,000 --> 00:19:02,206
If that man escapes,
312
00:19:02,206 --> 00:19:03,965
it's real bad."
313
00:19:22,241 --> 00:19:25,482
The inmates
squeezed through
a gap in the barbed wire,
314
00:19:25,482 --> 00:19:27,620
just 18 inches wide.
315
00:19:28,344 --> 00:19:29,482
And with that,
316
00:19:29,482 --> 00:19:33,724
America's highest-profile
criminal was on the run.
317
00:19:36,068 --> 00:19:38,413
Any escapee is dangerous.
318
00:19:38,413 --> 00:19:39,862
He's extremely dangerous.
319
00:19:39,862 --> 00:19:42,586
He'll hurt anybody
that gets in front of him.
320
00:19:55,758 --> 00:20:00,034
On June 10th, 1977,
the nation's attention
321
00:20:00,034 --> 00:20:02,862
was suddenly brought
upon this prison,
322
00:20:02,862 --> 00:20:07,275
for the man convicted of
killing Martin Luther King
had escaped.
323
00:20:08,931 --> 00:20:10,241
We had to call every employee.
324
00:20:10,241 --> 00:20:13,172
Every employee of the prison,
we would call in.
325
00:20:13,172 --> 00:20:15,724
The media
descended on the space.
326
00:20:15,724 --> 00:20:17,551
And people
all over the country
327
00:20:17,551 --> 00:20:20,000
watched the unfolding
of this manhunt.
328
00:20:22,172 --> 00:20:23,827
The sent the FBI in here.
329
00:20:23,827 --> 00:20:26,724
And I know most of the people
in the FBI are good people.
330
00:20:26,724 --> 00:20:27,896
But the ones
they sent up here,
331
00:20:27,896 --> 00:20:31,551
if they had been hand-picked
to be total rear ends,
332
00:20:31,551 --> 00:20:33,620
they-- they got 'em.
333
00:20:33,620 --> 00:20:35,896
They drove around at
night in cars
334
00:20:35,896 --> 00:20:38,241
shining lights up
in the woods.
335
00:20:38,241 --> 00:20:39,517
But you're not gonna
catch him
336
00:20:39,517 --> 00:20:41,862
shining lights up in
the trees at night.
337
00:20:43,241 --> 00:20:45,413
While the FBI
swept the roads,
338
00:20:45,413 --> 00:20:47,896
Tucker and his colleague,
Stawney Lane,
339
00:20:47,896 --> 00:20:50,758
planned an expedition
into the woods
340
00:20:50,758 --> 00:20:52,103
with bloodhounds.
341
00:20:54,068 --> 00:20:55,448
We called at night
342
00:20:55,448 --> 00:20:58,068
and he said,
"We got a really good track
going over here."
343
00:20:58,068 --> 00:21:00,137
Now he said, "I'm gonna
tell you something.
344
00:21:00,137 --> 00:21:03,275
If I call you anytime tonight
on the radio
345
00:21:03,275 --> 00:21:06,172
and I say the word 'shallow,'
346
00:21:07,034 --> 00:21:08,965
I got him.
We're looking at him."
347
00:21:11,137 --> 00:21:14,931
For two days,
Brushy's officers and the FBI
348
00:21:14,931 --> 00:21:17,344
raced to find James Earl Ray.
349
00:21:18,413 --> 00:21:19,655
When it come
over the radio,
350
00:21:19,655 --> 00:21:22,000
he said, "We've still got
a good track going."
351
00:21:22,000 --> 00:21:23,965
He said,
"It's hotter than hell."
352
00:21:23,965 --> 00:21:26,379
He said that "over here
is a shallow church,"
353
00:21:26,379 --> 00:21:29,034
boy, my hair stood up
all over me.
354
00:21:29,034 --> 00:21:31,034
He's looking at him.
They done got him.
355
00:21:31,034 --> 00:21:33,931
He said "shallow."
356
00:21:33,931 --> 00:21:37,172
The hounds tracked
Ray to a spot in the woods.
357
00:21:38,482 --> 00:21:40,758
Later, the dog handlers
showed reporters
358
00:21:40,758 --> 00:21:43,793
how he discovered Ray buried
in a pile of leaves.
359
00:21:47,000 --> 00:21:48,551
By the end of the fourth day,
360
00:21:48,551 --> 00:21:51,000
all the escapees
had been rounded up.
361
00:21:51,000 --> 00:21:53,758
And Ray was heading
to solitary.
362
00:22:02,620 --> 00:22:04,896
James Earl Ray
was put into D block.
363
00:22:04,896 --> 00:22:08,827
This was the bleakest place
that Brushy had to offer.
364
00:22:08,827 --> 00:22:11,517
Those in D block who were put
into solitary confinement,
365
00:22:11,517 --> 00:22:14,310
the spent 90% of the time
on their own.
366
00:22:14,310 --> 00:22:16,206
Their food was pushed through
a gap in the door.
367
00:22:19,137 --> 00:22:21,689
Ray spent
six months in here.
368
00:22:21,689 --> 00:22:22,931
A few years later,
369
00:22:22,931 --> 00:22:25,862
he was transferred to
another facility.
370
00:22:25,862 --> 00:22:29,103
He died behind bars in 1998.
371
00:22:31,551 --> 00:22:33,896
Brushy kept going,
but eventually,
372
00:22:33,896 --> 00:22:37,551
it couldn't keep up with
the growing prison population.
373
00:22:37,551 --> 00:22:42,034
In 2009, it was
shut down permanently.
374
00:22:49,172 --> 00:22:54,241
While this prison played its
role in the aftermath
of Martin Luther King's death,
375
00:22:54,241 --> 00:22:58,206
that tragic event had much
further-reaching consequences
376
00:22:58,206 --> 00:22:59,655
for American history.
377
00:23:01,655 --> 00:23:03,551
His assassination,
378
00:23:03,551 --> 00:23:07,448
particularly amongst
young African Americans
379
00:23:07,448 --> 00:23:09,827
and other
civil rights activists,
380
00:23:09,827 --> 00:23:13,000
created doubt about nonviolence
381
00:23:13,000 --> 00:23:17,068
and the hope
for a better America.
382
00:23:17,068 --> 00:23:20,172
It changed the face
of American history.
383
00:23:20,172 --> 00:23:24,620
Many situations,
those riot-torn urban centers,
384
00:23:24,620 --> 00:23:28,862
have never bounced back from
the destruction of 1968.
385
00:23:29,482 --> 00:23:30,965
So, in essence,
386
00:23:30,965 --> 00:23:33,689
the killing of Reverend
Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr.
387
00:23:33,689 --> 00:23:37,758
was a critical moment in, um,
388
00:23:37,758 --> 00:23:41,241
the larger chronicle-ization
of American history.
389
00:23:50,068 --> 00:23:52,931
In the lush hills
of wine country
390
00:23:52,931 --> 00:23:55,655
is a building
whose disastrous end
391
00:23:55,655 --> 00:23:58,896
was shrouded in mystery
for decades.
392
00:24:04,758 --> 00:24:07,206
We're in one of the most
beautiful parts of America,
393
00:24:07,206 --> 00:24:09,827
just north of San Francisco.
394
00:24:09,827 --> 00:24:12,931
Wineries, golden hilltops,
395
00:24:12,931 --> 00:24:14,551
oak rows,
396
00:24:14,551 --> 00:24:18,655
and we come across
this large structure.
397
00:24:20,206 --> 00:24:22,931
This place was clearly
something special.
398
00:24:22,931 --> 00:24:25,689
But it isn't immediately
apparent what happened here
399
00:24:25,689 --> 00:24:27,379
to leave it in this state.
400
00:24:28,517 --> 00:24:30,620
Found in a tranquil setting,
401
00:24:30,620 --> 00:24:34,000
together, it all reveals
something unexpected.
402
00:24:35,482 --> 00:24:40,689
This place tells a story of
one of America's
most famous writers.
403
00:24:40,689 --> 00:24:45,517
But the ruins show
that there was
a twist in this tale.
404
00:24:45,517 --> 00:24:46,758
What we're looking at here
405
00:24:46,758 --> 00:24:49,137
is the product
of one man's dream.
406
00:24:49,137 --> 00:24:52,931
It all came crashing down
in a single night of tragedy.
407
00:25:00,206 --> 00:25:03,310
Today,
these remains stand
within the boundaries
408
00:25:03,310 --> 00:25:06,275
of a state historic park.
409
00:25:06,275 --> 00:25:09,551
Bern Lefson has been
a docent here for 10 years.
410
00:25:10,931 --> 00:25:14,793
This was the home
of a very important
411
00:25:14,793 --> 00:25:19,172
famous individual in
US history.
412
00:25:19,172 --> 00:25:23,655
This structure was
the dream of Jack London,
413
00:25:23,655 --> 00:25:27,413
the most influential
writer of his time.
414
00:25:27,413 --> 00:25:31,586
His books were read
by people around the world.
415
00:25:34,137 --> 00:25:35,896
Today,
Jack London's books
416
00:25:35,896 --> 00:25:38,344
like White Fang
Call of the Wild,
417
00:25:38,344 --> 00:25:41,689
they're not held in
the highest literary esteem,
418
00:25:41,689 --> 00:25:43,172
but in his day,
419
00:25:43,172 --> 00:25:45,931
Jack London was a superstar.
420
00:25:47,310 --> 00:25:51,034
Costing close to
$2 million in today's money,
421
00:25:51,034 --> 00:25:56,310
this was intended to be
the home of Jack
and his second wife, Charmian.
422
00:25:56,310 --> 00:25:59,172
He named it Wolf House.
423
00:25:59,172 --> 00:26:03,275
Living here would have
made you felt like luxury.
424
00:26:04,034 --> 00:26:06,448
But with all of the windows,
425
00:26:06,448 --> 00:26:09,896
one would also feel
that you're part of nature,
426
00:26:09,896 --> 00:26:12,482
which was very
important to Jack.
427
00:26:14,413 --> 00:26:16,068
In 1911,
428
00:26:16,068 --> 00:26:17,896
the foundations were poured
429
00:26:17,896 --> 00:26:21,551
and they hid a secret.
430
00:26:21,551 --> 00:26:25,862
They were strong enough
to carry a 40-story building.
431
00:26:25,862 --> 00:26:29,965
The reason was down to the
1906 San Francisco Earthquake.
432
00:26:31,862 --> 00:26:35,310
It's estimated that between
70 and 80% of the city
was destroyed.
433
00:26:37,620 --> 00:26:40,310
London wanted to
make sure that his house
434
00:26:40,310 --> 00:26:43,482
would not only be
stable in an earthquake
435
00:26:43,482 --> 00:26:45,310
with the massive foundation,
436
00:26:45,310 --> 00:26:49,482
but also, as close
to fireproof as possible.
437
00:26:49,482 --> 00:26:52,655
He used volcanic rocks
for the walls.
438
00:26:52,655 --> 00:26:55,000
Where he had exposed wood,
439
00:26:55,000 --> 00:26:58,137
he used redwood
with the bark still on.
440
00:26:58,137 --> 00:27:02,068
Redwood trees are
famously resistant to fire.
441
00:27:03,931 --> 00:27:06,172
So with it
engineered to last,
442
00:27:06,172 --> 00:27:09,344
how did it end up like this?
443
00:27:22,758 --> 00:27:25,172
Jack London
had intended Wolf House
444
00:27:25,172 --> 00:27:28,482
to be a lasting monument
on his grand estate.
445
00:27:29,620 --> 00:27:32,137
What he was trying
to establish here
446
00:27:32,137 --> 00:27:35,620
was a far cry from
his adventure-fueled
formative years.
447
00:27:37,172 --> 00:27:39,931
Jack London grew up poor
on the streets,
448
00:27:39,931 --> 00:27:42,896
literally, on the streets
of San Francisco.
449
00:27:42,896 --> 00:27:44,965
He worked on seal boats,
450
00:27:44,965 --> 00:27:47,068
sailed as far as Japan,
451
00:27:47,068 --> 00:27:51,379
rode the rails back and forth
across the country,
452
00:27:51,379 --> 00:27:53,206
and this was all by
the age of 20.
453
00:27:55,068 --> 00:27:56,241
At 21,
454
00:27:56,241 --> 00:27:58,482
he chose to follow the
gold rush north
455
00:27:58,482 --> 00:27:59,896
into the Klondike.
456
00:28:01,000 --> 00:28:02,551
He spent about
a year up there
457
00:28:02,551 --> 00:28:03,896
meeting all
the various characters,
458
00:28:03,896 --> 00:28:06,172
talking to people,
taking in the scenery,
459
00:28:06,172 --> 00:28:08,206
and it's
out of that experience
460
00:28:08,206 --> 00:28:10,551
that the germ of his writing
was really born.
461
00:28:11,862 --> 00:28:15,965
London's novel
The Call of the Wild
in 1903
462
00:28:15,965 --> 00:28:19,000
was a huge success
and it made him rich.
463
00:28:20,413 --> 00:28:22,793
An affair,
the breakdown of his marriage
464
00:28:22,793 --> 00:28:25,000
and then
a new marriage followed.
465
00:28:25,000 --> 00:28:26,344
By 1905,
466
00:28:26,344 --> 00:28:29,689
the now-famous author
was looking to settle down.
467
00:28:33,137 --> 00:28:34,655
So, little
known about Jack London,
468
00:28:34,655 --> 00:28:38,689
he was actually
very passionate about
conserving the soil.
469
00:28:38,689 --> 00:28:40,206
And at that time
in California,
470
00:28:40,206 --> 00:28:42,827
farmers were using
chemical fertilizers
471
00:28:42,827 --> 00:28:45,620
and just basically
farming the soil out
472
00:28:45,620 --> 00:28:47,965
and moving on to another farm.
473
00:28:47,965 --> 00:28:50,965
And his travels
around the world showed him
474
00:28:50,965 --> 00:28:55,172
ways to farm in a better
more earth-friendly way.
475
00:28:55,172 --> 00:28:57,758
And that is something he
wanted to share with the world
476
00:28:57,758 --> 00:28:59,620
through his work here
in the land.
477
00:29:01,344 --> 00:29:03,965
The couple
bought up small areas of land
478
00:29:03,965 --> 00:29:08,689
to create their new property
called Beauty Ranch.
479
00:29:08,689 --> 00:29:10,689
And this
parcel here is the one
480
00:29:10,689 --> 00:29:13,655
that allowed them to
physically move onto the land
481
00:29:13,655 --> 00:29:17,379
and become residents of
their new dream together.
482
00:29:17,379 --> 00:29:20,137
This was really
a mark of success for Jack.
483
00:29:20,137 --> 00:29:22,413
This was really
the pinnacle of his dream,
484
00:29:22,413 --> 00:29:25,034
was to have a wonderful place
in the country
485
00:29:25,034 --> 00:29:27,310
that he could farm
with his wife
486
00:29:27,310 --> 00:29:29,413
and be very close to nature.
487
00:29:30,862 --> 00:29:33,241
The small cottage
provided lodging,
488
00:29:33,241 --> 00:29:36,965
but Wolf House was intended
to be their true home.
489
00:29:37,758 --> 00:29:41,034
However, in August, 1913,
490
00:29:41,034 --> 00:29:43,379
with the house
nearing completion,
491
00:29:43,379 --> 00:29:45,206
the unthinkable occurred.
492
00:29:46,379 --> 00:29:49,379
Jack was awakened
in the middle of the night
493
00:29:49,379 --> 00:29:52,896
being told that the Wolf House
was on fire.
494
00:29:52,896 --> 00:29:54,724
And when he got here,
495
00:29:54,724 --> 00:29:57,862
he noticed the whole roof
was engulfed
496
00:29:57,862 --> 00:30:00,586
and he knew
there was no saving it.
497
00:30:00,586 --> 00:30:04,241
What's left standing
is all that does not burn.
498
00:30:06,034 --> 00:30:07,482
Contained inside,
499
00:30:07,482 --> 00:30:09,827
a fire had
burned out of control
500
00:30:09,827 --> 00:30:11,517
before the alarm was raised.
501
00:30:13,482 --> 00:30:16,448
The sad irony is
the thick walls
502
00:30:16,448 --> 00:30:18,689
that were designed to
keep fire out
503
00:30:18,689 --> 00:30:21,793
did not handle the fire
that began within.
504
00:30:23,620 --> 00:30:27,758
For decades, the cause of
the fire remained a mystery.
505
00:30:27,758 --> 00:30:29,793
But in 1995,
506
00:30:29,793 --> 00:30:33,103
a forensics team
conducted a study of the site.
507
00:30:34,206 --> 00:30:36,034
We are
in the dining room
508
00:30:36,034 --> 00:30:41,689
and the fire was determined
by scientific methods
509
00:30:41,689 --> 00:30:44,379
to begin right in front
of that fireplace.
510
00:30:46,413 --> 00:30:48,206
Rags soaked in linseed oil
511
00:30:48,206 --> 00:30:51,758
had been used to treat
the interior wood surfaces.
512
00:30:51,758 --> 00:30:54,724
And it's believed that
at the end of the day,
513
00:30:54,724 --> 00:30:58,068
those rags were
left in a pile there.
514
00:30:58,068 --> 00:31:02,724
They were able to
actually confirm the
spontaneous combustion theory.
515
00:31:02,724 --> 00:31:04,413
It was an incredibly hot day
516
00:31:04,413 --> 00:31:07,172
and the sun beaming in
the open window
517
00:31:07,172 --> 00:31:09,172
hitting those rags just
heated them up
518
00:31:09,172 --> 00:31:12,379
until the point of combustion.
519
00:31:12,379 --> 00:31:15,068
In this case, by
the time anyone was aware
520
00:31:15,068 --> 00:31:16,862
the building was on fire,
521
00:31:16,862 --> 00:31:18,655
it was far too late
to do anything.
522
00:31:26,241 --> 00:31:31,482
Today, many
question Jack London's
personal and political views.
523
00:31:31,482 --> 00:31:33,965
What these sites offer,
though, is perhaps
524
00:31:33,965 --> 00:31:37,206
a glimpse at another side to
the famous author.
525
00:31:38,931 --> 00:31:41,448
London was
a fascinating figure
526
00:31:41,448 --> 00:31:44,241
in the history,
not just of literature,
527
00:31:44,241 --> 00:31:48,413
but ideas about conservation,
528
00:31:48,413 --> 00:31:51,068
about man's relationship
with nature
529
00:31:51,068 --> 00:31:53,103
and still, in some ways,
530
00:31:53,103 --> 00:31:56,000
there's a hint of that
lingering around these ruins.
531
00:32:03,310 --> 00:32:05,000
In the Four Corners region,
532
00:32:05,000 --> 00:32:09,655
where Arizona, Utah, Colorado
and New Mexico meet,
533
00:32:09,655 --> 00:32:13,068
ancient structures hide an
often overlooked part
534
00:32:13,068 --> 00:32:15,172
of this land's story.
535
00:32:19,413 --> 00:32:21,413
We're out in the wilds here.
536
00:32:21,413 --> 00:32:24,724
It's striking
and it's desolate.
537
00:32:24,724 --> 00:32:29,034
This feels like
such a quiet
and distant place today.
538
00:32:29,034 --> 00:32:31,758
But you can see from
all the remains dotted about
539
00:32:31,758 --> 00:32:34,172
that, years ago,
this was anything but.
540
00:32:36,931 --> 00:32:39,551
Aged forms
cover these grounds.
541
00:32:39,551 --> 00:32:43,103
But one stands apart.
542
00:32:43,103 --> 00:32:44,965
It's the kind of
settlement we associate
543
00:32:44,965 --> 00:32:48,551
with Mesoamerican
Native architecture,
544
00:32:48,551 --> 00:32:50,724
the Mayans or the Aztecs,
545
00:32:50,724 --> 00:32:54,034
or South America,
like the Incas.
546
00:32:54,034 --> 00:32:57,344
This was once
a thriving and populace area.
547
00:32:57,344 --> 00:33:00,931
But something changed
and people began to leave.
548
00:33:00,931 --> 00:33:02,586
That's the real mystery here.
549
00:33:02,586 --> 00:33:05,655
Something must have happened.
550
00:33:05,655 --> 00:33:10,000
This is one of the most
important archeological sites
in North America,
551
00:33:10,000 --> 00:33:12,000
one of the most important
in the world,
552
00:33:12,000 --> 00:33:15,931
and yet most Americans
don't know much about it.
553
00:33:22,034 --> 00:33:24,655
Dating back
over 1,000 years,
554
00:33:24,655 --> 00:33:27,275
the structures here
reveal an early chapter
555
00:33:27,275 --> 00:33:29,310
in the human history
of this land.
556
00:33:31,172 --> 00:33:36,000
Jon Ghahate is a member
of two of New Mexico's
Pueblo communities.
557
00:33:37,241 --> 00:33:39,068
The skills that were
evolved here
558
00:33:39,068 --> 00:33:43,655
to create the kinds of
structures that we see
a millennia later,
559
00:33:43,655 --> 00:33:45,068
they are still here.
560
00:33:45,068 --> 00:33:47,000
This structure,
at one point in time,
561
00:33:47,000 --> 00:33:50,000
was about the height of
about four to five stories.
562
00:33:50,000 --> 00:33:53,379
This wall is at least
3 feet thick.
563
00:33:53,379 --> 00:33:56,241
That there are
two external walls
564
00:33:56,241 --> 00:33:59,344
and then a second wall
where rubble would be used
565
00:33:59,344 --> 00:34:02,689
because it has to support the
surrounding or upper walls.
566
00:34:02,689 --> 00:34:05,965
That's why it
has to be so thick.
567
00:34:05,965 --> 00:34:10,448
The structure
covers an area of
around two football fields.
568
00:34:10,448 --> 00:34:12,689
And through years
of excavations,
569
00:34:12,689 --> 00:34:17,758
it's been estimated it had
around 650 rooms.
570
00:34:17,758 --> 00:34:20,103
This is Pueblo Bonito,
571
00:34:20,103 --> 00:34:24,137
the grandest of the great
houses built in this canyon.
572
00:34:25,310 --> 00:34:27,137
It's not just
the skill of the labor,
573
00:34:27,137 --> 00:34:28,655
it's the sheer physical work.
574
00:34:28,655 --> 00:34:30,724
They didn't have
draft animals,
575
00:34:30,724 --> 00:34:34,310
they didn't have mules
or oxen.
576
00:34:35,448 --> 00:34:38,206
As far as the walls
and the ceilings,
577
00:34:38,206 --> 00:34:42,103
most of this wood comes
from at least 50-55 miles away
578
00:34:42,103 --> 00:34:44,655
from the Chuska Mountains
and the Zuni Mountains.
579
00:34:45,482 --> 00:34:46,758
We have to also remember,
580
00:34:46,758 --> 00:34:49,068
all of this was done
with human labor
581
00:34:49,068 --> 00:34:53,137
as well as simply other simple
tools, bone, wood and stone.
582
00:34:54,620 --> 00:34:57,689
We learn a lot
from the evidence left behind.
583
00:34:57,689 --> 00:35:00,000
But at the core of this story
584
00:35:00,000 --> 00:35:03,586
is the mystery of
what this place really was.
585
00:35:06,724 --> 00:35:11,137
Originally a nomadic people from
around the mid-9th century,
586
00:35:11,137 --> 00:35:14,862
it was ancestral Puebloans
who began to settle here.
587
00:35:16,310 --> 00:35:18,724
This is when the construction
of this site really begins.
588
00:35:18,724 --> 00:35:20,827
And it continues
for centuries.
589
00:35:22,655 --> 00:35:24,000
Key walls of this site
590
00:35:24,000 --> 00:35:27,758
were constructed along
the cardinal directions
of the compass,
591
00:35:27,758 --> 00:35:31,655
while certain windows
are aligned with
astronomical events.
592
00:35:32,689 --> 00:35:34,862
They were positioned
around the sun
593
00:35:34,862 --> 00:35:37,275
to mark the solstice
and the equinox.
594
00:35:37,275 --> 00:35:40,310
The had meaning
and purpose.
595
00:35:40,310 --> 00:35:42,655
This was
an engineering marvel.
596
00:35:42,655 --> 00:35:47,931
Sites such as this
really reveal that
there was a long history
597
00:35:47,931 --> 00:35:50,413
in this land
before Europeans came,
598
00:35:50,413 --> 00:35:53,103
and that it was sophisticated.
599
00:35:53,103 --> 00:35:55,689
Twelve other
great houses are found here.
600
00:35:55,689 --> 00:36:00,931
But this was just one area in
a larger civilization.
601
00:36:00,931 --> 00:36:05,034
There were around
150 of these great houses
in the region.
602
00:36:05,034 --> 00:36:07,413
And they were
connected by a road system.
603
00:36:07,413 --> 00:36:09,586
They were all part of
the same society,
604
00:36:09,586 --> 00:36:12,551
a shared way of life.
605
00:36:12,551 --> 00:36:16,413
This culture
reached across
large parts of New Mexico
606
00:36:16,413 --> 00:36:18,620
up into Colorado and Utah
607
00:36:18,620 --> 00:36:20,310
and west into Arizona.
608
00:36:20,310 --> 00:36:22,137
This was a very
dominant group.
609
00:36:23,896 --> 00:36:25,275
For centuries,
610
00:36:25,275 --> 00:36:29,172
Pueblo Bonito flourished
as the largest
of these structures
611
00:36:29,172 --> 00:36:33,241
and the center of this
so-called Chacoan culture.
612
00:36:33,241 --> 00:36:36,206
But then, something changed.
613
00:36:37,896 --> 00:36:40,965
The twist in the tale
comes soon after
614
00:36:40,965 --> 00:36:44,206
when, suddenly,
they began to leave.
615
00:36:44,206 --> 00:36:45,655
In one corner of the site,
616
00:36:45,655 --> 00:36:49,689
you can see there's been
a rockfall, a huge collapse.
617
00:36:49,689 --> 00:36:53,034
And you immediately wonder
if that played a role
in its decline.
618
00:37:07,000 --> 00:37:10,000
Built around
1,000 years ago,
619
00:37:10,000 --> 00:37:13,620
Pueblo Bonito stood as the
largest building in this land
620
00:37:13,620 --> 00:37:16,172
for around eight centuries.
621
00:37:16,172 --> 00:37:20,413
Dominating the site
is the large central plaza,
622
00:37:20,413 --> 00:37:24,034
a clue to what this all
may have been built for.
623
00:37:25,862 --> 00:37:28,620
Most scientists presume
that this was a place
624
00:37:28,620 --> 00:37:30,517
where all the people,
all the community members,
625
00:37:30,517 --> 00:37:34,206
participated either with
trade or ceremonies.
626
00:37:34,206 --> 00:37:36,137
But they also
kind of congregated
627
00:37:36,137 --> 00:37:39,586
to perhaps maybe celebrate
or just have a feast or a fair
628
00:37:39,586 --> 00:37:41,827
that you would expect them
to share something together.
629
00:37:43,206 --> 00:37:45,517
The scale of
the structure suggests
630
00:37:45,517 --> 00:37:48,620
a large population
could have lived here.
631
00:37:48,620 --> 00:37:51,827
But something is amiss.
632
00:37:51,827 --> 00:37:54,000
One of the things
that we do not see here
633
00:37:54,000 --> 00:37:57,586
is what we call trash mittance
or garbage.
634
00:37:57,586 --> 00:38:01,862
Why don't we have large--
evidence of large amounts
of trash?
635
00:38:01,862 --> 00:38:04,586
That's why the accepted
hypothesis is
636
00:38:04,586 --> 00:38:08,137
that only a small group of
people lived here
at any one point in time
637
00:38:08,137 --> 00:38:10,896
and other groups came here
either on a pilgrimage
638
00:38:10,896 --> 00:38:13,965
or of a way
to visit this place.
639
00:38:13,965 --> 00:38:16,137
Something that
adds to this theory
640
00:38:16,137 --> 00:38:19,379
is the abundance of these
large circular structures
641
00:38:19,379 --> 00:38:21,862
known as kivas,
642
00:38:21,862 --> 00:38:26,034
the largest of which has
a diameter of around 70 feet
643
00:38:26,034 --> 00:38:29,310
and lies to the south
of Pueblo Bonito.
644
00:38:29,310 --> 00:38:31,448
It's suspected that
perhaps it probably was
645
00:38:31,448 --> 00:38:35,551
able to hold
the whole community
at one point in time.
646
00:38:35,551 --> 00:38:37,620
They would have
been covered over
647
00:38:37,620 --> 00:38:41,758
either as
underground structures,
sunken down into the earth,
648
00:38:41,758 --> 00:38:45,517
or as roofed buildings with
an access point on top,
649
00:38:45,517 --> 00:38:48,103
likely with a ladder
to lead you down inside.
650
00:38:50,000 --> 00:38:52,344
We see them
throughout Chaco Canyon
651
00:38:52,344 --> 00:38:55,103
as well as other
extensions of the culture
652
00:38:55,103 --> 00:38:57,551
that existed
throughout the southwest.
653
00:38:57,551 --> 00:39:00,793
But it's a way that we can
simply understand
654
00:39:00,793 --> 00:39:03,482
that the humans who
created places like this
655
00:39:03,482 --> 00:39:05,310
had some
existential constructs.
656
00:39:05,310 --> 00:39:09,275
They perhaps have belief
in the afterlife,
657
00:39:09,275 --> 00:39:12,793
a belief in the spirit
or the soul of a human being
658
00:39:12,793 --> 00:39:17,896
that they made a conscious
effort to incorporate that
into their society.
659
00:39:20,137 --> 00:39:23,448
While Pueblo Bonito
could have been a site
of pilgrimage
660
00:39:23,448 --> 00:39:25,965
or intended
for ceremonial use,
661
00:39:25,965 --> 00:39:28,965
the kivas also represent
something more,
662
00:39:28,965 --> 00:39:31,482
a link to the modern day.
663
00:39:31,482 --> 00:39:34,965
Only this time, any mystery
surrounding their use
664
00:39:34,965 --> 00:39:37,241
stems from
a conscious decision.
665
00:39:39,103 --> 00:39:42,586
The current-day Pueblos
have these structures
within our communities
666
00:39:42,586 --> 00:39:44,137
that we still use,
667
00:39:44,137 --> 00:39:45,862
that they are part of
our rituals,
668
00:39:45,862 --> 00:39:48,517
our existential constructs.
669
00:39:48,517 --> 00:39:52,724
Kivas are ways of helping us
understand that we are
spiritual beings,
670
00:39:52,724 --> 00:39:54,172
but at the same time,
671
00:39:54,172 --> 00:39:56,551
we protect what we want to
672
00:39:56,551 --> 00:39:59,068
and simply not divulge in
completely everything.
673
00:40:01,482 --> 00:40:03,379
Across three centuries,
674
00:40:03,379 --> 00:40:08,206
the structures of Chaco Canyon
continue to grow in size
and importance.
675
00:40:09,068 --> 00:40:10,586
But it wouldn't last.
676
00:40:14,724 --> 00:40:18,517
There's a huge
rock collapse in
the corner of this site.
677
00:40:18,517 --> 00:40:22,620
But that happened long after
the ancestral Puebloans
were gone.
678
00:40:22,620 --> 00:40:24,724
Something else
led to their leaving.
679
00:40:26,344 --> 00:40:30,310
And it wasn't
only Pueblo Bonito
that was affected.
680
00:40:30,310 --> 00:40:34,448
Around the 12th,
13th century,
something happened,
681
00:40:34,448 --> 00:40:37,517
something significant enough
to change the culture,
682
00:40:37,517 --> 00:40:41,068
to change the approach
to living across the region.
683
00:40:41,068 --> 00:40:44,413
This thriving community
just started to empty.
684
00:40:46,655 --> 00:40:49,379
Theories covering
drought, disease, violence
685
00:40:49,379 --> 00:40:52,034
and religious change
have been suggested.
686
00:40:53,620 --> 00:40:54,862
But for now, at least,
687
00:40:54,862 --> 00:40:58,172
the answers to exactly
what this place was built for
688
00:40:58,172 --> 00:41:00,068
and why it ended
689
00:41:00,068 --> 00:41:01,827
remain a mystery.
690
00:41:06,310 --> 00:41:09,241
While the inhabitants
departed long ago,
691
00:41:09,241 --> 00:41:14,448
the significance of
Chaco Canyon and these sites remains.
692
00:41:14,448 --> 00:41:16,862
Perhaps some of
the first impressions
that people experience
693
00:41:16,862 --> 00:41:18,620
is that it's abandoned.
694
00:41:18,620 --> 00:41:20,000
But it's really not abandoned
695
00:41:20,000 --> 00:41:22,413
as it applies to
our Pueblo culture.
696
00:41:22,413 --> 00:41:25,793
These places are significant
even today.
697
00:41:25,793 --> 00:41:28,965
They give us a sense of
looking into the past,
698
00:41:28,965 --> 00:41:31,931
but it helps us understand
who we are in the present
699
00:41:31,931 --> 00:41:34,034
and then certainly
who we are in the future.
700
00:41:35,344 --> 00:41:36,862
For Jon, however,
701
00:41:36,862 --> 00:41:41,482
the lessons aren't limited to
the descendants of
this culture.
702
00:41:41,482 --> 00:41:44,068
One of the important
things we as humans can learn
703
00:41:44,068 --> 00:41:45,620
is what history is.
704
00:41:45,620 --> 00:41:48,000
It gives us a sense of place,
where we belong
705
00:41:48,000 --> 00:41:50,344
in this greater thing
we call the cosmos,
706
00:41:50,344 --> 00:41:52,344
this universe.
707
00:41:52,344 --> 00:41:54,827
Literally, we are
just part of something
708
00:41:54,827 --> 00:41:56,793
and we are connected
to everything.
709
00:41:56,793 --> 00:41:59,689
By learning about some
of those components,
710
00:41:59,689 --> 00:42:01,344
we realize
that we belong here.
711
00:42:01,344 --> 00:42:04,275
And, therefore, we should
take care of this planet.
712
00:42:04,275 --> 00:42:07,896
That's what we can learn
by experiencing
places like Chaco.
56930
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