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a lot of people consider miter saws to
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be a tool that is inherently inaccurate
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that they're just meant to make rough
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cuts and to get your project pieces
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within the ballpark of their final
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Dimensions many folks feel that you
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simply can't count on a miter saw to
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deliver the accuracy that fine
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woodworking requires some miter saw
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manufacturers try to combat this
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ideology by adding a laser which marks
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where the cuts will be happening well
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this comes with some pros and cons and
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I'll get into that in a bit for me I'm
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kind of a stickler for accuracy and I
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often find myself making a cut measuring
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and having to do it again because it was
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just slightly off well in this video I'm
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going to try to improve my miter saws
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accuracy even more by adding a super
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cheap and easy to install modification
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let's get into it to start off I should
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mention that I have the 12 inch Bosch
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axial Glide dual bevel miter saw it's a
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nice saw and it's treated me well over
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the years and I pretty much make cuts on
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it using one of two techniques the first
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technique is super common and that's
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just to line up the teeth of the blade
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to your mark before you turn on the saw
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I call this cold setting then once you
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have it all lined up just right fire up
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the saw and make your cut the second
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technique I use while the saw is on and
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I call this one hot snaking it sounds
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like it would be a name for some post
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Taco Bell flatulence but actually it
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refers to making lots of little cuts and
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adjustments as you sneak up to your line
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to get an accurate cut to be honest I
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use this method nine out of 10 times and
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it's just become second nature for me
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now I did have somebody send me this
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third-party laser to put on and it's
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been nice it replaces the arbor washer
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on the saw and it's centrifugally
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activated once the saw is turned on at
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that point it projects a laser that is
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flush with the left side of the blade
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but here's something that you may have
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not really thought of before lasers have
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a thickness let me show you what I mean
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here's two lines that are 1 32nd of an
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inch apart from one another it might
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just look like one line but it's
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actually two if you look really close
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and when I put that up on the saw and
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activate the laser you'll see that the
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laser completely fills that gap between
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the lines
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this means that when you're cutting with
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a laser you have to make sure you're
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cutting on the right edge of it which
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can be tricky since the laser itself
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hides your pencil marks by turning them
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all red now I wanted to do an accuracy
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test to experiment with this line of
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thinking I made a mark at exactly five
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inches on a scrap piece of wood I took
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it to the saw put the laser on the line
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and I cut the piece normally now when I
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went to measure it afterwards this is
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what I found just barely under
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just barely
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but it's under and that's just cutting
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pieces on the left side of the blade
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cutting on the right is different I paid
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big bucks for a professional artist to
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come in and illustrate my point so if
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this is the bed of my miter saw my blade
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has a thickness of about 3 30 seconds
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the laser which sits on the left hand
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side of it has a thickness of about 1
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32nd so what this means is as that laser
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shines down here I can line the board up
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on the left side of the blade and get
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pretty close like within a 30 second of
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an inch cut but if I wanted to put my
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board on the right side of the blade and
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I lined it up with the laser my cut is
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going to take off too much material
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almost like an eighth of an inch so I
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really need to be careful and mindful of
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the thickness of the blade as well as
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the placement of the laser so cutting on
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the right side of the blade is a little
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bit different and let me show you what I
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mean say I cut this piece on the right
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side of the blade and line up my mark
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with the laser
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you can see that the cut is on the wrong
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side of the line and then I've ended up
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making my piece too short so with this
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in mind I have to revert to the cold
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setting or the hot sneaking techniques
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whenever I find myself having to cut a
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board on the right side of the blade
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this works but it's just a bit tedious
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and I always have to double check my
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measurements after the cut so you're
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probably asking yourself Drew what do
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you want to do
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all right here's what I want to do I
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want to create a shadow line I want to
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put a bright LED light right up here
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behind the blade so that when that's on
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not only will it be Illuminating my
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project piece which will be really nice
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but also it's going to be projecting
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down a shadow that is going to show me
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very clearly what material is going to
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get removed by the kerf of the blade
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plus it's going to be showing me exactly
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where the left Edge is as well as the
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right edge of the blade so it should
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make using this saw much more accurate
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and I'll be able to make my cuts even
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quicker it should be pretty good let's
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give it a try
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now I feel I need to mention that this
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isn't my first attempt at this I
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originally tried to do this with LED
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strips in the blade guard of the saw but
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it ended up failing miserably I talked
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about it on my podcast and I had a
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listener reach out to me and recommend
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this little magnetic sewing light
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the first thing I needed to do was to
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surgically remove the gooseneck I
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figured that I could cut very carefully
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around the collar of the ends and snap
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it off without damaging the wires inside
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I just used my flush trim saw to score
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around the outside and it made short
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work of it and then I did the exact same
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thing on the switch side to free up the
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other end
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then I snip the wires and I could slide
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off the neck the ends of the wires got
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stripped in the most time consuming and
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annoying way and then I could start to
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take apart the saw I don't have to
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disassemble much really I just have to
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take off the plastic guard and then the
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blade itself everything else can stay as
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it is but I just need to be able to work
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inside the metal blade housing to mount
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the light and here's the beauty of This
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Little Light it fits perfectly in this
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little opening I don't even know why
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this little space exists I mean maybe
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Bosch had plans for it or something I
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don't know but this little light it fits
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in there just right I squeezed out a
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bunch of hot glue onto the back of the
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light and then I fit it into position
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then I shot in a bit more to fill the
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gaps from the front once the glue firmed
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up the light was very secure and it
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wasn't going anywhere
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next I wanted to temporarily put the
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blade back in just to make sure that it
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wasn't going to hit the light
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oh yeah it doesn't even come close to
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hitting it there's a ton of space
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next up I needed to fold those wires
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back over the top of the blade housing
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and secure it down with some Alabama
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Chrome and this tape is actually
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performing double duty not only is it
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holding down the wires so that they
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don't get snagged by the blade guard but
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they're also adding unparalleled visual
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appeal
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now I needed some more wire and luckily
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I was able to find some under the dash
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of my neighbor's car I just cut two
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small sections so that I could extend
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the leads from the light a bit further I
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twisted them on
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added a wire nut
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taped them up and fastened them down
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with a bit more Alabama Chrome
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at this point I put the plastic blade
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guard back on so that I could see how
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far back it travels so that I know where
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to secure my wires once I had that
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figured out I marked it with a little
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piece of tape and then I could take the
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blade guard back off I continued taping
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down the wires and then I fed them
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around the back side of the saw from
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there I could strip the ends and then
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connect them to the switch just like
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before I twisted the wires together
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added a wire nut and then taped them up
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since this little light is magnetic it
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comes with some self-adhesive metal
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discs that I can just stick right onto
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the side of the saw and mount the switch
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it doesn't get any easier than that
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now I need to get behind the saw so that
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I can route the power cord for this I
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used some little sticky clips that I had
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left over from some previous project I
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ended up just placing them along the
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side of the arm mechanism and then
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clipping the cord within them foreign
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itself wasn't long enough to reach the
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wall so I had to find a short extension
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cord to reach the closest outlet then I
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can push a saw back and start to put it
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all back together putting the blade on
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without the laser this time
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and then fastening on the blade guard
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I pulled down on the handle and I
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quickly realized that I didn't give
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myself enough cord to handle the full
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action of the saw it would pull the
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switch off the magnet every time I'd go
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to make it cut is not that big of a deal
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I could just pull up a little slack and
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then tug it through all the clips
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there we go
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testing the full reach of the saw
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perfect
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all right looks like we're ready to test
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it
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yes
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yes that is perfect
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that is exactly what I was looking for
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that's awesome
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I am so happy that that worked that is
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awesome you couldn't really see it in
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that shot so here's a better one as the
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blade comes down you can see a crisp
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Shadow line form that clearly shows you
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both the right and the left edges of the
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blade
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you can easily see all the material that
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will get removed by the blade and it
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allows me to easily visualize the cut
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before I even turn on the saw it's
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perfect this Shadow line will make the
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cold setting technique much faster since
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I'm not having to rotate the blade and
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adjust the saw so that I can line up my
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little Mark with a single tooth and it
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works just as easily regardless of what
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side of the blade I'm cutting on now not
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only does the camera make me look fat
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but it's also not doing me any favors
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and showing you just how dark and crisp
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this Shadow actually is
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it's very easy to see and to line up
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with my pencil marks despite having a
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very well-lit shop
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I was wondering how well the shadow
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would show up on dark wood though man it
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still shows up quite well
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all right accuracy test time I make a
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mark at five inches and I'm just going
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to line it up to the Shadow and go for
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it last time the laser kind of hid my
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line and I ended up cutting the piece
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Just a Touch short now with the shadow
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line I could make the cut quicker but as
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far as accuracy that is
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rate on the money
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that's awesome
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perfect so just a quick review of what I
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did in case you want to try this with
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your own saw everything is mounted in a
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way where the blade guard won't hit any
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of it the wires are folded over the top
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and just taped in place along the top
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edge of the blade housing they're
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extended and they run around the back of
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the saw and then wired onto the switch
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that's magnetically fastened onto the
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side and then the power cord runs down
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along the arm mechanism and down to an
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extension cord just make sure you give
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yourself enough cord to fully extend and
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operate your saw you'll be good to go
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now these little lights came in packs of
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three which is great because they're
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super handy I got a bag full of those
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little adhesive metal discs too so I can
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add creepy looking eyes to the store
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mannequins next time I go to the mall
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but for the lights I decided to put one
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on my bandsaw so that I could see things
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a bit better and hopefully not cut my
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fingers off and the other one went onto
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my Hardware bins so that I can more
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efficiently pick out the perfect flat
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head screw to use for my future projects
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all in all this was a great little mod
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and I'm super pleased with how well it's
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working so far I've already noticed that
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I'm able to make my cuts quicker and my
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accuracy is improving if you wanted to
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try this for your own saw I'll have
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links in the video description for the
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lights and for the clips that I used now
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if this is your first time seeing one of
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my videos thanks hopefully you've
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enjoyed it and I've earned your
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subscription I've got lots of other
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videos that I'm sure you'll like as well
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as all kinds of project plans on my
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website over at fishersshoponline.com
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hey thanks so much for watching take
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care and I'll see you next time
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projecting down and no it's not going to
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be projecting down stupid idiot
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crap stupid oh it's still
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recording oh crapskies
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oh no
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it twisted it right off and it's inside
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of there
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no bueno
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[Music]
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I keep looking at myself instead of
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looking at the camera
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self
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camera
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don't look at yourself23960
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