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today I'm going to build a Moxon base
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using this kit that you can purchase for
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under $40 this kit comes with everything
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that you need to build a quality Moxon
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vise it also comes with a set of
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instructions and the only thing that you
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need to provide yourself is some wood
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you can use any kind of wood that you
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have so I'm gonna go look at my lumber
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stack and see what I have to work with
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all right let's see if this boards gonna
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work the instructions that came with the
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hardware suggested that the front jaw be
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23 and a half inches wide and then the
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backdoor is going to have two tabs that
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are going to be used for clamping and
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each one of those tabs is three inches
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long so that's an added six inches onto
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the back piece so that's twenty nine and
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a half oh yeah alright
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so I have an inch and a quarter leftover
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from this board perfect-sized gonna go
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clean it up now
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[Music]
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before trimming these pieces to final
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width I'm just going to join one edge it
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looks like it's been jointed already but
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when I run my square along the edge
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there's light shining through all over
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the place I don't have a jointer so I
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used my tapering jig and I just clamp it
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so that I feel a little bit running
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along the edge of the jig here and when
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I do such thick material on this jig I
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just have to put a little spacer or
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riser block on the back of these clamps
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to create the perfect leverage for these
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clamps all right now I'm just gonna
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clean this up now that I have one edge
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that is completely square I can use it
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to reference against the fence of the
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table saw and clean up the other edge
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and get this to final with the
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instructions suggest at least four
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inches and this is really just up to you
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kind of depends how tall you are or how
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tall your workbench is there's really
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just no set rule here just do what feels
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good to you the pieces are now ready for
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some layout lines for the holes for the
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hardware so the first thing to do is
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find the center of the boards these are
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4 inches wide so 2 inches is the center
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going to mark that on either end of the
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front jaw now the instructions say to
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mark two and 3/8 in from the ends of
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just the front jaws now it's going to be
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really important that the front jaw and
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back job line up correctly so in order
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to make sure that these two holes are
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going to line up I'm going to just
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transfer this two and 3/8 inch mark from
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the front jaw onto the back jaw by
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lining up these pieces making sure
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there's the correct amount of overhang
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so I know that I left over three inches
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on either side
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and I'll take my combo square again I'm
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going to line it up on that two and
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three eighths inch mark that I had just
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put out there on the front fence line it
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up and bring it across onto the back jaw
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I'll do that on both ends
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all right so oh I didn't find the center
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of this yet but it's easy just two
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inches all right so now these holes are
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going to line up and the reason why I'm
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doing it this way is because the front
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jaw is actually not going to have a
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round hole it's going to have an oval
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hole so I'm gonna take that two and
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three eighths inch mark of it I drew out
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there and I'm going to mark a quarter
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inch on either end of that mark right on
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the center line and I'll do that on both
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ends now these two marks are where I'm
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going to drill out my holes to create
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the oval hole for the front and jaw are
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you seeing a really dull bit and it's
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burning like crazy
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I moved the board over to that second
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quarter inch line that was off of the
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original two and three eighths line that
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I had made and now I'll just drill bit
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out elongating the hole now I'll just
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use a chisel to clean up those two
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pointy parts to create the oval
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before moving on let me just do a test
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and see if everything is fitting nicely
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a little hung up one second all right
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perfect
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all right so this is why I had to mark
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out the lines on the back jaw earlier
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because I can't really use these ovals
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as a reference now for where to drill
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the corresponding holes so that's why
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you have to do that step earlier on all
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right now I'm going to drill out the
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back door
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I want to recess this nut on the inside
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face of the rear jaw so I'm going to use
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a one inch Forstner bit and I'm going to
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go just slightly deeper than the
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thickness of this nut so that it will be
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fully recessed into the board and what
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is the difference between a sharp bit
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and a dull one this is a bigger bed it's
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one inches over 3/4 inches and it's
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super clean I gotta get a new 3/4 inch
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Forstner bit or at least figure out a
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way to sharpen it now I have to swap
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back out to that dull 3/4 inch bit so
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that I could drill all the way through
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and finish up the holes
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so the hole is drilled all the way
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through there's a 3/4 inch hole that's
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all the way through and a one-inch
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recessed hole over here in order to
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recess the bolt fully into there just
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going to put the bolt on here drop this
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down into the hole and I'm going to
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scribe around the nut
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all the hard parts are done and now just
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to add a few small little details on the
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front jaw I want to cut a bevel in the
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top front and that is so when I'm
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actually using the vise when I'm using a
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saw cutting this way this is the front
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the the jaws just won't get in the way
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of my tools so I just set this to a
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random angle and a distance
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that looked okay to me gonna cut it away
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that bevel looks pretty sweet now so the
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way that the vise works is that you
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clamp the back draw on to your worktable
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after you install all the hardware
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obviously and if you leave the
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extensions like this your clamps might
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get in the way of your work so there are
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a few ways to fix that you can either
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drill some holes in the extensions and
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that way you can put clamps through the
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holes or I'm going to just cut away at a
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little section over here to create some
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room for the clamp heads
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I couldn't raise the table saw blade
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high enough to finish up that cut so
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I'll just finish the cut with a handsaw
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a mocks and vise would really come in
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handy for client thinking this piece
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right now
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[Laughter]
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before I can install the hardware the
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instructions say that I need to clean
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them with denatured alcohol the
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instructions also mention that all the
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parts are made from untreated steel
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which means that they could possibly
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rust so they suggest using a rust
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inhibitor I am a huge fan of the
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specialist line from wd-40 specifically
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this long-term corrosion inhibitor
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simply spray on any metal parts and they
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will be protected from rust and
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corrosion for up to a year if left
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outdoors or two years indoors if
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humidity is an issue in your garage like
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behind this long-term corrosion
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inhibitor is a great solution to keeping
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your tools rust free everything is nice
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and coated now so it's time to install
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the hardware the holes that I made that
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fit the nuts in the back dog go on the
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inside face so I'll just thread this
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onto here just a little bit and set it
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into place now I'll keep screwing it
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until it comes out through the back then
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lock it into place with a washer and
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another nut and I'll just repeat the
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same thing to the other side in order to
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use the vise correctly you want to make
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sure that you're aligning it with the
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edge of your workbench because if it was
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pushed forward you wouldn't be able to
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clamp in at all workpiece so this needs
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to be completely flush so that way you
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can clamped all pieces so there are a
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few ways that you can do this I think
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that it might be an interesting and cool
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way to put on these little tabs onto
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here that you could just push it and it
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quickly references the edge of the
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workbench so I'm just gonna go and screw
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those on
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I just ended the tabs to shape and I
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broke all the edges just to make
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everything smooth and now I'm going to
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finish them up with some Danish oil so
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they say not to put any finish on the
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inside to maximize the gripping power of
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the vise so I will just apply it on the
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outside all right finally time to
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assemble it all first we're gonna just
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drawn these tabs I drilled oversized
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holes in them so that the screws will go
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through it and that way I could turn
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them and lift them out of the way in
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case I ever need to so it's tight enough
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so that it will have a positive stop
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against here but it's loose enough that
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I can fold them out of the way
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in case for some reason I ever need them
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out of the way
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before putting on the front jaw I'll
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just clamp it down so that it doesn't
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tip over and I'm actually going to leave
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the inside of the jaws bare for now I'm
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not going to put on any leather or
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rubber I know it's something that some
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people put on inside I'm going to see
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how it works without it now put on the
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front jaw washers and the knobs so why
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use a Moxon vise so this is the reason
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why I wanted to build one so when I was
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cutting dovetails I needed to have a
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good way to clamp boards vertically and
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a Moxon vise is a great tool to do that
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I know this is a short piece but you can
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have longer pieces going all the way
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down so if you're sawing this way in the
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end of a board this is an amazing way to
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hold a piece vertically like this
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another reason why I needed a Moxon vice
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was an easy way to clamp angled
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materials like tapered legs or something
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so there was one time where I was
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planing down a tapered leg and I
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couldn't find a good way to clamp it
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down while planing it so I don't know if
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you could see the angle really here this
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is just a scrap piece of ash but I just
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imagine that this is a table leg there
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is an angle to it so because the front
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jaw has the ovals in the front but the
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jaw couldn't like twist side to side so
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you can clamp angled pieces in here
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which makes it really easy and the
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workpiece holds super tight and then he
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could just plane away even though the
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pieces angled and not straight so I hope
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that this was helpful for some of you
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guys out there I'll put a link down to
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this hardware kick down below this
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wasn't sponsored or anything I just
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thought this would be helpful for people
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who were looking to get an affordable
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quality Moxon vise so thank you to wd-40
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for sponsoring this video and thank you
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guys so much for watching I'll see you
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on the next one today I'm going to build
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a Moxon vise
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using this kit that you can purchase for
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under and that might help with the
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clamping pressure goes up my kids on the
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bus what time is it19692
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