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These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:13,504 --> 00:00:15,544 I'm in Athens, the capital of Greece, 2 00:00:15,704 --> 00:00:17,984 and I'm standing on the Acropolis 3 00:00:18,144 --> 00:00:20,864 which was created at the very dawn of European history. 4 00:00:23,584 --> 00:00:26,384 Now in this series, I'm going to be studying all things Greek - 5 00:00:26,544 --> 00:00:28,264 both ancient and modern - 6 00:00:28,424 --> 00:00:31,784 by taking a journey through her incredibly rich history. 7 00:00:36,344 --> 00:00:38,824 This is where Western civilisation began. 8 00:00:39,784 --> 00:00:42,784 Drama, democracy, language, science, medicine... 9 00:00:42,944 --> 00:00:45,184 This country has given us so much, 10 00:00:45,944 --> 00:00:48,784 and it's influenced the fabric of our everyday life. 11 00:00:52,744 --> 00:00:56,704 If you're like me, you probably know something, or nothing, about Greece. 12 00:00:56,864 --> 00:00:58,824 Some names are incredibly familiar - 13 00:00:58,984 --> 00:01:03,664 the Parthenon, Zeus, Mount Olympus, Socrates, Zorba the Greek... 14 00:01:05,864 --> 00:01:07,904 But beyond this patchwork knowledge 15 00:01:08,064 --> 00:01:09,744 is a country as different and surprising 16 00:01:09,904 --> 00:01:12,064 as any I've ever visited. 17 00:01:12,224 --> 00:01:14,544 Oh, look at this! 18 00:01:14,704 --> 00:01:16,584 From the living history of its islands 19 00:01:16,744 --> 00:01:19,504 to the turbulent borderlands and remote mountains, 20 00:01:19,664 --> 00:01:21,544 the land of the gods. 21 00:01:21,704 --> 00:01:23,424 This is Delphi. 22 00:01:23,784 --> 00:01:27,184 Roaming through this country to understand modern Greece, 23 00:01:27,344 --> 00:01:31,184 I follow a route through some of its most influential past, 24 00:01:31,344 --> 00:01:34,264 which shaped the world we live in today. 25 00:01:54,304 --> 00:01:56,864 Athens is one of the world's oldest cities, 26 00:01:57,024 --> 00:02:00,424 with at least 7000 years of recorded history. 27 00:02:02,024 --> 00:02:04,904 Here, the past seeps out of every street corner. 28 00:02:07,904 --> 00:02:11,064 But one era defines this city more than any other - 29 00:02:11,224 --> 00:02:13,104 that of the ancient Greeks, 30 00:02:13,264 --> 00:02:15,224 who lived 2500 years ago. 31 00:02:18,864 --> 00:02:21,944 I thought I'd start my odyssey in the south of the country, 32 00:02:22,104 --> 00:02:25,704 visiting the most important sites left by this great civilisation. 33 00:02:25,864 --> 00:02:29,544 From places of theatre, myth, sport and religion, 34 00:02:30,424 --> 00:02:33,264 they represent the very cornerstone of this empire. 35 00:02:36,744 --> 00:02:39,064 First on the list - the Acropolis, 36 00:02:40,024 --> 00:02:42,984 which surely defines the meaning of the word 'iconic'. 37 00:02:49,144 --> 00:02:51,624 It was the beating heart of this civilisation, 38 00:02:51,784 --> 00:02:55,384 a symbol of their democracy, wealth and artistic philosophy. 39 00:02:57,264 --> 00:02:59,224 Fantastic - so many people. 40 00:02:59,384 --> 00:03:02,224 So many tourists for this incredibly popular place. 41 00:03:05,024 --> 00:03:07,944 Today, a million people visit the Acropolis each year, 42 00:03:08,104 --> 00:03:11,424 making it one of Greece's most popular tourist attractions. 43 00:03:12,864 --> 00:03:16,424 Imagine walking up here for the first time, like me, 44 00:03:19,944 --> 00:03:21,944 and seeing ahead of you the Parthenon, 45 00:03:22,104 --> 00:03:24,224 the great temple of the goddess Athena. 46 00:03:31,104 --> 00:03:33,224 It's an architectural masterpiece 47 00:03:33,384 --> 00:03:35,824 made up of 15,000 pieces, 48 00:03:35,984 --> 00:03:37,824 weighing 20,000 tonnes. 49 00:03:39,784 --> 00:03:43,824 This is the largest ancient building created entirely from marble. 50 00:03:48,224 --> 00:03:50,744 It's always extraordinary to come to a building 51 00:03:50,904 --> 00:03:53,664 that you know so well from... pictures and drawings, 52 00:03:53,824 --> 00:03:55,744 and imitations around the world. 53 00:03:55,904 --> 00:03:58,944 Just to come and stand in it and to be in this great temple... 54 00:03:59,784 --> 00:04:01,584 How did they do it? 55 00:04:01,744 --> 00:04:03,984 How did they get the weight of this stuff - 56 00:04:04,144 --> 00:04:06,464 How did they cut it so... beautifully and... 57 00:04:07,384 --> 00:04:10,064 There are men here restoring, cladding it. 58 00:04:10,544 --> 00:04:12,504 Painstaking work... 59 00:04:13,344 --> 00:04:15,904 Oh, look - here's the person I'm longing to meet. 60 00:04:17,024 --> 00:04:19,824 Oh, Joanna! How are you? 61 00:04:19,984 --> 00:04:22,944 Dr Ioannidou is in charge of the restoration project. 62 00:04:23,464 --> 00:04:27,064 These marble cutters are working very hard, 63 00:04:27,224 --> 00:04:30,744 in order to produce in the new marble... 64 00:04:30,904 --> 00:04:34,824 Yes... ..the curving lines of these flutes. 65 00:04:34,984 --> 00:04:36,744 So they look straight? 66 00:04:36,904 --> 00:04:39,984 Yes, they look, but they are not straight. Slightly curved. 67 00:04:40,144 --> 00:04:42,064 They are slightly curved. 68 00:04:42,224 --> 00:04:44,584 To please the eye? Yes, of course. 69 00:04:44,744 --> 00:04:47,784 And you've kept the different colour for a purpose? 70 00:04:47,944 --> 00:04:49,864 Yes. Paler, but to show... 71 00:04:50,024 --> 00:04:53,344 Yes. Everybody can understand... Yes. 72 00:04:53,504 --> 00:04:55,824 ..what is new and what is old. 73 00:04:58,624 --> 00:05:00,344 To rebuild the temple, 74 00:05:00,504 --> 00:05:03,624 the sculptors must complete the ultimate jigsaw puzzle. 75 00:05:03,784 --> 00:05:06,864 All the pieces of marble sitting loose around the monument 76 00:05:07,024 --> 00:05:09,144 must find a place. 77 00:05:10,224 --> 00:05:13,224 But to do that, they must produce new, intricate pieces 78 00:05:13,384 --> 00:05:15,784 that link together these ancient parts. 79 00:05:20,024 --> 00:05:23,344 Using many of the same tools and methods as their ancestors, 80 00:05:23,504 --> 00:05:27,184 each piece of new marble must match the exact contours 81 00:05:27,344 --> 00:05:29,344 of the original block. 82 00:05:34,784 --> 00:05:36,704 They've got wet clay here, 83 00:05:36,864 --> 00:05:40,664 so rather like at the dentist to see if you've got a perfect bite, 84 00:05:40,824 --> 00:05:42,744 he puts a little piece of paper in 85 00:05:42,904 --> 00:05:45,784 and then you take it out to see where it's meeting or not. 86 00:05:45,944 --> 00:05:49,944 And it'll take about a month for each block like this to be done perfectly. 87 00:05:51,344 --> 00:05:53,544 MEN SPEAK IN GREEK 88 00:05:54,704 --> 00:05:57,264 So they can see by what's left here 89 00:05:58,024 --> 00:05:59,824 where this hasn't quite married. 90 00:05:59,984 --> 00:06:03,064 Because you've got to make an absolutely perfect fit, 91 00:06:03,224 --> 00:06:05,984 if it's just like that, they have to take that bit off, 92 00:06:06,144 --> 00:06:08,104 so it fits absolutely like a glove. 93 00:06:09,384 --> 00:06:11,744 They only chip away from the new marble. 94 00:06:12,144 --> 00:06:14,024 The old marble is sacred. 95 00:06:14,184 --> 00:06:16,144 Staggering. 96 00:06:17,504 --> 00:06:20,944 This entire place is a work of absolute genius. 97 00:06:21,104 --> 00:06:22,984 Not the genius of one man - 98 00:06:23,144 --> 00:06:25,064 the genius of thousands of men, 99 00:06:25,224 --> 00:06:27,664 and do you know how long it took to build? 100 00:06:27,824 --> 00:06:29,464 This entire temple... 101 00:06:29,904 --> 00:06:32,424 Ten years. That's all. 102 00:06:33,664 --> 00:06:36,304 But this job will take longer than ten years. 103 00:06:36,904 --> 00:06:39,024 It has suffered centuries of abuse. 104 00:06:39,184 --> 00:06:41,384 Oh, look at this. Yeah. 105 00:06:41,544 --> 00:06:44,624 First, it was used as a gunpowder store by the Ottomans. 106 00:06:44,784 --> 00:06:46,664 Then, blown up by the Venetians. 107 00:06:46,824 --> 00:06:48,744 And an Englishman, Lord Elgin, 108 00:06:48,904 --> 00:06:51,784 removed parts and sent them home to the British Museum. 109 00:06:51,944 --> 00:06:55,504 Even now, a bone of contention between the Greeks and the British. 110 00:06:55,664 --> 00:06:57,664 You do this every day? Don't look down. 111 00:06:57,824 --> 00:06:59,704 Don't look down. I won't look down, 112 00:06:59,864 --> 00:07:02,264 but you must go slowly and not... leave me. 113 00:07:03,864 --> 00:07:06,344 I'm being taken to see some of the restoration. 114 00:07:06,504 --> 00:07:09,224 But it's at a terrifying distance from the ground. 115 00:07:12,184 --> 00:07:14,064 I have to hold on both sides, 116 00:07:14,224 --> 00:07:18,104 because I have to lull myself into a sense of absolutely not looking down 117 00:07:18,264 --> 00:07:20,264 being okay. 118 00:07:21,544 --> 00:07:24,744 Almost the greatest dread of my life is vertigo. 119 00:07:24,904 --> 00:07:26,664 As a child I once got stuck on a ladder, 120 00:07:26,824 --> 00:07:28,904 and my sister had to come and help me down. 121 00:07:29,064 --> 00:07:30,984 I was about seven. 122 00:07:31,144 --> 00:07:34,224 I got stuck and she had to move every finger and every foot, 123 00:07:34,384 --> 00:07:38,064 to take me down and it took about, I don't know, 25 minutes. 124 00:07:38,544 --> 00:07:40,384 So coming up here... 125 00:07:40,544 --> 00:07:42,464 I felt that, quite frankly, 126 00:07:42,624 --> 00:07:44,784 I was doing it for the viewers. 127 00:07:45,824 --> 00:07:48,104 That's you. Because I love you. 128 00:07:51,864 --> 00:07:54,224 The restorers working at these perilous heights 129 00:07:54,384 --> 00:07:57,344 are involved in their most delicate project - 130 00:07:57,504 --> 00:08:00,344 protecting the marble that has been ravaged by pollution, 131 00:08:00,504 --> 00:08:03,264 and previous botched restoration work. 132 00:08:05,744 --> 00:08:07,544 Is this water? Yes. 133 00:08:07,704 --> 00:08:09,704 Yes, it's water... 134 00:08:10,744 --> 00:08:12,664 ..to remove the dust. Yes. 135 00:08:13,464 --> 00:08:15,424 From inside. 136 00:08:15,584 --> 00:08:18,704 You can see? I can see. Look how it's coming off. 137 00:08:21,184 --> 00:08:23,024 And this is the figure of a man. 138 00:08:23,184 --> 00:08:25,144 Here's his beautiful arm here. 139 00:08:25,304 --> 00:08:28,144 Yes. This is quite extraordinary, because here we are 140 00:08:28,304 --> 00:08:31,664 on one of the most colossal, monumental buildings in the world. 141 00:08:31,824 --> 00:08:33,784 And look at the size of these tools 142 00:08:33,944 --> 00:08:35,904 that are being used, like a dentist's - 143 00:08:36,064 --> 00:08:37,984 Yes, they are dentists'. 144 00:08:38,144 --> 00:08:40,384 They are? They are dentists' tools. 145 00:08:40,544 --> 00:08:42,984 And also this. Oh, look at this. 146 00:08:44,104 --> 00:08:45,984 Dentists use it. 147 00:08:46,144 --> 00:08:48,104 Wow, isn't that extraordinary? 148 00:08:49,824 --> 00:08:51,864 The love and care that the modern Greeks 149 00:08:52,024 --> 00:08:54,224 are lavishing on this matchless monument 150 00:08:54,384 --> 00:08:56,984 are just what this glorious building deserves. 151 00:08:58,064 --> 00:08:59,984 From the White House in Washington, 152 00:09:00,144 --> 00:09:02,424 to the Bank of England in the city of London, 153 00:09:02,584 --> 00:09:04,864 its architecture has been slavishly copied - 154 00:09:05,024 --> 00:09:07,464 a symbol of the importance of Greek culture 155 00:09:07,624 --> 00:09:09,624 throughout the world. 156 00:09:15,784 --> 00:09:17,704 After seeing the Acropolis today, 157 00:09:17,864 --> 00:09:21,344 it just made me think... how little we know about Ancient Greece 158 00:09:21,504 --> 00:09:25,144 and how nice it would be if we taught Latin and Greek again in schools. 159 00:09:25,304 --> 00:09:27,624 We could learn it, and it wouldn't just be... 160 00:09:27,784 --> 00:09:29,664 the lucky ones who got to know about it. 161 00:09:29,824 --> 00:09:32,304 Now there's something else we don't know about Greece - 162 00:09:32,464 --> 00:09:34,704 we think they smash plates - they don't. It's been outlawed. 163 00:09:34,864 --> 00:09:36,184 They threw so many plates at people 164 00:09:36,344 --> 00:09:38,624 to show their appreciation of singers and dancers 165 00:09:38,784 --> 00:09:41,064 that there were injuries! They've banned it. 166 00:09:41,224 --> 00:09:44,864 Instead of plates... they throw flowers. 167 00:09:50,264 --> 00:09:52,224 Throughout Greek history, 168 00:09:52,384 --> 00:09:54,824 flowers have been used as offerings to the gods. 169 00:09:54,984 --> 00:09:56,944 I'm off to a bouzoukia, 170 00:09:57,104 --> 00:09:59,544 which is a modern twist on an old tradition... 171 00:10:00,504 --> 00:10:02,264 There are 50 of these clubs in Athens 172 00:10:02,424 --> 00:10:04,424 which, after midnight, 173 00:10:04,584 --> 00:10:06,944 cater for Greeks who want... a wild night out. 174 00:10:07,104 --> 00:10:09,064 Joanna. 175 00:10:09,224 --> 00:10:11,344 Yassas. How are you, fine? 176 00:10:11,504 --> 00:10:13,584 Yes. Welcome to Caramela. 177 00:10:13,744 --> 00:10:17,024 My host tonight is nightclub owner Iannis Boytypakos, 178 00:10:17,184 --> 00:10:19,184 which means 'naughty boy'. 179 00:10:22,264 --> 00:10:24,104 This is no ordinary nightclub. 180 00:10:24,264 --> 00:10:26,504 Audiences can reach 5000, 181 00:10:26,664 --> 00:10:29,584 dancing through the night to a succession of singers. 182 00:10:34,624 --> 00:10:36,584 But I've come for the main event, 183 00:10:36,744 --> 00:10:39,184 when crowds start to celebrate Greek-style... 184 00:10:39,344 --> 00:10:41,344 with flowers. 185 00:10:45,104 --> 00:10:47,744 They have them on these little wicker trays, 186 00:10:47,904 --> 00:10:49,744 racked up five high. 187 00:10:49,904 --> 00:10:52,744 Those cost 60 euros so about 50 quid, 188 00:10:53,664 --> 00:10:56,584 and those are coming in and being thrown plenty. 189 00:10:56,744 --> 00:10:59,304 So this is extraordinary in a country which is, 190 00:11:00,024 --> 00:11:04,424 to a certain extent really suffering very badly, erm... financially. 191 00:11:07,504 --> 00:11:10,504 I don't think a lot of them are tremendously rich. 192 00:11:11,024 --> 00:11:13,984 In fact, Greece has one of the worst economies in Europe. 193 00:11:14,144 --> 00:11:16,544 But it's a tradition for bouzoukia revellers 194 00:11:16,704 --> 00:11:18,664 to pay a fortune for their flowers. 195 00:11:20,264 --> 00:11:22,224 Their bill for the night... 196 00:11:22,384 --> 00:11:24,624 can be more than the cost of a brand-new car. 197 00:11:25,904 --> 00:11:28,264 We live for the day - for this day. 198 00:11:28,424 --> 00:11:31,944 For this moment? Yes, for the moment. We don't care for tomorrow. 199 00:11:32,104 --> 00:11:35,944 And you party all through the night? Tomorrow maybe everything... boom. 200 00:11:36,104 --> 00:11:38,824 And do you think when Greece recovers its economy - 201 00:11:38,984 --> 00:11:40,824 I don't think it will recover ever. 202 00:11:40,984 --> 00:11:42,544 Don't you think? 203 00:11:43,104 --> 00:11:46,584 The most important thing is to go out, have a good time, 204 00:11:46,744 --> 00:11:48,344 make yourself happy. 205 00:11:48,504 --> 00:11:51,464 Let tomorrow take care of itself. Live for the moment. 206 00:11:54,824 --> 00:11:57,064 It's coming up for three o'clock now. 207 00:11:57,744 --> 00:12:00,024 That's pretty early for me, as you can guess, 208 00:12:00,184 --> 00:12:02,144 but I might just call it a day. 209 00:12:13,424 --> 00:12:17,064 Whilst the culture of bouzoukia has changed to suit modern tastes, 210 00:12:17,224 --> 00:12:20,024 there's another tradition which has remained the same 211 00:12:20,184 --> 00:12:21,624 for thousands of years, 212 00:12:21,784 --> 00:12:25,664 which today is virtually unknown - even here in Greece. 213 00:12:28,624 --> 00:12:31,144 I'm saying goodbye to Athens and the mainland. 214 00:12:34,704 --> 00:12:38,664 My guide Petros is taking me to the isolated corner of Evia, 215 00:12:38,824 --> 00:12:41,184 the second largest island in Greece. 216 00:12:44,424 --> 00:12:46,784 Throughout ancient times, Evia bore the brunt 217 00:12:46,944 --> 00:12:48,864 of a succession of invaders, 218 00:12:49,024 --> 00:12:51,104 intent on plundering Athens' riches. 219 00:12:54,704 --> 00:12:58,384 Here the hills have echoed to the sounds of an astonishing language, 220 00:12:58,544 --> 00:13:02,064 thought to be a relic of those ancient invasions. 221 00:13:03,904 --> 00:13:06,344 Finally, we arrive at the village of Antia. 222 00:13:06,504 --> 00:13:09,624 Up here? I think so. (Speaks Greek) 223 00:13:09,784 --> 00:13:11,784 (Whistles) 224 00:13:12,384 --> 00:13:14,344 It's Kyria Koula. 225 00:13:19,824 --> 00:13:21,984 (Speaks and whistles) 226 00:13:25,384 --> 00:13:27,824 (Joanna whistles) 227 00:13:27,984 --> 00:13:30,064 (Speaks Greek) Can she understand? 228 00:13:31,224 --> 00:13:34,664 I was only making it up! I don't know. 229 00:13:35,304 --> 00:13:37,264 (Speaks Greek) Yeah, she says, 230 00:13:37,424 --> 00:13:39,504 she said that she doesn't say something. 231 00:13:39,664 --> 00:13:41,544 I didn't say anything! 232 00:13:41,704 --> 00:13:43,904 She's found me out - I was just whistling. 233 00:13:58,304 --> 00:14:00,264 So that's her sound? 234 00:14:02,384 --> 00:14:03,544 Here come some people. 235 00:14:22,264 --> 00:14:25,544 The sound is actually like people who can whistle for taxis, 236 00:14:25,704 --> 00:14:27,824 which I can't do because my whistling is - 237 00:14:27,984 --> 00:14:31,864 I've been trying to practise all my - Jennifer Saunders can do it, I can't. 238 00:14:32,024 --> 00:14:33,944 I can't make a sound! I just dribble. 239 00:14:34,104 --> 00:14:35,984 I'd be hopeless up here, 240 00:14:36,144 --> 00:14:39,224 I wouldn't be able to get any tea for a neighbour or anything. 241 00:14:47,864 --> 00:14:50,904 Do our ladies know where the tradition of whistling came from? 242 00:15:12,864 --> 00:15:14,984 There is a belief that in ancient times, 243 00:15:15,144 --> 00:15:18,624 the invading Persians would post whistlers on the mountaintops 244 00:15:18,784 --> 00:15:22,224 as sentries, so they could signal an imminent attack on Athens. 245 00:15:24,104 --> 00:15:25,944 I'm just glad it wasn't my job. 246 00:15:26,104 --> 00:15:28,024 I wouldn't get anywhere near it, 247 00:15:28,184 --> 00:15:30,384 it would be as if I was dumb, being up here. 248 00:15:36,944 --> 00:15:38,824 One for the dogs! Look, the dogs - 249 00:15:38,984 --> 00:15:41,184 We've suddenly got a mass of dogs around. 250 00:15:54,864 --> 00:15:56,544 That reminds me strangely of - 251 00:15:56,704 --> 00:15:58,624 There's a goat on the roof over there! 252 00:15:58,784 --> 00:16:01,544 The goats are now climbing over the rooves towards us. 253 00:16:03,384 --> 00:16:05,344 Look, more goats have arrived. 254 00:16:07,624 --> 00:16:10,264 They know we're going to be having tea in a second. 255 00:16:10,424 --> 00:16:12,984 The cocks are crowing, it's... extraordinary. 256 00:16:13,144 --> 00:16:16,024 It's the nearest thing to Dr Dolittle I've ever seen. 257 00:16:16,184 --> 00:16:18,184 You whistle and the goats answer back, 258 00:16:18,344 --> 00:16:21,304 then you shout at them and they've got it, absolutely. 259 00:16:21,464 --> 00:16:23,664 (Woman calls out) (Goat bleats) 260 00:16:26,064 --> 00:16:29,824 This extraordinary language is in danger of being lost to the world. 261 00:16:32,624 --> 00:16:35,424 30 years ago, Antia was home to 100 people. 262 00:16:35,584 --> 00:16:37,544 Today, there are just 40. 263 00:16:40,304 --> 00:16:43,504 With all the youngsters gone, the school has closed. 264 00:16:43,664 --> 00:16:46,184 Only the older generation is left. 265 00:16:46,824 --> 00:16:50,264 Kyria, is it important... that whistling doesn't die out? 266 00:16:50,424 --> 00:16:52,424 How can you make sure... 267 00:16:52,584 --> 00:16:55,384 that future generations will continue to whistle? 268 00:17:13,624 --> 00:17:17,144 It's sad to think that after hundreds of generations of whistling, 269 00:17:17,304 --> 00:17:19,224 Kyria Koula and her friends 270 00:17:19,384 --> 00:17:22,864 might be the last to communicate in this strange language. 271 00:17:23,504 --> 00:17:25,464 As yet, none of their children 272 00:17:25,624 --> 00:17:28,024 have learnt to whistle like their ancestors. 273 00:17:42,264 --> 00:17:44,944 Back on the mainland I swap my car for the train 274 00:17:45,104 --> 00:17:46,824 for the next leg of my journey. 275 00:17:47,744 --> 00:17:50,784 Somehow I didn't expect the weather to be so... British. 276 00:17:53,984 --> 00:17:55,904 The train's just left Athens here 277 00:17:56,064 --> 00:17:58,584 and we're going to be travelling round, round, round, round 278 00:17:58,744 --> 00:18:04,024 into the Peloponnese, this sort of wild area which is... so mysterious, 279 00:18:04,184 --> 00:18:07,624 and of course the very birthplace of all the gods and myths and legends. 280 00:18:07,784 --> 00:18:09,864 Everything seemed to happen down here. 281 00:18:10,024 --> 00:18:11,944 My route will take me to the region's 282 00:18:12,104 --> 00:18:15,144 most spectacular mythical and historic sites, 283 00:18:15,304 --> 00:18:17,864 discovering places that drew masses of pilgrims 284 00:18:18,024 --> 00:18:20,024 from across the ancient Greek world. 285 00:18:20,704 --> 00:18:24,344 Ending my journey at this great civilisation's most sacred place - 286 00:18:25,304 --> 00:18:27,224 Delphi. 287 00:18:27,384 --> 00:18:29,704 But first my train is taking me to Epidavros, 288 00:18:29,864 --> 00:18:32,584 the most famous theatre in the ancient world. 289 00:18:33,104 --> 00:18:35,424 As an actress, I'm longing to see this place. 290 00:18:35,584 --> 00:18:38,704 The legendary acoustics of what we call Epidaurus 291 00:18:38,864 --> 00:18:41,144 has attracted some of our modern-day greats 292 00:18:41,304 --> 00:18:44,024 like Pavarotti and Mariah Callas. 293 00:18:47,464 --> 00:18:50,744 I'm meeting one of the most popular female singers of them all, 294 00:18:50,904 --> 00:18:52,544 Nana Mouskouri. 295 00:18:53,824 --> 00:19:01,144 # So goodbye, my love, till then, till... # 296 00:19:01,304 --> 00:19:03,224 Over her 50-year career, 297 00:19:03,384 --> 00:19:06,344 Nana is claimed to have sold more records in more countries 298 00:19:06,504 --> 00:19:08,304 than any other woman. 299 00:19:08,464 --> 00:19:13,224 # Goodbye till then # 300 00:19:17,784 --> 00:19:20,144 Oh, look at this! 301 00:19:20,624 --> 00:19:22,824 Isn't that wonderful? 302 00:19:26,744 --> 00:19:29,264 Epidavros was built in the 4th century BC 303 00:19:29,424 --> 00:19:32,344 to honour the god of healing Asclepius, son of Apollo. 304 00:19:33,224 --> 00:19:35,144 It was a sanctuary to cure the sick, 305 00:19:35,304 --> 00:19:38,104 and for the Greeks, theatre was part of the medicine. 306 00:19:38,264 --> 00:19:41,704 There were comedies, singing contests and great tragic plays. 307 00:19:42,424 --> 00:19:44,424 It's a very mystical place 308 00:19:44,584 --> 00:19:46,464 and it's a place where everybody comes 309 00:19:46,624 --> 00:19:49,184 to participate, to get together. 310 00:19:49,344 --> 00:19:52,264 One does feel... an extraordinary presence here. 311 00:19:52,424 --> 00:19:54,304 It is. It's true, isn't it? 312 00:19:54,464 --> 00:19:57,224 We believe that it is inhabited by gods, 313 00:19:57,384 --> 00:19:59,144 by semi gods. 314 00:19:59,304 --> 00:20:03,104 The legends survive, and here it's full of legends. 315 00:20:03,264 --> 00:20:05,984 Have you sung here? No. (Laughs) 316 00:20:06,144 --> 00:20:07,184 No? 317 00:20:07,344 --> 00:20:10,064 No, I haven't had this, er... this honour, really. 318 00:20:10,944 --> 00:20:13,944 It's the dream of every, I think, of every singer. 319 00:20:15,424 --> 00:20:17,824 Trained as a classical singer, the young Nana 320 00:20:17,984 --> 00:20:20,384 was cast to sing in the chorus of an opera here. 321 00:20:20,544 --> 00:20:22,664 But at the last moment she was dismissed, 322 00:20:22,824 --> 00:20:26,224 simply because she was considered to be a pop star. 323 00:20:27,224 --> 00:20:28,904 When we arrived here, 324 00:20:29,064 --> 00:20:31,144 they got... an order 325 00:20:31,304 --> 00:20:34,544 from the highest point possible, 326 00:20:34,704 --> 00:20:36,784 not to use me, 327 00:20:36,944 --> 00:20:38,624 because it became a scandal, 328 00:20:38,784 --> 00:20:40,704 and I was really - 329 00:20:40,864 --> 00:20:42,704 I came back the next day all by myself 330 00:20:42,864 --> 00:20:44,784 crying all the way through. 331 00:20:44,944 --> 00:20:47,544 So it was something... For me it was a sort of stigma. 332 00:20:47,704 --> 00:20:50,704 Those slights, those injuries sit deep in your heart. 333 00:20:50,864 --> 00:20:55,184 Yes, I think I never learned more than from my failures. 334 00:20:55,344 --> 00:20:57,984 Yes... and this was no failure. 335 00:20:58,744 --> 00:21:02,784 You can be heard all over the auditorium by an audience of 15,000, 336 00:21:03,784 --> 00:21:06,744 especially if you stand bang in the middle of the stage. 337 00:21:06,904 --> 00:21:08,664 (Calls out) 338 00:21:09,024 --> 00:21:11,624 The acoustics are so special. Can we test them? 339 00:21:11,784 --> 00:21:14,424 You... you don't think you'd sing? 340 00:21:15,424 --> 00:21:17,664 Should I try? Will you please try? 341 00:21:17,824 --> 00:21:19,904 I'll try. I don't know what to do. 342 00:21:20,064 --> 00:21:22,224 I did not rehearse, I did not... Oh, please. 343 00:21:23,104 --> 00:21:25,024 It's a pleasure. Yes, I will do it. 344 00:21:25,184 --> 00:21:28,144 Miss Mouskouri, this is your five-minute call. 345 00:21:28,304 --> 00:21:29,744 Okay. 346 00:21:29,904 --> 00:21:32,424 I go fast, and I better have a good voice. 347 00:21:34,904 --> 00:21:37,984 I should be able to hear Nana perfectly right up at the back, 348 00:21:38,144 --> 00:21:40,064 200 feet away. 349 00:21:40,224 --> 00:21:42,984 The shape of the theatre and the use of limestone rock 350 00:21:43,144 --> 00:21:45,024 reflect the sound perfectly. 351 00:21:45,184 --> 00:21:47,624 So, Joanna, I am on the right spot. 352 00:21:47,784 --> 00:21:50,584 Can you hear me? I can hear you, Nana. 353 00:21:50,744 --> 00:21:54,584 Okay. I can't hear you very well, but it's okay. 354 00:21:57,024 --> 00:22:04,264 # Ave Maria... 355 00:22:04,824 --> 00:22:11,264 # Gratia plena 356 00:22:11,784 --> 00:22:18,744 # Maria, gratia plena 357 00:22:18,904 --> 00:22:25,304 # Maria, gratia plena 358 00:22:26,624 --> 00:22:41,344 # Ave Maria # 359 00:22:45,384 --> 00:22:47,344 Bravo, Nana! 360 00:22:52,544 --> 00:22:54,864 Efharisto poli, efharisto. 361 00:22:55,584 --> 00:23:00,384 It's extraordinary, without any rehearsal or any orchestra. (Sniffs) 362 00:23:00,544 --> 00:23:03,384 CROWD CHANTS AND APPLAUDS 363 00:23:04,944 --> 00:23:07,744 I first saw Nana Mouskouri when I was in my teens, 364 00:23:07,904 --> 00:23:09,864 I suppose, I mean I didn't see her. 365 00:23:11,664 --> 00:23:13,904 And it's just so odd as life goes by 366 00:23:14,064 --> 00:23:17,504 that you... get to meet some of these great gods. 367 00:23:19,944 --> 00:23:23,544 Well, that was something - to be in Epidavros 368 00:23:23,704 --> 00:23:25,664 and hear Nana Mouskouri singing... 369 00:23:27,024 --> 00:23:29,664 for a tiny house on a Monday evening, but... 370 00:23:31,064 --> 00:23:33,024 just sort of in the lap of the gods. 371 00:23:39,064 --> 00:23:41,104 Fabulous. 372 00:23:50,979 --> 00:23:54,979 In the south of the Peloponnese is a remote region called the Mani. 373 00:23:55,859 --> 00:23:58,699 It's an area that was left behind by the modern world. 374 00:24:00,859 --> 00:24:04,419 A huge mountain range had kept the Mani peninsula isolated 375 00:24:04,579 --> 00:24:07,019 and forgotten for thousands of years. 376 00:24:08,579 --> 00:24:10,699 At its southernmost tip there's a place 377 00:24:10,859 --> 00:24:13,099 believed to be the mythical gates of Hades, 378 00:24:13,259 --> 00:24:15,459 where the ancients went when they died. 379 00:24:19,299 --> 00:24:21,219 Some say the people here 380 00:24:21,379 --> 00:24:23,699 are the direct descendants of the Spartans, 381 00:24:23,859 --> 00:24:27,459 the most bloodthirsty warriors of ancient Greece. 382 00:24:36,419 --> 00:24:40,219 My guide, Petros, and I have driven through Arcadia and Sparta 383 00:24:40,379 --> 00:24:42,339 on our way to the extreme south. 384 00:24:43,099 --> 00:24:46,059 He wants to show me this unique frontier land of Greece. 385 00:24:48,739 --> 00:24:52,539 Only the last 40 years, the luxury of a road came to Mani. 386 00:24:52,699 --> 00:24:56,619 It introduced in that place. What did they do before? 387 00:24:56,779 --> 00:24:58,699 They used to use donkeys. 388 00:24:58,859 --> 00:25:01,739 Donkeys. Donkey tracks, just walking? Donkey trails. 389 00:25:01,899 --> 00:25:03,859 It's so wild. 390 00:25:04,699 --> 00:25:07,339 Remote and low-key - this is Mani. 391 00:25:08,539 --> 00:25:10,419 Everywhere just seems to be rocks, 392 00:25:10,579 --> 00:25:12,739 rock hillsides, rocks on the ground. 393 00:25:13,419 --> 00:25:15,539 Everything looks like castles of course 394 00:25:15,699 --> 00:25:18,179 because of these tower houses, everything... 395 00:25:18,339 --> 00:25:21,579 That little village looks like a pile of tiny, grey castles. 396 00:25:22,539 --> 00:25:24,459 We're driving up to Vathia, 397 00:25:24,619 --> 00:25:27,539 a 16th century fortified tower-house settlement. 398 00:25:27,699 --> 00:25:30,339 It's a town with a bloody past. 399 00:25:33,019 --> 00:25:34,979 Hello? Is there anyone there? 400 00:25:35,779 --> 00:25:37,659 Yassas? 401 00:25:37,819 --> 00:25:39,779 Yassas? 402 00:25:44,819 --> 00:25:47,379 There's nobody here. It's very strange. 403 00:25:47,779 --> 00:25:49,659 In the mid 19th century, 404 00:25:49,819 --> 00:25:51,739 300 people lived here. 405 00:25:51,899 --> 00:25:54,579 It was rife with blood feuds and vendettas. 406 00:25:55,419 --> 00:25:57,379 Ooh, a little, little door. 407 00:25:59,259 --> 00:26:01,139 Look at this. It's got a little... 408 00:26:01,299 --> 00:26:03,179 platform with a bed here. 409 00:26:03,339 --> 00:26:05,259 Local men hid in their tower homes 410 00:26:05,419 --> 00:26:07,579 after falling out with their neighbours, 411 00:26:07,739 --> 00:26:09,699 usually over land... or women. 412 00:26:11,099 --> 00:26:13,019 They'd take pot shots from here, 413 00:26:13,179 --> 00:26:15,379 trapped until they'd killed their enemy, 414 00:26:15,539 --> 00:26:17,819 who could be hiding just across the street. 415 00:26:17,979 --> 00:26:20,379 Often the victor would celebrate his success 416 00:26:20,539 --> 00:26:23,699 by nailing his neighbour's severed head to his front door. 417 00:26:24,899 --> 00:26:26,859 There are beds in here! 418 00:26:29,059 --> 00:26:30,699 I feel rather creeped here. 419 00:26:32,859 --> 00:26:35,179 There's nothing here. There's just birds. 420 00:26:36,539 --> 00:26:38,419 WHISPERS: I can see somebody! 421 00:26:38,579 --> 00:26:40,019 Yes. 422 00:26:40,619 --> 00:26:42,579 I can see somebody on a roof. 423 00:26:44,459 --> 00:26:46,779 Shall we go and say 'Yassas'? Yes, yes. 424 00:26:46,939 --> 00:26:48,219 Yassas. 425 00:26:55,659 --> 00:26:57,779 It seems that the few people left in Vathia 426 00:26:57,939 --> 00:26:59,819 still remain wary of strangers. 427 00:26:59,979 --> 00:27:01,939 Which way? This way? 428 00:27:06,299 --> 00:27:08,219 Like other villages in the Mani, 429 00:27:08,379 --> 00:27:12,219 Vathia became a ghost town when the first roads were built in the 1970s. 430 00:27:13,019 --> 00:27:15,099 People in this area emigrated to Athens, 431 00:27:15,259 --> 00:27:18,419 leaving her land and houses empty. 432 00:27:20,259 --> 00:27:22,899 It has a desolate, breathtaking beauty. 433 00:27:26,499 --> 00:27:28,419 Oh, look, here's somebody! 434 00:27:28,579 --> 00:27:30,659 There's a dog and there's a little woman. 435 00:27:30,819 --> 00:27:32,219 Let's go and ask her. 436 00:27:33,699 --> 00:27:35,539 Yassas. Yassas. 437 00:27:35,699 --> 00:27:37,659 (Both speak Greek) 438 00:27:41,419 --> 00:27:43,299 It's a dead end. 439 00:27:43,459 --> 00:27:45,379 And so, no cafe or anything? 440 00:27:45,539 --> 00:27:48,579 Nowhere we can get a cup of coffee or stop or eat something? 441 00:27:48,739 --> 00:27:50,619 (Speaks Greek) 442 00:27:50,779 --> 00:27:54,699 But she's just invited us. We can have coffee at her house. 443 00:27:54,859 --> 00:27:56,819 Oh, that'd be wonderful. 444 00:27:56,979 --> 00:27:58,779 (Speaks Greek) 445 00:28:04,539 --> 00:28:06,379 Tell me, what is it like in the winter here? 446 00:28:14,259 --> 00:28:15,659 It must be very cold, and there's no - 447 00:28:15,819 --> 00:28:17,579 What does she live on? 448 00:28:40,899 --> 00:28:42,819 Very strong. Beautiful. 449 00:28:44,379 --> 00:28:46,339 Aromatic... 450 00:28:48,619 --> 00:28:50,579 How fantastic! 451 00:28:54,659 --> 00:28:58,179 Kyria Antonia lives a solitary life in this abandoned village, 452 00:28:58,339 --> 00:29:01,219 and survives by living off the land. 453 00:29:02,899 --> 00:29:05,219 This is a fabulous pathway, isn't it? 454 00:29:05,379 --> 00:29:08,539 It's a natural stairway, it's just extraordinary. 455 00:29:09,259 --> 00:29:11,499 For supper, she's picking wild asparagus 456 00:29:11,659 --> 00:29:13,579 and has invited me to help her. 457 00:29:13,739 --> 00:29:16,539 Can you imagine that this is the way you get your food, 458 00:29:16,699 --> 00:29:18,979 which is just by hunting on these hillsides? 459 00:29:19,139 --> 00:29:21,099 And finding... 460 00:29:21,779 --> 00:29:25,419 not very much, just kind of leaves and... little plants. 461 00:29:25,579 --> 00:29:28,739 She knows them all, it's just this lovely way of living wild. 462 00:29:28,899 --> 00:29:30,859 But gosh, what slim pickings. 463 00:29:35,179 --> 00:29:38,539 Looking for little strands of... wild asparagus. 464 00:29:39,219 --> 00:29:41,059 I pick? Yeah? 465 00:29:43,099 --> 00:29:45,059 That one? This one. 466 00:29:45,899 --> 00:29:47,859 Wild asparagus. 467 00:29:50,579 --> 00:29:54,179 Well, Kyria Antonia and I have sort of been hunting for a little bit. 468 00:29:54,339 --> 00:29:56,459 She obviously has got a much sharper eye, 469 00:29:56,619 --> 00:29:59,339 because she can see exactly what she's looking for. 470 00:29:59,499 --> 00:30:02,859 I just hope we get enough together so we can have a little supper, 471 00:30:03,019 --> 00:30:04,819 which she's promised to cook me. 472 00:30:04,979 --> 00:30:08,059 It's just the extraordinary kindness of... 473 00:30:08,419 --> 00:30:12,139 people who seem to have so very much less than we do. 474 00:30:12,899 --> 00:30:14,779 Ah, Kyria, thank you! 475 00:30:14,939 --> 00:30:16,899 Look, two more to our collection. 476 00:30:23,779 --> 00:30:25,699 (Speaks Greek) 477 00:30:26,419 --> 00:30:29,139 The wild asparagus is cooked in the simplest possible way. 478 00:30:29,299 --> 00:30:31,739 Boiled for ten minutes in water... 479 00:30:32,699 --> 00:30:34,659 little bit of salt... 480 00:30:35,339 --> 00:30:37,059 some oil... 481 00:30:37,219 --> 00:30:39,259 and then it's almost ready to serve - 482 00:30:39,419 --> 00:30:41,499 except for one last vital ingredient. 483 00:30:44,099 --> 00:30:45,979 Lemons as sweet as oranges, 484 00:30:46,139 --> 00:30:48,499 huge, beautiful lemons. 485 00:30:54,379 --> 00:30:57,019 Eat it almost perhaps a little bit like spaghetti, 486 00:30:57,179 --> 00:30:59,139 just tangling it up. 487 00:31:01,099 --> 00:31:03,659 (Asks a question in Greek) Mmm. 488 00:31:06,739 --> 00:31:08,699 It's absolutely beautiful. 489 00:31:11,579 --> 00:31:13,099 Kyria... 490 00:31:13,259 --> 00:31:16,499 Why do you still stay here when there's nobody here? 491 00:31:25,099 --> 00:31:27,819 Kyria, would you ever like to live in a city? 492 00:31:31,219 --> 00:31:32,939 Did you like it? 493 00:31:37,499 --> 00:31:39,459 Kyria, do you get lonely here? 494 00:31:52,379 --> 00:31:54,739 I should like to be like Kyria Antonia. 495 00:31:54,899 --> 00:31:56,859 I should like to be afraid of nothing. 496 00:31:57,859 --> 00:31:59,899 But I'm going to the Gates of Hades, 497 00:32:00,059 --> 00:32:02,299 where the dead went to be judged. 498 00:32:03,699 --> 00:32:06,859 Even though I'm alive, will I be found wanting? 499 00:32:14,139 --> 00:32:16,819 Three mighty gods - Zeus, Poseidon and Hades - 500 00:32:16,979 --> 00:32:18,899 drew lots to rule the world. 501 00:32:19,059 --> 00:32:21,339 Zeus got the heavens, Poseidon the sea, 502 00:32:21,499 --> 00:32:23,379 and Hades the underworld, 503 00:32:23,539 --> 00:32:25,419 whose entrance is in a cave 504 00:32:25,579 --> 00:32:27,539 and it's only accessible by boat. 505 00:32:28,339 --> 00:32:31,659 It's quite strange to be sitting here in the peaceful sunlight 506 00:32:31,819 --> 00:32:35,499 with the waves lapping at my feet and knowing that in a very short time 507 00:32:35,659 --> 00:32:37,539 I shall be at the gates of hell, 508 00:32:37,699 --> 00:32:39,579 the gates of the underworld. 509 00:32:39,739 --> 00:32:42,379 And... everyone can enter 510 00:32:42,539 --> 00:32:44,819 and no one can leave. 511 00:32:46,019 --> 00:32:47,939 And it's just strange because 512 00:32:48,099 --> 00:32:50,779 I've heard about these things all through my life, 513 00:32:50,939 --> 00:32:53,699 and I thought I would be feeling light-hearted about it, 514 00:32:53,859 --> 00:32:56,739 but actually I feel very, very... full of respect, 515 00:32:56,899 --> 00:32:58,859 a little bit, erm... 516 00:32:59,579 --> 00:33:01,539 It feels quite serious. 517 00:33:07,179 --> 00:33:09,499 A local boatman, Petros Georgariou, 518 00:33:09,659 --> 00:33:11,979 has been to the entrance before. 519 00:33:12,539 --> 00:33:16,699 In these parts, people still believe the gods and legends have meaning. 520 00:33:43,859 --> 00:33:46,379 And this is pre-Christianity, pre-Islam. 521 00:33:46,539 --> 00:33:48,699 This goes back to the beginning of time, 522 00:33:48,859 --> 00:33:50,659 so it's sort of pagan. 523 00:33:50,819 --> 00:33:54,259 So I think the idea of the underworld and hell being below 524 00:33:54,419 --> 00:33:56,339 and heaven being above 525 00:33:56,499 --> 00:33:59,859 is actually apparent in all religions, it seems to me. 526 00:34:06,379 --> 00:34:10,219 This old notion that you would be damned for all eternity 527 00:34:10,379 --> 00:34:14,379 sort of... rather gripped at the heart of me, 528 00:34:16,139 --> 00:34:18,739 so I'm taking every precaution today. 529 00:34:21,019 --> 00:34:22,659 This is extraordinary. 530 00:34:22,819 --> 00:34:24,939 We are here, at the very gates... 531 00:34:25,099 --> 00:34:27,019 of Hades, of Ardes, here, 532 00:34:27,179 --> 00:34:30,059 a sort of unexpectedly modest little cave, 533 00:34:30,219 --> 00:34:33,219 but this was the very end of what was then the known world. 534 00:34:33,379 --> 00:34:36,899 After this, there's nothing but sea until you get to Africa. 535 00:34:37,059 --> 00:34:40,619 So this was the end of continental Europe here, 536 00:34:40,979 --> 00:34:42,859 this extraordinary place. 537 00:34:43,019 --> 00:34:44,939 So there are these flowers which I... 538 00:34:45,099 --> 00:34:47,059 send as an offering. 539 00:34:49,579 --> 00:34:53,979 And also I have brought... as an offering - 540 00:34:54,139 --> 00:34:56,939 it's really to Charon the boatman who will be underground - 541 00:34:57,099 --> 00:34:58,859 I've brought two coins, 542 00:35:00,459 --> 00:35:02,499 and I offer these to the gods. 543 00:35:05,579 --> 00:35:07,619 And one last thing I brought with me... 544 00:35:09,339 --> 00:35:11,979 I wanted to offer something that was of real value, 545 00:35:12,139 --> 00:35:14,219 and so I've brought a pearl, 546 00:35:14,379 --> 00:35:17,659 for the spirits of all the people who've gone into the underworld 547 00:35:17,819 --> 00:35:19,779 and can never come out again. 548 00:35:32,619 --> 00:35:34,539 As we retreat from the gates of hell, 549 00:35:34,699 --> 00:35:37,859 a strong wind whips up, blowing us safely back to shore. 550 00:35:38,739 --> 00:35:43,019 Tomorrow we visit the birthplace of the most spectacular event on earth - 551 00:35:43,579 --> 00:35:45,619 the Olympics. 552 00:35:57,634 --> 00:36:00,754 I've left the barren region of the Mani peninsula behind. 553 00:36:04,354 --> 00:36:08,034 And I'm travelling north to one of the most famous of sporting arenas, 554 00:36:08,194 --> 00:36:10,154 ancient Olympia. 555 00:36:14,794 --> 00:36:17,074 With the Olympics in Britain almost upon us, 556 00:36:17,234 --> 00:36:20,754 I don't need to tell you how important sport is in our society. 557 00:36:21,394 --> 00:36:25,434 It all started in Olympia nearly 3000 years ago. 558 00:36:25,594 --> 00:36:29,154 The ancient Olympic Games were the pinnacle of athletic achievement. 559 00:36:33,594 --> 00:36:35,314 With half a square mile of ruins, 560 00:36:35,474 --> 00:36:37,354 the site was a health sanctuary, 561 00:36:37,514 --> 00:36:39,714 a bit like a modern-day Olympic village. 562 00:36:43,394 --> 00:36:47,474 At its very heart is the place where men were worshipped like gods. 563 00:36:50,754 --> 00:36:52,674 This is the archway 564 00:36:52,834 --> 00:36:55,394 through which all the Olympic athletes passed. 565 00:36:56,194 --> 00:36:58,994 Thick walls, you can almost feel it throbbing off it. 566 00:36:59,154 --> 00:37:01,834 Bunched up, nerves jangling, sweating slightly 567 00:37:01,994 --> 00:37:05,354 with the anticipation of this phenomenal trial ahead of them. 568 00:37:05,514 --> 00:37:07,394 (Gasps) Look, look, look. 569 00:37:07,554 --> 00:37:09,514 This is the stadium. 570 00:37:10,754 --> 00:37:13,474 Look at the size of this place! 571 00:37:23,874 --> 00:37:26,354 This held 45,000 spectators, 572 00:37:26,514 --> 00:37:30,274 and they all sat on grass, except for the judges who sat on seats. 573 00:37:30,434 --> 00:37:33,314 They had running races - they always had the same sort of disciplines. 574 00:37:33,474 --> 00:37:36,634 There was the pentathlon, which was running, 575 00:37:36,794 --> 00:37:39,634 jumping - jumping from the start like that - 576 00:37:39,794 --> 00:37:42,434 it was throwing the javelin, throwing the discus, 577 00:37:42,594 --> 00:37:44,514 and it was wrestling. 578 00:37:45,274 --> 00:37:47,154 What they didn't have in those days 579 00:37:47,314 --> 00:37:49,274 was synchronised swimming... 580 00:37:50,594 --> 00:37:52,474 ping pong... 581 00:37:52,634 --> 00:37:54,594 you know what I mean? 582 00:37:55,394 --> 00:37:57,354 Man's games, held in the nude. 583 00:37:58,194 --> 00:38:00,794 Married women weren't allowed to come and watch them 584 00:38:00,954 --> 00:38:04,474 because it was considered that the athletes were so attractive - 585 00:38:04,634 --> 00:38:07,954 Here come some damn attractive athletes sprinting past now... 586 00:38:09,474 --> 00:38:11,394 The athletes were so attractive, 587 00:38:11,554 --> 00:38:14,154 the women wouldn't be able to contain themselves 588 00:38:14,314 --> 00:38:16,354 and would become unfaithful to their husbands. 589 00:38:16,514 --> 00:38:18,954 So virgins or unmarried girls were allowed in to watch. 590 00:38:19,114 --> 00:38:21,394 Women weren't allowed to do anything. 591 00:38:21,554 --> 00:38:26,314 Vous connaissez des histoires des Jeux Olympiques? 592 00:38:26,474 --> 00:38:28,834 Ben, un peu, parce qu'il y a... 593 00:38:29,434 --> 00:38:31,354 A little bit? Yeah? 594 00:38:31,514 --> 00:38:34,474 I asked if they know about the Olympic Games and the history, 595 00:38:34,634 --> 00:38:36,474 and I think they've come here to learn about it. 596 00:38:36,634 --> 00:38:39,314 The great thing is, the second you arrive here, 597 00:38:39,474 --> 00:38:42,514 all you can think about is testing yourself - you can't help it. 598 00:38:42,674 --> 00:38:45,834 It's like a trigger. You go "The Olympic track, I must run it!" 599 00:38:45,994 --> 00:38:49,354 Even though it's extremely hot - il fait tres, tres chaud aujourd'hui. 600 00:38:49,514 --> 00:38:51,434 But you just have to do it, 601 00:38:51,594 --> 00:38:53,434 just to match yourself up to Olympian standards. 602 00:38:53,594 --> 00:38:55,994 These girlies wouldn't have been allowed to in the old days, 603 00:38:56,154 --> 00:38:57,994 so times have changed. 604 00:38:58,154 --> 00:38:59,154 Merci beaucoup. 605 00:39:09,754 --> 00:39:12,194 Delphi lies to the north of the bay of Corinth. 606 00:39:13,394 --> 00:39:16,394 It was the most sacred place in the ancient world 607 00:39:16,554 --> 00:39:19,074 where emperors, peasants and warriors alike 608 00:39:19,234 --> 00:39:22,034 sought the mystical predictions of the Oracle. 609 00:39:27,954 --> 00:39:30,154 I'm following in the footsteps of Odysseus, 610 00:39:30,314 --> 00:39:32,274 Alexander the Great, 611 00:39:32,434 --> 00:39:34,394 and Apollo himself. 612 00:39:46,674 --> 00:39:48,674 This is Delphi. 613 00:39:54,034 --> 00:39:56,674 And this is where the Oracle... lives. 614 00:39:57,274 --> 00:39:59,994 And there's a huge resonance about this valley. 615 00:40:00,514 --> 00:40:02,634 (Whispers) It's fantastic. 616 00:40:05,034 --> 00:40:08,594 Why did they come here to this particular place, even before it was called Delphi? 617 00:40:08,754 --> 00:40:09,834 Well, this is why... 618 00:40:09,994 --> 00:40:14,354 Zeus... released two eagles at the end of the earth, 619 00:40:14,514 --> 00:40:17,194 and where they met and clashed 620 00:40:17,354 --> 00:40:19,274 was here. 621 00:40:19,434 --> 00:40:22,794 And so this became what Zeus called the navel - the tummy button - 622 00:40:22,954 --> 00:40:24,834 the navel of the world. 623 00:40:24,994 --> 00:40:27,234 The very centre, the very core, 624 00:40:27,394 --> 00:40:30,514 so this was already chosen by Zeus, god of gods, 625 00:40:30,674 --> 00:40:32,434 to be the centre of the world. 626 00:40:32,594 --> 00:40:35,114 We are standing now in the centre of the world. 627 00:40:35,274 --> 00:40:39,034 No wonder people came here, for whatever reason. 628 00:40:41,514 --> 00:40:43,554 And they still do in their thousands. 629 00:40:46,474 --> 00:40:50,034 But some people come for more than souvenirs and photographs. 630 00:40:50,954 --> 00:40:54,874 54-year-old James Head was living in London, working as a maths teacher, 631 00:40:55,034 --> 00:40:57,994 until he came to Delphi for the first time, 12 years ago. 632 00:40:59,034 --> 00:41:00,954 So what happened - you arrived here? 633 00:41:01,114 --> 00:41:03,794 All of a sudden it was a kind of eureka moment for me, 634 00:41:03,954 --> 00:41:06,994 that perhaps there is something sacred, something holy, 635 00:41:07,154 --> 00:41:09,634 somewhere, and in different places, 636 00:41:09,794 --> 00:41:13,514 and it just so happened that the first time I ever had that feeling 637 00:41:13,674 --> 00:41:14,954 was here in Delphi. 638 00:41:15,114 --> 00:41:21,154 For you... this sense of spirituality came alive because of Apollo? 639 00:41:21,314 --> 00:41:23,594 It came alive in this place, 640 00:41:23,754 --> 00:41:27,714 and I suppose this place is firmly associated with Apollo. 641 00:41:27,874 --> 00:41:30,274 It was a life-changing experience for me. 642 00:41:30,434 --> 00:41:32,154 How has it changed your life? 643 00:41:32,314 --> 00:41:35,554 From that first visit, I find myself living here full time. 644 00:41:35,714 --> 00:41:38,634 Obviously I visit the temple regularly, 645 00:41:38,794 --> 00:41:40,594 I say a few prayers. 646 00:41:40,754 --> 00:41:43,674 As in ancient times, I offer a little wine to the god. 647 00:41:43,834 --> 00:41:45,634 A little libation. 648 00:41:45,794 --> 00:41:49,514 Libation or whatever it is. I don't really understand why it is I do it, 649 00:41:49,674 --> 00:41:52,434 I just feel that... that is something I like to do. 650 00:41:52,594 --> 00:41:55,634 And although I... have travelled a little, 651 00:41:55,794 --> 00:41:57,714 and could travel to other places, 652 00:41:57,874 --> 00:42:00,954 I find myself coming back here time and time again. 653 00:42:01,114 --> 00:42:03,674 Because when I'm up there pouring my libation, Joanna, 654 00:42:03,834 --> 00:42:06,314 there's nowhere I'd sooner be. 655 00:42:10,234 --> 00:42:12,594 Now, it was my turn to meet Apollo, 656 00:42:12,754 --> 00:42:15,754 the god of light, prophecy and truth. 657 00:42:16,674 --> 00:42:18,754 It seems extraordinary that 100 years ago 658 00:42:18,914 --> 00:42:21,874 this sacred site in the shadow of Mount Parnassus 659 00:42:22,034 --> 00:42:23,914 was hidden from the world, 660 00:42:24,074 --> 00:42:25,954 covered by 30 feet of earth, 661 00:42:26,114 --> 00:42:28,034 with a village built on top. 662 00:42:28,194 --> 00:42:31,794 When they French excavated it, they were astonished and delighted 663 00:42:31,954 --> 00:42:36,874 to find a ruined city of 3000 statues, monuments and temples. 664 00:42:39,394 --> 00:42:41,834 These steps would have been alive with pilgrims, 665 00:42:41,994 --> 00:42:44,114 plodding up their last, last weary way 666 00:42:44,274 --> 00:42:46,194 at the end of this immense journey 667 00:42:46,354 --> 00:42:49,474 to come... to the centre... of the world. 668 00:42:49,634 --> 00:42:51,554 The place they'd been longing to see. 669 00:42:51,714 --> 00:42:52,954 (Gasps) 670 00:42:53,114 --> 00:42:55,714 The Temple of Apollo. 671 00:43:04,474 --> 00:43:08,554 This is how the Temple of Apollo would have looked in ancient times. 672 00:43:14,594 --> 00:43:17,474 The most important decisions in ancient Greek history 673 00:43:17,634 --> 00:43:19,514 were made by the Oracle, 674 00:43:19,674 --> 00:43:22,234 who sat underground in the centre of the temple. 675 00:43:26,394 --> 00:43:28,434 But scientists today have discovered 676 00:43:28,594 --> 00:43:31,634 that the site was built on the top of an ancient fault line 677 00:43:31,794 --> 00:43:34,274 which emitted hallucinogenic gases. 678 00:43:37,274 --> 00:43:40,594 And look here. I've been told about this. 679 00:43:40,754 --> 00:43:44,954 This is where the Delphic Oracle... had her tripod seat. 680 00:43:45,114 --> 00:43:48,074 The legs of the tripod were there, so her seat... 681 00:43:48,234 --> 00:43:49,634 This was obviously that way round. 682 00:43:49,794 --> 00:43:51,994 The seat was here, and here in front 683 00:43:52,634 --> 00:43:55,674 is the hole through which the methane or ethanol gas... 684 00:43:56,554 --> 00:43:58,474 came hurtling out. 685 00:43:58,634 --> 00:44:01,394 Anyway, some sort of mind-altering gas. And she was sitting on here. 686 00:44:01,554 --> 00:44:03,714 Some people say she was chewing daphne leaves. 687 00:44:03,874 --> 00:44:08,074 Whatever it was, she was in a trance, a complete stewed state. 688 00:44:08,234 --> 00:44:11,514 So what people asked her, she was actually talking in tongues. 689 00:44:11,674 --> 00:44:15,154 I've seen this in the high hills of Hunza in the Karakorums, 690 00:44:15,314 --> 00:44:19,794 where they inhale juniper smoke, so people became high as kites. 691 00:44:19,954 --> 00:44:22,354 And this prophetess, this seer, this oracle, 692 00:44:22,514 --> 00:44:25,634 was high as a kite and couldn't even speak her own language. 693 00:44:25,794 --> 00:44:28,394 She was just... (Mumbles) gibbering, gibbering. 694 00:44:28,554 --> 00:44:30,114 And priests listened and interpreted 695 00:44:30,274 --> 00:44:33,394 and people came and said "Should we go to war? Is this wise?" 696 00:44:33,554 --> 00:44:36,674 "Should I get married?" "Should our countries separate?" 697 00:44:36,834 --> 00:44:39,194 And the Oracle would... (Makes gibbering noise) 698 00:44:39,354 --> 00:44:40,754 and the priests would interpret it. 699 00:44:40,914 --> 00:44:43,514 The priests were terribly important, terribly influential. 700 00:44:43,674 --> 00:44:46,234 But the Oracle was the thing. 701 00:44:46,394 --> 00:44:48,514 She was always a woman over 50, 702 00:44:48,674 --> 00:44:52,114 and she was called Pythia, named after the python, 703 00:44:52,834 --> 00:44:54,754 which was what Apollo slew. 704 00:44:54,914 --> 00:44:58,154 I know this sounds complicated but it's absolutely fascinating 705 00:44:58,314 --> 00:45:00,714 when you can get your head round it, which I almost have. 706 00:45:00,874 --> 00:45:04,674 I'll take a whiff of this and I could probably speak to you in tongues. 707 00:45:04,834 --> 00:45:07,394 (Gibbers) 708 00:45:09,074 --> 00:45:10,954 I could still say Mount Parnassus. 709 00:45:11,114 --> 00:45:13,074 This is my hero. 710 00:45:18,474 --> 00:45:22,274 If the Oracle had spoken to me, she would have said 711 00:45:22,434 --> 00:45:25,634 "I see you travelling in Greece, and in the next episode 712 00:45:25,794 --> 00:45:29,034 "you shall explore the remote northern borderlands." 713 00:45:30,114 --> 00:45:33,394 So, who am I to defy the ancient Oracle of Delphi? 714 00:46:04,274 --> 00:46:04,314 Captions (c) SBS Australia 2018 57261

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