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[TUCCI] I have driven
in Italy quite a bit.
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00:00:09,748 --> 00:00:11,576
But I did say to one guy
when I was doing a movie,
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00:00:11,620 --> 00:00:13,752
I said, "It's very interesting,
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00:00:13,796 --> 00:00:15,711
people don'’t really stop
at stop lights that much."
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00:00:15,754 --> 00:00:17,234
And he goes, "No, no, no.
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The stop light is
just a suggestion."
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There's nowhere on Earth
quite like Tuscany.
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The land is idyllic,
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00:00:29,551 --> 00:00:31,422
the art is divine
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00:00:31,466 --> 00:00:34,512
and the food is out
of this world.
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00:00:34,556 --> 00:00:36,079
[TUCCI] Oh my god.
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It just melts in your mouth.
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00:00:37,472 --> 00:00:38,603
[LAUGHS]
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00:00:38,647 --> 00:00:40,649
I'm Stanley Tucci,
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00:00:40,692 --> 00:00:42,651
I'm fascinated
by my Italian heritage.
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00:00:42,694 --> 00:00:44,957
So, I'm traveling across Italy
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00:00:45,001 --> 00:00:46,611
to discover how the food,
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00:00:46,655 --> 00:00:48,483
in each of this country's
twenty regions,
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00:00:48,526 --> 00:00:51,007
is as unique
as the people and their past.
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00:00:56,099 --> 00:00:59,015
The creations of famous Tuscans
are known the world over.
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Michelangelo, I think if he were
to come back today, he'd be able
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00:01:01,409 --> 00:01:03,976
to walk around Florence.
It hasn'’t changed.
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00:01:04,020 --> 00:01:05,891
But it's the hands
of the ordinary people...
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00:01:05,935 --> 00:01:07,980
[Chef] We fold it like this.
25
00:01:08,024 --> 00:01:10,940
...that have crafted
the incredible food here.
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00:01:10,983 --> 00:01:14,335
It's like a Christmas
in your mouth, yeah.
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00:01:14,378 --> 00:01:18,121
This is a place built
on human ingenuity,
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00:01:18,165 --> 00:01:23,692
mind-boggling riches
and an insane amount of bread.
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I really don'’t know how
they eat this much bread.
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It's delicious but so hot.
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All great love affairs
start somewhere.
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And for me...
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00:02:00,598 --> 00:02:03,340
my love of Italy started
right here, in Florence,
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00:02:03,384 --> 00:02:06,169
when I was just 12 years old.
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00:02:06,213 --> 00:02:07,692
That's delicious.
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00:02:07,736 --> 00:02:09,694
You have to taste that.
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00:02:09,738 --> 00:02:12,306
Like this tartlet filled with
rice pudding, I mean, come on.
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00:02:12,349 --> 00:02:14,090
There'’s always
something wonderful
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00:02:14,134 --> 00:02:15,352
to discover in Florence.
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00:02:17,572 --> 00:02:20,531
The city is the capital
of Tuscany.
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00:02:20,575 --> 00:02:22,968
500 years ago,
it was the playground
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00:02:23,012 --> 00:02:26,407
of some of the richest
families on Earth.
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00:02:26,450 --> 00:02:27,973
In the countryside,
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they used their land
to cultivate
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the finest produce and cattle
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00:02:32,413 --> 00:02:34,632
And in the city they bankrolled
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00:02:34,676 --> 00:02:36,982
the incredible
explosion of art,
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00:02:37,026 --> 00:02:41,291
science and architecture
known as the Renaissance.
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00:02:41,335 --> 00:02:43,554
I love that just about
everywhere you turn
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00:02:43,598 --> 00:02:47,558
there'’s something incredible to
see.
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00:02:47,602 --> 00:02:50,082
The chance to actually
live among these treasures,
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00:02:50,126 --> 00:02:52,215
even just for a year,
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00:02:52,259 --> 00:02:55,523
lured a young family from
suburban New York to Florence
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00:02:55,566 --> 00:02:57,699
nearly 50 years ago.
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00:02:57,742 --> 00:02:59,701
It seems that no matter
where you are,
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00:02:59,744 --> 00:03:01,877
you can always see
that Duomo.
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00:03:01,920 --> 00:03:03,008
My family.
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00:03:04,967 --> 00:03:07,926
Meet Joan and Stan Tucci.
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00:03:07,970 --> 00:03:10,451
[STAN] I have a photograph
of this, do you remember?
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00:03:10,494 --> 00:03:12,061
Back in 1972 we moved here
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00:03:12,104 --> 00:03:14,803
because my dad was
a high school art teacher
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taking a year off
to follow his dream.
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00:03:16,718 --> 00:03:19,199
-[STAN] Oh my Lord.
-[TUCCI] That's unbelievable.
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-[STAN] All that foreshortening.
-[TUCCI] I know.
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-[STAN] How incredible is that?
-That's incredible.
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My Dad came to study figure
drawing and sculpture here.
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[TUCCI] Look at it, when you
really look
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and you see that perspective,
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-I can't see that far.
-It's staggering.
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-It hurts my neck.
-Does it?
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00:03:35,302 --> 00:03:36,607
-Yeah.
-Lay down.
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[LAUGHS]
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At nearly 400 feet,
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00:03:39,654 --> 00:03:42,396
the Duomo is still the tallest
structure in Florence.
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00:03:42,439 --> 00:03:44,049
It took 16 years to build,
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00:03:44,093 --> 00:03:45,834
and to hurry things along,
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the genius architect,
Brunelleschi,
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came up with a way
to slash lunch breaks.
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The workmen,
when they were building this,
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guys had to come down
and make their lunch,
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they would lose all this time.
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So he found out what
they were cooking
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and he put ovens
up there
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00:04:01,241 --> 00:04:04,418
and he would just cook up there,
make their lunch up there.
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00:04:04,461 --> 00:04:08,204
-That doesn'’t sound... Really?
-Supposedly.
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00:04:08,248 --> 00:04:10,293
Money was tight
on our year abroad,
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00:04:10,337 --> 00:04:14,471
so our family lived in slightly
less grandeur than this...
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This is a lot cleaner than
it used to be.
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00:04:20,347 --> 00:04:22,262
It'’s very clean.
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00:04:22,305 --> 00:04:24,699
...just north of the city
center, in this building.
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Not the whole thing,
you understand.
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[TUCCI] So our apartment was
those four windows?
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One, two, three, four?
That was us
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-on the end there, right?
-Yeah.
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[JOAN] It was nice.
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-[TUCCI] You'd never traveled.
-[JOAN] No.
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My parents, you know,
mom and pop, said,
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"Why are you going?"
You know.
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Your parents, who
came from Italy?
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00:04:43,370 --> 00:04:45,328
Who came from Italy
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-It was Florence, not Colobraro.
-Didn'’t want you to go to Italy.
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But it worked out.
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It was fun.
-I think everybody ended up
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00:04:50,638 --> 00:04:52,814
getting a great deal out of it.
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00:04:52,857 --> 00:04:55,382
I came for sculpture,
certainly Joan,
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with all the food, cooking...
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00:04:57,471 --> 00:04:59,255
-It changed everything.
-It changed everything.
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00:04:59,299 --> 00:05:00,822
-It changed everything
for me, certainly.
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00:05:03,738 --> 00:05:05,870
While my father
was studying art,
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00:05:05,914 --> 00:05:08,264
my mom was studying something
just as beautiful,
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00:05:08,308 --> 00:05:10,092
the local cuisine.
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One of these because
it'’s so big?
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No, a little more.
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Little more.
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It didn'’t know how to cook
when we got married.
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Didn't even know
how to boil water.
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While she was here,
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my mother was also inspired by
the spirit of the Renaissance
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and set out to discover
the art of Italian cooking.
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When we lived in Florence
when everyone was in school,
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00:05:32,244 --> 00:05:36,118
I would learn to make
different recipes. I loved it.
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00:05:36,161 --> 00:05:37,815
My mother soon found the key
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00:05:37,859 --> 00:05:40,383
that unlocks so much
of Italian cooking.
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00:05:40,427 --> 00:05:44,256
A simple combination of
carrots, celery, and onions.
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00:05:44,300 --> 00:05:48,173
Fried up together,
it'’s called the soffritto.
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00:05:48,217 --> 00:05:49,697
[JOAN] Looking good,
what do you think, Stan?
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00:05:49,740 --> 00:05:50,872
[TUCCI] Yeah, it's good.
128
00:05:50,915 --> 00:05:52,526
[JOAN] Throw the tomato in?
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00:05:52,569 --> 00:05:54,789
It'’s the base of countless
Italian dishes,
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00:05:54,832 --> 00:05:56,312
including today'’s offering.
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A Tucci family favorite called
Salsa Maria Rosa.
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00:06:01,361 --> 00:06:02,884
[TUCCI] Now, put some
water in it.
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00:06:02,927 --> 00:06:04,407
[JOAN] Put some water
in it, yeah.
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00:06:04,451 --> 00:06:06,235
It'’s a delicious
vegetable sauce
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00:06:06,278 --> 00:06:07,410
and we named it after
a beloved neighbor
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00:06:07,454 --> 00:06:09,281
here in Florence,
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who showed mom how to
make it all those years ago.
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In the fine tradition
of Tuscan home cooking,
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00:06:14,025 --> 00:06:17,333
it'’s cheap, nutritious
and full of tomato.
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00:06:17,377 --> 00:06:19,640
-[TUCCI] I make it quite often.
-[JOAN] Do you? Yeah.
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00:06:19,683 --> 00:06:21,729
[TUCCI] Of course, yeah.
The kids love it.
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00:06:21,772 --> 00:06:23,687
But here'’s the thing,
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00:06:23,731 --> 00:06:26,951
every time my mother comes
to visit, which is too often.
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00:06:26,995 --> 00:06:28,736
-Alright.
-Alright, anyway.
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I always go, "Can you
show me how to make this?",
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but mine still doesn'’t turn out
the way hers turns out.
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I don'’t get it.
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-I think that's it, Stan.
-I think we did it.
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[JOAN] We did it.
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00:06:40,312 --> 00:06:41,444
-We did it.
-Nice.
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[TUCCI] There we go.
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[JOAN] It'’s nice to have help.
I love it, it'’s fun.
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That's my hobby.
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00:06:47,972 --> 00:06:50,845
But I don'’t have anyone
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00:06:50,888 --> 00:06:53,369
to cook for anymore.
I miss my grandchildren.
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00:06:53,413 --> 00:06:55,327
Oh don'’t, don't.
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00:06:55,371 --> 00:06:59,723
But you could move to England.
If this series does well...
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00:06:59,767 --> 00:07:01,856
-If this series does well.
-Which series?
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00:07:01,899 --> 00:07:03,684
The one we'’re shooting
right now.
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00:07:03,727 --> 00:07:05,337
I got news for ya.
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[LAUGHS]
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The time we shared in Florence
changed everything for us.
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-Finally, you're here.
-Yes.
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00:07:15,260 --> 00:07:18,133
After a year spent in the
home of the Renaissance,
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we returned to America
as a family reborn.
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It'’s so delicate,
this sauce too, isn'’t it?
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You smell the sweetness
of the carrot and the butter.
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Our eyes had been opened
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to some of the
greatest treasures on Earth
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and some pretty good food too.
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It's so good.
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For me, it was the start
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of a lifelong love affair
with Italy.
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-Cheers.
-Cheers.
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00:07:43,724 --> 00:07:45,073
Thank you,
thank you.
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-To Florence.
-Thank you, cheers.
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00:08:00,871 --> 00:08:04,092
There'’s a family whose name
hangs over this region
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like the hot Tuscan sun.
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00:08:06,573 --> 00:08:08,966
Their astonishing wealth
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00:08:09,010 --> 00:08:11,273
made them one of the most
powerful families
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00:08:11,316 --> 00:08:13,405
on Earth
back in the 1500s.
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They practically bankrolled
the Renaissance,
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paying for artists
and scientists
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like Michelangelo and Galileo
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to remake the world.
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[TUCCI] How many days
a week are you here?
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They are the Medici.
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00:08:30,684 --> 00:08:32,250
So come in.
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00:08:32,294 --> 00:08:33,948
And I'm going to meet
one of them.
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You are in a place
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00:08:37,081 --> 00:08:39,823
that the Florentines call
'‘The Casino de Medici'’.
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00:08:39,867 --> 00:08:43,044
And this is a place created
as a scientific laboratory
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the Medici wanted all the
bright minds in Europe
194
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to come here
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and to create new things
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00:08:49,137 --> 00:08:52,488
and to experiment with science,
with the arts,
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with food, with spices.
198
00:08:54,229 --> 00:08:56,013
So it was like you say
a think tank.
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00:08:56,057 --> 00:08:57,275
A think tank.
200
00:08:57,319 --> 00:08:59,408
-Or a taste tank.
-Exactly.
201
00:08:59,451 --> 00:09:01,584
Expert Art Restorer,
Daniela Murphy,
202
00:09:01,628 --> 00:09:03,630
is sneaking me in
for an audience
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00:09:03,673 --> 00:09:06,589
with the most powerful
Medici of them all.
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00:09:06,633 --> 00:09:09,070
-Where is he?
-He's right, right there.
205
00:09:09,113 --> 00:09:10,419
Oh my.
206
00:09:10,462 --> 00:09:12,900
Meet Cosimo Primo de Medici.
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00:09:12,943 --> 00:09:15,511
He led the family at their
dizzying height
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00:09:15,555 --> 00:09:17,295
in the 1500s.
209
00:09:17,339 --> 00:09:20,037
In this fresco,
undergoing restoration,
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00:09:20,081 --> 00:09:21,865
he'’s become so powerful
211
00:09:21,909 --> 00:09:25,086
he'’s being crowned
Grand Duke of Tuscany
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00:09:25,129 --> 00:09:26,566
by the Pope himself
213
00:09:26,609 --> 00:09:29,177
He marries an extremely
wealthy woman,
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00:09:29,220 --> 00:09:31,875
the Spanish princess'
Eleanor de Toledo.
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00:09:31,919 --> 00:09:33,964
Not only does she bring
a lot of money
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00:09:34,008 --> 00:09:36,619
but she brings a lot of the new
spices from the New World.
217
00:09:36,663 --> 00:09:38,186
The chocolates, the coffee,
218
00:09:41,711 --> 00:09:43,539
Everything that is the cuisine.
219
00:09:43,583 --> 00:09:45,672
That'’s when the tomato arrived?
220
00:09:45,715 --> 00:09:49,110
That's when it arrives
more or less in that era then.
221
00:09:49,153 --> 00:09:50,894
Which completely
altered Italian...
222
00:09:50,938 --> 00:09:52,243
Completely.
223
00:09:52,287 --> 00:09:53,810
-Completely.
-...cuisine
224
00:09:56,987 --> 00:10:00,164
Medici money cultivated this
city, and the arts
225
00:10:00,208 --> 00:10:03,341
and the ideas that grew here
in the Renaissance
226
00:10:03,385 --> 00:10:07,171
changed how we all
see the world.
227
00:10:07,215 --> 00:10:10,174
But this family also changed
the way things taste.
228
00:10:10,218 --> 00:10:12,873
It may seem a long way
from Michelangelo
229
00:10:12,916 --> 00:10:15,963
to the greatest T-bone steak
you'’ve ever eaten,
230
00:10:16,006 --> 00:10:18,879
but the Medici
had a hand in that too.
231
00:10:18,922 --> 00:10:20,794
Secret.
232
00:10:20,837 --> 00:10:22,622
Fabio Picchi may look
233
00:10:22,665 --> 00:10:25,015
like he'’s fallen out of
a Renaissance painting,
234
00:10:25,059 --> 00:10:27,452
but he'’s actually
a renowned chef,
235
00:10:27,496 --> 00:10:29,411
a born and bred Florentine,
236
00:10:29,454 --> 00:10:32,022
and a master of meat.
237
00:10:42,163 --> 00:10:43,904
Back in the 1500s
238
00:10:43,947 --> 00:10:45,557
most people wouldn'’t even
get close
239
00:10:45,601 --> 00:10:46,820
to cuts of meat this good.
240
00:10:50,388 --> 00:10:54,088
Tuscany'’s famous Chianina
cattle needed lots of land,
241
00:10:54,131 --> 00:10:56,090
that was hugely expensive
to run.
242
00:10:56,133 --> 00:10:59,006
Of course, the Medici didn'’t
need to worry about that.
243
00:11:12,106 --> 00:11:13,107
But why?
244
00:11:20,549 --> 00:11:24,074
500 years later, thankfully
you don'’t need to be
245
00:11:24,118 --> 00:11:27,512
a Grand Duke to enjoy
steaks this big,
246
00:11:27,556 --> 00:11:30,777
and Fabio wants to cook for me
Tuscany'’s signature dish,
247
00:11:30,820 --> 00:11:34,824
the magnificent
bistecca alla Fiorentina.
248
00:11:42,179 --> 00:11:44,225
Good.
249
00:11:44,268 --> 00:11:46,270
And in case lunch isn'’t looking
worthy enough
250
00:11:46,314 --> 00:11:47,837
of, like, ten men,
251
00:11:47,881 --> 00:11:50,492
Fabio picks out
a little appetizer,
252
00:11:50,535 --> 00:11:52,320
yet another cut of meat.
253
00:11:56,063 --> 00:11:58,239
We head back to the deli
Fabio owns.
254
00:11:58,282 --> 00:12:01,721
Thank you. Oh, look at that,
look at the flowers.
255
00:12:01,764 --> 00:12:05,768
He hurries us past any food
that hasn'’t had a pulse.
256
00:12:05,812 --> 00:12:08,162
And we head up to his hideaway
on the roof,
257
00:12:08,205 --> 00:12:09,685
where he does his cooking.
258
00:12:09,729 --> 00:12:12,470
Oh my god. Come on.
259
00:12:12,514 --> 00:12:14,864
We'’re starting with
the Chianina beef,
260
00:12:14,908 --> 00:12:17,127
the Medici family
favorite.
261
00:12:17,171 --> 00:12:20,043
The cattle has grazed
the Tuscan fields
262
00:12:20,087 --> 00:12:21,784
for 2,000 years.
263
00:12:21,828 --> 00:12:23,525
They'’re of such high quality,
264
00:12:23,568 --> 00:12:25,527
that we'’re eating it raw.
265
00:12:41,848 --> 00:12:42,979
Oh my god.
266
00:12:44,981 --> 00:12:47,462
That's the best sushi
I've ever had.
267
00:12:47,505 --> 00:12:48,463
[LAUGHS]
268
00:12:52,815 --> 00:12:54,991
And now, the main event.
269
00:13:13,270 --> 00:13:16,665
So what he'’s doing now
he says, this is, the secret--
270
00:13:16,708 --> 00:13:18,058
[FABIO] The family secret.
271
00:13:18,101 --> 00:13:20,538
Besides excessive
amounts of salt.
272
00:13:20,582 --> 00:13:25,195
So the little sort of wisps
of olive branch
273
00:13:25,239 --> 00:13:27,632
like this in the fire.
274
00:13:31,985 --> 00:13:34,465
So you're getting,
you're getting
275
00:13:34,509 --> 00:13:36,728
the flavor of those
olive branches.
276
00:13:36,772 --> 00:13:38,382
It gives it a very
distinctive taste.
277
00:13:42,604 --> 00:13:44,519
During the Renaissance,
278
00:13:44,562 --> 00:13:47,652
the Medici lit fires around
the city on feast days
279
00:13:47,696 --> 00:13:50,655
and handed out roast beef
to the common people.
280
00:13:50,699 --> 00:13:52,396
Most of the time though,
281
00:13:52,440 --> 00:13:55,486
they kept this amazing
meat for themselves.
282
00:13:59,839 --> 00:14:02,406
This one actually
comes from the same area
283
00:14:02,450 --> 00:14:04,800
where the Medici
family originated.
284
00:14:07,977 --> 00:14:10,284
Jesus.
285
00:14:10,327 --> 00:14:13,374
This is like no steak
I've ever eaten.
286
00:14:13,417 --> 00:14:15,985
It'’s both crisp and delicate
287
00:14:16,029 --> 00:14:19,597
and the smoke carries
the taste of the land.
288
00:14:19,641 --> 00:14:24,298
God damn it!
It just melts in your mouth.
289
00:14:24,341 --> 00:14:26,213
It'’s what makes
the regional cooking of Italy
290
00:14:26,256 --> 00:14:29,172
about so much more
than just a tasty meal.
291
00:14:40,967 --> 00:14:44,840
But the palate is the organ
that connects Italy.
292
00:15:17,177 --> 00:15:19,657
-I'll drink to that.
-Yeah.
293
00:15:19,701 --> 00:15:20,876
Cheers.
294
00:15:30,973 --> 00:15:33,497
There comes a time in any show
about Tuscany
295
00:15:33,541 --> 00:15:37,197
where the host heads out
to the spectacular hills
296
00:15:37,240 --> 00:15:39,112
and tells you how
the Mediterranean sun
297
00:15:39,155 --> 00:15:42,680
has blessed the Tuscan
vineyards for 3000 years.
298
00:15:45,596 --> 00:15:47,294
They may even have
a thoughtful sip
299
00:15:47,337 --> 00:15:48,817
of a world famous Tuscan wine
300
00:15:48,860 --> 00:15:50,471
like Chianti Classico.
301
00:15:52,647 --> 00:15:55,171
But I'’m not going to do that.
302
00:15:55,215 --> 00:15:59,088
I'’m going on a good
old fashioned bar crawl.
303
00:15:59,132 --> 00:16:03,484
And when I say '‘old fashioned'’,
I mean, like, the Renaissance.
304
00:16:09,316 --> 00:16:12,493
I'’m going to meet a friend
of mine, Elisabetta,
305
00:16:12,536 --> 00:16:15,017
who is a Renaissance scholar.
306
00:16:15,061 --> 00:16:19,500
She'’s incredibly boring,
but we'’ll make it through.
307
00:16:19,543 --> 00:16:21,589
My God, I can'’t believe
you came.
308
00:16:21,632 --> 00:16:23,852
-Hi.
-How are you?
309
00:16:23,895 --> 00:16:25,027
-How are you?
-Good to see you.
310
00:16:25,071 --> 00:16:27,073
Nice to see you too.
311
00:16:27,116 --> 00:16:28,857
This little bar has just
reintroduced
312
00:16:28,900 --> 00:16:30,032
a 500-year-old tradition.
313
00:16:32,426 --> 00:16:34,297
In 1559, our old friend,
314
00:16:34,341 --> 00:16:37,344
the Grand Duke Cosimo
Primo de Medici,
315
00:16:37,387 --> 00:16:39,955
decreed that wealthy
Florentines
316
00:16:39,999 --> 00:16:41,826
could sell the wine
they produced
317
00:16:41,870 --> 00:16:44,481
on their country estates
direct from little windows
318
00:16:44,525 --> 00:16:47,484
cut into the walls
of their city palaces
319
00:16:47,528 --> 00:16:50,052
instead of through taverns
and inn keepers.
320
00:17:16,122 --> 00:17:18,733
So, you would walk by, and
you would buy, not by the glass,
321
00:17:18,776 --> 00:17:20,213
but you'd buy by the bottle.
322
00:17:20,256 --> 00:17:21,910
-You'd buy a flask.
-You buy a flask.
323
00:17:21,953 --> 00:17:24,478
They had a little wooden door,
there was a bell.
324
00:17:24,521 --> 00:17:27,481
Sometimes they would also
place things like a flask on top
325
00:17:27,524 --> 00:17:30,788
like an advertisement to say,
"Hey guys, we sell wine."
326
00:17:30,832 --> 00:17:32,790
Because I remember living here
when I was a kid.
327
00:17:32,834 --> 00:17:34,314
I'’d see these things,
328
00:17:34,357 --> 00:17:36,055
I always thought they
were for, you know,
329
00:17:36,098 --> 00:17:38,100
where you'’d put
a little statue or something.
330
00:17:38,144 --> 00:17:40,972
-Yeah, like a tabernacle.
-Yeah, exactly.
331
00:17:41,016 --> 00:17:43,062
-Let's order some wine.
-OK
332
00:17:43,105 --> 00:17:46,239
-Let's order some wine.
-How do you. Do I pull this?
333
00:17:46,282 --> 00:17:48,241
-Ring
-Oh, it's a bell.
334
00:17:50,417 --> 00:17:52,984
-Will someone come?
-Well, they're awfully slow.
335
00:17:53,028 --> 00:17:55,900
Oh, hi. That's wonderful.
Hi, how are you?
336
00:18:01,036 --> 00:18:02,951
-Here you go.
-Oh, thank you so much.
337
00:18:02,994 --> 00:18:04,779
Thank you,
thank you so much, thank you.
338
00:18:08,565 --> 00:18:10,001
That's good.
339
00:18:10,045 --> 00:18:12,830
-That's good.
-I always thought wine,
340
00:18:12,874 --> 00:18:14,919
the taste is better
when it comes through a window.
341
00:18:14,963 --> 00:18:15,833
Yeah.
342
00:18:17,008 --> 00:18:18,401
You get another wine?
343
00:18:18,445 --> 00:18:19,924
-Yeah, oh yeah.
-Yeah.
344
00:18:19,968 --> 00:18:20,969
It seems to be empty.
345
00:18:21,012 --> 00:18:22,797
Oh, hi. How are you?
346
00:18:22,840 --> 00:18:24,364
Can I get...
347
00:18:24,407 --> 00:18:26,366
Five hundred years ago,
348
00:18:26,409 --> 00:18:28,716
everyone was encouraged
to drink
349
00:18:28,759 --> 00:18:31,022
at least a liter of wine a day.
350
00:18:31,066 --> 00:18:33,851
Not for the winemaker'’s
profit but for health reasons.
351
00:18:33,895 --> 00:18:35,636
-Come on.
-Let's sit.
352
00:18:35,679 --> 00:18:38,247
So tell me everything
else you know.
353
00:18:38,291 --> 00:18:42,164
And some people needed to be
more healthy than others.
354
00:18:42,208 --> 00:18:47,561
If you were pregnant
you could have one at any time.
355
00:18:47,604 --> 00:18:49,650
-You could have one at any time?
-Yeah.
356
00:18:49,693 --> 00:18:51,695
-If you were pregnant.
-Yeah.
357
00:18:51,739 --> 00:18:53,393
Because it was considered...
358
00:18:53,436 --> 00:18:55,438
My mother did that too.
No, she didn'’t.
359
00:18:55,482 --> 00:18:56,439
-Really?
-Yeah.
360
00:18:56,483 --> 00:18:57,962
Like a nourishment.
361
00:18:58,006 --> 00:18:59,355
So, it's sort of the opposite
of today?
362
00:18:59,399 --> 00:19:01,314
-Yeah, of today.
-Okay.
363
00:19:01,357 --> 00:19:02,706
-Come on.
-Let's go, come on.
364
00:19:06,623 --> 00:19:09,539
This could be a disappointingly
short wine crawl
365
00:19:09,583 --> 00:19:11,193
as Bar Babae is currently
the only
366
00:19:11,237 --> 00:19:13,717
functioning wine window
in Florence.
367
00:19:13,761 --> 00:19:17,199
Even if there are still
130 or so defunct ones
368
00:19:17,243 --> 00:19:18,548
around the city.
369
00:19:18,592 --> 00:19:20,202
These little Wine Windows
370
00:19:20,246 --> 00:19:22,291
don't exist anywhere
outside of Tuscany,
371
00:19:22,335 --> 00:19:25,294
another example
of Renaissance genius.
372
00:19:25,338 --> 00:19:27,209
-There are too many of them.
-Yeah.
373
00:19:27,253 --> 00:19:30,691
And then, completely by chance,
we come across another.
374
00:19:32,780 --> 00:19:34,521
But the sign would be from when?
375
00:19:34,564 --> 00:19:36,436
That sign.
376
00:20:06,030 --> 00:20:08,598
-The little doors of paradise.
-Paradise, yeah.
377
00:20:10,600 --> 00:20:13,212
Hi, hi, there you are again.
378
00:20:13,255 --> 00:20:14,952
Hi, how are you?
379
00:20:14,996 --> 00:20:16,258
Thank you so much.
380
00:20:19,740 --> 00:20:21,394
To end of the evening
381
00:20:21,437 --> 00:20:24,745
we head out for Tuscany's
favorite nightcap.
382
00:20:24,788 --> 00:20:28,488
the local dessert wine, Vin
Santo, the holy wine.
383
00:20:28,531 --> 00:20:32,013
It's called Vin Santo because
when you drink it, a halo...
384
00:20:32,056 --> 00:20:33,797
-A halo comes?
-A halo is on your head.
385
00:20:34,972 --> 00:20:36,713
Anyway.
386
00:20:36,757 --> 00:20:39,412
Tuscan tradition dictates you
dip almond biscotti,
387
00:20:39,455 --> 00:20:43,285
known in Italy as cantucci,
in your vin santo.
388
00:20:46,941 --> 00:20:48,464
Oh, angle, is that what
it means?
389
00:20:48,508 --> 00:20:50,292
Yeah.
390
00:20:50,336 --> 00:20:54,209
The result is a sweet, crunchy
and heady delight.
391
00:20:54,253 --> 00:20:55,819
Maybe too heady.
392
00:20:55,863 --> 00:20:59,258
Anything that ends in Tucci,
I like.
393
00:20:59,301 --> 00:21:00,955
[LAUGHS]
394
00:21:00,998 --> 00:21:03,610
-That's the end of that episode.
-That's so funny.
395
00:21:05,786 --> 00:21:08,310
Cantucci, right.
396
00:21:20,409 --> 00:21:22,193
Tuscany may be renowned
397
00:21:22,237 --> 00:21:24,892
for incredible meat
and fine wines,
398
00:21:24,935 --> 00:21:28,287
but this food of the rich
is only half the story.
399
00:21:28,330 --> 00:21:30,332
The other branch
of Tuscan cooking
400
00:21:30,376 --> 00:21:34,771
grew out of biting poverty
and humble ingredients.
401
00:21:34,815 --> 00:21:36,338
So, where do you wanna go first?
402
00:21:36,382 --> 00:21:38,427
Historian Leonardo Romanelli
403
00:21:38,471 --> 00:21:41,125
is taking me to Florence'’s
central market
404
00:21:41,169 --> 00:21:43,737
to show me the ingredients
of what the Italians call
405
00:21:43,780 --> 00:21:46,043
'‘Cucina Povera'’, poor food.
406
00:21:46,087 --> 00:21:48,002
So, you wanna show me some beans
407
00:21:48,045 --> 00:21:52,311
which are a staple
of Florentine cooking.
408
00:21:52,354 --> 00:21:55,357
-So you have different types.
-For different dishes.
409
00:21:55,401 --> 00:21:57,707
The best are zolfini.
410
00:21:57,751 --> 00:22:00,101
These type of beans are solid
411
00:22:00,144 --> 00:22:03,452
but you don'’t need to put in
the water before cooking.
412
00:22:03,496 --> 00:22:06,760
-Oh really?
-And they taste so...
413
00:22:06,803 --> 00:22:08,718
You don'’t have to
soak them beforehand?
414
00:22:08,762 --> 00:22:10,154
No, that's the difference.
415
00:22:14,028 --> 00:22:16,552
It means the Florentines
eat the beans.
416
00:22:16,596 --> 00:22:18,206
The bean eaters.
417
00:22:18,249 --> 00:22:21,165
Yeah, because we are using
so many different--
418
00:22:21,209 --> 00:22:23,690
Oh no, now you're going to
mix them all up.
419
00:22:23,733 --> 00:22:25,692
[LAUGHS]
420
00:22:25,735 --> 00:22:29,609
The cooking is really,
very poor, simple cooking.
421
00:22:29,652 --> 00:22:32,089
That's true.
422
00:22:32,133 --> 00:22:34,483
I read that during
the Renaissance
423
00:22:34,527 --> 00:22:37,138
the wealthier people
would have meat.
424
00:22:37,181 --> 00:22:40,228
Whereas the poorer people
basically just had beans,
425
00:22:40,271 --> 00:22:43,840
some kind of soup and
some bread and that was it.
426
00:22:43,884 --> 00:22:47,017
I have to say, we use
what we have.
427
00:22:47,061 --> 00:22:49,106
It says something about
the character
428
00:22:49,150 --> 00:22:50,934
of the Tuscany people.
429
00:22:50,978 --> 00:22:53,546
We have Tuscan bread
without salt.
430
00:22:53,589 --> 00:22:55,374
I know, I remember
when I was a kid
431
00:22:55,417 --> 00:22:56,853
and we came here
432
00:22:56,897 --> 00:22:58,812
and we tasted the
bread and I was like,
433
00:22:58,855 --> 00:23:00,770
"This is terrible, this is the
worst thing
434
00:23:00,814 --> 00:23:02,859
I've ever had in my life."
435
00:23:02,903 --> 00:23:05,209
We never got used to it.
436
00:23:05,253 --> 00:23:07,081
Seeing these basic ingredients
437
00:23:07,124 --> 00:23:09,388
here in the city market
is one thing,
438
00:23:09,431 --> 00:23:13,217
but the only way to truly
understand Tuscan '‘poor food'’
439
00:23:13,261 --> 00:23:15,045
is to get out of the city
440
00:23:15,089 --> 00:23:19,920
and go deep into the endlessly
beautiful countryside.
441
00:23:19,963 --> 00:23:22,009
Isn't that kind of amazing
when you look around,
442
00:23:22,052 --> 00:23:25,273
is that, I mean,
you really don't see
443
00:23:25,316 --> 00:23:27,057
a contemporary building
for miles.
444
00:23:28,276 --> 00:23:30,365
Look at that.
445
00:23:30,409 --> 00:23:33,455
I'’m following the River Arno,
50 miles south of Florence,
446
00:23:33,499 --> 00:23:36,240
to a small village
called Ponte Buriano,
447
00:23:36,284 --> 00:23:40,027
where I'’ve been invited
to a wheat threshing festival.
448
00:23:40,070 --> 00:23:42,508
Do I know what threshing
of the wheat is?
449
00:23:42,551 --> 00:23:43,683
Are you kidding?
450
00:23:43,726 --> 00:23:45,467
I grew up threshing wheat.
451
00:23:52,692 --> 00:23:54,607
Now, if memory serves,
452
00:23:54,650 --> 00:23:57,087
threshing is where the grains
of wheat are shaken loose
453
00:23:57,131 --> 00:23:59,960
so they can be
ground down to make flour.
454
00:24:00,003 --> 00:24:02,745
[TUCCI] Oh that's the steam,
that'’s the steam engine.
455
00:24:02,789 --> 00:24:04,530
[RENATO] Yeah, yeah, yeah.
456
00:24:04,573 --> 00:24:08,272
Renato Viscovo, a local teacher,
organizes this event.
457
00:24:37,650 --> 00:24:41,088
Tonight there'’s a huge feast
for the villagers.
458
00:24:41,131 --> 00:24:43,133
They'’re coming together
to give thanks
459
00:24:43,177 --> 00:24:45,048
for the good times
in this region
460
00:24:45,092 --> 00:24:47,007
that was once ravaged
by famines
461
00:24:47,050 --> 00:24:50,010
and where farmers were
treated as indentured servants
462
00:24:50,053 --> 00:24:52,316
by their oppressive
aristocratic landowners,
463
00:24:52,360 --> 00:24:55,363
until relatively recently.
464
00:25:04,111 --> 00:25:05,982
This is a world away
465
00:25:06,026 --> 00:25:09,072
from the huge steaks and
fine wines of Florence.
466
00:25:09,116 --> 00:25:12,249
The people here cook
what they grow
467
00:25:12,293 --> 00:25:13,816
and after the toil
of harvesting
468
00:25:13,860 --> 00:25:15,339
and milling the wheat,
469
00:25:15,383 --> 00:25:17,341
what they're left with
is bread.
470
00:25:25,654 --> 00:25:28,701
Lots and lots of bread.
471
00:25:28,744 --> 00:25:33,053
So here the dough is rising
and you cook it in that oven.
472
00:25:36,447 --> 00:25:38,014
Like it was done many years ago.
473
00:25:41,627 --> 00:25:43,411
Over in the kitchens,
474
00:25:43,454 --> 00:25:45,108
some of the 200 villagers
475
00:25:45,152 --> 00:25:47,328
are hard at work
preparing the feast,
476
00:25:47,371 --> 00:25:50,461
and here too, bread plays
a starring role
477
00:25:50,505 --> 00:25:52,507
in pretty much everything.
478
00:25:52,551 --> 00:25:53,943
[TUCCI] What are they making?
479
00:26:07,653 --> 00:26:09,655
[TUCCI] Oh, the Gander.
480
00:26:15,661 --> 00:26:17,010
Oh my god.
481
00:26:22,624 --> 00:26:25,192
-[RENATO] Good?
-It's delicious but it's so hot.
482
00:26:28,195 --> 00:26:31,502
I go out back and discover
wood-fired ovens
483
00:26:31,546 --> 00:26:34,854
full of roasting ganders.
484
00:26:34,897 --> 00:26:37,421
These male geese were one
of the few farm animals
485
00:26:37,465 --> 00:26:39,423
that peasants were allowed
to keep for themselves
486
00:26:39,467 --> 00:26:42,644
and not have to share with
their landlords.
487
00:26:42,688 --> 00:26:44,646
They were saved for
special occasions
488
00:26:44,690 --> 00:26:46,169
like weddings and festivals.
489
00:26:46,213 --> 00:26:48,694
The smell is incredible.
490
00:26:54,700 --> 00:26:55,744
Come on.
491
00:26:59,922 --> 00:27:02,795
You know? Really, it's like
a Christmas in your mouth.
492
00:27:02,838 --> 00:27:03,839
Yeah, wow.
493
00:27:22,075 --> 00:27:23,380
Well, you're great cooks.
494
00:27:29,865 --> 00:27:32,476
Over the centuries,
495
00:27:32,520 --> 00:27:34,870
the food of the working people
here in the Tuscan countryside
496
00:27:34,914 --> 00:27:36,872
developed into its own cuisine.
497
00:27:36,916 --> 00:27:39,658
It'’s not as showy
as the food in Florence
498
00:27:39,701 --> 00:27:42,269
but it's one that
is just as glorious
499
00:27:42,312 --> 00:27:44,924
as the landscape from
which it comes.
500
00:27:44,967 --> 00:27:46,665
[LAUGHS]
501
00:27:59,112 --> 00:28:00,983
My night at the wheat
threshing festival
502
00:28:01,027 --> 00:28:05,553
has reminded me of the epic,
insatiable obsession
503
00:28:05,596 --> 00:28:08,121
Tuscany has with bread.
504
00:28:08,164 --> 00:28:10,558
It'’s a love that has echoed
through the ages
505
00:28:10,601 --> 00:28:14,475
and there are recipes for
every stage of a loaf'’s life.
506
00:28:14,518 --> 00:28:17,957
The best ones however are
saved for the advanced years,
507
00:28:18,000 --> 00:28:21,264
when bread is old and stale.
508
00:28:21,308 --> 00:28:24,615
That'’s when Tuscan
cooks get really creative.
509
00:28:28,271 --> 00:28:29,577
[TUCCI] And here we are.
510
00:28:29,620 --> 00:28:31,622
-Yeah.
-Yeah, it's very exciting.
511
00:28:31,666 --> 00:28:34,713
I'’m having lunch
at the Cinghiale Bianco,
512
00:28:34,756 --> 00:28:37,106
one of my favorite restaurants
in Florence.
513
00:28:37,150 --> 00:28:39,152
So nice to see you.
Really nice to see you.
514
00:28:39,195 --> 00:28:41,502
And I'’m joined again
by local food expert,
515
00:28:41,545 --> 00:28:43,112
Professor Leonardo Romanelli,
516
00:28:43,156 --> 00:28:45,985
and my friend the art restorer,
Daniella Murphy.
517
00:28:46,028 --> 00:28:47,421
-Hi, Stanley.
-[TUCCI] Uh-oh.
518
00:28:47,464 --> 00:28:49,640
-[LEONARDO] Oh, hi.
-[TUCCI] Hi.
519
00:28:49,684 --> 00:28:51,947
This place specializes in
'‘poor food'’
520
00:28:51,991 --> 00:28:54,036
and their recipes
are so heavenly.
521
00:28:54,080 --> 00:28:57,126
I'’m sure it's where old bread
would choose to come and die.
522
00:29:00,173 --> 00:29:02,131
Marco Maselli
is the restaurant'’s owner
523
00:29:02,175 --> 00:29:04,046
This is the ribolita.
524
00:29:04,090 --> 00:29:07,528
Basically, the main ingredients
are bread and the black cabbage.
525
00:29:07,571 --> 00:29:11,053
And then, we have
the tomato and bread soup,
526
00:29:11,097 --> 00:29:12,620
Pappa al pomodoro.
527
00:29:12,663 --> 00:29:14,927
The base is olive oil
and garlic,
528
00:29:14,970 --> 00:29:16,667
Tuscan bread and tomato.
529
00:29:16,711 --> 00:29:18,800
It sounds very simple.
530
00:29:18,844 --> 00:29:20,410
-Not so simple to prepare.
-[TUCCI] Not simple to make.
531
00:29:20,454 --> 00:29:22,456
[MARCO] To make good.
532
00:29:22,499 --> 00:29:27,026
But, in my opinion, the queen
of the Tuscan dishes
533
00:29:27,069 --> 00:29:28,767
is the Panzanella.
534
00:29:28,810 --> 00:29:30,420
I was hoping that was mine.
535
00:29:30,464 --> 00:29:33,859
Also, a very simple
and 'poor' dish.
536
00:29:33,902 --> 00:29:39,516
Tuscan bread soaked in vinegar
and onion and tomato.
537
00:29:39,560 --> 00:29:41,214
-[MARCO] Enjoy.
-[TUCCI] Thank you.
538
00:29:41,257 --> 00:29:42,911
[Daniella] This Panzanella
is very good.
539
00:29:42,955 --> 00:29:46,828
[TUCCI] And this Pappa
al pomodoro, perfecto.
540
00:29:46,872 --> 00:29:48,308
This is one of my
favorite things,
541
00:29:48,351 --> 00:29:51,224
I make it for my kids,
they'll just eat.
542
00:29:51,267 --> 00:29:53,530
Like it's ice cream,
practically.
543
00:29:53,574 --> 00:29:56,751
We have good tomatoes,
good olive oil and Tuscan bread.
544
00:29:56,795 --> 00:29:58,100
Maybe not Tuscan bread.
545
00:29:58,144 --> 00:29:59,754
Maybe, OK. [LAUGHS]
546
00:29:59,798 --> 00:30:01,669
I have to admit,
547
00:30:01,712 --> 00:30:03,802
that I much prefer Tuscan bread
cooked in dishes like this
548
00:30:03,845 --> 00:30:07,109
because on its own
it can taste quite bland
549
00:30:07,153 --> 00:30:08,894
and that'’s an understatement.
550
00:30:08,937 --> 00:30:11,200
It actually tastes like
cardboard.
551
00:30:11,244 --> 00:30:13,550
That'’s because it's unsalted.
552
00:30:13,594 --> 00:30:16,031
One theory is that Florence
refused to pay
553
00:30:16,075 --> 00:30:19,992
its arch-rival town of Pisa
for its salt.
554
00:30:20,035 --> 00:30:22,168
They were willing to spend
money with other people
555
00:30:22,211 --> 00:30:23,952
but never give money to Pisa.
556
00:30:23,996 --> 00:30:26,128
-Yeah, especially Pisa.
-Even today.
557
00:30:26,172 --> 00:30:28,783
But of course,
this being Italy,
558
00:30:28,827 --> 00:30:33,744
food rivalries go deep but
no-one can quite remember why.
559
00:30:33,788 --> 00:30:36,051
Another idea is this,
560
00:30:36,095 --> 00:30:40,229
if they don'’t use salt the bread
could stay for a long time.
561
00:30:40,273 --> 00:30:41,796
Really, without salt?
562
00:30:41,840 --> 00:30:43,450
-I didn't know that.
-Because, because
563
00:30:43,493 --> 00:30:45,017
-the salt, the salt...
-The salt breaks it down.
564
00:30:45,060 --> 00:30:46,627
The salt became brine.
565
00:30:46,670 --> 00:30:48,237
For sure the most convincing one
566
00:30:48,281 --> 00:30:49,935
is we don'’t want to give money
to the Pisani.
567
00:30:49,978 --> 00:30:52,067
That's the most convincing.
[LAUGHS]
568
00:30:52,111 --> 00:30:53,547
I believe that,
actually, most of all.
569
00:30:53,590 --> 00:30:55,679
-Yeah.
-[LAUGHS]
570
00:30:55,723 --> 00:30:58,073
For me panzanella is one of the
greatest dishes
571
00:30:58,117 --> 00:31:00,119
of Tuscan poor food.
572
00:31:00,162 --> 00:31:04,079
Giving brittle old bread new
life by using fresh tomatoes
573
00:31:04,123 --> 00:31:07,213
to create a surprisingly
refreshing salad.
574
00:31:12,131 --> 00:31:14,437
Knowing my love
of food and art,
575
00:31:14,481 --> 00:31:18,572
Daniela has invited me
to a festival this evening.
576
00:31:18,615 --> 00:31:20,617
A very fancy festival.
577
00:31:23,229 --> 00:31:27,494
The one thing that everybody
has in common is the food.
578
00:31:27,537 --> 00:31:29,017
Yeah.
579
00:31:29,061 --> 00:31:31,324
This event is about
as far as you can get
580
00:31:31,367 --> 00:31:33,500
from the wheat threshing
festival.
581
00:31:33,543 --> 00:31:36,982
Here Florence'’s richest and most
powerful families have gathered,
582
00:31:37,025 --> 00:31:39,288
as they have for centuries,
583
00:31:39,332 --> 00:31:43,684
to toast the city'’s new creative
talent from chefs and musicians,
584
00:31:43,727 --> 00:31:46,513
to artists hoping
to follow in the footsteps
585
00:31:46,556 --> 00:31:49,646
of Da Vinci and Michelangelo.
586
00:31:49,690 --> 00:31:52,998
You are right now
in a situation where,
587
00:31:53,041 --> 00:31:55,391
more or less
500 years ago,
588
00:31:55,435 --> 00:31:57,828
the Medici would have done
something like this.
589
00:31:57,872 --> 00:31:59,656
So we'’re going to go
and have some food now.
590
00:31:59,700 --> 00:32:01,571
She knows me too well.
591
00:32:12,278 --> 00:32:13,888
Really?
592
00:32:13,932 --> 00:32:16,847
It's a very sophisticated
form of Panzenella.
593
00:32:16,891 --> 00:32:18,501
This looks very different
594
00:32:18,545 --> 00:32:21,113
to the rustic bread salad
we had for lunch.
595
00:32:21,156 --> 00:32:22,462
[DANIELLA] But it tastes
of Panzanella.
596
00:32:22,505 --> 00:32:24,768
It completely tastes of
Panzanella.
597
00:32:24,812 --> 00:32:28,294
Panzanella was what
the farmers would eat.
598
00:32:28,337 --> 00:32:31,819
And now it's turned
into this very sophisticated--
599
00:32:31,862 --> 00:32:33,560
-[TUCCI] Foam.
-Foam.
600
00:32:35,736 --> 00:32:38,739
You see, the past being
rediscovered.
601
00:32:38,782 --> 00:32:40,567
[TUCCI] It'’s a little
Renaissance in a bowl.
602
00:32:40,610 --> 00:32:42,134
[DANIELLA] There's a little
Renaissance in it
603
00:32:42,177 --> 00:32:43,178
and a lot of the future.
604
00:32:44,875 --> 00:32:47,008
[CROWD CHATTING]
605
00:32:52,057 --> 00:32:53,536
[BUSTLING CROWDS]
606
00:32:56,670 --> 00:32:58,977
After tasting this new version
of panzanella,
607
00:32:59,020 --> 00:33:04,069
we made some inquiries and
found the chef who created it.
608
00:33:04,112 --> 00:33:05,896
Nerina Martinelli and her team
609
00:33:05,940 --> 00:33:09,596
are just about to open Nugolo,
a brand-new restaurant
610
00:33:09,639 --> 00:33:14,035
that re-imagines Tuscany'’s rural
food in the heart of the city.
611
00:33:14,079 --> 00:33:16,646
[NERINA] The idea around the
menu and the dishes that we do
612
00:33:16,690 --> 00:33:20,824
is to take traditional dishes,
traditional recipes
613
00:33:20,868 --> 00:33:22,826
and then add something new.
614
00:33:22,870 --> 00:33:24,915
All the team of the restaurant,
615
00:33:24,959 --> 00:33:27,657
we are all under 30 years old
so we are all really young.
616
00:33:27,701 --> 00:33:29,659
These young chefs
617
00:33:29,703 --> 00:33:32,488
are seeing old Tuscan
dishes with new eyes.
618
00:33:32,532 --> 00:33:34,186
[NERINA] So, the Panzanella foam
619
00:33:34,229 --> 00:33:38,059
is an example
of a traditional Tuscan dish.
620
00:33:41,671 --> 00:33:43,499
So, farmers.
621
00:33:43,543 --> 00:33:45,458
Basically made with
the simplest...
622
00:33:45,501 --> 00:33:47,286
Exactly.
623
00:33:47,329 --> 00:33:50,289
-...poorest ingredients.
-Onion, tomato, bread, vinegar.
624
00:33:50,332 --> 00:33:52,247
Cucumber, that's it.
625
00:33:52,291 --> 00:33:54,423
And normally we do it
with old bread.
626
00:33:54,467 --> 00:33:57,644
-[TUCCI] With old bread. Right.
-With old bread.
627
00:33:57,687 --> 00:34:00,821
But you're taking it to another
level by foaming it.
628
00:34:00,864 --> 00:34:03,693
The air inside it becomes
very light
629
00:34:03,737 --> 00:34:07,001
but still keeping the flavor
of the panzanella.
630
00:34:10,526 --> 00:34:13,181
And we finish with
the basil oil.
631
00:34:13,225 --> 00:34:15,314
Couple of drops.
632
00:34:15,357 --> 00:34:16,924
I love that you did this.
633
00:34:16,967 --> 00:34:18,926
-Extra virgin olive oil.
-It's so smart.
634
00:34:25,541 --> 00:34:28,066
It's, it's delicious.
635
00:34:28,109 --> 00:34:30,807
[ANTONIO] Especially for summer
time, it's really fresh.
636
00:34:30,851 --> 00:34:35,029
Yeah, it's like, it really is
the perfect appetizer, isn't it.
637
00:34:35,073 --> 00:34:37,031
-Exactly.
-Exactly.
638
00:34:37,075 --> 00:34:41,644
Wow, you've taken tomatoes
to a whole other place.
639
00:34:41,688 --> 00:34:46,258
And the simplest dishes
to a whole other level.
640
00:34:46,301 --> 00:34:48,608
This simple bread salad has
woven its way
641
00:34:48,651 --> 00:34:50,566
through Tuscan society.
642
00:34:50,610 --> 00:34:53,003
From peasants ensuring food
doesn'’t go to waste
643
00:34:53,047 --> 00:34:56,094
to Florentine aristocrats.
644
00:34:56,137 --> 00:34:58,748
It'’s great to see
these definitive Tuscan flavors
645
00:34:58,792 --> 00:35:01,011
now inspiring a new generation,
646
00:35:01,055 --> 00:35:03,753
making exciting food
that looks to the future
647
00:35:03,797 --> 00:35:07,061
while respecting
the land and its history.
648
00:35:18,725 --> 00:35:22,163
The food of rich cities
and the poor countryside
649
00:35:22,207 --> 00:35:24,774
are the two great pillars
of Tuscan cuisine.
650
00:35:24,818 --> 00:35:28,865
But what unites them
is a blast of fresh sea breeze
651
00:35:28,909 --> 00:35:32,739
blowing in from
Tuscany'’s fabulous coastline.
652
00:35:32,782 --> 00:35:34,958
I'’ve come 50 miles
west of Florence
653
00:35:35,002 --> 00:35:37,700
to the city of Livorno.
654
00:35:37,744 --> 00:35:40,877
In the late 16th Century,
the Medici family
655
00:35:40,921 --> 00:35:43,706
turned it into one of the
great trading ports of Italy,
656
00:35:43,750 --> 00:35:46,100
where Tuscany welcomed
the world.
657
00:35:46,144 --> 00:35:49,669
Chef Fabio Picchi is never
happier than when he's here,
658
00:35:49,712 --> 00:35:53,499
with friends, and the prospect
of a good meal on the horizon.
659
00:36:09,689 --> 00:36:11,473
During the Renaissance,
660
00:36:11,517 --> 00:36:14,259
migrants were actively
encouraged to settle in Livorno
661
00:36:14,302 --> 00:36:16,391
and its reputation
as a free-thinking
662
00:36:16,435 --> 00:36:18,176
big-hearted city by the sea...
663
00:36:18,219 --> 00:36:20,178
[TUCCI] Oh yeah, nice.
664
00:36:20,221 --> 00:36:22,267
...drew people from
across Europe and beyond.
665
00:36:23,833 --> 00:36:25,531
In the town center,
666
00:36:25,574 --> 00:36:28,751
is a tiny place called
Torteria Da Gagarin.
667
00:36:28,795 --> 00:36:32,102
It opened in 1959
and sells just one thing.
668
00:36:32,146 --> 00:36:33,713
Known as "the cake",
669
00:36:33,756 --> 00:36:36,585
it'’s a pancake
made from chickpea flour.
670
00:36:48,162 --> 00:36:50,469
The torteria is a local
institution,
671
00:36:50,512 --> 00:36:55,474
serving up "the cake" in,
what else, a huge hunk of bread.
672
00:37:08,226 --> 00:37:09,749
[TUCCI] This is good,
I like this.
673
00:37:09,792 --> 00:37:11,403
It's absolutely delicious.
674
00:37:11,446 --> 00:37:13,796
And he says that he makes it
because he loves it.
675
00:37:13,840 --> 00:37:16,756
He makes it at home but he
can't make it as good as this.
676
00:37:16,799 --> 00:37:18,236
[FABIO] Yeah.
677
00:37:20,368 --> 00:37:22,327
After that little appetizer,
678
00:37:22,370 --> 00:37:24,720
we head up to the house
of one of Fabio'’s friends
679
00:37:24,764 --> 00:37:26,896
in the hills above the town.
680
00:37:26,940 --> 00:37:29,159
He'’s gathered together
the ingredients
681
00:37:29,203 --> 00:37:30,596
for a Livornese classic.
682
00:37:30,639 --> 00:37:32,902
He's making a fish stew.
683
00:37:42,260 --> 00:37:46,481
-This is a fake Cacciucco.
-It's a fake.
684
00:37:46,525 --> 00:37:49,397
I need to keep my voice down
so the neighbors don'’t hear
685
00:37:49,441 --> 00:37:51,486
but if you'’re not from Livorno,
686
00:37:51,530 --> 00:37:53,880
you'’re not supposed
to be making this stew.
687
00:38:03,759 --> 00:38:05,805
[TUCCI] There's always this,
sort of, battle between
688
00:38:05,848 --> 00:38:08,242
whether you're from here or
from there, or from there.
689
00:38:08,286 --> 00:38:10,113
Whatever you're making. Right?
690
00:38:10,157 --> 00:38:13,116
You can make the same thing
but you can't call it the thing.
691
00:38:13,160 --> 00:38:15,554
It is maybe a little
bit different.
692
00:38:21,690 --> 00:38:24,258
[CHOPPING]
693
00:38:24,302 --> 00:38:29,698
Cacciucco is a rich fish stew
that dates back over 500 years.
694
00:38:29,742 --> 00:38:31,918
It was the way Livorno'’s
fishermen
695
00:38:31,961 --> 00:38:35,269
would use up whatever
they hadn'’t sold that day.
696
00:38:35,313 --> 00:38:37,576
This is an imperial cacciucco.
697
00:38:37,619 --> 00:38:40,187
He's using this
really beautiful fish,
698
00:38:40,230 --> 00:38:43,756
he's also using lobster which
is not a 'poor' fish, obviously.
699
00:38:43,799 --> 00:38:47,934
So, he's taking this
and amping it up a bit.
700
00:38:58,466 --> 00:39:01,034
Like so many Italian dishes,
701
00:39:01,077 --> 00:39:05,299
the base of Fabio'’s stew
is the trusty tomato.
702
00:39:05,343 --> 00:39:08,911
It'’s hard to imagine Italian
cuisine without tomatoes
703
00:39:08,955 --> 00:39:11,218
but scholars only date
their arrival
704
00:39:11,261 --> 00:39:13,394
to that fortuitous
Medici marriage
705
00:39:13,438 --> 00:39:15,962
to Spanish nobility
in the 1540s.
706
00:39:16,005 --> 00:39:17,746
Here in Livorno though...
707
00:39:17,790 --> 00:39:19,705
Sweet.
708
00:39:19,748 --> 00:39:22,142
...legend says that the tomato
was brought by newcomers
709
00:39:22,185 --> 00:39:23,273
fleeing oppression.
710
00:39:44,294 --> 00:39:46,209
Tomatoes were
a popular ingredient
711
00:39:46,253 --> 00:39:48,168
among the Jews
of Southern Europe.
712
00:40:04,532 --> 00:40:05,664
Unless you want.
713
00:40:07,448 --> 00:40:10,756
Yeah, I think so, yeah.
714
00:40:10,799 --> 00:40:13,411
As the incredible
smell drifts outside,
715
00:40:13,454 --> 00:40:15,804
Fabio'’s friends
take their seats.
716
00:40:15,848 --> 00:40:18,024
The density of that flavor
is just--
717
00:40:31,603 --> 00:40:32,908
[TUCCI] Wow.
718
00:40:41,961 --> 00:40:44,442
[APPLAUSE]
719
00:40:44,485 --> 00:40:46,226
Fabio may not be from Livorno
720
00:40:46,269 --> 00:40:50,099
but he can definitely
cook a cacciucco.
721
00:40:58,412 --> 00:41:00,022
These are ingredients rooted
722
00:41:00,066 --> 00:41:02,068
in both the poor fishing
community
723
00:41:02,111 --> 00:41:05,637
and in Livorno's
immigrant past.
724
00:41:05,680 --> 00:41:08,161
It's a part of Tuscany's
history on a plate.
725
00:41:12,078 --> 00:41:13,906
And Fabio's not finished.
726
00:41:13,949 --> 00:41:15,777
In true Tuscan tradition,
727
00:41:15,821 --> 00:41:18,824
creativity is everything
and nothing goes to waste,
728
00:41:18,867 --> 00:41:23,002
so he whips up a whole second
course with the leftover sauce.
729
00:41:27,441 --> 00:41:29,748
You have all the flavors
of the sea,
730
00:41:29,791 --> 00:41:31,837
otherwise what would you
do with that?
731
00:41:31,880 --> 00:41:33,491
Beautiful.
732
00:41:33,534 --> 00:41:36,189
A sauce that he had left,
it only makes sense.
733
00:41:38,626 --> 00:41:41,455
It's the best,
best thing in the world.
734
00:41:41,499 --> 00:41:43,762
[SPEAKS ITALIAN]
735
00:41:43,805 --> 00:41:45,111
Cheers.
736
00:41:47,461 --> 00:41:50,551
I feel very lucky that my
parents followed their hearts
737
00:41:50,595 --> 00:41:51,987
and moved us across the world
738
00:41:52,031 --> 00:41:54,947
for a year when we
were just kids.
739
00:41:54,990 --> 00:41:58,428
I saw how the food of both rich
and poor came together
740
00:41:58,472 --> 00:42:01,693
in this corner of Italy
that'’s like nowhere on Earth...
741
00:42:01,736 --> 00:42:02,955
Wow
742
00:42:02,998 --> 00:42:04,652
...and nearly 50 years later,
743
00:42:04,696 --> 00:42:07,394
I still keep coming
back for more.
53704
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