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00:00:32,060 --> 00:00:37,139
The sun is absent for up to
half the year in the polar regions.
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00:00:37,140 --> 00:00:40,779
When it returns,
at the beginning of spring,
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00:00:40,780 --> 00:00:44,780
its warmth will transform
this magical ice world.
4
00:01:04,300 --> 00:01:09,180
The greatest seasonal change
on our planet is now underway.
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00:01:16,180 --> 00:01:23,019
Antarctica is still locked in ice,
and surrounded by a frozen ocean.
6
00:01:23,020 --> 00:01:25,460
Nonetheless,
there are signs of spring.
7
00:01:32,860 --> 00:01:37,019
Adelie penguins are arriving ...
just the males.
8
00:01:37,020 --> 00:01:41,179
They've spent five months at sea,
where it's warmer than it is on land
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00:01:41,180 --> 00:01:46,140
and now they're in a hurry,
for spring will be short.
10
00:01:52,620 --> 00:01:55,899
They have travelled 6,000 miles
across the ocean
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00:01:55,900 --> 00:01:58,139
since leaving their colony
last year,
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00:01:58,140 --> 00:02:01,259
and now
they're returning to breed.
13
00:02:01,260 --> 00:02:04,459
They cannot lay their eggs on ice,
for they would freeze,
14
00:02:04,460 --> 00:02:08,380
so they have to come here,
where there is bare rock.
15
00:02:12,460 --> 00:02:13,939
Over the coming months,
16
00:02:13,940 --> 00:02:16,739
the few parts of Antarctica
that are ice-free
17
00:02:16,740 --> 00:02:20,499
will be the stage
on which five million Adelies
18
00:02:20,500 --> 00:02:22,460
will build their nests.
19
00:02:28,220 --> 00:02:32,819
To construct one, they need pebbles,
and without a good-looking nest,
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00:02:32,820 --> 00:02:36,699
a male will be unable
to attract a female,
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00:02:36,700 --> 00:02:38,859
when they at last arrive.
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00:02:38,860 --> 00:02:42,940
An impressive property
demonstrates your worth as a mate.
23
00:02:46,300 --> 00:02:50,379
It takes stones of all shapes
and sizes to build a decent nest,
24
00:02:50,380 --> 00:02:53,740
and finding ones
that are just right is not easy.
25
00:02:58,940 --> 00:03:01,860
So some penguins
turn to a life of crime.
26
00:03:41,180 --> 00:03:43,899
The one who has been robbed
seems unaware
27
00:03:43,900 --> 00:03:48,100
that the thief is just over
his shoulder, and looking for more.
28
00:03:57,660 --> 00:04:00,859
The thief's nest
is coming along nicely,
29
00:04:00,860 --> 00:04:04,059
probably because he keeps
a particularly sharp lookout
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00:04:04,060 --> 00:04:06,219
for robbers...
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00:04:06,220 --> 00:04:08,820
after all,
it takes one to know one.
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00:04:18,100 --> 00:04:21,099
It's still cold,
but the early season sun
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00:04:21,100 --> 00:04:24,139
does lift the temperature
by a few degrees.
34
00:04:24,140 --> 00:04:29,100
That, however, can have unexpected,
even dangerous consequences.
35
00:04:36,500 --> 00:04:38,899
The sea is heating faster
than the land,
36
00:04:38,900 --> 00:04:43,180
pulling cold air from the middle
of the continent towards the coast.
37
00:04:47,780 --> 00:04:52,379
These katabatic winds
are stronger than any hurricane.
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00:04:52,380 --> 00:04:56,260
They are the coldest and
the most ferocious on the planet.
39
00:05:05,220 --> 00:05:08,779
The storms catch
many new arrivals by surprise,
40
00:05:08,780 --> 00:05:12,580
and are the reason that spring here
is, in fact, the deadliest season.
41
00:05:38,300 --> 00:05:41,820
Here, early birds take a great risk.
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00:05:45,220 --> 00:05:48,259
Some years,
entire colonies are lost,
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00:05:48,260 --> 00:05:50,219
buried beneath the snow.
44
00:05:50,220 --> 00:05:52,739
The survivors of this storm
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00:05:52,740 --> 00:05:55,459
must hope that the females
prove to be worth the wait
46
00:05:55,460 --> 00:05:57,860
when they finally decide to turn up.
47
00:06:06,300 --> 00:06:08,660
Spring in the north of our planet.
48
00:06:10,020 --> 00:06:12,739
The sun, after an absence
of six months,
49
00:06:12,740 --> 00:06:16,380
breaks the horizon
for the first time.
50
00:06:24,980 --> 00:06:29,899
A female polar bear emerges
from her den beneath the snow.
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00:06:29,900 --> 00:06:33,540
The sun must be a welcome relief
after so long in the darkness.
52
00:06:39,660 --> 00:06:42,299
Her den is on a high slope,
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00:06:42,300 --> 00:06:46,899
well away from hungry male bears
who would kill her cubs,
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00:06:46,900 --> 00:06:50,579
but close enough to the sea ice
where she can find food
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00:06:50,580 --> 00:06:52,940
for her extraordinary new family...
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00:06:58,540 --> 00:07:00,180
three young cubs.
57
00:07:06,300 --> 00:07:09,739
If she can raise them all
to independence,
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00:07:09,740 --> 00:07:12,500
it'll be a rare achievement.
59
00:07:32,980 --> 00:07:35,259
One of the cubs is underweight,
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00:07:35,260 --> 00:07:39,580
and will be fortunate
to survive these early weeks.
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00:07:54,460 --> 00:07:59,979
If the family reaches the sea ice,
where the female can catch seals,
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00:07:59,980 --> 00:08:01,739
her milk will be enriched,
63
00:08:01,740 --> 00:08:05,340
and the smaller cub will
quickly gain size and strength.
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00:08:07,700 --> 00:08:11,580
The sea ice, though,
is a dangerous place.
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00:08:24,220 --> 00:08:28,459
The male polar bear has been out
on the frozen ocean all winter.
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00:08:28,460 --> 00:08:30,499
Times have been lean,
67
00:08:30,500 --> 00:08:33,739
and a bear cub would certainly
make a welcome snack.
68
00:08:33,740 --> 00:08:36,779
However, the mainstay
of his diet is seals,
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00:08:36,780 --> 00:08:39,780
and now is the time
when they have their pups.
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00:08:42,900 --> 00:08:46,459
The surface of the frozen sea
is marked with pressure ridges,
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00:08:46,460 --> 00:08:49,540
and cracks created
by the fluctuating tides.
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00:08:52,380 --> 00:08:54,980
Both are good places
to look for seals.
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00:09:03,380 --> 00:09:06,420
He has detected a seal den
beneath the ice.
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00:09:07,860 --> 00:09:12,620
Now he must pin-point it, using only
his extraordinary sense of smell.
75
00:09:17,220 --> 00:09:20,700
By treading lightly,
he can avoid scaring his prey.
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00:09:25,380 --> 00:09:29,379
He will need to punch through
a metre of snow to reach the den,
77
00:09:29,380 --> 00:09:32,419
and if his aim
is not exactly on target,
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00:09:32,420 --> 00:09:34,620
the seal will certainly escape.
79
00:10:10,420 --> 00:10:14,179
In fact, the ringed seal
abandoned her den
80
00:10:14,180 --> 00:10:16,179
just a few hours ago
81
00:10:16,180 --> 00:10:19,019
and her pup has climbed up
onto the surface.
82
00:10:19,020 --> 00:10:23,220
It's more exposed up here, but it's
easier to see an approaching bear.
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00:10:37,300 --> 00:10:39,819
The pup is well camouflaged.
84
00:10:39,820 --> 00:10:43,180
Difficult to see when its mother
has left it to go fishing.
85
00:10:50,260 --> 00:10:52,580
But he can still smell it.
86
00:11:21,620 --> 00:11:25,220
Nine out of ten polar bear hunts
end in failure.
87
00:11:31,860 --> 00:11:34,619
The sun's warming effect
on the Arctic is increasing
88
00:11:34,620 --> 00:11:38,340
and the sea ice is showing
the first signs of weakening.
89
00:11:42,860 --> 00:11:46,860
Inland, the northern rivers
are still locked in ice.
90
00:11:49,220 --> 00:11:52,059
The frozen waterfalls are like dams
91
00:11:52,060 --> 00:11:55,099
holding back billions of tonnes
of fresh water
92
00:11:55,100 --> 00:11:57,860
that has not moved
for almost six months.
93
00:12:01,060 --> 00:12:04,379
The vast water shed lies motionless,
94
00:12:04,380 --> 00:12:08,780
but as spring advances,
it beings to stir.
95
00:12:13,860 --> 00:12:17,459
The frozen waterfalls
start to weaken.
96
00:12:17,460 --> 00:12:20,260
Above them,
the pressure is mounting.
97
00:12:25,260 --> 00:12:29,860
Now, from high above, whole sections
can be seen to be on the move.
98
00:12:38,540 --> 00:12:42,299
The waterfalls are straining
to hold back the force
99
00:12:42,300 --> 00:12:44,420
that is building up above them.
100
00:12:51,980 --> 00:12:54,899
The dam bursts...
101
00:12:54,900 --> 00:12:57,020
and the river is unleashed.
102
00:13:24,980 --> 00:13:28,579
Millions of tonnes of ice
grind their way downstream,
103
00:13:28,580 --> 00:13:32,620
driven by the unstoppable force
of the meltwater.
104
00:13:41,300 --> 00:13:44,780
Boulders and trees are plucked
from the bank side.
105
00:13:47,300 --> 00:13:52,019
Within just a few days, the rivers
of the north are all running.
106
00:13:52,020 --> 00:13:55,860
The Arctic's fresh water
is flowing again.
107
00:14:06,820 --> 00:14:11,059
These vast floods contain
10% of the world's fresh water
108
00:14:11,060 --> 00:14:16,339
and as they enter the ocean,
they accelerate the break-up.
109
00:14:16,340 --> 00:14:18,899
Soon, an area of sea ice
the size of Australia
110
00:14:18,900 --> 00:14:22,300
will vanish from the Arctic Ocean.
111
00:14:28,660 --> 00:14:33,660
As the huge ice-sheet breaks up,
wildlife returns to the North.
112
00:14:44,900 --> 00:14:48,939
The polar bear mother has made it
to the edge of the sea-ice,
113
00:14:48,940 --> 00:14:51,940
but the smallest cub
is nowhere to be seen.
114
00:14:54,420 --> 00:14:56,779
It's a sad outcome,
115
00:14:56,780 --> 00:15:00,019
but the disappearance improves
the chances of the remaining two,
116
00:15:00,020 --> 00:15:03,340
who now have more milk to share.
117
00:15:06,260 --> 00:15:09,339
Having led her cubs
to the edge of the ice,
118
00:15:09,340 --> 00:15:12,660
the mother's next challenge
is to catch a seal.
119
00:15:17,620 --> 00:15:20,500
Not easy with these two in tow!
120
00:15:35,100 --> 00:15:39,259
Her prey beneath the ice
can detect the slightest vibration,
121
00:15:39,260 --> 00:15:41,259
especially from bears.
122
00:15:41,260 --> 00:15:45,139
And this is not
the stealthiest of hunting parties.
123
00:15:52,980 --> 00:15:56,899
Leaving her cubs behind however,
is not an option...
124
00:15:56,900 --> 00:16:00,060
a male bear would eat one
in a moment.
125
00:16:06,260 --> 00:16:09,140
This is not going to be easy.
126
00:16:20,020 --> 00:16:26,299
It seems that the cubs already
see themselves as fearsome hunters,
127
00:16:26,300 --> 00:16:31,699
but they're still young enough
to accept their mother's discipline.
128
00:16:31,700 --> 00:16:33,780
It's the naughty corner for you!
129
00:16:54,180 --> 00:16:57,579
This is not going to be
their lucky morning.
130
00:16:57,580 --> 00:17:02,019
They saw no sign of a seal
and the cubs are hungry again.
131
00:17:02,020 --> 00:17:06,579
The mother has been nursing for four
months without once eating herself,
132
00:17:06,580 --> 00:17:08,660
and now her milk is drying up.
133
00:17:10,180 --> 00:17:14,460
She must catch a seal soon,
or the whole family will starve.
134
00:17:19,060 --> 00:17:22,419
The challenge of finding food
is getting harder.
135
00:17:22,420 --> 00:17:25,419
She needs the sea-ice
as a platform from which to hunt
136
00:17:25,420 --> 00:17:28,820
and it's breaking up faster
with each passing day.
137
00:17:32,180 --> 00:17:35,740
Even the ice around the coast
is starting to break.
138
00:17:37,500 --> 00:17:41,500
The first cracks here
are eagerly awaited by some...
139
00:17:52,860 --> 00:17:54,260
narwhals.
140
00:17:58,540 --> 00:18:01,099
The unicorns of the North
are on a mission...
141
00:18:01,100 --> 00:18:02,819
to reach the new fishing grounds
142
00:18:02,820 --> 00:18:07,980
in the bays that have been frozen-up
all winter, but are now opening up.
143
00:18:16,340 --> 00:18:19,259
To get to them, the narwhals
must travel down leads...
144
00:18:19,260 --> 00:18:22,419
temporary cracks in the ice.
145
00:18:22,420 --> 00:18:26,939
But these new roads
could close at any time,
146
00:18:26,940 --> 00:18:29,300
cutting off the air
that they need to breathe.
147
00:18:32,940 --> 00:18:38,339
The road narrows until there's
barely room for one-way traffic.
148
00:18:38,340 --> 00:18:40,419
Then, a surprise...
149
00:18:40,420 --> 00:18:43,860
narwhals coming
from the other direction.
150
00:18:47,980 --> 00:18:50,419
It's a stand-off.
151
00:18:50,420 --> 00:18:54,020
Each team faces an armoury
of sharp tusks.
152
00:19:11,700 --> 00:19:15,059
Finally, one side concedes
153
00:19:15,060 --> 00:19:18,620
and everyone continues
in the same direction.
154
00:19:25,980 --> 00:19:30,499
Within a week, the remaining bays
break wide open,
155
00:19:30,500 --> 00:19:35,060
and the narwhals turn
their attention to social matters.
156
00:19:42,260 --> 00:19:46,179
No-one knows exactly what
the narwhal's tusk is for.
157
00:19:46,180 --> 00:19:48,339
Some say it's used for fencing,
158
00:19:48,340 --> 00:19:52,140
yet these exchanges are too gentle
to be real fights.
159
00:20:07,660 --> 00:20:09,299
Perhaps these encounters
160
00:20:09,300 --> 00:20:14,540
are to remind each animal of
where it stands in Narwhal society.
161
00:20:16,380 --> 00:20:17,980
We may never know.
162
00:20:33,260 --> 00:20:36,660
Bizarre creatures appear
as if from nowhere.
163
00:20:38,420 --> 00:20:42,699
The tiny plankton they eat have been
fuelled by the increasing warmth
164
00:20:42,700 --> 00:20:46,099
of the sun
and fertilised by the nutrients
165
00:20:46,100 --> 00:20:50,100
brought down by the great rivers and
released from the melting sea-ice.
166
00:20:52,260 --> 00:20:55,579
Sea gooseberries strain the water
with their stinging filaments,
167
00:20:55,580 --> 00:20:59,259
their beating cilia
scatter the sun's rays
168
00:20:59,260 --> 00:21:01,220
into dazzling bursts of colour.
169
00:21:08,700 --> 00:21:12,779
Beneath the breaking sea ice,
a predatory sea slug
170
00:21:12,780 --> 00:21:16,659
flies through the water
on translucent wings.
171
00:21:16,660 --> 00:21:20,020
It's on the trail
of a peculiar swimming snail.
172
00:21:32,860 --> 00:21:35,979
And now the most voracious
of the plankton-eaters
173
00:21:35,980 --> 00:21:38,019
swim up from the depths...
174
00:21:38,020 --> 00:21:40,140
Arctic cod.
175
00:21:46,860 --> 00:21:52,019
The shoals can be enormous,
some containing 500 million fish
176
00:21:52,020 --> 00:21:56,740
and predators travel hundreds
of miles to feast on them.
177
00:21:59,060 --> 00:22:02,059
The cod harvest is THE annual event
178
00:22:02,060 --> 00:22:04,420
for the birds and seals
of the far North.
179
00:22:08,660 --> 00:22:10,899
For just a short period,
180
00:22:10,900 --> 00:22:14,819
the combination of the strengthening
sun, the newly-flowing rivers
181
00:22:14,820 --> 00:22:20,460
and the breaking sea ice make
the Arctic Ocean teem with life.
182
00:22:27,300 --> 00:22:31,260
The land is also transformed
by the sun's heat.
183
00:22:33,300 --> 00:22:37,779
The small patches of bare ground
that appear are darker than the snow
184
00:22:37,780 --> 00:22:40,700
so they absorb more
of the sun's energy.
185
00:22:42,220 --> 00:22:44,660
This accelerates the melt.
186
00:22:52,740 --> 00:22:55,860
The Arctic tundra is unveiled.
187
00:23:04,140 --> 00:23:08,779
By tracking the sun, Arctic poppies
catch its rays around the clock,
188
00:23:08,780 --> 00:23:13,100
so their flowers are always warmer
than their surroundings.
189
00:23:18,340 --> 00:23:23,659
For early season insects,
this warmth is even more valuable
190
00:23:23,660 --> 00:23:26,820
than nectar if they're
to stay active in the cold.
191
00:23:37,020 --> 00:23:40,539
The woolly bear caterpillar does not
need the warmth from flowers
192
00:23:40,540 --> 00:23:42,179
to kick-start its spring.
193
00:23:42,180 --> 00:23:46,379
It's always the first insect
to appear after the snow retreats
194
00:23:46,380 --> 00:23:50,220
and the story of how it does so
is truly astonishing.
195
00:23:53,900 --> 00:23:58,099
At the start of spring, the
caterpillar eats as fast as it can,
196
00:23:58,100 --> 00:24:03,140
as indeed it must, for this far
north, the season will be brief.
197
00:24:04,780 --> 00:24:08,499
The days shorten only too soon,
but the caterpillar has not yet
198
00:24:08,500 --> 00:24:13,259
got enough reserves
to transform itself into a moth.
199
00:24:13,260 --> 00:24:16,299
It can't leave the Arctic,
for it can't fly,
200
00:24:16,300 --> 00:24:19,380
so it settles down beneath a rock.
201
00:24:21,140 --> 00:24:23,580
The sun's warmth rapidly dwindles.
202
00:24:29,700 --> 00:24:32,739
Beneath the rock, the caterpillar
is out of the wind,
203
00:24:32,740 --> 00:24:35,820
but the cold penetrates
deep into the ground.
204
00:24:37,540 --> 00:24:40,019
Soon, its heart stops beating.
205
00:24:40,020 --> 00:24:45,339
It ceases to breathe,
and its body starts to freeze...
206
00:24:45,340 --> 00:24:48,260
first its gut, then its blood.
207
00:25:11,380 --> 00:25:13,899
Spring.
208
00:25:13,900 --> 00:25:20,220
After four months of darkness,
the Arctic begins to thaw.
209
00:25:22,340 --> 00:25:25,700
And the caterpillar
rises from the dead.
210
00:25:35,420 --> 00:25:37,699
By the time the first shoots
of willow appear
211
00:25:37,700 --> 00:25:40,540
in the early spring, the woolly bear
is already eating.
212
00:25:42,820 --> 00:25:46,899
But no matter how fast the woolly
bear eats, it will not have time
213
00:25:46,900 --> 00:25:49,339
to gather enough food
this year, either,
214
00:25:49,340 --> 00:25:52,900
and the cold closes in once again.
215
00:26:14,780 --> 00:26:18,099
Year after year, the caterpillar
slows down in the autumn
216
00:26:18,100 --> 00:26:20,740
and then freezes solid.
217
00:26:28,660 --> 00:26:32,660
But eventually,
a very special spring arrives.
218
00:26:36,300 --> 00:26:38,740
This one will be its last.
219
00:26:44,820 --> 00:26:49,699
It's now 14 years old ...
the world's oldest caterpillar.
220
00:26:49,700 --> 00:26:52,819
Its remaining days
now become frantic.
221
00:26:52,820 --> 00:26:55,900
It starts to weave a silk cocoon.
222
00:26:58,580 --> 00:27:04,059
Inside, its body is changing
into one that can fly and search,
223
00:27:04,060 --> 00:27:08,300
abilities that will be crucial
in the days ahead.
224
00:27:10,660 --> 00:27:15,020
It's waited over a decade for this
spring and now, its time is near.
225
00:27:20,220 --> 00:27:23,779
All across the Arctic,
moths are emerging.
226
00:27:23,780 --> 00:27:27,579
After completing
their 14-year preparation,
227
00:27:27,580 --> 00:27:31,540
they now have just a few days
to find a partner and mate.
228
00:27:36,660 --> 00:27:41,699
No life illustrates more vividly
the shortness of the Arctic spring
229
00:27:41,700 --> 00:27:46,900
or the struggle to survive
in this most seasonal of places.
230
00:27:55,460 --> 00:27:57,259
As spring advances,
231
00:27:57,260 --> 00:28:00,340
the transformation
of the tundra continues.
232
00:28:51,220 --> 00:28:53,339
Migrants begin arriving
from the south
233
00:28:53,340 --> 00:28:58,860
and suddenly the tundra
is alive with birds and chicks.
234
00:29:13,260 --> 00:29:16,780
The Arctic's transformation
is complete.
235
00:29:23,060 --> 00:29:28,900
This influx of life is good news
for some permanent residents.
236
00:29:35,060 --> 00:29:38,259
Food is rarely plentiful
out on the tundra.
237
00:29:38,260 --> 00:29:43,460
The Arctic wolves must make the most
of this boom while it lasts.
238
00:30:39,180 --> 00:30:42,859
The wolves must gather
as much food as they can.
239
00:30:42,860 --> 00:30:47,379
Many miles from here, other members
of the pack are relying on them.
240
00:31:00,820 --> 00:31:04,019
This barren landscape is a hard
place to make a living,
241
00:31:04,020 --> 00:31:08,060
forcing wolf packs to be smaller
here than further south.
242
00:31:15,220 --> 00:31:17,619
Six hungry mouths to feed.
243
00:31:17,620 --> 00:31:20,699
The cubs are just over a month old.
244
00:31:31,860 --> 00:31:36,099
The ducks are devoured instantly,
but on the long journey home,
245
00:31:36,100 --> 00:31:40,379
they also caught an Arctic hare,
a mainstay of the tundra diet,
246
00:31:40,380 --> 00:31:43,660
and one the cubs
seem to be particularly keen on.
247
00:31:53,220 --> 00:31:55,779
Uneaten food is usually hidden
for leaner times,
248
00:31:55,780 --> 00:31:59,659
but there will be
no leftovers today.
249
00:31:59,660 --> 00:32:02,900
The cubs are growing fast
and are always hungry.
250
00:32:19,100 --> 00:32:24,059
The good times are certainly back,
but these white wolves remind us
251
00:32:24,060 --> 00:32:26,580
of the Arctic's less welcoming side.
252
00:32:28,380 --> 00:32:32,540
Their coats are pale to conceal them
during the long, snowy winter.
253
00:32:35,380 --> 00:32:37,979
It's easy to forget
that one month ago,
254
00:32:37,980 --> 00:32:40,980
this land was a barren,
white desert.
255
00:32:49,460 --> 00:32:51,939
At the southern end of our planet,
256
00:32:51,940 --> 00:32:56,060
the Antarctic sea ice
is still at its greatest extent.
257
00:32:57,900 --> 00:33:01,259
But there are a few islands
on its outer edge
258
00:33:01,260 --> 00:33:03,860
that the sea ice
never quite reaches.
259
00:33:07,620 --> 00:33:12,219
South Georgia is washed by the rich
waters of the Southern Atlantic
260
00:33:12,220 --> 00:33:14,619
and the comparative warmth
of the sea
261
00:33:14,620 --> 00:33:17,420
takes the edge off
the vicious southern winter.
262
00:33:25,340 --> 00:33:29,099
It's even possible
for a few hardy animals,
263
00:33:29,100 --> 00:33:33,860
like the Wandering Albatross, to
live here throughout the whole year.
264
00:33:42,940 --> 00:33:47,699
The enormous Albatross chicks
take 13 months to fledge,
265
00:33:47,700 --> 00:33:51,659
so they have no choice but
to sit here throughout the winter.
266
00:33:51,660 --> 00:33:54,659
It can't be easy,
but the thick layer of fluffy down
267
00:33:54,660 --> 00:33:56,780
keeps out the worst of the cold.
268
00:33:58,060 --> 00:34:02,059
Their parents travel thousands
of miles to collect the fish
269
00:34:02,060 --> 00:34:04,980
and squid they need
to stay warm and to grow.
270
00:34:14,260 --> 00:34:19,940
The season is turning and storms
blow in with little warning.
271
00:34:28,260 --> 00:34:31,900
King penguins have also been here
all winter.
272
00:34:36,260 --> 00:34:40,099
Their chicks survive by huddling
in creches to conserve their heat.
273
00:34:40,100 --> 00:34:45,779
A solitary bird here standing alone
would quickly die of exposure.
274
00:34:45,780 --> 00:34:51,059
It seems for a hardy few, violent
storms are a price worth paying
275
00:34:51,060 --> 00:34:56,140
for year-round fishing in the
rich waters of the southern ocean.
276
00:35:02,580 --> 00:35:06,219
The penguins have had the beach
to themselves all winter,
277
00:35:06,220 --> 00:35:09,860
but that is a luxury
that will not last.
278
00:35:16,220 --> 00:35:21,020
As the winter storms subside,
life begins to return.
279
00:35:31,940 --> 00:35:35,659
For half of the year, South Georgia
has the greatest concentration
280
00:35:35,660 --> 00:35:38,179
of sea birds in the world
281
00:35:38,180 --> 00:35:41,380
and most of them arrive
in the early spring.
282
00:35:48,620 --> 00:35:52,419
Macaroni penguins make
the most impressive entrance...
283
00:35:52,420 --> 00:35:54,699
over five million pairs of them.
284
00:35:54,700 --> 00:35:57,339
They are the world's
most numerous penguin
285
00:35:57,340 --> 00:35:59,660
and half of them are now here.
286
00:36:01,580 --> 00:36:03,340
The arrival is complete.
287
00:36:08,220 --> 00:36:12,420
Courtship is next on South Georgia's
busy spring schedule.
288
00:36:18,540 --> 00:36:22,419
The Wandering Albatross
has the most elaborate display.
289
00:36:28,460 --> 00:36:32,580
These two are renewing their bonds
after being months apart.
290
00:36:38,020 --> 00:36:40,019
Wanderers pair up in their teens
291
00:36:40,020 --> 00:36:42,619
and can spend
a further 50 years together...
292
00:36:42,620 --> 00:36:46,180
one of the longest partnerships
in the animal world.
293
00:37:11,500 --> 00:37:14,299
By the middle of spring,
the snows have cleared
294
00:37:14,300 --> 00:37:17,539
from the coves and the low ground.
295
00:37:17,540 --> 00:37:20,419
The beaches are almost free
of ice too,
296
00:37:20,420 --> 00:37:24,579
but that isn't the biggest change
facing the king penguins.
297
00:37:24,580 --> 00:37:31,380
Their peaceful waterfront has turned
into an obstacle course of blubber.
298
00:37:33,860 --> 00:37:36,220
The elephant seals have arrived.
299
00:37:38,900 --> 00:37:41,899
This beach now contains
a greater mass of animals
300
00:37:41,900 --> 00:37:44,460
than any other in the world.
301
00:37:55,220 --> 00:37:58,579
The young seals
were conceived here a year ago,
302
00:37:58,580 --> 00:38:00,939
and now that they've been born,
303
00:38:00,940 --> 00:38:03,380
their mothers are ready
to mate again.
304
00:38:04,940 --> 00:38:10,459
The mating rights on this patch of
the beach belong to a beach master.
305
00:38:10,460 --> 00:38:13,659
His harem contains 50 females...
306
00:38:13,660 --> 00:38:16,340
females that are coveted by others.
307
00:38:19,540 --> 00:38:21,980
His authority is being challenged.
308
00:38:27,140 --> 00:38:29,660
This rival means business.
309
00:38:42,100 --> 00:38:45,179
This could be the beach master's
first serious test
310
00:38:45,180 --> 00:38:47,260
of his spring campaign.
311
00:38:55,420 --> 00:38:59,739
The beach master himself
weighs four tonnes,
312
00:38:59,740 --> 00:39:02,140
but this rival is his equal.
313
00:39:16,980 --> 00:39:20,979
When these titans clash,
314
00:39:20,980 --> 00:39:22,660
bones crunch.
315
00:40:04,980 --> 00:40:07,139
He has won the first battle,
316
00:40:07,140 --> 00:40:11,580
but he may have to defend his harem
every hour for the next month.
317
00:40:13,220 --> 00:40:16,939
If he can stay master
of his beach for this period,
318
00:40:16,940 --> 00:40:20,180
many of the young born here
next year will be his.
319
00:40:24,740 --> 00:40:28,059
It's the end of spring on
the Wandering Albatross's cliffs,
320
00:40:28,060 --> 00:40:30,939
their season for fledging.
321
00:40:30,940 --> 00:40:33,819
Last year's chicks
have lost their fluffy down
322
00:40:33,820 --> 00:40:38,300
and step up to the challenge
of getting into the air.
323
00:40:50,380 --> 00:40:54,979
An albatross is not very
competent on the ground,
324
00:40:54,980 --> 00:40:58,739
so until it can fly,
it isn't good for much
325
00:40:58,740 --> 00:41:00,499
and this makes the maiden flight
326
00:41:00,500 --> 00:41:03,340
The crucial event
in an albatross's life.
327
00:41:08,980 --> 00:41:12,380
Managing the largest wing span
in the world takes practice...
328
00:41:15,020 --> 00:41:16,820
lots of it.
329
00:41:34,660 --> 00:41:36,699
Weeks can go by like this.
330
00:41:36,700 --> 00:41:40,579
Certainly the winds must be right,
but it does appear that for some,
331
00:41:40,580 --> 00:41:43,780
the problem is something
of a mental one.
332
00:41:57,980 --> 00:41:59,620
At last.
333
00:42:07,460 --> 00:42:09,379
The Southern Ocean beckons.
334
00:42:09,380 --> 00:42:14,420
This bird's feet will not touch land
again for five years.
335
00:42:19,220 --> 00:42:21,299
1,000 miles further south,
336
00:42:21,300 --> 00:42:24,179
on the edge
of the Antarctic continent,
337
00:42:24,180 --> 00:42:27,739
the sea ice is only just
starting to break.
338
00:42:27,740 --> 00:42:32,779
But the Adelie penguin's activities
are certainly warming up.
339
00:42:32,780 --> 00:42:37,099
The males have now finished
their nests by fair means or foul
340
00:42:37,100 --> 00:42:41,219
and the females
are finally returning,
341
00:42:41,220 --> 00:42:44,379
just as the weather is improving.
342
00:42:44,380 --> 00:42:46,699
Now their courtship can begin.
343
00:43:44,740 --> 00:43:48,579
The eggs are laid and the females
leave the job of incubating them
344
00:43:48,580 --> 00:43:52,540
to the males, while they go fishing
out on the fragmenting sea ice.
345
00:44:03,500 --> 00:44:04,940
Killer whales.
346
00:44:12,820 --> 00:44:16,620
It's teamwork that makes
killer whales so dangerous.
347
00:44:17,900 --> 00:44:20,300
And this is a big team.
348
00:46:15,380 --> 00:46:18,860
There is no real need
for the penguins to be alarmed.
349
00:46:20,300 --> 00:46:23,700
These killer whales
are a kind that only eats fish.
350
00:46:29,300 --> 00:46:32,339
Rising out is simply the best way
for the whales to work out
351
00:46:32,340 --> 00:46:36,020
which cracks lead towards the coast
and better fishing.
352
00:46:48,980 --> 00:46:51,939
A new generation of Adelies
steps forth
353
00:46:51,940 --> 00:46:55,299
into the short Antarctic spring
354
00:46:55,300 --> 00:46:58,659
to be nurtured by industrious
parents who've taken great risks
355
00:46:58,660 --> 00:47:01,540
to give their young a head start.
356
00:47:05,700 --> 00:47:09,099
They will need to grow fast
if they are to fledge
357
00:47:09,100 --> 00:47:11,580
and leave before the freeze
sets in again.
358
00:47:13,660 --> 00:47:18,540
It's a battle they will win or lose
over the approaching summer.
359
00:47:42,400 --> 00:47:45,799
To film the entire breeding cycle
of the Adelie penguin,
360
00:47:45,800 --> 00:47:49,519
Frozen Planet sent a team to one
of the world's largest colonies,
361
00:47:49,520 --> 00:47:51,399
at Cape Crozier, Antarctica.
362
00:47:51,400 --> 00:47:54,639
I've heard so much about it
and read so much about it.
363
00:47:54,640 --> 00:47:57,119
Finally we're going to get there.
It's good.
364
00:47:57,120 --> 00:48:00,199
Cameraman Mark Smith
and director Jeff Wilson
365
00:48:00,200 --> 00:48:03,719
plan to spend the next four months
living amongst the penguins
366
00:48:03,720 --> 00:48:07,000
in a location first visited by
the early explorers a century ago.
367
00:48:09,080 --> 00:48:12,679
So arduous was Scott's
winter expedition to Cape Crozier
368
00:48:12,680 --> 00:48:16,839
that it became known as
"the worst journey in the world".
369
00:48:16,840 --> 00:48:20,760
Wow, it's fantastic!
370
00:48:22,000 --> 00:48:25,559
Modern means make Mark and Jeff's
journey a more comfortable affair,
371
00:48:25,560 --> 00:48:27,759
but once there, they will be tested
372
00:48:27,760 --> 00:48:30,080
to the very limits
of their endurance.
373
00:48:35,120 --> 00:48:37,719
The pair arrive in early spring
374
00:48:37,720 --> 00:48:40,420
with enough supplies to
survive the next four
375
00:48:40,421 --> 00:48:43,119
months working alone in
the Antarctic wilderness.
376
00:48:43,120 --> 00:48:45,000
We're here!
377
00:48:46,880 --> 00:48:50,279
Scott's legend of Cape Crozier
tells of some extreme weather,
378
00:48:50,280 --> 00:48:53,079
to say the least,
379
00:48:53,080 --> 00:48:56,559
so Mark and Jeff take advantage
of the clear conditions,
380
00:48:56,560 --> 00:48:59,320
in the knowledge that
the Adelies' arrival is imminent.
381
00:49:02,360 --> 00:49:05,679
But the next morning,
things take a turn for the worse.
382
00:49:05,680 --> 00:49:07,839
We've just come up to this ridge
383
00:49:07,840 --> 00:49:10,719
to go and check what it looks like
down in the colony.
384
00:49:13,720 --> 00:49:15,679
But even here you can hear...
385
00:49:15,680 --> 00:49:19,559
a huge kind of roaring noise
386
00:49:19,560 --> 00:49:23,640
up on the hill. Never really heard
anything like that before.
387
00:49:28,520 --> 00:49:31,279
Up there, it must be blowing
the most almighty gale,
388
00:49:31,280 --> 00:49:34,519
and that is, pff, you know,
just a mile away or something.
389
00:49:34,520 --> 00:49:37,719
So that means that that could
get here very, very quickly.
390
00:49:37,720 --> 00:49:41,999
So yeah, it makes you slightly
scared. It's weird, isn't it?
391
00:49:42,000 --> 00:49:45,319
The winds here
are famously ferocious,
392
00:49:45,320 --> 00:49:48,359
and with so little experience
of this location,
393
00:49:48,360 --> 00:49:53,039
Mark and Jeff retreat to
the relative shelter of their hut.
394
00:49:53,040 --> 00:49:56,919
I was just stood here thinking,
"Well, it can't be too bad,"
395
00:49:56,920 --> 00:49:59,919
"because we haven't seen rocks
starting to blow around yet,"
396
00:49:59,920 --> 00:50:04,200
and just at that moment a rock
took off and rolled down there.
397
00:50:06,960 --> 00:50:11,520
Oh, dear, it's getting stronger.
398
00:50:12,920 --> 00:50:16,359
By the second day of the storm,
the winds reach 80 miles an hour,
399
00:50:16,360 --> 00:50:19,599
and it's apparent that even getting
lunch from the outside larder
400
00:50:19,600 --> 00:50:21,160
is too risky.
401
00:50:31,680 --> 00:50:35,720
To their increasing alarm,
the storm continues to build.
402
00:50:37,680 --> 00:50:40,520
All afternoon, it's
been blowing about...
403
00:50:40,521 --> 00:50:43,359
must have been 100
miles an hour,
404
00:50:43,360 --> 00:50:46,679
and in the last half-hour
it's just got a lot stronger.
405
00:50:46,680 --> 00:50:48,520
Aside from being utterly terrified,
406
00:50:48,521 --> 00:50:51,879
there's the added worry that our
gear is stashed outside somewhere.
407
00:50:51,880 --> 00:50:54,359
We didn't have room for it
in the hut,
408
00:50:54,360 --> 00:50:57,719
and we don't know whether it's
going to be there in the morning,
409
00:50:57,720 --> 00:51:00,039
which could spell
the end of our trip.
410
00:51:00,040 --> 00:51:05,839
On the third day of the storm,
the winds hit 130 miles an hour.
411
00:51:05,840 --> 00:51:08,879
The hut starts to shake
from its very foundations,
412
00:51:08,880 --> 00:51:11,959
and Mark and Jeff's situation
becomes critical.
413
00:51:11,960 --> 00:51:13,319
The wind's so strong,
414
00:51:13,320 --> 00:51:17,599
it's constantly blowing the pilot
light out on the paraffin stove,
415
00:51:17,600 --> 00:51:19,639
so the temperature's dropping.
416
00:51:19,640 --> 00:51:24,280
The wind's rising. Sounds like
the bloody roof's coming off.
417
00:51:27,160 --> 00:51:30,959
The really scary thing is that
had we gone out down to the colony
418
00:51:30,960 --> 00:51:33,039
and tried to film today,
419
00:51:33,040 --> 00:51:36,879
there's a very high likelihood
that we'd be dead by now.
420
00:51:36,880 --> 00:51:39,519
And I don't say that lightly.
421
00:51:39,520 --> 00:51:42,599
There's no way we would have
seen this through down there.
422
00:51:42,600 --> 00:51:45,760
And that is quite sobering.
423
00:51:53,040 --> 00:51:56,079
After four terrifying days
inside the hut,
424
00:51:56,080 --> 00:51:59,239
the winds finally drop,
and Mark and Jeff are keen to see
425
00:51:59,240 --> 00:52:02,639
what, if any, equipment
has survived.
426
00:52:02,640 --> 00:52:07,279
All the real important stuff,
the camera stuff, is all still here,
427
00:52:07,280 --> 00:52:10,759
and it's still strapped
to this rock.
428
00:52:10,760 --> 00:52:13,999
You have no idea
how much joy that gives us.
429
00:52:14,000 --> 00:52:16,480
We can get on with our jobs now!
430
00:52:21,600 --> 00:52:24,559
The first things to welcome us
to the colony are these skuas,
431
00:52:24,560 --> 00:52:29,160
which come in
and batter us from above.
432
00:52:36,920 --> 00:52:41,639
At its height, the colony will swell
to over half a million penguins,
433
00:52:41,640 --> 00:52:44,799
and in the 24-hour daylight
of the Antarctic summer,
434
00:52:44,800 --> 00:52:49,079
Mark and Jeff spend
all of their waking hours filming.
435
00:52:49,080 --> 00:52:52,279
Unpredictable weather
continues to force the team
436
00:52:52,280 --> 00:52:57,399
to climb the two miles back to
the relative shelter of their hut,
437
00:52:57,400 --> 00:53:00,880
and Mark devises a novel way
of testing the wind speed.
438
00:53:02,880 --> 00:53:04,560
Stop!
439
00:53:08,960 --> 00:53:11,759
After six weeks,
the first sign that the pair
440
00:53:11,760 --> 00:53:15,039
might be tiring
of their penguin neighbours.
441
00:53:15,040 --> 00:53:16,999
Over there's a leopard seal.
442
00:53:17,000 --> 00:53:21,559
It's the first non-penguin-looking
animal in two months!
443
00:53:21,560 --> 00:53:23,920
Will you look at that?
It's a leopard seal!
444
00:53:25,160 --> 00:53:27,559
I was down here
filming the penguins coming in,
445
00:53:27,560 --> 00:53:30,399
followed this penguin that came
out of the waves up the beach,
446
00:53:30,400 --> 00:53:33,279
very nice shot, stopped the shot
447
00:53:33,280 --> 00:53:37,679
and there in the middle of the frame
was this completely white penguin...
448
00:53:37,680 --> 00:53:40,519
trying to get into the shot.
449
00:53:40,520 --> 00:53:43,120
We suspect that he might be
following us around now.
450
00:53:46,640 --> 00:53:49,839
Working around the clock
for this length of time
451
00:53:49,840 --> 00:53:52,759
in the presence
of half a million screaming penguins
452
00:53:52,760 --> 00:53:55,000
would test anyone's resolve.
453
00:53:56,960 --> 00:53:59,260
I hate carrying gear. Hear that?
I hate carrying gear.
454
00:53:59,261 --> 00:54:01,560
I don't want to do it any more.
455
00:54:04,080 --> 00:54:07,959
Midway through their trip, after more
than 1,000 hours amongst the penguins,
456
00:54:07,960 --> 00:54:11,200
their grip on reality
is beginning to loosen.
457
00:54:12,600 --> 00:54:15,239
Here we are
on the penguin superhighway,
458
00:54:15,240 --> 00:54:18,400
where the penguins
go down to the sea.
459
00:54:19,880 --> 00:54:24,159
It seems that they follow
the American system...
460
00:54:24,160 --> 00:54:29,239
driving on the right, going down
to the sea on the right,
461
00:54:29,240 --> 00:54:32,960
coming back from the sea on
the left as you're facing the sea.
462
00:54:34,800 --> 00:54:38,760
I'm fairly sure that yesterday
they were doing the British system.
463
00:54:42,040 --> 00:54:47,119
The legendary Cape Crozier weather
soon snaps them back into reality.
464
00:54:47,120 --> 00:54:49,199
I'm just filming the penguins
465
00:54:49,200 --> 00:54:53,399
with this huge kind of wind storm
466
00:54:53,400 --> 00:54:54,999
coming over the ice cap,
467
00:54:55,000 --> 00:54:58,559
the kind of thing we were warned
about by the guy who was here before,
468
00:54:58,560 --> 00:55:00,680
who has been here several
years, saying "With"
469
00:55:00,681 --> 00:55:02,799
skies like this, you
should run for home".
470
00:55:02,800 --> 00:55:05,279
But we're just going to stay
and film it.
471
00:55:05,280 --> 00:55:07,079
Because we're the BBC!
472
00:55:07,080 --> 00:55:09,559
But in this part of the world,
473
00:55:09,560 --> 00:55:12,199
working for the BBC
doesn't count for much.
474
00:55:12,200 --> 00:55:14,959
Within minutes,
the winds reach hurricane strength,
475
00:55:14,960 --> 00:55:18,319
and the crew are in serious trouble.
476
00:55:18,320 --> 00:55:21,679
So, we've got to now venture out
and go about a mile up this valley,
477
00:55:21,680 --> 00:55:26,159
which looks like it's got
about 80mph winds blowing down it.
478
00:55:26,160 --> 00:55:28,359
So it's going to be
quite an adventure.
479
00:55:28,360 --> 00:55:31,199
Bit frightening, though, really.
480
00:55:31,200 --> 00:55:35,399
After three months,
the pair are now fully aware
481
00:55:35,400 --> 00:55:38,719
of the strength the winds can reach.
Getting a little stronger now!
482
00:55:38,720 --> 00:55:40,559
There is a very real danger
483
00:55:40,560 --> 00:55:44,200
that they could be separated and
lost in these white-out conditions.
484
00:56:12,720 --> 00:56:15,519
Two terrifying hours later,
and their relief
485
00:56:15,520 --> 00:56:18,519
at finally reaching the
hut is tangible.
486
00:56:22,000 --> 00:56:25,279
With a month still to go
at Cape Crozier,
487
00:56:25,280 --> 00:56:29,319
Mark, Jeff and the penguins will
face many more storms like this.
488
00:56:29,320 --> 00:56:31,439
But it seems
their greatest challenge
489
00:56:31,440 --> 00:56:34,959
will be to maintain their sanity.
490
00:56:34,960 --> 00:56:38,839
Here we are, travelling through
the Antarctic by sled.
491
00:56:38,840 --> 00:56:41,800
We're being pulled by a herd of
huskies. Oh!
492
00:56:44,120 --> 00:56:49,439
12 of them panting out front,
breath steaming from their mouths.
493
00:56:49,440 --> 00:56:51,319
And as we go along,
494
00:56:51,320 --> 00:56:53,800
we see the happy people waving at us.42753
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