All language subtitles for Aerial.Argentina.S01E01.The.Pampas.1080p.WEB.h264-CAFFEiNE

[upbeat music]

♪ ♪

- Is Argentina
on your bucket list?

From the continent's
tallest mountain

to the oceans' gentle giants,

it's where people play
on the wind,

trains chase history,

and kids chase glory.

It can look otherworldly,

but it's one of the most
scenic places on the planet.

We're starting
in the heartland,

a place Argentina
calls the Pampas.

Here, soccer stars
are larger than life,

tango dancing
pops up everywhere,

and frontier traditions
are flat-out fun.

Wait, another mural?

They just love 'em here,

especially in the irresistible
city of Buenos Aires.

From up high,
we'll give you the down low

on the country, the city,

and the stories that radiate
in every direction.

[upbeat music]

♪ ♪

[indistinct chanting]

- Buenos Aires,
June 10, 2021.

The city erupts
in wild celebration.

The Argentine soccer team

has just defeated
its archrival, Brazil,

to win the Copa America.

This is when you get
a true sense

of Argentinian
passion and spirit

in the city that's the heart
of the nation.

Argentina is on the Atlantic
coast of South America.

The heartland region
is called the Pampas,

and on the coast is
the nation's most famous city,

Buenos Aires.

[upbeat music]

♪ ♪

Some just call it BA,

and it's packed with people,
history,

and plenty of temptations.

The city is double the size
of Paris

and Argentines might argue
twice as beautiful.

Each neighborhood
has its own flavor,

style, and story,
which we'll get to.

But we'll start at the center,

the Obelisk.

When it's not hosting
a wild soccer celebration,

it's still a central beacon
of the city.

Erected in 1936

to commemorate
the city's 400th birthday,

it's been a gathering spot

for almost
every major demonstration

and celebration since.

♪ ♪

Just two miles to the south,
a swath of green

marks the city's
original birth place.

At what is now Parque Lezama,
Conquistador Pedro de Mendoza

attempted to build the first
Spanish settlement in 1536.

Today, statues and plaques
in the park tell the story,

but it's not simple.

Mendoza and his 1500 men

were not
the first people here.

The Indigenous Querandíes
called this land home

and put up a fierce fight
to keep it.

They forced the Spanish

to abandon
their first settlement.

50 years later,
the Spanish returned,

and this time for good.

Argentina was a Spanish colony
for almost 200 years,

and the city boomed.

[mellow music]

Argentina finally gained
independence from Spain

in 1816,

and an influx
of other European cultures

began to shape an increasingly
cosmopolitan cityscape.

The British
built the first railroads,

changing the city
and country forever.

Opened in 1864,
Constitución Station

reflects the growing
and changing nation it served.

[train horns blasting]

Along its rail lines,
beef, grain,

and produce flowed
from the vast farmlands

to the port and on to Europe.

Starting with the railroad,

strong commercial ties
between Argentina and England

bound the two countries
together.

Three miles north,
British immigrants

commissioned
the English Tower.

All the materials
except sand and water

were imported from England

when construction started
in 1916.

The clock itself is a smaller
version of the famous Big Ben.

[bell tolling]

While English immigrants
helped build a robust economy,

the French changed the layout
of the city itself.

Influenced
by the French styles,

urban planners and architects

applied a Gallic sense
of flair and elegance

to almost every corner

and the city became known
as the Paris of the South.

♪ ♪

At one end of Avenida de Mayo,

the congressional palace

is the home
of the nation's legislature

and hearkens back
to ancient Greece and Rome,

reflecting the very roots
of European culture.

Its copper dome
rises 262 feet into the air,

built with the help
of European immigrants.

Coming in search of
opportunity

and a better life,

immigrants
from all over the world

made this emerging
global city their own.

They shaped Buenos Aires
neighborhood by neighborhood.

[upbeat accordion music]

And together,
they forged a singular culture

now symbolized
by a sultry dance:

the tango.

Born in the brothels of the
city's rougher neighborhoods,

the tango swept the world
off its feet.

Today, dancers Pablo Ugolini
and Casandra Quinteros

transform the pedestrian
street of Caminito

into a stage.

They are in La Boca,

a neighborhood
rich in immigrant heritage

and now a prime tourist draw.

The classic beat,
melancholy lyrics,

and the graceful tension
between accomplished dancers

have made the tango
a worldwide sensation.

The dance
even inspires architects.

Spaniard Santiago Calatrava

designed
this pedestrian bridge,

El Puente de la Mujer,

to mimic the fluidity
and sensuality of the tango.

No cars are allowed,
but dancing is.

Argentines still tango
every day

in the social gatherings
and clubs

that thrive in neighborhoods
throughout the city.

♪ ♪

[country rock music]

One of these neighborhoods

is the old port,
Puerto Madero,

that straddles
the pedestrian bridge.

This was once
the thriving center of trade,

a bustling port that defined
its people so much,

natives of Buenos Aires
are still called Porteños,

or "the people of the port."

But BA is also known as a city
that can reinvent itself.

The cranes of the old port
now sit idle,

but all around them,
the land has been transformed.

Puerto Madero
is still an economic center,

but now a 21st-century hustle
plays out

behind walls
of glass and steel.

Buenos Aires is connected to
the world by fiber optic cable

as much
as through shipping lanes.

And where cargo once docked,

there's an exclusive marina
filled with luxury sailboats.

The cranes
are now overshadowed

by more modern giants,

a string of skyscrapers
that house luxury apartments,

corporate offices,
and world-class hotels.

All this, past, present,
and future,

is packed into BA
block by block.

[sparse dramatic music]

And so are some of the world's
great religions.

The King Fahd
Islamic Cultural Center

stands on land donated
by the Argentine government

and includes the largest
mosque in South America.

♪ ♪

The Libertad Temple was the
first synagogue built here,

and now it serves
the largest Jewish population

in Latin America.

And while all religions
worship freely,

the wealth of churches
and cathedrals

reveal Argentina's predominant
faith, Catholicism.

More than 3/4
of the population is Catholic.

The mother church,
consecrated in 1791,

faces the Central Plaza
de Mayo.

This is the cathedral
of Buenos Aires.

It looks like a Greek temple,

but the bas relief
on the facade

shows
a classic Christian scene:

the meeting between Jacob
and his son Joseph in Egypt.

For 15 years,
Archbishop Jorge Bergoglio

led his flock
from this cathedral

until he accepted
a higher calling

and became Pope Francis.

[organ music,
choir vocalizing]

♪ ♪

[energetic percussive music]

In Argentina,
there's religion

and there's soccer.

And for some hardcore fans,
soccer is the religion.

These are its temples.

And there are many
to choose from

because Buenos Aires has 36
professional soccer stadiums,

the most of any city
in the world.

So many stadiums in town
that two fierce rivals

literally play next door
to each other.

[bright music]

♪ ♪

If soccer is a religion
in Argentina,

it has a patron saint:
Diego Maradona.

The cult of Maradona took root
at the Argentinos Juniors,

where he began
his professional career.

Long before he died in 2020,

Maradona was worshiped
across Argentina.

To commemorate their hero,
the Argentinos Juniors

commissioned artist
Victor Marley

to paint ten murals
on the stadium walls.

A huge fan himself,

Victor has spray-painted
Maradona murals

all over Buenos Aires.

[funky music]

But Argentine's true passion
is for the game itself,

not for the fancy stadiums
or flashy stars.

They play it
in just about any open space,

turning hardscrabble lots
into their own soccer palaces.

Given the chance, they'd play
it dawn to dusk.

Any of these kids could become

the next Argentinian
soccer hero.

[upbeat music]

But beyond Buenos Aires,

soccer fields give way
to pasture and cropland.

These are Argentina's
endless prairies

where people
still ride the range,

cattle is king,

and stories take shape

far from the city's
bright lights.

- In its wide-open spaces,
Argentina unfurls

with a stunning variety
of landscapes and cultures.

The Indigenous Quechua
called this region the Pampas,

which means flatland,

and the Spanish
didn't argue with that label.

True to its name,
it's really flat

for hundreds of miles
in every direction.

[soft upbeat music]

The Pampas extend
from the Atlantic coast

all the way
to the Sierras Pampeanas.

Covering more than
200,000 square miles,

it's larger than California.

And much of it is so flat,
you can travel for miles here

and never see so much
as a hill.

♪ ♪

This was once
an unbounded space

where the Querandí and other
Indigenous groups roamed.

But in the late 1800s,

the Argentine government
drove them from the land.

The Pampas was parceled
into farm fields and pastures

and became
Argentina's economic engine.

Fertile and productive,

it's known as the breadbasket
of the world.

[bright music]

Rich grasslands became pasture

to feed four-legged
newcomers: cattle.

A wide variety of breeds
have adapted to the Pampas,

but the iconic cow

is the black and white
Holando-Argentino.

Its image is used
to sell milk, butter,

and the Argentine dessert
dulce de leche.

In the early years
of cattle ranching,

wealthy Argentines

loved the Holando's
milk and butter so much,

they brought the cows
with them

when they traveled to France.

But when it comes to beef,

the sizzle belongs to
the Angus and the Hereford.

Argentine beef is considered
the highest quality

and is exported
around the world.

There are more than 50 million
head of cattle in Argentina,

outnumbering
the human population.

[cattle lowing]

And for every cow in a field,

there seems to be a grill
in a backyard.

Argentines love their beef.

They eat around 110 pounds
of beef per person each year,

making Argentines

the biggest consumers of beef
in the world.

The Argentine traditional dish
is asado,

or grilled meat.

[mellow guitar]

Another icon once wrangled
all these cattle:

the Argentine cowboy
known as the gaucho.

Rough and unruly,

they embody the untamed
frontier nature of the Pampas.

Stories and songs

romanticizing
the gaucho lifestyle

have become central
to Argentine identity.

But their way of life
is long gone.

Instead, reenactors put on
displays of riding prowess

in competitions known
as corridas de sortija.

These were medieval games

adapted to the gaucho
way of life.

Like jousting knights,
riders gallop at full speed

and try to spear a small ring
dangling from a string.

Another tradition
is the boleadoras,

a slingshot.

Gauchos adopted it
from Indigenous cultures.

Used as a weapon of war
and for wrangling cattle,

today, it survives
as a cultural touchstone

to celebrate
a historic way of life.

♪ ♪

The gaucho may be gone,

but the fortunes made
from ranching

still define the landscape.

This mansion was built in 1919

by one of Argentina's
cattle barons.

Called the Villa María

and inspired by
Tudor-style architecture,

it's surrounded by
almost 4,000 acres of land.

And this was just
the family's summer home.

Today, it's been
converted into a hotel,

but the clay cats
on its roof remain.

They are a holdover
from the French superstition

that such figurines will
bring good luck and fortune.

Clearly, it worked.

♪ ♪

Today, grand entrances
to these estates

lead to a pastime
of the wealthy

that has become
a national passion:

the game of polo.

This is the estate
of Adolfo Combiaso,

considered the best
polo player of all time.

English immigrants
brought polo to Argentina,

but the locals
got really good at it.

Like, championship good.

Argentine breeders
combine the hardiness

and stamina of a local horse
known as the Criollo

with the speed
of English thoroughbreds.

The result
is the ultimate polo pony:

fast, smart, agile, and tough.

Top mounts can cost
more than $100,000,

but that's a waste of money
without a top rider.

Argentinian polo players are
consistently the world's best.

Nine of the top ten ranked
players were born here.

They simply own polo.

♪ ♪

[upbeat music]

But the Pampas
is more than just open space.

Cities and towns define
the Argentinian heartland

from stunning architecture

to the humble origins
of a soccer hero.

[upbeat music]

- The Pampas region
of Argentina feeds the world.

It produces wheat, corn,
and sunflower,

but the reigning king
is the soybean.

The genetically-modified seeds
and more pest-resistant crops

transform these lands.

Argentina exports
more soybean meal and oil

than any other country.

And this export chain
begins with trucks.

♪ ♪

Thousands of trucks of all
sizes ride the roads daily.

Argentine truckers
live by their own code,

like modern-day gauchos,

and even have their own
patron saint: Gauchito Gil.

Based on a folk hero
similar to Robin Hood,

Gauchito Gil
looks out for the truckers

and they, in turn,

build him red roadside shrines
in thanks.

Most of these truckers
shuttle back and forth

almost nonstop
to one destination:

the city of Rosario.

The largest grain
transit center in the world,

Rosario is an inland port
on the Paraná River.

Trucks make nearly 2 million
round trips

in and out of Rosario
each year.

From here, goods are loaded
onto freighters

and shipped
all over the world.

When the port boomed
in the 1900s,

immigrants rushed in
for the steady work,

and Rosario earned
the nickname of Pampa Gringa,

or the European Pampas.

Now the city is a melting pot
of many different cultures.

People have come
from more than 35 countries

to put down roots
and grow with Rosario.

[peaceful music]

Rosario is also famous
for its deep patriotism.

This memorial embodies
the Argentine love of country

and commemorates
the Argentine flag.

Its blue and white colors

waved for the first time
here in 1812

on the shores
of the Paraná River.

Since then,
the country has changed,

but the flag has not.

The eternal flame
burns at its base,

marking the grave
of the Unknown Soldier,

a tribute to all
who fought for Argentina.

Words of the National Anthem

stand out in relief
from the walls,

and the 230-foot tower

memorializes
the nation's flag.

♪ ♪

But if the flag
unites Rosario,

soccer divides it.

On the north side of town,
Rosario Central.

Just three miles south,
Newell's Old Boys.

This team is one of
the founding members

of the Argentine
professional soccer leagues.

It's also where superstar
Lionel Messi got his start.

As a boy, Messi scored
an astounding 234 goals

for the Newell's Old Boys
youth teams.

But in need of
growth hormone treatment,

Messi moved to Europe
and there,

he became a giant of
the sport.

First with Barcelona

and then
with Paris Saint-Germain,

Messi has grown
into what many consider

the greatest living player,

a belief backed up
by his contract--

the richest
in the history of sports.

Muralists Marlene Zuriaga
and Lisandro Urteaga

painted
this 230-foot-high portrait

showing Messi in the Argentine
national team's jersey.

Lisandro
is Messi's childhood friend.

He and Marlene took 18 days
to paint this tribute.

It portrays Messi
with his hand over his heart

and his eyes
gazing over the city

he still considers
his hometown.

[mellow rock chords]

♪ ♪

The heart, soul, and lifeblood
of Rosario

is the Paraná River.

Sailing clubs compete here
almost every day.

Its shores
are lined with beaches,

and old industrial buildings

have been converted to museums
and open spaces.

One is the renowned MACBA,
or Museum of Contemporary Art.

Reflecting the importance
of agriculture,

the museum is housed
in abandoned grain silos.

But Rosario, above all,
is a transportation hub.

The Rosario-Victoria Bridge

links the city to an
international highway system

that runs from Brazil
all the way down to Chile.

The main bridge
across the Paraná

is an engineering wonder.

Built on 650 pilings
and spanning 2 and 1/2 miles,

the bridge
has to be tall enough

to allow freighters
to pass beneath

because the river is still
a major economic thoroughfare.

♪ ♪

Leaving Rosario on the Paraná
River is the next journey,

and it connects Argentina's
past and future.

[upbeat music]

- The Paraná River is
the central shipping channel

in a vast interconnected
series of waterways.

The Paraná
runs for 2,000 miles

from Southern Brazil,

divides Paraguay
and Argentina,

then flows through the Pampas
to the Río de la Plata,

just north of Buenos Aires.

The Paraná is the longest
river in Argentina

and the second-longest
in South America

behind only the Amazon.

In the Indigenous
Tupi language,

Paraná means
as big as the sea,

and its muddy brown waters

have always been
a money magnet.

[soft dramatic music]

400 years ago,

countless conquistadores
searched along these banks

for a mythical city of gold.

They never found it.

But today,

the treasure is in
the transportation business.

Roughly 4,000 barges and ships
travel the river each year,

carrying billions
of dollars in goods,

but the river that gives
can also take away.

You should think twice
before swimming in the Paraná.

Palometas,
a small type of piranha fish,

has been known to take off
swimmer's fingers and toes,

so maybe not the best place
to go skinny dipping.

[bluesy guitar]

♪ ♪

At the end of the Paraná River

where it reaches
the Río de la Plata,

its waters divide and
spread into the Tigre Delta,

splitting again and again.

The channels carve
and form fantastic shapes.

More than 350 waterways

make up this delta
of 5,000 square miles.

As the water slows,
sediment drops to the bottom,

gradually building up
and creating new islands.

High humidity and rain
produce thick vegetation

and an intense green hue.

The delta is named Tigre,
Spanish for tiger.

But unless
these feared predators

have changed their stripes,

what actually prowled
these islands were jaguars.

♪ ♪

Now, this land has been tamed.

The Tigre Delta

borders the northern fringes
of Buenos Aires

and Porteños
flock here on weekends.

And the closer
you get to the city,

the more crowded it becomes.

Water taxis
jockey with leisure craft

out for the maritime
equivalent of a Sunday drive.

There are even mini-mansions
and art museums.

But others flock to the water
for a good workout.

Rowing is a passion
for many Porteños.

These waters have funneled
a long line

of successful rowers and
sailors onto the world stage.

Argentina has won a medal
in water sports

at six consecutive games
since the 1996 Olympics.

[soft dramatic music]

♪ ♪

As the Tigre Delta gives way
to the Río de la Plata,

the scene broadens,
and the water appears to glow.

♪ ♪

The river's name
translates to River of Silver.

Maybe they should have
called it River of the Wind.

♪ ♪

Windsurfers have long flocked
to this windy river.

But now it's become
a major draw for a new sport:

kite surfing.

And there is plenty of room
for everyone,

including paddleborders.

They create a kind
of watersport variety show.

From here, it doesn't even
look like a river.

It's so wide, you can't see
the other bank.

This playground of wind
and water just never stops.

People are always thinking up
new ways to sail and splash.

But there's a place nearby
that was just as vibrant

until one very bad day.

[quiet music]

♪ ♪

100 miles south
on a saltwater lake,

one vibrant town
met disaster in a flash.

Villa Epecuén
was an elegant spa

catering to wealthy Porteños.

But in 1985, a dam broke,

sinking the town
under 30 feet of water.

Everyone escaped alive,

but 1,500 people
lost their homes.

It took 25 years
for the waters to recede,

and the town's remains
finally resurfaced.

An old slaughterhouse
symbolizes

how Epecuén
has been left a ruin...

and old memories
now look like nightmares.

It stands empty and abandoned
except to serve occasionally

as a backdrop
for a music video

or a movie set.

All that is left today

is a shadow
of the town's former glory.

[energetic music]

The tragedy of Epecuén is far
from the minds of vacationers

350 miles to the east
on the Atlantic coast.

It always seems to be sunny
in Mar del Plata.

Starting in the 1880s,

it was a vacation hotspot
for Argentina's elite.

The casino
and the Provincial Hotel

fancy themselves
to be on the same standing

as Europe's
swankiest seaside resorts,

and among them, an adaptation
of the Parisian Place Vendôme.

Anyone outside the upper class
was excluded.

But Argentine attitudes
and politics

changed in the 1940s and '50s.

Social reformers demanded
equal rights and privileges

for all citizens.

No longer excluded,
millions of Argentines

flock to Mar Del Plata
for their holidays.

The city boomed
with new hotels

and apartment buildings
lining streets

leading to the beaches.

Almost every visitor
checks out

the picture-postcard scene

at Mar Del Plata's
old harbor

with sunbathing sea lions

and picturesque
yellow fishing boats.

But these boats
aren't just for show.

When they sail from this port,

the smaller ones
stick close to shore

and trawl some of the world's
richest fisheries,

landing everything
from sea bass to squid.

Larger red trawlers

venture as far as 100 miles
from the coast.

While the rest of
Mar Del Plata

gets ready for bed,
these ships go to work.

They'll head to
the fishing grounds

and spend days
out on the open ocean,

helping to feed a nation
on the move.

♪ ♪

As the sun sets,

the river keeps flowing
toward Buenos Aires

and the city
will shift into a new gear.

In the darkness,
it will create its own light

and reveal
the pulse of Argentina.

[upbeat music]

- All roads and rivers
in the Pampas

seem to lead back
to the country's capital,

Buenos Aires.

Built on the shores
of the Río de la Plata,

it almost looks like
the city has turned its back

on the waterfront,

but there are places
that face the water

and face a dark chapter
in Argentina's history.

[somber]

The Parque de la Memoria
is a memorial

to those who disappeared
during a military dictatorship

that ruled from 1976 to 1983.

As many as 30,000 Argentines
were killed

in political violence.

Some were even dropped out
of planes into this river

and left to drown.

And one lone figure
stands on a floating pedestal

looking out over the river,

a symbol of both
the innocence lost

and the need to never forget.

The model was a 14-year-old
named Pablo Míguez

who witnessed the military
kidnap his mother.

Soon after,
he was also snatched away,

and there's no record
of his fate.

Collectively, these men,
women, and children

are known as The Disappeared.

♪ ♪

The memory of resistance
to the military dictators

has left its mark
throughout the city.

♪ ♪

Today in the Plaza de Mayo,

white headscarves
are painted in a circle

around the central pyramid.

This is where the mothers
of The Disappeared

met every Thursday

to share any news
of their missing loved ones.

Political demonstrations
were banned,

so the women simply
walked in circles

in a passive yet powerful
symbol of resistance,

and each wore a white scarf.

♪ ♪

Women have often played
a central role

in Argentine politics,

and no figure stands taller
than this one.

Her full name was
María Eva Duarte de Perón,

but to millions,
she is known simply as Evita.

Her portrait still adorns

the Ministry
of Social Development.

In the 1940s and early 1950s,

Evita served as first lady
when her husband,

Juan Domingo Perón,
was president.

A champion of the poor,

Evita was loved
by the lower classes.

[dramatic music]

From her office in the old
post office building,

she fought to promote
equal rights

for the downtrodden
and for women.

Today, the building
has been converted into

South America's
largest cultural center.

Evita broke down barriers
and in the process

created a cult of personality
that endures to this day.

On a balcony of
the presidential residence

known as the Casa Rosada,
Evita solidified her legacy.

Here, she gave
her most fiery speeches

to crowds of loyalists

whom she fondly called
the descamisados,

or the shirtless.

It was also on this balcony
that Madonna sang

"Don't Cry For Me Argentina"
in the movie "Evita."

But on July 26, 1952,

millions of Argentines
did cry for Evita

when she died of cancer.

She was just 33 years old.

The woman who rose
from humble roots

was interred in the cemetery

previously reserved for the
nation's wealthy and elite.

This is her resting place
in a family mausoleum

that is now
a solemn tourist destination.

[solemn music]

♪ ♪

[upbeat music]

Across town in Puerto Madero,
other women trailblazers

are honored
in a uniquely modern way.

Every street
in this neighborhood

is named for a female artist,
scientist,

politician, or social leader.

Some of these women
inspired a movement in 2015

called "Ni Una Menos,"
or "not one woman less."

It is an ongoing effort
to combat sexual harassment

and violence against women.

Starting in Argentina,

the movement has spread across
Latin America and Spain.

It has also inspired artwork
throughout the city.

A painting on one building
boldly declares,

"Women, equality, independence

pleasure, and power."

Many other murals portray
women's collective identity,

like this one
by artist Mariela Ajras.

Ajras also joined forces
with the artists

Mariano Antedomenico
and Martin Ron

to paint three murals
on the Hospital de Clínicas

of the University
of Buenos Aires.

♪ ♪

The University
of Buenos Aires,

known locally as UBA,

has campuses
all over the city.

It just turned 200 years old

and was recently ranked
the best institution

of higher learning
in Latin America.

This ranking placed it
in the top 1%

of the world's universities.

Students study hard
but can't resist a break

on the sunny steps
of the main law school.

[upbeat music]

The university encourages
students to bloom

and in the springtime, all of
Buenos Aires seems to join in.

There are more than
250 parks in the city.

Porteños by the thousands
gather in these green spaces.

One of them
is the city's largest park

known as Los Bosques
de Palermo.

It covers almost
1.4 square miles

and has extensive gardens
with over 8,000 rose bushes.

During October and November,
the city's Jacaranda trees

explode in bursts
of purple flowers.

The annual show put on
by 19,000 Jacaranda trees

is considered part of
the BA's seasonal rhythm.

In the late 1800s,
landscape artist Carlos Thays

imported the Jacarandas
from Northwest Argentina.

His work helped
bring cool shade

and treelined streets

to a city that
once baked in the sun.

[festive music]

♪ ♪

Avoiding this daytime heat
may be why

the capital city seems
to light up as night falls.

The same obelisk
that was a gathering point

to celebrate
the Copa America victory

is set aglow in the dark,

beckoning Porteños
into the streets

for BA's true calling card:
a vibrant nightlife.

♪ ♪

The rhythms of the city change
and become up-tempo.

Running east to west
through the city,

Corrientes Avenue is called
the street that never sleeps.

Whatever you want to do,
no matter what the time,

you can probably find it here.

For culture vultures,

this is a city
of over 300 theaters,

more than Paris.

Here, diners have endless
choices of restaurants.

And there's even a late-night
venue for bookworms.

The Ateneo Grand Splendid,
housed in a former theater,

is considered one of the most
beautiful bookstores

in the world.

♪ ♪

The nightlife carries on
well beyond downtown.

The old neighborhood
of Palermo

has been transformed

by trendy stores, bars,
and restaurants.

Famed author Jorge Luis Borges
grew up here,

and his books described
the rough and rowdy locals.

But today a hip young crowd

cruises
its cobblestone streets

and gangs of ruffians
are a distant memory.

Like so much else in this
dynamic, ever-changing city,

nothing stays the same
for long.

♪ ♪

In BA, the nights seem
to go on forever.

If you have a bedtime,

you're gonna miss
Argentina's best side.

The city has timeless beauty,
but also restless energy.

Good luck trying to
pin it down to any one thing.

Take a stroll, turn a corner,

and another facet
of this country

lights up in front of you.

Argentina doesn't disappoint.

It just keeps luring you in
for more.