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Insight Asia
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Asian Corridor in Heaven
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< Road to Pilgrimage >
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After the fall harvest,
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men on horses gather
in the village.
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Tomorrow, they will be starting off
on their pilgrimage to Lhasa, Tibet.
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Calingding, Dege, Sichuan Province,
October 20, 2006
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A small village in China's
Dege of Sichuan Province.
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This town lies on the border
of Tibet and Sichuan Province.
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The pilgrims are busy with their
last-minute preparations.
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This is a glove made of
wood and leather.
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It's a necessity for these people
who will be bowing on the ground.
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They need about 50-60
wooden gloves
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00:02:51,538 --> 00:02:55,908
in order to make it to
Lhasa bowing along the way.
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00:03:17,497 --> 00:03:24,069
All of the pilgrims are shepherds
that attend to yaks.
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00:03:24,804 --> 00:03:30,375
As they are nomads, they are very
familiar with packing.
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00:03:40,620 --> 00:03:42,921
But the trails that
they must take
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are dangerous
beyond one's imagination.
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Five men pay a visit
to the living Buddha.
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For the Tibetans, the living Buddha
is an incarnation of Buddha himself.
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The pilgrims must do everything
that the Buddha tells them to.
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The living Buddha informs
the travellers of
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what they must remember
during their pilgrimage.
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The full bows begin
in front of the white tower
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at the temple of
the living Buddha.
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The pilgrims must not kill
living things on the road.
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They leave for their journey,
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promising not to lie and
to avoid temptations.
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2, 100 kilometers to Lhasa.
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It's a long way on foot.
But they must travel
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the entire path bowing,
with their heads, two hands
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00:06:04,263 --> 00:06:07,232
and feet touching the ground.
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For the Tibetans, the pilgrimage
is a life-long dream.
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00:06:31,290 --> 00:06:35,494
Everyone knows what
a difficult task it is,
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without even having to ask.
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In a cave, the living Buddha recites
Buddhist text each time
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villagers go on a pilgrimage.
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He prays that the pilgrims
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00:07:28,881 --> 00:07:33,051
will be safe on their travels.
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00:08:03,049 --> 00:08:07,719
View of Zhangdu in Tibet,
December 20, 2006
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Meanwhile, a wagon loaded
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with food and camping
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00:10:04,904 --> 00:10:08,073
equipment follows behind.
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00:10:17,116 --> 00:10:18,717
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00:10:18,718 --> 00:10:21,319
Pulling the heavy wagon is
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just as difficult as
performing the bows.
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00:10:30,429 --> 00:10:33,098
The procession is still slow.
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00:10:33,633 --> 00:10:37,502
They can travel only
6 kilometers per day.
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00:11:03,095 --> 00:11:08,466
The pilgrims rest after travelling
for only 200 meters.
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00:11:12,304 --> 00:11:19,678
Why must they go on this very
dangerous and difficult journey?
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00:11:22,114 --> 00:11:25,417
It's not easy to be born human again
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and I don't want to waste
the rest of my life.
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00:11:31,123 --> 00:11:32,924
Going on the pilgrimage to Lhasa
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is the most meaningful thing
I've done in my life.
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00:11:37,329 --> 00:11:42,233
I've seen many people spend
their lives in agony and die.
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00:11:42,234 --> 00:11:44,302
Perhaps, they will end up
in horrendous hell.
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00:11:45,538 --> 00:11:47,639
I'm preparing for my death because
it's bound to happen someday.
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The pilgrimage is a preparation for
my next life when I'm born again.
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The path from Sichuan to Lhasa.
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00:12:04,690 --> 00:12:09,494
The plateau is situated
at 4,000 meters above sea level
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00:12:09,495 --> 00:12:11,296
and used to be an important path
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in the Himalayas dating
back to the Tang Dynasty.
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00:12:18,104 --> 00:12:19,704
Amongst the pilgrims,
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there are families that
have come with children.
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00:13:04,784 --> 00:13:07,585
We asked one pilgrim
on the road
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why she was taking on
such a difficult task.
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00:13:20,499 --> 00:13:25,270
Her first son died recently
in an accident.
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00:13:26,705 --> 00:13:28,606
The family had forsaken all of
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00:13:28,607 --> 00:13:32,577
their possessions and started
out on this pilgrimage.
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00:13:42,321 --> 00:13:48,092
It was really hard after my son died.
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00:13:49,128 --> 00:13:54,899
But it's something that everyone
must go through in life.
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00:13:56,135 --> 00:14:00,805
I'm sacrificing myself on this
road to pilgrimage.
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00:14:02,074 --> 00:14:05,176
I pray for all living
creatures as
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I go on this very
difficult journey.
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In the process, my family is able to
find stability and happiness.
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00:14:28,701 --> 00:14:35,073
For the Tibetans, life and death
are linked on a single wheel.
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A sky burial was being carried out.
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The burial consists of a corpse cut into
pieces and fed to the vultures.
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00:14:48,420 --> 00:14:51,890
It's a traditional burial
of the Tibetans.
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00:14:52,925 --> 00:14:56,694
As the hungry vultures' are fed,
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the bodies are given back to
the world as offerings.
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00:15:04,069 --> 00:15:06,137
Sky burials and the pilgrimage.
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00:15:06,772 --> 00:15:11,042
They're both dire prayers
for all living life forms.
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00:15:31,797 --> 00:15:37,068
View of Bangda in Tibet,
January 3, 2006
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It's not just the well paved roads
that the pilgrims travel on.
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00:17:13,665 --> 00:17:18,436
They must past through steep
hills and cross deep valleys.
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00:17:58,710 --> 00:18:03,347
Having reached a stream,
the pilgrims must bow
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according to the width
of it before crossing.
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00:18:25,170 --> 00:18:28,039
The same applies when
they meet a wall.
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00:18:29,374 --> 00:18:34,445
They must bow down in advance of
what they cannot cross.
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They've travelled 600
kilometers so far.
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They must continue to go another
1,500 kilometers in this fashion.
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00:20:43,542 --> 00:20:48,112
Two elderly men, Busa and Lulu,
are getting ready to camp out.
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00:20:55,654 --> 00:20:59,824
The two men pull the carts,
set up tents,
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00:21:00,158 --> 00:21:03,060
fetch water, and prepare meals for
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00:21:05,097 --> 00:21:08,065
the three people who
are on the pilgrimage.
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00:21:29,721 --> 00:21:32,089
They start out late but
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00:21:32,424 --> 00:21:36,394
arrive early at their destinations
to wait for the three men.
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00:21:44,236 --> 00:21:48,306
Another long and hard day has
passed for the pilgrims.
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00:21:49,641 --> 00:21:53,344
Bread made of barley
powder and tea
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is all that they eat for dinner.
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00:22:11,496 --> 00:22:13,764
Along the road,
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00:22:14,099 --> 00:22:15,800
local villagers dressed in
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traditional Tibetan costumes
greet the pilgrims.
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00:22:24,910 --> 00:22:28,379
A living Buddha from a nearby temple
has come to see them.
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00:22:36,121 --> 00:22:42,293
A white cloth called the "hada"
is presented to the living Buddha.
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00:22:46,231 --> 00:22:51,302
The living Buddha then hangs the "hada"
on each person's neck with blessing.
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00:23:22,801 --> 00:23:26,570
The living Buddha leaves the
village in just a few minutes.
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00:23:28,707 --> 00:23:31,809
But for the simple villagers
of the mountains,
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his visit is a great
blessing and comfort.
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00:24:58,396 --> 00:24:59,663
The full bow is
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00:25:00,332 --> 00:25:04,268
one that allows one to lower himself
or herself to the fullest.
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00:25:05,871 --> 00:25:09,440
The three claps before the bow
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signifies one's body,
mind, and words.
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00:25:15,380 --> 00:25:18,682
And by bowing on the ground,
theses three elements
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00:25:18,683 --> 00:25:20,651
are offered to Buddha.
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00:25:26,791 --> 00:25:29,093
At this point in time,
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00:25:29,094 --> 00:25:32,863
pilgrims believe that all people
are bowing down with
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00:25:33,198 --> 00:25:37,468
them and that Buddha will accept
all of their earnest prayers.
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00:26:33,592 --> 00:26:39,163
A large, hard mole has appeared on
the forehead of all three men.
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00:26:41,499 --> 00:26:45,769
It's a wound that had healed only to
be cut open again many times.
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00:26:47,105 --> 00:26:49,907
The harder the bruise is,
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the longer and more difficult
the pilgrimage had been.
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00:26:56,414 --> 00:27:02,519
After our departure,
each of us used 15 wooden gloves.
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00:27:04,856 --> 00:27:08,158
I brought eight leather aprons,
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00:27:08,159 --> 00:27:10,227
but I've used up five already.
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00:27:11,463 --> 00:27:21,138
The only thing left now are rubber tires
and it's very heavy.
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00:27:24,075 --> 00:27:27,778
I already have many wounds.
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00:27:27,779 --> 00:27:31,849
My feet and chest
have been bruised.
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00:27:40,392 --> 00:27:44,294
Numerous blisters have come
and gone on my knee
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00:27:44,295 --> 00:27:47,064
and have hardened the skin.
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00:27:53,304 --> 00:27:59,810
All of my joints are
swollen in the morning
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00:27:59,811 --> 00:28:03,814
and my hands have
hardened as well.
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00:28:14,659 --> 00:28:17,327
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00:28:18,763 --> 00:28:24,835
The leather aprons must be replaced every
100 kilometers travelled.
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00:28:25,470 --> 00:28:27,438
When the leather
becomes worn out,
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00:28:27,772 --> 00:28:31,742
pieces of rubber tire are
used to fill up the holes.
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00:30:06,905 --> 00:30:09,873
Elevation is high
at 4,500 kilometers.
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00:30:10,708 --> 00:30:14,578
The temperature falls to below 20
in the middle of the night.
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00:30:43,641 --> 00:30:49,613
The exhausting day comes to an end
as the pilgrims read their text.
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00:30:55,153 --> 00:30:59,122
Mt. Mila in Tibet,
March 7, 2007
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00:31:02,894 --> 00:31:04,661
The next morning...
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00:31:20,111 --> 00:31:24,481
Busa has hit the road once more
but he has hard time breathing.
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00:31:25,416 --> 00:31:29,486
Breathing is difficult when walking up
the highly elevated mountain.
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00:31:51,843 --> 00:31:56,914
Two men have started their full bows
where they left off yesterday.
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00:31:57,649 --> 00:31:59,616
There is one person missing.
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00:32:06,090 --> 00:32:12,262
The youngest Dawa has decided to pull
the cart because he isn't feeling well.
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00:32:46,531 --> 00:32:49,700
Busa is sixty six this year.
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00:33:08,686 --> 00:33:13,156
He's been sick with a lung condition
for the longest time.
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00:33:29,507 --> 00:33:32,309
He was able to come
on this trip only
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00:33:32,310 --> 00:33:36,213
after persuading the living
Buddha who had been
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00:33:36,214 --> 00:33:38,882
worried about Busa's health.
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00:33:43,921 --> 00:33:49,092
Going on this trip was
Busa's last wish in life.
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00:34:06,477 --> 00:34:10,747
Mt. Mila is an alpine 5,400 kilometers in height.
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00:34:12,083 --> 00:34:17,154
The alp is the most difficult hurdle
for the pilgrims.
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00:34:29,100 --> 00:34:33,670
Lapa and Cheoja have reached
the rough mountain path.
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00:36:35,092 --> 00:36:42,165
The pilgrims climb up a steep cliff
that lacks proper path.
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00:36:47,104 --> 00:36:51,274
They cannot go around
it just because it's rugged.
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00:37:02,553 --> 00:37:08,024
The Tibetans believe that
the more pain you suffer,
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00:37:08,459 --> 00:37:13,029
the greater your sin
will be cleansed.
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00:38:18,763 --> 00:38:24,334
They start to prepare lunch having reached
the peak of Mt. Mila late in the afternoon.
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00:38:42,687 --> 00:38:49,359
All they have left to eat now are
some beef jerky and bits of bread.
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00:38:56,300 --> 00:38:58,868
Their bodies are
sick and exhausted
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00:38:59,203 --> 00:39:02,505
but no one is worried about
the remaining journey.
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00:39:03,140 --> 00:39:04,708
If someone were to die,
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00:39:04,709 --> 00:39:08,645
a funeral will be held on that spot.
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00:39:08,646 --> 00:39:11,848
It's actually an honour to
die during a pilgrimage.
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00:39:11,849 --> 00:39:14,551
If the illness becomes severe,
I may have to go back home
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00:39:14,552 --> 00:39:18,121
so that I'm not a burden
to the other men.
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00:39:19,256 --> 00:39:23,426
But I want to finish the journey
because I've come this far.
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00:40:15,212 --> 00:40:20,884
Busa is pulling the cart once more
on his way down Mt. Mila.
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00:40:22,620 --> 00:40:27,190
The downhill allows
the pilgrims to increase speed,
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00:40:27,425 --> 00:40:31,094
pressing on 10 kilometers per day.
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00:41:54,445 --> 00:41:58,114
This is the first village they've
come across after Mt. Mila.
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A lady from the village offers some tea
with yak butter to the tired men.
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The Tibetans know
that the pilgrimage
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is not just an individual
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00:42:19,303 --> 00:42:24,073
task but encompasses everyone.
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00:43:25,102 --> 00:43:30,373
The ill-stricken Busa visits
a nearby hospital.
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00:43:41,619 --> 00:43:47,290
It won't be easy to cure his illness
in this small village clinic.
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00:43:53,330 --> 00:43:55,531
The doctor tells him
to take a rest,
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00:43:55,532 --> 00:43:59,602
but Busa wishes to
push on forward.
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00:44:12,383 --> 00:44:16,252
The winter weather in the
plateau is very fickle.
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00:44:18,288 --> 00:44:23,059
The sandstorm and the snow are
a nuisance to the pilgrims.
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00:44:34,304 --> 00:44:38,174
Rice was prepared for Busa,
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00:44:39,810 --> 00:44:44,380
but he's too sick to eat,
taking in a cup of tea instead.
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00:45:14,078 --> 00:45:18,247
It's been 6 months since the pilgrims
have left Dege of Sichuan Province.
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00:45:18,582 --> 00:45:20,450
Spring has come at last.
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00:45:21,485 --> 00:45:24,854
Lhasa is not so far away now.
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00:45:58,722 --> 00:46:02,825
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00:46:35,793 --> 00:46:40,296
185 days have passed on their journey.
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00:46:40,297 --> 00:46:43,866
The pilgrims are finally able to
see Lhasa within their sights.
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00:47:13,363 --> 00:47:18,534
As they enter Lhasa,
even Busa has started to bow again.
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00:47:40,490 --> 00:47:44,293
This is the Potala Palace of the
Tubo Kingdom that once ruled
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00:47:44,294 --> 00:47:47,163
the Tibetan lands 1,200 years ago.
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00:47:54,104 --> 00:47:57,106
Potala Palace, a historical landmark,
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00:47:57,107 --> 00:48:01,077
presents a time when the teachings
of Buddha ruled Tibet.
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00:48:08,852 --> 00:48:15,725
It's a holy place where Tibetans
are strongly attracted to.
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00:48:22,165 --> 00:48:27,637
Why is it that Tibetans yearn
so much to travel to Lhasa?
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00:48:39,683 --> 00:48:42,752
The answer lies here.
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00:48:45,789 --> 00:48:48,357
The Chimpu Stream is situated in Northern Lhasa.
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00:48:53,096 --> 00:48:56,165
It's a place where hermits
come to meditate.
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00:49:03,640 --> 00:49:08,811
Padmasambhava came to Tibet
1,000 years ago from India.
204
00:49:10,047 --> 00:49:11,247
205
00:49:11,248 --> 00:49:14,617
He spread Buddhism in all of Tibet.
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00:49:15,052 --> 00:49:19,722
He taught the Tibetans
about life after death.
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00:49:20,557 --> 00:49:23,759
This cave is where he meditated
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00:49:23,760 --> 00:49:27,029
when he first arrived in Tibet.
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00:49:36,573 --> 00:49:40,343
The pilgrims have finished their journey.
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00:49:40,677 --> 00:49:43,145
They meditate according to the
teachings of Padmasambhava,
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00:49:43,380 --> 00:49:48,150
while awaiting death
and preparing for their next lives.
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00:49:58,095 --> 00:50:02,098
The people that come to Chimpu
213
00:50:02,099 --> 00:50:04,567
have rid their lives of comfort
and worldly desires.
214
00:50:18,115 --> 00:50:23,085
People seek Lhasa and Chimpu
despite the adversities
215
00:50:24,121 --> 00:50:29,091
because these places are considered to be
mirrors on which to reflect their souls.
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00:50:53,450 --> 00:50:59,321
The pilgrims head for their final destination
amongst the crowd.
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00:51:13,703 --> 00:51:15,404
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00:51:15,405 --> 00:51:18,507
They're heading for Jokhang Temple,
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00:51:18,508 --> 00:51:21,577
the head temple of Tibetan Buddhism.
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00:51:35,225 --> 00:51:38,794
186 days have passed.
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00:51:39,129 --> 00:51:42,198
The pilgrims are finally in front of
their final destination,
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00:51:42,532 --> 00:51:45,201
the Jokhang Temple.
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00:51:47,938 --> 00:51:51,307
They've realized their wishes.
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00:52:24,908 --> 00:52:27,877
People handover the 'hada'
to the pilgrims
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00:52:28,111 --> 00:52:31,380
and congratulate them on
the end of their noble journey.
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00:52:49,332 --> 00:52:54,603
The heavily locked doors open
at 5 o'clock in the afternoon.
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00:53:25,502 --> 00:53:29,705
Jokhang Temple was founded
by Songsten Gampo,
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00:53:29,706 --> 00:53:34,877
the King that unified Tibet for
the firs time in the 7th century
229
00:53:35,812 --> 00:53:39,515
When Princess Mung-chang of the
Tang Dynasty came to wed
230
00:53:39,516 --> 00:53:43,719
King Songsten Gampo, she brought
along with her a statue of
231
00:53:43,720 --> 00:53:46,689
Buddha that can be found
inside the temple.
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00:53:50,126 --> 00:53:54,630
Tibetans have prayed and worshipped
233
00:53:54,631 --> 00:53:58,601
the statue for the last 1,400 years.
234
00:54:05,575 --> 00:54:09,645
The pilgrims have travelled
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00:54:10,080 --> 00:54:16,051
2, 100 kilometers
to see this statue.
236
00:54:25,895 --> 00:54:29,164
The men have finished
their visit to the temple.
237
00:54:32,102 --> 00:54:37,072
But their pilgrimage
isn't over just yet.
238
00:54:40,410 --> 00:54:42,611
I prayed about just one thing
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00:54:42,612 --> 00:54:46,282
the minute I left home
until I arrived in Lhasa.
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00:54:47,117 --> 00:54:51,687
In the past, I had too much to
drink and led a dissipated life.
241
00:54:52,522 --> 00:54:57,092
And I've been praying about what type
of person I want to be in the future.
242
00:54:57,827 --> 00:54:59,228
I've prayed in front of the Buddha statue
243
00:54:59,229 --> 00:55:01,697
at Jokhang Temple for the well-being
of all living creatures.
244
00:55:02,666 --> 00:55:04,867
After the pilgrimage, I'm going to
perform only good deeds.
245
00:55:04,868 --> 00:55:07,348
In order to do this, I'm going to leave
home and become a lama.
246
00:55:10,573 --> 00:55:17,179
My wish came true upon arriving in Lhasa.
247
00:55:17,180 --> 00:55:21,850
Buddha taught us to seek benevolence.
248
00:55:22,886 --> 00:55:27,189
I want to be someone with
a big heart in my next life
249
00:55:27,190 --> 00:55:32,061
so that I can lessen
the sufferings of others.
250
00:55:33,596 --> 00:55:42,071
While I'm still alive, I want to spend
my life praying for others.
251
00:56:03,059 --> 00:56:08,630
The pilgrims that travelled 2, 100 kilometers,
over a period of 7 months,
252
00:56:09,265 --> 00:56:13,035
have started their full bows again
in front of Jokhang Temple.
253
00:56:18,074 --> 00:56:20,843
Lhasa isn't the end of their pilgrimage.
254
00:56:22,178 --> 00:56:26,148
For these men that have started out
in the Himalayas,
255
00:56:28,284 --> 00:56:32,855
It's just the beginning of a new pilgrimage.
256
00:56:45,402 --> 00:56:49,104
These men arrived in Jokhang Temple
On April 21, 2007,
257
00:56:49,105 --> 00:56:52,307
and left on June 14, 2007,
258
00:56:52,308 --> 00:56:55,477
after bowing another 100,000 times.
259
00:57:02,352 --> 00:57:09,625
Busa and Lulu went back
to their hometowns.
260
00:57:15,765 --> 00:57:20,135
Dawa went to a mountain near his hometown
to pick vegetable worms to earn money.
261
00:57:23,873 --> 00:57:30,045
Lappa and Cheoja became lamas
when they returned to their temple.
22542
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