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I'm in Athens,
the capital of Greece,
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and I'm standing on the Acropolis
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which was created at the very dawn
of European history.
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00:00:23,584 --> 00:00:26,384
Now in this series, I'm going
to be studying all things Greek -
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00:00:26,544 --> 00:00:28,264
both ancient and modern -
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by taking a journey
through her incredibly rich history.
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This is where
Western civilisation began.
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Drama, democracy, language,
science, medicine...
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This country has given us so much,
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and it's influenced the fabric
of our everyday life.
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If you're like me, you probably know
something, or nothing, about Greece.
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Some names are incredibly familiar -
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00:00:58,984 --> 00:01:03,664
the Parthenon, Zeus, Mount Olympus,
Socrates, Zorba the Greek...
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00:01:05,864 --> 00:01:07,904
But beyond this patchwork knowledge
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00:01:08,064 --> 00:01:09,744
is a country
as different and surprising
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as any I've ever visited.
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Oh, look at this!
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From the living history
of its islands
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to the turbulent borderlands
and remote mountains,
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the land of the gods.
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This is Delphi.
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Roaming through this country
to understand modern Greece,
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I follow a route through
some of its most influential past,
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which shaped the world
we live in today.
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Athens is
one of the world's oldest cities,
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with at least 7000 years
of recorded history.
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Here, the past seeps out
of every street corner.
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But one era defines this city
more than any other -
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that of the ancient Greeks,
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who lived 2500 years ago.
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I thought I'd start my odyssey
in the south of the country,
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visiting the most important sites
left by this great civilisation.
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From places of
theatre, myth, sport and religion,
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they represent the very cornerstone
of this empire.
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First on the list - the Acropolis,
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which surely defines
the meaning of the word 'iconic'.
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It was the beating heart
of this civilisation,
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a symbol of their democracy, wealth
and artistic philosophy.
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Fantastic - so many people.
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So many tourists
for this incredibly popular place.
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00:03:05,024 --> 00:03:07,944
Today, a million people
visit the Acropolis each year,
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making it one of Greece's
most popular tourist attractions.
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00:03:12,864 --> 00:03:16,424
Imagine walking up here
for the first time, like me,
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and seeing ahead of you
the Parthenon,
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the great temple
of the goddess Athena.
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It's an architectural masterpiece
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made up of 15,000 pieces,
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weighing 20,000 tonnes.
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This is the largest ancient building
created entirely from marble.
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00:03:48,224 --> 00:03:50,744
It's always extraordinary
to come to a building
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that you know so well from...
pictures and drawings,
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00:03:53,824 --> 00:03:55,744
and imitations around the world.
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Just to come and stand in it
and to be in this great temple...
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How did they do it?
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How did they get
the weight of this stuff -
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How did they cut it so...
beautifully and...
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There are men here restoring,
cladding it.
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Painstaking work...
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00:04:13,344 --> 00:04:15,904
Oh, look - here's the person
I'm longing to meet.
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Oh, Joanna! How are you?
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00:04:19,984 --> 00:04:22,944
Dr Ioannidou is
in charge of the restoration project.
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00:04:23,464 --> 00:04:27,064
These marble cutters
are working very hard,
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00:04:27,224 --> 00:04:30,744
in order to produce
in the new marble...
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Yes...
..the curving lines of these flutes.
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00:04:34,984 --> 00:04:36,744
So they look straight?
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00:04:36,904 --> 00:04:39,984
Yes, they look, but they are not
straight. Slightly curved.
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They are slightly curved.
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To please the eye?
Yes, of course.
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00:04:44,744 --> 00:04:47,784
And you've kept the different colour
for a purpose?
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00:04:47,944 --> 00:04:49,864
Yes.
Paler, but to show...
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00:04:50,024 --> 00:04:53,344
Yes. Everybody can understand...
Yes.
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00:04:53,504 --> 00:04:55,824
..what is new and what is old.
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To rebuild the temple,
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00:05:00,504 --> 00:05:03,624
the sculptors must complete
the ultimate jigsaw puzzle.
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00:05:03,784 --> 00:05:06,864
All the pieces of marble
sitting loose around the monument
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00:05:07,024 --> 00:05:09,144
must find a place.
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But to do that, they must produce
new, intricate pieces
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00:05:13,384 --> 00:05:15,784
that link together
these ancient parts.
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00:05:20,024 --> 00:05:23,344
Using many of the same tools
and methods as their ancestors,
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each piece of new marble
must match the exact contours
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00:05:27,344 --> 00:05:29,344
of the original block.
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00:05:34,784 --> 00:05:36,704
They've got wet clay here,
83
00:05:36,864 --> 00:05:40,664
so rather like at the dentist
to see if you've got a perfect bite,
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00:05:40,824 --> 00:05:42,744
he puts a little piece of paper in
85
00:05:42,904 --> 00:05:45,784
and then you take it out
to see where it's meeting or not.
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00:05:45,944 --> 00:05:49,944
And it'll take about a month for each
block like this to be done perfectly.
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00:05:51,344 --> 00:05:53,544
MEN SPEAK IN GREEK
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So they can see by what's left here
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where this hasn't quite married.
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00:05:59,984 --> 00:06:03,064
Because you've got to make
an absolutely perfect fit,
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00:06:03,224 --> 00:06:05,984
if it's just like that,
they have to take that bit off,
92
00:06:06,144 --> 00:06:08,104
so it fits absolutely like a glove.
93
00:06:09,384 --> 00:06:11,744
They only chip away
from the new marble.
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The old marble is sacred.
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Staggering.
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00:06:17,504 --> 00:06:20,944
This entire place
is a work of absolute genius.
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Not the genius of one man -
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the genius of thousands of men,
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00:06:25,224 --> 00:06:27,664
and do you know how long it took
to build?
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00:06:27,824 --> 00:06:29,464
This entire temple...
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00:06:29,904 --> 00:06:32,424
Ten years. That's all.
102
00:06:33,664 --> 00:06:36,304
But this job will take
longer than ten years.
103
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It has suffered centuries of abuse.
104
00:06:39,184 --> 00:06:41,384
Oh, look at this.
Yeah.
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00:06:41,544 --> 00:06:44,624
First, it was used as
a gunpowder store by the Ottomans.
106
00:06:44,784 --> 00:06:46,664
Then, blown up by the Venetians.
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And an Englishman, Lord Elgin,
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00:06:48,904 --> 00:06:51,784
removed parts and sent them home
to the British Museum.
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Even now, a bone of contention
between the Greeks and the British.
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You do this every day?
Don't look down.
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Don't look down.
I won't look down,
112
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but you must go slowly
and not... leave me.
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00:07:03,864 --> 00:07:06,344
I'm being taken to see
some of the restoration.
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But it's at a terrifying distance
from the ground.
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00:07:12,184 --> 00:07:14,064
I have to hold on both sides,
116
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because I have to lull myself into a
sense of absolutely not looking down
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being okay.
118
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Almost the greatest dread of my life
is vertigo.
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00:07:24,904 --> 00:07:26,664
As a child
I once got stuck on a ladder,
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00:07:26,824 --> 00:07:28,904
and my sister had to
come and help me down.
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I was about seven.
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I got stuck and she had to move
every finger and every foot,
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to take me down and it took about,
I don't know, 25 minutes.
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So coming up here...
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I felt that, quite frankly,
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I was doing it for the viewers.
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That's you. Because I love you.
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The restorers
working at these perilous heights
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00:07:54,384 --> 00:07:57,344
are involved in
their most delicate project -
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00:07:57,504 --> 00:08:00,344
protecting the marble
that has been ravaged by pollution,
131
00:08:00,504 --> 00:08:03,264
and previous
botched restoration work.
132
00:08:05,744 --> 00:08:07,544
Is this water?
Yes.
133
00:08:07,704 --> 00:08:09,704
Yes, it's water...
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00:08:10,744 --> 00:08:12,664
..to remove the dust.
Yes.
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From inside.
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00:08:15,584 --> 00:08:18,704
You can see? I can see.
Look how it's coming off.
137
00:08:21,184 --> 00:08:23,024
And this is the figure of a man.
138
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Here's his beautiful arm here.
139
00:08:25,304 --> 00:08:28,144
Yes. This is quite extraordinary,
because here we are
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00:08:28,304 --> 00:08:31,664
on one of the most colossal,
monumental buildings in the world.
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00:08:31,824 --> 00:08:33,784
And look at the size of these tools
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00:08:33,944 --> 00:08:35,904
that are being used,
like a dentist's -
143
00:08:36,064 --> 00:08:37,984
Yes, they are dentists'.
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00:08:38,144 --> 00:08:40,384
They are?
They are dentists' tools.
145
00:08:40,544 --> 00:08:42,984
And also this.
Oh, look at this.
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Dentists use it.
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Wow, isn't that extraordinary?
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The love and care
that the modern Greeks
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are lavishing
on this matchless monument
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00:08:54,384 --> 00:08:56,984
are just what
this glorious building deserves.
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00:08:58,064 --> 00:08:59,984
From the White House in Washington,
152
00:09:00,144 --> 00:09:02,424
to the Bank of England
in the city of London,
153
00:09:02,584 --> 00:09:04,864
its architecture
has been slavishly copied -
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00:09:05,024 --> 00:09:07,464
a symbol of the importance
of Greek culture
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00:09:07,624 --> 00:09:09,624
throughout the world.
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00:09:15,784 --> 00:09:17,704
After seeing the Acropolis today,
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it just made me think... how little
we know about Ancient Greece
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00:09:21,504 --> 00:09:25,144
and how nice it would be if we taught
Latin and Greek again in schools.
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We could learn it,
and it wouldn't just be...
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00:09:27,784 --> 00:09:29,664
the lucky ones who got to know
about it.
161
00:09:29,824 --> 00:09:32,304
Now there's something else
we don't know about Greece -
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we think they smash plates -
they don't. It's been outlawed.
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They threw so many plates at people
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to show their appreciation of singers
and dancers
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00:09:38,784 --> 00:09:41,064
that there were injuries!
They've banned it.
166
00:09:41,224 --> 00:09:44,864
Instead of plates...
they throw flowers.
167
00:09:50,264 --> 00:09:52,224
Throughout Greek history,
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flowers have been used as offerings
to the gods.
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00:09:54,984 --> 00:09:56,944
I'm off to a bouzoukia,
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which is a modern twist
on an old tradition...
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There are 50 of these clubs
in Athens
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which, after midnight,
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00:10:04,584 --> 00:10:06,944
cater for Greeks who want...
a wild night out.
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Joanna.
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00:10:09,224 --> 00:10:11,344
Yassas.
How are you, fine?
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00:10:11,504 --> 00:10:13,584
Yes.
Welcome to Caramela.
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00:10:13,744 --> 00:10:17,024
My host tonight is nightclub owner
Iannis Boytypakos,
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which means 'naughty boy'.
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This is no ordinary nightclub.
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Audiences can reach 5000,
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00:10:26,664 --> 00:10:29,584
dancing through the night
to a succession of singers.
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00:10:34,624 --> 00:10:36,584
But I've come for the main event,
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when crowds start to celebrate
Greek-style...
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00:10:39,344 --> 00:10:41,344
with flowers.
185
00:10:45,104 --> 00:10:47,744
They have them on these
little wicker trays,
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racked up five high.
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00:10:49,904 --> 00:10:52,744
Those cost 60 euros so about 50 quid,
188
00:10:53,664 --> 00:10:56,584
and those are coming in
and being thrown plenty.
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So this is extraordinary
in a country which is,
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00:11:00,024 --> 00:11:04,424
to a certain extent really suffering
very badly, erm... financially.
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00:11:07,504 --> 00:11:10,504
I don't think a lot of them
are tremendously rich.
192
00:11:11,024 --> 00:11:13,984
In fact, Greece has one of
the worst economies in Europe.
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00:11:14,144 --> 00:11:16,544
But it's a tradition
for bouzoukia revellers
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00:11:16,704 --> 00:11:18,664
to pay a fortune for their flowers.
195
00:11:20,264 --> 00:11:22,224
Their bill for the night...
196
00:11:22,384 --> 00:11:24,624
can be more than the cost
of a brand-new car.
197
00:11:25,904 --> 00:11:28,264
We live for the day - for this day.
198
00:11:28,424 --> 00:11:31,944
For this moment? Yes, for the
moment. We don't care for tomorrow.
199
00:11:32,104 --> 00:11:35,944
And you party all through the night?
Tomorrow maybe everything... boom.
200
00:11:36,104 --> 00:11:38,824
And do you think when Greece
recovers its economy -
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00:11:38,984 --> 00:11:40,824
I don't think it will recover ever.
202
00:11:40,984 --> 00:11:42,544
Don't you think?
203
00:11:43,104 --> 00:11:46,584
The most important thing is
to go out, have a good time,
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00:11:46,744 --> 00:11:48,344
make yourself happy.
205
00:11:48,504 --> 00:11:51,464
Let tomorrow take care of itself.
Live for the moment.
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00:11:54,824 --> 00:11:57,064
It's coming up for three o'clock now.
207
00:11:57,744 --> 00:12:00,024
That's pretty early for me,
as you can guess,
208
00:12:00,184 --> 00:12:02,144
but I might just call it a day.
209
00:12:13,424 --> 00:12:17,064
Whilst the culture of bouzoukia
has changed to suit modern tastes,
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00:12:17,224 --> 00:12:20,024
there's another tradition
which has remained the same
211
00:12:20,184 --> 00:12:21,624
for thousands of years,
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00:12:21,784 --> 00:12:25,664
which today is virtually unknown -
even here in Greece.
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00:12:28,624 --> 00:12:31,144
I'm saying goodbye to Athens
and the mainland.
214
00:12:34,704 --> 00:12:38,664
My guide Petros is taking me
to the isolated corner of Evia,
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00:12:38,824 --> 00:12:41,184
the second largest island in Greece.
216
00:12:44,424 --> 00:12:46,784
Throughout ancient times,
Evia bore the brunt
217
00:12:46,944 --> 00:12:48,864
of a succession of invaders,
218
00:12:49,024 --> 00:12:51,104
intent on plundering Athens' riches.
219
00:12:54,704 --> 00:12:58,384
Here the hills have echoed to the
sounds of an astonishing language,
220
00:12:58,544 --> 00:13:02,064
thought to be a relic of
those ancient invasions.
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00:13:03,904 --> 00:13:06,344
Finally, we arrive at the village
of Antia.
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00:13:06,504 --> 00:13:09,624
Up here?
I think so. (Speaks Greek)
223
00:13:09,784 --> 00:13:11,784
(Whistles)
224
00:13:12,384 --> 00:13:14,344
It's Kyria Koula.
225
00:13:19,824 --> 00:13:21,984
(Speaks and whistles)
226
00:13:25,384 --> 00:13:27,824
(Joanna whistles)
227
00:13:27,984 --> 00:13:30,064
(Speaks Greek)
Can she understand?
228
00:13:31,224 --> 00:13:34,664
I was only making it up!
I don't know.
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00:13:35,304 --> 00:13:37,264
(Speaks Greek)
Yeah, she says,
230
00:13:37,424 --> 00:13:39,504
she said that
she doesn't say something.
231
00:13:39,664 --> 00:13:41,544
I didn't say anything!
232
00:13:41,704 --> 00:13:43,904
She's found me out -
I was just whistling.
233
00:13:58,304 --> 00:14:00,264
So that's her sound?
234
00:14:02,384 --> 00:14:03,544
Here come some people.
235
00:14:22,264 --> 00:14:25,544
The sound is actually like
people who can whistle for taxis,
236
00:14:25,704 --> 00:14:27,824
which I can't do
because my whistling is -
237
00:14:27,984 --> 00:14:31,864
I've been trying to practise all my -
Jennifer Saunders can do it, I can't.
238
00:14:32,024 --> 00:14:33,944
I can't make a sound! I just dribble.
239
00:14:34,104 --> 00:14:35,984
I'd be hopeless up here,
240
00:14:36,144 --> 00:14:39,224
I wouldn't be able to get any tea
for a neighbour or anything.
241
00:14:47,864 --> 00:14:50,904
Do our ladies know where
the tradition of whistling came from?
242
00:15:12,864 --> 00:15:14,984
There is a belief that
in ancient times,
243
00:15:15,144 --> 00:15:18,624
the invading Persians would
post whistlers on the mountaintops
244
00:15:18,784 --> 00:15:22,224
as sentries, so they could signal
an imminent attack on Athens.
245
00:15:24,104 --> 00:15:25,944
I'm just glad it wasn't my job.
246
00:15:26,104 --> 00:15:28,024
I wouldn't get anywhere near it,
247
00:15:28,184 --> 00:15:30,384
it would be as if I was dumb,
being up here.
248
00:15:36,944 --> 00:15:38,824
One for the dogs! Look, the dogs -
249
00:15:38,984 --> 00:15:41,184
We've suddenly got
a mass of dogs around.
250
00:15:54,864 --> 00:15:56,544
That reminds me strangely of -
251
00:15:56,704 --> 00:15:58,624
There's a goat on the roof
over there!
252
00:15:58,784 --> 00:16:01,544
The goats are now
climbing over the rooves towards us.
253
00:16:03,384 --> 00:16:05,344
Look, more goats have arrived.
254
00:16:07,624 --> 00:16:10,264
They know we're going to be
having tea in a second.
255
00:16:10,424 --> 00:16:12,984
The cocks are crowing,
it's... extraordinary.
256
00:16:13,144 --> 00:16:16,024
It's the nearest thing
to Dr Dolittle I've ever seen.
257
00:16:16,184 --> 00:16:18,184
You whistle
and the goats answer back,
258
00:16:18,344 --> 00:16:21,304
then you shout at them
and they've got it, absolutely.
259
00:16:21,464 --> 00:16:23,664
(Woman calls out)
(Goat bleats)
260
00:16:26,064 --> 00:16:29,824
This extraordinary language is
in danger of being lost to the world.
261
00:16:32,624 --> 00:16:35,424
30 years ago,
Antia was home to 100 people.
262
00:16:35,584 --> 00:16:37,544
Today, there are just 40.
263
00:16:40,304 --> 00:16:43,504
With all the youngsters gone,
the school has closed.
264
00:16:43,664 --> 00:16:46,184
Only the older generation is left.
265
00:16:46,824 --> 00:16:50,264
Kyria, is it important...
that whistling doesn't die out?
266
00:16:50,424 --> 00:16:52,424
How can you make sure...
267
00:16:52,584 --> 00:16:55,384
that future generations
will continue to whistle?
268
00:17:13,624 --> 00:17:17,144
It's sad to think that after
hundreds of generations of whistling,
269
00:17:17,304 --> 00:17:19,224
Kyria Koula and her friends
270
00:17:19,384 --> 00:17:22,864
might be the last to communicate
in this strange language.
271
00:17:23,504 --> 00:17:25,464
As yet, none of their children
272
00:17:25,624 --> 00:17:28,024
have learnt to whistle
like their ancestors.
273
00:17:42,264 --> 00:17:44,944
Back on the mainland
I swap my car for the train
274
00:17:45,104 --> 00:17:46,824
for the next leg of my journey.
275
00:17:47,744 --> 00:17:50,784
Somehow I didn't expect the weather
to be so... British.
276
00:17:53,984 --> 00:17:55,904
The train's just left Athens here
277
00:17:56,064 --> 00:17:58,584
and we're going to be travelling
round, round, round, round
278
00:17:58,744 --> 00:18:04,024
into the Peloponnese, this sort of
wild area which is... so mysterious,
279
00:18:04,184 --> 00:18:07,624
and of course the very birthplace of
all the gods and myths and legends.
280
00:18:07,784 --> 00:18:09,864
Everything seemed to happen
down here.
281
00:18:10,024 --> 00:18:11,944
My route will take me to the region's
282
00:18:12,104 --> 00:18:15,144
most spectacular
mythical and historic sites,
283
00:18:15,304 --> 00:18:17,864
discovering places
that drew masses of pilgrims
284
00:18:18,024 --> 00:18:20,024
from across the ancient Greek world.
285
00:18:20,704 --> 00:18:24,344
Ending my journey at this great
civilisation's most sacred place -
286
00:18:25,304 --> 00:18:27,224
Delphi.
287
00:18:27,384 --> 00:18:29,704
But first my train
is taking me to Epidavros,
288
00:18:29,864 --> 00:18:32,584
the most famous theatre
in the ancient world.
289
00:18:33,104 --> 00:18:35,424
As an actress,
I'm longing to see this place.
290
00:18:35,584 --> 00:18:38,704
The legendary acoustics
of what we call Epidaurus
291
00:18:38,864 --> 00:18:41,144
has attracted
some of our modern-day greats
292
00:18:41,304 --> 00:18:44,024
like Pavarotti and Mariah Callas.
293
00:18:47,464 --> 00:18:50,744
I'm meeting one of the most popular
female singers of them all,
294
00:18:50,904 --> 00:18:52,544
Nana Mouskouri.
295
00:18:53,824 --> 00:19:01,144
# So goodbye, my love, till then,
till... #
296
00:19:01,304 --> 00:19:03,224
Over her 50-year career,
297
00:19:03,384 --> 00:19:06,344
Nana is claimed to have sold
more records in more countries
298
00:19:06,504 --> 00:19:08,304
than any other woman.
299
00:19:08,464 --> 00:19:13,224
# Goodbye till then #
300
00:19:17,784 --> 00:19:20,144
Oh, look at this!
301
00:19:20,624 --> 00:19:22,824
Isn't that wonderful?
302
00:19:26,744 --> 00:19:29,264
Epidavros was built
in the 4th century BC
303
00:19:29,424 --> 00:19:32,344
to honour the god of healing
Asclepius, son of Apollo.
304
00:19:33,224 --> 00:19:35,144
It was a sanctuary to cure the sick,
305
00:19:35,304 --> 00:19:38,104
and for the Greeks,
theatre was part of the medicine.
306
00:19:38,264 --> 00:19:41,704
There were comedies, singing contests
and great tragic plays.
307
00:19:42,424 --> 00:19:44,424
It's a very mystical place
308
00:19:44,584 --> 00:19:46,464
and it's a place
where everybody comes
309
00:19:46,624 --> 00:19:49,184
to participate, to get together.
310
00:19:49,344 --> 00:19:52,264
One does feel...
an extraordinary presence here.
311
00:19:52,424 --> 00:19:54,304
It is.
It's true, isn't it?
312
00:19:54,464 --> 00:19:57,224
We believe that
it is inhabited by gods,
313
00:19:57,384 --> 00:19:59,144
by semi gods.
314
00:19:59,304 --> 00:20:03,104
The legends survive,
and here it's full of legends.
315
00:20:03,264 --> 00:20:05,984
Have you sung here?
No. (Laughs)
316
00:20:06,144 --> 00:20:07,184
No?
317
00:20:07,344 --> 00:20:10,064
No, I haven't had this,
er... this honour, really.
318
00:20:10,944 --> 00:20:13,944
It's the dream of every,
I think, of every singer.
319
00:20:15,424 --> 00:20:17,824
Trained as a classical singer,
the young Nana
320
00:20:17,984 --> 00:20:20,384
was cast to sing in the chorus
of an opera here.
321
00:20:20,544 --> 00:20:22,664
But at the last moment
she was dismissed,
322
00:20:22,824 --> 00:20:26,224
simply because she was
considered to be a pop star.
323
00:20:27,224 --> 00:20:28,904
When we arrived here,
324
00:20:29,064 --> 00:20:31,144
they got... an order
325
00:20:31,304 --> 00:20:34,544
from the highest point possible,
326
00:20:34,704 --> 00:20:36,784
not to use me,
327
00:20:36,944 --> 00:20:38,624
because it became a scandal,
328
00:20:38,784 --> 00:20:40,704
and I was really -
329
00:20:40,864 --> 00:20:42,704
I came back the next day
all by myself
330
00:20:42,864 --> 00:20:44,784
crying all the way through.
331
00:20:44,944 --> 00:20:47,544
So it was something...
For me it was a sort of stigma.
332
00:20:47,704 --> 00:20:50,704
Those slights, those injuries
sit deep in your heart.
333
00:20:50,864 --> 00:20:55,184
Yes, I think I never learned more
than from my failures.
334
00:20:55,344 --> 00:20:57,984
Yes... and this was no failure.
335
00:20:58,744 --> 00:21:02,784
You can be heard all over the
auditorium by an audience of 15,000,
336
00:21:03,784 --> 00:21:06,744
especially if you stand
bang in the middle of the stage.
337
00:21:06,904 --> 00:21:08,664
(Calls out)
338
00:21:09,024 --> 00:21:11,624
The acoustics are so special.
Can we test them?
339
00:21:11,784 --> 00:21:14,424
You... you don't think you'd sing?
340
00:21:15,424 --> 00:21:17,664
Should I try?
Will you please try?
341
00:21:17,824 --> 00:21:19,904
I'll try. I don't know what to do.
342
00:21:20,064 --> 00:21:22,224
I did not rehearse, I did not...
Oh, please.
343
00:21:23,104 --> 00:21:25,024
It's a pleasure. Yes, I will do it.
344
00:21:25,184 --> 00:21:28,144
Miss Mouskouri,
this is your five-minute call.
345
00:21:28,304 --> 00:21:29,744
Okay.
346
00:21:29,904 --> 00:21:32,424
I go fast,
and I better have a good voice.
347
00:21:34,904 --> 00:21:37,984
I should be able to hear Nana
perfectly right up at the back,
348
00:21:38,144 --> 00:21:40,064
200 feet away.
349
00:21:40,224 --> 00:21:42,984
The shape of the theatre
and the use of limestone rock
350
00:21:43,144 --> 00:21:45,024
reflect the sound perfectly.
351
00:21:45,184 --> 00:21:47,624
So, Joanna, I am on the right spot.
352
00:21:47,784 --> 00:21:50,584
Can you hear me?
I can hear you, Nana.
353
00:21:50,744 --> 00:21:54,584
Okay. I can't hear you very well,
but it's okay.
354
00:21:57,024 --> 00:22:04,264
# Ave Maria...
355
00:22:04,824 --> 00:22:11,264
# Gratia plena
356
00:22:11,784 --> 00:22:18,744
# Maria, gratia plena
357
00:22:18,904 --> 00:22:25,304
# Maria, gratia plena
358
00:22:26,624 --> 00:22:41,344
# Ave Maria #
359
00:22:45,384 --> 00:22:47,344
Bravo, Nana!
360
00:22:52,544 --> 00:22:54,864
Efharisto poli, efharisto.
361
00:22:55,584 --> 00:23:00,384
It's extraordinary, without any
rehearsal or any orchestra. (Sniffs)
362
00:23:00,544 --> 00:23:03,384
CROWD CHANTS AND APPLAUDS
363
00:23:04,944 --> 00:23:07,744
I first saw Nana Mouskouri
when I was in my teens,
364
00:23:07,904 --> 00:23:09,864
I suppose, I mean I didn't see her.
365
00:23:11,664 --> 00:23:13,904
And it's just so odd as life goes by
366
00:23:14,064 --> 00:23:17,504
that you... get to meet
some of these great gods.
367
00:23:19,944 --> 00:23:23,544
Well, that was something -
to be in Epidavros
368
00:23:23,704 --> 00:23:25,664
and hear Nana Mouskouri singing...
369
00:23:27,024 --> 00:23:29,664
for a tiny house
on a Monday evening, but...
370
00:23:31,064 --> 00:23:33,024
just sort of in the lap of the gods.
371
00:23:39,064 --> 00:23:41,104
Fabulous.
372
00:23:50,979 --> 00:23:54,979
In the south of the Peloponnese
is a remote region called the Mani.
373
00:23:55,859 --> 00:23:58,699
It's an area that was left behind
by the modern world.
374
00:24:00,859 --> 00:24:04,419
A huge mountain range had
kept the Mani peninsula isolated
375
00:24:04,579 --> 00:24:07,019
and forgotten for thousands of years.
376
00:24:08,579 --> 00:24:10,699
At its southernmost tip
there's a place
377
00:24:10,859 --> 00:24:13,099
believed to be
the mythical gates of Hades,
378
00:24:13,259 --> 00:24:15,459
where the ancients went
when they died.
379
00:24:19,299 --> 00:24:21,219
Some say the people here
380
00:24:21,379 --> 00:24:23,699
are the direct descendants
of the Spartans,
381
00:24:23,859 --> 00:24:27,459
the most bloodthirsty warriors
of ancient Greece.
382
00:24:36,419 --> 00:24:40,219
My guide, Petros, and I have
driven through Arcadia and Sparta
383
00:24:40,379 --> 00:24:42,339
on our way to the extreme south.
384
00:24:43,099 --> 00:24:46,059
He wants to show me this
unique frontier land of Greece.
385
00:24:48,739 --> 00:24:52,539
Only the last 40 years,
the luxury of a road came to Mani.
386
00:24:52,699 --> 00:24:56,619
It introduced in that place.
What did they do before?
387
00:24:56,779 --> 00:24:58,699
They used to use donkeys.
388
00:24:58,859 --> 00:25:01,739
Donkeys. Donkey tracks,
just walking? Donkey trails.
389
00:25:01,899 --> 00:25:03,859
It's so wild.
390
00:25:04,699 --> 00:25:07,339
Remote and low-key - this is Mani.
391
00:25:08,539 --> 00:25:10,419
Everywhere just seems to be rocks,
392
00:25:10,579 --> 00:25:12,739
rock hillsides, rocks on the ground.
393
00:25:13,419 --> 00:25:15,539
Everything looks like castles
of course
394
00:25:15,699 --> 00:25:18,179
because of these tower houses,
everything...
395
00:25:18,339 --> 00:25:21,579
That little village looks like
a pile of tiny, grey castles.
396
00:25:22,539 --> 00:25:24,459
We're driving up to Vathia,
397
00:25:24,619 --> 00:25:27,539
a 16th century
fortified tower-house settlement.
398
00:25:27,699 --> 00:25:30,339
It's a town with a bloody past.
399
00:25:33,019 --> 00:25:34,979
Hello? Is there anyone there?
400
00:25:35,779 --> 00:25:37,659
Yassas?
401
00:25:37,819 --> 00:25:39,779
Yassas?
402
00:25:44,819 --> 00:25:47,379
There's nobody here.
It's very strange.
403
00:25:47,779 --> 00:25:49,659
In the mid 19th century,
404
00:25:49,819 --> 00:25:51,739
300 people lived here.
405
00:25:51,899 --> 00:25:54,579
It was rife with blood feuds
and vendettas.
406
00:25:55,419 --> 00:25:57,379
Ooh, a little, little door.
407
00:25:59,259 --> 00:26:01,139
Look at this. It's got a little...
408
00:26:01,299 --> 00:26:03,179
platform with a bed here.
409
00:26:03,339 --> 00:26:05,259
Local men hid in their tower homes
410
00:26:05,419 --> 00:26:07,579
after falling out with
their neighbours,
411
00:26:07,739 --> 00:26:09,699
usually over land... or women.
412
00:26:11,099 --> 00:26:13,019
They'd take pot shots from here,
413
00:26:13,179 --> 00:26:15,379
trapped until
they'd killed their enemy,
414
00:26:15,539 --> 00:26:17,819
who could be hiding
just across the street.
415
00:26:17,979 --> 00:26:20,379
Often the victor
would celebrate his success
416
00:26:20,539 --> 00:26:23,699
by nailing his neighbour's
severed head to his front door.
417
00:26:24,899 --> 00:26:26,859
There are beds in here!
418
00:26:29,059 --> 00:26:30,699
I feel rather creeped here.
419
00:26:32,859 --> 00:26:35,179
There's nothing here.
There's just birds.
420
00:26:36,539 --> 00:26:38,419
WHISPERS: I can see somebody!
421
00:26:38,579 --> 00:26:40,019
Yes.
422
00:26:40,619 --> 00:26:42,579
I can see somebody on a roof.
423
00:26:44,459 --> 00:26:46,779
Shall we go and say 'Yassas'?
Yes, yes.
424
00:26:46,939 --> 00:26:48,219
Yassas.
425
00:26:55,659 --> 00:26:57,779
It seems that the few people
left in Vathia
426
00:26:57,939 --> 00:26:59,819
still remain wary of strangers.
427
00:26:59,979 --> 00:27:01,939
Which way? This way?
428
00:27:06,299 --> 00:27:08,219
Like other villages in the Mani,
429
00:27:08,379 --> 00:27:12,219
Vathia became a ghost town when the
first roads were built in the 1970s.
430
00:27:13,019 --> 00:27:15,099
People in this area
emigrated to Athens,
431
00:27:15,259 --> 00:27:18,419
leaving her land and houses empty.
432
00:27:20,259 --> 00:27:22,899
It has a desolate,
breathtaking beauty.
433
00:27:26,499 --> 00:27:28,419
Oh, look, here's somebody!
434
00:27:28,579 --> 00:27:30,659
There's a dog
and there's a little woman.
435
00:27:30,819 --> 00:27:32,219
Let's go and ask her.
436
00:27:33,699 --> 00:27:35,539
Yassas.
Yassas.
437
00:27:35,699 --> 00:27:37,659
(Both speak Greek)
438
00:27:41,419 --> 00:27:43,299
It's a dead end.
439
00:27:43,459 --> 00:27:45,379
And so, no cafe or anything?
440
00:27:45,539 --> 00:27:48,579
Nowhere we can get a cup of coffee
or stop or eat something?
441
00:27:48,739 --> 00:27:50,619
(Speaks Greek)
442
00:27:50,779 --> 00:27:54,699
But she's just invited us.
We can have coffee at her house.
443
00:27:54,859 --> 00:27:56,819
Oh, that'd be wonderful.
444
00:27:56,979 --> 00:27:58,779
(Speaks Greek)
445
00:28:04,539 --> 00:28:06,379
Tell me, what is it like
in the winter here?
446
00:28:14,259 --> 00:28:15,659
It must be very cold,
and there's no -
447
00:28:15,819 --> 00:28:17,579
What does she live on?
448
00:28:40,899 --> 00:28:42,819
Very strong. Beautiful.
449
00:28:44,379 --> 00:28:46,339
Aromatic...
450
00:28:48,619 --> 00:28:50,579
How fantastic!
451
00:28:54,659 --> 00:28:58,179
Kyria Antonia lives a solitary life
in this abandoned village,
452
00:28:58,339 --> 00:29:01,219
and survives by living off the land.
453
00:29:02,899 --> 00:29:05,219
This is a fabulous pathway, isn't it?
454
00:29:05,379 --> 00:29:08,539
It's a natural stairway,
it's just extraordinary.
455
00:29:09,259 --> 00:29:11,499
For supper,
she's picking wild asparagus
456
00:29:11,659 --> 00:29:13,579
and has invited me to help her.
457
00:29:13,739 --> 00:29:16,539
Can you imagine that
this is the way you get your food,
458
00:29:16,699 --> 00:29:18,979
which is just by
hunting on these hillsides?
459
00:29:19,139 --> 00:29:21,099
And finding...
460
00:29:21,779 --> 00:29:25,419
not very much, just kind of leaves
and... little plants.
461
00:29:25,579 --> 00:29:28,739
She knows them all, it's just
this lovely way of living wild.
462
00:29:28,899 --> 00:29:30,859
But gosh, what slim pickings.
463
00:29:35,179 --> 00:29:38,539
Looking for little strands
of... wild asparagus.
464
00:29:39,219 --> 00:29:41,059
I pick? Yeah?
465
00:29:43,099 --> 00:29:45,059
That one? This one.
466
00:29:45,899 --> 00:29:47,859
Wild asparagus.
467
00:29:50,579 --> 00:29:54,179
Well, Kyria Antonia and I have sort
of been hunting for a little bit.
468
00:29:54,339 --> 00:29:56,459
She obviously has got
a much sharper eye,
469
00:29:56,619 --> 00:29:59,339
because she can see
exactly what she's looking for.
470
00:29:59,499 --> 00:30:02,859
I just hope we get enough together
so we can have a little supper,
471
00:30:03,019 --> 00:30:04,819
which she's promised to cook me.
472
00:30:04,979 --> 00:30:08,059
It's just
the extraordinary kindness of...
473
00:30:08,419 --> 00:30:12,139
people who seem to have
so very much less than we do.
474
00:30:12,899 --> 00:30:14,779
Ah, Kyria, thank you!
475
00:30:14,939 --> 00:30:16,899
Look, two more to our collection.
476
00:30:23,779 --> 00:30:25,699
(Speaks Greek)
477
00:30:26,419 --> 00:30:29,139
The wild asparagus is cooked
in the simplest possible way.
478
00:30:29,299 --> 00:30:31,739
Boiled for ten minutes in water...
479
00:30:32,699 --> 00:30:34,659
little bit of salt...
480
00:30:35,339 --> 00:30:37,059
some oil...
481
00:30:37,219 --> 00:30:39,259
and then it's almost ready to serve -
482
00:30:39,419 --> 00:30:41,499
except for one last vital ingredient.
483
00:30:44,099 --> 00:30:45,979
Lemons as sweet as oranges,
484
00:30:46,139 --> 00:30:48,499
huge, beautiful lemons.
485
00:30:54,379 --> 00:30:57,019
Eat it almost perhaps
a little bit like spaghetti,
486
00:30:57,179 --> 00:30:59,139
just tangling it up.
487
00:31:01,099 --> 00:31:03,659
(Asks a question in Greek)
Mmm.
488
00:31:06,739 --> 00:31:08,699
It's absolutely beautiful.
489
00:31:11,579 --> 00:31:13,099
Kyria...
490
00:31:13,259 --> 00:31:16,499
Why do you still stay here
when there's nobody here?
491
00:31:25,099 --> 00:31:27,819
Kyria, would you ever like to live
in a city?
492
00:31:31,219 --> 00:31:32,939
Did you like it?
493
00:31:37,499 --> 00:31:39,459
Kyria, do you get lonely here?
494
00:31:52,379 --> 00:31:54,739
I should like to be
like Kyria Antonia.
495
00:31:54,899 --> 00:31:56,859
I should like to be
afraid of nothing.
496
00:31:57,859 --> 00:31:59,899
But I'm going to the Gates of Hades,
497
00:32:00,059 --> 00:32:02,299
where the dead went to be judged.
498
00:32:03,699 --> 00:32:06,859
Even though I'm alive,
will I be found wanting?
499
00:32:14,139 --> 00:32:16,819
Three mighty gods -
Zeus, Poseidon and Hades -
500
00:32:16,979 --> 00:32:18,899
drew lots to rule the world.
501
00:32:19,059 --> 00:32:21,339
Zeus got the heavens,
Poseidon the sea,
502
00:32:21,499 --> 00:32:23,379
and Hades the underworld,
503
00:32:23,539 --> 00:32:25,419
whose entrance is in a cave
504
00:32:25,579 --> 00:32:27,539
and it's only accessible by boat.
505
00:32:28,339 --> 00:32:31,659
It's quite strange to be sitting here
in the peaceful sunlight
506
00:32:31,819 --> 00:32:35,499
with the waves lapping at my feet
and knowing that in a very short time
507
00:32:35,659 --> 00:32:37,539
I shall be at the gates of hell,
508
00:32:37,699 --> 00:32:39,579
the gates of the underworld.
509
00:32:39,739 --> 00:32:42,379
And... everyone can enter
510
00:32:42,539 --> 00:32:44,819
and no one can leave.
511
00:32:46,019 --> 00:32:47,939
And it's just strange because
512
00:32:48,099 --> 00:32:50,779
I've heard about these things
all through my life,
513
00:32:50,939 --> 00:32:53,699
and I thought I would be feeling
light-hearted about it,
514
00:32:53,859 --> 00:32:56,739
but actually I feel
very, very... full of respect,
515
00:32:56,899 --> 00:32:58,859
a little bit, erm...
516
00:32:59,579 --> 00:33:01,539
It feels quite serious.
517
00:33:07,179 --> 00:33:09,499
A local boatman, Petros Georgariou,
518
00:33:09,659 --> 00:33:11,979
has been to the entrance before.
519
00:33:12,539 --> 00:33:16,699
In these parts, people still believe
the gods and legends have meaning.
520
00:33:43,859 --> 00:33:46,379
And this is pre-Christianity,
pre-Islam.
521
00:33:46,539 --> 00:33:48,699
This goes back to
the beginning of time,
522
00:33:48,859 --> 00:33:50,659
so it's sort of pagan.
523
00:33:50,819 --> 00:33:54,259
So I think the idea of
the underworld and hell being below
524
00:33:54,419 --> 00:33:56,339
and heaven being above
525
00:33:56,499 --> 00:33:59,859
is actually apparent
in all religions, it seems to me.
526
00:34:06,379 --> 00:34:10,219
This old notion that you would
be damned for all eternity
527
00:34:10,379 --> 00:34:14,379
sort of... rather gripped
at the heart of me,
528
00:34:16,139 --> 00:34:18,739
so I'm taking every precaution today.
529
00:34:21,019 --> 00:34:22,659
This is extraordinary.
530
00:34:22,819 --> 00:34:24,939
We are here, at the very gates...
531
00:34:25,099 --> 00:34:27,019
of Hades, of Ardes, here,
532
00:34:27,179 --> 00:34:30,059
a sort of unexpectedly modest
little cave,
533
00:34:30,219 --> 00:34:33,219
but this was the very end of
what was then the known world.
534
00:34:33,379 --> 00:34:36,899
After this, there's nothing but sea
until you get to Africa.
535
00:34:37,059 --> 00:34:40,619
So this was the end of
continental Europe here,
536
00:34:40,979 --> 00:34:42,859
this extraordinary place.
537
00:34:43,019 --> 00:34:44,939
So there are these flowers which I...
538
00:34:45,099 --> 00:34:47,059
send as an offering.
539
00:34:49,579 --> 00:34:53,979
And also I have brought...
as an offering -
540
00:34:54,139 --> 00:34:56,939
it's really to Charon the boatman
who will be underground -
541
00:34:57,099 --> 00:34:58,859
I've brought two coins,
542
00:35:00,459 --> 00:35:02,499
and I offer these to the gods.
543
00:35:05,579 --> 00:35:07,619
And one last thing
I brought with me...
544
00:35:09,339 --> 00:35:11,979
I wanted to offer something
that was of real value,
545
00:35:12,139 --> 00:35:14,219
and so I've brought a pearl,
546
00:35:14,379 --> 00:35:17,659
for the spirits of all the people
who've gone into the underworld
547
00:35:17,819 --> 00:35:19,779
and can never come out again.
548
00:35:32,619 --> 00:35:34,539
As we retreat from the gates of hell,
549
00:35:34,699 --> 00:35:37,859
a strong wind whips up, blowing us
safely back to shore.
550
00:35:38,739 --> 00:35:43,019
Tomorrow we visit the birthplace of
the most spectacular event on earth -
551
00:35:43,579 --> 00:35:45,619
the Olympics.
552
00:35:57,634 --> 00:36:00,754
I've left the barren region
of the Mani peninsula behind.
553
00:36:04,354 --> 00:36:08,034
And I'm travelling north to one of
the most famous of sporting arenas,
554
00:36:08,194 --> 00:36:10,154
ancient Olympia.
555
00:36:14,794 --> 00:36:17,074
With the Olympics in Britain
almost upon us,
556
00:36:17,234 --> 00:36:20,754
I don't need to tell you how
important sport is in our society.
557
00:36:21,394 --> 00:36:25,434
It all started in Olympia
nearly 3000 years ago.
558
00:36:25,594 --> 00:36:29,154
The ancient Olympic Games were
the pinnacle of athletic achievement.
559
00:36:33,594 --> 00:36:35,314
With half a square mile of ruins,
560
00:36:35,474 --> 00:36:37,354
the site was a health sanctuary,
561
00:36:37,514 --> 00:36:39,714
a bit like a modern-day
Olympic village.
562
00:36:43,394 --> 00:36:47,474
At its very heart is the place
where men were worshipped like gods.
563
00:36:50,754 --> 00:36:52,674
This is the archway
564
00:36:52,834 --> 00:36:55,394
through which
all the Olympic athletes passed.
565
00:36:56,194 --> 00:36:58,994
Thick walls, you can
almost feel it throbbing off it.
566
00:36:59,154 --> 00:37:01,834
Bunched up, nerves jangling,
sweating slightly
567
00:37:01,994 --> 00:37:05,354
with the anticipation of
this phenomenal trial ahead of them.
568
00:37:05,514 --> 00:37:07,394
(Gasps) Look, look, look.
569
00:37:07,554 --> 00:37:09,514
This is the stadium.
570
00:37:10,754 --> 00:37:13,474
Look at the size of this place!
571
00:37:23,874 --> 00:37:26,354
This held 45,000 spectators,
572
00:37:26,514 --> 00:37:30,274
and they all sat on grass, except
for the judges who sat on seats.
573
00:37:30,434 --> 00:37:33,314
They had running races - they always
had the same sort of disciplines.
574
00:37:33,474 --> 00:37:36,634
There was the pentathlon,
which was running,
575
00:37:36,794 --> 00:37:39,634
jumping -
jumping from the start like that -
576
00:37:39,794 --> 00:37:42,434
it was throwing the javelin,
throwing the discus,
577
00:37:42,594 --> 00:37:44,514
and it was wrestling.
578
00:37:45,274 --> 00:37:47,154
What they didn't have in those days
579
00:37:47,314 --> 00:37:49,274
was synchronised swimming...
580
00:37:50,594 --> 00:37:52,474
ping pong...
581
00:37:52,634 --> 00:37:54,594
you know what I mean?
582
00:37:55,394 --> 00:37:57,354
Man's games, held in the nude.
583
00:37:58,194 --> 00:38:00,794
Married women weren't allowed
to come and watch them
584
00:38:00,954 --> 00:38:04,474
because it was considered that
the athletes were so attractive -
585
00:38:04,634 --> 00:38:07,954
Here come some damn attractive
athletes sprinting past now...
586
00:38:09,474 --> 00:38:11,394
The athletes were so attractive,
587
00:38:11,554 --> 00:38:14,154
the women wouldn't be able to
contain themselves
588
00:38:14,314 --> 00:38:16,354
and would become unfaithful
to their husbands.
589
00:38:16,514 --> 00:38:18,954
So virgins or unmarried girls
were allowed in to watch.
590
00:38:19,114 --> 00:38:21,394
Women weren't allowed to do anything.
591
00:38:21,554 --> 00:38:26,314
Vous connaissez des histoires
des Jeux Olympiques?
592
00:38:26,474 --> 00:38:28,834
Ben, un peu, parce qu'il y a...
593
00:38:29,434 --> 00:38:31,354
A little bit? Yeah?
594
00:38:31,514 --> 00:38:34,474
I asked if they know about
the Olympic Games and the history,
595
00:38:34,634 --> 00:38:36,474
and I think they've come here
to learn about it.
596
00:38:36,634 --> 00:38:39,314
The great thing is,
the second you arrive here,
597
00:38:39,474 --> 00:38:42,514
all you can think about is testing
yourself - you can't help it.
598
00:38:42,674 --> 00:38:45,834
It's like a trigger. You go
"The Olympic track, I must run it!"
599
00:38:45,994 --> 00:38:49,354
Even though it's extremely hot -
il fait tres, tres chaud aujourd'hui.
600
00:38:49,514 --> 00:38:51,434
But you just have to do it,
601
00:38:51,594 --> 00:38:53,434
just to match yourself up
to Olympian standards.
602
00:38:53,594 --> 00:38:55,994
These girlies wouldn't have been
allowed to in the old days,
603
00:38:56,154 --> 00:38:57,994
so times have changed.
604
00:38:58,154 --> 00:38:59,154
Merci beaucoup.
605
00:39:09,754 --> 00:39:12,194
Delphi lies to the north
of the bay of Corinth.
606
00:39:13,394 --> 00:39:16,394
It was the most sacred place
in the ancient world
607
00:39:16,554 --> 00:39:19,074
where emperors, peasants
and warriors alike
608
00:39:19,234 --> 00:39:22,034
sought the mystical predictions
of the Oracle.
609
00:39:27,954 --> 00:39:30,154
I'm following in the footsteps
of Odysseus,
610
00:39:30,314 --> 00:39:32,274
Alexander the Great,
611
00:39:32,434 --> 00:39:34,394
and Apollo himself.
612
00:39:46,674 --> 00:39:48,674
This is Delphi.
613
00:39:54,034 --> 00:39:56,674
And this is where the Oracle...
lives.
614
00:39:57,274 --> 00:39:59,994
And there's a huge resonance
about this valley.
615
00:40:00,514 --> 00:40:02,634
(Whispers) It's fantastic.
616
00:40:05,034 --> 00:40:08,594
Why did they come here
to this particular place,
even before it was called Delphi?
617
00:40:08,754 --> 00:40:09,834
Well, this is why...
618
00:40:09,994 --> 00:40:14,354
Zeus... released two eagles
at the end of the earth,
619
00:40:14,514 --> 00:40:17,194
and where they met and clashed
620
00:40:17,354 --> 00:40:19,274
was here.
621
00:40:19,434 --> 00:40:22,794
And so this became what Zeus called
the navel - the tummy button -
622
00:40:22,954 --> 00:40:24,834
the navel of the world.
623
00:40:24,994 --> 00:40:27,234
The very centre, the very core,
624
00:40:27,394 --> 00:40:30,514
so this was already chosen by Zeus,
god of gods,
625
00:40:30,674 --> 00:40:32,434
to be the centre of the world.
626
00:40:32,594 --> 00:40:35,114
We are standing now
in the centre of the world.
627
00:40:35,274 --> 00:40:39,034
No wonder people came here,
for whatever reason.
628
00:40:41,514 --> 00:40:43,554
And they still do in their thousands.
629
00:40:46,474 --> 00:40:50,034
But some people come for
more than souvenirs and photographs.
630
00:40:50,954 --> 00:40:54,874
54-year-old James Head was living in
London, working as a maths teacher,
631
00:40:55,034 --> 00:40:57,994
until he came to Delphi
for the first time, 12 years ago.
632
00:40:59,034 --> 00:41:00,954
So what happened - you arrived here?
633
00:41:01,114 --> 00:41:03,794
All of a sudden it was
a kind of eureka moment for me,
634
00:41:03,954 --> 00:41:06,994
that perhaps there is
something sacred, something holy,
635
00:41:07,154 --> 00:41:09,634
somewhere, and in different places,
636
00:41:09,794 --> 00:41:13,514
and it just so happened that the
first time I ever had that feeling
637
00:41:13,674 --> 00:41:14,954
was here in Delphi.
638
00:41:15,114 --> 00:41:21,154
For you... this sense of spirituality
came alive because of Apollo?
639
00:41:21,314 --> 00:41:23,594
It came alive in this place,
640
00:41:23,754 --> 00:41:27,714
and I suppose this place
is firmly associated with Apollo.
641
00:41:27,874 --> 00:41:30,274
It was a life-changing experience
for me.
642
00:41:30,434 --> 00:41:32,154
How has it changed your life?
643
00:41:32,314 --> 00:41:35,554
From that first visit, I find myself
living here full time.
644
00:41:35,714 --> 00:41:38,634
Obviously
I visit the temple regularly,
645
00:41:38,794 --> 00:41:40,594
I say a few prayers.
646
00:41:40,754 --> 00:41:43,674
As in ancient times, I offer
a little wine to the god.
647
00:41:43,834 --> 00:41:45,634
A little libation.
648
00:41:45,794 --> 00:41:49,514
Libation or whatever it is. I don't
really understand why it is I do it,
649
00:41:49,674 --> 00:41:52,434
I just feel that...
that is something I like to do.
650
00:41:52,594 --> 00:41:55,634
And although I...
have travelled a little,
651
00:41:55,794 --> 00:41:57,714
and could travel to other places,
652
00:41:57,874 --> 00:42:00,954
I find myself coming back here
time and time again.
653
00:42:01,114 --> 00:42:03,674
Because when I'm up there
pouring my libation, Joanna,
654
00:42:03,834 --> 00:42:06,314
there's nowhere I'd sooner be.
655
00:42:10,234 --> 00:42:12,594
Now, it was my turn to meet Apollo,
656
00:42:12,754 --> 00:42:15,754
the god of light, prophecy and truth.
657
00:42:16,674 --> 00:42:18,754
It seems extraordinary
that 100 years ago
658
00:42:18,914 --> 00:42:21,874
this sacred site
in the shadow of Mount Parnassus
659
00:42:22,034 --> 00:42:23,914
was hidden from the world,
660
00:42:24,074 --> 00:42:25,954
covered by 30 feet of earth,
661
00:42:26,114 --> 00:42:28,034
with a village built on top.
662
00:42:28,194 --> 00:42:31,794
When they French excavated it,
they were astonished and delighted
663
00:42:31,954 --> 00:42:36,874
to find a ruined city of
3000 statues, monuments and temples.
664
00:42:39,394 --> 00:42:41,834
These steps would have been
alive with pilgrims,
665
00:42:41,994 --> 00:42:44,114
plodding up
their last, last weary way
666
00:42:44,274 --> 00:42:46,194
at the end of this immense journey
667
00:42:46,354 --> 00:42:49,474
to come... to the centre...
of the world.
668
00:42:49,634 --> 00:42:51,554
The place they'd been longing to see.
669
00:42:51,714 --> 00:42:52,954
(Gasps)
670
00:42:53,114 --> 00:42:55,714
The Temple of Apollo.
671
00:43:04,474 --> 00:43:08,554
This is how the Temple of Apollo
would have looked in ancient times.
672
00:43:14,594 --> 00:43:17,474
The most important decisions
in ancient Greek history
673
00:43:17,634 --> 00:43:19,514
were made by the Oracle,
674
00:43:19,674 --> 00:43:22,234
who sat underground
in the centre of the temple.
675
00:43:26,394 --> 00:43:28,434
But scientists today have discovered
676
00:43:28,594 --> 00:43:31,634
that the site was built
on the top of an ancient fault line
677
00:43:31,794 --> 00:43:34,274
which emitted hallucinogenic gases.
678
00:43:37,274 --> 00:43:40,594
And look here.
I've been told about this.
679
00:43:40,754 --> 00:43:44,954
This is where the Delphic Oracle...
had her tripod seat.
680
00:43:45,114 --> 00:43:48,074
The legs of the tripod were there,
so her seat...
681
00:43:48,234 --> 00:43:49,634
This was obviously that way round.
682
00:43:49,794 --> 00:43:51,994
The seat was here, and here in front
683
00:43:52,634 --> 00:43:55,674
is the hole through which
the methane or ethanol gas...
684
00:43:56,554 --> 00:43:58,474
came hurtling out.
685
00:43:58,634 --> 00:44:01,394
Anyway, some sort of mind-altering
gas. And she was sitting on here.
686
00:44:01,554 --> 00:44:03,714
Some people say
she was chewing daphne leaves.
687
00:44:03,874 --> 00:44:08,074
Whatever it was, she was in a trance,
a complete stewed state.
688
00:44:08,234 --> 00:44:11,514
So what people asked her,
she was actually talking in tongues.
689
00:44:11,674 --> 00:44:15,154
I've seen this in the high hills
of Hunza in the Karakorums,
690
00:44:15,314 --> 00:44:19,794
where they inhale juniper smoke,
so people became high as kites.
691
00:44:19,954 --> 00:44:22,354
And this prophetess, this seer,
this oracle,
692
00:44:22,514 --> 00:44:25,634
was high as a kite and couldn't
even speak her own language.
693
00:44:25,794 --> 00:44:28,394
She was just... (Mumbles)
gibbering, gibbering.
694
00:44:28,554 --> 00:44:30,114
And priests listened
and interpreted
695
00:44:30,274 --> 00:44:33,394
and people came and said
"Should we go to war? Is this wise?"
696
00:44:33,554 --> 00:44:36,674
"Should I get married?"
"Should our countries separate?"
697
00:44:36,834 --> 00:44:39,194
And the Oracle would...
(Makes gibbering noise)
698
00:44:39,354 --> 00:44:40,754
and the priests would interpret it.
699
00:44:40,914 --> 00:44:43,514
The priests were terribly important,
terribly influential.
700
00:44:43,674 --> 00:44:46,234
But the Oracle was the thing.
701
00:44:46,394 --> 00:44:48,514
She was always a woman over 50,
702
00:44:48,674 --> 00:44:52,114
and she was called Pythia,
named after the python,
703
00:44:52,834 --> 00:44:54,754
which was what Apollo slew.
704
00:44:54,914 --> 00:44:58,154
I know this sounds complicated
but it's absolutely fascinating
705
00:44:58,314 --> 00:45:00,714
when you can get your head round it,
which I almost have.
706
00:45:00,874 --> 00:45:04,674
I'll take a whiff of this and I could
probably speak to you in tongues.
707
00:45:04,834 --> 00:45:07,394
(Gibbers)
708
00:45:09,074 --> 00:45:10,954
I could still say Mount Parnassus.
709
00:45:11,114 --> 00:45:13,074
This is my hero.
710
00:45:18,474 --> 00:45:22,274
If the Oracle had spoken to me,
she would have said
711
00:45:22,434 --> 00:45:25,634
"I see you travelling in Greece,
and in the next episode
712
00:45:25,794 --> 00:45:29,034
"you shall explore
the remote northern borderlands."
713
00:45:30,114 --> 00:45:33,394
So, who am I to defy
the ancient Oracle of Delphi?
714
00:46:04,274 --> 00:46:04,314
Captions (c) SBS Australia 2018
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