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Can there be a country more shrouded
in mystery and fear
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00:00:05,560 --> 00:00:06,800
than North Korea?
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00:00:08,000 --> 00:00:13,679
It's a brutal dictatorship.
Many say it's intent on nuclear war.
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00:00:13,680 --> 00:00:17,880
A dystopian land of
military parades, repression
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00:00:17,881 --> 00:00:20,720
and barbaric prison camps.
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00:00:20,721 --> 00:00:24,439
But I've been given an
unprecedented opportunity
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00:00:24,440 --> 00:00:27,440
to go beyond the politics,
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00:00:27,441 --> 00:00:32,240
and visit the country
25 million people call home...
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00:00:32,241 --> 00:00:35,319
CHEERING
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..to travel 1,300 miles, across
a land of colourful cities...
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00:00:39,320 --> 00:00:41,480
Wow!
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00:00:41,481 --> 00:00:43,680
..and epic landscapes.
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00:00:43,681 --> 00:00:45,960
The Rockies or North Korea.
Take your pick.
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00:00:47,400 --> 00:00:50,400
To understand the so-called
hermit kingdom...
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00:00:52,360 --> 00:00:54,520
..I want to engage with
its people...
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00:00:54,521 --> 00:00:57,759
My name is Michael. Michael Palin.
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00:00:57,760 --> 00:01:01,159
..at a unique time in
the country's history.
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00:01:01,160 --> 00:01:06,479
There may be a change in relations
between your side and America.
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00:01:06,480 --> 00:01:09,759
Filming under supervision,
I'll need to tread carefully.
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00:01:09,760 --> 00:01:13,799
A good leader should be able
to deal with criticism.
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00:01:13,800 --> 00:01:18,040
That's where we are so different
from you.
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00:01:18,041 --> 00:01:22,440
But this will turn out to be the
most revealing journey of my life.
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CAR HORN HONKS
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00:01:30,680 --> 00:01:33,320
My journey begins in Beijing.
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00:01:33,321 --> 00:01:37,319
China is one of North Korea's
few allies in the world.
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00:01:37,320 --> 00:01:39,039
And more importantly for me,
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00:01:39,040 --> 00:01:41,920
it's the place where you can catch
an overnight train
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to its capital, Pyongyang.
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00:01:44,721 --> 00:01:47,080
Now, I have to find K...
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00:01:47,081 --> 00:01:50,000
K27 is the platform.
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Ah, there we are! I see it.
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Two, four, five, six, seven...
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Two must be down there.
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We've lost platform two.
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00:02:04,880 --> 00:02:07,760
Let's find another one like it.
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00:02:07,761 --> 00:02:10,120
I'll just follow everyone, I think.
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00:02:10,121 --> 00:02:12,840
I presume they're all getting
the same train.
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00:02:12,841 --> 00:02:15,959
Most of my fellow passengers
are Chinese,
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00:02:15,960 --> 00:02:21,239
and are travelling to Dandong, a
city on the border with North Korea.
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00:02:21,240 --> 00:02:22,759
The train is down here now.
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00:02:22,760 --> 00:02:27,000
It was two, it was four.
It's now six.
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00:02:27,001 --> 00:02:30,119
And coaches 1 to 16...
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00:02:30,120 --> 00:02:32,880
Oh, blimey!
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00:02:32,881 --> 00:02:34,600
There we are. Number 11.
45
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HE MUTTERS TO SELF
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OK.
HE GROANS
47
00:02:46,360 --> 00:02:47,360
Ah!
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Phew!
49
00:02:52,280 --> 00:02:56,520
Well, that was quite an ordeal,
actually getting onto the train.
50
00:03:05,760 --> 00:03:08,600
We're on the move,
and dead on time.
51
00:03:10,920 --> 00:03:13,360
I've even got a spittoon.
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00:03:13,361 --> 00:03:15,880
HE CHUCKLES
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00:03:15,881 --> 00:03:17,600
They never think of that on Virgin.
54
00:03:22,160 --> 00:03:26,320
This train will take me 500 miles
to the North Korean border.
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00:03:27,560 --> 00:03:29,479
After a quick change of train,
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00:03:29,480 --> 00:03:32,720
I'll then travel a further 200 miles
to Pyongyang.
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00:03:35,520 --> 00:03:39,039
I'm about to enter a country that
has essentially been cut off
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00:03:39,040 --> 00:03:42,320
from the outside world for 70 years.
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00:03:44,440 --> 00:03:47,759
It's quite different going to
North Korea, I think,
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00:03:47,760 --> 00:03:49,839
than anywhere else I've been.
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00:03:49,840 --> 00:03:52,520
I've never been to one country where
there's been quite so much of
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00:03:52,521 --> 00:03:54,479
a sort of blackout on information.
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00:03:54,480 --> 00:04:00,359
So, what I hope is that, although it
will be controlled - I know that,
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00:04:00,360 --> 00:04:03,160
all our movements and all that -
that we'll get beyond that
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00:04:03,161 --> 00:04:10,240
and actually get to know, or meet or
just observe the people themselves,
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00:04:10,241 --> 00:04:14,480
the North Koreans who live there
and work there and play there
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00:04:14,481 --> 00:04:16,920
and bring up their children there
and go to school there.
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00:04:16,921 --> 00:04:21,160
You know, if we can do that,
if I can get beyond the politics,
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00:04:21,161 --> 00:04:26,000
beyond - if you like - a very strict
regime, I want to find, hopefully,
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00:04:26,001 --> 00:04:29,400
the people who live this see us
as fellow human beings.
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00:04:30,480 --> 00:04:33,599
Cos that's the point of travelling
and going around the world.
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00:04:33,600 --> 00:04:37,040
It's to see that people, actually,
are much closer to us than we think.
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00:04:44,160 --> 00:04:45,920
After a bumpy night...
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00:04:47,720 --> 00:04:50,080
..the train pulls into
Dandong Station.
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00:04:53,960 --> 00:04:56,840
We're now only a few hundred metres
from the border.
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00:04:59,880 --> 00:05:04,760
After clearing Chinese customs, it's
time to board the North Korean train
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00:05:04,761 --> 00:05:06,760
that will take me to Pyongyang.
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00:05:07,920 --> 00:05:12,200
Right, a lot of merchandise
being loaded on down there.
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00:05:12,201 --> 00:05:14,840
TRAIN HORN
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00:05:14,840 --> 00:05:15,840
I think we're going.
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00:05:17,520 --> 00:05:18,680
This is it.
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00:05:19,880 --> 00:05:25,679
The Sino-Korea Friendship Bridge is
all that separates us from the DPRK,
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00:05:25,680 --> 00:05:28,160
the Democratic People's
Republic of Korea.
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00:05:31,920 --> 00:05:34,120
As we cross the Yalu River,
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00:05:34,121 --> 00:05:37,680
a stark difference between these
two countries becomes clear.
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00:05:40,160 --> 00:05:41,480
I mean, you can just see...
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00:05:43,040 --> 00:05:45,800
..the Chinese shores
full of tower blocks.
88
00:05:48,360 --> 00:05:51,759
So it is an extraordinary...
That contrast is amazing -
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00:05:51,760 --> 00:05:55,679
the sort of high-rise Chinese
northern shore,
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00:05:55,680 --> 00:05:57,120
and the southern shore.
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00:06:00,800 --> 00:06:04,240
It's a completely different feel
to it - much more open, low-rise.
92
00:06:06,040 --> 00:06:08,920
I suppose now, we are more than
halfway across the river,
93
00:06:08,921 --> 00:06:11,360
so we're in North Korea.
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00:06:18,520 --> 00:06:21,719
Immediately, everything
looks different.
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00:06:21,720 --> 00:06:24,320
It's as if we've stepped back
in time.
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00:06:25,480 --> 00:06:26,560
High security.
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00:06:36,200 --> 00:06:40,680
North Korean military guards on
the platform of Sinuiju Station
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00:06:40,681 --> 00:06:44,920
remind me that I'm entering a
country under totalitarian rule.
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00:06:46,840 --> 00:06:49,000
And as they prepare to board
the train,
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00:06:49,001 --> 00:06:51,200
to check our visas and passports,
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00:06:51,201 --> 00:06:54,919
we get our first taste of
North Korean authority.
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00:06:54,920 --> 00:06:57,040
We're told to turn off the camera.
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00:07:00,360 --> 00:07:03,240
One hour later, I'm allowed onto
the platform.
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00:07:04,560 --> 00:07:07,320
A lot of papers had to be
gone through and signed.
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00:07:07,321 --> 00:07:10,839
One man would come in and
take down all the details.
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00:07:10,840 --> 00:07:13,160
People in very impressive big cats
would come in
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00:07:13,161 --> 00:07:15,159
and ask for exactly
the same details.
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00:07:15,160 --> 00:07:19,159
Questions I didn't expect, like,
"Did I have a Bible with me?"
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00:07:19,160 --> 00:07:22,120
And normally, you'd say, "Oh, yes,
absolutely. I'm a good Christian,"
110
00:07:22,121 --> 00:07:23,799
but, no, that's the wrong
answer here.
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00:07:23,800 --> 00:07:27,239
If you say, "I have a Bible,"
they'd want to know about that.
112
00:07:27,240 --> 00:07:29,560
So, you know, it's
a little unsettling.
113
00:07:29,561 --> 00:07:32,480
But it's intriguing
at the same time.
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00:07:32,481 --> 00:07:36,359
I mean, they have my passport,
so I can't leave.
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00:07:36,360 --> 00:07:38,920
I've just been kept
slightly unsettled,
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00:07:38,921 --> 00:07:41,320
and this is probably deliberate.
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00:07:43,200 --> 00:07:47,920
From now on, my fate lies in
the hands of the North Koreans.
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00:07:47,921 --> 00:07:52,080
But after a tense wait, we're
allowed on our way to Pyongyang.
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00:08:02,760 --> 00:08:07,400
Some people simply just washing
their bicycles on the river.
120
00:08:07,401 --> 00:08:10,440
And along the side here,
by the railway line,
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00:08:10,441 --> 00:08:13,759
everywhere seems sort of cultivated.
People have...
122
00:08:13,760 --> 00:08:16,160
It looks like very inhospitable
ground has been dug,
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00:08:16,161 --> 00:08:17,480
and something has been planted.
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00:08:18,880 --> 00:08:22,119
With no Internet or
international phone signal,
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00:08:22,120 --> 00:08:26,360
I'm now effectively cut off
from the outside world.
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00:08:26,361 --> 00:08:30,000
And the world I've entered
seems rather strange.
127
00:08:31,720 --> 00:08:38,680
I haven't seen a car in all this
development, or bicycles.
128
00:08:38,681 --> 00:08:42,600
There we are, a road.
Empty - completely empty of cars.
129
00:08:44,280 --> 00:08:48,200
It all seems of
a very different time.
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00:08:49,720 --> 00:08:54,000
Korea was divided in 1945
after the Second World War,
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00:08:54,001 --> 00:08:57,839
and has been largely governed on
Communist principles ever since.
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00:08:57,840 --> 00:08:59,599
Closed off from the outside world,
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00:08:59,600 --> 00:09:02,160
and now under strict
international sanctions,
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00:09:02,161 --> 00:09:04,400
it's seen little
economic development.
135
00:09:06,880 --> 00:09:08,919
When it comes to the dining car,
136
00:09:08,920 --> 00:09:12,959
it looks like nothing has changed
since the 1950s.
137
00:09:12,960 --> 00:09:16,239
Table for one. Lunch, please.
138
00:09:16,240 --> 00:09:17,719
Thank you. Thank you.
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00:09:17,720 --> 00:09:20,000
HE SPEAKS KOREAN
140
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Ah, good! That's the first word
I've used.
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00:09:26,080 --> 00:09:29,599
Hello.
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00:09:29,600 --> 00:09:33,039
HE SPEAKS KOREAN
I've said it twice now,
143
00:09:33,040 --> 00:09:37,240
and look what I've got as a result
of speaking Korean.
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00:09:37,241 --> 00:09:38,440
It's beautiful, isn't it?
145
00:09:39,760 --> 00:09:42,080
And I think this must be...
It's the kimchi.
146
00:09:43,160 --> 00:09:46,160
Made from fermented cabbage
and chillies,
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00:09:46,161 --> 00:09:49,999
kimchi is a staple of
the North Korean diet.
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00:09:50,000 --> 00:09:51,920
Wow! It's quite fierce.
149
00:09:53,120 --> 00:09:55,720
After the kimchi, I think you'd need
something that sort of
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00:09:55,721 --> 00:09:56,880
puts out the fire.
151
00:10:00,400 --> 00:10:06,760
There's a sort of video playing,
and there's mainly missiles on it.
152
00:10:06,761 --> 00:10:11,280
Various shots of the great leaders,
and applause.
153
00:10:12,440 --> 00:10:15,960
Lunch, with a side order of
North Korean propaganda.
154
00:10:19,680 --> 00:10:25,000
Eventually, after six long hours,
we trundle into Pyongyang.
155
00:10:37,040 --> 00:10:40,959
I'm told this is where I'll be met
by the two guides who will be
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00:10:40,960 --> 00:10:46,199
making sure that I don't step out
of line for the next two weeks.
157
00:10:46,200 --> 00:10:49,080
Hello. Pleased to meet you. Are you
Mr Michael Palin from Britain?
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00:10:49,081 --> 00:10:51,640
I am, Michael Palin, yes, yes.
Nice to meet you.
159
00:10:51,641 --> 00:10:54,839
Nice to meet you! Hello!
How are you? Nice to meet you.
160
00:10:54,840 --> 00:10:57,080
Annyeong hashimnikka.
Annyeong hashimnikka!
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00:10:57,081 --> 00:10:59,680
I've been learning that
on the train.
162
00:10:59,681 --> 00:11:02,879
You're a good student.
Thank you very much.
163
00:11:02,880 --> 00:11:05,520
Hardly the threatening minders
I was expecting.
164
00:11:09,080 --> 00:11:10,999
My name is Lee Soo-young.
165
00:11:11,000 --> 00:11:14,679
Lee is surname... Yeah?
..and Soo-young is given name... OK.
166
00:11:14,680 --> 00:11:17,999
..so you can call me either way.
What would you prefer to be called?
167
00:11:18,000 --> 00:11:21,359
If you want to be more friendly,
then Soo-young. Soo-young.
168
00:11:21,360 --> 00:11:24,839
I'll be more friendly,
with your approval. Soo-young...
169
00:11:24,840 --> 00:11:29,800
Lee Kyung-chul. Ah! Soo-young and...
Kyung-chul. Kyung-chul, OK.
170
00:11:29,801 --> 00:11:33,560
Michael, just Michael.
Yeah, yeah! Michael. Yeah, yes.
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00:11:43,040 --> 00:11:47,640
As we drive to the hotel, I find it
hard to believe I'm finally here.
172
00:11:51,080 --> 00:11:54,559
I know that there'll be restrictions
on what I see,
173
00:11:54,560 --> 00:11:58,239
but despite this, I'm hoping
Pyongyang will give me a greater
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00:11:58,240 --> 00:12:01,679
understanding of a country
once described as being on
175
00:12:01,680 --> 00:12:03,320
"the axis of evil".
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00:12:07,240 --> 00:12:08,400
MUSIC ECHOING
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00:12:14,360 --> 00:12:17,000
My first morning in Pyongyang -
178
00:12:17,001 --> 00:12:19,920
and the world's most unusual
wake-up call.
179
00:12:23,640 --> 00:12:26,080
I first heard this, I think,
at five o'clock this morning.
180
00:12:27,360 --> 00:12:30,519
It's like music emanates from
the whole city.
181
00:12:30,520 --> 00:12:34,720
I don't know where it's coming from.
No source of speakers.
182
00:12:34,721 --> 00:12:37,360
It's just this fusion of sound.
183
00:12:39,760 --> 00:12:42,080
It was quite menacing
at five o'clock.
184
00:12:42,081 --> 00:12:47,199
Now it's... Sun's come out,
it's just rather strange.
185
00:12:47,200 --> 00:12:49,040
Sounds vaguely Brian Eno.
186
00:12:50,440 --> 00:12:52,240
Oh, there he is. Hi, Brian!
187
00:12:53,680 --> 00:12:56,240
And the thing is that...
188
00:12:56,241 --> 00:13:00,640
The other sound, when you think
of a city, is screaming sirens -
189
00:13:00,641 --> 00:13:04,679
you know, cars rushing around.
None of that at all.
190
00:13:04,680 --> 00:13:06,440
So that's why this sound
can really...
191
00:13:08,280 --> 00:13:10,199
You can't avoid it.
HE LAUGHS
192
00:13:10,200 --> 00:13:12,320
I suppose that's the thing.
You can't avoid it.
193
00:13:13,600 --> 00:13:15,279
It's just the sound of Pyongyang,
194
00:13:15,280 --> 00:13:19,880
which is not the sound of any other
city I've ever been in, in my life.
195
00:13:19,881 --> 00:13:23,239
The track is called Where Are You,
Dear General? -
196
00:13:23,240 --> 00:13:27,000
referring to the first leader
of the DPRK, Kim Il-sung.
197
00:13:29,640 --> 00:13:33,039
And after breakfast, it's time to
head out for my first appointment
198
00:13:33,040 --> 00:13:36,280
of the day with the great leaders
themselves.
199
00:13:37,440 --> 00:13:40,080
While our growing group of minders
are nervous about us
200
00:13:40,081 --> 00:13:41,559
filming on the streets,
201
00:13:41,560 --> 00:13:45,559
it gives me my first sense of
daily life in Pyongyang.
202
00:13:45,560 --> 00:13:48,120
And it's all very normal.
203
00:13:48,121 --> 00:13:50,240
But I do notice one
significant difference.
204
00:13:51,960 --> 00:13:54,280
That's interesting. That's the
first poster I've seen -
205
00:13:54,281 --> 00:13:56,560
a kind of propagandist poster.
206
00:13:56,561 --> 00:13:58,480
All clutching,
clutching their weapons.
207
00:13:59,720 --> 00:14:01,239
Cos there's no advertising here,
208
00:14:01,240 --> 00:14:04,520
you don't see any sort of
consumer goods. Just ideas.
209
00:14:10,800 --> 00:14:11,800
Hello.
210
00:14:18,880 --> 00:14:23,320
The Pyongyang Metro system was built
in the 1970s,
211
00:14:23,321 --> 00:14:25,880
but its grandeur is from
a different age.
212
00:14:26,960 --> 00:14:29,520
It's quite something.
That's quite something.
213
00:14:39,000 --> 00:14:41,680
This view of urban life is
very different to what I saw
214
00:14:41,681 --> 00:14:45,079
from the train yesterday,
possibly because Pyongyang
215
00:14:45,080 --> 00:14:48,879
is much more prosperous than
the rest of the country.
216
00:14:48,880 --> 00:14:52,399
You could just stay here, really.
Why bother to catch a train?
217
00:14:52,400 --> 00:14:54,760
You can watch the world go by.
218
00:14:54,761 --> 00:14:58,759
I've arrived in the DPRK
at an historic time.
219
00:14:58,760 --> 00:15:02,599
State-controlled newspapers are
covered with photos of a meeting
220
00:15:02,600 --> 00:15:05,640
between the current leaders
of North and South Korea -
221
00:15:05,641 --> 00:15:08,600
one that heralds new hope for peace.
222
00:15:08,601 --> 00:15:11,160
KIDS SPEAK KOREAN
223
00:15:13,280 --> 00:15:16,439
Ever since Korea was divided
in 1945,
224
00:15:16,440 --> 00:15:20,159
North Korea has been ruled by
the Kim family.
225
00:15:20,160 --> 00:15:21,760
Their images are everywhere.
226
00:15:24,400 --> 00:15:28,000
And everyone seems to be wearing
badges featuring their faces.
227
00:15:30,920 --> 00:15:34,079
I've been told that to understand
North Korea,
228
00:15:34,080 --> 00:15:36,520
you need to understand the role
of the leaders.
229
00:15:39,520 --> 00:15:42,160
So I'm heading to the Mansudae
Grand Monument...
230
00:15:43,360 --> 00:15:46,400
..one of the most sacred places
in the whole country.
231
00:15:51,160 --> 00:15:54,559
These 22-metre tall bronze statues
232
00:15:54,560 --> 00:15:57,680
depict the first two leaders
of North Korea.
233
00:16:01,800 --> 00:16:05,079
Kim Il-sung on the left was
supported by the Russians,
234
00:16:05,080 --> 00:16:09,280
to lead the newly formed country
in 1945.
235
00:16:09,281 --> 00:16:12,080
After he died, his son, Kim Jong-il,
236
00:16:12,081 --> 00:16:15,639
took over until his death
seven years ago,
237
00:16:15,640 --> 00:16:18,800
leaving his son, Kim Jong-un,
as the current leader.
238
00:16:21,160 --> 00:16:25,400
Well, there they are - the biggest
leaders I've ever seen.
239
00:16:25,401 --> 00:16:29,439
And there's something about
the size and the scale,
240
00:16:29,440 --> 00:16:31,640
which is, undoubtedly,
incredibly impressive,
241
00:16:31,641 --> 00:16:35,399
and yet, there are very few statues
to great leaders around the world
242
00:16:35,400 --> 00:16:38,280
where they're smiling,
they're looking accessible.
243
00:16:38,281 --> 00:16:40,840
They've got this specs on,
they've got their gear on,
244
00:16:40,841 --> 00:16:43,040
they're sort of embracing
the country.
245
00:16:43,041 --> 00:16:47,039
I think that's what... Although it
seems very grand and overpowering,
246
00:16:47,040 --> 00:16:48,839
they're actually trying
to show the love,
247
00:16:48,840 --> 00:16:51,320
embrace the love of
the whole country -
248
00:16:51,321 --> 00:16:55,920
by smiling and making themselves
like the benign fathers,
249
00:16:55,921 --> 00:16:59,239
rather than the sort of
stern rulers.
250
00:16:59,240 --> 00:17:00,680
That's how I read it, anyway, but...
251
00:17:02,000 --> 00:17:03,240
..judge for yourself.
252
00:17:04,720 --> 00:17:08,399
In the West, the Kim dynasty is
known as a brutal dictatorship,
253
00:17:08,400 --> 00:17:11,320
but here, the great leaders
cannot be criticised.
254
00:17:11,321 --> 00:17:13,280
So I've been warned
to tread carefully.
255
00:17:14,560 --> 00:17:19,719
I notice that you wear the badge -
the party badge there -
256
00:17:19,720 --> 00:17:22,839
with the two leaders on. Yes.
257
00:17:22,840 --> 00:17:27,840
So, we say, our Korean nation is
Kim Il-sung, Kim Jong-il's nation,
258
00:17:27,841 --> 00:17:30,160
and we are all members of
the nation.
259
00:17:30,161 --> 00:17:31,960
So it's the symbol of that.
And it's...
260
00:17:34,640 --> 00:17:39,400
The reason why we have them on our
left-hand side is that it's...
261
00:17:40,640 --> 00:17:43,360
Where your heart is? Yeah, yeah.
Yes, yes.
262
00:17:43,361 --> 00:17:47,119
Is it significant that
they're smiling?
263
00:17:47,120 --> 00:17:50,599
Is that important, that they're
seen to be smiling?
264
00:17:50,600 --> 00:17:55,999
Yeah. So, when you are smiling,
they look very happy and very alive.
265
00:17:56,000 --> 00:18:00,600
So we Korean people think
that they are still alive.
266
00:18:00,601 --> 00:18:03,879
They are alive in our hearts,
even though they've passed away.
267
00:18:03,880 --> 00:18:09,479
They are more like fathers
than just political leaders.
268
00:18:09,480 --> 00:18:11,880
We call it single-hearted unity.
269
00:18:11,881 --> 00:18:16,640
The popular masses are united around
the leaders and the party,
270
00:18:16,641 --> 00:18:19,759
and with one will and one ideal.
271
00:18:19,760 --> 00:18:24,400
And presumably, when you're growing
up, from fairly early on in school,
272
00:18:24,401 --> 00:18:28,800
you're learning about their work
and what they represent?
273
00:18:28,801 --> 00:18:32,719
At school, of course, we learn
what they have done.
274
00:18:32,720 --> 00:18:39,400
But we all have got our own
outlook on the world.
275
00:18:39,401 --> 00:18:45,079
And so it's not like, what you call,
you know, brainwashing?
276
00:18:45,080 --> 00:18:46,520
It's not like that. OK.
277
00:18:48,360 --> 00:18:53,160
We learn from our hearts that they
have done really great things
278
00:18:53,161 --> 00:18:55,119
to all Korean people.
279
00:18:55,120 --> 00:18:58,999
The people who come here...
I see people getting married. Mm-hm.
280
00:18:59,000 --> 00:19:00,400
How many times a year...
281
00:19:01,480 --> 00:19:04,959
..should you come here? Is there
a time everyone should come?
282
00:19:04,960 --> 00:19:07,160
Or... It's voluntary.
283
00:19:07,161 --> 00:19:11,480
It's open for everyone,
and there is no, like...
284
00:19:12,920 --> 00:19:15,760
No-one tells us to do, what to do.
285
00:19:15,761 --> 00:19:18,839
"You should go there,"
or "You should go here."
286
00:19:18,840 --> 00:19:22,159
It's more, like, to our...
287
00:19:22,160 --> 00:19:25,000
Of our own volition.
From your heart, OK. Yes.
288
00:19:25,001 --> 00:19:27,640
There are many more questions
I'd like to ask,
289
00:19:27,641 --> 00:19:29,439
but now is not the time.
290
00:19:29,440 --> 00:19:33,040
It's made apparent by our minders
that I've already crossed the line.
291
00:19:34,760 --> 00:19:37,800
North Korea claims to have
no religion.
292
00:19:37,801 --> 00:19:40,560
But it's hard for me not to
think that, for many people,
293
00:19:40,561 --> 00:19:42,720
the great leaders are
filling that void.
294
00:19:44,160 --> 00:19:46,640
And in a country that has
a widely reported
295
00:19:46,641 --> 00:19:48,840
appalling human rights record,
296
00:19:48,841 --> 00:19:52,439
I worry that they've put their faith
in those who do not always act
297
00:19:52,440 --> 00:19:54,040
in their best interests.
298
00:19:57,920 --> 00:20:02,280
After lunch, it's a quick walk to
the east side of the Taedong River,
299
00:20:02,281 --> 00:20:06,720
and a place that offers me the best
view of the city, the Juche Tower.
300
00:20:09,360 --> 00:20:11,039
The tower?
301
00:20:11,040 --> 00:20:13,039
Annyeong hashimnikka.
Annyeong hashimnikka.
302
00:20:13,040 --> 00:20:15,240
That's right, I'm learning.
Annyeong hashimnikka.
303
00:20:15,241 --> 00:20:21,520
Annyeong...? Annyeong hashimnikka.
Annyeong hashimnikka. Hm.
304
00:20:21,521 --> 00:20:24,480
Annyeong hashimnikka.
Annyeong hashimnikka.
305
00:20:24,481 --> 00:20:27,320
Annyeong hashimnikka. Yes.
Annyeong hashimnikka.
306
00:20:27,321 --> 00:20:32,919
Hashimnikka. Hashimnikka?
Hashimnikka. Hashimnikka. Oh!
307
00:20:32,920 --> 00:20:36,399
Annyeong hashimnikka. Yes!
Annyeong hashimnikka. Good!
308
00:20:36,400 --> 00:20:37,959
THEY LAUGH
309
00:20:37,960 --> 00:20:39,840
It's a good thing
it's a high building! Yes!
310
00:20:41,920 --> 00:20:44,160
All that, just to say hello.
311
00:20:47,320 --> 00:20:49,440
OK. Please. Yes.
312
00:20:53,800 --> 00:20:54,800
Wow!
313
00:21:04,360 --> 00:21:09,160
The stunning view from this
170-metre tall tower
314
00:21:09,161 --> 00:21:13,320
gives me my first proper sense
of the size and scale of Pyongyang.
315
00:21:14,560 --> 00:21:18,079
I shouldn't say "Wow," but that is
the only thing you can say up here.
316
00:21:18,080 --> 00:21:19,999
It's astounding.
317
00:21:20,000 --> 00:21:23,880
The west side of the city is
dominated by grand buildings...
318
00:21:24,920 --> 00:21:27,120
..stadiums and new developments
319
00:21:27,121 --> 00:21:29,840
that look like something from
a science fiction movie.
320
00:21:34,560 --> 00:21:39,999
The east is a sea of Soviet-style
concrete apartment blocks.
321
00:21:40,000 --> 00:21:43,519
They used to be grey,
but Kim Jong-il instructed
322
00:21:43,520 --> 00:21:46,560
that the buildings be painted
in bright colours,
323
00:21:46,561 --> 00:21:48,400
transforming the skyline.
324
00:21:50,720 --> 00:21:53,520
One thing I do know is that
Pyongyang was just bombed flat
325
00:21:53,521 --> 00:21:58,999
in 1953, during the Korean War,
so what we are seeing here has -
326
00:21:59,000 --> 00:22:01,240
with, I think, the exception
of one building -
327
00:22:01,241 --> 00:22:06,000
all been built in the
last sort of 60 years.
328
00:22:06,001 --> 00:22:08,280
That's quite impressive.
329
00:22:08,281 --> 00:22:12,960
The name of the Juche Tower refers
to Kim Il-sung's ruling ideology...
330
00:22:14,080 --> 00:22:18,640
..one which has perpetuated the idea
of self-reliance and isolation
331
00:22:18,641 --> 00:22:22,679
from the rest of the world
for almost 70 years.
332
00:22:22,680 --> 00:22:26,119
Funny how cities all have a sort of
name, a ring about them.
333
00:22:26,120 --> 00:22:29,040
And very often, countries
are known by their cities.
334
00:22:29,041 --> 00:22:30,959
You know, Paris, France
and all that.
335
00:22:30,960 --> 00:22:35,480
And this is Pyongyang, North Korea,
which is a name I've known -
336
00:22:35,481 --> 00:22:39,720
a lot of us know - in always,
slightly threatening context.
337
00:22:39,721 --> 00:22:43,199
This is Pyongyang. What comes out
of here is vaguely sinister.
338
00:22:43,200 --> 00:22:45,680
What does it mean, a city's
threatening, a city's sinister?
339
00:22:45,681 --> 00:22:47,280
A city's a city, and this...
340
00:22:50,440 --> 00:22:52,000
..has its own grandeur in a way.
341
00:22:56,200 --> 00:22:59,120
Pyongyang also has a bizarre charm.
342
00:23:03,520 --> 00:23:08,240
And on my way back across the river,
I find it hard not to be transfixed
343
00:23:08,241 --> 00:23:11,800
by the traffic police stationed at
busy intersections.
344
00:23:15,960 --> 00:23:20,120
Their choreographed, robotic
movements are strangely hypnotic.
345
00:23:24,000 --> 00:23:27,440
They also, I notice, all appear
to be young women.
346
00:23:30,320 --> 00:23:34,480
There's a rumour that Marshal
Kim Jong-un hand-picks them himself.
347
00:23:45,640 --> 00:23:48,400
It's Sunday...
WHISTLE
348
00:23:48,401 --> 00:23:51,320
..the one-day weekend in the DPRK.
349
00:23:54,120 --> 00:23:56,480
Volleyball, big thing here?
350
00:23:56,481 --> 00:23:59,759
Yes. Quite a big sport.
Popular, yeah. Yeah.
351
00:23:59,760 --> 00:24:03,559
Soo-young and Kyung-chul are keen to
show me what they would be doing
352
00:24:03,560 --> 00:24:06,440
if they weren't having to look after
a British film crew.
353
00:24:08,920 --> 00:24:11,560
Have you ever shot a pistol?
354
00:24:11,561 --> 00:24:14,999
Well, not often, but I have, yeah.
I've had a go.
355
00:24:15,000 --> 00:24:18,000
Shall we? OK.
356
00:24:18,001 --> 00:24:21,719
He's going to show me, first of all,
what a hot shot he is,
357
00:24:21,720 --> 00:24:24,240
and why he has earned the name of
358
00:24:24,241 --> 00:24:28,079
the Wyatt Earp of
the Korean Peninsula.
359
00:24:28,080 --> 00:24:29,640
Oh, good! Yeah, yeah, yeah!
360
00:24:34,320 --> 00:24:38,720
Oh! Yeah. I keep aiming at
the yellow bit behind.
361
00:24:38,721 --> 00:24:40,400
I get that every time.
362
00:24:42,680 --> 00:24:44,479
Very close!
363
00:24:44,480 --> 00:24:45,480
Almost.
364
00:24:47,040 --> 00:24:49,960
Last one, OK? Cos I don't think
I'm destined to...
365
00:24:51,000 --> 00:24:52,200
..get one.
366
00:24:53,440 --> 00:24:55,079
Oh! Wow!
367
00:24:55,080 --> 00:24:57,360
Bravo! On camera or not?
368
00:24:57,361 --> 00:24:59,120
LAUGHTER
369
00:25:02,200 --> 00:25:05,799
To unwind after our efforts
at the shooting range,
370
00:25:05,800 --> 00:25:09,080
we find ourselves somewhere I really
wasn't expecting.
371
00:25:16,360 --> 00:25:18,760
A North Korean health spa.
372
00:25:21,040 --> 00:25:24,879
This is the state-run
Changgwang Health Complex.
373
00:25:24,880 --> 00:25:27,760
It's about as far from prison camps
and nuclear missiles
374
00:25:27,761 --> 00:25:28,920
as you can get...
375
00:25:32,200 --> 00:25:34,480
..and includes a hair salon
376
00:25:34,481 --> 00:25:38,199
which has a rather prescriptive
approach to hairstyles.
377
00:25:38,200 --> 00:25:42,119
Ah! These, I think, are the
recommended haircuts.
378
00:25:42,120 --> 00:25:44,960
All the styles you can have here
are up there.
379
00:25:46,360 --> 00:25:49,240
And these, actually,
look remarkably similar.
380
00:25:49,241 --> 00:25:52,240
No, you know, mullets or ponytails
381
00:25:52,241 --> 00:25:56,440
or anything sort of disorderly
like that. Very neat and tidy.
382
00:25:58,280 --> 00:26:02,880
Hello. Can you do a sort of massage,
not haircut?
383
00:26:02,881 --> 00:26:05,440
No haircut, but massage, OK?
384
00:26:05,441 --> 00:26:07,199
Thank you.
385
00:26:07,200 --> 00:26:13,520
Ooh! Already, I feel the pressure
slipping from my shoulders,
386
00:26:13,521 --> 00:26:19,320
down my back, and into this chair,
which is vibrating slightly.
387
00:26:23,160 --> 00:26:24,680
That's just what I want.
388
00:26:32,440 --> 00:26:33,720
Hope it doesn't come off.
389
00:26:37,120 --> 00:26:40,880
Thank you. This is a relaxing end
to a long day.
390
00:26:42,000 --> 00:26:43,040
Thank you very much.
391
00:26:46,080 --> 00:26:51,479
My hotel room gives me a rare moment
away from prying eyes and ears.
392
00:26:51,480 --> 00:26:53,320
Well, at least, I hope it does.
393
00:26:54,760 --> 00:26:56,880
Filming isn't easy here.
394
00:26:59,800 --> 00:27:05,039
Everywhere we go, we're accompanied
by an entourage of about five or six
395
00:27:05,040 --> 00:27:08,999
men and women in suits,
396
00:27:09,000 --> 00:27:11,920
who watch our every move and
check everything we're seeing
397
00:27:11,921 --> 00:27:15,359
and everything we're doing
and everything we're saying.
398
00:27:15,360 --> 00:27:18,919
But, you know, they do things
completely differently here.
399
00:27:18,920 --> 00:27:21,120
That's the way it is.
400
00:27:21,121 --> 00:27:23,720
We can't just come blundering in
and say, "We're from the West.
401
00:27:23,721 --> 00:27:25,479
"We want to see this,
we want to see that."
402
00:27:25,480 --> 00:27:28,879
If you're going to learn anything
at all, I think, about this country,
403
00:27:28,880 --> 00:27:31,960
you've got to prise the door open
very, very gently.
404
00:27:34,080 --> 00:27:37,639
We need to keep their trust,
and it's a slow process,
405
00:27:37,640 --> 00:27:40,999
but if we step out of line and
we shoot things we shouldn't shoot,
406
00:27:41,000 --> 00:27:43,640
then the door will be slammed shut.
That'll be the end of it.
407
00:27:43,641 --> 00:27:50,000
So it's really all about us
trusting them and them trusting us.
408
00:27:50,001 --> 00:27:53,920
I mean, so far, it's working quite
well, but we'll see in the end.
409
00:27:58,937 --> 00:28:03,857
Day two in Pyongyang, and it's time
to go back to school.
410
00:28:03,858 --> 00:28:05,376
From a young age,
411
00:28:05,377 --> 00:28:08,536
children in North Korea are taught
the revolutionary history
412
00:28:08,537 --> 00:28:12,216
of their country's battles
against Japanese occupiers
413
00:28:12,217 --> 00:28:16,417
and American aggressors, and the
heroic deeds of the great leaders.
414
00:28:16,418 --> 00:28:20,216
THEY SPEAK KOREAN
415
00:28:20,217 --> 00:28:24,737
What is more surprising is that
learning English is also compulsory.
416
00:28:25,817 --> 00:28:27,097
Annyeong hashimnikka!
417
00:28:28,977 --> 00:28:31,097
ALL: Hello!
418
00:28:32,697 --> 00:28:35,697
My name is Michael, Michael Palin.
419
00:28:35,698 --> 00:28:39,296
I live in Britain.
Anyone know London?
420
00:28:39,297 --> 00:28:42,137
That's it.
Very, very good - capital.
421
00:28:42,138 --> 00:28:43,816
I'll tell you what I've got.
422
00:28:43,817 --> 00:28:47,096
I've been to lots of places
in the world,
423
00:28:47,097 --> 00:28:50,497
and I travel with me
with this - a globe.
424
00:28:52,537 --> 00:28:56,576
ALL: One, two, three, four...
425
00:28:56,577 --> 00:29:00,496
I'm intrigued to know how well these
kids know the world around them,
426
00:29:00,497 --> 00:29:03,896
especially as international travel
is effectively banned
427
00:29:03,897 --> 00:29:08,617
for all North Koreans.
..eight, nine, ten.
428
00:29:08,618 --> 00:29:10,616
Yes!
429
00:29:10,617 --> 00:29:13,177
APPLAUSE Very good!
430
00:29:17,417 --> 00:29:20,576
Who would like to show me where
Britain is on this map?
431
00:29:20,577 --> 00:29:22,416
Who'd like to have a go?
432
00:29:22,417 --> 00:29:24,577
It's in Europe. Good, yes.
It's in Europe.
433
00:29:24,578 --> 00:29:26,777
And it is...?
434
00:29:26,778 --> 00:29:30,136
No, that's... There we are.
Yes, that there, yes.
435
00:29:30,137 --> 00:29:32,777
Now, throw it around.
Have a look at the world.
436
00:29:32,778 --> 00:29:35,217
That's it. OK.
437
00:29:35,218 --> 00:29:37,977
You've got to name a country.
India. India. Very good.
438
00:29:37,978 --> 00:29:41,656
Now you can throw it very hard
at anyone you don't like!
439
00:29:41,657 --> 00:29:45,256
Russia! Russia! OK. Who are you
going to throw it to?
440
00:29:45,257 --> 00:29:47,457
Japan. Japan.
441
00:29:47,458 --> 00:29:49,296
That's to me, OK.
442
00:29:49,297 --> 00:29:51,296
America.
443
00:29:51,297 --> 00:29:53,817
Canada. Canada.
Canada. Canada. Good, yeah.
444
00:29:53,818 --> 00:29:56,257
Well done. Now,
445
00:29:56,258 --> 00:30:00,777
if there's anything they would like
to ask me about my life?
446
00:30:00,778 --> 00:30:02,977
How many children in your family?
447
00:30:02,978 --> 00:30:07,217
I've got three children. How many
in your family? Four. Four.
448
00:30:07,218 --> 00:30:10,696
What do you want to do
when you grow up?
449
00:30:10,697 --> 00:30:13,097
I want to be a scientist.
450
00:30:13,098 --> 00:30:18,017
Anyone else? I want to enter
the Korean People's Army.
451
00:30:18,018 --> 00:30:19,217
Good.
452
00:30:24,617 --> 00:30:26,576
Very good.
453
00:30:26,577 --> 00:30:29,057
I want to be a famous writer.
454
00:30:29,058 --> 00:30:31,417
You want to be a famous writer?
That's good.
455
00:30:32,577 --> 00:30:35,697
Have you got a poem? Can you
remember a poem that you've written?
456
00:30:36,817 --> 00:30:38,937
Say it in Korean.
457
00:31:21,977 --> 00:31:24,897
Aw!
APPLAUSE
458
00:31:24,898 --> 00:31:29,217
Mount Paektu is a sacred volcano
in North Korea,
459
00:31:29,218 --> 00:31:33,176
which Kim Il-sung allegedly used
as a hideout while plotting against
460
00:31:33,177 --> 00:31:35,297
the Japanese in the 1930s.
461
00:31:37,817 --> 00:31:41,176
It's a beautiful poem, but I get
the distinct impression
462
00:31:41,177 --> 00:31:45,057
that critical thinking is probably
not on the school curriculum.
463
00:31:50,777 --> 00:31:54,376
But excelling at sport
most definitely is.
464
00:31:54,377 --> 00:31:58,016
I'm told by my guides that
Kim Jong-un wants North Korea
465
00:31:58,017 --> 00:32:00,777
to become a sports superpower.
466
00:32:00,778 --> 00:32:04,097
And judging by this lot,
table tennis may be the way to go.
467
00:32:06,577 --> 00:32:10,817
It's like a factory farm
for ping-pong champions.
468
00:32:10,818 --> 00:32:13,497
I was quite impressed, first of all,
they were learning English,
469
00:32:13,498 --> 00:32:17,416
but also, the ideology was there,
underneath everything
470
00:32:17,417 --> 00:32:20,217
but not pushed absolutely
all the time.
471
00:32:20,218 --> 00:32:23,336
And yet, the poem was about
Mount Paektu.
472
00:32:23,337 --> 00:32:26,896
The boy wanted to be a physicist
to do things better for Kim Jong-un.
473
00:32:26,897 --> 00:32:29,737
It's always kind of there,
very much embedded,
474
00:32:29,738 --> 00:32:32,537
that feeling of working together
for one leader.
475
00:32:32,538 --> 00:32:34,737
But it wasn't pushed at me
that hard.
476
00:32:34,738 --> 00:32:36,536
And the ping-pong was
just incredible.
477
00:32:36,537 --> 00:32:39,297
The speed, ferocity
with which they play,
478
00:32:39,298 --> 00:32:42,097
and the determination to be
world beaters.
479
00:32:42,098 --> 00:32:45,456
What I'm learning is that the
sense of unity and togetherness
480
00:32:45,457 --> 00:32:49,336
is incredibly strong here -
if a little disturbing.
481
00:32:49,337 --> 00:32:52,897
After all, this is the land of
mass military parades.
482
00:32:57,737 --> 00:32:58,737
Mm!
483
00:33:00,217 --> 00:33:02,657
Now, that is a really, really
good cup of coffee.
484
00:33:02,658 --> 00:33:05,017
About the best I've had
in Pyongyang.
485
00:33:05,018 --> 00:33:10,576
This rather nice, sort of intimate,
almost Austrian-style cafe.
486
00:33:10,577 --> 00:33:12,176
This all feels rather pleasant.
487
00:33:12,177 --> 00:33:15,617
And yet, it's in quite an
odd location, really.
488
00:33:17,937 --> 00:33:22,097
This intimate little place
is actually right on the corner...
489
00:33:23,737 --> 00:33:27,577
..of Kim Il-sung Square.
490
00:33:30,417 --> 00:33:35,656
A place where those vast processions
of military might,
491
00:33:35,657 --> 00:33:41,017
it all takes place on this amazing,
amazing area here.
492
00:33:42,057 --> 00:33:43,576
You can see,
493
00:33:43,577 --> 00:33:46,257
when they do these enormous ballets
with thousands of people
494
00:33:46,258 --> 00:33:49,977
all doing the same thing at the
same time, there are the dots.
495
00:33:51,217 --> 00:33:53,857
Little positions where people stand.
496
00:33:53,858 --> 00:33:56,617
So you've got somebody here,
doing all that sort of stuff,
497
00:33:56,618 --> 00:33:59,217
and then you've got somebody here
doing all that sort of stuff.
498
00:33:59,218 --> 00:34:01,977
So, you've got to sort it out.
It's incredibly difficult -
499
00:34:01,978 --> 00:34:04,617
when you see it done -
to actually get it done properly
500
00:34:04,618 --> 00:34:06,817
without bashing the person
next to you.
501
00:34:06,818 --> 00:34:10,296
Of course, when the parades come
along, it's along this roadway
502
00:34:10,297 --> 00:34:16,376
that the weapons and the missiles
will come.
503
00:34:16,377 --> 00:34:21,217
It's just so... It's a strange
sensation to walk across it,
504
00:34:21,218 --> 00:34:22,337
and here we are.
505
00:34:24,177 --> 00:34:28,136
At the moment, there's not many
people here - just me at the moment,
506
00:34:28,137 --> 00:34:34,937
doing my own display of synchronised
television presenting.
507
00:34:36,337 --> 00:34:39,177
It's never going to catch on.
It's never going to catch on.
508
00:34:40,377 --> 00:34:44,817
The billboard showing a Korean
soldier is just one of the many
509
00:34:44,818 --> 00:34:49,057
pieces of military propaganda
I've seen in Pyongyang.
510
00:34:49,058 --> 00:34:52,456
Most of it is produced
behind closed doors,
511
00:34:52,457 --> 00:34:54,617
here at the Mansudae Art Studio.
512
00:34:57,417 --> 00:35:01,216
But for the first time we are being
allowed to film one of the country's
513
00:35:01,217 --> 00:35:03,697
leading propaganda artists at work.
514
00:35:06,457 --> 00:35:08,336
Can you tell me what this
515
00:35:08,337 --> 00:35:11,297
painting, what this work is about?
516
00:35:30,697 --> 00:35:35,017
This picture of pan-Korean peace and
unity is very timely,
517
00:35:35,018 --> 00:35:37,217
and might be just for my benefit.
518
00:35:37,218 --> 00:35:40,137
But I think there's more to
propaganda than missiles.
519
00:35:40,138 --> 00:35:43,737
It's another way to keep people
united to the cause.
520
00:35:45,457 --> 00:35:49,937
What is the secret of making a good
propaganda poster?
521
00:36:11,657 --> 00:36:15,817
There are over 1,000 artists here,
producing art for the state.
522
00:36:17,177 --> 00:36:18,576
In this studio,
523
00:36:18,577 --> 00:36:21,897
a painter is working on a canvas
celebrating the fishing industry.
524
00:36:23,377 --> 00:36:27,697
And this man has been responsible
for sculpting the giant statues of
525
00:36:27,698 --> 00:36:29,736
the Great Leaders.
526
00:36:29,737 --> 00:36:33,456
I'm aware everything I'm being shown
is designed to give me
527
00:36:33,457 --> 00:36:36,177
a positive image of North Korea.
528
00:36:36,178 --> 00:36:38,697
But what I'm also realising is just
529
00:36:38,698 --> 00:36:40,977
how tightly everything is
controlled.
530
00:36:40,978 --> 00:36:43,857
There's no internet, no
international phones, no freedom of
531
00:36:43,858 --> 00:36:45,936
the press. The government controls
532
00:36:45,937 --> 00:36:49,057
it all, and there are
no voices of dissent.
533
00:36:50,297 --> 00:36:52,056
And, after a few days,
534
00:36:52,057 --> 00:36:55,616
you start to feel the propaganda
seeping into your soul.
535
00:36:55,617 --> 00:36:56,897
KOREAN POP MUSIC PLAYS
536
00:37:00,097 --> 00:37:04,577
There's so much that is so different
about North Korea that I find the
537
00:37:04,578 --> 00:37:07,896
offer of dinner and a few beers with
my friendly guides refreshingly
538
00:37:07,897 --> 00:37:09,537
familiar.
539
00:37:11,577 --> 00:37:13,937
Have you ever done barbecue before?
540
00:37:13,938 --> 00:37:16,857
No, no, I haven't had Korean
barbecue.
541
00:37:16,858 --> 00:37:19,817
Not like this. It's messy, is it?
542
00:37:19,818 --> 00:37:22,777
Is there going to be a
lot of spray flying?
543
00:37:22,778 --> 00:37:24,697
Yeah, yeah. Oh!
544
00:37:26,537 --> 00:37:29,337
I think actually she's tied me to
the chair!
545
00:37:29,338 --> 00:37:33,017
You look great in it.
Do I? Is it my colour? Oh...
546
00:37:35,617 --> 00:37:39,216
So, this is the raw meat? Yeah.
This is... Raw meat.
547
00:37:39,217 --> 00:37:41,176
Koreans like meat?
548
00:37:41,177 --> 00:37:43,617
We love it. You love meat?
549
00:37:43,618 --> 00:37:46,457
OK, I got the wrong verb, you Love
meat, OK.
550
00:37:46,458 --> 00:37:49,457
You wrap.... Oh, you wrap it up?
OK. OK. Mmmm.
551
00:37:54,897 --> 00:37:59,577
Mmm. How is it? Mmm. It's very, very
good. Mmm!
552
00:37:59,578 --> 00:38:02,017
North Koreans enjoy a drink.
553
00:38:02,018 --> 00:38:06,497
Apparently, each man is given weekly
beer coupons by the state,
554
00:38:06,498 --> 00:38:09,697
which provides them with
five litres of beer a month.
555
00:38:11,417 --> 00:38:16,977
Thank you! In Korean, geonbae.
Geonbae. Geonbae. Geonbae.
556
00:38:20,417 --> 00:38:22,977
It's nice to see the guides relax,
557
00:38:22,978 --> 00:38:26,136
but I'm told tomorrow is the day
I'll really see the North Koreans at
558
00:38:26,137 --> 00:38:27,697
play.
559
00:38:33,237 --> 00:38:37,917
It's my last day in the capital of
North Korea, and it's May Day -
560
00:38:37,918 --> 00:38:40,797
International Worker's Day - and
it's a holiday.
561
00:38:44,797 --> 00:38:48,116
The parks of Pyongyang are filling
up with the city's 3 million
562
00:38:48,117 --> 00:38:49,596
residents.
563
00:38:49,597 --> 00:38:51,396
WHISTLE BLOWS
564
00:38:51,397 --> 00:38:53,517
CHEERING AND CHANTING
565
00:38:58,757 --> 00:39:00,597
WHISTLE BLOWS
566
00:39:06,597 --> 00:39:09,397
The game is, people have to pick up
bits of paper,
567
00:39:09,398 --> 00:39:12,476
and then the bit of paper will tell
them they've got to take something
568
00:39:12,477 --> 00:39:14,917
and run around the ring. It might be
a ball, it might be a hat,
569
00:39:14,918 --> 00:39:17,917
it might be a jacket, it might be a
man, a woman or a child.
570
00:39:17,918 --> 00:39:20,037
And they race around with it.
571
00:39:27,117 --> 00:39:30,196
There's also music and dancing.
572
00:39:30,197 --> 00:39:32,797
UPBEAT MUSIC PLAYS
573
00:39:37,277 --> 00:39:41,116
I suspect this gentleman is a
frustrated Fred Astaire -
574
00:39:41,117 --> 00:39:44,637
office manager by day,
who knows what by night?
575
00:39:58,477 --> 00:40:01,956
May Day seems to be giving me what
I've been hoping for -
576
00:40:01,957 --> 00:40:05,756
an opportunity to mix with ordinary
North Koreans when their guard is
577
00:40:05,757 --> 00:40:07,596
down.
578
00:40:07,597 --> 00:40:09,557
CHEERFUL YELLING
579
00:40:14,557 --> 00:40:16,476
Mmmm, that's good food.
580
00:40:16,477 --> 00:40:18,917
LAUGHTER
581
00:40:21,237 --> 00:40:23,797
KOREAN POP MUSIC PLAYS
582
00:40:32,797 --> 00:40:35,717
And as the day goes on,
so does the dancing...
583
00:40:35,718 --> 00:40:37,717
HE YELLS CHEERFULLY
584
00:40:43,037 --> 00:40:45,197
..and, I suspect, the drinking.
585
00:40:50,557 --> 00:40:54,837
To an inhibited Englishman, a sort
of mass fun day like May Day in
586
00:40:54,838 --> 00:40:57,437
Pyongyang seems, at first,
587
00:40:57,438 --> 00:40:59,637
slightly intimidating.
588
00:40:59,638 --> 00:41:02,437
But actually
you just have to join in.
589
00:41:06,597 --> 00:41:09,277
Everyone's out, and they're all in
the centre of the city.
590
00:41:09,278 --> 00:41:11,276
They don't go out to the
countryside.
591
00:41:11,277 --> 00:41:14,436
And they start with lots of little
parties, then become bigger parties,
592
00:41:14,437 --> 00:41:17,317
and then become these huge
occasions of spontaneous dancing
593
00:41:17,318 --> 00:41:22,077
and a bit of drinking the rice wine
to keep you going.
594
00:41:22,078 --> 00:41:26,477
After a bit, the whole, sort of,
hill is just humming.
595
00:41:28,957 --> 00:41:31,157
Are singing and dancing quite
important?
596
00:41:31,158 --> 00:41:33,116
I mean, everyone seems to have a
song or a dance.
597
00:41:33,117 --> 00:41:35,997
Yeah, every Korean knows how to sing
and dance. Yeah.
598
00:41:35,998 --> 00:41:38,717
Except me, I have a poor voice.
THEY LAUGH
599
00:41:50,797 --> 00:41:52,397
LAUGHTER
600
00:41:53,477 --> 00:41:55,077
Thank you.
601
00:41:59,957 --> 00:42:02,677
These people might live in a
repressive system
602
00:42:02,678 --> 00:42:04,917
that I find hard to understand,
603
00:42:04,918 --> 00:42:08,117
but there is a joy and humanity to
this that's undimmed.
604
00:42:09,437 --> 00:42:12,197
And this goes on all day, you know.
605
00:42:12,198 --> 00:42:15,237
We're only, kind of, well, it's
about 2:30.
606
00:42:15,238 --> 00:42:17,477
What's it going to be like here at
night?
607
00:42:17,478 --> 00:42:22,557
It's going to be, you know... "What
is it going to be like here at
night?" I ask myself. Oh.
608
00:42:22,558 --> 00:42:26,316
Thank you.
CHEERING
609
00:42:26,317 --> 00:42:28,837
Thank you.
610
00:42:31,037 --> 00:42:34,957
Oh, dear. He's being dragged back by
the family.
611
00:42:37,317 --> 00:42:40,037
Well, I'm off to be a tree somewhere
else.
612
00:43:02,997 --> 00:43:07,837
May Day, and my time in Pyongyang
has left me with more questions than
613
00:43:07,838 --> 00:43:09,836
answers.
614
00:43:09,837 --> 00:43:13,196
Much of me wants to take everything
at face value,
615
00:43:13,197 --> 00:43:16,396
to accept the North Korea that I'm
being shown,
616
00:43:16,397 --> 00:43:18,797
but I know there's another side,
617
00:43:18,798 --> 00:43:22,156
and I've seen enough to realise this
is a country with none of the
618
00:43:22,157 --> 00:43:24,757
freedoms we in the West take for
granted.
619
00:43:27,397 --> 00:43:31,797
Maybe I'll learn more outside the
bubble of Pyongyang.
620
00:43:31,798 --> 00:43:35,156
After much negotiation,
I've been given permission to
621
00:43:35,157 --> 00:43:38,197
explore parts of the country that
are normally off-limits to
622
00:43:38,198 --> 00:43:42,957
outsiders. Tomorrow we start a
journey that will take us into
623
00:43:42,958 --> 00:43:44,597
uncharted territory.
624
00:43:50,277 --> 00:43:55,716
'Next time... I come face-to-face
with the North Korean military...'
625
00:43:55,717 --> 00:44:01,516
Warheads and nuclear missiles have
cost your country a lot of money.
626
00:44:01,517 --> 00:44:05,036
'..explore rarely filmed areas of
the country...'
627
00:44:05,037 --> 00:44:09,717
We remember hearing in the West that
you had a very bad shortage of food.
628
00:44:09,718 --> 00:44:13,076
'..and push the guides
to breaking point.'
629
00:44:13,077 --> 00:44:17,917
All right, I'll tell you what I
think. A good leader should be able
to deal with criticism.
630
00:44:17,918 --> 00:44:20,877
And that's where we are so different
from you.
631
00:44:22,957 --> 00:44:25,557
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