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Would you like to inspect the original subtitles? These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:09,508 --> 00:00:14,508 Preklad z anglick�ch titulkov: M. M. 2 00:00:20,309 --> 00:00:24,395 V roku 1953 prebiehal s�boj o v�stup na dovtedy 3 00:00:24,396 --> 00:00:28,396 nezdolan� vrchol najvy��ej hory sveta - Mount Everest. 4 00:00:28,463 --> 00:00:32,449 V tom roku viedol britsk� exped�ciu plukovn�k John Hunt. 5 00:00:32,450 --> 00:00:36,450 Bol to najambici�znej�� pokus hist�rie. 6 00:00:36,501 --> 00:00:45,788 Medzi horolezcami bol aj 33-ro�n� v�el�r z Nov�ho Z�landu - Edmund Hillary. 7 00:00:52,721 --> 00:00:54,430 Dnes s� Himal�je ako... 8 00:00:54,975 --> 00:00:57,268 Dobre, najsk�r sa predstavme. 9 00:00:57,269 --> 00:01:01,896 Ed Hillary, ve�mi zauj�mav� osobnos� v alpskom svete. 10 00:01:01,897 --> 00:01:04,190 - Dobr� r�no, Ed. - Dobr� r�no. 11 00:01:04,191 --> 00:01:06,609 Ko�ko bolo u� na Evereste uskuto�nen�ch pokusov. 12 00:01:06,610 --> 00:01:08,736 Minim�lne desa�. 13 00:01:08,737 --> 00:01:10,613 Pre�o doteraz v�etky zlyhali? 14 00:01:10,614 --> 00:01:13,616 Kv�li nespr�vnej kombin�cii okolnost�. 15 00:01:13,617 --> 00:01:16,035 Mysl�te, �e Everest je mo�n� vyliez�? 16 00:01:16,036 --> 00:01:18,288 �no, rozhodne si mysl�m, �e je to mo�n�. 17 00:01:18,289 --> 00:01:21,207 Ur�ite sa to jedn�ho d�a podar�. 18 00:01:33,470 --> 00:01:38,766 Je tomu 60 rokov, svet bol �plne in�... 19 00:01:38,767 --> 00:01:41,186 a predstava, �e bude� prv�m �lovekom, 20 00:01:41,187 --> 00:01:43,605 �o bude st� na najvy��om bode Zeme. 21 00:01:43,606 --> 00:01:48,443 T��ba... romantick� t��ba. 22 00:02:00,080 --> 00:02:03,208 O v�stup na najvy��� vrch sa viedol ozajstn� s�boj. 23 00:02:03,209 --> 00:02:05,001 Nielen Brit�nia, 24 00:02:05,002 --> 00:02:07,086 aj in� n�rody st�li v z�stupe. 25 00:02:07,087 --> 00:02:12,342 Pre Brit�niu to bola fakticky posledn� �anca urva� t�to ve�k� cenu. 26 00:02:22,311 --> 00:02:26,731 Nikto neveel, �i je mo�n� pre�i� v 8850-tich metroch. 27 00:02:26,815 --> 00:02:32,362 Akoby �li chalani prekro�i� hranice vesm�ru... 28 00:02:33,614 --> 00:02:38,284 dosiahnu� fyziologick� limit, �o m��e �udsk� organizmus znies�. 29 00:02:38,285 --> 00:02:40,161 Som presved�en�, �e nechceli zomrie�, 30 00:02:40,162 --> 00:02:45,250 ale boli ochotn� riskova� tam, kde smr� je jedn�m z v�sledkov. 31 00:02:53,008 --> 00:02:56,302 Idete do nezn�ma. 32 00:02:56,387 --> 00:02:58,513 D� sa to v�bec dok�za�? 33 00:02:58,514 --> 00:03:03,977 V roku 1953 to bola ot�zka s ve�k�m ot�znikom. 34 00:03:12,319 --> 00:03:16,406 Mysl�m, �e to bola ot�zka v�zvy... 35 00:03:17,324 --> 00:03:20,660 ani nie tak k hore samej, 36 00:03:20,661 --> 00:03:23,705 ako k sebe sam�mu... 37 00:03:23,706 --> 00:03:28,626 dok�za� prem�c� vlastn� strach 38 00:03:28,627 --> 00:03:32,297 a d�fa�, �e sa nakoniec dostanete na vrchol. 39 00:03:52,298 --> 00:03:57,384 ZA HRANU 40 00:03:57,823 --> 00:04:01,159 CESTOU K EVERESTU 41 00:04:01,202 --> 00:04:03,077 �lenovia britskej exped�cie na Everest 42 00:04:03,078 --> 00:04:05,038 sa za�ali sch�dza� na subkontinente, 43 00:04:05,039 --> 00:04:06,789 kde z�stupca ved�ceho v�pravy, major Wylie, 44 00:04:06,790 --> 00:04:09,083 t��obne o�ak�va nadch�dzaj�ce dobrodru�stvo. 45 00:04:09,084 --> 00:04:11,377 Sme ve�mi radi, �e prv� etapa 46 00:04:11,378 --> 00:04:14,214 na�ej cesty pod Mount Everest je za nami. 47 00:04:14,215 --> 00:04:16,758 M��eme vyrazi� do h�r. 48 00:04:16,759 --> 00:04:19,552 Ak ku koncu m�ja natraf�me na dobr� po�asie 49 00:04:19,553 --> 00:04:21,554 pred pr�chodom monz�nu, 50 00:04:21,555 --> 00:04:24,224 mali by sme ma� �ancu dosta� sa na vrchol. 51 00:04:43,273 --> 00:04:44,860 BRITSK� VE�VYSLANECTVO 52 00:04:57,466 --> 00:05:00,176 K exped�cii som sa pripojil 53 00:05:00,177 --> 00:05:04,013 na Britskom ve�vyslanectve v K�thmandu. 54 00:05:04,098 --> 00:05:08,560 Exped�cia mala 13 �lenov zo z�padu. 55 00:05:08,561 --> 00:05:13,481 John Hunt, vysl��il� arm�dny d�stojn�k, bol ved�cim exped�cie. 56 00:05:13,524 --> 00:05:15,650 Nikdy som o �om nepo�ul, 57 00:05:15,651 --> 00:05:19,571 a� k�m som ho prv�kr�t nestretol vtedy v K�thmandu. 58 00:05:19,655 --> 00:05:23,032 Preferoval som �ud�, ktor�ch som poznal u� predt�m, 59 00:05:23,033 --> 00:05:25,910 preto bol Ed u m�a ve�k� nezn�ma. 60 00:05:25,911 --> 00:05:28,413 M��em ale poveda�, �e od prv�ho momentu, ke� som ho zbadal, 61 00:05:28,414 --> 00:05:31,958 som vedel, �e je tu niekto s dominantnou autoritou. 62 00:05:31,959 --> 00:05:36,129 Vy�nieval nad v�etk�mi. 63 00:05:36,839 --> 00:05:39,048 P�n Hillary, pre zauj�mavos�... 64 00:05:39,049 --> 00:05:40,967 ako dlho sa venujete lezectvu? 65 00:05:40,968 --> 00:05:42,719 Lezectvu sa venujem... mysl�m... 66 00:05:42,720 --> 00:05:44,929 zhruba 10 rokov. 67 00:05:44,930 --> 00:05:47,724 Ko�ko v�stupov mimo Nov�ho Z�landu u� m�te za sebou? 68 00:05:47,725 --> 00:05:52,145 Bol som na nieko�k�ch exped�ciach v Himal�jach. 69 00:05:54,398 --> 00:05:57,442 Vychovan� ste boli dos� striktne, je tak? 70 00:05:57,443 --> 00:05:59,861 Vyrastal som po�as kr�zy. 71 00:05:59,862 --> 00:06:05,909 V tom obdob� finan�ne na tom moja rodina nebola pr�li� dobre. 72 00:06:06,869 --> 00:06:10,079 Bol som oby�ajn� vidiecky chlapec. 73 00:06:10,080 --> 00:06:12,123 - V�el�r. - V�el�r. 74 00:06:12,124 --> 00:06:16,586 Bl�dil som okolo na�ej farmy, sn�vaj�c o ve�k�ch dobrodru�stv�ch, 75 00:06:16,587 --> 00:06:20,548 v�stupoch v hor�ch a pod. 76 00:06:21,425 --> 00:06:23,218 Ak� kontrast medzi 77 00:06:23,219 --> 00:06:25,094 v�el�rstvom na jednej strane a lezen�m na druhej. 78 00:06:25,095 --> 00:06:26,679 Ani nie... 79 00:06:26,680 --> 00:06:28,306 Ako v�el�r som sa neust�le 80 00:06:28,307 --> 00:06:31,392 to�il okolo 35 kg boxov medu. 81 00:06:31,393 --> 00:06:34,646 Aj m�j brat bol v�el�r. Medzi sebou sme s��a�ili. 82 00:06:34,647 --> 00:06:36,731 Mysl�m, �e zmysel s��a�e 83 00:06:36,732 --> 00:06:40,985 mal vplyv na moje horolezeck� aktivity. 84 00:06:48,244 --> 00:06:54,123 Cel� t�m sa vyformoval v K�thmandu. 85 00:06:54,625 --> 00:06:57,836 �akalo n�s 17 dn� pochodu do Tengbo�e, 86 00:06:57,837 --> 00:07:01,589 ktor� sa malo sta� na�im prv�m z�kladn�m t�borom. 87 00:07:04,218 --> 00:07:06,469 Postupne sme museli prejs� 88 00:07:06,470 --> 00:07:08,596 vysok� hrebene a hlbok� �dolia. 89 00:07:08,597 --> 00:07:10,473 Postupne sme si zlep�ovali kond�ciu 90 00:07:10,474 --> 00:07:16,104 a �o je najd�le�itej�ie, upev�ovali sa ako t�m. 91 00:07:26,448 --> 00:07:29,450 V�etko bolo premyslen� do najmen�ieho detailu. 92 00:07:29,451 --> 00:07:32,370 7,5 tony materi�lu, 93 00:07:32,371 --> 00:07:35,748 443 debien, v�etky o��slovan�, 94 00:07:35,749 --> 00:07:41,379 s obsahom, zap�san�m do poslednej z�palkovej krabi�ky, alebo ihly. 95 00:07:43,674 --> 00:07:45,550 Je to t�mov� exped�cia. 96 00:07:45,551 --> 00:07:49,387 Ve�mi ve�a z�vis� na forme pyram�dov�ho �silia. 97 00:07:49,471 --> 00:07:53,474 13 �lenov exped�cie zo z�padu, 98 00:07:53,559 --> 00:07:56,060 30 st�lych v��kov�ch �erpov. 99 00:07:56,061 --> 00:08:00,023 T� sa bud� stara� o vyn�ku na�ej v�bavy do vy���ch nadmorsk�ch v��ok. 100 00:08:00,024 --> 00:08:02,984 �al��ch 600 nep�lskych nosi�ov 101 00:08:02,985 --> 00:08:07,572 prepravuje n�klady z celej krajiny do na�ich lezeck�ch oblast�. 102 00:08:11,744 --> 00:08:13,536 Ke�e na hore u� prebehlo 103 00:08:13,537 --> 00:08:16,080 sedem britsk�ch pokusov o v�stup, 104 00:08:16,081 --> 00:08:19,792 c�tili sme, �e ako prv� na vrchole maj� pr�vo by� lezci z Brit�nie, 105 00:08:19,793 --> 00:08:22,045 alebo z britsk�ho Commonwealthu. 106 00:08:22,046 --> 00:08:26,549 �vaj�iari sa takmer dostali na vrchol v roku 1952, 107 00:08:26,550 --> 00:08:28,885 Ameri�ania �akali na svoju pr�le�itos�. 108 00:08:28,886 --> 00:08:31,304 A tak tu bol obrovsk� tlak na Johna Hunta 109 00:08:31,305 --> 00:08:38,144 s kolos�lnym o�ak�van�m, �e v tejto �lohe uspeje. 110 00:08:42,107 --> 00:08:44,234 P�n Hillary, ko�ko Novoz�lan�anov 111 00:08:44,235 --> 00:08:46,027 je v tohtoro�nej exped�cii? 112 00:08:46,028 --> 00:08:50,615 Iba dvaja... George Lowe a ja. 113 00:08:50,699 --> 00:08:52,784 George Lowe a m�j otec boli ve�k� priatelia. 114 00:08:52,785 --> 00:08:56,204 �asto liezci v Ju�n�ch Alp�ch na Novom Z�lande. 115 00:08:56,205 --> 00:08:58,414 Spolu tvorili v�born� lezeck� dvojicu, 116 00:08:58,415 --> 00:09:02,418 ve�mi dobre si rozumeli. 117 00:09:07,466 --> 00:09:10,552 Po�as 18-d�ov�ho putovania 118 00:09:10,553 --> 00:09:13,680 sme spozn�vali jeden druh�ho. 119 00:09:13,681 --> 00:09:16,224 Neust�le sme pritom po��vali mierne nar�ky 120 00:09:16,225 --> 00:09:19,519 na Novoz�lan�anov. 121 00:09:19,979 --> 00:09:23,898 S Edom sme boli absolventi be�nej strednej �koly, 122 00:09:23,899 --> 00:09:26,734 zato v��ina z nich, pravda�e, 123 00:09:26,735 --> 00:09:30,363 vychodila verejn� �koly. 124 00:09:32,491 --> 00:09:36,911 Nebolo poch�b, �e sme poch�dzali z rozli�n�ch vrstiev. 125 00:09:47,923 --> 00:09:49,674 K�thmandu le�� iba 126 00:09:49,675 --> 00:09:52,802 zhruba 1200 metrov nad morom, 127 00:09:52,845 --> 00:09:57,015 �p�tie Everestu zhruba 5500 metrov nad morom. 128 00:09:57,391 --> 00:09:59,684 N� 17-d�ov� pribli�ovac� pochod 129 00:09:59,685 --> 00:10:02,145 bol neoddelite�nou s��as�ou m�jho pl�nu 130 00:10:02,146 --> 00:10:05,023 aklimatiz�cie. 131 00:10:06,192 --> 00:10:08,985 Cel� �as to bol z�vod s �asom, 132 00:10:08,986 --> 00:10:12,697 neust�ly strach pred pr�chodom monz�nu. 133 00:10:12,698 --> 00:10:14,449 Preto John Hunt povedal: 134 00:10:14,450 --> 00:10:19,329 "Chceme by� v poz�cii vyst�pi� na Everest 15. m�ja." 135 00:10:19,330 --> 00:10:23,583 Nesk�r v m�ji sa neust�le zv��uje mo�nos� pr�chodu monz�nu. 136 00:10:23,584 --> 00:10:26,878 V�dy je to z�vod s �asom. 137 00:10:30,508 --> 00:10:35,011 ��m sme vystupovali vy��ie, t�m sa zvy�ovalo aj na�e vzru�enie. 138 00:10:35,012 --> 00:10:40,058 Ukazovali sa n�m st�le vy��ie a vy��ie �t�ty. 139 00:10:40,434 --> 00:10:46,022 A nad t�m sa t��il vrchol pyram�dy Everestu, 140 00:10:46,023 --> 00:10:48,900 iba 20 m�� vzdialen�, 141 00:10:48,901 --> 00:10:52,445 ale st�le 5500 metrov nad nami. 142 00:10:52,446 --> 00:10:55,823 P�n Hillary, liez� ste za�ali na Novom Z�lande, je tak? 143 00:10:55,824 --> 00:10:57,742 �no, na Novom Z�lande. 144 00:11:04,792 --> 00:11:07,502 A tu je Mount Cook - "Napichova� mrakov", 145 00:11:07,503 --> 00:11:11,297 majest�tne sa k oblohe vyp�naj�ci do v��ky 3724 metrov. 146 00:11:11,298 --> 00:11:13,174 S kamar�tom sme sa dohodli 147 00:11:13,175 --> 00:11:16,302 spravi� kr�tku t�ru k Mount Cooku. 148 00:11:16,428 --> 00:11:22,267 ��m sme boli bli��ie, t�m v���m dojmom na m�a hory p�sobili. 149 00:11:22,268 --> 00:11:24,143 Tieto rozoklan� vrcholy 150 00:11:24,144 --> 00:11:28,982 poskytuj� skuto�n�m alpinistom jedny z najlep��ch lezen� mimo Eur�py. 151 00:11:29,733 --> 00:11:33,653 V t� noc pri�li do hotela "Hermitage", kde som zostal, 152 00:11:33,654 --> 00:11:35,446 dvaja mlad� mu�i. 153 00:11:35,447 --> 00:11:41,244 V okol� som po�ul �epot: "Pr�ve zdolali Mount Cook." 154 00:11:41,245 --> 00:11:44,372 T�to chalani boli ozaj "�iv�". 155 00:11:44,373 --> 00:11:47,834 Pomyslel som si: "Ak� bezn�dejn� �ivot �ijem," 156 00:11:47,835 --> 00:11:53,298 "�iadne ve�k� dobrodru�stv�, ni� obzvl᚝ vzru�uj�ce." 157 00:11:56,051 --> 00:12:02,015 Vtedy som sa rozhodol, �e sa budem trvalo venova� horolezectvu. 158 00:12:09,690 --> 00:12:11,941 Po 17-tich d�och 159 00:12:11,942 --> 00:12:18,573 dorazila na�a "karav�na" ku kl�toru Tengbo�e vo v��ke 3867 metrov. 160 00:12:22,244 --> 00:12:24,579 Akon�hle dosiahli kl�tor Tengbo�e, 161 00:12:24,580 --> 00:12:27,874 dos� sa ochladilo. 162 00:12:29,335 --> 00:12:32,962 Nosi�i z n�in, ktor� mali odet� preva�ne iba bavlnen� oble�enie, 163 00:12:32,963 --> 00:12:36,090 dostali v�platu a vr�tili sa do ich ded�n. 164 00:12:36,091 --> 00:12:40,512 Ich pr�cu prevzali �erpsk� nosi�i. 165 00:12:41,347 --> 00:12:43,598 �erpovia, �o zostali na exped�cii, 166 00:12:43,599 --> 00:12:46,392 ak aj mali predch�dzaj�ce sk�senosti s lezen�m, 167 00:12:46,393 --> 00:12:48,937 zaiste neboli pr�li� ve�k�. 168 00:12:48,938 --> 00:12:51,105 Tenzing bol v�nimkou, 169 00:12:51,106 --> 00:12:53,441 ten mal v tomto pomerne ve�k� sk�senosti. 170 00:12:53,442 --> 00:12:55,485 V skuto�nosti mal viac sk�senost� 171 00:12:55,486 --> 00:12:58,947 s lezen�m na Mount Evereste, ne� ktoko�vek in�. 172 00:13:02,034 --> 00:13:04,786 Bez �erpov Everest nevylezie�. 173 00:13:04,787 --> 00:13:07,497 M�j otec bol ich vodcom. 174 00:13:09,792 --> 00:13:11,584 �udia ho re�pektovali. 175 00:13:11,585 --> 00:13:17,632 Vedeli, �e na Everest chodieval s cudzincami u� od roku 1935. 176 00:13:17,758 --> 00:13:21,427 Hore bol u� �es�kr�t. 177 00:13:22,638 --> 00:13:25,098 Poznal som ch�ry o Tenzingovi. 178 00:13:25,099 --> 00:13:27,600 V horolezectve dosiahol ve�a 179 00:13:27,601 --> 00:13:30,645 a vedel som, �e bol ve�mi cenen�. 180 00:13:30,646 --> 00:13:34,732 Ale nebol som schopn� s n�m dobre komunikova�. 181 00:13:34,733 --> 00:13:40,864 Jeho angli�tina bola na n�zkej �rovni, rovnako ako moja nep�l�ina. 182 00:13:40,948 --> 00:13:46,828 Mal trblietaj�ci sa �smev... nesmierne o�aruj�ci �smev. 183 00:13:48,289 --> 00:13:52,292 Bolo nemo�n� nema� ho r�d. 184 00:13:55,212 --> 00:13:58,256 �al��ch 14 dn� sme mali obdobie v�cviku. 185 00:13:58,257 --> 00:14:03,303 Testovali sme sa spolo�ne s na�im zariaden�m na nadmorsk� v��ky. 186 00:14:03,846 --> 00:14:07,015 V roku 1953 bolo dosiahnutie vrcholu Everestu 187 00:14:07,016 --> 00:14:12,729 po fyzickej str�nke ve�kou nezn�mou. 188 00:14:13,564 --> 00:14:17,984 Bolo to, akoby ste poslali niekoho do vesm�ru. 189 00:14:20,529 --> 00:14:23,698 Z v��kov�ch experimentov v komor�ch bolo zn�me, 190 00:14:23,699 --> 00:14:25,575 �e nadmorsk� v��ka ti m��e v�ne po�kodi� zdravie. 191 00:14:25,576 --> 00:14:29,078 Jedna z t�z bola, �e �udia m��u dosta� krv�canie do mozgu, 192 00:14:29,079 --> 00:14:32,874 preto�e sa im pr�li� roz��ria cievy. 193 00:14:33,083 --> 00:14:38,379 Ve�a d�vodov d�valo predpoklad, �e m��e nasta� m�tvica. 194 00:14:39,924 --> 00:14:44,093 Nikto nevedel, �i to je v�bec mo�n� pre�i�. 195 00:14:51,560 --> 00:14:55,563 Ke� Ed mieril na horu v roku 1953, 196 00:14:55,564 --> 00:14:59,192 hora si u� predt�m vy�iadala 13 obet�. 197 00:14:59,193 --> 00:15:02,445 Mysl�m, �e pre ka�d�ho, �o tam liezol v tom �ase, 198 00:15:02,446 --> 00:15:05,698 to bola sk�u�uj�ca �tatistika. 199 00:15:05,699 --> 00:15:09,912 13 obet� a 0 vrcholov. 200 00:15:09,913 --> 00:15:11,913 5. j�n 1921 zahynul �k�tsky b�date� Kellas 201 00:15:11,914 --> 00:15:13,414 7. j�n 1922 sedem m�tvych v lav�ne 202 00:15:13,415 --> 00:15:15,415 17. m�j 1924 smr� �erpu na krv�canie do mozgu 203 00:15:15,414 --> 00:15:17,414 7. j�n 1924 Mallory a Irvine zostali nezvestn� 204 00:15:17,415 --> 00:15:20,415 9. j�n 1924 - dvaja lezci zostali nezvestn� v d�sledku zimy 205 00:15:20,415 --> 00:15:23,415 31. m�j 1934 Wilson zomrel v d�sledku zimy 206 00:15:23,416 --> 00:15:26,416 31. okt�ber 1952 na hore zahynul �erpa 207 00:15:35,020 --> 00:15:37,272 Teraz, asi 6 m�� od Tengbo�e, 208 00:15:37,273 --> 00:15:39,357 pri poh�ade na sever vidie� �adovec Khumbu. 209 00:15:39,358 --> 00:15:41,568 Tu sme na�li miesto pre n� hlavn� z�kladn� t�bor, 210 00:15:41,569 --> 00:15:44,779 odkia� sme mali zah�ji� �tok na vrchol. 211 00:15:50,369 --> 00:15:54,122 Tento �adovec bola �al�ia na�a ve�k� prek�ka. 212 00:15:54,123 --> 00:15:57,500 Poslal som skupinu, aby ho presk�mala. 213 00:15:57,710 --> 00:16:01,171 Ed Hillary viedol t�to prv� skupinu. 214 00:16:13,184 --> 00:16:17,103 Z�padn� kotol je str�en� ve�k�m �adop�dom. 215 00:16:21,233 --> 00:16:27,280 Je to 750 metrov vysok� masa �adu, tvoriaca �adop�d Khumbu. 216 00:16:28,949 --> 00:16:30,909 Najsk�r sme museli zisti�, 217 00:16:30,910 --> 00:16:33,953 �i je mo�n� prejs� cez tento �adop�d. 218 00:16:37,541 --> 00:16:39,959 �adop�d bola neust�la hrozba. 219 00:16:39,960 --> 00:16:43,171 Nemali sme in� mo�nos�, iba spravi� cestu krajinou, 220 00:16:43,172 --> 00:16:48,218 neospravedlnite�nou v be�nom alpskom lezen�. 221 00:16:52,264 --> 00:16:57,018 Je to ako zmrznut� vodop�d. 222 00:16:57,853 --> 00:17:01,231 Cel� v�ha �adovca sa neust�le tla�� dole. 223 00:17:01,232 --> 00:17:04,692 Je to sple� �adov�ch blokov. 224 00:17:06,278 --> 00:17:10,740 Nestabiln� re�lne nebezpe�enstvo, 225 00:17:10,741 --> 00:17:13,868 nad ktor�m nem� �iadnu kontrolu. 226 00:17:17,039 --> 00:17:23,294 �ialenstvo! Bo�e m�j, �s� takouto cestou je hl�pos�. 227 00:17:23,587 --> 00:17:28,967 Ale inou cestou proste nem��e� �s�! 228 00:17:33,639 --> 00:17:37,225 Ke� �vaj�iari v roku 1952 vyst�pili hore �adop�dom, 229 00:17:37,226 --> 00:17:41,396 povedali: "T�to vec je v neust�lom pohybe." 230 00:17:43,107 --> 00:17:46,901 Z tohto d�vodu je to nebezpe�n� miesto. 231 00:17:46,902 --> 00:17:52,282 V �adop�de zahynulo viac �ud�, ne� kdeko�vek inde na Evereste. 232 00:18:01,041 --> 00:18:05,253 Je to tu nepreh�adn�, 750 metrov vysok�... 233 00:18:05,254 --> 00:18:09,924 a my sme mali �s� hore priamo stredom toho. 234 00:18:14,597 --> 00:18:17,765 Ed Hillary, George Lowe, Mike Westmacott a ja 235 00:18:17,766 --> 00:18:20,894 sme boli vybran� na vyt��enie prvej cesty. 236 00:18:20,895 --> 00:18:24,439 Za t��de�, alebo aspo� 5 dn�, ak budeme vl�da�, 237 00:18:24,773 --> 00:18:27,358 kv�li bezpe�nosti 238 00:18:27,359 --> 00:18:29,736 treba vykopa� ve�a stupov a natiahnu� mno�stvo fixn�ch l�n, 239 00:18:29,737 --> 00:18:32,572 aby bolo eventu�lne mo�n� zabezpe�i� 240 00:18:32,573 --> 00:18:38,703 nosi�om �o najbezpe�nej�� prechod. 241 00:18:58,599 --> 00:19:00,558 �adop�d bolo nebezpe�n� miesto, 242 00:19:00,559 --> 00:19:03,186 preto�e �adov� bloky padali bez varovania. 243 00:19:03,187 --> 00:19:07,857 Ak ste boli pr�ve na ceste, bola to prek�rna vec. 244 00:19:28,712 --> 00:19:30,880 Tieto �adov� ve�e, 245 00:19:30,881 --> 00:19:33,842 ve�k� kusy a p�sy �adu ve�kosti nieko�k�ch domov, 246 00:19:33,843 --> 00:19:37,846 sa mohli v ka�dom momente zr�ti�. 247 00:19:40,766 --> 00:19:45,395 Mnoh�m nebezpe�n�m �sekom sme dali men�. 248 00:19:46,188 --> 00:19:48,439 Boli tam Mikeov Horror, Hillaryho Horror, 249 00:19:48,440 --> 00:19:54,737 �sek nazvan� "Drvi� orechov", "�zemie at�movej bomby"... 250 00:19:57,575 --> 00:19:59,284 Existuj� ur�it�... 251 00:19:59,285 --> 00:20:01,035 ako horolezci hovoria... objekt�vne nebezpe�enstv�, 252 00:20:01,036 --> 00:20:04,330 ktor� v podstate nem��ete ve�mi eliminova�. 253 00:20:05,624 --> 00:20:09,794 Je tu tie� riziko p�du do trhliny. 254 00:20:10,588 --> 00:20:14,299 Mali sme asi dvojmetrov� hlin�kov� rebr�ky, 255 00:20:14,300 --> 00:20:18,720 ktor� sme sp�jali dokopy a takto pou�ili pri prechode cez trhliny. 256 00:20:25,728 --> 00:20:27,520 Bolo tam ve�a trhl�n, 257 00:20:27,521 --> 00:20:31,357 tak�e n�m �oskoro do�li v�etky rebr�ky. 258 00:20:32,109 --> 00:20:35,111 Preto sme museli posla� �ud� k najbli���m stromom, 259 00:20:35,112 --> 00:20:37,155 �o bolo asi tri dni cesty dole, 260 00:20:37,156 --> 00:20:43,119 po brvn� na zhotovenie dreven�ch most�kov. 261 00:20:48,751 --> 00:20:52,420 Balansoval si na nich, ako sa len dalo. 262 00:21:04,892 --> 00:21:10,438 Bolo n�m jasn�, �e inak sa na Everest nedostaneme. 263 00:21:13,776 --> 00:21:16,319 Ed Hillary by bol ve�mi r�d, 264 00:21:16,320 --> 00:21:18,696 ak by mohol by� vo vrcholovom t�me. 265 00:21:18,697 --> 00:21:21,366 Dobre vedel, �e iba nieko�k� 266 00:21:21,367 --> 00:21:23,493 dostan� �ancu �s� na vrchol. 267 00:21:23,494 --> 00:21:26,329 Preto ��msk�r chcel zap�sobi� na Johna Hunta 268 00:21:26,330 --> 00:21:29,374 a c�til, �e je �as zatla�i� na neho 269 00:21:29,375 --> 00:21:33,211 po zoznamovac�ch cest�ch po �adop�de, aby sa na to pripravil. 270 00:21:43,681 --> 00:21:46,266 M�j otec sa nikdy tvrdej pr�ce neb�l, 271 00:21:46,267 --> 00:21:49,519 i ke� niekedy to bolo ne�nosn�. Mysl�m, �e otec c�til 272 00:21:49,520 --> 00:21:55,191 ve�k� psychologick� a emocion�lne nedostatky. 273 00:21:56,944 --> 00:21:59,946 Bol vychov�van� s ve�k�m o�ak�van�m. 274 00:21:59,947 --> 00:22:02,323 Na gymn�zium v Aucklande ho poslali 275 00:22:02,324 --> 00:22:05,577 o dva roky sk�r. 276 00:22:05,703 --> 00:22:08,496 Mal som iba 11 rokov 277 00:22:08,497 --> 00:22:12,250 a bol som ozaj dos� vydesen�. 278 00:22:12,376 --> 00:22:14,252 V �ase obeda 279 00:22:14,253 --> 00:22:16,337 som chodieval von zo �koly zadn�mi dverami, 280 00:22:16,338 --> 00:22:20,842 kde bolo mno�stvo mravcov. 281 00:22:20,926 --> 00:22:23,469 Zo za�iatku na gymn�ziu v Aucklande 282 00:22:23,470 --> 00:22:27,974 boli jedin�mi mojimi priate�mi mravce. 283 00:22:31,020 --> 00:22:36,399 Bol som rojko, k�m som neza�al liez�. 284 00:22:44,783 --> 00:22:48,536 �adop�d bol jeden ve�k� labyrint. 285 00:22:48,537 --> 00:22:50,371 Napriek tomu boli n�ten� h�ada� tadia� cestu. 286 00:22:50,372 --> 00:22:55,585 T�to �loha prin�le�ala Edovi. Bola to mimoriadne dobr� z�bava. 287 00:22:57,379 --> 00:22:59,005 Novoz�lan�ania 288 00:22:59,006 --> 00:23:01,549 mali ove�a viac sk�senost� s lezen�m v snehu a �ade, 289 00:23:01,550 --> 00:23:04,260 ne� priemern� eur�psky lezec, 290 00:23:04,261 --> 00:23:08,056 preto�e ich pohoria s� akoby tak� miniat�rne Himal�je. 291 00:23:09,557 --> 00:23:12,843 KR�SY NOV�HO Z�LANDU 292 00:23:14,730 --> 00:23:16,940 Ju�n� Alpy - 293 00:23:16,941 --> 00:23:19,275 rozsiahla sple� h�r, rozliehaj�ca sa na sever 294 00:23:19,276 --> 00:23:23,613 v takmer nepreru�enom re�azci sk�l a �adu. 295 00:23:30,746 --> 00:23:32,622 Ed, dok�ete porovna� Ju�n� Alpy 296 00:23:32,623 --> 00:23:34,249 so �vaj�iarskymi Alpami? 297 00:23:34,250 --> 00:23:36,125 V nich sa zdokona�uj� anglick� lezci. 298 00:23:36,126 --> 00:23:38,336 Tu, na Novom Z�lande s na�im ��asn�m za�adnen�m 299 00:23:38,337 --> 00:23:41,089 sa zv��a lezie v snehu a �ade. 300 00:23:41,090 --> 00:23:43,132 V mnohom s� cesty podobn� himal�jskym. 301 00:23:43,133 --> 00:23:45,009 Od �vaj�iarskych �lp sa dos� odli�uj�, 302 00:23:45,010 --> 00:23:47,971 tam prevl�da lezenie v skal�ch. 303 00:23:47,972 --> 00:23:51,432 Mount Aspiring - novoz�landsk� Matterhorn - 304 00:23:51,433 --> 00:23:53,893 "�ralo�� zub", ktor�ho strm� zr�zy 305 00:23:53,894 --> 00:23:56,229 vy�aduj� zru�nos� a opatrnos� v lezen�. 306 00:23:56,230 --> 00:23:57,856 Na�e novoz�landsk� hory 307 00:23:57,857 --> 00:24:00,900 s� ozaj skvel�m tr�ningov�m prostred�m pre Himal�je. 308 00:24:03,112 --> 00:24:06,948 "Kiwis" s� ve�mi odoln�, 309 00:24:06,949 --> 00:24:09,159 preto si mysl�m, �e mlad� britsk� lezci 310 00:24:09,160 --> 00:24:10,869 zostali trocha v ��ase, 311 00:24:10,870 --> 00:24:17,292 ke� im pridelili do t�mu pr�ve t�chto impozantn�ch "Kiwis". 312 00:24:24,466 --> 00:24:26,259 No, nastala �al�ia ve�k� pochybnos� 313 00:24:26,260 --> 00:24:28,761 na hrane kotla 314 00:24:28,762 --> 00:24:31,639 na vrchole �adop�du. 315 00:24:31,724 --> 00:24:36,895 V�imnite si t�to rozsiahlu trhlinu. 316 00:24:38,189 --> 00:24:41,649 Dostaneme sa cez �u do kotla? 317 00:24:46,155 --> 00:24:48,323 Rozhodnutie, kto p�jde 318 00:24:48,324 --> 00:24:50,116 na vrchol 319 00:24:50,117 --> 00:24:54,037 bolo z ve�kej miery v�sadou vodcu. 320 00:25:00,127 --> 00:25:03,213 John Hunt mal prerozdeli� t�m 321 00:25:03,214 --> 00:25:06,508 pre �al�� priebeh exped�cie. 322 00:25:10,763 --> 00:25:12,472 Nastalo ve�k� mno�stvo 323 00:25:12,473 --> 00:25:15,391 p�zovan� a predv�dzania sa, 324 00:25:15,392 --> 00:25:19,103 ke� sa �udia chceli uk�za� v �o najlep�om svetle 325 00:25:19,104 --> 00:25:22,232 kv�li takejto pr�le�itosti. 326 00:25:27,404 --> 00:25:29,197 Mysl�m, �e medzi Britmi 327 00:25:29,198 --> 00:25:31,282 nebolo a� tak� �silie o t�to poz�ciu. 328 00:25:31,283 --> 00:25:35,119 Mysl�m, �e na�i Novoz�lan�ania, Hillary a Lowe, 329 00:25:35,120 --> 00:25:36,788 boli mo�no trocha viac priamo�iarej�� 330 00:25:36,789 --> 00:25:40,083 v chcen� dosta� sa �o najvy��ie. 331 00:25:50,511 --> 00:25:53,638 Chceli sa silou-mocou presadi�, 332 00:25:53,639 --> 00:25:56,057 k�m my sme boli mo�no trocha viac ustr�chan� - 333 00:25:56,058 --> 00:25:59,394 verejn� �kola n�s nen�tila razi� si cestu vpred, 334 00:25:59,395 --> 00:26:03,147 k�m Hunt nepovie: "Ty si chlap�k, chop sa toho!" 335 00:26:03,190 --> 00:26:07,026 Neust�le som d�fal, �e George Lowe a ja 336 00:26:07,027 --> 00:26:10,113 budeme tvori� vrcholov� dvojicu, 337 00:26:10,114 --> 00:26:13,533 ale nebola doba na to, �eby n� vodca John Hunt 338 00:26:13,534 --> 00:26:19,164 chcel ma� na vrchole Mount Everestu dvoch Novoz�lan�anov. 339 00:26:19,165 --> 00:26:21,875 Preto som sa mal poobzera� po niekom, 340 00:26:21,876 --> 00:26:27,088 kto by bol schopn� nahradi� ma a odvies� kvalitn� pr�cu. 341 00:26:27,173 --> 00:26:31,009 Tenzing bol t� osoba. 342 00:26:36,265 --> 00:26:40,685 �iaden �lovek nemal viac sk�senost� z Everestu. 343 00:26:42,521 --> 00:26:45,064 Dobre ch�pal hodnotu tohto v�stupu 344 00:26:45,065 --> 00:26:48,735 a ako mu mohol zmeni� �ivot. 345 00:26:48,986 --> 00:26:51,738 Tenzing bol ve�mi chudobn�. 346 00:26:51,739 --> 00:26:53,948 Tvrdo pracoval. 347 00:26:53,949 --> 00:26:56,868 Chcel, aby sa jeho deti dostali do dobr�ch �k�l. 348 00:26:56,869 --> 00:27:00,413 Chcel, aby sa mali lep�ie ako on. 349 00:27:00,414 --> 00:27:05,168 Tenzing vedel, �o znamen� zdola� Everest. 350 00:27:08,589 --> 00:27:12,884 M�j otec sa trocha l�il od in�ch �erpov, 351 00:27:12,885 --> 00:27:17,347 preto�e v�dy t��il zdola� Everest. 352 00:27:19,350 --> 00:27:23,228 Pre chudodn� die�a z Tibetu to bolo ve�mi nezvy�ajn�. 353 00:27:23,229 --> 00:27:28,024 Mnoh� in� �erpovia liezli iba kv�li z�robku na �ivobytie, 354 00:27:28,025 --> 00:27:29,984 k�m on bol lezec od srdca. 355 00:27:29,985 --> 00:27:35,865 Dopredu ho hnal vrchol, rovnako ako Edmunda Hillaryho. 356 00:27:40,871 --> 00:27:44,666 Ako sme kr��ali �alej kotlom, trhl�m ub�dalo. 357 00:27:44,667 --> 00:27:48,920 Uvedomili sme si, �e je pre n�s otvoren�. 358 00:28:09,942 --> 00:28:12,151 Zhroma�dili sme sa v z�kladnom t�bore. 359 00:28:12,152 --> 00:28:15,029 N� prv� probl�m bol vynies� z�soby 360 00:28:15,030 --> 00:28:19,784 do �tvrt�ho t�bora v Z�padnom kotli. 361 00:28:19,869 --> 00:28:22,787 Vzh�adom na lezeck� �a�kosti v �adop�de 362 00:28:22,788 --> 00:28:27,709 nalo�en� nosi�i �iadaj� tri dni na dosiahnutie �tvrt�ho t�bora. 363 00:28:30,337 --> 00:28:32,338 T�to my�lienka vznikla 364 00:28:32,339 --> 00:28:34,465 pri obhliadke hory. 365 00:28:34,466 --> 00:28:37,093 To znamen�, �e by to robili ve�mi systematick�m sp�sobom. 366 00:28:37,094 --> 00:28:40,096 Zalo�ili by jeden, potom �al�� t�bor, 367 00:28:40,097 --> 00:28:42,849 a takto �li st�le vy��ie a vy��ie. 368 00:28:42,850 --> 00:28:45,185 Vybudovan�m takejto pyram�dy t�borov 369 00:28:45,186 --> 00:28:50,523 dostanete hore dostatok stanov, jedla, paliva na varenie, kysl�ka... 370 00:28:50,524 --> 00:28:54,569 dostatok tak�chto z�sob. M��ete si tam odpo�in�� 371 00:28:54,570 --> 00:28:58,114 pred odchodom hore do �al�ej etapy. 372 00:29:03,913 --> 00:29:07,665 A k tomu, �udia by mali �s� hore a hne� dole z hory. 373 00:29:07,666 --> 00:29:10,710 Ide�lne je, ke� �udia dosiahnu t�bor a znova sa vr�tia dole, 374 00:29:10,711 --> 00:29:13,421 preto�e ka�d�, kto dosiahne t�bor a zostane tam, 375 00:29:13,422 --> 00:29:16,966 skonzumuje v�etko jedlo, �o sa vynieslo hore. 376 00:29:35,903 --> 00:29:37,862 �udia sa sna�ili prich�dza� s rie�eniami, 377 00:29:37,863 --> 00:29:40,240 ako pom�c� t�mu k dosiahnutiu vrcholu. 378 00:29:40,241 --> 00:29:42,116 Z cel�ho sveta 379 00:29:42,117 --> 00:29:45,119 posielali �ialen� n�vrhy na vyn�lezy. 380 00:29:45,120 --> 00:29:46,871 Niekto navrhol geni�lne zariadenie, 381 00:29:46,872 --> 00:29:48,581 typ akejsi harp�ny 382 00:29:48,582 --> 00:29:52,043 so z�paln�m zariaden�m na konci. 383 00:29:52,127 --> 00:29:55,547 Hlavn� my�lienka bola, �e by sa takto vp�lila do �adu, 384 00:29:55,548 --> 00:29:57,423 t�m p�dom by zabezpe�ila pevn� ukotvenie lana, 385 00:29:57,424 --> 00:29:59,634 po ktorom by �udia mohli vystupova� hore. 386 00:29:59,635 --> 00:30:02,470 V��inou to boli tot�lne bl�zniv� n�pady. 387 00:30:02,471 --> 00:30:04,806 Moja met�da zah��a pou�itie lana, 388 00:30:04,807 --> 00:30:07,141 vytiahnut�ho dopredu lietadlom. 389 00:30:07,142 --> 00:30:08,768 S mojim osobn�m 390 00:30:08,769 --> 00:30:10,562 vykurovac�m zariaden�m 391 00:30:10,563 --> 00:30:12,522 vzduch bude prech�dza� cez ohrievaciu komoru 392 00:30:12,523 --> 00:30:14,232 a bude �erpan� cez gumen� hadice 393 00:30:14,233 --> 00:30:15,942 do r�k, n�h a hlavy. 394 00:30:15,943 --> 00:30:19,112 M��em spomen�� zvl�tnu zbra� 395 00:30:19,113 --> 00:30:21,489 pre nastre�ovanie oce�ov�ch skrutiek do skaly... 396 00:30:21,490 --> 00:30:23,366 Navrhujem vlnen� oble�enie, 397 00:30:23,367 --> 00:30:24,951 zapojen� v podstate rovnak�m sp�sobom 398 00:30:24,952 --> 00:30:26,578 ako elektrick� prikr�vka... 399 00:30:26,579 --> 00:30:28,121 Bolo by mo�n� 400 00:30:28,122 --> 00:30:31,166 vyst�pa� na vrchol pomocou ve�k�ho h�liom plnen�ho bal�na, 401 00:30:31,167 --> 00:30:35,587 na ktor� by bolo potrebn� ve�k� mno�stvo h�lia. 402 00:30:41,177 --> 00:30:44,596 Takmer v�etky technologick� inov�cie, 403 00:30:44,597 --> 00:30:46,931 pou�it� na exped�cii v roku 1953, 404 00:30:46,932 --> 00:30:49,434 poch�dzali z vec�, vyvinut�ch arm�dou 405 00:30:49,435 --> 00:30:52,562 v priebehu 2. svetovej vojny. 406 00:30:54,398 --> 00:30:57,525 Testovali priamo na sebe nepremokav� zariadenia 407 00:30:57,526 --> 00:31:01,696 v aerodynamickom tuneli Farnborough Aircraft Factory. 408 00:31:08,329 --> 00:31:11,372 30 rozli�n�ch britsk�ch firiem 409 00:31:11,373 --> 00:31:15,543 bolo zapojen�ch pri navrhovan� samotn�ch top�nok. 410 00:31:18,547 --> 00:31:23,843 V�stup na Everest v roku 1953 sa stal ot�zkou n�rodnej prest�e. 411 00:31:24,178 --> 00:31:27,263 Po druhej svetovej vojne bola Brit�nia v tot�lnom bankrote. 412 00:31:27,264 --> 00:31:29,974 Vzh�adom k povojnov�m �sporn�m opatreniam v Brit�nii, 413 00:31:29,975 --> 00:31:32,769 naozaj hrozn�ch dn�... 414 00:31:34,355 --> 00:31:37,190 sa jednalo o posledn� ve�k� koloni�lny projekt... 415 00:31:37,191 --> 00:31:41,194 posledn� "hur�" britsk�ho imp�ria. 416 00:31:52,414 --> 00:31:54,582 M�j otec a Tenzing 417 00:31:54,583 --> 00:31:57,877 neust�le dobrovo�ne pom�hali v r�znych situ�ciach, 418 00:31:57,878 --> 00:32:03,174 demon�truj�c ich kompetenciu by� v jednom z vrcholov�ch t�mov. 419 00:32:03,217 --> 00:32:06,469 Otec vedel, �e tam bol cel� rad d�vodov, 420 00:32:06,470 --> 00:32:11,391 pre�o by toto mala by� najlep�ia kombin�cia pre �spech. 421 00:32:11,809 --> 00:32:15,979 V tomto vysokohorskom prostred� boli ako doma. 422 00:32:16,021 --> 00:32:20,024 Boli "hladn�" po vrchole. 423 00:32:29,910 --> 00:32:32,829 Dohromady ich spojil 424 00:32:32,830 --> 00:32:35,165 z�vod dole �adop�dom Khumbu, 425 00:32:35,166 --> 00:32:39,002 kde sa sna�ili dok�za�, ako to r�chlo prejd�. 426 00:32:39,503 --> 00:32:42,088 Ako produkt jeho nadmernej neviazanosti 427 00:32:42,089 --> 00:32:45,925 bola nehoda, �o sa stala pri jednom preskoku. 428 00:32:46,260 --> 00:32:49,971 Tenzing a ja sme mierili nazad do z�kladn�ho t�bora. 429 00:32:50,556 --> 00:32:53,266 Ke� sme boli zhruba v polovici �adop�du, 430 00:32:53,267 --> 00:32:57,103 dorazili sme k jednej z trhl�n. 431 00:32:59,356 --> 00:33:02,775 Na jednej strane bol ve�k� kus �adu. 432 00:33:02,776 --> 00:33:05,778 Pou�ili sme ho ako odrazov� most�k 433 00:33:05,779 --> 00:33:08,656 na dosiahnutie druhej strany. 434 00:33:42,900 --> 00:33:44,484 Bolo to trocha ironick�, 435 00:33:44,485 --> 00:33:47,070 �e sa to stalo pr�ve Edovi Hillarymu, 436 00:33:47,071 --> 00:33:50,031 tak�mu skvel�mu lezcovi. 437 00:33:52,952 --> 00:33:54,828 �udia mi �asto hovoria: 438 00:33:54,829 --> 00:33:56,579 "Musel si by� ve�mi v�a�n�, 439 00:33:56,580 --> 00:33:59,040 ke� ti Tenzing zachr�nil takto �ivot." 440 00:33:59,041 --> 00:34:00,750 Ale ja som si to nemyslel. 441 00:34:00,751 --> 00:34:05,171 Bol by som ve�mi nahnevan�, ak by mi �ivot nezachr�nil. 442 00:34:12,012 --> 00:34:14,305 �tvrt� t�bor bol postaven�. 443 00:34:14,306 --> 00:34:16,057 �spe�ne sme do neho dopravili 444 00:34:16,058 --> 00:34:20,144 tri tony z�sob. 445 00:34:25,234 --> 00:34:27,443 Horu nedobyje�, 446 00:34:27,444 --> 00:34:29,320 ak nem� dos� ��astia. 447 00:34:29,321 --> 00:34:33,825 Hora ti d� �ancu dosta� sa na vrchol. 448 00:34:33,909 --> 00:34:38,746 Sna�� sa prekona� vlastn� slabiny. 449 00:34:49,884 --> 00:34:52,677 Ed Hillary bol typom nad�enca, 450 00:34:52,678 --> 00:34:54,554 ktor� chcel by� v�dy vpredu... 451 00:34:54,555 --> 00:34:57,515 v�dy chcel by� l�drom. 452 00:34:57,516 --> 00:35:02,812 Nebol grobiansky, bol tich�, viac rezervovan�, charaktern�. 453 00:35:04,815 --> 00:35:08,610 Otec bol dos� komplikovan� �lovek. 454 00:35:08,652 --> 00:35:12,489 Mysl�m, �e otec mal v sebe pr�li� m�lo syndr�mov 455 00:35:12,490 --> 00:35:14,824 by� perfekcionalista. 456 00:35:14,825 --> 00:35:20,163 Sk�r opl�val pocitom menejcennosti, �e nie je na ni� dobr�. 457 00:35:20,164 --> 00:35:25,543 Mysl�m, �e to bolo v�sledkom ve�mi komplikovan�ho rodinn�ho z�zemia. 458 00:35:29,340 --> 00:35:31,591 M�j otec neprejavoval ve�k� z�ujem 459 00:35:31,592 --> 00:35:33,760 o dobrodru�n� aktivity. 460 00:35:33,761 --> 00:35:36,971 Bol hlboko veriacim �lovekom. 461 00:35:36,972 --> 00:35:43,937 Lezenie v hor�ch pova�oval sk�r za stratu �asu. 462 00:35:48,359 --> 00:35:52,237 Prie�il som sa mu. 463 00:35:53,364 --> 00:35:57,283 Zvy�ajne to kon�ilo v k�lni, 464 00:35:57,284 --> 00:36:01,162 kde som od neho dostal dobr� bitku. 465 00:36:02,706 --> 00:36:04,541 Celkom som hrd� na skuto�nos�, 466 00:36:04,542 --> 00:36:09,045 �e som vlastne nikdy nepripustil moje omyly... 467 00:36:10,089 --> 00:36:13,216 ani vtedy, ke� boli zrejm�. 468 00:36:36,282 --> 00:36:39,951 Samozrejme, �e v�etci sme mali obrovsk� z�ujem 469 00:36:39,952 --> 00:36:43,413 dosta� sa do fin�lneho v�beru. 470 00:36:47,835 --> 00:36:53,339 V t�ch �asoch bolo vodcovo slovo "sv�t�", 471 00:36:53,382 --> 00:36:58,136 zvl᚝ u mu�ov, sl��iacich v ozbrojen�ch sil�ch. 472 00:36:59,180 --> 00:37:01,681 Hunt rozhodol, 473 00:37:01,682 --> 00:37:05,101 kto bude t�m ��astlivcom 474 00:37:05,102 --> 00:37:08,479 a zabojuje o vrchol. 475 00:37:13,110 --> 00:37:15,361 V z�kladnom t�bore 476 00:37:15,362 --> 00:37:17,780 John Hunt zvolal v�etk�ch 477 00:37:17,781 --> 00:37:24,496 a na�rtol pl�ny pre zvy�ok exped�cie. 478 00:37:25,539 --> 00:37:30,668 Z�sadn� vec sa t�kala samozrejme pokusov o vrchol. 479 00:37:30,711 --> 00:37:32,587 Na tejto sch�dzi... 480 00:37:32,588 --> 00:37:35,840 mimoriadnej sch�dzi s t�mom, 481 00:37:35,841 --> 00:37:37,967 v tot�lnej izol�cii od zvy�ku sveta, 482 00:37:37,968 --> 00:37:41,346 tis�ce m�� od domova, 483 00:37:43,682 --> 00:37:46,684 ka�d� z mu�ov uva�oval: "Nebola by to n�dhera," 484 00:37:46,685 --> 00:37:50,438 "ak by som bol jedn�m z t�ch ��astlivcov?" 485 00:37:51,941 --> 00:37:55,485 Bolo treba nielen vybra� �ud� pre vrchol, 486 00:37:55,486 --> 00:38:00,073 ale zadeli� aj ostatn� pr�ce. 487 00:38:02,910 --> 00:38:06,162 M�j otec mal pevne stanoven�, 488 00:38:06,163 --> 00:38:11,000 �e to bude on, kto dostane vrcholov� pr�le�itos�. 489 00:38:11,377 --> 00:38:12,919 Jednou z podmienok 490 00:38:12,920 --> 00:38:15,129 m�jho otca �s� s anglick�m t�mom, 491 00:38:15,130 --> 00:38:18,716 bola mo�nos� �s� na vrchol. 492 00:38:18,717 --> 00:38:21,970 Nejestvoval na to �iaden sk�senej�� horolezec. 493 00:38:21,971 --> 00:38:25,139 V�etci by sme radi bojovali o vrchol, 494 00:38:25,140 --> 00:38:27,183 ale o prv� vrcholov� pokus 495 00:38:27,184 --> 00:38:32,480 sa mali pok�si� Tom Bourdillon s Charlesom Evansom. 496 00:38:36,735 --> 00:38:40,071 Hunt potom dodal: "Ak bude potrebn� druh� pokus," 497 00:38:40,072 --> 00:38:44,409 "pok�si sa o� Ed Hillary a Tenzing." 498 00:38:46,036 --> 00:38:47,787 Som presved�en�, �e m�j otec 499 00:38:47,788 --> 00:38:51,791 by bol ve�mi r�d v prvom t�me. 500 00:38:54,336 --> 00:38:59,174 Tenzingovi sa toto zaiste pr�li� nep��ilo. 501 00:39:01,468 --> 00:39:04,804 �al�ia etapa... skuto�ne k���ov�... 502 00:39:04,805 --> 00:39:08,892 bola dosta� sa cez stenu Lhoce do Ju�n�ho sedla. 503 00:39:09,393 --> 00:39:13,438 John Hunt povedal: "V poriadku, Tom Bourdillon s Charlesom Evansom..." 504 00:39:13,439 --> 00:39:15,565 "Najsk�r po�leme ich dvoch." 505 00:39:15,566 --> 00:39:18,526 "M��u urobi� ve�k� skok z Ju�n�ho sedla" 506 00:39:18,527 --> 00:39:22,071 "a� na vrchol za jeden de�." 507 00:39:29,246 --> 00:39:32,415 Prv� hlavn� �lohu v tomto pl�ne z�skal George Lowe. 508 00:39:32,416 --> 00:39:36,836 Mal pripravi� cestu cez stenu Lhoce, 509 00:39:36,837 --> 00:39:40,924 aby �al�ie skupiny mohli dosiahnu� Ju�n� sedlo. 510 00:39:40,966 --> 00:39:44,886 Mala by� hotov� do 15. m�ja. 511 00:39:50,893 --> 00:39:52,685 Proste bolo povedan�: 512 00:39:52,686 --> 00:39:56,689 "Chceme by� v poz�cii zdola� Everest 15. m�ja." 513 00:39:56,690 --> 00:39:59,567 Niekde v podvedom� u Hunta preb�val neust�ly strach, 514 00:39:59,568 --> 00:40:04,948 �e pr�de monz�n a ukon�� v�etky na�e n�deje. 515 00:40:05,115 --> 00:40:10,161 Najsk�r ale museli prekona� vec, zvan� stena Lhoce. 516 00:40:13,290 --> 00:40:16,334 Je to obrovsk�, 1200 metrov vysok� stena, pln� snehu a �adu, 517 00:40:16,335 --> 00:40:21,256 ved�ca strmo do Ju�n�ho sedla, le�iaceho vo v��ke 8000 metrov. 518 00:40:23,759 --> 00:40:27,303 George Lowe, m�j partner z Nov�ho Z�landu, stratil ve�a �asu a energie 519 00:40:27,304 --> 00:40:31,015 prer�an�m cesty cez tento n�ro�n� probl�m. 520 00:40:31,308 --> 00:40:33,935 Pr�ca v stene bola ve�mi n�ro�n�. 521 00:40:33,936 --> 00:40:35,812 E�te viac ju s�a�ovalo otrasn� 522 00:40:35,813 --> 00:40:40,942 po�asie a dennodenn� padanie snehu, ktor� neust�le prikr�val stopy. 523 00:40:41,902 --> 00:40:44,654 T�to vysut� poz�ciu som po dlh� �as zdie�al s Ang Nyimom, 524 00:40:44,655 --> 00:40:48,116 �tlym �erpom. 525 00:40:50,786 --> 00:40:53,204 George Lowe pracoval v stene Lhoce 526 00:40:53,205 --> 00:40:59,878 a� do v��ky 7700 metrov viac ne� t��de� bez podporn�ho kysl�ka. 527 00:41:01,297 --> 00:41:04,883 Bola hrozn� zima a dul siln� vietor. 528 00:41:04,884 --> 00:41:08,052 Po cel� �as som d�fal, �e preraz�m cestu 529 00:41:08,053 --> 00:41:12,056 traverzom steny do Ju�n�ho sedla. 530 00:41:12,474 --> 00:41:17,103 Bol som ale bi�ovan� po�as�m a aj nadmorsk� v��ka mala na m�a vplyv. 531 00:41:17,104 --> 00:41:21,816 Zdalo sa, �e nebudeme schopn� urobi� posledn�ch 300 metrov do sedla. 532 00:41:24,487 --> 00:41:26,696 John Hunt urobil ve�k� chybu, 533 00:41:26,697 --> 00:41:29,782 ke� podcenil stenu Lhoce. 534 00:41:29,783 --> 00:41:32,911 Proste bola pr�li� ve�k�. 535 00:41:39,668 --> 00:41:43,922 George Lowe od neho nedost�val dos� podpory. 536 00:41:44,590 --> 00:41:47,133 Bolo to iba na mne a Ang Nyimovi. 537 00:41:47,134 --> 00:41:49,511 V�dy, ke� n�m posielali podporu, 538 00:41:49,512 --> 00:41:53,848 neboli schopn� do 24 hod�n ju doru�i�. 539 00:41:56,018 --> 00:41:57,977 Vo vysok�ch v��kach 540 00:41:57,978 --> 00:42:01,523 sa nikdy dobre nec�ti�. 541 00:42:04,652 --> 00:42:07,862 Ka�d�m dychom vo vysok�ch nadmorsk�ch v��kach 542 00:42:07,863 --> 00:42:09,656 z�skava� menej molek�l kysl�ka. 543 00:42:09,657 --> 00:42:14,953 Preto potrebuje� viac n�dychov, aby si z�skal potrebn� kysl�k. 544 00:42:19,500 --> 00:42:21,709 Prelo�� si podlo�ku cez �sta 545 00:42:21,710 --> 00:42:24,504 a sna�� sa cez �u d�cha�, akoby si be�al. 546 00:42:24,505 --> 00:42:27,549 Iba nas�va� vzduch... sna�� sa dosta� do seba dos� vzduchu. 547 00:42:27,550 --> 00:42:30,385 Napriek tomu dlh vzduchu narast�, a� nakoniec proste nem��e� �s� �alej... 548 00:42:30,386 --> 00:42:33,179 mus� zastavi�. 549 00:42:33,180 --> 00:42:35,849 Spotrebuje� tri, �tyri n�dychy na jeden krok... 550 00:42:35,850 --> 00:42:39,769 nesk�r p�, �es�... 551 00:42:39,770 --> 00:42:41,813 p�tn�s� n�dychov... 552 00:42:41,814 --> 00:42:44,149 proste sa ti nedost�va vzduchu. 553 00:42:47,653 --> 00:42:53,074 Tam hore sa ti myse� akosi postupne spoma�uje. 554 00:42:55,327 --> 00:42:57,704 Myslel som, �e som extr�mne dobr�, 555 00:42:57,705 --> 00:43:02,625 ale v skuto�nosti sme boli om�men� ako �udia vo sne. 556 00:43:10,176 --> 00:43:13,553 V stene Lhoce sme str�vili 10 dn�, 557 00:43:13,554 --> 00:43:16,264 zna�ne viac, ne� som r�tal. 558 00:43:16,265 --> 00:43:21,394 Pritom sme st�le neprerazili do Ju�n�ho sedla. 559 00:43:21,395 --> 00:43:25,398 �asov� faktor sa st�val kritick�m. 560 00:43:28,986 --> 00:43:31,446 Monitorovan�m pokroku v stene Lhoce 561 00:43:31,447 --> 00:43:34,324 bolo zrejm�, �e hybnos� �toku 562 00:43:34,325 --> 00:43:36,784 postupne slabne. 563 00:43:36,785 --> 00:43:38,745 Pritom prv� n�znaky monz�nu 564 00:43:38,746 --> 00:43:42,999 sa u� vytv�rali v Beng�lskom z�live. 565 00:43:43,334 --> 00:43:47,295 Bol ve�mi kritick� �as. 566 00:43:47,463 --> 00:43:49,088 Predstavte si pocit Hunta, 567 00:43:49,089 --> 00:43:51,841 ako sa mu pr�ve rozpad� tento ve�k� podnik. 568 00:43:51,842 --> 00:43:54,385 "Ak ��msk�r nevyrie�ime t�to vec," 569 00:43:54,386 --> 00:43:55,970 "budeme str�ca� na�u �ancu." 570 00:43:55,971 --> 00:43:57,514 "Pr�chodom monz�nu" 571 00:43:57,515 --> 00:44:00,642 "nedosiahneme ani Ju�n� sedlo, tob�� vrchol." 572 00:44:09,143 --> 00:44:11,770 Everest �UDIA versus PO�ASIE 573 00:44:12,404 --> 00:44:16,032 Lond�n vol� britsk� exped�ciu na Mount Evereste. 574 00:44:16,033 --> 00:44:18,159 Tu je najnov�ia predpove� po�asia. 575 00:44:18,160 --> 00:44:21,996 Z�padn� front sa zrejme presunie na v�chod 576 00:44:21,997 --> 00:44:24,874 cez najkrajnej�� sever Nep�lu. 577 00:44:24,875 --> 00:44:27,961 Je pravdepodobn�, �e prinesie ve�k� obla�nos� 578 00:44:27,962 --> 00:44:31,172 s ob�asn�mi b�rkami... 579 00:44:31,715 --> 00:44:35,009 Nesk�r v m�ji 580 00:44:35,010 --> 00:44:38,721 bolo st�le zrejmej�ie, �e doraz� monz�n. 581 00:44:39,932 --> 00:44:41,683 Pr�chodom monz�nu 582 00:44:41,684 --> 00:44:46,062 prich�dza aj mnoho snehu, t�m je lezenie ove�a problematickej�ie. 583 00:44:46,063 --> 00:44:49,732 Vo ve�kom mno�stve sypk�ho snehu nie je �ahk� liez�... 584 00:44:49,733 --> 00:44:52,443 brodi� si n�m cestu. 585 00:44:53,612 --> 00:44:56,447 Britsk� exped�cia v roku 1930 �plne zlyhala, 586 00:44:56,448 --> 00:44:59,325 preto�e monz�n pri�iel pr�li� skoro. 587 00:44:59,410 --> 00:45:03,413 Hlavne kv�li tomuto narastal v exped�cii tlak. 588 00:45:12,923 --> 00:45:15,675 Aj ke� nebola 589 00:45:15,676 --> 00:45:18,595 dokon�en� cesta do Ju�n�ho sedla, 590 00:45:18,596 --> 00:45:21,848 John Hunt vydal z�sadn� rozhodnutie 591 00:45:21,849 --> 00:45:25,393 vysla� hore 14-�lenn� t�m �erpov, 592 00:45:25,394 --> 00:45:28,605 aby z�sobili v�etky sklady, ktor� budeme potrebova�. 593 00:45:36,405 --> 00:45:39,657 Ni� nesmelo ohrozi� na�e sklady 594 00:45:39,658 --> 00:45:43,786 v �ase �tokov na vrchol. 595 00:45:47,583 --> 00:45:50,084 21. m�ja sme Tenzing a ja 596 00:45:50,085 --> 00:45:54,005 viedli skupinu 14-tich �erpsk�ch nosi�ov do Ju�n�ho sedla. 597 00:46:05,893 --> 00:46:10,396 13-ti �erpovia toho d�a vyst�pili do sedla bez podporn�ho kysl�ka. 598 00:46:10,397 --> 00:46:14,776 Iba 14-ty to nedok�zal, ale o jeho n�klad bolo postaran�. 599 00:46:14,777 --> 00:46:18,947 Boli sme na nich py�n� a v�a�n�. 600 00:46:19,907 --> 00:46:21,783 Stihli to za 10 a pol hodiny. 601 00:46:21,784 --> 00:46:24,285 Ka�d� vyniesol zhruba 15 kg a ich jedin�m jedlom 602 00:46:24,286 --> 00:46:27,997 bola ��lka �aju a k�sok chleba. 603 00:46:30,709 --> 00:46:34,379 Takto sme boli schopn� spr�vne vybavi� t�bor 604 00:46:34,380 --> 00:46:38,091 stanmi, spac�mi vakmi, kysl�kov�mi pr�strojmi a jedlom. 605 00:46:38,092 --> 00:46:41,636 Bol to jeden z najv���ch �spechov. 606 00:46:49,103 --> 00:46:50,645 Ju�n� sedlo je zrejme 607 00:46:50,646 --> 00:46:53,189 najnehostinnej�ie miesto sveta. 608 00:46:54,108 --> 00:46:55,942 Nepretr�it� siln� vietor 609 00:46:55,943 --> 00:46:59,654 neust�le f�ka cez bez�te�n� pustatinu snehu a �adu, 610 00:46:59,655 --> 00:47:01,489 vr�tane vetrom zni�en�ch 611 00:47:01,490 --> 00:47:03,825 stanov �vaj�iarskej v�pravy z predch�dzaj�ceho roka, 612 00:47:03,826 --> 00:47:08,371 na ktor�ch vej� iba zostatky roztrhanej tkaniny. 613 00:47:12,126 --> 00:47:16,504 V roku 1952 pozvali �vaj�iari m�jho otca na v�stup na Everest. 614 00:47:16,505 --> 00:47:20,425 Dostal sa do v��ky, kde predt�m �iaden �lovek nebol, 615 00:47:20,426 --> 00:47:24,262 ale nepriazniv� po�asie ich vr�tilo sp�. 616 00:47:26,223 --> 00:47:28,808 Spom�nam si na v�rok Andreasa Rocha zo �vaj�iarskej v�pravy: 617 00:47:28,809 --> 00:47:32,353 "V sedle c�ti� pach smrti." 618 00:47:32,354 --> 00:47:34,898 Mysleli sme, �e to je iba prehnan� dr�ma, 619 00:47:34,899 --> 00:47:38,359 ale ke� sme tam pri�li, pochopili sme. 620 00:47:41,113 --> 00:47:44,032 Poviem v�m, tamoj�iu zimu 621 00:47:44,033 --> 00:47:45,992 prec�ti� a� do �piku kost�. 622 00:47:45,993 --> 00:47:49,204 Om�zaj� ti prsty, ruky... 623 00:47:49,205 --> 00:47:51,456 c�ti� neust�le stup�uj�cu sa zimu. 624 00:47:51,457 --> 00:47:55,793 Je to s�boj tela a snahy nie�o robi�. 625 00:47:55,794 --> 00:47:59,714 Vie�, �e tam pomaly zomiera�. 626 00:48:09,099 --> 00:48:11,017 Dosiahli sme v�znamn� krok. 627 00:48:11,018 --> 00:48:14,812 Potom sme sa vr�tili do Z�padn�ho kotla. 628 00:48:17,817 --> 00:48:23,363 Neodkladne sme uviedli do chodu �to�n� pl�n. 629 00:48:25,115 --> 00:48:28,368 Hunt chcel zrealizova� dva pokusy o vrchol, 630 00:48:28,369 --> 00:48:31,120 ale uvedomil si, �e dva pokusy s� prive�a 631 00:48:31,121 --> 00:48:33,873 na pou�itie s�prav s "otvoren�m okruhom". 632 00:48:33,874 --> 00:48:35,834 V tomto mechanizme 633 00:48:35,835 --> 00:48:40,004 ke� vyd�chnete, vyd�chnut� vzduch sa dost�va von do atmosf�ry, 634 00:48:40,005 --> 00:48:41,548 ke� sa nad�chnete, 635 00:48:41,549 --> 00:48:45,260 atmosferick� vzduch vdychujete spolu s trochou podporn�ho kysl�ka 636 00:48:45,261 --> 00:48:48,179 z v�ho kysl�kov�ho pr�stroja. 637 00:48:50,933 --> 00:48:53,268 Cez kysl�kov� pr�stroj 638 00:48:53,269 --> 00:48:55,353 sa spotrebuje ve�a kysl�ka, 639 00:48:55,354 --> 00:48:58,940 tak�e by bolo treba dosta� obrovsk� mno�stvo kysl�ka 640 00:48:58,941 --> 00:49:01,192 do Ju�n�ho sedla a na Juhov�chodn� hrebe�. 641 00:49:01,193 --> 00:49:02,735 Preto sa rozhodol: 642 00:49:02,736 --> 00:49:05,029 "Nie, toto dok�za� nebudeme schopn�." 643 00:49:05,030 --> 00:49:07,323 Existovala ale aj alternat�vna forma kysl�kovej s�pravy, 644 00:49:07,324 --> 00:49:10,368 naz�van� "uzavret� okruh". 645 00:49:11,036 --> 00:49:13,663 Pri "uzavretom okruhu" ke� vyd�chnete, 646 00:49:13,664 --> 00:49:16,207 oxid uhli�it� prech�dza cez kanister, 647 00:49:16,208 --> 00:49:19,961 naplnen� zmesou s�dy a v�pna 648 00:49:19,962 --> 00:49:22,338 a vr�ti sa sp� ako kysl�k do kysl�kov�ch flia�. 649 00:49:22,339 --> 00:49:26,509 Takto ste �plne izolovan� od vonkaj�ieho vzduchu. 650 00:49:29,013 --> 00:49:34,601 Ak to bude pracova�, "uzavret� okruh" bude ��innej��, 651 00:49:34,602 --> 00:49:37,770 ne� "otvoren� okruh". 652 00:49:37,771 --> 00:49:41,316 �udia, pou��vaj�ci "uzavret� okruh", 653 00:49:41,317 --> 00:49:43,902 m��u za�a� z ni���ch v��ok. 654 00:49:43,903 --> 00:49:46,362 Probl�m s "uzavret�m okruhom" bol, 655 00:49:46,363 --> 00:49:49,282 �e jedin�, kto ho vedel pou��va�, 656 00:49:49,283 --> 00:49:52,160 bol jeho navrhovate�, Tom Bourdillon. 657 00:49:52,161 --> 00:49:54,954 Prv� pokus o vrchol 658 00:49:54,955 --> 00:49:57,081 s vyu�it�m kysl�ka z "uzavret�ho okruhu" 659 00:49:57,082 --> 00:50:01,669 podnikol Tom Bourdillon s Charlesom Evansom. 660 00:50:02,838 --> 00:50:07,884 John Hunt �iel do Ju�n�ho sedla ako podpora. 661 00:50:13,599 --> 00:50:16,142 Evans a Bourdillon opustili predsunut� z�kladn� t�bor 662 00:50:16,143 --> 00:50:18,061 v Z�padnom kotli 663 00:50:18,062 --> 00:50:21,898 a vyrazili do t�bora v Ju�nom sedle. 664 00:50:22,233 --> 00:50:24,901 Tom a Charles pokra�ovali cestou 665 00:50:24,902 --> 00:50:27,946 z Ju�n�ho sedla na vrchol. 666 00:50:28,572 --> 00:50:31,241 V tom �ase som si myslel, �e maj� �ancu, 667 00:50:31,242 --> 00:50:35,119 ale bola to pekelne dlh� cesta. 668 00:50:42,878 --> 00:50:45,380 Ak by Bourdillon a Evans dosiahli vrchol, 669 00:50:45,381 --> 00:50:47,632 John Hunt by mohol poveda�: "Pr�ca je skon�en�," 670 00:50:47,633 --> 00:50:51,302 "ideme domov, v�etci s� v bezpe��!" 671 00:50:56,267 --> 00:50:59,936 Ale po�asie sa zhor�ilo a v�etci na dva dni uviazli, 672 00:50:59,937 --> 00:51:04,440 vr�tane Bourdillona a Evansa, v Ju�nom sedle. 673 00:51:05,568 --> 00:51:08,945 M�j otec a Tenzing opustili predsunut� z�kladn� t�bor 674 00:51:08,946 --> 00:51:11,030 v Z�padnom kotli 675 00:51:11,031 --> 00:51:14,868 a pri�li do Ju�n�ho sedla ako druh� vrcholov� t�m. 676 00:51:14,869 --> 00:51:18,204 Opustili sme z�kladn� t�bor v Z�padnom kotli. 677 00:51:18,205 --> 00:51:20,123 Spolu s nami �la aj podporn� skupina - 678 00:51:20,124 --> 00:51:24,711 George Lowe, Alf Gregory a nieko�ko �erpov. 679 00:51:28,299 --> 00:51:30,717 Tenzing a ja, ako �to�n� skupina, 680 00:51:30,718 --> 00:51:33,428 sme �li s "otvoren�m okruhom". 681 00:51:45,691 --> 00:51:49,402 Ke� Tenzing s mojim otcom odch�dzali zo �tvrt�ho t�bora, 682 00:51:49,403 --> 00:51:52,906 Bourdillon a Evans pr�ve uskuto��ovali ich vrcholov� pokus. 683 00:51:58,787 --> 00:52:00,997 Stenou Lhoce sme �li 684 00:52:00,998 --> 00:52:05,752 dlh�m traverzom, ved�cim do Ju�n�ho sedla. 685 00:52:12,551 --> 00:52:14,928 Pr�ve sme prich�dzali do Ju�n�ho sedla, 686 00:52:14,929 --> 00:52:17,722 ke� sme si v�imli podporn� skupinu... 687 00:52:17,723 --> 00:52:21,893 George za�al kri�a� a sk�ka� naokolo. 688 00:52:21,894 --> 00:52:24,854 Pozreli sme hore a zbadali Evansa a Bourdillona, 689 00:52:24,855 --> 00:52:27,816 smeruj�c na mali�k� �t�t priamo nad nami... 690 00:52:27,817 --> 00:52:31,194 na Ju�n� vrchol. 691 00:52:31,821 --> 00:52:35,156 Mysl�m, �e to mohlo by� nejako napoludnie. 692 00:52:35,157 --> 00:52:39,118 Mysleli sme si: "�... napoludnie s� na Ju�nom vrchole." 693 00:52:39,119 --> 00:52:42,664 "Maj� �as dosta� sa na hlavn� vrchol." 694 00:52:44,458 --> 00:52:47,335 "Dosiahnu ho." 695 00:52:48,921 --> 00:52:52,090 Ke� sa Bourdillon a Evans stratili z doh�adu, 696 00:52:52,091 --> 00:52:54,008 vypukli ve�k� em�cie, 697 00:52:54,009 --> 00:52:57,220 preto�e t�to �udia by tam u� ka�d� chv��u mali by�. 698 00:53:00,766 --> 00:53:05,854 Dorazili sme na Ju�n� sedlo. 699 00:53:10,276 --> 00:53:12,861 O nie�o nesk�r sme museli d�va� pozor 700 00:53:12,862 --> 00:53:14,946 na mraky, prich�dzaj�ce ponad hory. 701 00:53:14,947 --> 00:53:18,283 Za�ali sme ma� trocha obavy o Evansa a Bourdillona. 702 00:53:18,284 --> 00:53:20,451 Na��astie, mysl�m, �e o pol �tvrtej 703 00:53:20,452 --> 00:53:22,787 ich George znova zbadal, 704 00:53:22,788 --> 00:53:25,665 sch�dzaj�c dole kulo�rom z Juhov�chodn�ho hrebe�a 705 00:53:25,666 --> 00:53:28,459 do Ju�n�ho sedla. 706 00:53:31,714 --> 00:53:33,464 Pre�iel dlh� �as 707 00:53:33,465 --> 00:53:36,050 k�m za�ali samotn� zostup dole. 708 00:53:40,222 --> 00:53:45,852 Ako sch�dzali dole, boli zrete�ne ve�mi unaven�. 709 00:53:51,275 --> 00:53:53,818 Ke� Bourdillon a Evans sch�dzali dole, 710 00:53:53,819 --> 00:53:57,363 otec im vyrazil naproti. 711 00:54:02,995 --> 00:54:05,246 �udia maj� tendenciu vidie�, 712 00:54:05,247 --> 00:54:09,125 �e tento naozaj dobr� �lovek im ide naproti, aby im pomohol z�s� dole. 713 00:54:09,126 --> 00:54:12,337 A tak to aj rozhodne bolo. 714 00:54:13,047 --> 00:54:16,799 Ale hnala ho za nimi aj druh� vec, 715 00:54:16,800 --> 00:54:18,635 ke�e chcel vyliez� na vrchol... 716 00:54:18,636 --> 00:54:22,347 potreboval vedie�: "Kam sa a� dostali?" 717 00:54:26,060 --> 00:54:27,602 Povedali n�m, 718 00:54:27,603 --> 00:54:29,145 �e v poriadku dosiahli Ju�n� vrchol, 719 00:54:29,146 --> 00:54:31,189 pozerali po vrcholovom hrebeni, 720 00:54:31,190 --> 00:54:36,486 ale nemali dostatok �asu, kysl�ka, �i energie �s� �alej. 721 00:54:46,413 --> 00:54:48,373 Boli v hroznom stave. 722 00:54:48,374 --> 00:54:51,543 Charles Evans v��inu d�a liezol s kysl�kov�m pr�strojom, 723 00:54:51,544 --> 00:54:53,086 ktor� nepracoval spr�vne, 724 00:54:53,087 --> 00:54:56,047 tak�e bol inhalovan� oxidom uhli�it�m, rovnako ako kysl�kom. 725 00:54:56,048 --> 00:55:01,928 Tie� si mysl�m, �e Tom Bourdillon bol na tom aj psychicky zle, 726 00:55:01,929 --> 00:55:04,222 preto�e to pre neho ve�a znamenalo. 727 00:55:04,223 --> 00:55:09,060 Pr�ve on navrhol tento kysl�kov� pr�stroj, ktor� zlyhal. 728 00:55:09,228 --> 00:55:14,399 Psychicky aj fyzicky boli na tom rovnako zle. 729 00:55:15,568 --> 00:55:19,195 Tom Bourdillon hovoril st�le dokola: "Mali sme tam �s�!" 730 00:55:19,196 --> 00:55:21,281 "Mali sme pokra�ova�!" 731 00:55:21,282 --> 00:55:24,200 "Mali sme pokra�ova�!" 732 00:55:27,997 --> 00:55:29,831 Evans a Bourdillon 733 00:55:29,832 --> 00:55:32,959 boli ve�mi siln� a sk�sen� horolezci. 734 00:55:35,337 --> 00:55:39,841 Dostali sa vy��ie, ne� ktoko�vek in� pred nimi... 735 00:55:40,634 --> 00:55:42,468 dosiahli Ju�n� vrchol 736 00:55:42,469 --> 00:55:46,848 a mali na dosah hrebe�, ostr� takmer ako britva. 737 00:55:46,849 --> 00:55:50,977 Charles Evans povedal Edovi Hillarymu nie�o v tomto zmysle: 738 00:55:50,978 --> 00:55:57,775 "Posledn� hrebe� sa zd� by� ve�mi �a�k�, neviem, �i ho prejdete." 739 00:56:18,422 --> 00:56:21,841 V��ku nad 8000 metrov naz�vame "z�na smrti", 740 00:56:21,842 --> 00:56:25,386 preto�e tam pomaly zomierate. 741 00:56:25,387 --> 00:56:29,933 Nie je to miesto pre �ud�. 742 00:56:34,814 --> 00:56:38,024 John Hunt bol vodca, ved�ci spredu. 743 00:56:38,025 --> 00:56:40,985 Teraz bol v Ju�nom sedle, 744 00:56:40,986 --> 00:56:42,987 kde chcel pozorova� v�stup na vrchol. 745 00:56:42,988 --> 00:56:47,826 No, my sme pochopili, �e nie je dos� siln� vydr�a� tam dlh�ie. 746 00:56:48,661 --> 00:56:50,328 Bol to klasick� pr�pad 747 00:56:50,329 --> 00:56:53,957 niekoho, kto bol pr�li� vysoko. 748 00:56:53,958 --> 00:56:56,334 Prekro�il svoju hranicu, 749 00:56:56,335 --> 00:56:58,628 rovnako ako Tom Bourdillon a Charles Evans. 750 00:56:58,629 --> 00:57:03,758 Nakoniec sa nechal presved�i� z�s� s nimi dole. 751 00:57:04,635 --> 00:57:07,762 Boli vy�erpan� a my sme mali o nich strach. 752 00:57:07,763 --> 00:57:12,141 Vyhrabali sme im nejak� kysl�k na pomoc. 753 00:57:12,768 --> 00:57:15,186 Sedlo som ve�mi ner�d op���al, 754 00:57:15,187 --> 00:57:16,896 ale po ur�itej diskusii 755 00:57:16,897 --> 00:57:19,691 som videl, �e druh� skupinu t�m neoslab�m. 756 00:57:19,692 --> 00:57:25,572 Iba som dal Edovi povzbudzuj�ce in�trukcie, aby nepod�ahli. 757 00:57:27,158 --> 00:57:29,784 Pre exped�ciu to bol ve�k� moment. 758 00:57:29,785 --> 00:57:33,580 Vodca v �om obetoval svoje vlastn� amb�cie. 759 00:57:33,581 --> 00:57:36,040 Ed Hillary povedal: "Nikdy viac" 760 00:57:36,041 --> 00:57:39,794 "som pred Johnom Huntom nemal v��� re�pekt." 761 00:57:56,061 --> 00:57:58,104 Bolo treba ��msk�r �s�, 762 00:57:58,105 --> 00:58:00,565 preto�e monz�n mal dorazi� v prv� j�nov� t��de� 763 00:58:00,566 --> 00:58:03,902 a m�j sa u� bl�il ku koncu. 764 00:58:06,363 --> 00:58:09,741 Hillary a Tenzing nemohli vyrazi� na vrchol 765 00:58:09,742 --> 00:58:11,659 z Ju�n�ho sedla, 766 00:58:11,660 --> 00:58:14,120 preto�e by museli so sebou nies� pr�li� ve�a kysl�ka. 767 00:58:14,121 --> 00:58:19,459 Jedin� mo�nos� bola vyrazi� na vrchol z vy��ieho bodu. 768 00:58:24,590 --> 00:58:27,425 Nasleduj�ci de� bol extr�mny vietor a zima. 769 00:58:27,426 --> 00:58:30,887 �iaden posun hore nebol mo�n�. 770 00:58:31,222 --> 00:58:33,723 Str�vili sme ho pr�pravou kysl�ka a zariadenia 771 00:58:33,724 --> 00:58:38,186 s n�dejou, �e �al�� de� bude jasn� a pr�jemn�. 772 00:58:41,607 --> 00:58:45,985 V noci pou��vali kysl�k, s�laj�ci s ve�mi n�zkou r�chlos�ou. 773 00:58:45,986 --> 00:58:47,654 Pom�hal im lep�ie zaspa� 774 00:58:47,655 --> 00:58:51,199 a bolo im pri tom trocha teplej�ie. 775 00:58:54,119 --> 00:58:56,162 Noc je �a�k� doba. 776 00:58:56,163 --> 00:58:59,541 Le�� tam, na��vaj�c zvukom hory... 777 00:59:02,670 --> 00:59:06,256 na��vaj�c vetru... lav�nam... 778 00:59:06,257 --> 00:59:09,592 mysliac si: "M�j Bo�e..." 779 00:59:10,928 --> 00:59:14,055 "d�moni prich�dzaj�!" 780 00:59:20,813 --> 00:59:24,607 Ofici�lny pl�n bol, �e Gregory spolu s tromi �erpami 781 00:59:24,608 --> 00:59:26,818 sa postaraj� o vy��� t�bor. 782 00:59:26,819 --> 00:59:31,906 Ale jeden �erpa v sedle skolaboval, preto �iel skor�ie dole. 783 00:59:31,907 --> 00:59:34,868 Pri n�s zostali iba dvaja �erpovia. 784 00:59:37,955 --> 00:59:41,875 Na druh� de� sme zam���ali robi� vyn�ku. 785 00:59:41,876 --> 00:59:44,085 No pri poh�adee do stanu 786 00:59:44,086 --> 00:59:47,380 sme na�li �erpu Pembu vo ve�mi zlom stave. 787 00:59:48,674 --> 00:59:50,550 Bolo zrejm�, �e vyn�a� nebude, 788 00:59:50,551 --> 00:59:55,388 preto sme si jeho z�a� museli prerozdeli�. 789 01:00:01,228 --> 01:00:03,563 Hne� zr�na sme vedeli, 790 01:00:03,564 --> 01:00:08,151 �e budeme musie� po prerozdelen� nies� v��iu z�a�. 791 01:00:09,361 --> 01:00:15,950 George Lowe, ja a Ang Nyima sme odch�dzali asi o �tvr� na dev�. 792 01:00:20,748 --> 01:00:24,459 Ed a Tenzing op���ali Ju�n� sedlo hodinu za nami, 793 01:00:24,460 --> 01:00:27,921 aby �etrili energiu a vystupovali r�chlej�ie po na�ich stop�ch, 794 01:00:27,922 --> 01:00:31,049 t�m p�dom �etrili aj ich kysl�k. 795 01:00:31,383 --> 01:00:34,969 Niesli sme 25 - 30 kg. 796 01:00:34,970 --> 01:00:38,306 Edova vyn�ku sme odhadli taktie� na okolo 30 kg. 797 01:00:38,307 --> 01:00:42,227 Pre dan� nadmorsk� v��ku to bolo celkom enormn� za�a�enie. 798 01:00:44,271 --> 01:00:48,274 V sedle dul ve�mi siln� vietor. 799 01:00:48,275 --> 01:00:51,402 Mali sme ve�mi �a�k� podmienky. 800 01:00:51,403 --> 01:00:54,614 St�pali sme hrebe�om, h�adaj�c ploch� miesto. 801 01:01:01,539 --> 01:01:05,208 Dlho sme miesto pre t�bor nemohli n�js�. 802 01:01:05,709 --> 01:01:08,962 Tenzing nakoniec predsa len na�iel 803 01:01:08,963 --> 01:01:13,716 plo�inku pod jedn�m skaln�m �tesom. 804 01:01:14,969 --> 01:01:17,303 Pomohli n�m s najvy���m t�borom, 805 01:01:17,304 --> 01:01:19,305 ak� bol kedy na Evereste ako aj in�ch hor�ch... 806 01:01:19,306 --> 01:01:23,101 vo v��ke 8500 metrov. 807 01:01:33,445 --> 01:01:37,615 Nikto nikdy predt�m net�boril vo vy��ej v��ke. 808 01:01:38,951 --> 01:01:41,870 George Lowe a Alf Gregory urobili nieko�ko fotografi� 809 01:01:41,871 --> 01:01:45,123 a podali n�m ruky so slovami: "Dovidenia a ve�a ��astia!" 810 01:01:45,124 --> 01:01:47,667 "My rad�ej vyraz�me dole." 811 01:01:47,668 --> 01:01:52,422 Bol to ��asn� doj�mav� okamih. 812 01:01:52,423 --> 01:01:55,925 Ang Nyima bol ve�mi unaven�, mal by �s� dole. 813 01:01:55,926 --> 01:01:59,095 On ale povedal otcovi, �e chce zosta�, 814 01:01:59,096 --> 01:02:03,391 navar� nejak� �aj, pom��e im pri zostupe. 815 01:02:03,684 --> 01:02:07,061 Viem, �e otec bol t�m ve�mi dojat�. 816 01:02:07,062 --> 01:02:11,357 Ale nakoniec predsa len za�ali zostupova� dole. 817 01:02:11,358 --> 01:02:16,029 Hillaryho a Tenzinga zanechali �plne samotn�ch. 818 01:02:20,034 --> 01:02:22,911 So sm�tkom sme 819 01:02:22,912 --> 01:02:25,455 sledovali Georga, Grega a Sherpu Ang Nyimu 820 01:02:25,456 --> 01:02:28,541 ako sch�dzaj� dole a zanech�vaj� n�s tam �plne samotn�ch. 821 01:02:28,542 --> 01:02:31,419 Ove�a rad�ej by sme mali pri sebe v noci nejak� spolo�nos�. 822 01:02:31,420 --> 01:02:35,256 Aj tak museli �s� dole, nemali sme tam dostatok kysl�ka. 823 01:02:36,175 --> 01:02:40,512 Zostali tam �plne sami, odrezan� od sveta, 824 01:02:40,513 --> 01:02:42,931 bez ak�hoko�vek r�diov�ho kontaktu. 825 01:02:42,932 --> 01:02:44,516 Ak by sa stratili, 826 01:02:44,517 --> 01:02:48,520 ka�d� by sa iba �udoval: "�o sa s nimi stalo?" 827 01:02:49,355 --> 01:02:52,398 Mysl�m, �e sa museli c�ti� ve�mi nap�to, 828 01:02:52,399 --> 01:02:56,486 osamelo a vystra�ene. 829 01:03:08,958 --> 01:03:12,168 Stavanie stanu n�m zabralo dve hodiny tvrdej pr�ce 830 01:03:12,169 --> 01:03:16,506 na plo�inke 2x3 metre. 831 01:03:20,928 --> 01:03:23,388 Smerom k vrcholu Everestu 832 01:03:23,389 --> 01:03:26,057 duj� ve�mi siln� vetry. 833 01:03:26,058 --> 01:03:29,435 Oni boli k tomuto svahu ve�mi neisto prip�tan�. 834 01:03:29,436 --> 01:03:31,062 Po cel� �as mali strach, 835 01:03:31,063 --> 01:03:33,898 �e ich z hory odf�kne. 836 01:03:34,692 --> 01:03:37,068 Ke� vietor za�ne ve�er silnie�, 837 01:03:37,069 --> 01:03:38,987 ste v celkom nebezpe�nej poz�cii, 838 01:03:38,988 --> 01:03:41,948 preto�e ste k hore prip�tan�. 839 01:03:42,241 --> 01:03:44,450 Ten hluk je ozaj desiv�. 840 01:03:57,673 --> 01:04:02,427 T�to noc bola najchladnej�ia, ak� bola na exped�cii zaznamenan�. 841 01:04:07,308 --> 01:04:09,392 Je to tak� dehydrata�n� prostredie. 842 01:04:09,393 --> 01:04:11,186 Jedin� mo�nos�, ako z�ska� vodu 843 01:04:11,187 --> 01:04:14,772 je rozt�penie snehu alebo �adu. 844 01:04:14,899 --> 01:04:18,443 Mus�te sa osemkr�t viac nad�chnu� ako pri hladine mora. 845 01:04:18,444 --> 01:04:20,695 M��ete strati� viac ne� liter denne, 846 01:04:20,696 --> 01:04:23,656 iba kv�li nadmernej d�chavi�nosti v takejto nadmorskej v��ke. 847 01:04:23,657 --> 01:04:25,617 Okrem toho, vzduch je tak such�, 848 01:04:25,618 --> 01:04:28,661 �e saje vlhkos� priamo z va�ej poko�ky. 849 01:04:38,047 --> 01:04:40,507 Usadil som sa �o najkomfortnej�ie, 850 01:04:40,508 --> 01:04:44,093 napoly sediac a napoly si opieraj�c chrb�t. 851 01:04:44,094 --> 01:04:48,264 Nebolo to pr�jemn�, ale pom�halo to mojim ruk�m a noh�m 852 01:04:48,265 --> 01:04:53,561 dr�a� na�e skromn� ukotvenie stanu pred poryvmi vetra. 853 01:04:57,066 --> 01:04:58,650 V��kov� horolezectvo 854 01:04:58,651 --> 01:05:03,571 je v�dy o tom, ako si urobi� pohodlie na nepohodln�ch miestach. 855 01:05:05,366 --> 01:05:09,786 V z�kladnom pre��van� zo d�a na de� bol Ed rovnako dobr� ako Tenzing. 856 01:05:09,787 --> 01:05:13,498 Mysl�m, �e v tomto si ozaj zapasovali. 857 01:05:22,216 --> 01:05:24,551 Za�iatkom noci vietor ustal. 858 01:05:24,552 --> 01:05:28,763 Mali sme nejak� kysl�k, ktor� sme pou�ili na spiace ��ely 859 01:05:28,764 --> 01:05:32,725 po dobu asi �tyroch hod�n zo �estn�stich, ktor� sme tam str�vili. 860 01:05:32,726 --> 01:05:34,811 Zaspali sme asi na �tyri hodiny, 861 01:05:34,812 --> 01:05:36,604 ale akon�hle do�iel kysl�k, 862 01:05:36,605 --> 01:05:41,025 okam�ite sme sa kv�li zime zobudili. 863 01:05:41,045 --> 01:05:45,488 Po cel� �as si myslel: "Zajtra nebudem kysl�k potrebova�." 864 01:05:45,489 --> 01:05:48,283 Nastala ale jedna chyba. 865 01:05:48,284 --> 01:05:51,703 Vyvliekli so sebou obrovsk� �iernu kysl�kov� bombu, 866 01:05:51,704 --> 01:05:53,997 z ktorej kysl�k pl�novali pou�i� na spanie. 867 01:05:53,998 --> 01:05:56,082 Ale nane��astie po jej vynesen� 868 01:05:56,083 --> 01:05:58,751 zistili, �e niekto odniesol nasp� dole rozvodku, 869 01:05:58,752 --> 01:06:02,130 tak�e f�a�a bola nepou�ite�n�. 870 01:06:03,215 --> 01:06:05,884 Nebol som �plne presved�en�, 871 01:06:05,885 --> 01:06:09,095 �i uspejeme. 872 01:06:12,516 --> 01:06:14,559 Dobre som si bol vedom� skuto�nosti, 873 01:06:14,560 --> 01:06:17,395 �e o horu sa pok��ali ve�mi dobr� exped�cie, 874 01:06:17,396 --> 01:06:21,816 dostali sa ve�mi vysoko, ale aj tak neboli �spe�n�. 875 01:06:29,700 --> 01:06:34,037 R�no o pol siedmej sme vy�li zo stanov. 876 01:06:35,122 --> 01:06:39,959 Nestr�cali sme zbyto�ne �as pr�pravou kysl�kov�ho pr�stroja a zariadenia. 877 01:06:42,922 --> 01:06:45,423 V tomto bode to bolo v�etko iba o kysl�ku. 878 01:06:45,424 --> 01:06:47,675 Hillary o �om neust�le prem���al: 879 01:06:47,676 --> 01:06:49,719 "Ko�ko kysl�ka budeme potrebova�?" 880 01:06:49,720 --> 01:06:52,263 "Bude ho s�la� dostatok?" 881 01:06:52,264 --> 01:06:55,767 "Pri v��om mno�stve sa c�tim lep�ie," 882 01:06:55,768 --> 01:06:59,354 "ale zase r�chlej�ie miniem f�a�u." 883 01:07:08,864 --> 01:07:10,824 Bola ve�mi ve�k� zima. 884 01:07:10,825 --> 01:07:13,576 Namerali pod -25 stup�ov. 885 01:07:13,577 --> 01:07:17,372 Tak�to chlad "do �piku kost�" 886 01:07:17,373 --> 01:07:19,332 je ako �tok... 887 01:07:19,333 --> 01:07:22,377 ozaj desiv�. 888 01:07:22,711 --> 01:07:25,505 T�mov� psychol�g povedal: "Ke� ste vo vysokej nadmorskej v��ke," 889 01:07:25,506 --> 01:07:27,966 "pri lezen� sa v�m mus� dost�va� kysl�k" 890 01:07:27,967 --> 01:07:29,884 "r�chlos�ou �tyri litre za min�tu." 891 01:07:29,885 --> 01:07:34,722 "Pri men�ej hodnote z neho nem�te skuto�n� prospech." 892 01:07:35,474 --> 01:07:38,560 N� postup bol zo za�iatku celkom stabiln�, 893 01:07:38,561 --> 01:07:40,311 ale akoko�vek sme sa zaoberali dod�vkou kysl�ka, 894 01:07:40,312 --> 01:07:42,981 zistili sme, �e sa nem��eme dosta� na po�adovan� �tyri litre za min�tu, 895 01:07:42,982 --> 01:07:44,983 ak chceme ma� �ancu dosiahnu� vrchol. 896 01:07:44,984 --> 01:07:47,777 Museli sme ju zn�i� na tri. 897 01:07:52,116 --> 01:07:57,245 Pomerne jednoduch� prepo�et prietoku kysl�ka 898 01:07:57,246 --> 01:08:00,165 je hore neuverite�ne zlo�it�, 899 01:08:00,166 --> 01:08:05,628 preto�e kv�li nedostatku kysl�ka ste zm�ten�. 900 01:08:43,167 --> 01:08:44,876 Za nejak� �as 901 01:08:44,877 --> 01:08:47,170 sme dosiahli dno 120 m svahu, 902 01:08:47,171 --> 01:08:49,547 ktor� viedol na Ju�n� vrchol. 903 01:08:49,548 --> 01:08:53,468 Tento svah bol nesmierne prudk�. 904 01:08:54,845 --> 01:08:59,307 C�tili sme, �e z tohto snehu m��e �ahko vznikn�� lav�na. 905 01:08:59,558 --> 01:09:01,601 Ke� dr�� trocha srie�, 906 01:09:01,602 --> 01:09:03,686 zd� sa ti, akoby si st�l na pevnej zemi. 907 01:09:03,687 --> 01:09:06,105 Ke�e je naspodu pr�kov� sneh, �ahko sa m��e da� do pohybu. 908 01:09:06,106 --> 01:09:08,733 To Hillaryho znepokojovalo. 909 01:09:08,734 --> 01:09:11,653 Kv�li strachu z lav�ny 910 01:09:11,654 --> 01:09:14,656 mali aj tak�to rozhovor. 911 01:09:14,657 --> 01:09:17,283 Spom�nam si, �e som sa obr�til na Tenzinga a povedal mu: 912 01:09:17,284 --> 01:09:19,494 "�o si o tom mysl�, Tenzing?" 913 01:09:19,495 --> 01:09:21,246 Povedal, �e sa mu to v�bec nep��i. 914 01:09:21,247 --> 01:09:23,998 Us�dil, �e je to rozhodne nebezpe�n�. 915 01:09:29,547 --> 01:09:31,172 Potom som mu povedal: "Ako teda mysl�," 916 01:09:31,173 --> 01:09:32,799 "m�me �s� �alej?" 917 01:09:32,800 --> 01:09:36,594 On odpovedal: "Nech�m to na teba." 918 01:09:38,556 --> 01:09:44,144 Liezli sme hore so zna�nou d�vkou strachu a �zkosti. 919 01:09:46,313 --> 01:09:49,858 Mysl�m, �e prv�kr�t v �ivote som sa musel rozhodnu�, 920 01:09:49,859 --> 01:09:52,819 �i je nie�o ospravedlnite�n� alebo nie. 921 01:09:52,820 --> 01:09:57,198 Rozhodne to ospravedlnite�n� nebolo, ale aj tak sme pokra�ovali. 922 01:09:59,827 --> 01:10:02,412 Si priamo na okraji nemo�n�ho 923 01:10:02,413 --> 01:10:06,374 a ka�d�m krokom si st�le vo v��om nebezpe�enstve. 924 01:10:06,375 --> 01:10:10,795 Vtedy je poku�enie oto�i� sa a �s� dole ozaj siln�. 925 01:10:14,300 --> 01:10:16,467 Boj�m sa pr�li� dlho zost�va� 926 01:10:16,468 --> 01:10:18,511 v nebezpe�nom ter�ne. 927 01:10:18,512 --> 01:10:22,849 Ale mysl�m, �e strach je jedn�m z d�le�it�ch faktorov. 928 01:10:23,142 --> 01:10:26,269 Je to stimuluj�ci faktor. 929 01:10:26,437 --> 01:10:29,105 Samozrejme, �e ke� "skamenie�" od strachu, 930 01:10:29,106 --> 01:10:32,066 potom je to bezn�dejn�. 931 01:10:42,244 --> 01:10:45,371 Jadrom toho je, �i dok�e� pre�i� alebo nie. 932 01:10:45,372 --> 01:10:47,499 Vie�, �e tam hore nem� ni� garantovan�. 933 01:10:47,500 --> 01:10:50,251 Ak sa ti tam nie�o stane, 934 01:10:50,252 --> 01:10:52,795 aj relat�vne ban�lna nehoda, 935 01:10:52,796 --> 01:10:57,967 ve�mi r�chlo m��e prer�s� do smrte�nej. 936 01:11:03,182 --> 01:11:04,849 Nastala ve�k� ��ava, 937 01:11:04,850 --> 01:11:07,811 ke� sme o deviatej dosiahli Ju�n� vrchol. 938 01:11:09,355 --> 01:11:10,939 Kysl�k sa r�chlo m��al, 939 01:11:10,940 --> 01:11:15,610 preto sme nestr�cali �as a vyrazili na hrebe�. 940 01:11:18,989 --> 01:11:23,827 Pokra�ovali sme ale pomaly a �as bol proti n�m. 941 01:11:29,917 --> 01:11:33,253 Evans a Bourdillon ke� dosiahli Ju�n� vrchol, 942 01:11:33,254 --> 01:11:37,841 mali v�hrady vo�i trase pred sebou. 943 01:11:38,342 --> 01:11:42,637 Evans podotkol, �e sa jedn� o ve�mi obtia�ny ostr� hrebe�. 944 01:11:42,638 --> 01:11:44,889 Je z�bkovan� 945 01:11:44,890 --> 01:11:49,144 s hrozn�mi prevismi na oboch stran�ch. 946 01:11:49,145 --> 01:11:54,357 Museli ma� obavy, �i to dok�u vyliez�. 947 01:11:57,194 --> 01:11:59,154 Na�avo m�te 948 01:11:59,155 --> 01:12:00,738 obrovsk� juhoz�padn� stenu Everestu. 949 01:12:00,739 --> 01:12:02,282 Ak by ste �ou padli dole, 950 01:12:02,283 --> 01:12:04,784 pravdepodobne by ste sa zastavili a� v Z�padnom kotli - 951 01:12:04,785 --> 01:12:07,662 o 2500 v��kov�ch metrov nadol. 952 01:12:09,373 --> 01:12:12,458 Sprava je e�te v��ia priepas� - 953 01:12:12,459 --> 01:12:14,711 stena Kang�ung. 954 01:12:14,712 --> 01:12:17,672 To v�m ur�ite s�stred� myse�. 955 01:12:21,302 --> 01:12:22,886 Pre horolezca 956 01:12:22,887 --> 01:12:24,929 je my�lienka o procese umierania 957 01:12:24,930 --> 01:12:26,764 viac nepr�jemn�, 958 01:12:26,765 --> 01:12:31,102 ne� skuto�nos�, �e na jej konci m��e� by� m�tvy. 959 01:12:39,195 --> 01:12:43,615 Dobu pozorovania zo �tvrt�ho t�bora 960 01:12:43,616 --> 01:12:48,369 sme pre��vali ve�mi �zkostlivo. 961 01:12:52,917 --> 01:12:55,960 Samozrejme, d�fali sme, �e na�e mal� vysiela�ky 962 01:12:55,961 --> 01:12:58,296 vydr�ia aspo� do Ju�n�ho sedla, 963 01:12:58,297 --> 01:13:01,341 ale t�, �o bolo vynesen� do Ju�n�ho sedla, nepracovala. 964 01:13:01,342 --> 01:13:04,260 T�m p�dom sme si boli vydom�, �e nebudeme vedie�, 965 01:13:04,261 --> 01:13:07,138 �i boli Hillary s Tenzingom �spe�n�, 966 01:13:07,139 --> 01:13:11,518 k�m nepr�du dole a nepovedia n�m to. 967 01:13:14,480 --> 01:13:18,858 Nikto ani netu�il, kde s�, ako id�, 968 01:13:18,859 --> 01:13:23,571 �i boli �spe�n� alebo sa vracaj� dole. 969 01:13:35,709 --> 01:13:37,585 Na�e kysl�kov� zariadenie 970 01:13:37,586 --> 01:13:39,420 nebolo v �iadnom pr�pade najmodernej�ie. 971 01:13:39,421 --> 01:13:42,173 Malo iba tlakomer, 972 01:13:42,174 --> 01:13:47,053 tak�e sme v�bec nevedeli, ko�ko kysl�ka v �om e�te zost�va. 973 01:13:47,054 --> 01:13:50,223 Mozog mi pracoval dos� energicky, 974 01:13:50,224 --> 01:13:54,519 aby spo��tal, ko�ko �asu n�m zost�va. 975 01:13:58,691 --> 01:14:01,943 Jeden z probl�mov lezenia v extr�mnych nadmorsk�ch v��kach 976 01:14:01,944 --> 01:14:04,028 je zlyhanie kysl�kov�ch syst�mov. 977 01:14:04,029 --> 01:14:10,577 Ke� d�jde kysl�k, �udia nezriedka zomieraj�. 978 01:14:10,744 --> 01:14:12,912 Zrazu nastal mal� probl�m. 979 01:14:12,913 --> 01:14:14,497 Tenzing prest�val vl�da� 980 01:14:14,498 --> 01:14:18,126 nasledova� Hillaryho. 981 01:14:20,379 --> 01:14:21,921 Zrazu som si v�imol, 982 01:14:21,922 --> 01:14:24,757 �e Tenzing chyt� ak�si kr�zu. 983 01:14:24,758 --> 01:14:26,634 Ke� som sa na neho pozrel bli��ie, 984 01:14:26,635 --> 01:14:29,179 videl som, �e d�cha pr�li� r�chlo. 985 01:14:29,180 --> 01:14:31,431 Okam�ite som presk�mal jeho kysl�ko� pr�stroj 986 01:14:31,432 --> 01:14:34,517 a zistil som, �e v�stup z jeho kysl�kovej masky 987 01:14:34,518 --> 01:14:38,271 bol takmer �plne zablokovan� �adom. 988 01:14:42,234 --> 01:14:45,945 Na��astie som bol ten �ad schopn� uvo�ni�. 989 01:14:48,908 --> 01:14:50,658 Vzh�adom k n�hlej hypoxii 990 01:14:50,659 --> 01:14:52,535 m� spomalen� myslenie. 991 01:14:52,536 --> 01:14:54,370 Preto nem��e� okam�ite pochopi�: 992 01:14:54,371 --> 01:14:57,123 "Ach, to je preto, lebo kysl�kov� pr�stroj nepracuje spr�vne." 993 01:14:57,124 --> 01:15:01,628 Sk�r si pomysl�: "Ach, Bo�e... ak�si som zrazu ve�mi unaven�." 994 01:15:08,135 --> 01:15:13,389 Vtedy m� �udn�, �ahko surrealistick� rozostrenie 995 01:15:13,390 --> 01:15:18,394 obrazov, my�lienok a n�padov, hm�riacich sa v tvojej hlave. 996 01:15:24,360 --> 01:15:30,740 Preto sa mus�te navz�jom ve�mi starostlivo kontrolova�. 997 01:15:56,433 --> 01:15:57,976 Asi po hodine 998 01:15:57,977 --> 01:16:01,020 sme mali za sebou celkom ve�k� kus hrebe�a. 999 01:16:01,021 --> 01:16:03,648 Vtedy sme do�li na skaln� �tes, 1000 01:16:03,649 --> 01:16:05,942 ktor� n�m zatarasil cestu po hrebeni. 1001 01:16:05,943 --> 01:16:09,904 Vtedy som si u� ozaj myslel, �e �alej ned�jdeme. 1002 01:16:11,615 --> 01:16:13,158 Vyfotil som to, 1003 01:16:13,159 --> 01:16:15,410 preto�e t�to skala bola ve�mi strm� 1004 01:16:15,411 --> 01:16:18,872 a vedeli sme, �e n�s m��e zastavi�. 1005 01:16:24,628 --> 01:16:29,132 Je tak�to v��vih v�bec zlezite�n�? 1006 01:16:30,009 --> 01:16:35,138 A e�te k tomu vo v��ke 8800 metrov? 1007 01:16:35,681 --> 01:16:38,808 Nikto nikdy tam predt�m nebol. 1008 01:16:39,268 --> 01:16:42,103 Je to pekeln� v��vih. 1009 01:16:43,022 --> 01:16:48,067 Pozer�te na to s pomyslen�m: "Ach, m�j Bo�e... �o teraz?" 1010 01:16:50,863 --> 01:16:53,990 Ale Sir Ed vzal na seba to riziko a povedal: 1011 01:16:53,991 --> 01:16:57,702 "Sakra... idem na to!" 1012 01:17:02,249 --> 01:17:05,335 Jedin� mo�n� cesta sa mi zdala cez prasklinu, 1013 01:17:05,336 --> 01:17:08,922 kde bol na skale nalepen� �ad. 1014 01:17:08,923 --> 01:17:13,760 Nebol som si celkom ist�, �i �ad vydr�� na svojom mieste, 1015 01:17:13,761 --> 01:17:17,013 ke� som sa vydal nahor. 1016 01:17:20,017 --> 01:17:23,436 Ve�mi som sa b�l. 1017 01:17:27,441 --> 01:17:31,361 Pri v�stupe na tento takmer kolm� v��vih 1018 01:17:31,362 --> 01:17:34,989 sa zasek�val v tomto kom�ne viacmenej nohami. 1019 01:17:34,990 --> 01:17:39,494 Jeho stiesnen�mi nohami tla�il v�avo na skalu, 1020 01:17:39,495 --> 01:17:43,873 a chrb�t mal zapret� vpravo v snehu 1021 01:17:43,874 --> 01:17:46,793 a iba d�fal, �e sneh vydr�� 1022 01:17:46,794 --> 01:17:50,672 a nekatapultuje ho dole 3500-metrovou stenou Kang�ung, 1023 01:17:50,673 --> 01:17:55,176 vzh�adom k tomu, �e je sporn�, �i by ho Norgay dok�zal pri p�de 1024 01:17:55,177 --> 01:17:58,680 udr�a� na lane. 1025 01:18:19,952 --> 01:18:22,287 Odlamovali sa mal� dosky. 1026 01:18:22,288 --> 01:18:26,624 Tieto podmienky rozhodne neboli pre otca potechou. 1027 01:18:27,585 --> 01:18:29,752 Keby bol nasp� v Ju�n�ch Alp�ch, 1028 01:18:29,753 --> 01:18:32,881 pravdepodobne by sa oto�il a sk�sil to �al�� de�. 1029 01:18:32,882 --> 01:18:35,967 Tu mu ale jeho vn�torn� hlas hovoril: 1030 01:18:35,968 --> 01:18:39,012 "Ed, chlap�e m�j... toto je Everest," 1031 01:18:39,013 --> 01:18:42,557 "mus� sa dosta� �o najvy��ie!" 1032 01:18:49,106 --> 01:18:52,609 Zasek�van�m mojich "ma�iek" do �adu zozadu, 1033 01:18:52,610 --> 01:18:54,694 �adov�ch hrotov na mojich top�nkach, 1034 01:18:54,695 --> 01:18:56,988 a lezen�m na skalu spredu, 1035 01:18:56,989 --> 01:19:02,535 som bol schopn� akosi sa pretla�i� trhlinou a� na vrchol. 1036 01:19:04,205 --> 01:19:07,373 Po vyd�chan� sa, som zobral lano 1037 01:19:07,374 --> 01:19:09,042 a star�ho Tenzinga 1038 01:19:09,043 --> 01:19:12,253 s ve�kou z�a�ou som tadia� pretl��al, 1039 01:19:12,254 --> 01:19:15,798 a� som ho taktie� dostal na vrchol skaly. 1040 01:19:17,843 --> 01:19:19,886 S� chv�le v �ivote, 1041 01:19:19,887 --> 01:19:22,680 v ktor�ch m� by� odv�ny a rozhodn�. 1042 01:19:22,681 --> 01:19:28,520 Tak ve�a z�viselo na Hillaryho schopnostich zdola� v�etky prek�ky, 1043 01:19:28,521 --> 01:19:32,941 a on bol pri tom e�te schopn� prida� nie�o naviac. 1044 01:19:40,991 --> 01:19:43,535 Ke� musel Hunt z�s� z Ju�n�ho sedla, 1045 01:19:43,536 --> 01:19:45,745 obr�til sa k Edovi a povedal mu: 1046 01:19:45,746 --> 01:19:48,748 "Pozri... toto je na�a posledn� �anca." 1047 01:19:48,749 --> 01:19:52,836 "Na svoje plecia si berie� ve�k� bremeno �udsk�ch n�dej�." 1048 01:19:54,463 --> 01:19:57,674 �o by sme urobili, ak by sa to nepodarilo? 1049 01:19:57,675 --> 01:20:01,094 Vzh�adom k tom, �e z�sadn� bol pocit Johna Hunta, 1050 01:20:01,095 --> 01:20:06,224 nemysl�m, �e by sa niekto odv�il vyjadri� svoj n�zor. 1051 01:20:17,945 --> 01:20:19,904 Pokra�ovali sme... 1052 01:20:19,905 --> 01:20:22,157 ale boli sme st�le viac a viac unaven� a z�fal�. 1053 01:20:22,158 --> 01:20:25,869 Zdalo sa, akoby samotn� vrchol pred nami neust�le unikal. 1054 01:20:29,999 --> 01:20:32,083 Za Hillaryho v��vihom 1055 01:20:32,084 --> 01:20:35,712 je na vrchol e�te st�le horizont�lne dos� �aleko. 1056 01:20:35,713 --> 01:20:40,925 Mus�te prejs� e�te tri-�tyri roz�ahl� pahorky. 1057 01:20:41,260 --> 01:20:43,887 Ke� prejdete hrebe�om cez jeden, 1058 01:20:43,888 --> 01:20:46,097 za n�m sa objav� �al�� 1059 01:20:46,098 --> 01:20:49,893 a vy si pomysl�te: "M� tento hrebe� v�bec koniec?" 1060 01:21:01,197 --> 01:21:04,282 Iba niektor� �udsk� bytosti 1061 01:21:04,283 --> 01:21:06,659 s� tu schopn� preklada� jednu nohu cez druh�. 1062 01:21:06,660 --> 01:21:11,498 S� schopn� ne�navne, psychologicky to robi�, 1063 01:21:11,499 --> 01:21:14,709 zatia� �o ostatn�m sa to nepodar�. 1064 01:21:21,217 --> 01:21:23,968 Rezali sme kroky k vrcholu, rana za ranou, 1065 01:21:23,969 --> 01:21:26,930 neust�le h�adiac k nemu... 1066 01:21:28,307 --> 01:21:32,894 a� sme ho predsa len kone�ne dosiahli. 1067 01:22:26,073 --> 01:22:28,658 Pozrel som na Tenzinga 1068 01:22:28,659 --> 01:22:31,661 a dokonca aj cez jeho kysl�kov� masku a kuklu 1069 01:22:31,662 --> 01:22:34,664 som videl jeho n�kazliv� �smev a pote�enie. 1070 01:22:34,665 --> 01:22:36,791 Podali sme si ruky. 1071 01:22:36,792 --> 01:22:40,253 Tenzingovi to nesta�ilo, 1072 01:22:41,213 --> 01:22:43,173 tak sme st�skali jeden druh�ho, 1073 01:22:43,174 --> 01:22:46,134 k�m n�m dych sta�il. 1074 01:22:47,052 --> 01:22:51,347 Pozrel som hodinky... bolo 11:30. 1075 01:22:59,523 --> 01:23:02,567 Na vrchole sme str�vili iba �tvr�hodinu. 1076 01:23:02,568 --> 01:23:06,070 Cel� �as sme si boli vedom�, �e n�m doch�dza kysl�k. 1077 01:23:06,071 --> 01:23:10,283 Nesmeli sme str�ca� �as a museli �s� znova dole. 1078 01:23:10,910 --> 01:23:14,913 Dal som si dole kysl�k, aby som mohol fotografova�. 1079 01:23:17,791 --> 01:23:20,502 Tenzing vyhrabal do snehu mal� dierku, 1080 01:23:20,503 --> 01:23:24,839 do ktorej vlo�il dar bohov. 1081 01:23:29,053 --> 01:23:30,970 Mali sme pekn� v�h�ad. 1082 01:23:30,971 --> 01:23:32,680 Odfotografoval som 1083 01:23:32,681 --> 01:23:34,766 cel� hlavn� hrebe� pod nami, 1084 01:23:34,767 --> 01:23:38,394 aby sme mali nejak� d�kaz, �e sme boli na vrchole. 1085 01:23:48,781 --> 01:23:54,369 Pri fotografovan� Tenzing m�val svojim cep�nom, na ktorom mal priviazan� �tyri vlajky. 1086 01:23:55,538 --> 01:23:58,581 Bol to ��asn� moment pre n�s oboch. 1087 01:24:10,082 --> 01:24:15,069 29. m�ja 1953 o 11:30 dosiahli Novoz�lan�an Edmund Hillary a �erpa Tenzing Norgay 1088 01:24:15,070 --> 01:24:20,070 vo v��ke 8850 metrov nad morom vrchol Mount Everestu - najvy��� bod Zeme. 1089 01:24:20,020 --> 01:24:25,006 Spr�va o �spechu britskej exped�cie dorazila do Lond�na 2. j�na, 1090 01:24:25,007 --> 01:24:30,007 v de� korunov�cie kr�ovnej Al�bety. 1091 01:24:30,084 --> 01:24:35,071 Edmund Hillary zhrnul svoj �spech jeho priate�ovi Georgovi Lowemu 1092 01:24:35,072 --> 01:24:40,072 do jednej vety... "Zrazili sme toho bastarda."93073

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