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1
00:00:50,840 --> 00:00:52,970
My mom's never been to Portugal.
2
00:00:53,260 --> 00:00:54,850
We're really excited to have her here.
3
00:00:57,140 --> 00:01:00,270
Sometimes it's tough
to have my mom around,
4
00:01:01,440 --> 00:01:03,190
but since Nicole's come into my life,
5
00:01:03,270 --> 00:01:06,570
it's been a joyful experience
every time I hang out with her
6
00:01:06,650 --> 00:01:10,070
and it's been wonderful.
So, I think it's gonna be great.
7
00:01:18,160 --> 00:01:21,870
2011, and my mom wanted
to come visit us.
8
00:01:22,330 --> 00:01:27,130
And it was a challenging trip,
a very challenging trip.
9
00:01:28,880 --> 00:01:31,550
Why you come over here to Portugal?
10
00:01:31,930 --> 00:01:35,300
To see Garrett surfing
these awesome waves
11
00:01:35,430 --> 00:01:39,770
and look at the country while I have
that opportunity to be with him.
12
00:01:39,850 --> 00:01:41,890
Mostly, it's mostly to be with him.
13
00:01:42,230 --> 00:01:44,270
Please get out of there.
14
00:01:46,440 --> 00:01:49,530
To be honest, it would really,
really scare me
15
00:01:49,610 --> 00:01:52,570
to know that Garrett
was surfing huge waves
16
00:01:52,650 --> 00:01:54,910
because I know they're deadly.
17
00:01:54,990 --> 00:02:00,080
But because I have my faith in God
and Garrett will be on this planet
18
00:02:00,160 --> 00:02:03,960
as long as he needs to be here,
I'm not worried.
19
00:02:05,710 --> 00:02:08,670
My relationship with my mom
is really good,
20
00:02:09,800 --> 00:02:14,590
but she's a very strict,
born-again Christian.
21
00:02:15,260 --> 00:02:17,100
Tell you, the devil is so smart,
22
00:02:17,180 --> 00:02:21,640
he's got everybody believing
he doesn't exist. And that's tricky.
23
00:02:23,100 --> 00:02:29,020
So try not to get
into those conversations with her.
24
00:02:46,290 --> 00:02:48,330
That's what I never did with my kids.
25
00:02:48,630 --> 00:02:51,550
They would bang themselves up,
but I'd just go ohh.
26
00:02:51,710 --> 00:02:54,920
- Shake it off, right?
- That's why there's no fear.
27
00:02:55,180 --> 00:02:57,430
I mean he doesn't have any fear.
28
00:02:57,930 --> 00:03:03,430
I'm grateful for my mother having such
a relaxed way of raising me
29
00:03:03,980 --> 00:03:06,600
and letting me experience life.
30
00:03:09,270 --> 00:03:12,480
She let me experience everything
on my own.
31
00:03:13,690 --> 00:03:16,450
From a very young age,
we were free.
32
00:03:16,820 --> 00:03:21,030
All I remember is fun.
My childhood was fun all the time.
33
00:03:25,000 --> 00:03:29,130
If you ask him about his childhood,
he'll say it was great.
34
00:03:30,000 --> 00:03:34,590
And if you know anything about
his childhood, it's far from great.
35
00:03:35,550 --> 00:03:37,180
It's disturbing.
36
00:03:43,470 --> 00:03:47,440
Check out these monster
100 foot waves off Portugal.
37
00:03:48,100 --> 00:03:52,070
The biggest wave ever surfed
as high as 100 feet.
38
00:03:52,320 --> 00:03:55,610
To put that into perspective, that
is taller than an eight story building.
39
00:03:55,780 --> 00:03:59,110
Surfers are always looking
for the next great thing.
40
00:03:59,200 --> 00:04:03,160
It often breaks those brave
or crazy board riders.
41
00:04:03,240 --> 00:04:06,540
Severe wipeouts
and waves of mind boggling height...
42
00:04:06,620 --> 00:04:09,710
What happens here happens
nowhere else in the world.
43
00:04:09,790 --> 00:04:14,170
The biggest wave ever surfed.
44
00:04:14,250 --> 00:04:16,340
100 foot wave.
45
00:04:16,420 --> 00:04:21,430
100 FOOT WAVE
46
00:04:23,180 --> 00:04:26,310
Chapter III
Mavericks
47
00:04:30,020 --> 00:04:34,650
My childhood was very unstable
and very unconventional.
48
00:04:36,230 --> 00:04:40,410
I've learned to accept my childhood.
49
00:04:42,030 --> 00:04:48,120
I got a really amazing ability
to forget and disregard information
50
00:04:48,200 --> 00:04:49,750
that comes in my brain.
51
00:04:49,830 --> 00:04:52,330
You know, like a computer,
you got the main screen,
52
00:04:52,420 --> 00:04:54,040
you got all the hard drives.
53
00:04:54,500 --> 00:04:56,960
Probably got a lot of hard drives
back there, full of stuff
54
00:04:57,050 --> 00:04:59,970
that I don't even ever access
and don't even remember.
55
00:05:03,220 --> 00:05:06,810
Garrett was born in Massachusetts.
56
00:05:07,930 --> 00:05:12,150
His father was a Latin professor
at a boarding school.
57
00:05:12,230 --> 00:05:17,190
And his mother was like the house
mother for the boarding home.
58
00:05:17,730 --> 00:05:19,690
And they moved to California
59
00:05:19,820 --> 00:05:22,820
because his mother had received
an inheritance.
60
00:05:23,450 --> 00:05:27,990
So she took the money and she bought
this property up in Northern California
61
00:05:28,080 --> 00:05:30,910
and started a commune
with a bunch of people.
62
00:05:31,580 --> 00:05:33,960
Yeah, we had a weird childhood.
63
00:05:34,880 --> 00:05:39,130
My mom was a little out there.
My dad was a little out there.
64
00:05:41,010 --> 00:05:43,800
The commune in California
was a dream.
65
00:05:43,890 --> 00:05:47,430
Bunch of people, bunch of friends.
We grew our own food.
66
00:05:47,510 --> 00:05:52,730
We did everything together,
lived off the land sustainably.
67
00:05:53,520 --> 00:05:56,270
And then Malia was ready
to just leave.
68
00:05:56,360 --> 00:05:58,230
So she told Lawrence, his dad,
69
00:05:58,360 --> 00:06:00,150
and he's like, well,
I don't want to go anywhere.
70
00:06:00,230 --> 00:06:01,690
So he said, I'm staying.
71
00:06:01,780 --> 00:06:06,950
She left Liam with my father
and took me with her.
72
00:06:10,040 --> 00:06:12,960
We drove a Volkswagen van
from San Francisco
73
00:06:13,040 --> 00:06:16,040
all the way to British Honduras.
74
00:06:17,290 --> 00:06:18,880
My mom was a free spirit.
75
00:06:19,300 --> 00:06:22,920
That's where she wanted to live
and wanted to start a life there.
76
00:06:23,470 --> 00:06:24,800
My mom met this guy.
77
00:06:24,880 --> 00:06:28,260
He was really a jealous, insecure man.
78
00:06:29,600 --> 00:06:32,060
He was really violent.
79
00:06:32,560 --> 00:06:37,810
So then Garrett and his mom escaped
like in this rowboat
80
00:06:37,900 --> 00:06:39,400
with crocodiles and stuff.
81
00:06:39,480 --> 00:06:42,490
Through the mangroves
and the jungle.
82
00:06:43,690 --> 00:06:46,410
They go back to Berkeley, get Liam.
83
00:06:46,490 --> 00:06:52,080
And then Malia decides
to join the Christ family.
84
00:06:53,790 --> 00:06:57,330
They say they are the followers
of Jesus Christ Lightning Amen,
85
00:06:57,420 --> 00:07:00,800
reportedly a former San Diego
building contractor.
86
00:07:00,880 --> 00:07:04,510
And while professing non-violence,
a fierce vegetarianism,
87
00:07:04,590 --> 00:07:07,390
celibacy, and a materialism in love,
88
00:07:07,470 --> 00:07:10,180
to talk to them is to invite
scathing criticism.
89
00:07:10,640 --> 00:07:13,560
You come with an open heart, you're
going to receive nothing but love.
90
00:07:13,680 --> 00:07:16,810
You come with your arrogance, you're
gonna get the hell slapped out of you.
91
00:07:16,890 --> 00:07:20,570
They believe their Messiah,
Jesus Christ Lightning Amen,
92
00:07:20,650 --> 00:07:24,610
has come to smash all material things
and all materialists.
93
00:07:25,070 --> 00:07:29,660
My mother was looking for God
and she brought us along for the ride.
94
00:07:30,070 --> 00:07:33,540
She found the Christ family
up there in Mount Shasta
95
00:07:33,620 --> 00:07:37,460
and for some reason she liked what
they were saying and had to offer.
96
00:07:37,710 --> 00:07:42,380
We were traveling up to watch
the Martians fly out
97
00:07:42,460 --> 00:07:44,130
of the top of Mount Shasta.
98
00:07:44,630 --> 00:07:47,550
We got there and they told us
to burn everything.
99
00:07:47,630 --> 00:07:50,340
And she burnt whatever we had,
all of our clothes,
100
00:07:50,430 --> 00:07:52,560
all of our lively possessions.
101
00:07:52,810 --> 00:07:54,220
It was called the Christ family.
102
00:07:54,310 --> 00:07:58,140
So we walked the earth
the same way Jesus walked.
103
00:07:58,640 --> 00:08:02,480
It was a pretty crazy journey
as a 5-6-7 year old kid.
104
00:08:04,230 --> 00:08:06,490
We were always trying to find
Christ Lightning Amen,
105
00:08:06,650 --> 00:08:09,240
who was this elusive cult leader.
106
00:08:09,660 --> 00:08:12,910
We had no transportation,
so we walked barefoot.
107
00:08:13,160 --> 00:08:16,370
And we would walk
and they would chant no sex,
108
00:08:16,450 --> 00:08:18,910
no killing, no materialism.
109
00:08:19,000 --> 00:08:22,040
And the people would always yell:
"Well, where did the kids come from?"
110
00:08:22,130 --> 00:08:24,840
And my mom would always say:
"Well, that was before!"
111
00:08:25,380 --> 00:08:28,550
And the people would laugh
or they would get disgusted.
112
00:08:28,970 --> 00:08:32,050
It was degrading,
definitely degrading.
113
00:08:34,100 --> 00:08:38,390
They walked for six months
to a year. They had no shoes.
114
00:08:38,480 --> 00:08:41,190
They would sleep wherever
they could sleep.
115
00:08:41,770 --> 00:08:44,320
They ate out of trash cans.
116
00:08:44,900 --> 00:08:46,610
That's how we survived.
117
00:08:48,030 --> 00:08:53,160
Yeah, that's the childhood part
that I think messes with me a lot.
118
00:08:56,830 --> 00:08:58,700
You're never really secure.
119
00:09:03,960 --> 00:09:07,460
But as long as I have Nicole,
I feel secure.
120
00:09:11,260 --> 00:09:13,140
Put this set on that ski.
121
00:09:14,090 --> 00:09:15,760
- And that one?
- This ski.
122
00:09:16,430 --> 00:09:20,520
Hello, CJ!
Where are you, man?
123
00:09:21,480 --> 00:09:24,690
I'm back here in Hawaii. You have
a nice new warehouse, huh?
124
00:09:24,770 --> 00:09:26,150
Yeah, perfect!
125
00:09:26,230 --> 00:09:28,230
Come on right over.
126
00:09:28,320 --> 00:09:31,700
I want you on the movie this year,
you know?
127
00:09:31,950 --> 00:09:34,660
I know, me too. So we gotta have
some Skype dates.
128
00:09:34,740 --> 00:09:36,580
You can keep me on for that.
129
00:09:37,330 --> 00:09:42,210
Our idea for the third year project
was Garrett and friends.
130
00:09:42,290 --> 00:09:46,420
Basically, we need to open
the door to everybody.
131
00:09:47,340 --> 00:09:51,010
I kept sharing with all my friends
that we found this amazing wave
132
00:09:51,090 --> 00:09:53,800
and you got to come visit.
You got to come surf with us.
133
00:09:53,880 --> 00:09:55,260
Nobody came.
134
00:09:56,970 --> 00:10:00,060
Sebastian and Tom Butler
were the first two guys to bring
135
00:10:00,180 --> 00:10:02,640
their own ski
and figure everything out.
136
00:10:03,600 --> 00:10:07,190
I was over in Ireland,
towing in with Sebastian Steudtner.
137
00:10:07,270 --> 00:10:09,980
We were promised swell
in Ireland,
138
00:10:10,070 --> 00:10:12,900
but it didn't really live up
to what the forecast had said.
139
00:10:12,990 --> 00:10:16,120
And we'd seen images of Garrett
and Cotty,
140
00:10:16,200 --> 00:10:19,290
like in nice sunshine and huge Nazar�.
141
00:10:19,370 --> 00:10:23,330
No one out. And we just packed
the van, drove down there, check it out.
142
00:10:23,460 --> 00:10:26,250
- First time in Pria De Norte?
- The first time, yeah.
143
00:10:26,330 --> 00:10:28,380
What are you expecting for?
144
00:10:28,460 --> 00:10:30,630
Well, we went and had
a drive yesterday,
145
00:10:30,710 --> 00:10:33,630
me and Sebastian,
and the beach is crazy.
146
00:10:33,720 --> 00:10:35,470
There's waves coming
from everywhere.
147
00:10:35,550 --> 00:10:38,220
And it's like nothing
I've ever experienced before.
148
00:10:38,390 --> 00:10:41,060
I grew up in a town called Newquay.
149
00:10:41,560 --> 00:10:44,310
It is a surf mecca for the UK.
150
00:10:47,770 --> 00:10:51,400
2010 was when I got
into big wave surfing.
151
00:10:51,780 --> 00:10:54,650
I knew Cotty a little bit.
We would always turn up
152
00:10:54,780 --> 00:10:56,570
at the same swells together.
153
00:10:57,030 --> 00:11:00,620
We hung out in Ireland when I started
sort of getting into big waves.
154
00:11:00,700 --> 00:11:03,000
He's been British champion
155
00:11:03,080 --> 00:11:07,170
and a big name in the competition,
on the surfing scene.
156
00:11:09,880 --> 00:11:12,340
I've been running this morning
and I feel kind of ready.
157
00:11:12,420 --> 00:11:15,800
As ready as I can be, I think.
I'm going to focus on the lefts.
158
00:11:15,880 --> 00:11:18,050
I'm a goofy foot, so...
159
00:11:18,470 --> 00:11:20,050
Ride away from that cliff.
160
00:11:20,140 --> 00:11:21,680
Yeah, please.
161
00:11:23,060 --> 00:11:25,770
When we arrived,
there was Garrett, Cotty,
162
00:11:25,850 --> 00:11:28,310
and that crew. And that was it.
163
00:11:30,020 --> 00:11:33,190
Them early days,
there was hardly anyone around.
164
00:11:33,780 --> 00:11:37,490
The lighthouse wasn't open to
the public my first year I got there.
165
00:11:37,820 --> 00:11:41,370
For a long time,
it was just left uninhabited,
166
00:11:41,490 --> 00:11:43,120
nothing going on with it.
167
00:11:43,370 --> 00:11:45,700
The lighthouse belonged to the Navy.
168
00:11:45,790 --> 00:11:48,870
Nobody went there.
It was always closed.
169
00:11:48,960 --> 00:11:53,420
It was a little bit destroyed
and stuff.
170
00:11:54,090 --> 00:11:56,170
When we arrived in 2010,
171
00:11:56,260 --> 00:11:59,300
we're like, we've gotta be able
to get into this lighthouse
172
00:11:59,380 --> 00:12:01,930
so we can shoot from the roof
and we can do safety.
173
00:12:02,850 --> 00:12:05,810
It was tough. But we got the keys.
174
00:12:06,770 --> 00:12:09,390
When we opened that door
and went in there,
175
00:12:09,730 --> 00:12:13,650
it was eight feet high piled
with fishnets.
176
00:12:14,020 --> 00:12:16,740
The whole entire lighthouse.
177
00:12:17,860 --> 00:12:22,030
Went up to the top and then
we looked around and went,
178
00:12:22,120 --> 00:12:24,950
this place is magnificent.
179
00:12:25,580 --> 00:12:30,670
You can feel the energy from hundreds
of years of the waves beating.
180
00:12:31,000 --> 00:12:33,000
I mean, it's just pure magic there.
181
00:12:33,090 --> 00:12:35,210
We've got to get this open.
182
00:12:35,300 --> 00:12:39,090
But our city hall friends, they're like,
no, it's not possible, not possible.
183
00:12:39,970 --> 00:12:41,640
Garrett's like, anything's possible.
184
00:12:41,720 --> 00:12:44,260
You just got to talk
to the right person.
185
00:12:44,430 --> 00:12:46,470
So we went straight to the Navy
186
00:12:46,560 --> 00:12:50,480
and they've worked with us
to open the lighthouse.
187
00:12:51,350 --> 00:12:53,400
When we opened it to the public,
188
00:12:53,770 --> 00:12:58,110
we took all the kids from the school
and just shared the beauty.
189
00:12:59,360 --> 00:13:02,570
It was a really special moment
190
00:13:02,660 --> 00:13:06,700
because these children never imagined
being able to go into the lighthouse.
191
00:13:06,790 --> 00:13:09,290
Maybe you can tell them history
right here.
192
00:13:12,420 --> 00:13:17,210
The people from Nazar� lived and died
without going inside the lighthouse.
193
00:13:18,130 --> 00:13:21,380
They opened it
for the people to come and see.
194
00:13:21,880 --> 00:13:24,890
It felt good to give back
to the people of Nazar�
195
00:13:25,220 --> 00:13:28,100
because they've been really good
to me.
196
00:13:30,520 --> 00:13:34,650
The best experiences of my life
have happened in Nazar�.
197
00:13:40,860 --> 00:13:43,280
And now let's say the big wave
is coming.
198
00:13:43,360 --> 00:13:46,120
That year,
we invited Martin Stepanek.
199
00:13:46,200 --> 00:13:49,370
He's a world record free diver.
200
00:13:49,750 --> 00:13:52,830
He did this whole survival course
with everybody.
201
00:13:52,910 --> 00:13:59,050
And take your peak inhalation
and start your dive.
202
00:14:00,090 --> 00:14:02,010
It was our last full session
where we were going to do
203
00:14:02,090 --> 00:14:04,220
our longest static breath hold
in the pool.
204
00:14:04,300 --> 00:14:08,140
Make sure
every single muscle is relaxed.
205
00:14:08,510 --> 00:14:11,430
I held my breath for three minutes
and 15 seconds.
206
00:14:11,730 --> 00:14:13,520
And breathe.
207
00:14:17,020 --> 00:14:19,650
There's something at the bottom.
208
00:14:23,900 --> 00:14:27,410
In front of all these good friends
of ours and great men,
209
00:14:27,490 --> 00:14:29,120
will you marry me?
210
00:14:34,160 --> 00:14:36,460
It's both of our birthstones.
211
00:14:37,040 --> 00:14:40,960
That afternoon, we had a photo
shoot with Mercedes on the beach.
212
00:14:41,170 --> 00:14:43,970
Later that night, I looked down
and the rings gone.
213
00:14:44,050 --> 00:14:48,050
I mean like he literally gave it to me
five hours ago. I'm like, fuck.
214
00:14:48,140 --> 00:14:50,100
I have the pictures
from the photo shoot.
215
00:14:50,180 --> 00:14:53,560
So I'm looking at like every picture
and I can see like, have the ring,
216
00:14:53,640 --> 00:14:54,680
don't have the ring.
217
00:14:54,770 --> 00:14:57,440
So my dad and I go down there
with like our phone flashlights.
218
00:14:57,520 --> 00:14:59,770
We couldn't find it.
So then I tell Garrett.
219
00:14:59,860 --> 00:15:03,860
He's like, don't even look for it
because Mama Nazar�'s jealous.
220
00:15:03,940 --> 00:15:05,450
And that ring belongs to her.
221
00:15:05,530 --> 00:15:08,030
If you find it,
I'm throwing it back there.
222
00:15:08,120 --> 00:15:10,700
The whole village was
on the beach, looking for this ring.
223
00:15:10,780 --> 00:15:12,410
We had like metal detectors,
everything.
224
00:15:12,490 --> 00:15:15,160
We never found the ring, but the whole
time, Garrett's just sitting there,
225
00:15:15,290 --> 00:15:17,830
like "if you find it,
I'm literally throwing it back".
226
00:15:18,170 --> 00:15:20,250
Just let me know
when you find it, okay?
227
00:15:23,130 --> 00:15:27,180
I grew up like in a very serious
environment.
228
00:15:27,720 --> 00:15:29,720
I am super responsible.
229
00:15:29,800 --> 00:15:33,140
The most irresponsible thing
I've ever done in my entire life
230
00:15:33,470 --> 00:15:35,310
is be with Garrett.
231
00:15:37,310 --> 00:15:41,230
We met in Puerto Rico
at a charity event.
232
00:15:41,440 --> 00:15:45,110
An hour after talking, he was like,
I have to tell you something.
233
00:15:45,190 --> 00:15:46,360
I'm married.
234
00:15:46,440 --> 00:15:49,610
And I said, well, so am I.
235
00:15:50,320 --> 00:15:54,790
I had just gotten married
13 days ago, which isn't cool.
236
00:15:55,200 --> 00:16:01,540
Buit there was nothing
we could do about it.
237
00:16:02,170 --> 00:16:06,670
It was like no one existed to us,
but each other.
238
00:16:06,970 --> 00:16:11,010
We really both truly left our lives.
239
00:16:12,510 --> 00:16:14,760
For the first three years,
240
00:16:15,220 --> 00:16:18,140
we just had our bag of clothes
241
00:16:18,230 --> 00:16:21,230
and we just traveled around the world.
242
00:16:21,480 --> 00:16:25,730
There was just like this energy
of Garrett of anything's possible.
243
00:16:25,820 --> 00:16:27,990
There's no parameters to life.
244
00:16:28,070 --> 00:16:31,870
It was just this beautiful,
just freedom.
245
00:16:37,160 --> 00:16:40,290
Guess what's happening today
at 4:30, boys?
246
00:16:40,750 --> 00:16:42,710
- What's happening?
- I'm getting married.
247
00:16:42,790 --> 00:16:44,250
No way.
248
00:16:44,710 --> 00:16:46,210
At the lighthouse.
249
00:16:46,880 --> 00:16:48,920
This is a busy day for you, Garrett.
250
00:16:49,220 --> 00:16:52,760
His idea was to surf a wave
and like surf into a beach
251
00:16:52,840 --> 00:16:56,060
and then sort of James Bond style,
pull off his wetsuit
252
00:16:56,180 --> 00:16:59,390
and be ready in his suit,
ready for the wedding.
253
00:17:02,940 --> 00:17:06,270
Surfed all day.
It was 20 foot and glassy.
254
00:17:07,780 --> 00:17:11,030
We had an invite to the ceremony,
but the waves were pumping.
255
00:17:11,150 --> 00:17:13,030
So we kind of carried on surfing.
256
00:17:14,740 --> 00:17:17,290
Came in, got ready
and went to the lighthouse,
257
00:17:17,370 --> 00:17:18,910
set everything up perfect.
258
00:17:19,000 --> 00:17:22,000
And then Nicole came down
in this cool little car
259
00:17:23,420 --> 00:17:25,500
and her dad was there to walk her in.
260
00:17:27,170 --> 00:17:30,590
They asked me to conduct
the ceremony.
261
00:17:31,970 --> 00:17:33,430
It was an amazing moment.
262
00:17:40,680 --> 00:17:42,100
The team was all there.
263
00:17:43,230 --> 00:17:46,980
We were all sharing the same
experience. It was kind of magical.
264
00:17:48,230 --> 00:17:53,240
The energy of that team was...
We were a family, for sure.
265
00:18:19,760 --> 00:18:22,350
I think it's going to work
because she's crazy.
266
00:18:24,640 --> 00:18:26,400
I know it's gonna work.
267
00:18:30,440 --> 00:18:34,240
Since Nicole came on the scene,
my brother changed a lot.
268
00:18:34,450 --> 00:18:36,610
He's more connected.
269
00:18:38,070 --> 00:18:40,990
That's how he is now.
That's the new Garrett.
270
00:18:42,370 --> 00:18:44,790
Me and Garrett both love each other
a lot.
271
00:18:44,870 --> 00:18:48,500
And we're very happy
for each other's successes.
272
00:18:49,380 --> 00:18:53,420
But we weren't
the most supportive brothers.
273
00:18:55,180 --> 00:18:58,300
1976, we left the Christ family
274
00:18:58,390 --> 00:19:00,930
and my mom said we're moving
to Hawaii.
275
00:19:01,560 --> 00:19:04,310
Our mom brought us here,
to the north shore of Oahu
276
00:19:04,390 --> 00:19:06,980
and we were in a one bedroom
apartment.
277
00:19:07,270 --> 00:19:10,730
We had carpet, luckily.
That's what we slept on.
278
00:19:12,610 --> 00:19:15,780
We met a kid in the neighborhood.
It was his birthday.
279
00:19:16,400 --> 00:19:20,200
And he asked his mom to go surfing
for his birthday.
280
00:19:20,910 --> 00:19:23,200
His name was Butchy Boy.
Butchy Wong.
281
00:19:23,580 --> 00:19:25,910
And it was right down the road.
282
00:19:27,120 --> 00:19:30,460
Butchy's dad let us take
his knee boards out.
283
00:19:30,790 --> 00:19:34,210
And the first few waves we got,
we weren't going to do it on our knees.
284
00:19:34,300 --> 00:19:36,090
We stood right up.
285
00:19:36,720 --> 00:19:38,220
It was love.
286
00:19:38,760 --> 00:19:40,550
Our first board was a long board
287
00:19:40,640 --> 00:19:43,310
and we cut the middle out of it
and fiberglassed it back together
288
00:19:43,430 --> 00:19:45,270
so we could have a small board.
289
00:19:45,600 --> 00:19:48,770
We were definitely close
when we were young.
290
00:19:49,060 --> 00:19:53,320
In elementary school,
I used to get picked on a lot.
291
00:19:53,400 --> 00:19:56,280
And Garrett actually had to come
and back me up
292
00:19:56,990 --> 00:19:58,450
and fight a few times.
293
00:19:58,780 --> 00:20:01,280
But once Garrett went off
to high school,
294
00:20:01,370 --> 00:20:03,620
he started having new friends.
295
00:20:03,950 --> 00:20:06,750
We were really mean to Liam
when he was young.
296
00:20:07,160 --> 00:20:09,750
He would ditch me and go hang out
297
00:20:09,870 --> 00:20:13,090
and I'd be jealous or pissed because
they didn't invite me
298
00:20:13,170 --> 00:20:14,960
because I was the younger brother.
299
00:20:15,300 --> 00:20:19,590
We got him so mad that he would
just rage to catch us and we'd run.
300
00:20:19,680 --> 00:20:22,260
So he wouldn't catch us.
301
00:20:25,310 --> 00:20:29,730
I made some different friends and
we'd basically live at friends' houses.
302
00:20:29,810 --> 00:20:33,520
I was 15, we were partying
and got arrested.
303
00:20:33,610 --> 00:20:35,860
And I got put in juvenile home.
304
00:20:35,940 --> 00:20:38,820
They called my house
and Garrett answered the phone.
305
00:20:38,900 --> 00:20:42,570
And he was partying at our house
and he just kinda laughed
306
00:20:42,660 --> 00:20:44,910
and hung up the phone
when I was in jail.
307
00:20:44,990 --> 00:20:48,960
As a kid, he didn't do nothing
to help me.
308
00:20:49,370 --> 00:20:54,130
In 1988, I was a finalist in a surfing
competition at Sunset Beach.
309
00:20:54,590 --> 00:20:55,960
And I turned pro.
310
00:20:56,050 --> 00:20:58,090
Back then, if you accept any money,
311
00:20:58,170 --> 00:20:59,970
you're automatically
a professional surfer.
312
00:21:00,050 --> 00:21:04,300
I won 250 at Sunset, 250 at Pipe,
gladly accepted it.
313
00:21:04,760 --> 00:21:07,430
And oh my God, I'm a pro surfer.
314
00:21:08,020 --> 00:21:10,440
We were very competitive
with each other.
315
00:21:10,640 --> 00:21:13,980
We'd be out in the water and me
and Garrett would kind of butt heads
316
00:21:14,060 --> 00:21:15,270
for waves.
317
00:21:15,400 --> 00:21:17,320
I wouldn't go out when he was out.
318
00:21:17,400 --> 00:21:18,730
Just cause he took every wave
319
00:21:18,820 --> 00:21:20,780
and I didn't see any point in being
out there
320
00:21:20,860 --> 00:21:24,490
when the wave was gonna
come to me and he was gonna take it.
321
00:21:24,870 --> 00:21:28,660
For those first five, ten years,
I made a name for myself
322
00:21:28,740 --> 00:21:33,330
and he was kind of in the shadows
for some years there.
323
00:21:36,840 --> 00:21:39,590
I've known Garrett McNamara
since probably the eighties.
324
00:21:39,710 --> 00:21:42,300
I was the editor of Surfing Magazine
back then.
325
00:21:43,430 --> 00:21:45,180
Really, it was his brother who was
326
00:21:45,300 --> 00:21:47,470
the loud mouth, obnoxious,
really good surfer.
327
00:21:49,060 --> 00:21:52,640
Liam was so focused
and so hungry.
328
00:21:53,310 --> 00:21:55,810
He would not back down
to anybody.
329
00:21:56,020 --> 00:21:59,110
The gnarliest, heaviest guy
on the island could be sitting here
330
00:21:59,230 --> 00:22:02,030
and Liam will paddle around him
and take his wave.
331
00:22:02,110 --> 00:22:04,740
Yeah, he wasn't my favorite guy
in the lineup.
332
00:22:07,030 --> 00:22:09,700
You got guys that are aggressive
and they keep paddling.
333
00:22:09,790 --> 00:22:11,290
You're sitting there,
you're waiting.
334
00:22:11,370 --> 00:22:13,250
They get a great wave.
You think I'm next
335
00:22:13,330 --> 00:22:16,540
and then he paddles right behind you
and starts yelling, "I got it".
336
00:22:17,790 --> 00:22:20,840
People kind of looked at me as the
Dennis Rodman or John McEnroe
337
00:22:20,920 --> 00:22:22,510
of the sport of surfing.
338
00:22:23,010 --> 00:22:25,550
He was always coming and yell
at the judges,
339
00:22:25,640 --> 00:22:27,800
trying to break the judges stand.
340
00:22:28,970 --> 00:22:30,930
My reputation got pretty bad.
341
00:22:31,310 --> 00:22:33,390
Liam was very full of himself
342
00:22:33,480 --> 00:22:36,900
and from what I understand,
not a lot of fun to surf with.
343
00:22:37,360 --> 00:22:39,520
But he became very well known.
344
00:22:39,730 --> 00:22:44,820
I did have photos of Liam
on my wall when I was a kid.
345
00:22:45,150 --> 00:22:46,910
Gath helmet, visor down.
346
00:22:46,990 --> 00:22:48,820
Either getting tubed at Pipe
347
00:22:48,950 --> 00:22:53,790
or doing like weird straight airs.
With the full visor down.
348
00:22:54,330 --> 00:22:56,120
Yeah, that was part of his costume.
349
00:22:56,210 --> 00:22:58,540
He suited up and would go into battle.
350
00:22:58,630 --> 00:23:01,500
I was amazed that he could wear
that shield with the tin in it
351
00:23:01,590 --> 00:23:05,170
and still pulling the tube
and come out. But he did it quite well.
352
00:23:05,550 --> 00:23:08,640
He was one of the most photographed
surfers in the world
353
00:23:08,720 --> 00:23:10,100
for about 10 years.
354
00:23:17,440 --> 00:23:20,770
So Liam was the known
McNamara brother.
355
00:23:21,820 --> 00:23:24,860
I won the Pipe Master trials
three years in a row.
356
00:23:25,320 --> 00:23:31,950
It was challenging to see him
do so well and I just got the scraps.
357
00:23:32,830 --> 00:23:34,830
Garrett wasn't that great
of a competitor.
358
00:23:35,250 --> 00:23:37,710
I don't think he enjoyed it
as much as I did.
359
00:23:38,080 --> 00:23:39,500
Nobody really knew of me.
360
00:23:39,580 --> 00:23:42,250
And if they did, it was,
that's Liam's brother.
361
00:23:42,500 --> 00:23:45,460
I think he had a little jealousy
and a little animosity.
362
00:23:46,630 --> 00:23:50,510
Slowly Garrett just started charging
more and a little bit more.
363
00:23:51,010 --> 00:23:53,720
Then we were like, oh my God,
this guy's crazy.
364
00:23:53,850 --> 00:23:56,600
He just quietly surpassed Liam.
365
00:23:57,180 --> 00:23:58,980
You're out there surfing with
your brother.
366
00:23:59,060 --> 00:24:01,060
You see him get barreled.
You want to get a better barrel.
367
00:24:01,150 --> 00:24:04,020
You see him do an off the lip.
You want to do a heavier off the lip.
368
00:24:04,110 --> 00:24:07,400
You see him catch a big wave. You
want to catch an even bigger one.
369
00:24:07,490 --> 00:24:10,740
Just so happens, now my brother's
finally caught bigger ones than I catch.
370
00:24:10,820 --> 00:24:14,540
My brother Liam pretty much focuses
his career on pipeline and Rockies.
371
00:24:14,620 --> 00:24:17,620
Myself, I try to get away
from everybody
372
00:24:17,710 --> 00:24:21,460
and hide out on the outer reefs
and just enjoy giant waves.
373
00:24:22,790 --> 00:24:25,840
Couple of the waves he caught
were life-changing moments.
374
00:24:25,920 --> 00:24:28,800
And he had a few of them all within
a span of 24 months.
375
00:24:29,470 --> 00:24:33,720
Garrett was able to get the cover
of Surfing Magazine twice in a year
376
00:24:33,800 --> 00:24:36,140
and became a worldwide game.
377
00:24:36,220 --> 00:24:38,730
So I brought the name up here
378
00:24:39,190 --> 00:24:43,980
and then as I started to come down,
Garrett brought the name up here.
379
00:24:48,860 --> 00:24:52,990
At one point I was blackballed
by a bunch of the surfing industry.
380
00:24:53,240 --> 00:24:56,120
They wouldn't shoot photos of me,
wouldn't put me in the magazines.
381
00:24:56,200 --> 00:25:02,710
I was causing havoc, but that's
the only thing I knew to do.
382
00:25:03,580 --> 00:25:07,630
And there was a few years there where
Garrett kind of didn't want to be
383
00:25:08,090 --> 00:25:11,550
my brother. He didn't want
to damage his reputation.
384
00:25:13,390 --> 00:25:15,470
Did that bother you at the time?
385
00:25:18,390 --> 00:25:21,270
Yeah, I mean, when your brother
doesn't back you up...
386
00:25:24,730 --> 00:25:28,030
I was in the Pipe Masters one year
and I broke my leash,
387
00:25:28,610 --> 00:25:32,280
lost my board,
and ultimately lost the event.
388
00:25:32,360 --> 00:25:35,030
And I remember specifically
telling my wife,
389
00:25:35,120 --> 00:25:38,700
my brother wasn't there for me.
I wish my brother was there.
390
00:25:39,040 --> 00:25:42,620
We would go a year and maybe talk
two or three times.
391
00:25:44,830 --> 00:25:47,590
It was pretty tough
to be around him sometimes.
392
00:25:48,340 --> 00:25:51,760
They love each other, they're brothers,
but we don't hang out.
393
00:25:52,300 --> 00:25:55,510
We don't have Christmas together.
We don't...
394
00:25:57,180 --> 00:25:58,680
We're not close.
395
00:25:59,680 --> 00:26:03,890
From 40 to 45, I struggled to stay
in shape to stay in the game.
396
00:26:05,850 --> 00:26:07,150
Maybe about five years ago,
397
00:26:07,230 --> 00:26:09,480
I went out and my mind thought
I could do it,
398
00:26:09,610 --> 00:26:12,530
but my body wouldn't allow me
to do it. And I almost died.
399
00:26:12,610 --> 00:26:14,610
So that's kind of when I gave up.
400
00:26:15,490 --> 00:26:21,450
And I decided to put my family first
and realized that I needed to retire.
401
00:26:21,870 --> 00:26:23,370
I don't have any regrets.
402
00:26:23,460 --> 00:26:26,920
In the end. I was able
to make a living as a surfer.
403
00:26:27,000 --> 00:26:30,590
And you look at the numbers
of people who were successful
404
00:26:30,670 --> 00:26:33,720
in surfing careers.
It's very, very rare.
405
00:26:43,680 --> 00:26:45,520
After losing his surf sponsorship,
406
00:26:45,690 --> 00:26:49,650
Cotty decides to return home
to England a month early.
407
00:26:50,860 --> 00:26:53,240
Losing my main sponsor, was tough.
408
00:26:53,320 --> 00:26:55,110
We had like a seven year relationship.
409
00:26:55,200 --> 00:26:59,780
I thought it was like a lifetime,
you know.
410
00:27:00,030 --> 00:27:03,250
It felt like I'd been dumped
by a hot girlfriend.
411
00:27:06,210 --> 00:27:09,380
The way you survive off surfing
412
00:27:10,040 --> 00:27:13,010
is getting sponsors
to pay you a salary.
413
00:27:13,090 --> 00:27:14,550
Hopefully a three-year contract,
414
00:27:14,670 --> 00:27:18,550
usually one year,
but potentially 10 year contracts.
415
00:27:19,800 --> 00:27:22,720
And then every year
you gotta produce something.
416
00:27:22,970 --> 00:27:24,140
Mommy?
417
00:27:24,220 --> 00:27:27,560
Expensive dream, everything.
The jet skis are expensive.
418
00:27:27,640 --> 00:27:30,360
The flights at the last minute
to anywhere are expensive.
419
00:27:30,690 --> 00:27:34,230
If you don't have anyone
to sponsor you or support you,
420
00:27:34,900 --> 00:27:36,570
then who's going to pay for it?
421
00:27:36,650 --> 00:27:38,410
I've got a family and a wife
422
00:27:38,490 --> 00:27:40,370
and it's like,
what should you do, you know?
423
00:27:48,370 --> 00:27:52,460
There's loads of action in the Atlantic,
all looks red.
424
00:27:52,670 --> 00:27:55,510
That means there's
a lot of swell out there.
425
00:27:55,920 --> 00:27:58,180
Someone's already
got to be there, right?
426
00:27:58,880 --> 00:28:00,220
It's frustrating.
427
00:28:00,680 --> 00:28:02,550
It'd be nice if money's not an object
428
00:28:02,640 --> 00:28:05,060
and you can do whatever
you want, whenever you want.
429
00:28:05,140 --> 00:28:07,180
But you can't afford to be
on every swell.
430
00:28:07,270 --> 00:28:09,600
You just need to be
on the right swells.
431
00:28:17,400 --> 00:28:20,570
There's a long interval, so we can
get out. See how you gotta run?
432
00:28:23,080 --> 00:28:26,540
January 2013,
a big swell popped up.
433
00:28:26,910 --> 00:28:28,290
Cotty couldn't be there.
434
00:28:28,660 --> 00:28:31,540
So we decided to bring
Keali'i Mamala,
435
00:28:31,670 --> 00:28:35,460
who was Garrett's tow partner
when I met him.
436
00:28:42,140 --> 00:28:44,050
Look at this!
437
00:28:49,480 --> 00:28:51,270
I wasn't entering the WSL.
438
00:28:51,400 --> 00:28:54,360
So I didn't have to get
the biggest wave or the best wave.
439
00:28:54,440 --> 00:28:56,360
I was just going back to have fun.
440
00:29:09,160 --> 00:29:12,370
If it's already peak, then we've got
to get whatever's there.
441
00:29:12,460 --> 00:29:16,090
If it's still coming, from 9 'til 12
can't be maybe break.
442
00:29:16,500 --> 00:29:20,470
The high tide is gonna be better.
Even to paddle.
443
00:29:42,650 --> 00:29:45,450
We hired a really good
still photographer
444
00:29:45,530 --> 00:29:48,700
and he was working under Jorge Leal.
445
00:29:48,790 --> 00:29:53,040
So Jorge Leal put him up on the school
where you can get the good picture
446
00:29:53,670 --> 00:29:55,750
and he set up his video camera
next to him.
447
00:29:56,250 --> 00:29:59,090
We knew at the time
all the best places.
448
00:29:59,170 --> 00:30:03,180
None come close to that.
Not even close.
449
00:30:10,600 --> 00:30:14,390
You've got a couple of waves
coming on your outside.
450
00:30:15,940 --> 00:30:17,360
They're big, Garrett!
451
00:30:18,650 --> 00:30:21,320
The biggest I've seen
since I've been here.
452
00:30:21,780 --> 00:30:25,110
Good job, Eyes on the Cliff.
Thank you so much.
453
00:30:55,520 --> 00:31:01,440
Did you see that?
Dude, I can't believe this.
454
00:31:03,030 --> 00:31:07,700
I was so proud of that angle
and that wave of Garrett.
455
00:31:08,490 --> 00:31:10,990
The photo was the most beautiful
photo ever.
456
00:31:11,540 --> 00:31:14,450
Surfer wise, it was not worth
even talking about.
457
00:31:14,830 --> 00:31:16,620
The wave didn't really break.
458
00:31:16,710 --> 00:31:21,250
Garrett, being a traditional surfer,
like, "that wave did not break".
459
00:31:21,340 --> 00:31:24,420
"Don't you guys dare put anything
out there. It's not a real wave."
460
00:31:24,510 --> 00:31:27,550
He did not want us to do anything
with that wave,
461
00:31:27,630 --> 00:31:29,140
but pretend it didn't happen.
462
00:31:29,260 --> 00:31:31,510
So I tell them don't do anything
with it.
463
00:31:31,890 --> 00:31:35,230
The photographer sends it
straight to Surfer Europe.
464
00:31:35,600 --> 00:31:37,440
They write this big caption.
465
00:31:37,890 --> 00:31:41,980
"Garrett claims to have surfed
the hundred foot wave."
466
00:31:42,070 --> 00:31:45,650
And I see this
and I'm just like, what the fuck?
467
00:31:45,740 --> 00:31:49,360
Get ready for what seems to be
the biggest wave ever surfed
468
00:31:49,450 --> 00:31:51,030
as high as 100 feet
469
00:31:51,120 --> 00:31:54,240
That tiny dot is Garrett McNamara,
470
00:31:54,330 --> 00:31:57,500
dwarfed by probably
the biggest wave ever surfed.
471
00:31:58,000 --> 00:32:01,630
The media picked it up and they
said it was a hundred feet.
472
00:32:01,750 --> 00:32:05,050
And as Garrett's manager,
473
00:32:05,510 --> 00:32:08,260
if they want to call it a hundred feet,
I'm not going to stop 'em.
474
00:32:08,340 --> 00:32:11,760
A hundred foot wave,
Garrett McNamara. Fear is not...
475
00:32:11,850 --> 00:32:14,350
That wave wasn't a hundred feet.
476
00:32:14,430 --> 00:32:16,680
And the whole world thinks
I rode a hundred foot wave.
477
00:32:16,770 --> 00:32:19,600
Guy's name is Garrett McNamara,
he's 45 years old.
478
00:32:19,690 --> 00:32:21,400
I remember
looking on the news.
479
00:32:21,810 --> 00:32:26,280
I just like blown it.
I should have been there.
480
00:32:27,990 --> 00:32:29,780
I just was pretty gutted.
481
00:32:29,860 --> 00:32:32,820
The photo of you on that wave
is unbelievable.
482
00:32:32,910 --> 00:32:34,700
How did it feel?
What was the ride like?
483
00:32:34,780 --> 00:32:37,410
My feet were popping out
of the straps.
484
00:32:37,750 --> 00:32:41,710
Really, really similar to snowboarding
down a giant mountain.
485
00:32:41,790 --> 00:32:43,670
I was thinking,
"gotta make this".
486
00:32:43,750 --> 00:32:48,260
I didn't realize until the very end
that I was almost on the rocks.
487
00:32:52,760 --> 00:32:55,680
In three years, we build
the North Canyon Project.
488
00:32:56,720 --> 00:32:59,430
Now in the beginning,
it was belonging to a few of us.
489
00:32:59,680 --> 00:33:03,190
With that picture,
it was basically done.
490
00:33:03,770 --> 00:33:07,980
Finally, the people start to understand
the potential of our waves.
491
00:33:08,490 --> 00:33:12,610
Now, Nazar� belongs to the world.
I've done my job.
492
00:33:13,490 --> 00:33:16,910
That was the biggest swell
that we caught here.
493
00:33:18,330 --> 00:33:20,660
And that was like the biggest wave
of the day.
494
00:33:20,750 --> 00:33:25,170
I was with my team in Brazil.
I saw one interview with Garrett,
495
00:33:25,250 --> 00:33:29,760
he told them in that interview Nazar�
is the biggest wave in the world.
496
00:33:29,840 --> 00:33:31,800
Let's go there and see.
497
00:33:37,220 --> 00:33:40,140
At that time Maya Gabeira
was from my team.
498
00:33:40,680 --> 00:33:44,730
And we had Gordo
and Carlos Burle.
499
00:33:45,560 --> 00:33:47,520
It's not a low budget project.
500
00:33:47,610 --> 00:33:50,900
You need jet skis,
you have to spend time there,
501
00:33:50,990 --> 00:33:54,320
especially back in the time
it didn't have much infrastructure.
502
00:33:54,610 --> 00:33:59,450
It felt very exciting to be here
with very few surfers.
503
00:33:59,870 --> 00:34:03,460
It was like a diamond in the world.
504
00:34:03,540 --> 00:34:08,130
I couldn't believe people
weren't all over this place yet.
505
00:34:08,800 --> 00:34:11,050
Nobody had like a base here.
506
00:34:11,130 --> 00:34:13,510
Nobody was really dedicated
to the place.
507
00:34:13,590 --> 00:34:16,470
You know, you had Garrett
with three years of experience
508
00:34:16,550 --> 00:34:19,310
and a lot of respect for the place.
509
00:34:19,390 --> 00:34:24,560
But us coming in, we didn't really
know how to handle the situation.
510
00:34:25,140 --> 00:34:27,480
I was stoked that people came.
511
00:34:28,020 --> 00:34:29,690
But I was really worried.
512
00:34:31,190 --> 00:34:34,400
I surfed with Maya a bunch
all over the world.
513
00:34:34,650 --> 00:34:38,030
She was probably
the hardest charging women around.
514
00:34:38,240 --> 00:34:41,700
And she trained harder than everybody.
So she was ready.
515
00:34:42,950 --> 00:34:47,500
The thing that really worried me was
they didn't come to us for advice.
516
00:34:48,630 --> 00:34:53,380
We were making all the rules
with the city hall and with the Navy.
517
00:34:53,800 --> 00:34:57,140
To go out there, you need
a ski to tow and a safety ski.
518
00:34:57,220 --> 00:34:59,850
And you need communication with
a spotter on the cliff,
519
00:34:59,930 --> 00:35:03,100
but we are not responsible
when they hit the water.
520
00:35:05,690 --> 00:35:10,770
The first time I saw Nazar� really big
was October 28th of 2013.
521
00:35:11,820 --> 00:35:14,610
Saw this one wave,
and I just thought, no.
522
00:35:14,690 --> 00:35:15,900
How could it be?
523
00:35:15,990 --> 00:35:19,570
Like how can a wave be breaking
there, that's the lineup?
524
00:35:20,950 --> 00:35:23,620
I went to Jaws.
I went to Mavericks.
525
00:35:23,950 --> 00:35:27,120
I went to the biggest waves
in the world,
526
00:35:27,710 --> 00:35:30,750
but I never saw nothing like that.
527
00:35:31,500 --> 00:35:35,590
Was like a movie or something,
this terror movie.
528
00:35:36,550 --> 00:35:40,010
We heard a lot about the impact
of the shore break.
529
00:35:40,390 --> 00:35:43,600
We were used to shore breaks
because we come from Brazil.
530
00:35:43,680 --> 00:35:45,770
Brazil, it's a place of shore breaks.
531
00:35:45,850 --> 00:35:48,980
But Nazar� was totally different,
was more powerful.
532
00:35:49,900 --> 00:35:53,610
You have all kinds of directions
coming in
533
00:35:54,110 --> 00:35:57,490
and you have the bank
and you have the cliff.
534
00:35:58,650 --> 00:36:02,950
With those elements, you're never
on the safety zone in Nazar�.
535
00:36:03,370 --> 00:36:05,660
But I knew that was going to be doable.
536
00:36:07,330 --> 00:36:09,620
They had no idea
what they were dealing with.
537
00:36:09,870 --> 00:36:13,800
If they come to me, I would
share everything that I'd learned.
538
00:36:13,880 --> 00:36:18,300
They didn't ask one single question.
Not one.
539
00:36:20,130 --> 00:36:22,350
We just wanted to do it.
540
00:36:23,220 --> 00:36:26,350
Because that's the way
we've been doing it for so long.
541
00:36:26,430 --> 00:36:30,600
You got to go and learn for yourself.
You got to put time in.
542
00:36:32,770 --> 00:36:34,570
As soon as we got out of the harbor,
543
00:36:34,900 --> 00:36:38,570
we went as fast as possible
to the peak and started surfing.
544
00:36:39,400 --> 00:36:41,160
Gordo caught a wave with Carlos.
545
00:36:42,030 --> 00:36:45,030
It was a huge wave
and he did very well.
546
00:36:45,990 --> 00:36:48,120
And then I got back to the lineup
547
00:36:48,580 --> 00:36:52,330
and we met with Maya and Pedro
again and everybody wanted to surf.
548
00:36:52,790 --> 00:36:56,670
I said to Maya: "Go with Carlos.
No problem. And ladies first."
549
00:36:58,380 --> 00:37:01,930
I drove her for one wave
and she didn't let the rope go.
550
00:37:02,340 --> 00:37:05,220
I drove her to another wave
and she didn't let the rope go.
551
00:37:05,510 --> 00:37:07,720
And the third wave, same thing.
552
00:37:07,810 --> 00:37:10,430
And then I look at her and said,
surf, if you want to surf.
553
00:37:10,850 --> 00:37:14,520
A big set came in.
We were driving towards it.
554
00:37:14,610 --> 00:37:17,480
And I said: "Hey Maya, the left,
it's amazing,"
555
00:37:17,570 --> 00:37:20,240
"And it's yours."
And she let the rope go.
556
00:37:29,290 --> 00:37:31,290
I remember kind of falling on my back
557
00:37:31,370 --> 00:37:33,750
and kind of seeing
like the wave covering me.
558
00:37:38,050 --> 00:37:41,050
I popped up and nobody was around
to pick me up.
559
00:37:42,300 --> 00:37:44,890
I was on the lighthouse
doing safety that day.
560
00:37:44,970 --> 00:37:47,140
And it was just, it was a mess.
561
00:37:47,510 --> 00:37:50,180
They didn't have adequate safety at all.
562
00:37:50,270 --> 00:37:53,390
They had nobody on the cliff telling
the driver where to go.
563
00:37:53,520 --> 00:37:55,190
And he went the opposite direction.
564
00:37:55,770 --> 00:37:58,730
I couldn't find her,
so I was going around.
565
00:37:58,820 --> 00:38:01,860
And then I started to listen to people
whistling and screaming.
566
00:38:06,660 --> 00:38:11,620
So I was like in that foam,
then I just took this huge, huge wave
567
00:38:11,700 --> 00:38:12,960
on the head.
568
00:38:13,290 --> 00:38:14,710
I blacked out at the impact
569
00:38:14,790 --> 00:38:17,130
and my lifejacket popped
over my head.
570
00:38:18,880 --> 00:38:21,170
Stayed under for a long, long time.
571
00:38:22,420 --> 00:38:24,760
I regained consciousness underwater.
572
00:38:25,550 --> 00:38:28,600
And when I popped up,
I couldn't really breathe anymore.
573
00:38:28,800 --> 00:38:30,470
And he finally came to me.
574
00:38:31,640 --> 00:38:35,270
He comes to pick her up and pretty
much runs her over with the ski.
575
00:38:36,350 --> 00:38:39,820
The last sense we lose
before dying is hearing.
576
00:38:40,440 --> 00:38:42,860
So I couldn't see,
I wasn't there really anymore,
577
00:38:42,940 --> 00:38:44,900
but I remember
his voice really loudly.
578
00:38:45,200 --> 00:38:48,030
I said: "Just grab the rope
a little bit."
579
00:38:48,120 --> 00:38:50,410
"I'll pull you a little bit closer
to the shore."
580
00:38:51,490 --> 00:38:54,000
My last strength went
into like grabbing that rope.
581
00:38:54,870 --> 00:38:57,830
But he's like dragging her underwater
and then she passes out
582
00:38:57,920 --> 00:39:00,000
and she's just drowning.
583
00:39:02,250 --> 00:39:03,510
Then she vanished.
584
00:39:03,800 --> 00:39:07,050
When she appeared again,
thank God she did,
585
00:39:07,390 --> 00:39:12,060
I jumped from the jet ski toward her
and I grabbed her.
586
00:39:12,930 --> 00:39:15,350
He grabs her. And he brings her
to the beach.
587
00:39:16,350 --> 00:39:19,650
She died down almost here,
and he was reanimating her.
588
00:39:23,980 --> 00:39:28,360
I ran to the beach
and it's the lifeguard and Carlos.
589
00:39:28,450 --> 00:39:31,780
I remember him looking at me
and he's like: "She's dead!"
590
00:39:35,500 --> 00:39:38,080
And then all of a sudden
this huge set comes
591
00:39:38,170 --> 00:39:42,920
and just washes all of us,
including her body up the beach.
592
00:39:43,420 --> 00:39:44,920
Paramedics came at that point.
593
00:39:46,470 --> 00:39:48,590
She started to move her hand
a little bit
594
00:39:48,680 --> 00:39:52,100
and that caught my attention.
And I said, okay, she's moving.
595
00:39:52,600 --> 00:39:54,520
So then they put her
in the ambulance.
596
00:39:55,060 --> 00:39:57,560
Meanwhile, Carlos runs back
to the beach and goes:
597
00:39:57,690 --> 00:39:59,400
"Help me get my ski in!"
598
00:39:59,560 --> 00:40:02,110
I can't get involved with my emotions.
599
00:40:02,190 --> 00:40:04,020
I have to think about my training.
600
00:40:04,110 --> 00:40:07,610
I have to follow my protocol
and I have to deliver my mission.
601
00:40:07,700 --> 00:40:11,370
I got a team, I'm here to surf
the biggest waves of my life
602
00:40:11,450 --> 00:40:13,700
with my team. I'm gonna do that.
603
00:40:13,780 --> 00:40:15,330
So then he gets his jet ski,
604
00:40:15,410 --> 00:40:18,120
runs it back to the harbor
and goes back out.
605
00:40:18,500 --> 00:40:21,580
And he does get one of the waves
of the day.
606
00:40:24,800 --> 00:40:29,800
Was my biggest day I had ever had
a chance to surf at Nazar�.
607
00:40:29,880 --> 00:40:35,720
So it was successful,
but still we had something
608
00:40:35,810 --> 00:40:37,980
that wasn't in our plans.
609
00:40:38,520 --> 00:40:41,190
But that happens
when you are surfing big waves.
610
00:40:43,310 --> 00:40:47,480
It was truly a horrible situation.
611
00:40:49,150 --> 00:40:53,120
I saw her unconscious and...
612
00:40:54,660 --> 00:40:57,290
She's a person I care for a lot,
that I admire.
613
00:40:57,370 --> 00:40:59,750
And I have a responsibility
for her as well.
614
00:41:01,080 --> 00:41:04,130
I thought about her family,
about our surfs together.
615
00:41:04,540 --> 00:41:06,710
These are very dangerous waters,
aren't they?
616
00:41:06,840 --> 00:41:09,510
So why do surfers take
these deadly risks?
617
00:41:09,590 --> 00:41:12,470
Well, as a big wave rider,
our objective is to be safe.
618
00:41:12,550 --> 00:41:15,430
If you get hit by the wave,
after you've been riding it,
619
00:41:15,510 --> 00:41:16,600
we call that wiping out.
620
00:41:16,680 --> 00:41:20,060
That's a failed attempt on the school
that I went to.
621
00:41:20,430 --> 00:41:23,980
And Maya, she doesn't have the skill
to be in these conditions.
622
00:41:24,060 --> 00:41:26,770
And I feel like it's Carlos's
responsibility to take care of her,
623
00:41:26,860 --> 00:41:28,860
and he's just lucky
that she didn't drown.
624
00:41:28,940 --> 00:41:33,320
I mean, he did take care of it.
He saved her and she did survive.
625
00:41:33,410 --> 00:41:35,320
I was very hurt at the time.
626
00:41:35,410 --> 00:41:39,240
I'm an athlete.
I get seriously injured doing my job.
627
00:41:39,330 --> 00:41:44,710
And the first thing that comes out
of one of our icon's mouth is
628
00:41:45,580 --> 00:41:46,630
"you shouldn't be out there".
629
00:41:46,710 --> 00:41:50,460
As a human on intensive care,
I expected to hear,
630
00:41:50,960 --> 00:41:53,380
I wish her the best,
speedy recovery.
631
00:41:53,880 --> 00:41:57,350
But I think emotions
were flying high.
632
00:41:57,720 --> 00:42:00,350
You hate to offend anybody.
633
00:42:00,930 --> 00:42:04,520
But when you see the footage of these
wrecks and you hear these injuries,
634
00:42:05,690 --> 00:42:07,190
that's a warning sign.
635
00:42:07,270 --> 00:42:11,240
You better be prepared and know
what you're getting yourself into
636
00:42:11,320 --> 00:42:13,320
when you go into these conditions.
637
00:42:13,700 --> 00:42:16,620
Somebody literally almost died.
Like she was dead.
638
00:42:16,700 --> 00:42:18,240
They brought her back to life.
639
00:42:18,330 --> 00:42:21,450
At that point, you think it's like,
why are you doing this?
640
00:42:22,120 --> 00:42:25,420
I remember thinking how selfish
they are.
641
00:42:25,500 --> 00:42:29,340
If you want to do this, that's fine.
But you shouldn't have a wife and kids.
642
00:42:30,170 --> 00:42:32,510
But I didn't expect anything less
to happen.
643
00:42:33,050 --> 00:42:34,550
I'm glad you were prepared for it.
644
00:42:34,630 --> 00:42:36,470
- I'm prepared for it.
- Cause nobody else was.
645
00:42:36,550 --> 00:42:41,010
They're going in the wrong spot
and pushing the limit.
646
00:42:43,350 --> 00:42:48,060
It was the third year and that was
the worst accident we had seen.
647
00:42:48,770 --> 00:42:51,690
Maya is stable
and won't need greater care,
648
00:42:51,820 --> 00:42:55,650
but will stay under observation at the
Hospital of Santo Andr�, in Leiria.
649
00:42:55,780 --> 00:42:59,870
The Brazilian surfer was among other
athletes who attempted to break
650
00:42:59,990 --> 00:43:01,370
the record set by McNamara,
651
00:43:01,450 --> 00:43:04,870
who surfed the biggest wave
in the world at Praia do Norte.
652
00:43:07,830 --> 00:43:09,750
I did kind of feel responsible
653
00:43:09,840 --> 00:43:13,170
because I was the one who pretty
much brought everybody to Nazar�.
654
00:43:13,260 --> 00:43:15,260
Big wave surfing's dangerous.
655
00:43:15,340 --> 00:43:20,550
And this wave here is more
challenging than any wave in the world.
656
00:43:22,810 --> 00:43:28,190
That place can tell you
that you're not prepared.
657
00:43:28,770 --> 00:43:35,650
So I think every team start to
understand that and copy our system.
658
00:43:48,620 --> 00:43:52,750
A swell was booming down
to Portugal with no wind.
659
00:43:53,130 --> 00:43:57,720
No wind for the whole day,
which is what I've been waiting for.
660
00:43:58,010 --> 00:44:00,640
I literally just booked the flight
661
00:44:01,890 --> 00:44:07,310
and we'll be in the sea
like before it gets light.
662
00:44:10,480 --> 00:44:14,320
I was on the brink of reapplying
for full-time jobs,
663
00:44:14,690 --> 00:44:18,990
going down that road. And luckily,
Katie, we talked about it.
664
00:44:19,070 --> 00:44:21,660
She sort of said, go with
your heart and your passion
665
00:44:21,740 --> 00:44:23,870
and things work out.
666
00:44:25,790 --> 00:44:28,160
But it was a huge gamble.
667
00:44:44,300 --> 00:44:49,310
With the anticipation,
I just wanna get out there.
668
00:45:34,600 --> 00:45:37,070
As a surfer, the session wasn't great.
669
00:45:37,150 --> 00:45:39,940
But the video footage,
it just looks nuts.
670
00:45:40,360 --> 00:45:42,320
People were tagging it
like "biggest wave ever".
671
00:45:42,400 --> 00:45:45,370
When we're trying to fly home,
Tuesday morning,
672
00:45:45,450 --> 00:45:48,240
I woke up
and it was just like carnage.
673
00:45:48,330 --> 00:45:52,040
And our Instant Index tonight begins
with a man who is a plumber,
674
00:45:52,120 --> 00:45:54,540
but riding into history.
Look at this.
675
00:45:54,620 --> 00:45:57,790
We go live via Skype
to Braunton in Devon.
676
00:45:57,880 --> 00:46:01,130
There he is,
he is Andrew Cotton and son.
677
00:46:01,720 --> 00:46:04,550
The media ran with it,
which was great for his career.
678
00:46:04,630 --> 00:46:06,970
He was able to quit plumbing.
679
00:46:07,050 --> 00:46:10,430
The wave got entered into the biggest
wave category
680
00:46:10,520 --> 00:46:12,680
at the Billabong XXL awards.
681
00:46:13,390 --> 00:46:15,940
The XXL Awards is important
for a surfer.
682
00:46:16,980 --> 00:46:21,860
I was super happy for him.
I couldn't wait to see him win.
683
00:46:22,320 --> 00:46:25,660
The winner of the 2014 Double XL
Biggest Wave award
684
00:46:25,740 --> 00:46:28,870
is Gautier Garanx photo
by Eric Bellande.
685
00:46:28,990 --> 00:46:31,370
The wave was 62 feet.
686
00:46:32,450 --> 00:46:34,620
I kind of had an inkling
that I wouldn't win.
687
00:46:34,750 --> 00:46:36,330
I always had doubt.
688
00:46:36,790 --> 00:46:41,210
This story would have been
too perfect, you know.
689
00:46:42,090 --> 00:46:43,970
He didn't win. It was a bummer.
690
00:47:01,520 --> 00:47:03,690
When we got back in 2015,
691
00:47:04,240 --> 00:47:06,990
we really wanted to create
something on our own.
692
00:47:07,820 --> 00:47:10,240
So we created the Red Chargers.
693
00:47:10,740 --> 00:47:14,120
It's about the surfers that look
for the red blobs on the map
694
00:47:14,540 --> 00:47:15,830
and go charge.
695
00:47:16,210 --> 00:47:19,460
The whole goal of the Red Chargers
696
00:47:19,580 --> 00:47:24,170
is to put a face to these people
on the waves,
697
00:47:24,710 --> 00:47:28,890
which is different than what most
of the big wave sites do.
698
00:47:29,010 --> 00:47:31,640
You know,
the focus is just the wave
699
00:47:31,810 --> 00:47:34,020
and you don't even know
what the person looks like.
700
00:47:34,100 --> 00:47:39,270
And all of these guys and women
have an incredible story.
701
00:47:39,350 --> 00:47:42,770
They've had to overcome a lot
to follow their dreams.
702
00:47:42,940 --> 00:47:48,700
Our goal is for all of you to know
them as people, not just as...
703
00:47:48,990 --> 00:47:50,740
A little dot.
704
00:47:55,620 --> 00:47:58,210
It wasn't a contest,
it was a free surf.
705
00:47:59,460 --> 00:48:04,300
And it was really to showcase
the underdogs.
706
00:48:06,050 --> 00:48:08,010
We filmed all winter.
707
00:48:10,680 --> 00:48:14,310
Try and mark where he is right now.
That's the spot.
708
00:48:14,680 --> 00:48:18,100
Right there, that's the wave.
Pretty big one, Cotty.
709
00:48:19,850 --> 00:48:25,480
The idea was to have a little video
about each surfer,
710
00:48:27,280 --> 00:48:29,530
really tell their stories.
711
00:48:38,460 --> 00:48:39,830
How'd it go out there?
712
00:48:43,460 --> 00:48:45,090
It was fun, yeah.
713
00:48:48,090 --> 00:48:52,050
That's what surfing's about, isn't it?
It was super fun.
714
00:48:58,270 --> 00:49:01,230
At that time,
Garrett was training hard
715
00:49:01,310 --> 00:49:04,610
and just surfing
more than he'd ever surfed.
716
00:49:05,440 --> 00:49:08,780
He was on fire.
He got a lot of good waves.
717
00:49:12,070 --> 00:49:16,660
I was at the peak of my career,
physically, mentally.
718
00:49:17,200 --> 00:49:21,540
With all my partners,
sponsors, friends,
719
00:49:22,040 --> 00:49:25,920
we had everything going so well.
720
00:49:28,420 --> 00:49:30,220
Is that your dada?
721
00:49:30,720 --> 00:49:32,680
Sick barrel, dad.
722
00:49:33,930 --> 00:49:39,100
And I realized for years, I had put
all my energy into Portugal.
723
00:49:39,390 --> 00:49:42,270
And then, once I accomplished
724
00:49:42,350 --> 00:49:44,190
everything I wanted
to accomplish there...
725
00:49:44,310 --> 00:49:46,270
Where's your style?
726
00:49:47,150 --> 00:49:48,980
Where's your style?
727
00:49:49,730 --> 00:49:52,400
I was so ready to surf
the world again.
728
00:50:08,670 --> 00:50:13,170
This thing is so beautiful.
This is the one I'm gonna ride at Mavs.
729
00:50:14,260 --> 00:50:18,930
There was a world tour
of big wave surfing at that time.
730
00:50:19,010 --> 00:50:22,850
Best big wave spots, and there was
going to be a contest at each spot.
731
00:50:22,930 --> 00:50:26,900
How they determine who's invited
is what is up for discussion.
732
00:50:27,440 --> 00:50:30,610
Garrett was not on the list
for the Mavericks contest.
733
00:50:30,940 --> 00:50:32,400
He calls the director.
734
00:50:32,530 --> 00:50:34,700
He's like,
"Hey, I want to be in the contest".
735
00:50:34,780 --> 00:50:38,660
"I've been at Mavericks many times.
I've put my time in there."
736
00:50:38,740 --> 00:50:43,750
He said, "You gotta be at every swell if
you want to be invited to this contest".
737
00:50:44,160 --> 00:50:46,040
He was just on a mission
738
00:50:46,460 --> 00:50:49,710
to be at every swell at Mavericks
and prove himself.
739
00:50:50,210 --> 00:50:51,710
And this swell popped up.
740
00:50:52,010 --> 00:50:54,170
He was just gonna go
for the day.
741
00:50:54,470 --> 00:50:57,800
After being in Nazar� five years,
Mavericks was a cakewalk.
742
00:50:57,890 --> 00:51:00,970
I was in a really good place.
I felt super confident.
743
00:51:02,770 --> 00:51:04,390
The forecast was a little sketchy.
744
00:51:04,480 --> 00:51:06,480
Like there was going to be wind,
no wind.
745
00:51:06,770 --> 00:51:09,980
So I was one of the only guys
that went, so I was so happy.
746
00:51:12,480 --> 00:51:15,530
- Ready, Marco?
- Yeah! Let's go.
747
00:51:17,610 --> 00:51:21,330
I paddled out past everybody
and sat there.
748
00:51:22,740 --> 00:51:25,710
And boom, set came right to me.
749
00:51:26,330 --> 00:51:29,290
I turn around,
I take a couple casual strokes.
750
00:51:32,840 --> 00:51:33,880
Stood up.
751
00:51:35,720 --> 00:51:38,840
And then everything
just kind of went wrong.
752
00:51:38,930 --> 00:51:41,600
Oh my God!
64067
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