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At 14 years old, I was like most kids
growing up in southern California.

My world was simply friends,
family...

... school, and lots of surfing.

But, unexpectedly,
my parents had recently divorced...

... and my world was falling apart.

I just wanted to know
that there was a reason for my life.

Later that year,
a professional surfer I looked up to...

... took me and a friend
on our first surf trip to Hawaii.

We had the best time
surfing perfect waves in warm water.

But at that time in my life,
I needed more than just surfing.

I needed some answers.

It was on that trip
when my hero became my friend...

... and helped me make sense
of all I was going through.

And for the first time in my life,
I realized I had a purpose.

It's been years since then, and even
after a professional surfing career...

... I still think back to that first trip
I was taken on.

I never understood
why he did that for us...

... but always knew that someday
I wanted to do the same...

... for two other kids.

And that day has now come.

Living in California, where there are
hundreds of talented surfers...

... you'd think it would be easy
to find two kids...

... for a trip around the world.

But that was the problem.

Out of all these kids,
which two do I pick?

Going to the National Amateur
Surfing Championships...

... only made the process harder...

... and I left more confused
than before.

One day, I was visiting my friend
John Carper...

... who is a well-known
surfboard shaper.

He introduced me
to 14-year-old Tyler Hallen...

... and I immediately knew he was
one of the kids I was looking for.

My name is Tyler James Hallen,
and I'm 14 years old.

I guess I'm just
an average teenager.

See, he's always been an innocent...
Just really nice kid, you know.

A go-getter
when it comes to school...

...and how he surfs.

Tyler's been through a lot in his life,
with the reality of divorce...

...and families being separated.

His half-sister has got cancer.
You know, dealing with that.

I don't know how I would have taken it,
being a kid...

...the stuff that he's gone through,
but it's just amazing how he is.

The following week, I headed up
to San Clemente for a morning surf.

As I paddled out,
I saw this tiny kid...

... surfing like
a miniature professional.

I paddled over
and asked what his name was.

He very politely replied,
"Luke Davis."

I was born in 1993
and I'm 12 right now.

I'm in seventh grade.

I got him on a surf board
when he was 5 years old...

...and he just took to it
very quickly...

...and just absolutely loved it, so...

He's pretty much consumed with it.

Luke's one of four boys.
He's our second oldest...

...and he's
a very competitive brother.

Our boys are competitive.

They all wanna win,
wanna be the best.

And Luke's one of them.

Luke is home-schooled,
and his mom is his teacher.

So he can surf when waves are good
and study when the waves are bad.

I just think,
"What's the deal with this kid?

Why can't I surf whenever I want?"

It didn't take long
to convince Luke and Tyler...

... to come with me
on this adventure around the world.

Their parents, on the other hand,
slowly warmed up to the idea...

... when I explained to them
this was more than a surf trip.

It was an opportunity
to see other people and cultures...

... and learn firsthand
what can only be taught...

... outside their classroom.

Bryan kind of told me...

...he's gonna take Tyler
around the world.

My first reaction...
I'm pretty adventurous.

I just go, "Yeah, sure," you know.

But Tyler being a 14-year-old kid,
I was really concerned.

I couldn't believe he wanted to take
my child around the world.

I didn't even know this man.

Bryan and I got to know each other,
I felt comfortable with him.

So for me, I thought
this is a great opportunity for Luke.

Tyler's friends and us,
we were just like:

"No way this kid
is going around the world.

He grew up with us,
and now some guy's coming...

...to let him go around the world?
Yeah, right."

Luke reads surfer magazines
and wants to go to all these places.

We were reluctant to let him go
anywhere because he's so young.

This guy is a perfect guy
for Luke to go with.

I didn't think it was real.
I was like, "You're kidding."

This is what I've always wanted
to do...

...to go all across the world and surf.
You couldn't ask for anything better.

Our main concern for Luke
in the coming years...

...pursuing this career
in professional surfing...

...we're worried about
what that all brings.

The fame, the fortune, the influences
that are outside of our family...

...that we really have
no control over.

We know that Luke wants to become
a professional surfer one day.

And his goal and his life dream
since he was a little, little boy...

...is to be on the world tour, the CT.

And we want him to fulfill his dream.

I went over it with Tyler's mom one
more time and we thought about it.

At that time,
we decided to give Bryan permission...

...to take my son on this trip.

Going on a trip like this,
you need an open mind.

Anything can happen.

It's gonna be a fun adventure.

When I heard
Luke was going around the world...

...I was happy
but mad at the same time.

I'm his little bro.
And I really wanted to go!

Being with Bryan will give Luke
a foundation...

...and an opportunity
to be mentored...

...and be taught the things
that can be out there.

The pitfalls and the things to look for,
to watch out for, to stay clear of.

I'm not going expecting anything.
I'm just gonna hold on.

Whatever comes, comes,
whatever hits us hits us.

Whatever good things come,
whatever bad things come. I can't wait.

What better place
to begin our journey...

... than the North Shore of Hawaii?

Being in the water
with Luke and Tyler...

... I felt like I was on my trip
when I was their age.

Each day consisted of surfing
as many hours as possible...

... or until our arms couldn't move.

I just couldn't believe
how good these kids were surfing.

Tyler couldn't believe
that this was happening...

... and that somehow I got him
out of the classroom...

... for the next few months.

He kept asking me, "Where were you
during finals last year, Bryan?"

Before long, it felt like they were
becoming my little brothers.

After the first few days,
I thought to myself:

"What did I get myself into?"

I couldn't believe that two kids
have this much energy.

They were last to go to bed
and the first ones up...

... dragging me out the door
each morning to go look for waves.

Hawaii is different from home
because it's warm water...

...bigger waves, and more powerful.
At home, it's just mushy and cold.

In California, the wave is moving.
Here, the whole ocean is moving.

Being in Hawaii's perfect conditions,
it's hard to ever get out of the water.

However, the North Shore
is one of the few places...

... where the view from the beach
is just as exciting as being out there.

Hawaii is home to some
of the best surfers in the world.

I wanted Luke and Tyler
to meet Garrett McNamara...

... who, along with some of his friends,
is at the forefront of big-wave riding.

We started tow surfing to catch waves
that are not humanly possible to catch.

It turned into this great sport
that I'm proud to be a part of.

You're sitting out there waiting
and here comes a set.

You grab the rope
and your heart starts pounding.

And the Jet Ski kicks out
and you let go.

As you come down,
you hear bombs just exploding.

Section, section, section.

Then you start to go
and the bombs start dropping on you:

Spits, and you come out
and you're like:

"This is awesome."

These guys are in
a league of their own.

In most sports, getting injured is a risk
athletes are willing to take.

But for Garrett and his friends,
every time they go out...

... it's a matter of life and death.

It was an honor
for Luke and Tyler...

... to meet two of my favorite people
in surfing:

Three-time world champion
Tom Curren...

... and his lifetime surfboard shaper,
Al Merrick.

They share a unique friendship
that's lasted over three decades...

... and is still strong today.

I grew up in Santa Barbara...

...and there wasn't a lot
of surfers my age at the time.

Al is obviously somebody
who influenced me a lot.

I would consider him
a kind of mentor for me at that age.

Because he was there
in Santa Barbara...

...we surfed together when
he was young just almost every day.

Even if the waves were bad,
he would take me surfing.

I'd get to try a new board.

We'd listen to music in the car.

We grew to just really love each other,
where you can sit with a person...

...and not have to say anything
and still just enjoy being with them.

Kids who have people
that invest their time...

...in just being around.

Somebody like Al, you know, he's not
giving to get something in return.

And I think that's basically
what mentorship is.

It's as simple as just going down
and letting them see you're there.

It may be as little as that.

And a child or a kid or a young adult,
whoever, may see it.

It may make
the biggest impression.

What's the state of our youth?

The youth is actually looking
for something real.

It's good that Bryan is mentoring
those kids...

...because it's like planting a seed
that will grow over the years.

I wasn't sure what adventures
lay ahead for us.

But after seeing how
they handled themselves...

... I knew Luke and Tyler were ready to
make their first trip outside the country.

We had made memories
that would last a lifetime...

... and my hope was
that throughout the journey...

... they would receive
what someone once gave to me.

I've never left the country before.

This is my first time
leaving the U. S...

...like, going somewhere
really far away, though.

Peru is in South America,
I'm pretty sure...

...and it is known for long, long, long,
perfect left point breaks.

I have never been to a place
like this before in my life.

When I heard Matt Beacham
was coming on our Peru trip...

...I was really excited because
he's a person I look up to.

He's my favorite surfer.
I was like, "Gosh, Matt Beacham."

He's one of my heroes.

Matt, he just seemed
like a really funny guy...

...and a really good surfer.

And I was just stoked
to be able to go on a trip with him.

Driving from Lima to the Pacific coast
of Peru, Luke and Tyler told me...

... how different it was
from any place they had ever been.

There is no substitute
for a real-life...

... firsthand experience
in another culture...

... and they were doing their best
to blend in.

Translation?

In Peru, here they speak Spanish.

I speak some Spanish.

Now that I've been here,
I realize I wanna learn it more...

...so I can fluidly talk to everyone.

Though they speak a different
language, they're the same.

It's just like, they probably think
we're talking really, really weird.

Good?

A good friend of mine, John Chuman,
has been inviting me for years...

... to come down
to his home country of Peru.

Like most of my friends
from other countries...

... he claimed the waves
were really good all the time.

So I finally took him up on his offer.

It was really nice to see Bryan
in my country.

And Matt and the kids...

...they were asking about,
"How are the waves?"

"They're left or rights?
How are they?"

So we were...
You know, since we met each other...

When the kids have met,
we were like friends immediately.

We showed up and he was willing
to take two weeks off of work...

... to show us around his country.

John has a huge heart for people...

... especially the next generation
of Peru's up-and-coming surfers...

... two of which are 11-year-old
Carlos Mario Zapata...

... and 14-year-old
Christobal DeCol.

I know Carlos Mario for, like,
all my life.

He's my friend. He's my best friend.

These kids eat, live
and breathe surfing...

... and like Luke and Tyler, have
similar dreams of going pro someday.

When I grow up, I want...

I want to be world champion
of surfing.

It's good for us to see these grommets
growing in a very healthy way.

What I see in Carlo Mario
and Christobal...

...and the rest of the groms with them
is that they're the future of surfing.

And all the values that they will learn
right now that they are very young...

...are gonna be the values they're
gonna share in the future as surfers.

John was happy to take the kids
surfing at local breaks around Lima...

... but said if we wanted to find
better waves...

... we'd have to travel to the north.

What we didn't know
was that it was an 18-hour bus ride.

The drive north,
when you're traveling by bus...

...they have these huge windows,
you get to check out all the scenery.

That bus ride was so sketchy
because we were driving over cliffs...

...with 300-foot drops...

...and I had to go to the bathroom,
so that made it twice as bad.

It was the longest bus ride ever.

We arrived in Mancora
and after our first look at the waves...

... Luke and Tyler knew
that their patience had paid off...

... and it was worth every minute
of the long journey up the coast.

I never thought I'd be on a surf trip
with four ripping little kids.

To see how...
They're always happy in the water...

...always giving each other waves,
sharing waves, hooting each other.

They'll hoot you if you're hitting it.

They're just amped.
It's a cool, awesome experience.

I think Bryan and I are having
a great time with it.

When John travels
to northern Peru...

... he brings clothes and resources
to a less fortunate community.

I thought this would be a good
opportunity for Luke and Tyler...

... to learn that it is better to give
than to receive.

We went to this local church...

...and a whole bunch of the kids
from the town were there.

Everybody's so nice.
They just welcome you...

...and we sang songs
and had a great time.

We have no right to complain.

They're stoked
with none of the stuff we have.

They don't have that much, but they
make the most of what they have.

We get, like, really nice clothes
and stuff all the time.

Maybe somebody's bummed that they
didn't get some T-shirt they wanted.

They don't really have a choice.

They just pretty much get clothes
wherever they can find them.

And the fact that we brought
a whole bunch of shirts and stuff...

...that they needed,
they were really happy.

We live on pretty much
opposite sides of the globe...

...but really we're...
We have the same heart...

...and God loves us all the same.

I can learn a lot from them, and I think
we underestimate young people.

I think we underestimate kids.

There's so much to be learned
through their eyes...

...and the reminder that if you look
at life through fresh eyes...

...that there's a purity
to be found there.

There's a purpose
to be found there.

God taught me just to be
more thankful for everything I have...

...and not to take anything
for granted.

Few places are as beautiful
as the east coast of Australia.

With 80 percent of the population
living near the coastline...

... Australians love the water.

Around every bend in the coast...

... there was another fun surf break
and inviting green water.

It's easy to see why Australia
is truly a surfer's paradise.

It's interesting to see animals in
another country you can't see at home.

What better way
to learn about creatures...

... than a hands-on experience?

It's like watching the nature channel,
but everything's right in front of you.

Some animals will let you
get close to them...

... and others, you definitely
don't wanna get near.

He has, like, sharp legs.

- I didn't know grasshoppers can fly.
- I thought they only hopped.

I learned so much more
from all the animals in person...

...than just reading
out of some book.

Koala bears here are amazing.

They're big, like, furballs.

I like koala bears
because they hug you.

The animals at the store
look more real...

...than the koala bears do
in real life.

The kangaroos, they're so funny.
They just, like, have huge feet.

Gigantic. Like size 20.

A kangaroo feels like a dog.
A big, ugly dog.

This one kangaroo
was like dead asleep.

It was like, anything you did to it,
it was just like:

We soon felt like we'd gotten a taste
of the real Australia.

And I finally convinced them
that their moms would not be happy...

... if they came home
with a pet kangaroo.

I brought Luke and Tyler
to Australia...

... because they dream
of becoming professional surfers.

So I took them to watch the
World Championship Tour of surfing...

... that was in town
for the opening contest of the year.

When we got there,
the beach was so crowded.

I couldn't believe all the people
were here just to watch.

When me and Luke get older,
that's our dream.

We wanna be on the WCT, and it was
so neat to experience that firsthand.

Taking Luke and Tyler to see
the World Championship Tour...

... was like taking Little League
baseball players to the World Series.

I introduced them to one of
their heroes, Damien Hobgood...

... who's been living out their dream
on tour for the past eight years.

Three, two, one.

The WCT is the top 45 surfers...

...who travel around the world...

...and compete against each other
to crown a world champ.

Surfing for these guys is their job.

The World Tour requires nonstop travel
and they're always under pressure.

It's a career that many people want,
but few can handle.

When you're a kid
and you're going through that stuff...

...it's bombarding your brain.
You have this great session...

...or let's say you lose in a contest,
then you got a photo trip after that.

For Luke and Tyler, who knows?
Maybe at the end one of them's going:

"I love surfing, but I don't think being
a professional surfer is my deal."

Certain things that you do
could impact a kid for his whole life.

We got kids coming up,
and when I was their age...

...my dream was to be on that tour.

When my dream came true,
it was gonna be happiness...

...and found out that I was more empty
than ever before.

If you're living this life for yourself,
there's always gonna be that void.

Everything could end tomorrow.

I could hurt myself.
I could, you know, do whatever.

It might all stop,
and I always have to remember that.

I mean, you look at those kids,
it's not about who got the best wave...

...who got the best barrel.
It was just pure enjoyment.

And I know when I go surfing
that I just wanna, like, hang out.

And to be able to tap into that and
come back to when you were a kid...

...and you could see the same
enjoyment they had is what you had.

You see the way it really is,
the reason why I started surfing.

When we arrived in France,
we stopped in Paris...

... to see the culture and art
this part of the world is known for.

It was Luke and Tyler's first trip
to Europe...

... and they were immediately curious
about everything we saw.

France is so much different
than back home.

When I think of France, I think of, like,
French toast or something like that.

We went to go see the Eiffel Tower.
This thing's gigantic.

When most people think of France,
the last thing they think about is surfing.

Surprisingly, it's home
to some of the world's best waves.

CJ and Damien Hobgood
are twin brothers...

... and two of the best surfers
in the world.

When they invited us
to meet them in Hossegor...

... it was an opportunity of a lifetime
for Luke and Tyler.

CJ and Damien
are my favorite surfers.

It was so good to surf with them.
Whenever I surf with pros...

...it just pushes me to surf
as good as I can.

CJ and Damien Hobgood,
it's fun surfing with them every day.

They're cool guys, really laid back,
and fun to hang around with.

Luke and Tyler are just classic groms,
you know?

I can see me in them.

It's cool.

When we look at kids, we're like:

"Gosh, how much better off they are
than we are sometimes," you know?

And just whatever it is,
they have faith and they trust you.

When you're growing up,
that's what you need.

You just need faith.

It didn't seem like I was talking
to two of the best surfers.

It just seemed like I was talking
to two normal people.

They just talked to you like a friend,
you know?

I look up to them because
they can just juggle their families...

...their newborn babies...

...and they're still surfing
around the world, doing contests.

I wanna be able to do that
and still have a family and stuff.

We hang out with kids and have kids
so we can start living again.

If we can give kids a foundation...

...then, yeah, storms are gonna
come along and, you know...

...the top might get blown off
your house or whatever.

But you know
that their foundation is the Lord...

...which doesn't sway,
it doesn't change.

With having a foundation
within the Lord...

...you can have hope
in a crazy, messed-up world...

...that doesn't make sense.

I go out and this doesn't go right,
I just have to go back to the basics...

...and I go, "It's gonna be all right."

And with that foundation
you can conquer anything.

You can do anything.

And no matter what happens,
you have him.

CJ and Damien told us
you can't come to France...

... without visiting
one of the local bakeries.

If the smell of fresh pastries
doesn't draw you in...

... the first look
through the window will.

The people were super nice.

We got to try some of this, like,
chocolate fountain.

And then they showed us
where they make everything.

We got to make these little,
like, pie, cream...

...like fruit dealio things.

They have this little delivery bike...

...and they brought it out and said,
"Hey, you ride this."

Tyler tried speaking his best French
to sell some of their pastries...

... but just couldn't get the hang
of their bike.

Yeah, I think we participated
in a French tradition.

On our trip to South Africa...

... I wanted Luke and Tyler to meet
three of my close friends.

So I invited Noah Snyder,
Jesse Hines and C T Taylor to join us.

Africa, I think of fields...

...and plains and, of course,
lions and elephants...

...and just the weird deer
with the big horns on their head.

It's almost kind of magical. It's like...

You wait to see what's gonna
come across your path.

When I think of Africa I think of a place
that has a lot for some...

...and very little for others.

People always say
that when you come to Africa...

... you never leave the same.

No one in our group
had ever set foot on the continent...

... and we knew very little
about where to go.

Fortunately, a close friend,
Cheyne Cottrell, lives in Cape Town...

... and volunteered to be our guide.

I grew up in Deerfield Beach, Florida,
born and raised.

My dad owned a surf shop there
and he was also a pastor.

When I was 14 our family moved
to South Africa...

...where he wanted
to start a church.

He loved to surf all the big waves
around here, like Dungeons...

...and he would never back down
if there was a big swell coming.

This is Platboom here.

This is where my dad passed away,
like, almost four years ago now.

It was one evening
with a couple of his friends.

He caught a wave and hit his head
but his friends thought he went in.

And they ran down and they found him
floating in the tidal pools over there.

When you lose someone suddenly...

...you really learn that your relationship
with the Lord is everything.

It was pretty heavy.
I'd pray every day till I fell asleep.

And, yeah, without the Lord
I would've been a wreck for sure.

If you don't have the Lord
you can get very angry...

...or blame yourself
and fall into quite deep depression.

Having the Lord, you have hope...

...and you know that he has a plan
and a purpose for your life...

...for the life of the one that's passed,
and that he loves you.

After my dad passed away
was when I went to the Outer Banks...

...and met Jesse and Noah.

CT was there for the same swell.
I got to know those guys.

They showed me around.
And now they're here...

...checking out my local spots.

There are not many places where you
can come in from a surf session...

... and be surrounded
by wild baboons.

Cheyne warned they have large teeth
and are known to be very aggressive.

We probably should've taken him
a little more seriously.

Oh, my gosh.

Where is it?

Here he comes.

Yeah.

- Make sure all the doors are locked.
- Holy crap. Oh, my God.

I can't breathe.

I can't stop laughing right now.

We could not have asked
for a better tour guide.

Cheyne loves to have fun. Not only
did he take us to the best surf spots...

... but he wanted us to get an
up-close look at some of the animals.

- It's massive.
- Look at this guy.

That's not normal, to be that close...

Oh, my gosh. I'm sorry!

Did you see that?

Oh, my God.

Noah got the bright idea
in the lion park...

...to stick his shirt
through the window.

Yeah, no.

So the lions started to smell people.

And even though
you're in an enclosed car...

...you knew that big cat could pounce
on the window and you could be done.

Are you kidding me?

That's crazy.

Cheyne, he seems like he's really
into checking the swell...

...and seems like
he knows the facts.

He told me and Luke that he thought
there was a swell about to hit J-Bay.

I think every surfer in the world
wants to surf J-Bay...

...if they're coming to South Africa.

It's the best right point break
in the world.

Cheyne discovered that a storm
off the coast of Antarctica...

... was pushing the first swell
of the year towards our coast.

He said that it could possibly produce
perfect conditions...

... for this famous wave.

It would take an entire day
to drive there...

... and even then
it wasn't a guarantee.

But this was a once-in-a-lifetime
chance that none of us could pass up.

I wanted to go to J-Bay because I'd
seen it in the movies, it looked perfect.

Just watching all the pros on videos
and stuff, it just looked so good.

We didn't see it.
We got there at night and went to bed.

So right when we woke up
we saw these perfect lines.

The sun was coming up
and everything was so perfect.

We were just psyching so hard
to get out there.

My feelings when I first saw J-Bay
were overwhelming.

It's like this unfinished puzzle
in my head was complete.

I've always wondered what it was like
and I got to see it for the first time.

There are moments in life
you never forget...

... and for each of us,
we knew that this day...

... would become one of them.

Jeffreys Bay, South Africa.

Luke and Tyler are super fortunate
to come and see how good they got it.

They got really lucky
and I'm stoked for them.

What are the odds?
We could've been there any time...

...and we're there during
the first good swell of the year.

I was just, like, freaking out.

That's a surfer's dream...

...to go to a place like Jeffrey's Bay...

...and surf those waves
on a day like that.

Cheyne, he was right on.
Best wave I've ever surfed.

It was perfect.

The people of South Africa
have endured...

... many hardships over the years.

They've had to deal with the effects
of apartheid, poverty and disease.

As a result, a generation of kids
has been forced to grow up fast...

... and deal with the reality of death
at an early age.

Cheyne took us to Mossel Bay...

... where there's a community of kids
who've overcome struggles...

... through their love of surfing
and their faith in God.

The kids of Mossel Bay
formed a surf club a few years ago...

... that meets every Saturday
at their local beach.

For them,
surfing together is their alternative...

... to the gangs, drugs
and petty crime...

... most teenagers are involved with
in their neighborhoods.

Out of all the people we've met...

... these kids loved to surf
more than anyone...

... and you can see it
all over their faces.

Usually in California,
we just get just a couple people...

...so it won't get too crowded,
but they don't care.

They just gather up all their friends
and just get out in the water.

Only a mile away,
on the hillside of their town...

... is another world that's far removed
from the fun waters of the beach.

Most single-parent families
live in poverty...

... and many of the children grow up
with little opportunity.

My name is Luianda
and I'm 16 years old.

When they came yesterday
to the surfing...

...they taught us how to catch a wave.
They were pushing us.

Yeah, it was the first time
some of the kids have surfed here.

When I caught my first wave,
I feel very excited.

My heart beats fast.

It beats fast, yes.

Here in town...

...some of the kids don't want us
to mix with them because of the color.

But Luke and Tyler doesn't care
if you are white or black.

They just know that you are
a human being to them, yeah.

You are the same person as them.

The kids of South Africa needs help
and support from the other people.

There is poverty.

But I have learned
that we are not all of us rich or poor.

But when it is in God,
all of us are rich...

...all of us are poor in God, yeah.

Okay, I'm Chuma Muwaba.
I'm 12 years.

The day I went into the water,
surfed...

...I told myself inside
it will keep me out of bad stuff...

...and will keep me out of danger.

At the beach I enjoy myself.

It's my passion.

Not only to surf
but also to learn about God.

And without God I wouldn't be here.

I started to be a Christian
when I was 14 years old.

My pastor, in Sundays,
he was preaching to them...

...and I heard those words,
that it's like he's speaking into me.

He's telling me
when he was preaching.

So I thought that it's the time now.
I must get saved.

And give your whole heart to God...

...and he will accept you.

Inside you feel safe. Because why?
Because you pray to Jesus.

And you know,
give all your problems to him.

Give all your problems over to him.

With the Lord, anything is possible.

You can see in these kids that their
faith in God has sustained them...

...through all the pain and suffering
in their lives, their friends' lives...

...and all the death and poverty
and addiction.

Just hearing them broke my heart
because they live in Africa...

...and I live in North Carolina...

...but it's the same thing going on
all over the world.

There's things
that you have to overcome.

For me, when I was growing up...

...and experiencing all the things that I
went through, surfing was my outlet.

It was the way
that I escaped my problems.

It was something
that took my mind off things.

And I think for these kids over here
it's the same way.

In some ways I can relate,
but in some I can't...

...because they go through
some really hard times.

Their problems are real
because they deal with life and death.

I can relate
because my 8-year-old sister...

...was diagnosed with brain cancer.

There's nothing I can do, no matter
how hard I try, to make that go away.

So all I can do is rely on God.

I've learned from the kids here in Africa
that you need to have childlike faith.

And it seemed to be
such a simple thing...

...that I've probably complicated
my whole life.

These kids understand
how much God loves them.

And they know
he'll always protect them...

...and give them hope
even in the worst situations.

And they find peace in that,
and knowing that Jesus died for them.

And not just them
but for the whole world...

...that we could all have
a relationship with him.

Every kid in the world
needs belonging.

They need purpose.

And that is what God has set in place
in their hearts.

The township kids here
who have the Lord...

...living and dwelling in them
have found their place.

So even though they have nothing,
so to speak...

...they have everything.

Before we even went on our first trip,
all Luke and Tyler wanted to know...

... was if we'd be going to
the Mentawai Islands in Indonesia.

Indo is so perfect,
it's like a painting.

God just laid out everything
in its perfect place.

The small island chain
is a 12-hour boat ride...

... from Sumatra
out into the Indian Ocean.

Though it's extremely remote,
over the last decade...

... it's become a common destination
for traveling surfers.

With a wide variety of breaks
and reef passes...

... it's no wonder why some people
call it the Disneyland of surfing.

It's just like crystal clear water...

...and just perfect waves
everywhere.

Being on a boat in Indo
is every surfer's dream.

The waves
that I grew up watching...

...and seeing in magazines,
now I got to really surf them.

It's like heaven on earth.

On our trip was Alana Mock,
Bethany Hamilton and Tom Curren.

Alana is one of Bethany's
best friends from Hawaii...

... where they grew up
surfing together.

At age 13, Bethany lost her arm
in a shark attack.

Her courage to return to the water
has inspired many people...

... and somehow she surfs better
with one arm...

... than most people do with two.

Tom Curren has influenced
many surfers with his fluid style...

... and is considered
a legend in surfing.

He's been visiting these islands
since the early '90s...

... and was instrumental in the search
for new waves in this region.

It's just a real unique place.

The weather's nice
and the waves are good.

And the chances are,
you're gonna get really good surf.

Of all the trips, I was most...

Luke and Tyler told me
Tom Curren was going with them...

...with Bethany Hamilton to Indonesia.
I'm like, "Guys, let's do it.

I'm going on a boat trip with you
to Indonesia."

And I'm like, "Can I go?"
And they're like, "No."

But I'm pretty sure that by "no,"
they meant "yes."

Tom, to me,
has been my favorite surfer...

...since I was, like, 6 or something.

Now I'm on a boat trip with him.
It's amazing.

When I grow up,
I wanna be a pro surfer like Tom.

Going out and doing the contests...

...and getting sponsorships
and things like that...

...it's a thing that kids, I think,
get caught up in...

...is they think that this
certain lifestyle is gonna be great...

...and it actually can be
very damaging.

It's not all, you know,
fun and games...

...and it doesn't compare
with being right with God.

Everybody wants a hero,
and there's only one.

The Bible says in Romans 3:23...

...that all have sinned
and fall short of the glory of God.

Your heroes have sinned
and fall short of the glory of God.

There's one hero
that went the extra mile...

...that said,
"Hey, I know this about you.

You're all in the same boat spiritually.
I'm gonna do something about it.

I'm gonna die on the cross for you
and I'm gonna raise from the dead...

...and be victorious over it forever."

That's the hero we need.
That's the hero I need.

Everyone got to know each other
really well on this trip.

Spending time in such close quarters,
we became like a little family.

We had each meal together and shared
every aspect of life with one another.

Tom is known
for being quiet and reserved...

... but spending time with Luke
and Tyler brought out the kid in him.

After the first day or two,
he got used to us real quick...

...and it's kind of like
he's a little kid inside.

Little Tom-grom came out.

Luke and Tyler were totally amped
all the time.

They have a really good attitude...

...and that part of it is really
what I would like to have for myself.

The young surfing star
lost her left arm to a shark attack.

She lost her arm, but you know what?
She did not lose her courage.

- What did it feel like to go back in?
- People said she'd never do it.

What about your personal life?

Do you believe in fate?

I have a faith in Jesus Christ
and I know he has plans for my life...

... and that everything
is gonna work out for the good.

Back on her board
three weeks later...

... and is now ranked number four
in the world.

Since Bethany was a little girl...

... her dream was to become
a professional surfer.

After the shark attack...

... that dream had seemingly come
to an end.

Everyone's gonna hit
some kind of trial.

You know, a lot of times,
we tend to run away from God...

...and try to do things on our own
before we turn to him first.

Jesus says, "I've come to give you life
more abundantly."

He's the only one
that can shine the light...

...to make your life here
make sense.

Not only make sense
but absolutely filled with purpose.

Bethany's story
gives everybody hope.

Kids that lost something in their lives
and think it's over when it's really not.

Bethany kind of shows the world...

...that any problem can be overcome,
you know...

...and there's hope in everything.

Really, it's actually really simple.

You ask Jesus to help you
and, you know, to come into your life...

...and you do that sincerely.

And God is there to help you
and to guide you.

I made the choice
and gave my problems to God...

...and he's taken care of it.

And he's brought so much good...

...to come out of what seems
like such a bad thing.

I'm stoked
that I didn't give up on life.

And I just look to God
for my strength.

As our trip to Indonesia
came to a close...

... I knew our journey
had reached its end.

But for Luke and Tyler, their
adventure in life was just beginning.

If I hadn't have accepted Bryan's gift
to take me and Tyler...

...I never would've gotten to do this.

Bryan, to me,
has become a big brother.

He's helped me come closer
to God...

...and just realize
what this world's really like.

Me and Tyler will both have memories
when we go home...

...of all our friendships we've built.

Going through these trips,
you realize...

...that the waves were good...

...but the relationships that were made
were even better.

I realize now why my hero
took me on that trip years ago.

He knew that my life would
never be the same.

And I know that Luke and Tyler's lives
will be forever changed.

All that they learned on these trips,
they'll take with them...

... and someday hopefully
pass it on to others.

It was cool seeing Luke and Tyler
go through the experience...

...because after the full experience,
they'll really see the world differently...

...they'll see people differently.

I really think for Luke and Tyler,
by traveling and seeing the world...

...it's given them a head start.

God definitely wants us
to live our dreams.

But you're not gonna be immune
to the life...

...and the world
that's thrown at you.

And there are times where you're like,
"Gosh, there's no hope for me."

But the Lord says,
"You become like a child...

...and you'll be new."

You always have a chance
to praise the Lord...

...by just give him your heart,
love him and praise him.

God come number one.

So much in the world,
there's so many decisions.

But the one that means the most is,
will I believe God?

Will I trust him and believe
he has good things for my life...

...or will I miss out
on what God has for me?

What began as a way
to give back to two young surfers...

... what once was given to me...

... became an opportunity
to see life again...

... through the eyes of a child.

Here we are in Australia,
Nic, Matt and Russell.

The making of... We don't know
the name of the film yet...

...so the making of...

- Said movie.
- The kids' movie.

- Do you know the place we surfed?
- No.

- Could you locate yourself on a map?
- No.

For this trip, I think it's like a plate.

You can't put this food on
because what...

And some kind of food...
I need to do this different.

Make it cooler in here
or I'm on the 8:00, okay?

I'm out of here.

The thing... I think people...
Big guys, they...

I know Bryan because this guy,
my shaper, his name is...

I got some money.
Maybe they should get like a...

If you can find a rotisserie chicken
or something.

We can get a couple rotisseries.

My shaper...

John Carper is my shaper!
John Carper's my shaper!

John Carper's my shaper!

Hey. I didn't see you there.

Just playing with this.

It was empty. It finished, didn't it?

I was looking for an empty metro.
No empty metros in Paris.

How are you? How you doing?

That was crazy.

Can I get out, please?

That's not good.

That's the best point,
the best place to be, and...

And so...

I kind of forgot the question
we're talking about.

- One-point-six.
- Hold on, dude.

Hold on, I gotta get this dude.

Get out of the shot, Doyle.

Me and my friend made sailboats
out of nothing.

I was pretty much
feeling like MacGyver.

I made a sailboat and we went out
and put them in the ocean.

They didn't work.
It was sick though.

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