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These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:01,618 --> 00:00:04,488 (mysterious music) 2 00:00:05,372 --> 00:00:08,242 - They didn't expect to see what they saw 3 00:00:11,728 --> 00:00:12,508 and when they saw it, 4 00:00:14,781 --> 00:00:16,221 they could never forget it. 5 00:00:21,921 --> 00:00:24,021 Ferdinand Hayden was hired to lead a team 6 00:00:24,057 --> 00:00:25,627 into the Northwest Territories. 7 00:00:25,658 --> 00:00:28,748 (mystifying music) 8 00:00:28,778 --> 00:00:30,358 And the 32 men headed west. 9 00:00:36,152 --> 00:00:39,242 They weren't here to protect Yellowstone. 10 00:00:39,272 --> 00:00:40,712 They were here to tear it to shreds 11 00:00:40,740 --> 00:00:42,240 in the name of progress, 12 00:00:43,893 --> 00:00:46,453 gold interests, railroad barons, 13 00:00:47,747 --> 00:00:49,077 Congress. 14 00:00:50,500 --> 00:00:53,290 Powerful people wanted this land for themselves. 15 00:00:57,440 --> 00:01:00,190 But something happened during their three month journey 16 00:01:02,712 --> 00:01:04,062 and slowly but surely, 17 00:01:06,716 --> 00:01:08,026 their mission changed. 18 00:01:10,003 --> 00:01:12,813 So as we celebrate the 150th anniversary 19 00:01:12,839 --> 00:01:14,369 of Yellowstone National Park, 20 00:01:15,658 --> 00:01:17,208 we take a look back in time 21 00:01:18,361 --> 00:01:21,051 and at the events that led to the preservation 22 00:01:23,733 --> 00:01:25,323 of this magical place. 23 00:01:31,541 --> 00:01:33,661 (wind whistling) 24 00:01:33,693 --> 00:01:36,403 (majestic music) 25 00:01:40,650 --> 00:01:43,340 (bird screeching) 26 00:01:46,589 --> 00:01:49,309 (birds chirping) 27 00:01:52,462 --> 00:01:54,702 (bison bellows) 28 00:01:54,731 --> 00:01:57,381 (bison bellows) 29 00:02:05,308 --> 00:02:08,028 I was hoping to get a look at some wolves this morning. 30 00:02:09,729 --> 00:02:11,399 - No. You? 31 00:02:13,566 --> 00:02:15,246 - Ah. 32 00:02:15,285 --> 00:02:17,435 Well, I better say something brilliant then, huh? 33 00:02:20,757 --> 00:02:22,327 Wolves or no wolves, 34 00:02:22,358 --> 00:02:24,438 it's still a pretty nice way to spend the morning. 35 00:02:25,662 --> 00:02:26,452 It's quiet. 36 00:02:28,681 --> 00:02:30,331 It gives you time to think. 37 00:02:33,903 --> 00:02:36,163 - I spent a lot of time thinking about 38 00:02:36,189 --> 00:02:38,639 what Hayden and his men did here, 39 00:02:38,675 --> 00:02:39,485 what they experienced. 40 00:02:41,110 --> 00:02:42,680 But they actually weren't the first outsiders 41 00:02:42,712 --> 00:02:44,062 to lay eyes on Yellowstone. 42 00:02:46,082 --> 00:02:48,772 A man named John Colter beat them by 65 years. 43 00:02:48,801 --> 00:02:51,671 (uneasy music) 44 00:02:51,704 --> 00:02:53,124 Colter grew up in Kentucky 45 00:02:55,358 --> 00:03:00,108 which in the late 1700s was the western frontier of the US. 46 00:03:00,797 --> 00:03:03,377 (livestock lowing) 47 00:03:03,416 --> 00:03:05,946 So when Lewis and Clark needed a few good men 48 00:03:05,985 --> 00:03:08,345 for their western expedition, 49 00:03:08,388 --> 00:03:13,208 they went straight to Kentucky knowing that that's 50 00:03:13,243 --> 00:03:15,303 where the most rugged of the rugged live. 51 00:03:18,281 --> 00:03:21,081 It must have been the way Colter looked 52 00:03:21,117 --> 00:03:24,637 or the way he shook a hand that inspired confidence. 53 00:03:24,671 --> 00:03:26,691 But they signed him on 54 00:03:26,723 --> 00:03:28,683 and for the next 28 months, 55 00:03:28,708 --> 00:03:30,078 they explored the west together. 56 00:03:30,109 --> 00:03:34,659 (music intensity increases) 57 00:03:34,697 --> 00:03:35,847 You could fill a few volumes 58 00:03:35,882 --> 00:03:37,502 with the stories from that trip, 59 00:03:39,102 --> 00:03:41,292 but it was only a chapter for Colter. 60 00:03:44,007 --> 00:03:46,057 When the expedition was over, 61 00:03:46,976 --> 00:03:49,126 the group headed back to St. Louis to debrief 62 00:03:49,162 --> 00:03:50,532 on everything they discovered. 63 00:03:51,781 --> 00:03:53,981 (foghorn blasts) 64 00:03:54,017 --> 00:03:56,317 That's when a chance meeting changed history. 65 00:03:59,622 --> 00:04:02,742 (bison bellow) 66 00:04:02,775 --> 00:04:04,055 A few days out from St. Louis, 67 00:04:04,093 --> 00:04:06,753 they ran into a group of fur traders 68 00:04:06,779 --> 00:04:08,499 who had a dilemma. 69 00:04:08,531 --> 00:04:10,851 They wanted to set up a fur trade with the Crow Nation. 70 00:04:10,883 --> 00:04:12,303 (uneasy music) 71 00:04:12,335 --> 00:04:16,115 But the Crows had already returned to their winter camps, 72 00:04:16,155 --> 00:04:19,135 territory where no outsiders had ever set foot. 73 00:04:20,009 --> 00:04:22,799 After more than two years in the wilderness, 74 00:04:22,829 --> 00:04:24,299 Colter had a decision to make: 75 00:04:26,266 --> 00:04:29,766 a warm bed in St. Louis or the cold unknown. 76 00:04:29,802 --> 00:04:32,372 (unsettling music) 77 00:04:32,405 --> 00:04:35,635 Some creatures just aren't built for captivity. 78 00:04:35,675 --> 00:04:37,875 (bison bellow) 79 00:04:37,910 --> 00:04:39,260 So Colter asked Lewis and Clark 80 00:04:39,295 --> 00:04:42,115 for an early dismissal, unheard of. 81 00:04:43,283 --> 00:04:46,973 They said he'd been so crucial to the expedition's success 82 00:04:47,003 --> 00:04:49,123 that they had no choice but to set him free. 83 00:04:50,490 --> 00:04:53,790 America's first mountain man was released into the wild. 84 00:04:53,826 --> 00:04:55,796 (hawk screeching) 85 00:04:55,828 --> 00:04:58,528 (birds chirping) 86 00:05:02,385 --> 00:05:05,085 (water burbling) 87 00:05:12,829 --> 00:05:14,099 He spent the next three years 88 00:05:14,130 --> 00:05:16,620 canoeing the rivers and traversing the peaks. 89 00:05:16,649 --> 00:05:19,349 (daunting music) 90 00:05:21,788 --> 00:05:23,188 He made trade deals with the Crow 91 00:05:25,425 --> 00:05:28,795 and faced certain death when he came upon hundreds 92 00:05:28,828 --> 00:05:30,098 of Blackfeet warriors 93 00:05:30,129 --> 00:05:32,429 just outside Yellowstone's borders. 94 00:05:34,250 --> 00:05:36,870 After the trapper he was traveling with was dismembered 95 00:05:36,903 --> 00:05:38,193 right in front of him, 96 00:05:39,105 --> 00:05:42,425 Colter was stripped naked and told to run. 97 00:05:43,693 --> 00:05:47,103 (victim panting) 98 00:05:47,130 --> 00:05:48,970 It was a chance for the young Blackfeet 99 00:05:48,998 --> 00:05:51,518 to prove their manhood by killing Colter. 100 00:05:52,735 --> 00:05:53,835 So he ran. 101 00:05:53,870 --> 00:05:56,420 (suspenseful music) 102 00:05:56,456 --> 00:05:57,636 (victim panting) 103 00:05:57,673 --> 00:05:58,523 Feet caked in blood 104 00:05:59,992 --> 00:06:02,062 and lungs drowned in fluid, 105 00:06:03,396 --> 00:06:06,196 he managed to stay ahead of the warriors for 21 days. 106 00:06:08,601 --> 00:06:11,341 (birds chirping) 107 00:06:13,840 --> 00:06:17,060 (bird screeching) 108 00:06:18,394 --> 00:06:19,964 (steady music) 109 00:06:19,996 --> 00:06:21,856 Ironically, the very animal 110 00:06:21,898 --> 00:06:24,618 whose fur he sought saved his life. 111 00:06:24,650 --> 00:06:27,300 (water swashing) 112 00:06:27,336 --> 00:06:29,686 He managed to elude the young Blackfeet 113 00:06:29,722 --> 00:06:31,422 by hiding inside a beaver dam. 114 00:06:31,457 --> 00:06:34,927 (water burbling) 115 00:06:34,961 --> 00:06:37,161 When he arrived at Fort Manuel days later, 116 00:06:38,731 --> 00:06:40,651 he told the incredible story 117 00:06:40,683 --> 00:06:43,853 (moves to wondrous music) 118 00:06:43,886 --> 00:06:45,196 and a few others. 119 00:06:45,922 --> 00:06:49,142 (geyser growling) 120 00:06:50,093 --> 00:06:52,683 He told tales of exploding geysers, 121 00:06:52,712 --> 00:06:55,422 (geyser growling) 122 00:06:57,700 --> 00:06:58,750 bubbling mud pots, 123 00:06:58,785 --> 00:07:01,435 (liquid gurgling) 124 00:07:03,473 --> 00:07:05,143 rainbow-colored pools. 125 00:07:11,497 --> 00:07:14,367 (creature warbling) 126 00:07:15,802 --> 00:07:17,142 No one believed him. 127 00:07:20,206 --> 00:07:23,026 They said he'd lost his mind or called him a drunk. 128 00:07:24,627 --> 00:07:25,447 It became a joke 129 00:07:28,531 --> 00:07:32,591 as people sardonically labeled this place, "Colter's Hell." 130 00:07:32,618 --> 00:07:35,218 (daunting music) 131 00:07:36,873 --> 00:07:39,033 Colter never got the last laugh. 132 00:07:40,009 --> 00:07:42,029 He died five years later, 133 00:07:42,945 --> 00:07:45,205 long before the rest of the country would come 134 00:07:45,248 --> 00:07:49,438 to know that Yellowstone region was very much a real place. 135 00:07:52,855 --> 00:07:55,055 I guess the last laugh was Colter's 136 00:07:55,091 --> 00:07:57,211 getting to see Yellowstone with his own eyes, 137 00:07:57,910 --> 00:07:59,150 at least I hope so. 138 00:08:01,013 --> 00:08:05,083 (moves to unsettling music) 139 00:08:07,453 --> 00:08:08,423 Okay, here we go. 140 00:08:14,443 --> 00:08:17,103 (bison bellow) 141 00:08:18,581 --> 00:08:20,001 This is going to get good. 142 00:08:20,683 --> 00:08:22,803 (wolf growls) 143 00:08:22,835 --> 00:08:25,985 (wolf howling) 144 00:08:27,423 --> 00:08:30,143 (birds chirping) 145 00:08:31,694 --> 00:08:34,214 (bear grunts) 146 00:08:36,148 --> 00:08:38,618 The people who question what John Colter saw 147 00:08:38,651 --> 00:08:41,271 (tranquil music) 148 00:08:42,955 --> 00:08:44,785 may have referred to it as Colter's Hell, 149 00:08:44,824 --> 00:08:48,394 (dark tones) 150 00:08:48,427 --> 00:08:49,277 but in reality 151 00:08:51,847 --> 00:08:53,217 it was sacred ground. 152 00:08:57,553 --> 00:09:00,113 (mysterious music) 153 00:09:00,139 --> 00:09:02,439 According to their oral history, 154 00:09:03,793 --> 00:09:05,963 the Kiowa people didn't have a home land 155 00:09:05,995 --> 00:09:08,045 when the earth first was created. 156 00:09:10,800 --> 00:09:12,250 Instead, they had to earn one. 157 00:09:15,137 --> 00:09:18,157 Their god told them to travel to a harsh, unforgiving land 158 00:09:22,912 --> 00:09:25,162 where water boils out of a thundering cave 159 00:09:28,251 --> 00:09:31,101 and if anyone was brave enough to jump into the water, 160 00:09:32,822 --> 00:09:34,162 the land would be theirs. 161 00:09:37,693 --> 00:09:39,453 One young man did. 162 00:09:39,478 --> 00:09:42,078 (rapids rumbling) 163 00:09:42,114 --> 00:09:44,084 And when he climbed back out, 164 00:09:45,268 --> 00:09:47,848 the land around them had turned lush and beautiful. 165 00:09:47,887 --> 00:09:51,107 (mystifying music) 166 00:09:52,174 --> 00:09:55,484 The Kiowa called the hot spring "To-sal-dau". 167 00:09:55,511 --> 00:09:58,201 (birds chirping) 168 00:09:59,148 --> 00:10:01,428 Today it's known as Dragon's Mouth. 169 00:10:01,467 --> 00:10:03,817 (geyser growls) 170 00:10:03,853 --> 00:10:05,323 Hidden deep inside its cave 171 00:10:06,956 --> 00:10:09,156 gas and steam form pressure bubbles 172 00:10:09,191 --> 00:10:11,281 that explode against the cave's roof. 173 00:10:12,962 --> 00:10:15,052 When they pop, the sound echoes out 174 00:10:15,081 --> 00:10:16,751 like the growl of a beast. 175 00:10:16,782 --> 00:10:19,352 (geyser growls) 176 00:10:22,355 --> 00:10:25,105 Steam drifting upwards like the hot breath of a dragon. 177 00:10:25,141 --> 00:10:29,231 (mystifying music continues) 178 00:10:31,297 --> 00:10:34,127 Dragon's Mouth and other remarkable sights and sounds 179 00:10:34,166 --> 00:10:35,866 of Yellowstone had been experienced 180 00:10:35,901 --> 00:10:37,501 only by Indigenous tribes 181 00:10:39,121 --> 00:10:42,481 until John Colter arrived in the area, 182 00:10:42,508 --> 00:10:44,838 (uneasy music) 183 00:10:44,877 --> 00:10:46,507 the first outsider to see them. 184 00:10:51,517 --> 00:10:52,817 (hawk screeching) 185 00:10:52,852 --> 00:10:54,292 Soon others would follow. 186 00:10:56,539 --> 00:10:58,169 (projector whirring) 187 00:10:58,207 --> 00:11:01,427 America was growing in the 1800s. 188 00:11:01,460 --> 00:11:04,030 (inspired music) 189 00:11:04,063 --> 00:11:06,233 Westward expansion was on the march. 190 00:11:13,389 --> 00:11:16,359 Gold strikes sent people past the Mississippi River 191 00:11:17,510 --> 00:11:21,110 into uncharted territory where there was plenty of land 192 00:11:24,483 --> 00:11:25,853 (whistle blasts) 193 00:11:25,885 --> 00:11:27,635 but not enough railroads. 194 00:11:27,670 --> 00:11:29,820 (projector whirring) 195 00:11:29,855 --> 00:11:32,185 So in 1853, 196 00:11:32,224 --> 00:11:34,794 Congress passed the Pacific Railroad Survey Bill. 197 00:11:34,827 --> 00:11:36,957 (sprightly music) 198 00:11:36,996 --> 00:11:38,326 They wanted to chart the west 199 00:11:39,281 --> 00:11:41,031 and find potential railroad routes 200 00:11:41,067 --> 00:11:42,397 from the Mississippi River 201 00:11:43,936 --> 00:11:45,296 to the Pacific Ocean. 202 00:11:48,257 --> 00:11:50,627 The best and brightest scientific minds 203 00:11:50,659 --> 00:11:51,879 jumped onto the project. 204 00:11:51,911 --> 00:11:55,261 (music tempo decreases) 205 00:11:56,432 --> 00:11:59,192 One of them was a geologist named Ferdinand Hayden 206 00:12:01,153 --> 00:12:04,323 who in 1871 set his sights on the Yellowstone region. 207 00:12:05,908 --> 00:12:07,308 No one had mapped the area 208 00:12:07,343 --> 00:12:10,203 he had heard so many seemingly tall tales about. 209 00:12:12,064 --> 00:12:13,784 Hayden wanted to be the first to do it. 210 00:12:13,816 --> 00:12:16,396 (vigorous music) 211 00:12:18,270 --> 00:12:23,110 He assembled a 32-man dream team made up of geologists, 212 00:12:24,160 --> 00:12:28,130 mineralogists, botanists, and zoologists. 213 00:12:30,082 --> 00:12:32,352 He also brought along a photographer 214 00:12:32,384 --> 00:12:35,224 and a painter to memorialize their findings. 215 00:12:36,455 --> 00:12:38,515 (horse whinnies) 216 00:12:38,557 --> 00:12:40,257 It took 27 horses, 217 00:12:41,393 --> 00:12:45,903 21 mules, and five wagons to transport Hayden, 218 00:12:45,931 --> 00:12:48,001 the 31 men who joined him, 219 00:12:48,033 --> 00:12:49,873 and their gear across the country. 220 00:12:49,902 --> 00:12:50,992 (hawk screeches) 221 00:12:51,020 --> 00:12:54,440 (vigorous music continues) 222 00:12:57,126 --> 00:12:59,356 Two journals that were kept during the trip 223 00:12:59,395 --> 00:13:03,275 and 10 letters sent by Hayden himself lasted through time, 224 00:13:05,000 --> 00:13:07,140 providing us with vivid insight 225 00:13:08,087 --> 00:13:09,857 into the team's historic journey. 226 00:13:09,889 --> 00:13:13,089 (birds chirping) 227 00:13:15,444 --> 00:13:18,204 (creature warbles) 228 00:13:19,582 --> 00:13:20,522 (elk squeals) 229 00:13:20,549 --> 00:13:23,149 (elk bugles) 230 00:13:25,421 --> 00:13:28,071 (uneasy music) 231 00:13:30,643 --> 00:13:34,213 (music intensity increases) 232 00:13:41,904 --> 00:13:43,294 They traveled for days 233 00:13:44,657 --> 00:13:47,857 (rapids rumbling) 234 00:13:47,893 --> 00:13:49,303 through jagged canyons 235 00:13:50,880 --> 00:13:51,900 and lush valleys. 236 00:13:51,931 --> 00:13:54,451 (gentle music) 237 00:13:56,552 --> 00:14:00,172 And on July 21st, 1871, 238 00:14:01,240 --> 00:14:03,440 they finally entered Yellowstone itself. 239 00:14:04,860 --> 00:14:08,080 (water murmuring) 240 00:14:10,366 --> 00:14:13,086 (birds chirping) 241 00:14:14,436 --> 00:14:17,166 (water burbling) 242 00:14:20,809 --> 00:14:21,809 And soon after 243 00:14:21,844 --> 00:14:25,104 (mystifying music) 244 00:14:27,266 --> 00:14:30,716 they arrived at the spot that immediately let them know 245 00:14:30,753 --> 00:14:33,113 Colter's Hell was very real. 246 00:14:38,210 --> 00:14:41,660 A giant complex of hot springs on a mountain of travertine. 247 00:14:41,697 --> 00:14:45,267 (mystifying music continues) 248 00:14:47,386 --> 00:14:50,466 Mammoth Hot Springs was created over thousands of years 249 00:14:53,876 --> 00:14:55,926 (water burbling) 250 00:14:55,961 --> 00:14:58,161 from cooling water spouted from below. 251 00:15:03,586 --> 00:15:07,466 Over two tons of calcium carbonate flows into Mammoth daily. 252 00:15:10,910 --> 00:15:12,650 And its Terrace Mountain is the largest 253 00:15:12,678 --> 00:15:14,208 of its kind on earth. 254 00:15:14,830 --> 00:15:17,450 (birds chirping) 255 00:15:23,539 --> 00:15:26,189 (steady music) 256 00:15:29,295 --> 00:15:32,715 The photographers on the expedition had a field day here 257 00:15:32,748 --> 00:15:36,148 (projector clicking) 258 00:15:39,471 --> 00:15:40,341 and still today, 259 00:15:41,340 --> 00:15:43,710 it's one of the most photographed places 260 00:15:43,742 --> 00:15:45,632 in all of Yellowstone. 261 00:15:45,661 --> 00:15:49,211 (music intensity increases) 262 00:15:54,003 --> 00:15:55,903 Hayden's men camped nearby 263 00:15:55,938 --> 00:15:58,158 and studied the feature for two days. 264 00:15:59,708 --> 00:16:02,408 (water burbling) 265 00:16:04,196 --> 00:16:06,196 They met two squatters who had big plans 266 00:16:06,231 --> 00:16:08,421 to cash in on the unique geology. 267 00:16:11,670 --> 00:16:14,170 JC McCartney and HR Horr 268 00:16:15,607 --> 00:16:18,157 had laid claim to 320 acres 269 00:16:19,294 --> 00:16:22,554 and established a ranch and bathhouse near Liberty Cap. 270 00:16:22,581 --> 00:16:25,221 (primal music) 271 00:16:27,553 --> 00:16:31,493 They planned to market the water as having healing powers. 272 00:16:31,523 --> 00:16:34,233 (water swashing) 273 00:16:36,128 --> 00:16:38,258 Hayden knew they would destroy the area, 274 00:16:40,282 --> 00:16:42,382 but he didn't know how he would stop them. 275 00:16:44,603 --> 00:16:46,263 For that plan to solidify, 276 00:16:47,172 --> 00:16:49,512 they had to push deeper into the strange land, 277 00:16:52,127 --> 00:16:53,857 see what else it had to offer. 278 00:16:53,896 --> 00:16:56,516 (birds chirping) 279 00:17:03,539 --> 00:17:06,259 (water burbling) 280 00:17:09,328 --> 00:17:12,228 They continued their march into the pristine valleys. 281 00:17:13,615 --> 00:17:16,685 (bird chirping) 282 00:17:16,719 --> 00:17:20,339 (bison bellows) 283 00:17:20,372 --> 00:17:24,632 Instantly, they were floored by the abundance of wildlife, 284 00:17:24,660 --> 00:17:27,410 (creature whooping) 285 00:17:29,565 --> 00:17:31,945 (elk squealing) 286 00:17:31,984 --> 00:17:34,324 particularly the massive population of elk. 287 00:17:38,424 --> 00:17:41,434 (elk bugles) 288 00:17:41,460 --> 00:17:44,030 (elk squealing) 289 00:17:48,350 --> 00:17:53,270 The elk herds are a stunning sight for the tourists today. 290 00:17:53,822 --> 00:17:56,362 (tourists chattering) 291 00:17:59,595 --> 00:18:00,405 But to Hayden's men, 292 00:18:03,782 --> 00:18:05,282 they were a steady source of food. 293 00:18:06,602 --> 00:18:09,242 (elk bellows) 294 00:18:10,172 --> 00:18:12,412 Long days of trekking over difficult terrain 295 00:18:14,042 --> 00:18:16,362 had the men thinking with their stomachs often 296 00:18:18,397 --> 00:18:21,397 even when they encountered the park's most feared predators. 297 00:18:21,433 --> 00:18:23,503 (uneasy music) 298 00:18:24,570 --> 00:18:28,010 Hunting is strictly prohibited in Yellowstone today, 299 00:18:29,575 --> 00:18:33,305 but it takes a lot of food to keep 32 hungry men motivated. 300 00:18:38,317 --> 00:18:40,437 And even grizzly bear was on their menu. 301 00:18:42,488 --> 00:18:43,558 (elk bugles) 302 00:18:43,589 --> 00:18:46,289 (bird squawking) 303 00:18:47,943 --> 00:18:51,263 The pioneers had to eat and they had to sleep, 304 00:18:54,066 --> 00:18:56,386 making their camps at night in canvas tents 305 00:18:57,786 --> 00:18:59,436 hoping for a good night's rest. 306 00:19:01,990 --> 00:19:05,040 But in the wilderness, sleeping isn't always easy. 307 00:19:06,528 --> 00:19:09,278 (creature yipping) 308 00:19:13,435 --> 00:19:15,365 (owl hooting) 309 00:19:15,404 --> 00:19:18,844 Boy, am I glad I chose to set my tent right under a tree 310 00:19:18,874 --> 00:19:20,184 that houses the loudest owl 311 00:19:20,209 --> 00:19:21,759 in the continental United States. 312 00:19:21,793 --> 00:19:24,463 (owl hooting) 313 00:19:24,496 --> 00:19:28,246 And always, always bring earplugs when you go camping. 314 00:19:28,283 --> 00:19:31,103 That's a tip I wish I'd remembered. 315 00:19:33,522 --> 00:19:35,792 I was doing some reading 316 00:19:35,824 --> 00:19:39,114 before I got my 17 minutes of sleep. 317 00:19:40,929 --> 00:19:42,459 This is Albert Peale's journal. 318 00:19:43,432 --> 00:19:46,502 He was a mineralogist on expedition with Hayden. 319 00:19:47,603 --> 00:19:51,593 "This morning about one o'clock we had quite an earthquake. 320 00:19:51,623 --> 00:19:54,933 (ground rumbling) 321 00:19:54,960 --> 00:19:57,250 "The first shock lasted about 20 seconds 322 00:19:57,279 --> 00:20:00,349 "and was followed by five or six shorter ones. 323 00:20:02,618 --> 00:20:04,198 (wolf howling) 324 00:20:04,236 --> 00:20:06,686 "Duncan who was on guard says that the trees were shaking 325 00:20:06,722 --> 00:20:08,672 (ground rumbling) 326 00:20:08,707 --> 00:20:10,037 (horse neighing) 327 00:20:10,075 --> 00:20:11,875 "and that the horses that were lying down 328 00:20:11,910 --> 00:20:13,410 "sprang to their feet." 329 00:20:14,696 --> 00:20:16,576 (horse neighing) 330 00:20:16,615 --> 00:20:19,295 (wolves howling) 331 00:20:22,070 --> 00:20:23,820 I've been through my fair share of earthquakes, 332 00:20:23,855 --> 00:20:26,305 but one that lasts 20 seconds, 333 00:20:27,593 --> 00:20:28,333 that's a big one. 334 00:20:29,561 --> 00:20:32,461 I can't imagine anyone going back to sleep after that. 335 00:20:34,633 --> 00:20:37,523 That was the first recorded earthquake in Yellowstone. 336 00:20:38,971 --> 00:20:41,511 Now we know there are as many as 3,000 a year. 337 00:20:42,691 --> 00:20:43,741 Some small, 338 00:20:43,775 --> 00:20:46,755 (unsettling music) 339 00:20:46,795 --> 00:20:48,075 some massive 340 00:20:50,582 --> 00:20:52,322 like the one in 1951. 341 00:20:54,603 --> 00:20:56,193 It was so strong 342 00:20:56,221 --> 00:20:59,291 that a 25-mile long section of the park was pushed up 343 00:20:59,324 --> 00:21:02,334 40 feet in elevation in just a few seconds. 344 00:21:05,814 --> 00:21:07,454 At a magnitude of 7.3, 345 00:21:09,334 --> 00:21:12,044 it is Yellowstone's strongest earthquake 346 00:21:12,904 --> 00:21:14,664 at least on record. 347 00:21:14,690 --> 00:21:17,430 (unsettling music continues) 348 00:21:17,459 --> 00:21:20,579 Evidence of its destruction can still be seen today 349 00:21:20,612 --> 00:21:21,382 at Quake Lake. 350 00:21:26,084 --> 00:21:29,044 A 170-foot deep body of water that formed 351 00:21:29,071 --> 00:21:31,721 when a crumbling mountain tumbled 352 00:21:31,757 --> 00:21:33,327 into the nearby Madison River. 353 00:21:37,963 --> 00:21:40,503 Today, legions of ghost trees dot the lake. 354 00:21:42,901 --> 00:21:44,121 A stark reminder of 355 00:21:44,152 --> 00:21:47,142 how quickly the face of Yellowstone can change. 356 00:21:48,790 --> 00:21:51,510 (geyser growling) 357 00:21:53,929 --> 00:21:57,319 (water murmuring) 358 00:21:57,349 --> 00:21:59,999 Earthquakes, underground volcanoes, 359 00:22:00,035 --> 00:22:03,185 entire mountains rising and falling, 360 00:22:05,057 --> 00:22:07,177 and here I am getting rattled by an owl. 361 00:22:07,809 --> 00:22:10,429 (owl hooting) 362 00:22:12,681 --> 00:22:15,431 (creature yipping) 363 00:22:17,803 --> 00:22:20,443 (steady music) 364 00:22:25,861 --> 00:22:26,851 (bear grunts) 365 00:22:26,878 --> 00:22:27,878 (hawk screeches) 366 00:22:27,913 --> 00:22:31,123 (birds chirping) 367 00:22:32,734 --> 00:22:34,354 Despite the sleep deprivation 368 00:22:35,887 --> 00:22:37,487 the team continued on their mission. 369 00:22:40,425 --> 00:22:43,925 And on July 25th, they reached another stunning site: 370 00:22:43,962 --> 00:22:46,532 (waterfall roaring) 371 00:22:46,565 --> 00:22:47,715 Tower Falls. 372 00:22:47,749 --> 00:22:51,169 (music intensity increases) 373 00:22:55,824 --> 00:22:59,084 (waterfall roaring) 374 00:23:00,762 --> 00:23:02,202 A 132-foot drop 375 00:23:03,632 --> 00:23:06,352 (rapids rumbling) 376 00:23:09,137 --> 00:23:12,357 flanked on either side by eroded pillars of volcanic rock. 377 00:23:22,918 --> 00:23:26,138 (rapids rumbling) 378 00:23:29,141 --> 00:23:31,661 Two days later they reached the Upper Falls 379 00:23:31,693 --> 00:23:32,693 of the Yellowstone River. 380 00:23:32,727 --> 00:23:35,477 (suspenseful music) 381 00:23:41,853 --> 00:23:44,393 Teetering over a 109-foot drop, 382 00:23:51,813 --> 00:23:53,353 the precipice of Upper Falls marks 383 00:23:53,381 --> 00:23:56,701 a dramatic geological shift in the Yellowstone riverbed. 384 00:23:56,735 --> 00:23:59,395 (rapids rumbling) 385 00:24:01,022 --> 00:24:03,092 It's where hardened, water-resistant lava flows 386 00:24:04,726 --> 00:24:06,226 give way to softer rock, 387 00:24:10,465 --> 00:24:15,245 a boundary set by volcanic eruption over 450,000 years ago. 388 00:24:16,905 --> 00:24:20,175 (waterfall roaring) 389 00:24:22,360 --> 00:24:25,430 Hayden's team was humbled by the spectacle in front of them. 390 00:24:27,749 --> 00:24:30,399 (uneasy music) 391 00:24:31,353 --> 00:24:34,073 But waterfalls were not what they were seeking. 392 00:24:38,877 --> 00:24:40,047 They were looking for the source 393 00:24:40,078 --> 00:24:42,108 of the mighty Yellowstone River. 394 00:24:44,733 --> 00:24:45,983 And six miles upstream, 395 00:24:46,017 --> 00:24:48,847 (moves to resolute music) 396 00:24:48,887 --> 00:24:50,417 they found what they were after. 397 00:24:56,011 --> 00:24:59,451 On July 28, they arrived at Yellowstone Lake. 398 00:25:03,785 --> 00:25:07,135 At 7,732 feet above sea level 399 00:25:07,939 --> 00:25:10,479 and covering 136 square miles, 400 00:25:12,110 --> 00:25:15,200 it is the largest body of water in Yellowstone. 401 00:25:21,553 --> 00:25:24,823 In late July, Hayden and his men set up camp by the lake. 402 00:25:24,856 --> 00:25:28,856 (tranquil music) 403 00:25:28,894 --> 00:25:30,864 They could see the islands in the distance, 404 00:25:30,896 --> 00:25:32,226 but they didn't have a boat. 405 00:25:36,117 --> 00:25:38,497 When you're an explorer, your job is to explore. 406 00:25:38,537 --> 00:25:40,207 (geese honking) 407 00:25:40,238 --> 00:25:43,138 You don't have something you need, build it. 408 00:25:43,975 --> 00:25:45,235 You don't know how, 409 00:25:45,277 --> 00:25:47,177 you better figure it out pretty quick. 410 00:25:48,013 --> 00:25:49,453 And that's what they did. 411 00:25:50,532 --> 00:25:51,652 (birds chirping) 412 00:25:51,683 --> 00:25:54,253 (tree creaking) 413 00:25:55,854 --> 00:25:57,864 They used a fallen pine 414 00:25:57,889 --> 00:25:59,439 (crash booms) 415 00:25:59,474 --> 00:26:00,194 as the base 416 00:26:01,893 --> 00:26:04,103 and carved oars out of branches. 417 00:26:06,514 --> 00:26:08,024 Then they rigged up one 418 00:26:08,049 --> 00:26:11,139 of their blankets as a sail and named her Annie. 419 00:26:13,021 --> 00:26:15,011 They placed Annie in the lake 420 00:26:15,040 --> 00:26:17,140 and crossed their fingers that she'd hold. 421 00:26:19,010 --> 00:26:24,180 (water swashing) (swan honking) 422 00:26:26,968 --> 00:26:31,008 (contemplative music) 423 00:26:31,039 --> 00:26:34,089 It's the true spirit of an explorer, 424 00:26:37,012 --> 00:26:39,232 figuring things out on the fly, 425 00:26:41,032 --> 00:26:43,132 forging ahead with no safety net, 426 00:26:44,519 --> 00:26:46,039 no guarantee of success. 427 00:26:46,071 --> 00:26:50,431 (contemplative music continues) 428 00:26:50,458 --> 00:26:53,178 (birds chirping) 429 00:26:57,916 --> 00:26:59,246 When I was younger, 430 00:27:02,003 --> 00:27:05,123 I wanted so much to be on a lake by myself 431 00:27:08,743 --> 00:27:10,063 going somewhere 432 00:27:10,095 --> 00:27:13,895 that between the ages of 7 and 18 433 00:27:13,932 --> 00:27:15,872 I built three different canoes, 434 00:27:15,900 --> 00:27:17,540 and they all looked horrible. 435 00:27:17,569 --> 00:27:19,319 They were all handmade. 436 00:27:19,354 --> 00:27:22,844 But I took the last one I built down some of the rivers 437 00:27:22,874 --> 00:27:24,034 that Lewis and Clark went down, 438 00:27:24,059 --> 00:27:27,079 because it just spoke to me out loud. 439 00:27:31,082 --> 00:27:32,902 I was determined to be out there. 440 00:27:32,934 --> 00:27:36,194 (adventurous music) 441 00:27:37,839 --> 00:27:39,189 To experience the kind of thrill 442 00:27:39,224 --> 00:27:41,214 Hayden and his men must have felt, 443 00:27:44,929 --> 00:27:47,019 just get in a boat and go. 444 00:27:47,716 --> 00:27:50,336 (eagle plopping) 445 00:27:54,189 --> 00:27:56,509 What Hayden found as they sailed the Annie 446 00:27:58,309 --> 00:28:01,009 was an island they described as a jungle 447 00:28:02,397 --> 00:28:05,077 (elk squealing) 448 00:28:06,568 --> 00:28:07,948 full of wild game. 449 00:28:07,986 --> 00:28:12,086 (adventurous music continues) 450 00:28:19,114 --> 00:28:22,124 Want to know the best part about being an explorer? 451 00:28:22,150 --> 00:28:24,270 You get to name things after yourself. 452 00:28:25,186 --> 00:28:28,236 Jim Stevenson was the first one off the boat, 453 00:28:28,273 --> 00:28:31,163 so naturally they named it Stevenson's Island. 454 00:28:37,932 --> 00:28:39,722 Hayden raved about their discovery 455 00:28:39,751 --> 00:28:41,651 in a letter to the Smithsonian. 456 00:28:41,686 --> 00:28:45,286 (adventurous music continues) 457 00:28:47,242 --> 00:28:50,042 With a seaworthy boat at his disposal, 458 00:28:51,262 --> 00:28:54,202 Hayden wanted to explore and map the entire lake. 459 00:28:57,368 --> 00:29:00,108 The team sailed the Annie to six other islands 460 00:29:02,373 --> 00:29:05,713 naming each one after themselves or family members. 461 00:29:05,744 --> 00:29:09,354 (adventurous music continues) 462 00:29:17,405 --> 00:29:20,125 (birds chirping) 463 00:29:21,109 --> 00:29:23,089 After they finished mapping the lake, 464 00:29:26,231 --> 00:29:28,831 Hayden and his team pushed deeper into the strange land. 465 00:29:28,867 --> 00:29:31,397 (gentle music) 466 00:29:35,673 --> 00:29:37,063 They continued their mission 467 00:29:37,091 --> 00:29:39,081 of mapping a potential route for the railroad 468 00:29:39,110 --> 00:29:41,280 and collecting geological samples, 469 00:29:46,301 --> 00:29:49,271 some of which gave the team a sense that even John Colter 470 00:29:51,105 --> 00:29:53,155 was not the first to come here, 471 00:29:54,626 --> 00:29:56,126 not by a long shot. 472 00:29:57,879 --> 00:30:01,229 (fireplace crackling) 473 00:30:02,333 --> 00:30:05,343 One of the geological samples that Hayden collected was 474 00:30:05,370 --> 00:30:10,070 an insanely sharp hunk of geological glass called obsidian. 475 00:30:11,176 --> 00:30:13,276 That's what these spearpoints are made from. 476 00:30:15,997 --> 00:30:17,547 I can touch these, right? 477 00:30:17,582 --> 00:30:20,152 - [Staff Member] Yeah. 478 00:30:20,185 --> 00:30:23,285 - Obsidian was used by ancient peoples as weapons, 479 00:30:23,321 --> 00:30:27,391 because it can be made to be sharper than any modern razor. 480 00:30:28,827 --> 00:30:30,377 This one was found in New Mexico, 481 00:30:32,080 --> 00:30:35,380 and this one was found in Utah. 482 00:30:37,819 --> 00:30:38,469 And this one, 483 00:30:39,771 --> 00:30:42,141 this one was discovered in Ohio 484 00:30:43,007 --> 00:30:44,407 1,800 miles from here. 485 00:30:46,261 --> 00:30:48,311 You know what all these have in common? 486 00:30:49,447 --> 00:30:52,997 They all came from a single outcrop of obsidian 487 00:30:53,034 --> 00:30:54,824 that's right here in Yellowstone. 488 00:30:54,853 --> 00:30:57,493 (lava gurgling) 489 00:30:57,522 --> 00:31:00,512 Obsidian is formed when lava reaches the surface 490 00:31:00,542 --> 00:31:01,392 and cools rapidly. 491 00:31:04,929 --> 00:31:07,369 It usually breaks apart during this process, 492 00:31:09,217 --> 00:31:12,197 which is why it's typically found in small fragments. 493 00:31:16,424 --> 00:31:19,344 But Obsidian Cliff in northwest Yellowstone 494 00:31:21,179 --> 00:31:24,349 is a 200-foot tall outcrop of pure obsidian. 495 00:31:26,801 --> 00:31:28,491 It's a geological anomaly, 496 00:31:30,338 --> 00:31:32,668 and the mother lode for hunter-gatherers 497 00:31:32,707 --> 00:31:34,257 in need of some new spears. 498 00:31:36,294 --> 00:31:39,164 Some of these spearpoints are 11,000 years old. 499 00:31:40,915 --> 00:31:42,165 Think about that. 500 00:31:43,201 --> 00:31:46,101 11,000 years before Hayden was even born 501 00:31:46,137 --> 00:31:48,267 Indigenous Americans were using this land. 502 00:31:49,924 --> 00:31:51,514 I try to picture it, try to imagine 503 00:31:51,542 --> 00:31:54,412 what the first Indigenous people must have thought 504 00:31:54,445 --> 00:31:56,625 when they arrived here thousands of years ago. 505 00:31:56,664 --> 00:31:59,104 (stampede rumbling) 506 00:31:59,133 --> 00:32:00,853 Bison as far as the eye can see. 507 00:32:00,885 --> 00:32:03,465 (wondrous music) 508 00:32:07,675 --> 00:32:09,185 Wooly mammoths. 509 00:32:12,013 --> 00:32:15,473 The earth rising, breathing. 510 00:32:18,486 --> 00:32:21,206 (birds chirping) 511 00:32:23,841 --> 00:32:26,411 All the obsidian you could carry. 512 00:32:28,613 --> 00:32:29,383 Pretty cool. 513 00:32:32,850 --> 00:32:35,370 (perky music) 514 00:32:40,625 --> 00:32:43,745 (water burbling) 515 00:32:43,778 --> 00:32:45,648 The wooly mammoths are gone 516 00:32:45,680 --> 00:32:48,430 (waterfall roaring) 517 00:32:50,668 --> 00:32:53,268 (rapids rumbling) 518 00:32:53,304 --> 00:32:55,444 and roads and boardwalks have been built. 519 00:32:57,692 --> 00:33:00,452 (tourists chattering) 520 00:33:01,896 --> 00:33:03,356 But in so many ways, 521 00:33:03,398 --> 00:33:06,178 Yellowstone is very much the same place that it was 522 00:33:07,452 --> 00:33:10,372 when the first humans found it 11,000 years ago. 523 00:33:14,542 --> 00:33:17,162 (lush music) 524 00:33:19,163 --> 00:33:23,173 That's because at some point in August of 1871, 525 00:33:25,353 --> 00:33:28,313 Hayden and the 31 other men that followed him 526 00:33:29,374 --> 00:33:32,314 started to realize their mission to exploit the region 527 00:33:33,711 --> 00:33:35,401 was the wrong path. 528 00:33:35,430 --> 00:33:37,420 (elk bugles) 529 00:33:39,667 --> 00:33:42,397 (water murmuring) 530 00:33:43,504 --> 00:33:47,534 The samples they were collecting would have a new purpose, 531 00:33:47,558 --> 00:33:50,108 (mystifying music) 532 00:33:50,144 --> 00:33:52,654 documentation of a one of a kind place 533 00:33:52,680 --> 00:33:53,530 that needed to be preserved. 534 00:34:02,774 --> 00:34:04,984 They filled 45 large boxes with 535 00:34:05,009 --> 00:34:07,349 over a thousand specimens of minerals, 536 00:34:09,597 --> 00:34:13,247 plants, and animal pelts. 537 00:34:16,888 --> 00:34:18,758 They shipped them off to the Smithsonian 538 00:34:18,790 --> 00:34:20,360 to be organized and cataloged. 539 00:34:22,944 --> 00:34:24,504 Hayden was starting to build a case 540 00:34:26,047 --> 00:34:28,067 to convince the powers that be. 541 00:34:29,534 --> 00:34:31,754 (birds chirping) 542 00:34:31,786 --> 00:34:34,486 (bird screeching) 543 00:34:37,658 --> 00:34:40,308 (gentle music) 544 00:34:46,033 --> 00:34:50,203 On August 28, Hayden posted a field report 545 00:34:50,238 --> 00:34:52,418 announcing the completion of his survey. 546 00:34:59,113 --> 00:35:01,433 They'd finished their journey into Colter's Hell, 547 00:35:08,539 --> 00:35:09,419 conquered the terrain, 548 00:35:12,126 --> 00:35:14,006 and scientifically studied every inch 549 00:35:14,045 --> 00:35:15,405 of the Upper Yellowstone. 550 00:35:20,485 --> 00:35:23,485 But Hayden knew his greatest work was still ahead of him. 551 00:35:23,521 --> 00:35:25,041 (daunting music) 552 00:35:25,072 --> 00:35:27,392 He had to convince Congress 553 00:35:27,425 --> 00:35:29,835 and even the President of the United States 554 00:35:29,877 --> 00:35:32,127 to do something that no one anywhere 555 00:35:32,163 --> 00:35:34,433 in the world had ever done before: 556 00:35:36,450 --> 00:35:38,690 (birds chirping) 557 00:35:38,719 --> 00:35:41,419 protect a huge piece of land. 558 00:35:41,455 --> 00:35:43,605 (elk squeals) 559 00:35:43,641 --> 00:35:46,791 (water burbling) 560 00:35:46,828 --> 00:35:49,928 (wolf barks) 561 00:35:49,964 --> 00:35:52,104 Preserve it for future generations. 562 00:35:53,568 --> 00:35:55,838 (pups yelping) 563 00:35:55,870 --> 00:35:57,360 Don't let them mine. 564 00:35:58,773 --> 00:36:00,063 Don't let them build. 565 00:36:02,810 --> 00:36:04,750 Just let it be. 566 00:36:04,779 --> 00:36:07,469 (birds chirping) 567 00:36:13,421 --> 00:36:16,291 The phrase "a picture is worth a thousand words" 568 00:36:16,324 --> 00:36:20,434 wasn't unleashed into the ether until the 1920s. 569 00:36:20,461 --> 00:36:22,131 (gentle music) 570 00:36:22,163 --> 00:36:25,023 But I think Hayden knew what it meant long before that. 571 00:36:28,019 --> 00:36:29,719 He knew that all the words in the report 572 00:36:29,754 --> 00:36:30,894 that he was planning to present 573 00:36:30,922 --> 00:36:34,042 to Congress were just that, words. 574 00:36:35,259 --> 00:36:39,299 So as he made his pitch to preserve Yellowstone, 575 00:36:40,748 --> 00:36:42,328 he saturated members of Congress 576 00:36:42,366 --> 00:36:45,396 with the photographs that William Henry Jackson had taken, 577 00:36:48,539 --> 00:36:51,279 (projector clicking) 578 00:36:51,309 --> 00:36:53,479 watercolors that Thomas Moran had painted. 579 00:36:59,016 --> 00:37:02,146 Suddenly, Colter's Hell wasn't just the work 580 00:37:02,186 --> 00:37:04,266 of one mountain man's imagination. 581 00:37:05,907 --> 00:37:07,327 It was all very real. 582 00:37:09,927 --> 00:37:11,977 And enough members of Congress 583 00:37:12,013 --> 00:37:14,153 and the Senate saw the beauty in this place 584 00:37:14,181 --> 00:37:17,101 to pass the Yellowstone Park Bill 585 00:37:19,353 --> 00:37:20,473 in record time. 586 00:37:20,504 --> 00:37:23,114 (inspired music) 587 00:37:25,509 --> 00:37:28,709 It was signed into law by President Ulysses S. Grant 588 00:37:28,746 --> 00:37:31,376 on March 1st, 1872, 589 00:37:33,317 --> 00:37:36,617 and the planet's first national park was created. 590 00:37:36,654 --> 00:37:39,464 (tourists chattering) 591 00:37:45,513 --> 00:37:49,103 Today, about 4 million people visit Yellowstone each year. 592 00:37:53,804 --> 00:37:56,114 And in the 150 years 593 00:37:57,725 --> 00:37:58,835 since Hayden did what he did, 594 00:37:58,876 --> 00:38:02,006 (sprightly music) 595 00:38:02,046 --> 00:38:05,446 422 more parks have been created in the US 596 00:38:08,936 --> 00:38:12,016 spanning 84 million acres of pristine land. 597 00:38:15,793 --> 00:38:17,303 Countries all over the world 598 00:38:18,312 --> 00:38:20,402 looked at what was done here and thought, 599 00:38:21,832 --> 00:38:23,992 "Hey, that's a pretty good idea." 600 00:38:24,018 --> 00:38:28,588 (music intensity increases) 601 00:38:28,622 --> 00:38:30,342 (elephant bellows) 602 00:38:30,374 --> 00:38:33,944 There are now 4,000 national parks worldwide. 603 00:38:33,978 --> 00:38:37,478 (sea creature vocalizing) 604 00:38:39,667 --> 00:38:41,417 15% of the earth's land 605 00:38:46,824 --> 00:38:48,494 and 10% of the waters are protected. 606 00:38:54,415 --> 00:38:57,025 (crash booms) 607 00:39:00,521 --> 00:39:03,271 (gentle music) 608 00:39:03,307 --> 00:39:05,807 The National Park Service has been deemed 609 00:39:05,843 --> 00:39:07,413 America's best idea, 610 00:39:09,630 --> 00:39:11,600 (bear grunts) 611 00:39:11,632 --> 00:39:12,402 but really 612 00:39:15,052 --> 00:39:17,342 it seems like the world's best idea. 613 00:39:19,357 --> 00:39:22,087 (birds chirping) 614 00:39:23,844 --> 00:39:25,504 I think we'd all like to dream 615 00:39:25,529 --> 00:39:28,629 that we can leave the world a better place than we found it. 616 00:39:28,666 --> 00:39:31,346 (inspired music) 617 00:39:33,454 --> 00:39:36,174 (geyser growling) 618 00:39:39,543 --> 00:39:42,133 (bison bellows) 619 00:39:44,065 --> 00:39:45,895 This is the story of some people who did. 620 00:39:45,933 --> 00:39:57,993 (inspired music continues) 621 00:39:58,043 --> 00:40:02,593 Repair and Synchronization by Easy Subtitles Synchronizer 1.0.0.0 44060

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