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Preklad z anglick�ch titulkov:
M. M.
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00:00:20,309 --> 00:00:24,395
V roku 1953 prebiehal s�boj
o v�stup na dovtedy
3
00:00:24,396 --> 00:00:28,396
nezdolan� vrchol najvy��ej hory sveta -
Mount Everest.
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00:00:28,463 --> 00:00:32,449
V tom roku viedol britsk� exped�ciu
plukovn�k John Hunt.
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00:00:32,450 --> 00:00:36,450
Bol to najambici�znej�� pokus hist�rie.
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00:00:36,501 --> 00:00:45,788
Medzi horolezcami bol aj 33-ro�n� v�el�r
z Nov�ho Z�landu - Edmund Hillary.
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00:00:52,721 --> 00:00:54,430
Dnes s� Himal�je ako...
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00:00:54,975 --> 00:00:57,268
Dobre, najsk�r sa predstavme.
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00:00:57,269 --> 00:01:01,896
Ed Hillary, ve�mi zauj�mav� osobnos�
v alpskom svete.
10
00:01:01,897 --> 00:01:04,190
- Dobr� r�no, Ed.
- Dobr� r�no.
11
00:01:04,191 --> 00:01:06,609
Ko�ko bolo u� na Evereste
uskuto�nen�ch pokusov.
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00:01:06,610 --> 00:01:08,736
Minim�lne desa�.
13
00:01:08,737 --> 00:01:10,613
Pre�o doteraz v�etky zlyhali?
14
00:01:10,614 --> 00:01:13,616
Kv�li nespr�vnej kombin�cii okolnost�.
15
00:01:13,617 --> 00:01:16,035
Mysl�te, �e Everest je mo�n� vyliez�?
16
00:01:16,036 --> 00:01:18,288
�no, rozhodne si mysl�m,
�e je to mo�n�.
17
00:01:18,289 --> 00:01:21,207
Ur�ite sa to jedn�ho d�a podar�.
18
00:01:33,470 --> 00:01:38,766
Je tomu 60 rokov,
svet bol �plne in�...
19
00:01:38,767 --> 00:01:41,186
a predstava, �e bude� prv�m �lovekom,
20
00:01:41,187 --> 00:01:43,605
�o bude st�
na najvy��om bode Zeme.
21
00:01:43,606 --> 00:01:48,443
T��ba...
romantick� t��ba.
22
00:02:00,080 --> 00:02:03,208
O v�stup na najvy��� vrch
sa viedol ozajstn� s�boj.
23
00:02:03,209 --> 00:02:05,001
Nielen Brit�nia,
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00:02:05,002 --> 00:02:07,086
aj in� n�rody st�li v z�stupe.
25
00:02:07,087 --> 00:02:12,342
Pre Brit�niu to bola fakticky
posledn� �anca urva� t�to ve�k� cenu.
26
00:02:22,311 --> 00:02:26,731
Nikto neveel, �i je mo�n� pre�i�
v 8850-tich metroch.
27
00:02:26,815 --> 00:02:32,362
Akoby �li chalani
prekro�i� hranice vesm�ru...
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00:02:33,614 --> 00:02:38,284
dosiahnu� fyziologick� limit,
�o m��e �udsk� organizmus znies�.
29
00:02:38,285 --> 00:02:40,161
Som presved�en�, �e nechceli zomrie�,
30
00:02:40,162 --> 00:02:45,250
ale boli ochotn� riskova� tam,
kde smr� je jedn�m z v�sledkov.
31
00:02:53,008 --> 00:02:56,302
Idete do nezn�ma.
32
00:02:56,387 --> 00:02:58,513
D� sa to v�bec dok�za�?
33
00:02:58,514 --> 00:03:03,977
V roku 1953 to bola ot�zka
s ve�k�m ot�znikom.
34
00:03:12,319 --> 00:03:16,406
Mysl�m, �e to bola ot�zka v�zvy...
35
00:03:17,324 --> 00:03:20,660
ani nie tak k hore samej,
36
00:03:20,661 --> 00:03:23,705
ako k sebe sam�mu...
37
00:03:23,706 --> 00:03:28,626
dok�za� prem�c� vlastn� strach
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00:03:28,627 --> 00:03:32,297
a d�fa�, �e sa nakoniec
dostanete na vrchol.
39
00:03:52,298 --> 00:03:57,384
ZA HRANU
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00:03:57,823 --> 00:04:01,159
CESTOU K EVERESTU
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00:04:01,202 --> 00:04:03,077
�lenovia britskej exped�cie na Everest
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00:04:03,078 --> 00:04:05,038
sa za�ali sch�dza� na subkontinente,
43
00:04:05,039 --> 00:04:06,789
kde z�stupca ved�ceho v�pravy,
major Wylie,
44
00:04:06,790 --> 00:04:09,083
t��obne o�ak�va
nadch�dzaj�ce dobrodru�stvo.
45
00:04:09,084 --> 00:04:11,377
Sme ve�mi radi,
�e prv� etapa
46
00:04:11,378 --> 00:04:14,214
na�ej cesty pod Mount Everest
je za nami.
47
00:04:14,215 --> 00:04:16,758
M��eme vyrazi� do h�r.
48
00:04:16,759 --> 00:04:19,552
Ak ku koncu m�ja natraf�me
na dobr� po�asie
49
00:04:19,553 --> 00:04:21,554
pred pr�chodom monz�nu,
50
00:04:21,555 --> 00:04:24,224
mali by sme ma� �ancu
dosta� sa na vrchol.
51
00:04:43,273 --> 00:04:44,860
BRITSK� VE�VYSLANECTVO
52
00:04:57,466 --> 00:05:00,176
K exped�cii som sa pripojil
53
00:05:00,177 --> 00:05:04,013
na Britskom ve�vyslanectve v K�thmandu.
54
00:05:04,098 --> 00:05:08,560
Exped�cia mala 13 �lenov zo z�padu.
55
00:05:08,561 --> 00:05:13,481
John Hunt, vysl��il� arm�dny d�stojn�k,
bol ved�cim exped�cie.
56
00:05:13,524 --> 00:05:15,650
Nikdy som o �om nepo�ul,
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00:05:15,651 --> 00:05:19,571
a� k�m som ho prv�kr�t nestretol
vtedy v K�thmandu.
58
00:05:19,655 --> 00:05:23,032
Preferoval som �ud�,
ktor�ch som poznal u� predt�m,
59
00:05:23,033 --> 00:05:25,910
preto bol Ed u m�a ve�k� nezn�ma.
60
00:05:25,911 --> 00:05:28,413
M��em ale poveda�,
�e od prv�ho momentu, ke� som ho zbadal,
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00:05:28,414 --> 00:05:31,958
som vedel, �e je tu niekto
s dominantnou autoritou.
62
00:05:31,959 --> 00:05:36,129
Vy�nieval nad v�etk�mi.
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00:05:36,839 --> 00:05:39,048
P�n Hillary,
pre zauj�mavos�...
64
00:05:39,049 --> 00:05:40,967
ako dlho sa venujete lezectvu?
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00:05:40,968 --> 00:05:42,719
Lezectvu sa venujem... mysl�m...
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00:05:42,720 --> 00:05:44,929
zhruba 10 rokov.
67
00:05:44,930 --> 00:05:47,724
Ko�ko v�stupov mimo Nov�ho Z�landu
u� m�te za sebou?
68
00:05:47,725 --> 00:05:52,145
Bol som na nieko�k�ch exped�ciach
v Himal�jach.
69
00:05:54,398 --> 00:05:57,442
Vychovan� ste boli dos� striktne, je tak?
70
00:05:57,443 --> 00:05:59,861
Vyrastal som po�as kr�zy.
71
00:05:59,862 --> 00:06:05,909
V tom obdob� finan�ne
na tom moja rodina nebola pr�li� dobre.
72
00:06:06,869 --> 00:06:10,079
Bol som oby�ajn� vidiecky chlapec.
73
00:06:10,080 --> 00:06:12,123
- V�el�r.
- V�el�r.
74
00:06:12,124 --> 00:06:16,586
Bl�dil som okolo na�ej farmy,
sn�vaj�c o ve�k�ch dobrodru�stv�ch,
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00:06:16,587 --> 00:06:20,548
v�stupoch v hor�ch a pod.
76
00:06:21,425 --> 00:06:23,218
Ak� kontrast medzi
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00:06:23,219 --> 00:06:25,094
v�el�rstvom na jednej strane
a lezen�m na druhej.
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00:06:25,095 --> 00:06:26,679
Ani nie...
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00:06:26,680 --> 00:06:28,306
Ako v�el�r som sa neust�le
80
00:06:28,307 --> 00:06:31,392
to�il okolo 35 kg boxov medu.
81
00:06:31,393 --> 00:06:34,646
Aj m�j brat bol v�el�r.
Medzi sebou sme s��a�ili.
82
00:06:34,647 --> 00:06:36,731
Mysl�m, �e zmysel s��a�e
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00:06:36,732 --> 00:06:40,985
mal vplyv na moje horolezeck� aktivity.
84
00:06:48,244 --> 00:06:54,123
Cel� t�m sa vyformoval v K�thmandu.
85
00:06:54,625 --> 00:06:57,836
�akalo n�s 17 dn� pochodu do Tengbo�e,
86
00:06:57,837 --> 00:07:01,589
ktor� sa malo sta�
na�im prv�m z�kladn�m t�borom.
87
00:07:04,218 --> 00:07:06,469
Postupne sme museli prejs�
88
00:07:06,470 --> 00:07:08,596
vysok� hrebene a hlbok� �dolia.
89
00:07:08,597 --> 00:07:10,473
Postupne sme si zlep�ovali kond�ciu
90
00:07:10,474 --> 00:07:16,104
a �o je najd�le�itej�ie,
upev�ovali sa ako t�m.
91
00:07:26,448 --> 00:07:29,450
V�etko bolo premyslen�
do najmen�ieho detailu.
92
00:07:29,451 --> 00:07:32,370
7,5 tony materi�lu,
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00:07:32,371 --> 00:07:35,748
443 debien, v�etky o��slovan�,
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00:07:35,749 --> 00:07:41,379
s obsahom, zap�san�m do poslednej
z�palkovej krabi�ky, alebo ihly.
95
00:07:43,674 --> 00:07:45,550
Je to t�mov� exped�cia.
96
00:07:45,551 --> 00:07:49,387
Ve�mi ve�a z�vis�
na forme pyram�dov�ho �silia.
97
00:07:49,471 --> 00:07:53,474
13 �lenov exped�cie zo z�padu,
98
00:07:53,559 --> 00:07:56,060
30 st�lych v��kov�ch �erpov.
99
00:07:56,061 --> 00:08:00,023
T� sa bud� stara� o vyn�ku na�ej v�bavy
do vy���ch nadmorsk�ch v��ok.
100
00:08:00,024 --> 00:08:02,984
�al��ch 600 nep�lskych nosi�ov
101
00:08:02,985 --> 00:08:07,572
prepravuje n�klady z celej krajiny
do na�ich lezeck�ch oblast�.
102
00:08:11,744 --> 00:08:13,536
Ke�e na hore u� prebehlo
103
00:08:13,537 --> 00:08:16,080
sedem britsk�ch pokusov o v�stup,
104
00:08:16,081 --> 00:08:19,792
c�tili sme, �e ako prv� na vrchole
maj� pr�vo by� lezci z Brit�nie,
105
00:08:19,793 --> 00:08:22,045
alebo z britsk�ho Commonwealthu.
106
00:08:22,046 --> 00:08:26,549
�vaj�iari sa takmer
dostali na vrchol v roku 1952,
107
00:08:26,550 --> 00:08:28,885
Ameri�ania �akali na svoju pr�le�itos�.
108
00:08:28,886 --> 00:08:31,304
A tak tu bol obrovsk� tlak
na Johna Hunta
109
00:08:31,305 --> 00:08:38,144
s kolos�lnym o�ak�van�m,
�e v tejto �lohe uspeje.
110
00:08:42,107 --> 00:08:44,234
P�n Hillary, ko�ko Novoz�lan�anov
111
00:08:44,235 --> 00:08:46,027
je v tohtoro�nej exped�cii?
112
00:08:46,028 --> 00:08:50,615
Iba dvaja... George Lowe a ja.
113
00:08:50,699 --> 00:08:52,784
George Lowe a m�j otec
boli ve�k� priatelia.
114
00:08:52,785 --> 00:08:56,204
�asto liezci v Ju�n�ch Alp�ch
na Novom Z�lande.
115
00:08:56,205 --> 00:08:58,414
Spolu tvorili
v�born� lezeck� dvojicu,
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00:08:58,415 --> 00:09:02,418
ve�mi dobre si rozumeli.
117
00:09:07,466 --> 00:09:10,552
Po�as 18-d�ov�ho putovania
118
00:09:10,553 --> 00:09:13,680
sme spozn�vali jeden druh�ho.
119
00:09:13,681 --> 00:09:16,224
Neust�le sme pritom
po��vali mierne nar�ky
120
00:09:16,225 --> 00:09:19,519
na Novoz�lan�anov.
121
00:09:19,979 --> 00:09:23,898
S Edom sme boli absolventi
be�nej strednej �koly,
122
00:09:23,899 --> 00:09:26,734
zato v��ina z nich, pravda�e,
123
00:09:26,735 --> 00:09:30,363
vychodila verejn� �koly.
124
00:09:32,491 --> 00:09:36,911
Nebolo poch�b, �e sme
poch�dzali z rozli�n�ch vrstiev.
125
00:09:47,923 --> 00:09:49,674
K�thmandu le�� iba
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00:09:49,675 --> 00:09:52,802
zhruba 1200 metrov nad morom,
127
00:09:52,845 --> 00:09:57,015
�p�tie Everestu
zhruba 5500 metrov nad morom.
128
00:09:57,391 --> 00:09:59,684
N� 17-d�ov� pribli�ovac� pochod
129
00:09:59,685 --> 00:10:02,145
bol neoddelite�nou s��as�ou m�jho pl�nu
130
00:10:02,146 --> 00:10:05,023
aklimatiz�cie.
131
00:10:06,192 --> 00:10:08,985
Cel� �as to bol z�vod s �asom,
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00:10:08,986 --> 00:10:12,697
neust�ly strach
pred pr�chodom monz�nu.
133
00:10:12,698 --> 00:10:14,449
Preto John Hunt povedal:
134
00:10:14,450 --> 00:10:19,329
"Chceme by� v poz�cii
vyst�pi� na Everest 15. m�ja."
135
00:10:19,330 --> 00:10:23,583
Nesk�r v m�ji sa neust�le zv��uje
mo�nos� pr�chodu monz�nu.
136
00:10:23,584 --> 00:10:26,878
V�dy je to z�vod s �asom.
137
00:10:30,508 --> 00:10:35,011
��m sme vystupovali vy��ie,
t�m sa zvy�ovalo aj na�e vzru�enie.
138
00:10:35,012 --> 00:10:40,058
Ukazovali sa n�m
st�le vy��ie a vy��ie �t�ty.
139
00:10:40,434 --> 00:10:46,022
A nad t�m sa t��il
vrchol pyram�dy Everestu,
140
00:10:46,023 --> 00:10:48,900
iba 20 m�� vzdialen�,
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00:10:48,901 --> 00:10:52,445
ale st�le 5500 metrov nad nami.
142
00:10:52,446 --> 00:10:55,823
P�n Hillary, liez� ste za�ali
na Novom Z�lande, je tak?
143
00:10:55,824 --> 00:10:57,742
�no, na Novom Z�lande.
144
00:11:04,792 --> 00:11:07,502
A tu je Mount Cook -
"Napichova� mrakov",
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00:11:07,503 --> 00:11:11,297
majest�tne sa k oblohe
vyp�naj�ci do v��ky 3724 metrov.
146
00:11:11,298 --> 00:11:13,174
S kamar�tom sme sa dohodli
147
00:11:13,175 --> 00:11:16,302
spravi� kr�tku t�ru k Mount Cooku.
148
00:11:16,428 --> 00:11:22,267
��m sme boli bli��ie,
t�m v���m dojmom na m�a hory p�sobili.
149
00:11:22,268 --> 00:11:24,143
Tieto rozoklan� vrcholy
150
00:11:24,144 --> 00:11:28,982
poskytuj� skuto�n�m alpinistom
jedny z najlep��ch lezen� mimo Eur�py.
151
00:11:29,733 --> 00:11:33,653
V t� noc pri�li do hotela "Hermitage",
kde som zostal,
152
00:11:33,654 --> 00:11:35,446
dvaja mlad� mu�i.
153
00:11:35,447 --> 00:11:41,244
V okol� som po�ul �epot:
"Pr�ve zdolali Mount Cook."
154
00:11:41,245 --> 00:11:44,372
T�to chalani boli ozaj "�iv�".
155
00:11:44,373 --> 00:11:47,834
Pomyslel som si:
"Ak� bezn�dejn� �ivot �ijem,"
156
00:11:47,835 --> 00:11:53,298
"�iadne ve�k� dobrodru�stv�,
ni� obzvl vzru�uj�ce."
157
00:11:56,051 --> 00:12:02,015
Vtedy som sa rozhodol,
�e sa budem trvalo venova� horolezectvu.
158
00:12:09,690 --> 00:12:11,941
Po 17-tich d�och
159
00:12:11,942 --> 00:12:18,573
dorazila na�a "karav�na" ku kl�toru
Tengbo�e vo v��ke 3867 metrov.
160
00:12:22,244 --> 00:12:24,579
Akon�hle dosiahli kl�tor Tengbo�e,
161
00:12:24,580 --> 00:12:27,874
dos� sa ochladilo.
162
00:12:29,335 --> 00:12:32,962
Nosi�i z n�in, ktor� mali odet�
preva�ne iba bavlnen� oble�enie,
163
00:12:32,963 --> 00:12:36,090
dostali v�platu
a vr�tili sa do ich ded�n.
164
00:12:36,091 --> 00:12:40,512
Ich pr�cu prevzali �erpsk� nosi�i.
165
00:12:41,347 --> 00:12:43,598
�erpovia, �o zostali na exped�cii,
166
00:12:43,599 --> 00:12:46,392
ak aj mali predch�dzaj�ce
sk�senosti s lezen�m,
167
00:12:46,393 --> 00:12:48,937
zaiste neboli pr�li� ve�k�.
168
00:12:48,938 --> 00:12:51,105
Tenzing bol v�nimkou,
169
00:12:51,106 --> 00:12:53,441
ten mal v tomto
pomerne ve�k� sk�senosti.
170
00:12:53,442 --> 00:12:55,485
V skuto�nosti mal viac sk�senost�
171
00:12:55,486 --> 00:12:58,947
s lezen�m na Mount Evereste,
ne� ktoko�vek in�.
172
00:13:02,034 --> 00:13:04,786
Bez �erpov Everest nevylezie�.
173
00:13:04,787 --> 00:13:07,497
M�j otec bol ich vodcom.
174
00:13:09,792 --> 00:13:11,584
�udia ho re�pektovali.
175
00:13:11,585 --> 00:13:17,632
Vedeli, �e na Everest chodieval
s cudzincami u� od roku 1935.
176
00:13:17,758 --> 00:13:21,427
Hore bol u� �es�kr�t.
177
00:13:22,638 --> 00:13:25,098
Poznal som ch�ry o Tenzingovi.
178
00:13:25,099 --> 00:13:27,600
V horolezectve dosiahol ve�a
179
00:13:27,601 --> 00:13:30,645
a vedel som, �e bol ve�mi cenen�.
180
00:13:30,646 --> 00:13:34,732
Ale nebol som schopn�
s n�m dobre komunikova�.
181
00:13:34,733 --> 00:13:40,864
Jeho angli�tina bola na n�zkej �rovni,
rovnako ako moja nep�l�ina.
182
00:13:40,948 --> 00:13:46,828
Mal trblietaj�ci sa �smev...
nesmierne o�aruj�ci �smev.
183
00:13:48,289 --> 00:13:52,292
Bolo nemo�n� nema� ho r�d.
184
00:13:55,212 --> 00:13:58,256
�al��ch 14 dn�
sme mali obdobie v�cviku.
185
00:13:58,257 --> 00:14:03,303
Testovali sme sa spolo�ne
s na�im zariaden�m na nadmorsk� v��ky.
186
00:14:03,846 --> 00:14:07,015
V roku 1953 bolo
dosiahnutie vrcholu Everestu
187
00:14:07,016 --> 00:14:12,729
po fyzickej str�nke ve�kou nezn�mou.
188
00:14:13,564 --> 00:14:17,984
Bolo to, akoby ste poslali
niekoho do vesm�ru.
189
00:14:20,529 --> 00:14:23,698
Z v��kov�ch experimentov v komor�ch
bolo zn�me,
190
00:14:23,699 --> 00:14:25,575
�e nadmorsk� v��ka
ti m��e v�ne po�kodi� zdravie.
191
00:14:25,576 --> 00:14:29,078
Jedna z t�z bola,
�e �udia m��u dosta� krv�canie do mozgu,
192
00:14:29,079 --> 00:14:32,874
preto�e sa im pr�li� roz��ria cievy.
193
00:14:33,083 --> 00:14:38,379
Ve�a d�vodov d�valo predpoklad,
�e m��e nasta� m�tvica.
194
00:14:39,924 --> 00:14:44,093
Nikto nevedel,
�i to je v�bec mo�n� pre�i�.
195
00:14:51,560 --> 00:14:55,563
Ke� Ed mieril na horu
v roku 1953,
196
00:14:55,564 --> 00:14:59,192
hora si u� predt�m vy�iadala
13 obet�.
197
00:14:59,193 --> 00:15:02,445
Mysl�m, �e pre ka�d�ho,
�o tam liezol v tom �ase,
198
00:15:02,446 --> 00:15:05,698
to bola sk�u�uj�ca �tatistika.
199
00:15:05,699 --> 00:15:09,912
13 obet� a 0 vrcholov.
200
00:15:09,913 --> 00:15:11,913
5. j�n 1921
zahynul �k�tsky b�date� Kellas
201
00:15:11,914 --> 00:15:13,414
7. j�n 1922
sedem m�tvych v lav�ne
202
00:15:13,415 --> 00:15:15,415
17. m�j 1924
smr� �erpu na krv�canie do mozgu
203
00:15:15,414 --> 00:15:17,414
7. j�n 1924
Mallory a Irvine zostali nezvestn�
204
00:15:17,415 --> 00:15:20,415
9. j�n 1924 - dvaja lezci
zostali nezvestn� v d�sledku zimy
205
00:15:20,415 --> 00:15:23,415
31. m�j 1934
Wilson zomrel v d�sledku zimy
206
00:15:23,416 --> 00:15:26,416
31. okt�ber 1952
na hore zahynul �erpa
207
00:15:35,020 --> 00:15:37,272
Teraz, asi 6 m�� od Tengbo�e,
208
00:15:37,273 --> 00:15:39,357
pri poh�ade na sever
vidie� �adovec Khumbu.
209
00:15:39,358 --> 00:15:41,568
Tu sme na�li miesto
pre n� hlavn� z�kladn� t�bor,
210
00:15:41,569 --> 00:15:44,779
odkia� sme mali zah�ji�
�tok na vrchol.
211
00:15:50,369 --> 00:15:54,122
Tento �adovec
bola �al�ia na�a ve�k� prek�ka.
212
00:15:54,123 --> 00:15:57,500
Poslal som skupinu,
aby ho presk�mala.
213
00:15:57,710 --> 00:16:01,171
Ed Hillary viedol t�to prv� skupinu.
214
00:16:13,184 --> 00:16:17,103
Z�padn� kotol
je str�en� ve�k�m �adop�dom.
215
00:16:21,233 --> 00:16:27,280
Je to 750 metrov vysok�
masa �adu, tvoriaca �adop�d Khumbu.
216
00:16:28,949 --> 00:16:30,909
Najsk�r sme museli zisti�,
217
00:16:30,910 --> 00:16:33,953
�i je mo�n� prejs� cez tento �adop�d.
218
00:16:37,541 --> 00:16:39,959
�adop�d bola neust�la hrozba.
219
00:16:39,960 --> 00:16:43,171
Nemali sme in� mo�nos�,
iba spravi� cestu krajinou,
220
00:16:43,172 --> 00:16:48,218
neospravedlnite�nou
v be�nom alpskom lezen�.
221
00:16:52,264 --> 00:16:57,018
Je to ako zmrznut� vodop�d.
222
00:16:57,853 --> 00:17:01,231
Cel� v�ha �adovca
sa neust�le tla�� dole.
223
00:17:01,232 --> 00:17:04,692
Je to sple� �adov�ch blokov.
224
00:17:06,278 --> 00:17:10,740
Nestabiln� re�lne nebezpe�enstvo,
225
00:17:10,741 --> 00:17:13,868
nad ktor�m nem� �iadnu kontrolu.
226
00:17:17,039 --> 00:17:23,294
�ialenstvo! Bo�e m�j,
�s� takouto cestou je hl�pos�.
227
00:17:23,587 --> 00:17:28,967
Ale inou cestou proste nem��e� �s�!
228
00:17:33,639 --> 00:17:37,225
Ke� �vaj�iari v roku 1952
vyst�pili hore �adop�dom,
229
00:17:37,226 --> 00:17:41,396
povedali:
"T�to vec je v neust�lom pohybe."
230
00:17:43,107 --> 00:17:46,901
Z tohto d�vodu je to nebezpe�n� miesto.
231
00:17:46,902 --> 00:17:52,282
V �adop�de zahynulo viac �ud�,
ne� kdeko�vek inde na Evereste.
232
00:18:01,041 --> 00:18:05,253
Je to tu nepreh�adn�,
750 metrov vysok�...
233
00:18:05,254 --> 00:18:09,924
a my sme mali �s� hore
priamo stredom toho.
234
00:18:14,597 --> 00:18:17,765
Ed Hillary, George Lowe,
Mike Westmacott a ja
235
00:18:17,766 --> 00:18:20,894
sme boli vybran�
na vyt��enie prvej cesty.
236
00:18:20,895 --> 00:18:24,439
Za t��de�, alebo aspo� 5 dn�,
ak budeme vl�da�,
237
00:18:24,773 --> 00:18:27,358
kv�li bezpe�nosti
238
00:18:27,359 --> 00:18:29,736
treba vykopa� ve�a stupov
a natiahnu� mno�stvo fixn�ch l�n,
239
00:18:29,737 --> 00:18:32,572
aby bolo eventu�lne mo�n� zabezpe�i�
240
00:18:32,573 --> 00:18:38,703
nosi�om �o najbezpe�nej�� prechod.
241
00:18:58,599 --> 00:19:00,558
�adop�d bolo nebezpe�n� miesto,
242
00:19:00,559 --> 00:19:03,186
preto�e �adov� bloky
padali bez varovania.
243
00:19:03,187 --> 00:19:07,857
Ak ste boli pr�ve na ceste,
bola to prek�rna vec.
244
00:19:28,712 --> 00:19:30,880
Tieto �adov� ve�e,
245
00:19:30,881 --> 00:19:33,842
ve�k� kusy a p�sy �adu
ve�kosti nieko�k�ch domov,
246
00:19:33,843 --> 00:19:37,846
sa mohli
v ka�dom momente zr�ti�.
247
00:19:40,766 --> 00:19:45,395
Mnoh�m nebezpe�n�m �sekom
sme dali men�.
248
00:19:46,188 --> 00:19:48,439
Boli tam Mikeov Horror,
Hillaryho Horror,
249
00:19:48,440 --> 00:19:54,737
�sek nazvan� "Drvi� orechov",
"�zemie at�movej bomby"...
250
00:19:57,575 --> 00:19:59,284
Existuj� ur�it�...
251
00:19:59,285 --> 00:20:01,035
ako horolezci hovoria...
objekt�vne nebezpe�enstv�,
252
00:20:01,036 --> 00:20:04,330
ktor� v podstate
nem��ete ve�mi eliminova�.
253
00:20:05,624 --> 00:20:09,794
Je tu tie� riziko
p�du do trhliny.
254
00:20:10,588 --> 00:20:14,299
Mali sme asi
dvojmetrov� hlin�kov� rebr�ky,
255
00:20:14,300 --> 00:20:18,720
ktor� sme sp�jali dokopy
a takto pou�ili pri prechode cez trhliny.
256
00:20:25,728 --> 00:20:27,520
Bolo tam ve�a trhl�n,
257
00:20:27,521 --> 00:20:31,357
tak�e n�m �oskoro
do�li v�etky rebr�ky.
258
00:20:32,109 --> 00:20:35,111
Preto sme museli posla�
�ud� k najbli���m stromom,
259
00:20:35,112 --> 00:20:37,155
�o bolo asi tri dni cesty dole,
260
00:20:37,156 --> 00:20:43,119
po brvn�
na zhotovenie dreven�ch most�kov.
261
00:20:48,751 --> 00:20:52,420
Balansoval si na nich,
ako sa len dalo.
262
00:21:04,892 --> 00:21:10,438
Bolo n�m jasn�,
�e inak sa na Everest nedostaneme.
263
00:21:13,776 --> 00:21:16,319
Ed Hillary by bol ve�mi r�d,
264
00:21:16,320 --> 00:21:18,696
ak by mohol by�
vo vrcholovom t�me.
265
00:21:18,697 --> 00:21:21,366
Dobre vedel,
�e iba nieko�k�
266
00:21:21,367 --> 00:21:23,493
dostan� �ancu �s� na vrchol.
267
00:21:23,494 --> 00:21:26,329
Preto ��msk�r chcel zap�sobi�
na Johna Hunta
268
00:21:26,330 --> 00:21:29,374
a c�til, �e je �as
zatla�i� na neho
269
00:21:29,375 --> 00:21:33,211
po zoznamovac�ch cest�ch po �adop�de,
aby sa na to pripravil.
270
00:21:43,681 --> 00:21:46,266
M�j otec sa nikdy
tvrdej pr�ce neb�l,
271
00:21:46,267 --> 00:21:49,519
i ke� niekedy to bolo ne�nosn�.
Mysl�m, �e otec c�til
272
00:21:49,520 --> 00:21:55,191
ve�k� psychologick�
a emocion�lne nedostatky.
273
00:21:56,944 --> 00:21:59,946
Bol vychov�van� s ve�k�m o�ak�van�m.
274
00:21:59,947 --> 00:22:02,323
Na gymn�zium v Aucklande ho poslali
275
00:22:02,324 --> 00:22:05,577
o dva roky sk�r.
276
00:22:05,703 --> 00:22:08,496
Mal som iba 11 rokov
277
00:22:08,497 --> 00:22:12,250
a bol som ozaj dos� vydesen�.
278
00:22:12,376 --> 00:22:14,252
V �ase obeda
279
00:22:14,253 --> 00:22:16,337
som chodieval von zo �koly
zadn�mi dverami,
280
00:22:16,338 --> 00:22:20,842
kde bolo mno�stvo mravcov.
281
00:22:20,926 --> 00:22:23,469
Zo za�iatku
na gymn�ziu v Aucklande
282
00:22:23,470 --> 00:22:27,974
boli jedin�mi mojimi priate�mi mravce.
283
00:22:31,020 --> 00:22:36,399
Bol som rojko,
k�m som neza�al liez�.
284
00:22:44,783 --> 00:22:48,536
�adop�d bol jeden ve�k� labyrint.
285
00:22:48,537 --> 00:22:50,371
Napriek tomu boli n�ten�
h�ada� tadia� cestu.
286
00:22:50,372 --> 00:22:55,585
T�to �loha prin�le�ala Edovi.
Bola to mimoriadne dobr� z�bava.
287
00:22:57,379 --> 00:22:59,005
Novoz�lan�ania
288
00:22:59,006 --> 00:23:01,549
mali ove�a viac sk�senost�
s lezen�m v snehu a �ade,
289
00:23:01,550 --> 00:23:04,260
ne� priemern� eur�psky lezec,
290
00:23:04,261 --> 00:23:08,056
preto�e ich pohoria
s� akoby tak� miniat�rne Himal�je.
291
00:23:09,557 --> 00:23:12,843
KR�SY NOV�HO Z�LANDU
292
00:23:14,730 --> 00:23:16,940
Ju�n� Alpy -
293
00:23:16,941 --> 00:23:19,275
rozsiahla sple� h�r,
rozliehaj�ca sa na sever
294
00:23:19,276 --> 00:23:23,613
v takmer nepreru�enom re�azci
sk�l a �adu.
295
00:23:30,746 --> 00:23:32,622
Ed, dok�ete porovna� Ju�n� Alpy
296
00:23:32,623 --> 00:23:34,249
so �vaj�iarskymi Alpami?
297
00:23:34,250 --> 00:23:36,125
V nich sa zdokona�uj� anglick� lezci.
298
00:23:36,126 --> 00:23:38,336
Tu, na Novom Z�lande
s na�im ��asn�m za�adnen�m
299
00:23:38,337 --> 00:23:41,089
sa zv��a lezie v snehu a �ade.
300
00:23:41,090 --> 00:23:43,132
V mnohom s� cesty podobn� himal�jskym.
301
00:23:43,133 --> 00:23:45,009
Od �vaj�iarskych �lp sa dos� odli�uj�,
302
00:23:45,010 --> 00:23:47,971
tam prevl�da lezenie v skal�ch.
303
00:23:47,972 --> 00:23:51,432
Mount Aspiring -
novoz�landsk� Matterhorn -
304
00:23:51,433 --> 00:23:53,893
"�ralo�� zub",
ktor�ho strm� zr�zy
305
00:23:53,894 --> 00:23:56,229
vy�aduj� zru�nos� a opatrnos� v lezen�.
306
00:23:56,230 --> 00:23:57,856
Na�e novoz�landsk� hory
307
00:23:57,857 --> 00:24:00,900
s� ozaj skvel�m
tr�ningov�m prostred�m pre Himal�je.
308
00:24:03,112 --> 00:24:06,948
"Kiwis" s� ve�mi odoln�,
309
00:24:06,949 --> 00:24:09,159
preto si mysl�m,
�e mlad� britsk� lezci
310
00:24:09,160 --> 00:24:10,869
zostali trocha v ��ase,
311
00:24:10,870 --> 00:24:17,292
ke� im pridelili do t�mu
pr�ve t�chto impozantn�ch "Kiwis".
312
00:24:24,466 --> 00:24:26,259
No, nastala �al�ia ve�k� pochybnos�
313
00:24:26,260 --> 00:24:28,761
na hrane kotla
314
00:24:28,762 --> 00:24:31,639
na vrchole �adop�du.
315
00:24:31,724 --> 00:24:36,895
V�imnite si t�to rozsiahlu trhlinu.
316
00:24:38,189 --> 00:24:41,649
Dostaneme sa cez �u do kotla?
317
00:24:46,155 --> 00:24:48,323
Rozhodnutie, kto p�jde
318
00:24:48,324 --> 00:24:50,116
na vrchol
319
00:24:50,117 --> 00:24:54,037
bolo z ve�kej miery v�sadou vodcu.
320
00:25:00,127 --> 00:25:03,213
John Hunt mal prerozdeli� t�m
321
00:25:03,214 --> 00:25:06,508
pre �al�� priebeh exped�cie.
322
00:25:10,763 --> 00:25:12,472
Nastalo ve�k� mno�stvo
323
00:25:12,473 --> 00:25:15,391
p�zovan� a predv�dzania sa,
324
00:25:15,392 --> 00:25:19,103
ke� sa �udia chceli
uk�za� v �o najlep�om svetle
325
00:25:19,104 --> 00:25:22,232
kv�li takejto pr�le�itosti.
326
00:25:27,404 --> 00:25:29,197
Mysl�m, �e medzi Britmi
327
00:25:29,198 --> 00:25:31,282
nebolo a� tak� �silie
o t�to poz�ciu.
328
00:25:31,283 --> 00:25:35,119
Mysl�m, �e na�i Novoz�lan�ania,
Hillary a Lowe,
329
00:25:35,120 --> 00:25:36,788
boli mo�no trocha viac priamo�iarej��
330
00:25:36,789 --> 00:25:40,083
v chcen� dosta� sa �o najvy��ie.
331
00:25:50,511 --> 00:25:53,638
Chceli sa silou-mocou presadi�,
332
00:25:53,639 --> 00:25:56,057
k�m my sme boli mo�no
trocha viac ustr�chan� -
333
00:25:56,058 --> 00:25:59,394
verejn� �kola n�s nen�tila
razi� si cestu vpred,
334
00:25:59,395 --> 00:26:03,147
k�m Hunt nepovie:
"Ty si chlap�k, chop sa toho!"
335
00:26:03,190 --> 00:26:07,026
Neust�le som d�fal,
�e George Lowe a ja
336
00:26:07,027 --> 00:26:10,113
budeme tvori� vrcholov� dvojicu,
337
00:26:10,114 --> 00:26:13,533
ale nebola doba na to,
�eby n� vodca John Hunt
338
00:26:13,534 --> 00:26:19,164
chcel ma� na vrchole Mount Everestu
dvoch Novoz�lan�anov.
339
00:26:19,165 --> 00:26:21,875
Preto som sa mal poobzera� po niekom,
340
00:26:21,876 --> 00:26:27,088
kto by bol schopn� nahradi� ma
a odvies� kvalitn� pr�cu.
341
00:26:27,173 --> 00:26:31,009
Tenzing bol t� osoba.
342
00:26:36,265 --> 00:26:40,685
�iaden �lovek nemal viac
sk�senost� z Everestu.
343
00:26:42,521 --> 00:26:45,064
Dobre ch�pal hodnotu tohto v�stupu
344
00:26:45,065 --> 00:26:48,735
a ako mu mohol zmeni� �ivot.
345
00:26:48,986 --> 00:26:51,738
Tenzing bol ve�mi chudobn�.
346
00:26:51,739 --> 00:26:53,948
Tvrdo pracoval.
347
00:26:53,949 --> 00:26:56,868
Chcel, aby sa jeho deti
dostali do dobr�ch �k�l.
348
00:26:56,869 --> 00:27:00,413
Chcel, aby sa mali lep�ie ako on.
349
00:27:00,414 --> 00:27:05,168
Tenzing vedel,
�o znamen� zdola� Everest.
350
00:27:08,589 --> 00:27:12,884
M�j otec sa trocha l�il
od in�ch �erpov,
351
00:27:12,885 --> 00:27:17,347
preto�e v�dy t��il zdola� Everest.
352
00:27:19,350 --> 00:27:23,228
Pre chudodn� die�a z Tibetu
to bolo ve�mi nezvy�ajn�.
353
00:27:23,229 --> 00:27:28,024
Mnoh� in� �erpovia
liezli iba kv�li z�robku na �ivobytie,
354
00:27:28,025 --> 00:27:29,984
k�m on bol lezec od srdca.
355
00:27:29,985 --> 00:27:35,865
Dopredu ho hnal vrchol,
rovnako ako Edmunda Hillaryho.
356
00:27:40,871 --> 00:27:44,666
Ako sme kr��ali �alej kotlom,
trhl�m ub�dalo.
357
00:27:44,667 --> 00:27:48,920
Uvedomili sme si,
�e je pre n�s otvoren�.
358
00:28:09,942 --> 00:28:12,151
Zhroma�dili sme sa v z�kladnom t�bore.
359
00:28:12,152 --> 00:28:15,029
N� prv� probl�m bol
vynies� z�soby
360
00:28:15,030 --> 00:28:19,784
do �tvrt�ho t�bora
v Z�padnom kotli.
361
00:28:19,869 --> 00:28:22,787
Vzh�adom na lezeck� �a�kosti
v �adop�de
362
00:28:22,788 --> 00:28:27,709
nalo�en� nosi�i �iadaj�
tri dni na dosiahnutie �tvrt�ho t�bora.
363
00:28:30,337 --> 00:28:32,338
T�to my�lienka vznikla
364
00:28:32,339 --> 00:28:34,465
pri obhliadke hory.
365
00:28:34,466 --> 00:28:37,093
To znamen�, �e by to robili
ve�mi systematick�m sp�sobom.
366
00:28:37,094 --> 00:28:40,096
Zalo�ili by jeden,
potom �al�� t�bor,
367
00:28:40,097 --> 00:28:42,849
a takto �li st�le vy��ie a vy��ie.
368
00:28:42,850 --> 00:28:45,185
Vybudovan�m takejto pyram�dy t�borov
369
00:28:45,186 --> 00:28:50,523
dostanete hore dostatok stanov, jedla,
paliva na varenie, kysl�ka...
370
00:28:50,524 --> 00:28:54,569
dostatok tak�chto z�sob.
M��ete si tam odpo�in��
371
00:28:54,570 --> 00:28:58,114
pred odchodom hore do �al�ej etapy.
372
00:29:03,913 --> 00:29:07,665
A k tomu, �udia by mali �s�
hore a hne� dole z hory.
373
00:29:07,666 --> 00:29:10,710
Ide�lne je, ke� �udia dosiahnu t�bor
a znova sa vr�tia dole,
374
00:29:10,711 --> 00:29:13,421
preto�e ka�d�, kto dosiahne t�bor
a zostane tam,
375
00:29:13,422 --> 00:29:16,966
skonzumuje v�etko jedlo,
�o sa vynieslo hore.
376
00:29:35,903 --> 00:29:37,862
�udia sa sna�ili
prich�dza� s rie�eniami,
377
00:29:37,863 --> 00:29:40,240
ako pom�c� t�mu
k dosiahnutiu vrcholu.
378
00:29:40,241 --> 00:29:42,116
Z cel�ho sveta
379
00:29:42,117 --> 00:29:45,119
posielali �ialen� n�vrhy na vyn�lezy.
380
00:29:45,120 --> 00:29:46,871
Niekto navrhol geni�lne zariadenie,
381
00:29:46,872 --> 00:29:48,581
typ akejsi harp�ny
382
00:29:48,582 --> 00:29:52,043
so z�paln�m zariaden�m na konci.
383
00:29:52,127 --> 00:29:55,547
Hlavn� my�lienka bola,
�e by sa takto vp�lila do �adu,
384
00:29:55,548 --> 00:29:57,423
t�m p�dom by zabezpe�ila
pevn� ukotvenie lana,
385
00:29:57,424 --> 00:29:59,634
po ktorom by �udia
mohli vystupova� hore.
386
00:29:59,635 --> 00:30:02,470
V��inou to boli
tot�lne bl�zniv� n�pady.
387
00:30:02,471 --> 00:30:04,806
Moja met�da zah��a pou�itie lana,
388
00:30:04,807 --> 00:30:07,141
vytiahnut�ho dopredu lietadlom.
389
00:30:07,142 --> 00:30:08,768
S mojim osobn�m
390
00:30:08,769 --> 00:30:10,562
vykurovac�m zariaden�m
391
00:30:10,563 --> 00:30:12,522
vzduch bude prech�dza�
cez ohrievaciu komoru
392
00:30:12,523 --> 00:30:14,232
a bude �erpan� cez gumen� hadice
393
00:30:14,233 --> 00:30:15,942
do r�k, n�h a hlavy.
394
00:30:15,943 --> 00:30:19,112
M��em spomen�� zvl�tnu zbra�
395
00:30:19,113 --> 00:30:21,489
pre nastre�ovanie
oce�ov�ch skrutiek do skaly...
396
00:30:21,490 --> 00:30:23,366
Navrhujem vlnen� oble�enie,
397
00:30:23,367 --> 00:30:24,951
zapojen� v podstate rovnak�m sp�sobom
398
00:30:24,952 --> 00:30:26,578
ako elektrick� prikr�vka...
399
00:30:26,579 --> 00:30:28,121
Bolo by mo�n�
400
00:30:28,122 --> 00:30:31,166
vyst�pa� na vrchol pomocou
ve�k�ho h�liom plnen�ho bal�na,
401
00:30:31,167 --> 00:30:35,587
na ktor� by bolo potrebn�
ve�k� mno�stvo h�lia.
402
00:30:41,177 --> 00:30:44,596
Takmer v�etky technologick� inov�cie,
403
00:30:44,597 --> 00:30:46,931
pou�it� na exped�cii v roku 1953,
404
00:30:46,932 --> 00:30:49,434
poch�dzali z vec�, vyvinut�ch arm�dou
405
00:30:49,435 --> 00:30:52,562
v priebehu 2. svetovej vojny.
406
00:30:54,398 --> 00:30:57,525
Testovali priamo na sebe
nepremokav� zariadenia
407
00:30:57,526 --> 00:31:01,696
v aerodynamickom tuneli
Farnborough Aircraft Factory.
408
00:31:08,329 --> 00:31:11,372
30 rozli�n�ch britsk�ch firiem
409
00:31:11,373 --> 00:31:15,543
bolo zapojen�ch pri navrhovan�
samotn�ch top�nok.
410
00:31:18,547 --> 00:31:23,843
V�stup na Everest v roku 1953
sa stal ot�zkou n�rodnej prest�e.
411
00:31:24,178 --> 00:31:27,263
Po druhej svetovej vojne
bola Brit�nia v tot�lnom bankrote.
412
00:31:27,264 --> 00:31:29,974
Vzh�adom k povojnov�m
�sporn�m opatreniam v Brit�nii,
413
00:31:29,975 --> 00:31:32,769
naozaj hrozn�ch dn�...
414
00:31:34,355 --> 00:31:37,190
sa jednalo o posledn�
ve�k� koloni�lny projekt...
415
00:31:37,191 --> 00:31:41,194
posledn� "hur�"
britsk�ho imp�ria.
416
00:31:52,414 --> 00:31:54,582
M�j otec a Tenzing
417
00:31:54,583 --> 00:31:57,877
neust�le dobrovo�ne pom�hali
v r�znych situ�ciach,
418
00:31:57,878 --> 00:32:03,174
demon�truj�c ich kompetenciu
by� v jednom z vrcholov�ch t�mov.
419
00:32:03,217 --> 00:32:06,469
Otec vedel, �e tam bol
cel� rad d�vodov,
420
00:32:06,470 --> 00:32:11,391
pre�o by toto mala by�
najlep�ia kombin�cia pre �spech.
421
00:32:11,809 --> 00:32:15,979
V tomto vysokohorskom prostred�
boli ako doma.
422
00:32:16,021 --> 00:32:20,024
Boli "hladn�" po vrchole.
423
00:32:29,910 --> 00:32:32,829
Dohromady ich spojil
424
00:32:32,830 --> 00:32:35,165
z�vod dole �adop�dom Khumbu,
425
00:32:35,166 --> 00:32:39,002
kde sa sna�ili dok�za�,
ako to r�chlo prejd�.
426
00:32:39,503 --> 00:32:42,088
Ako produkt
jeho nadmernej neviazanosti
427
00:32:42,089 --> 00:32:45,925
bola nehoda, �o sa stala
pri jednom preskoku.
428
00:32:46,260 --> 00:32:49,971
Tenzing a ja sme mierili
nazad do z�kladn�ho t�bora.
429
00:32:50,556 --> 00:32:53,266
Ke� sme boli zhruba
v polovici �adop�du,
430
00:32:53,267 --> 00:32:57,103
dorazili sme k jednej z trhl�n.
431
00:32:59,356 --> 00:33:02,775
Na jednej strane
bol ve�k� kus �adu.
432
00:33:02,776 --> 00:33:05,778
Pou�ili sme ho ako odrazov� most�k
433
00:33:05,779 --> 00:33:08,656
na dosiahnutie druhej strany.
434
00:33:42,900 --> 00:33:44,484
Bolo to trocha ironick�,
435
00:33:44,485 --> 00:33:47,070
�e sa to stalo pr�ve Edovi Hillarymu,
436
00:33:47,071 --> 00:33:50,031
tak�mu skvel�mu lezcovi.
437
00:33:52,952 --> 00:33:54,828
�udia mi �asto hovoria:
438
00:33:54,829 --> 00:33:56,579
"Musel si by� ve�mi v�a�n�,
439
00:33:56,580 --> 00:33:59,040
ke� ti Tenzing zachr�nil takto �ivot."
440
00:33:59,041 --> 00:34:00,750
Ale ja som si to nemyslel.
441
00:34:00,751 --> 00:34:05,171
Bol by som ve�mi nahnevan�,
ak by mi �ivot nezachr�nil.
442
00:34:12,012 --> 00:34:14,305
�tvrt� t�bor bol postaven�.
443
00:34:14,306 --> 00:34:16,057
�spe�ne sme do neho dopravili
444
00:34:16,058 --> 00:34:20,144
tri tony z�sob.
445
00:34:25,234 --> 00:34:27,443
Horu nedobyje�,
446
00:34:27,444 --> 00:34:29,320
ak nem� dos� ��astia.
447
00:34:29,321 --> 00:34:33,825
Hora ti d� �ancu
dosta� sa na vrchol.
448
00:34:33,909 --> 00:34:38,746
Sna�� sa prekona� vlastn� slabiny.
449
00:34:49,884 --> 00:34:52,677
Ed Hillary bol typom nad�enca,
450
00:34:52,678 --> 00:34:54,554
ktor� chcel by� v�dy vpredu...
451
00:34:54,555 --> 00:34:57,515
v�dy chcel by� l�drom.
452
00:34:57,516 --> 00:35:02,812
Nebol grobiansky, bol tich�,
viac rezervovan�, charaktern�.
453
00:35:04,815 --> 00:35:08,610
Otec bol dos� komplikovan� �lovek.
454
00:35:08,652 --> 00:35:12,489
Mysl�m, �e otec mal v sebe
pr�li� m�lo syndr�mov
455
00:35:12,490 --> 00:35:14,824
by� perfekcionalista.
456
00:35:14,825 --> 00:35:20,163
Sk�r opl�val pocitom menejcennosti,
�e nie je na ni� dobr�.
457
00:35:20,164 --> 00:35:25,543
Mysl�m, �e to bolo v�sledkom
ve�mi komplikovan�ho rodinn�ho z�zemia.
458
00:35:29,340 --> 00:35:31,591
M�j otec neprejavoval
ve�k� z�ujem
459
00:35:31,592 --> 00:35:33,760
o dobrodru�n� aktivity.
460
00:35:33,761 --> 00:35:36,971
Bol hlboko veriacim �lovekom.
461
00:35:36,972 --> 00:35:43,937
Lezenie v hor�ch pova�oval sk�r
za stratu �asu.
462
00:35:48,359 --> 00:35:52,237
Prie�il som sa mu.
463
00:35:53,364 --> 00:35:57,283
Zvy�ajne to kon�ilo v k�lni,
464
00:35:57,284 --> 00:36:01,162
kde som od neho
dostal dobr� bitku.
465
00:36:02,706 --> 00:36:04,541
Celkom som hrd� na skuto�nos�,
466
00:36:04,542 --> 00:36:09,045
�e som vlastne nikdy
nepripustil moje omyly...
467
00:36:10,089 --> 00:36:13,216
ani vtedy, ke� boli zrejm�.
468
00:36:36,282 --> 00:36:39,951
Samozrejme, �e v�etci
sme mali obrovsk� z�ujem
469
00:36:39,952 --> 00:36:43,413
dosta� sa do fin�lneho v�beru.
470
00:36:47,835 --> 00:36:53,339
V t�ch �asoch bolo
vodcovo slovo "sv�t�",
471
00:36:53,382 --> 00:36:58,136
zvl u mu�ov,
sl��iacich v ozbrojen�ch sil�ch.
472
00:36:59,180 --> 00:37:01,681
Hunt rozhodol,
473
00:37:01,682 --> 00:37:05,101
kto bude t�m ��astlivcom
474
00:37:05,102 --> 00:37:08,479
a zabojuje o vrchol.
475
00:37:13,110 --> 00:37:15,361
V z�kladnom t�bore
476
00:37:15,362 --> 00:37:17,780
John Hunt zvolal v�etk�ch
477
00:37:17,781 --> 00:37:24,496
a na�rtol pl�ny
pre zvy�ok exped�cie.
478
00:37:25,539 --> 00:37:30,668
Z�sadn� vec sa t�kala
samozrejme pokusov o vrchol.
479
00:37:30,711 --> 00:37:32,587
Na tejto sch�dzi...
480
00:37:32,588 --> 00:37:35,840
mimoriadnej sch�dzi s t�mom,
481
00:37:35,841 --> 00:37:37,967
v tot�lnej izol�cii
od zvy�ku sveta,
482
00:37:37,968 --> 00:37:41,346
tis�ce m�� od domova,
483
00:37:43,682 --> 00:37:46,684
ka�d� z mu�ov uva�oval:
"Nebola by to n�dhera,"
484
00:37:46,685 --> 00:37:50,438
"ak by som bol jedn�m
z t�ch ��astlivcov?"
485
00:37:51,941 --> 00:37:55,485
Bolo treba nielen
vybra� �ud� pre vrchol,
486
00:37:55,486 --> 00:38:00,073
ale zadeli� aj ostatn� pr�ce.
487
00:38:02,910 --> 00:38:06,162
M�j otec mal pevne stanoven�,
488
00:38:06,163 --> 00:38:11,000
�e to bude on,
kto dostane vrcholov� pr�le�itos�.
489
00:38:11,377 --> 00:38:12,919
Jednou z podmienok
490
00:38:12,920 --> 00:38:15,129
m�jho otca
�s� s anglick�m t�mom,
491
00:38:15,130 --> 00:38:18,716
bola mo�nos� �s� na vrchol.
492
00:38:18,717 --> 00:38:21,970
Nejestvoval na to
�iaden sk�senej�� horolezec.
493
00:38:21,971 --> 00:38:25,139
V�etci by sme radi bojovali o vrchol,
494
00:38:25,140 --> 00:38:27,183
ale o prv� vrcholov� pokus
495
00:38:27,184 --> 00:38:32,480
sa mali pok�si�
Tom Bourdillon s Charlesom Evansom.
496
00:38:36,735 --> 00:38:40,071
Hunt potom dodal:
"Ak bude potrebn� druh� pokus,"
497
00:38:40,072 --> 00:38:44,409
"pok�si sa o�
Ed Hillary a Tenzing."
498
00:38:46,036 --> 00:38:47,787
Som presved�en�, �e m�j otec
499
00:38:47,788 --> 00:38:51,791
by bol ve�mi r�d v prvom t�me.
500
00:38:54,336 --> 00:38:59,174
Tenzingovi sa toto
zaiste pr�li� nep��ilo.
501
00:39:01,468 --> 00:39:04,804
�al�ia etapa...
skuto�ne k���ov�...
502
00:39:04,805 --> 00:39:08,892
bola dosta� sa cez stenu Lhoce
do Ju�n�ho sedla.
503
00:39:09,393 --> 00:39:13,438
John Hunt povedal: "V poriadku,
Tom Bourdillon s Charlesom Evansom..."
504
00:39:13,439 --> 00:39:15,565
"Najsk�r po�leme ich dvoch."
505
00:39:15,566 --> 00:39:18,526
"M��u urobi� ve�k� skok
z Ju�n�ho sedla"
506
00:39:18,527 --> 00:39:22,071
"a� na vrchol za jeden de�."
507
00:39:29,246 --> 00:39:32,415
Prv� hlavn� �lohu
v tomto pl�ne z�skal George Lowe.
508
00:39:32,416 --> 00:39:36,836
Mal pripravi� cestu
cez stenu Lhoce,
509
00:39:36,837 --> 00:39:40,924
aby �al�ie skupiny
mohli dosiahnu� Ju�n� sedlo.
510
00:39:40,966 --> 00:39:44,886
Mala by� hotov� do 15. m�ja.
511
00:39:50,893 --> 00:39:52,685
Proste bolo povedan�:
512
00:39:52,686 --> 00:39:56,689
"Chceme by� v poz�cii
zdola� Everest 15. m�ja."
513
00:39:56,690 --> 00:39:59,567
Niekde v podvedom� u Hunta
preb�val neust�ly strach,
514
00:39:59,568 --> 00:40:04,948
�e pr�de monz�n
a ukon�� v�etky na�e n�deje.
515
00:40:05,115 --> 00:40:10,161
Najsk�r ale museli prekona� vec,
zvan� stena Lhoce.
516
00:40:13,290 --> 00:40:16,334
Je to obrovsk�, 1200 metrov vysok�
stena, pln� snehu a �adu,
517
00:40:16,335 --> 00:40:21,256
ved�ca strmo do Ju�n�ho sedla,
le�iaceho vo v��ke 8000 metrov.
518
00:40:23,759 --> 00:40:27,303
George Lowe, m�j partner z Nov�ho Z�landu,
stratil ve�a �asu a energie
519
00:40:27,304 --> 00:40:31,015
prer�an�m cesty
cez tento n�ro�n� probl�m.
520
00:40:31,308 --> 00:40:33,935
Pr�ca v stene bola ve�mi n�ro�n�.
521
00:40:33,936 --> 00:40:35,812
E�te viac ju s�a�ovalo otrasn�
522
00:40:35,813 --> 00:40:40,942
po�asie a dennodenn� padanie snehu,
ktor� neust�le prikr�val stopy.
523
00:40:41,902 --> 00:40:44,654
T�to vysut� poz�ciu
som po dlh� �as zdie�al s Ang Nyimom,
524
00:40:44,655 --> 00:40:48,116
�tlym �erpom.
525
00:40:50,786 --> 00:40:53,204
George Lowe
pracoval v stene Lhoce
526
00:40:53,205 --> 00:40:59,878
a� do v��ky 7700 metrov
viac ne� t��de� bez podporn�ho kysl�ka.
527
00:41:01,297 --> 00:41:04,883
Bola hrozn� zima
a dul siln� vietor.
528
00:41:04,884 --> 00:41:08,052
Po cel� �as som d�fal,
�e preraz�m cestu
529
00:41:08,053 --> 00:41:12,056
traverzom steny do Ju�n�ho sedla.
530
00:41:12,474 --> 00:41:17,103
Bol som ale bi�ovan� po�as�m
a aj nadmorsk� v��ka mala na m�a vplyv.
531
00:41:17,104 --> 00:41:21,816
Zdalo sa, �e nebudeme schopn�
urobi� posledn�ch 300 metrov do sedla.
532
00:41:24,487 --> 00:41:26,696
John Hunt urobil ve�k� chybu,
533
00:41:26,697 --> 00:41:29,782
ke� podcenil stenu Lhoce.
534
00:41:29,783 --> 00:41:32,911
Proste bola pr�li� ve�k�.
535
00:41:39,668 --> 00:41:43,922
George Lowe od neho
nedost�val dos� podpory.
536
00:41:44,590 --> 00:41:47,133
Bolo to iba na mne a Ang Nyimovi.
537
00:41:47,134 --> 00:41:49,511
V�dy, ke� n�m posielali podporu,
538
00:41:49,512 --> 00:41:53,848
neboli schopn� do 24 hod�n ju doru�i�.
539
00:41:56,018 --> 00:41:57,977
Vo vysok�ch v��kach
540
00:41:57,978 --> 00:42:01,523
sa nikdy dobre nec�ti�.
541
00:42:04,652 --> 00:42:07,862
Ka�d�m dychom
vo vysok�ch nadmorsk�ch v��kach
542
00:42:07,863 --> 00:42:09,656
z�skava� menej molek�l kysl�ka.
543
00:42:09,657 --> 00:42:14,953
Preto potrebuje� viac n�dychov,
aby si z�skal potrebn� kysl�k.
544
00:42:19,500 --> 00:42:21,709
Prelo�� si podlo�ku cez �sta
545
00:42:21,710 --> 00:42:24,504
a sna�� sa cez �u d�cha�,
akoby si be�al.
546
00:42:24,505 --> 00:42:27,549
Iba nas�va� vzduch...
sna�� sa dosta� do seba dos� vzduchu.
547
00:42:27,550 --> 00:42:30,385
Napriek tomu dlh vzduchu narast�,
a� nakoniec proste nem��e� �s� �alej...
548
00:42:30,386 --> 00:42:33,179
mus� zastavi�.
549
00:42:33,180 --> 00:42:35,849
Spotrebuje� tri, �tyri n�dychy
na jeden krok...
550
00:42:35,850 --> 00:42:39,769
nesk�r p�, �es�...
551
00:42:39,770 --> 00:42:41,813
p�tn�s� n�dychov...
552
00:42:41,814 --> 00:42:44,149
proste sa ti nedost�va vzduchu.
553
00:42:47,653 --> 00:42:53,074
Tam hore sa ti myse�
akosi postupne spoma�uje.
554
00:42:55,327 --> 00:42:57,704
Myslel som, �e som extr�mne dobr�,
555
00:42:57,705 --> 00:43:02,625
ale v skuto�nosti sme boli
om�men� ako �udia vo sne.
556
00:43:10,176 --> 00:43:13,553
V stene Lhoce sme str�vili 10 dn�,
557
00:43:13,554 --> 00:43:16,264
zna�ne viac, ne� som r�tal.
558
00:43:16,265 --> 00:43:21,394
Pritom sme st�le neprerazili
do Ju�n�ho sedla.
559
00:43:21,395 --> 00:43:25,398
�asov� faktor sa st�val kritick�m.
560
00:43:28,986 --> 00:43:31,446
Monitorovan�m pokroku
v stene Lhoce
561
00:43:31,447 --> 00:43:34,324
bolo zrejm�, �e hybnos� �toku
562
00:43:34,325 --> 00:43:36,784
postupne slabne.
563
00:43:36,785 --> 00:43:38,745
Pritom prv� n�znaky monz�nu
564
00:43:38,746 --> 00:43:42,999
sa u� vytv�rali v Beng�lskom z�live.
565
00:43:43,334 --> 00:43:47,295
Bol ve�mi kritick� �as.
566
00:43:47,463 --> 00:43:49,088
Predstavte si pocit Hunta,
567
00:43:49,089 --> 00:43:51,841
ako sa mu pr�ve rozpad�
tento ve�k� podnik.
568
00:43:51,842 --> 00:43:54,385
"Ak ��msk�r nevyrie�ime
t�to vec,"
569
00:43:54,386 --> 00:43:55,970
"budeme str�ca� na�u �ancu."
570
00:43:55,971 --> 00:43:57,514
"Pr�chodom monz�nu"
571
00:43:57,515 --> 00:44:00,642
"nedosiahneme ani Ju�n� sedlo,
tob�� vrchol."
572
00:44:09,143 --> 00:44:11,770
Everest
�UDIA versus PO�ASIE
573
00:44:12,404 --> 00:44:16,032
Lond�n vol� britsk� exped�ciu
na Mount Evereste.
574
00:44:16,033 --> 00:44:18,159
Tu je najnov�ia
predpove� po�asia.
575
00:44:18,160 --> 00:44:21,996
Z�padn� front sa zrejme
presunie na v�chod
576
00:44:21,997 --> 00:44:24,874
cez najkrajnej�� sever Nep�lu.
577
00:44:24,875 --> 00:44:27,961
Je pravdepodobn�,
�e prinesie ve�k� obla�nos�
578
00:44:27,962 --> 00:44:31,172
s ob�asn�mi b�rkami...
579
00:44:31,715 --> 00:44:35,009
Nesk�r v m�ji
580
00:44:35,010 --> 00:44:38,721
bolo st�le zrejmej�ie,
�e doraz� monz�n.
581
00:44:39,932 --> 00:44:41,683
Pr�chodom monz�nu
582
00:44:41,684 --> 00:44:46,062
prich�dza aj mnoho snehu,
t�m je lezenie ove�a problematickej�ie.
583
00:44:46,063 --> 00:44:49,732
Vo ve�kom mno�stve sypk�ho snehu
nie je �ahk� liez�...
584
00:44:49,733 --> 00:44:52,443
brodi� si n�m cestu.
585
00:44:53,612 --> 00:44:56,447
Britsk� exped�cia v roku 1930
�plne zlyhala,
586
00:44:56,448 --> 00:44:59,325
preto�e monz�n pri�iel pr�li� skoro.
587
00:44:59,410 --> 00:45:03,413
Hlavne kv�li tomuto
narastal v exped�cii tlak.
588
00:45:12,923 --> 00:45:15,675
Aj ke� nebola
589
00:45:15,676 --> 00:45:18,595
dokon�en� cesta do Ju�n�ho sedla,
590
00:45:18,596 --> 00:45:21,848
John Hunt vydal z�sadn� rozhodnutie
591
00:45:21,849 --> 00:45:25,393
vysla� hore 14-�lenn� t�m �erpov,
592
00:45:25,394 --> 00:45:28,605
aby z�sobili v�etky sklady,
ktor� budeme potrebova�.
593
00:45:36,405 --> 00:45:39,657
Ni� nesmelo ohrozi� na�e sklady
594
00:45:39,658 --> 00:45:43,786
v �ase �tokov na vrchol.
595
00:45:47,583 --> 00:45:50,084
21. m�ja sme Tenzing a ja
596
00:45:50,085 --> 00:45:54,005
viedli skupinu 14-tich �erpsk�ch nosi�ov
do Ju�n�ho sedla.
597
00:46:05,893 --> 00:46:10,396
13-ti �erpovia toho d�a
vyst�pili do sedla bez podporn�ho kysl�ka.
598
00:46:10,397 --> 00:46:14,776
Iba 14-ty to nedok�zal,
ale o jeho n�klad bolo postaran�.
599
00:46:14,777 --> 00:46:18,947
Boli sme na nich py�n� a v�a�n�.
600
00:46:19,907 --> 00:46:21,783
Stihli to za 10 a pol hodiny.
601
00:46:21,784 --> 00:46:24,285
Ka�d� vyniesol zhruba 15 kg
a ich jedin�m jedlom
602
00:46:24,286 --> 00:46:27,997
bola ��lka �aju a k�sok chleba.
603
00:46:30,709 --> 00:46:34,379
Takto sme boli schopn�
spr�vne vybavi� t�bor
604
00:46:34,380 --> 00:46:38,091
stanmi, spac�mi vakmi,
kysl�kov�mi pr�strojmi a jedlom.
605
00:46:38,092 --> 00:46:41,636
Bol to jeden z najv���ch �spechov.
606
00:46:49,103 --> 00:46:50,645
Ju�n� sedlo je zrejme
607
00:46:50,646 --> 00:46:53,189
najnehostinnej�ie miesto sveta.
608
00:46:54,108 --> 00:46:55,942
Nepretr�it� siln� vietor
609
00:46:55,943 --> 00:46:59,654
neust�le f�ka cez bez�te�n�
pustatinu snehu a �adu,
610
00:46:59,655 --> 00:47:01,489
vr�tane vetrom zni�en�ch
611
00:47:01,490 --> 00:47:03,825
stanov �vaj�iarskej v�pravy
z predch�dzaj�ceho roka,
612
00:47:03,826 --> 00:47:08,371
na ktor�ch vej�
iba zostatky roztrhanej tkaniny.
613
00:47:12,126 --> 00:47:16,504
V roku 1952 pozvali �vaj�iari
m�jho otca na v�stup na Everest.
614
00:47:16,505 --> 00:47:20,425
Dostal sa do v��ky,
kde predt�m �iaden �lovek nebol,
615
00:47:20,426 --> 00:47:24,262
ale nepriazniv� po�asie
ich vr�tilo sp�.
616
00:47:26,223 --> 00:47:28,808
Spom�nam si na v�rok Andreasa Rocha
zo �vaj�iarskej v�pravy:
617
00:47:28,809 --> 00:47:32,353
"V sedle c�ti� pach smrti."
618
00:47:32,354 --> 00:47:34,898
Mysleli sme, �e to je
iba prehnan� dr�ma,
619
00:47:34,899 --> 00:47:38,359
ale ke� sme tam pri�li,
pochopili sme.
620
00:47:41,113 --> 00:47:44,032
Poviem v�m, tamoj�iu zimu
621
00:47:44,033 --> 00:47:45,992
prec�ti� a� do �piku kost�.
622
00:47:45,993 --> 00:47:49,204
Om�zaj� ti prsty, ruky...
623
00:47:49,205 --> 00:47:51,456
c�ti� neust�le stup�uj�cu sa zimu.
624
00:47:51,457 --> 00:47:55,793
Je to s�boj tela
a snahy nie�o robi�.
625
00:47:55,794 --> 00:47:59,714
Vie�, �e tam pomaly zomiera�.
626
00:48:09,099 --> 00:48:11,017
Dosiahli sme v�znamn� krok.
627
00:48:11,018 --> 00:48:14,812
Potom sme sa vr�tili
do Z�padn�ho kotla.
628
00:48:17,817 --> 00:48:23,363
Neodkladne sme uviedli
do chodu �to�n� pl�n.
629
00:48:25,115 --> 00:48:28,368
Hunt chcel zrealizova�
dva pokusy o vrchol,
630
00:48:28,369 --> 00:48:31,120
ale uvedomil si,
�e dva pokusy s� prive�a
631
00:48:31,121 --> 00:48:33,873
na pou�itie s�prav
s "otvoren�m okruhom".
632
00:48:33,874 --> 00:48:35,834
V tomto mechanizme
633
00:48:35,835 --> 00:48:40,004
ke� vyd�chnete, vyd�chnut� vzduch
sa dost�va von do atmosf�ry,
634
00:48:40,005 --> 00:48:41,548
ke� sa nad�chnete,
635
00:48:41,549 --> 00:48:45,260
atmosferick� vzduch vdychujete
spolu s trochou podporn�ho kysl�ka
636
00:48:45,261 --> 00:48:48,179
z v�ho kysl�kov�ho pr�stroja.
637
00:48:50,933 --> 00:48:53,268
Cez kysl�kov� pr�stroj
638
00:48:53,269 --> 00:48:55,353
sa spotrebuje ve�a kysl�ka,
639
00:48:55,354 --> 00:48:58,940
tak�e by bolo treba dosta�
obrovsk� mno�stvo kysl�ka
640
00:48:58,941 --> 00:49:01,192
do Ju�n�ho sedla
a na Juhov�chodn� hrebe�.
641
00:49:01,193 --> 00:49:02,735
Preto sa rozhodol:
642
00:49:02,736 --> 00:49:05,029
"Nie, toto dok�za� nebudeme schopn�."
643
00:49:05,030 --> 00:49:07,323
Existovala ale aj alternat�vna forma
kysl�kovej s�pravy,
644
00:49:07,324 --> 00:49:10,368
naz�van� "uzavret� okruh".
645
00:49:11,036 --> 00:49:13,663
Pri "uzavretom okruhu" ke� vyd�chnete,
646
00:49:13,664 --> 00:49:16,207
oxid uhli�it� prech�dza cez kanister,
647
00:49:16,208 --> 00:49:19,961
naplnen� zmesou s�dy a v�pna
648
00:49:19,962 --> 00:49:22,338
a vr�ti sa sp�
ako kysl�k do kysl�kov�ch flia�.
649
00:49:22,339 --> 00:49:26,509
Takto ste �plne izolovan�
od vonkaj�ieho vzduchu.
650
00:49:29,013 --> 00:49:34,601
Ak to bude pracova�,
"uzavret� okruh" bude ��innej��,
651
00:49:34,602 --> 00:49:37,770
ne� "otvoren� okruh".
652
00:49:37,771 --> 00:49:41,316
�udia, pou��vaj�ci "uzavret� okruh",
653
00:49:41,317 --> 00:49:43,902
m��u za�a� z ni���ch v��ok.
654
00:49:43,903 --> 00:49:46,362
Probl�m s "uzavret�m okruhom" bol,
655
00:49:46,363 --> 00:49:49,282
�e jedin�, kto ho vedel pou��va�,
656
00:49:49,283 --> 00:49:52,160
bol jeho navrhovate�, Tom Bourdillon.
657
00:49:52,161 --> 00:49:54,954
Prv� pokus o vrchol
658
00:49:54,955 --> 00:49:57,081
s vyu�it�m kysl�ka
z "uzavret�ho okruhu"
659
00:49:57,082 --> 00:50:01,669
podnikol Tom Bourdillon
s Charlesom Evansom.
660
00:50:02,838 --> 00:50:07,884
John Hunt �iel
do Ju�n�ho sedla ako podpora.
661
00:50:13,599 --> 00:50:16,142
Evans a Bourdillon
opustili predsunut� z�kladn� t�bor
662
00:50:16,143 --> 00:50:18,061
v Z�padnom kotli
663
00:50:18,062 --> 00:50:21,898
a vyrazili do t�bora v Ju�nom sedle.
664
00:50:22,233 --> 00:50:24,901
Tom a Charles
pokra�ovali cestou
665
00:50:24,902 --> 00:50:27,946
z Ju�n�ho sedla na vrchol.
666
00:50:28,572 --> 00:50:31,241
V tom �ase som si myslel,
�e maj� �ancu,
667
00:50:31,242 --> 00:50:35,119
ale bola to pekelne dlh� cesta.
668
00:50:42,878 --> 00:50:45,380
Ak by Bourdillon
a Evans dosiahli vrchol,
669
00:50:45,381 --> 00:50:47,632
John Hunt by mohol poveda�:
"Pr�ca je skon�en�,"
670
00:50:47,633 --> 00:50:51,302
"ideme domov, v�etci s� v bezpe��!"
671
00:50:56,267 --> 00:50:59,936
Ale po�asie sa zhor�ilo
a v�etci na dva dni uviazli,
672
00:50:59,937 --> 00:51:04,440
vr�tane Bourdillona a Evansa,
v Ju�nom sedle.
673
00:51:05,568 --> 00:51:08,945
M�j otec a Tenzing opustili
predsunut� z�kladn� t�bor
674
00:51:08,946 --> 00:51:11,030
v Z�padnom kotli
675
00:51:11,031 --> 00:51:14,868
a pri�li do Ju�n�ho sedla
ako druh� vrcholov� t�m.
676
00:51:14,869 --> 00:51:18,204
Opustili sme z�kladn� t�bor
v Z�padnom kotli.
677
00:51:18,205 --> 00:51:20,123
Spolu s nami �la
aj podporn� skupina -
678
00:51:20,124 --> 00:51:24,711
George Lowe, Alf Gregory
a nieko�ko �erpov.
679
00:51:28,299 --> 00:51:30,717
Tenzing a ja,
ako �to�n� skupina,
680
00:51:30,718 --> 00:51:33,428
sme �li s "otvoren�m okruhom".
681
00:51:45,691 --> 00:51:49,402
Ke� Tenzing s mojim otcom
odch�dzali zo �tvrt�ho t�bora,
682
00:51:49,403 --> 00:51:52,906
Bourdillon a Evans pr�ve uskuto��ovali
ich vrcholov� pokus.
683
00:51:58,787 --> 00:52:00,997
Stenou Lhoce sme �li
684
00:52:00,998 --> 00:52:05,752
dlh�m traverzom,
ved�cim do Ju�n�ho sedla.
685
00:52:12,551 --> 00:52:14,928
Pr�ve sme prich�dzali
do Ju�n�ho sedla,
686
00:52:14,929 --> 00:52:17,722
ke� sme si v�imli
podporn� skupinu...
687
00:52:17,723 --> 00:52:21,893
George za�al kri�a� a sk�ka� naokolo.
688
00:52:21,894 --> 00:52:24,854
Pozreli sme hore
a zbadali Evansa a Bourdillona,
689
00:52:24,855 --> 00:52:27,816
smeruj�c na mali�k� �t�t
priamo nad nami...
690
00:52:27,817 --> 00:52:31,194
na Ju�n� vrchol.
691
00:52:31,821 --> 00:52:35,156
Mysl�m, �e to mohlo by�
nejako napoludnie.
692
00:52:35,157 --> 00:52:39,118
Mysleli sme si:
"�... napoludnie s� na Ju�nom vrchole."
693
00:52:39,119 --> 00:52:42,664
"Maj� �as dosta� sa
na hlavn� vrchol."
694
00:52:44,458 --> 00:52:47,335
"Dosiahnu ho."
695
00:52:48,921 --> 00:52:52,090
Ke� sa Bourdillon a Evans
stratili z doh�adu,
696
00:52:52,091 --> 00:52:54,008
vypukli ve�k� em�cie,
697
00:52:54,009 --> 00:52:57,220
preto�e t�to �udia
by tam u� ka�d� chv��u mali by�.
698
00:53:00,766 --> 00:53:05,854
Dorazili sme na Ju�n� sedlo.
699
00:53:10,276 --> 00:53:12,861
O nie�o nesk�r
sme museli d�va� pozor
700
00:53:12,862 --> 00:53:14,946
na mraky,
prich�dzaj�ce ponad hory.
701
00:53:14,947 --> 00:53:18,283
Za�ali sme ma� trocha obavy
o Evansa a Bourdillona.
702
00:53:18,284 --> 00:53:20,451
Na��astie, mysl�m,
�e o pol �tvrtej
703
00:53:20,452 --> 00:53:22,787
ich George znova zbadal,
704
00:53:22,788 --> 00:53:25,665
sch�dzaj�c dole kulo�rom
z Juhov�chodn�ho hrebe�a
705
00:53:25,666 --> 00:53:28,459
do Ju�n�ho sedla.
706
00:53:31,714 --> 00:53:33,464
Pre�iel dlh� �as
707
00:53:33,465 --> 00:53:36,050
k�m za�ali samotn� zostup dole.
708
00:53:40,222 --> 00:53:45,852
Ako sch�dzali dole,
boli zrete�ne ve�mi unaven�.
709
00:53:51,275 --> 00:53:53,818
Ke� Bourdillon a Evans
sch�dzali dole,
710
00:53:53,819 --> 00:53:57,363
otec im vyrazil naproti.
711
00:54:02,995 --> 00:54:05,246
�udia maj� tendenciu vidie�,
712
00:54:05,247 --> 00:54:09,125
�e tento naozaj dobr� �lovek
im ide naproti, aby im pomohol z�s� dole.
713
00:54:09,126 --> 00:54:12,337
A tak to aj rozhodne bolo.
714
00:54:13,047 --> 00:54:16,799
Ale hnala ho za nimi aj druh� vec,
715
00:54:16,800 --> 00:54:18,635
ke�e chcel vyliez� na vrchol...
716
00:54:18,636 --> 00:54:22,347
potreboval vedie�:
"Kam sa a� dostali?"
717
00:54:26,060 --> 00:54:27,602
Povedali n�m,
718
00:54:27,603 --> 00:54:29,145
�e v poriadku dosiahli Ju�n� vrchol,
719
00:54:29,146 --> 00:54:31,189
pozerali po vrcholovom hrebeni,
720
00:54:31,190 --> 00:54:36,486
ale nemali dostatok �asu,
kysl�ka, �i energie �s� �alej.
721
00:54:46,413 --> 00:54:48,373
Boli v hroznom stave.
722
00:54:48,374 --> 00:54:51,543
Charles Evans v��inu d�a
liezol s kysl�kov�m pr�strojom,
723
00:54:51,544 --> 00:54:53,086
ktor� nepracoval spr�vne,
724
00:54:53,087 --> 00:54:56,047
tak�e bol inhalovan� oxidom
uhli�it�m, rovnako ako kysl�kom.
725
00:54:56,048 --> 00:55:01,928
Tie� si mysl�m, �e Tom Bourdillon
bol na tom aj psychicky zle,
726
00:55:01,929 --> 00:55:04,222
preto�e to pre neho ve�a znamenalo.
727
00:55:04,223 --> 00:55:09,060
Pr�ve on navrhol tento
kysl�kov� pr�stroj, ktor� zlyhal.
728
00:55:09,228 --> 00:55:14,399
Psychicky aj fyzicky
boli na tom rovnako zle.
729
00:55:15,568 --> 00:55:19,195
Tom Bourdillon hovoril st�le dokola:
"Mali sme tam �s�!"
730
00:55:19,196 --> 00:55:21,281
"Mali sme pokra�ova�!"
731
00:55:21,282 --> 00:55:24,200
"Mali sme pokra�ova�!"
732
00:55:27,997 --> 00:55:29,831
Evans a Bourdillon
733
00:55:29,832 --> 00:55:32,959
boli ve�mi siln�
a sk�sen� horolezci.
734
00:55:35,337 --> 00:55:39,841
Dostali sa vy��ie,
ne� ktoko�vek in� pred nimi...
735
00:55:40,634 --> 00:55:42,468
dosiahli Ju�n� vrchol
736
00:55:42,469 --> 00:55:46,848
a mali na dosah hrebe�,
ostr� takmer ako britva.
737
00:55:46,849 --> 00:55:50,977
Charles Evans povedal Edovi Hillarymu
nie�o v tomto zmysle:
738
00:55:50,978 --> 00:55:57,775
"Posledn� hrebe� sa zd� by� ve�mi �a�k�,
neviem, �i ho prejdete."
739
00:56:18,422 --> 00:56:21,841
V��ku nad 8000 metrov
naz�vame "z�na smrti",
740
00:56:21,842 --> 00:56:25,386
preto�e tam pomaly zomierate.
741
00:56:25,387 --> 00:56:29,933
Nie je to miesto pre �ud�.
742
00:56:34,814 --> 00:56:38,024
John Hunt bol vodca,
ved�ci spredu.
743
00:56:38,025 --> 00:56:40,985
Teraz bol v Ju�nom sedle,
744
00:56:40,986 --> 00:56:42,987
kde chcel pozorova� v�stup na vrchol.
745
00:56:42,988 --> 00:56:47,826
No, my sme pochopili,
�e nie je dos� siln� vydr�a� tam dlh�ie.
746
00:56:48,661 --> 00:56:50,328
Bol to klasick� pr�pad
747
00:56:50,329 --> 00:56:53,957
niekoho, kto bol pr�li� vysoko.
748
00:56:53,958 --> 00:56:56,334
Prekro�il svoju hranicu,
749
00:56:56,335 --> 00:56:58,628
rovnako ako Tom Bourdillon
a Charles Evans.
750
00:56:58,629 --> 00:57:03,758
Nakoniec sa nechal presved�i�
z�s� s nimi dole.
751
00:57:04,635 --> 00:57:07,762
Boli vy�erpan�
a my sme mali o nich strach.
752
00:57:07,763 --> 00:57:12,141
Vyhrabali sme im
nejak� kysl�k na pomoc.
753
00:57:12,768 --> 00:57:15,186
Sedlo som ve�mi ner�d op���al,
754
00:57:15,187 --> 00:57:16,896
ale po ur�itej diskusii
755
00:57:16,897 --> 00:57:19,691
som videl,
�e druh� skupinu t�m neoslab�m.
756
00:57:19,692 --> 00:57:25,572
Iba som dal Edovi povzbudzuj�ce
in�trukcie, aby nepod�ahli.
757
00:57:27,158 --> 00:57:29,784
Pre exped�ciu to bol ve�k� moment.
758
00:57:29,785 --> 00:57:33,580
Vodca v �om obetoval
svoje vlastn� amb�cie.
759
00:57:33,581 --> 00:57:36,040
Ed Hillary povedal:
"Nikdy viac"
760
00:57:36,041 --> 00:57:39,794
"som pred Johnom Huntom
nemal v��� re�pekt."
761
00:57:56,061 --> 00:57:58,104
Bolo treba ��msk�r �s�,
762
00:57:58,105 --> 00:58:00,565
preto�e monz�n mal dorazi�
v prv� j�nov� t��de�
763
00:58:00,566 --> 00:58:03,902
a m�j sa u� bl�il ku koncu.
764
00:58:06,363 --> 00:58:09,741
Hillary a Tenzing
nemohli vyrazi� na vrchol
765
00:58:09,742 --> 00:58:11,659
z Ju�n�ho sedla,
766
00:58:11,660 --> 00:58:14,120
preto�e by museli
so sebou nies� pr�li� ve�a kysl�ka.
767
00:58:14,121 --> 00:58:19,459
Jedin� mo�nos� bola vyrazi�
na vrchol z vy��ieho bodu.
768
00:58:24,590 --> 00:58:27,425
Nasleduj�ci de�
bol extr�mny vietor a zima.
769
00:58:27,426 --> 00:58:30,887
�iaden posun hore nebol mo�n�.
770
00:58:31,222 --> 00:58:33,723
Str�vili sme ho pr�pravou
kysl�ka a zariadenia
771
00:58:33,724 --> 00:58:38,186
s n�dejou, �e �al�� de�
bude jasn� a pr�jemn�.
772
00:58:41,607 --> 00:58:45,985
V noci pou��vali kysl�k,
s�laj�ci s ve�mi n�zkou r�chlos�ou.
773
00:58:45,986 --> 00:58:47,654
Pom�hal im lep�ie zaspa�
774
00:58:47,655 --> 00:58:51,199
a bolo im pri tom trocha teplej�ie.
775
00:58:54,119 --> 00:58:56,162
Noc je �a�k� doba.
776
00:58:56,163 --> 00:58:59,541
Le�� tam, na��vaj�c zvukom hory...
777
00:59:02,670 --> 00:59:06,256
na��vaj�c vetru...
lav�nam...
778
00:59:06,257 --> 00:59:09,592
mysliac si: "M�j Bo�e..."
779
00:59:10,928 --> 00:59:14,055
"d�moni prich�dzaj�!"
780
00:59:20,813 --> 00:59:24,607
Ofici�lny pl�n bol,
�e Gregory spolu s tromi �erpami
781
00:59:24,608 --> 00:59:26,818
sa postaraj� o vy��� t�bor.
782
00:59:26,819 --> 00:59:31,906
Ale jeden �erpa v sedle skolaboval,
preto �iel skor�ie dole.
783
00:59:31,907 --> 00:59:34,868
Pri n�s zostali iba dvaja �erpovia.
784
00:59:37,955 --> 00:59:41,875
Na druh� de�
sme zam���ali robi� vyn�ku.
785
00:59:41,876 --> 00:59:44,085
No pri poh�adee do stanu
786
00:59:44,086 --> 00:59:47,380
sme na�li �erpu Pembu
vo ve�mi zlom stave.
787
00:59:48,674 --> 00:59:50,550
Bolo zrejm�, �e vyn�a� nebude,
788
00:59:50,551 --> 00:59:55,388
preto sme si jeho z�a�
museli prerozdeli�.
789
01:00:01,228 --> 01:00:03,563
Hne� zr�na sme vedeli,
790
01:00:03,564 --> 01:00:08,151
�e budeme musie� po prerozdelen�
nies� v��iu z�a�.
791
01:00:09,361 --> 01:00:15,950
George Lowe, ja a Ang Nyima
sme odch�dzali asi o �tvr� na dev�.
792
01:00:20,748 --> 01:00:24,459
Ed a Tenzing op���ali
Ju�n� sedlo hodinu za nami,
793
01:00:24,460 --> 01:00:27,921
aby �etrili energiu a vystupovali
r�chlej�ie po na�ich stop�ch,
794
01:00:27,922 --> 01:00:31,049
t�m p�dom �etrili aj ich kysl�k.
795
01:00:31,383 --> 01:00:34,969
Niesli sme 25 - 30 kg.
796
01:00:34,970 --> 01:00:38,306
Edova vyn�ku sme odhadli
taktie� na okolo 30 kg.
797
01:00:38,307 --> 01:00:42,227
Pre dan� nadmorsk� v��ku
to bolo celkom enormn� za�a�enie.
798
01:00:44,271 --> 01:00:48,274
V sedle dul ve�mi siln� vietor.
799
01:00:48,275 --> 01:00:51,402
Mali sme ve�mi �a�k� podmienky.
800
01:00:51,403 --> 01:00:54,614
St�pali sme hrebe�om,
h�adaj�c ploch� miesto.
801
01:01:01,539 --> 01:01:05,208
Dlho sme miesto pre t�bor
nemohli n�js�.
802
01:01:05,709 --> 01:01:08,962
Tenzing nakoniec predsa len na�iel
803
01:01:08,963 --> 01:01:13,716
plo�inku
pod jedn�m skaln�m �tesom.
804
01:01:14,969 --> 01:01:17,303
Pomohli n�m s najvy���m t�borom,
805
01:01:17,304 --> 01:01:19,305
ak� bol kedy na Evereste
ako aj in�ch hor�ch...
806
01:01:19,306 --> 01:01:23,101
vo v��ke 8500 metrov.
807
01:01:33,445 --> 01:01:37,615
Nikto nikdy predt�m
net�boril vo vy��ej v��ke.
808
01:01:38,951 --> 01:01:41,870
George Lowe a Alf Gregory
urobili nieko�ko fotografi�
809
01:01:41,871 --> 01:01:45,123
a podali n�m ruky so slovami:
"Dovidenia a ve�a ��astia!"
810
01:01:45,124 --> 01:01:47,667
"My rad�ej vyraz�me dole."
811
01:01:47,668 --> 01:01:52,422
Bol to ��asn� doj�mav� okamih.
812
01:01:52,423 --> 01:01:55,925
Ang Nyima bol ve�mi unaven�,
mal by �s� dole.
813
01:01:55,926 --> 01:01:59,095
On ale povedal otcovi,
�e chce zosta�,
814
01:01:59,096 --> 01:02:03,391
navar� nejak� �aj,
pom��e im pri zostupe.
815
01:02:03,684 --> 01:02:07,061
Viem, �e otec
bol t�m ve�mi dojat�.
816
01:02:07,062 --> 01:02:11,357
Ale nakoniec predsa len
za�ali zostupova� dole.
817
01:02:11,358 --> 01:02:16,029
Hillaryho a Tenzinga
zanechali �plne samotn�ch.
818
01:02:20,034 --> 01:02:22,911
So sm�tkom sme
819
01:02:22,912 --> 01:02:25,455
sledovali Georga, Grega
a Sherpu Ang Nyimu
820
01:02:25,456 --> 01:02:28,541
ako sch�dzaj� dole a zanech�vaj�
n�s tam �plne samotn�ch.
821
01:02:28,542 --> 01:02:31,419
Ove�a rad�ej by sme mali pri sebe
v noci nejak� spolo�nos�.
822
01:02:31,420 --> 01:02:35,256
Aj tak museli �s� dole,
nemali sme tam dostatok kysl�ka.
823
01:02:36,175 --> 01:02:40,512
Zostali tam �plne sami,
odrezan� od sveta,
824
01:02:40,513 --> 01:02:42,931
bez ak�hoko�vek r�diov�ho kontaktu.
825
01:02:42,932 --> 01:02:44,516
Ak by sa stratili,
826
01:02:44,517 --> 01:02:48,520
ka�d� by sa iba �udoval:
"�o sa s nimi stalo?"
827
01:02:49,355 --> 01:02:52,398
Mysl�m, �e sa museli c�ti�
ve�mi nap�to,
828
01:02:52,399 --> 01:02:56,486
osamelo a vystra�ene.
829
01:03:08,958 --> 01:03:12,168
Stavanie stanu n�m zabralo
dve hodiny tvrdej pr�ce
830
01:03:12,169 --> 01:03:16,506
na plo�inke 2x3 metre.
831
01:03:20,928 --> 01:03:23,388
Smerom k vrcholu Everestu
832
01:03:23,389 --> 01:03:26,057
duj� ve�mi siln� vetry.
833
01:03:26,058 --> 01:03:29,435
Oni boli k tomuto svahu
ve�mi neisto prip�tan�.
834
01:03:29,436 --> 01:03:31,062
Po cel� �as mali strach,
835
01:03:31,063 --> 01:03:33,898
�e ich z hory odf�kne.
836
01:03:34,692 --> 01:03:37,068
Ke� vietor za�ne ve�er silnie�,
837
01:03:37,069 --> 01:03:38,987
ste v celkom nebezpe�nej poz�cii,
838
01:03:38,988 --> 01:03:41,948
preto�e ste k hore prip�tan�.
839
01:03:42,241 --> 01:03:44,450
Ten hluk je ozaj desiv�.
840
01:03:57,673 --> 01:04:02,427
T�to noc bola najchladnej�ia,
ak� bola na exped�cii zaznamenan�.
841
01:04:07,308 --> 01:04:09,392
Je to tak�
dehydrata�n� prostredie.
842
01:04:09,393 --> 01:04:11,186
Jedin� mo�nos�, ako z�ska� vodu
843
01:04:11,187 --> 01:04:14,772
je rozt�penie snehu alebo �adu.
844
01:04:14,899 --> 01:04:18,443
Mus�te sa osemkr�t viac
nad�chnu� ako pri hladine mora.
845
01:04:18,444 --> 01:04:20,695
M��ete strati� viac ne� liter denne,
846
01:04:20,696 --> 01:04:23,656
iba kv�li nadmernej d�chavi�nosti
v takejto nadmorskej v��ke.
847
01:04:23,657 --> 01:04:25,617
Okrem toho, vzduch je tak such�,
848
01:04:25,618 --> 01:04:28,661
�e saje vlhkos�
priamo z va�ej poko�ky.
849
01:04:38,047 --> 01:04:40,507
Usadil som sa �o najkomfortnej�ie,
850
01:04:40,508 --> 01:04:44,093
napoly sediac
a napoly si opieraj�c chrb�t.
851
01:04:44,094 --> 01:04:48,264
Nebolo to pr�jemn�, ale pom�halo to
mojim ruk�m a noh�m
852
01:04:48,265 --> 01:04:53,561
dr�a� na�e skromn� ukotvenie stanu
pred poryvmi vetra.
853
01:04:57,066 --> 01:04:58,650
V��kov� horolezectvo
854
01:04:58,651 --> 01:05:03,571
je v�dy o tom, ako si urobi� pohodlie
na nepohodln�ch miestach.
855
01:05:05,366 --> 01:05:09,786
V z�kladnom pre��van� zo d�a na de�
bol Ed rovnako dobr� ako Tenzing.
856
01:05:09,787 --> 01:05:13,498
Mysl�m, �e v tomto
si ozaj zapasovali.
857
01:05:22,216 --> 01:05:24,551
Za�iatkom noci vietor ustal.
858
01:05:24,552 --> 01:05:28,763
Mali sme nejak� kysl�k,
ktor� sme pou�ili na spiace ��ely
859
01:05:28,764 --> 01:05:32,725
po dobu asi �tyroch hod�n
zo �estn�stich, ktor� sme tam str�vili.
860
01:05:32,726 --> 01:05:34,811
Zaspali sme asi na �tyri hodiny,
861
01:05:34,812 --> 01:05:36,604
ale akon�hle do�iel kysl�k,
862
01:05:36,605 --> 01:05:41,025
okam�ite sme sa
kv�li zime zobudili.
863
01:05:41,045 --> 01:05:45,488
Po cel� �as si myslel:
"Zajtra nebudem kysl�k potrebova�."
864
01:05:45,489 --> 01:05:48,283
Nastala ale jedna chyba.
865
01:05:48,284 --> 01:05:51,703
Vyvliekli so sebou
obrovsk� �iernu kysl�kov� bombu,
866
01:05:51,704 --> 01:05:53,997
z ktorej kysl�k
pl�novali pou�i� na spanie.
867
01:05:53,998 --> 01:05:56,082
Ale nane��astie po jej vynesen�
868
01:05:56,083 --> 01:05:58,751
zistili, �e niekto odniesol
nasp� dole rozvodku,
869
01:05:58,752 --> 01:06:02,130
tak�e f�a�a bola nepou�ite�n�.
870
01:06:03,215 --> 01:06:05,884
Nebol som �plne presved�en�,
871
01:06:05,885 --> 01:06:09,095
�i uspejeme.
872
01:06:12,516 --> 01:06:14,559
Dobre som si bol
vedom� skuto�nosti,
873
01:06:14,560 --> 01:06:17,395
�e o horu sa pok��ali
ve�mi dobr� exped�cie,
874
01:06:17,396 --> 01:06:21,816
dostali sa ve�mi vysoko,
ale aj tak neboli �spe�n�.
875
01:06:29,700 --> 01:06:34,037
R�no o pol siedmej
sme vy�li zo stanov.
876
01:06:35,122 --> 01:06:39,959
Nestr�cali sme zbyto�ne �as pr�pravou
kysl�kov�ho pr�stroja a zariadenia.
877
01:06:42,922 --> 01:06:45,423
V tomto bode to bolo
v�etko iba o kysl�ku.
878
01:06:45,424 --> 01:06:47,675
Hillary o �om neust�le prem���al:
879
01:06:47,676 --> 01:06:49,719
"Ko�ko kysl�ka budeme potrebova�?"
880
01:06:49,720 --> 01:06:52,263
"Bude ho s�la� dostatok?"
881
01:06:52,264 --> 01:06:55,767
"Pri v��om mno�stve
sa c�tim lep�ie,"
882
01:06:55,768 --> 01:06:59,354
"ale zase r�chlej�ie miniem f�a�u."
883
01:07:08,864 --> 01:07:10,824
Bola ve�mi ve�k� zima.
884
01:07:10,825 --> 01:07:13,576
Namerali pod -25 stup�ov.
885
01:07:13,577 --> 01:07:17,372
Tak�to chlad "do �piku kost�"
886
01:07:17,373 --> 01:07:19,332
je ako �tok...
887
01:07:19,333 --> 01:07:22,377
ozaj desiv�.
888
01:07:22,711 --> 01:07:25,505
T�mov� psychol�g povedal:
"Ke� ste vo vysokej nadmorskej v��ke,"
889
01:07:25,506 --> 01:07:27,966
"pri lezen� sa v�m
mus� dost�va� kysl�k"
890
01:07:27,967 --> 01:07:29,884
"r�chlos�ou �tyri litre za min�tu."
891
01:07:29,885 --> 01:07:34,722
"Pri men�ej hodnote
z neho nem�te skuto�n� prospech."
892
01:07:35,474 --> 01:07:38,560
N� postup bol zo za�iatku
celkom stabiln�,
893
01:07:38,561 --> 01:07:40,311
ale akoko�vek sme sa zaoberali
dod�vkou kysl�ka,
894
01:07:40,312 --> 01:07:42,981
zistili sme, �e sa nem��eme dosta�
na po�adovan� �tyri litre za min�tu,
895
01:07:42,982 --> 01:07:44,983
ak chceme ma� �ancu
dosiahnu� vrchol.
896
01:07:44,984 --> 01:07:47,777
Museli sme ju zn�i� na tri.
897
01:07:52,116 --> 01:07:57,245
Pomerne jednoduch� prepo�et
prietoku kysl�ka
898
01:07:57,246 --> 01:08:00,165
je hore neuverite�ne zlo�it�,
899
01:08:00,166 --> 01:08:05,628
preto�e kv�li nedostatku kysl�ka
ste zm�ten�.
900
01:08:43,167 --> 01:08:44,876
Za nejak� �as
901
01:08:44,877 --> 01:08:47,170
sme dosiahli dno 120 m svahu,
902
01:08:47,171 --> 01:08:49,547
ktor� viedol na Ju�n� vrchol.
903
01:08:49,548 --> 01:08:53,468
Tento svah bol nesmierne prudk�.
904
01:08:54,845 --> 01:08:59,307
C�tili sme, �e z tohto snehu
m��e �ahko vznikn�� lav�na.
905
01:08:59,558 --> 01:09:01,601
Ke� dr�� trocha srie�,
906
01:09:01,602 --> 01:09:03,686
zd� sa ti, akoby si st�l
na pevnej zemi.
907
01:09:03,687 --> 01:09:06,105
Ke�e je naspodu pr�kov� sneh,
�ahko sa m��e da� do pohybu.
908
01:09:06,106 --> 01:09:08,733
To Hillaryho znepokojovalo.
909
01:09:08,734 --> 01:09:11,653
Kv�li strachu z lav�ny
910
01:09:11,654 --> 01:09:14,656
mali aj tak�to rozhovor.
911
01:09:14,657 --> 01:09:17,283
Spom�nam si, �e som sa obr�til
na Tenzinga a povedal mu:
912
01:09:17,284 --> 01:09:19,494
"�o si o tom mysl�, Tenzing?"
913
01:09:19,495 --> 01:09:21,246
Povedal, �e sa mu to v�bec nep��i.
914
01:09:21,247 --> 01:09:23,998
Us�dil,
�e je to rozhodne nebezpe�n�.
915
01:09:29,547 --> 01:09:31,172
Potom som mu povedal:
"Ako teda mysl�,"
916
01:09:31,173 --> 01:09:32,799
"m�me �s� �alej?"
917
01:09:32,800 --> 01:09:36,594
On odpovedal:
"Nech�m to na teba."
918
01:09:38,556 --> 01:09:44,144
Liezli sme hore so zna�nou d�vkou
strachu a �zkosti.
919
01:09:46,313 --> 01:09:49,858
Mysl�m, �e prv�kr�t v �ivote
som sa musel rozhodnu�,
920
01:09:49,859 --> 01:09:52,819
�i je nie�o ospravedlnite�n� alebo nie.
921
01:09:52,820 --> 01:09:57,198
Rozhodne to ospravedlnite�n� nebolo,
ale aj tak sme pokra�ovali.
922
01:09:59,827 --> 01:10:02,412
Si priamo na okraji nemo�n�ho
923
01:10:02,413 --> 01:10:06,374
a ka�d�m krokom si st�le
vo v��om nebezpe�enstve.
924
01:10:06,375 --> 01:10:10,795
Vtedy je poku�enie
oto�i� sa a �s� dole ozaj siln�.
925
01:10:14,300 --> 01:10:16,467
Boj�m sa pr�li� dlho zost�va�
926
01:10:16,468 --> 01:10:18,511
v nebezpe�nom ter�ne.
927
01:10:18,512 --> 01:10:22,849
Ale mysl�m, �e strach
je jedn�m z d�le�it�ch faktorov.
928
01:10:23,142 --> 01:10:26,269
Je to stimuluj�ci faktor.
929
01:10:26,437 --> 01:10:29,105
Samozrejme, �e ke�
"skamenie�" od strachu,
930
01:10:29,106 --> 01:10:32,066
potom je to bezn�dejn�.
931
01:10:42,244 --> 01:10:45,371
Jadrom toho je,
�i dok�e� pre�i� alebo nie.
932
01:10:45,372 --> 01:10:47,499
Vie�, �e tam hore
nem� ni� garantovan�.
933
01:10:47,500 --> 01:10:50,251
Ak sa ti tam nie�o stane,
934
01:10:50,252 --> 01:10:52,795
aj relat�vne ban�lna nehoda,
935
01:10:52,796 --> 01:10:57,967
ve�mi r�chlo m��e
prer�s� do smrte�nej.
936
01:11:03,182 --> 01:11:04,849
Nastala ve�k� ��ava,
937
01:11:04,850 --> 01:11:07,811
ke� sme o deviatej
dosiahli Ju�n� vrchol.
938
01:11:09,355 --> 01:11:10,939
Kysl�k sa r�chlo m��al,
939
01:11:10,940 --> 01:11:15,610
preto sme nestr�cali �as
a vyrazili na hrebe�.
940
01:11:18,989 --> 01:11:23,827
Pokra�ovali sme ale pomaly
a �as bol proti n�m.
941
01:11:29,917 --> 01:11:33,253
Evans a Bourdillon
ke� dosiahli Ju�n� vrchol,
942
01:11:33,254 --> 01:11:37,841
mali v�hrady vo�i trase pred sebou.
943
01:11:38,342 --> 01:11:42,637
Evans podotkol, �e sa jedn�
o ve�mi obtia�ny ostr� hrebe�.
944
01:11:42,638 --> 01:11:44,889
Je z�bkovan�
945
01:11:44,890 --> 01:11:49,144
s hrozn�mi prevismi na oboch stran�ch.
946
01:11:49,145 --> 01:11:54,357
Museli ma� obavy,
�i to dok�u vyliez�.
947
01:11:57,194 --> 01:11:59,154
Na�avo m�te
948
01:11:59,155 --> 01:12:00,738
obrovsk� juhoz�padn� stenu Everestu.
949
01:12:00,739 --> 01:12:02,282
Ak by ste �ou padli dole,
950
01:12:02,283 --> 01:12:04,784
pravdepodobne by ste sa zastavili
a� v Z�padnom kotli -
951
01:12:04,785 --> 01:12:07,662
o 2500 v��kov�ch metrov nadol.
952
01:12:09,373 --> 01:12:12,458
Sprava je e�te v��ia priepas� -
953
01:12:12,459 --> 01:12:14,711
stena Kang�ung.
954
01:12:14,712 --> 01:12:17,672
To v�m ur�ite s�stred� myse�.
955
01:12:21,302 --> 01:12:22,886
Pre horolezca
956
01:12:22,887 --> 01:12:24,929
je my�lienka o procese umierania
957
01:12:24,930 --> 01:12:26,764
viac nepr�jemn�,
958
01:12:26,765 --> 01:12:31,102
ne� skuto�nos�, �e na jej konci
m��e� by� m�tvy.
959
01:12:39,195 --> 01:12:43,615
Dobu pozorovania
zo �tvrt�ho t�bora
960
01:12:43,616 --> 01:12:48,369
sme pre��vali ve�mi �zkostlivo.
961
01:12:52,917 --> 01:12:55,960
Samozrejme, d�fali sme,
�e na�e mal� vysiela�ky
962
01:12:55,961 --> 01:12:58,296
vydr�ia aspo� do Ju�n�ho sedla,
963
01:12:58,297 --> 01:13:01,341
ale t�, �o bolo vynesen�
do Ju�n�ho sedla, nepracovala.
964
01:13:01,342 --> 01:13:04,260
T�m p�dom sme si boli vydom�,
�e nebudeme vedie�,
965
01:13:04,261 --> 01:13:07,138
�i boli Hillary s Tenzingom �spe�n�,
966
01:13:07,139 --> 01:13:11,518
k�m nepr�du dole a nepovedia n�m to.
967
01:13:14,480 --> 01:13:18,858
Nikto ani netu�il,
kde s�, ako id�,
968
01:13:18,859 --> 01:13:23,571
�i boli �spe�n�
alebo sa vracaj� dole.
969
01:13:35,709 --> 01:13:37,585
Na�e kysl�kov� zariadenie
970
01:13:37,586 --> 01:13:39,420
nebolo v �iadnom pr�pade
najmodernej�ie.
971
01:13:39,421 --> 01:13:42,173
Malo iba tlakomer,
972
01:13:42,174 --> 01:13:47,053
tak�e sme v�bec nevedeli,
ko�ko kysl�ka v �om e�te zost�va.
973
01:13:47,054 --> 01:13:50,223
Mozog mi pracoval dos� energicky,
974
01:13:50,224 --> 01:13:54,519
aby spo��tal,
ko�ko �asu n�m zost�va.
975
01:13:58,691 --> 01:14:01,943
Jeden z probl�mov lezenia
v extr�mnych nadmorsk�ch v��kach
976
01:14:01,944 --> 01:14:04,028
je zlyhanie kysl�kov�ch syst�mov.
977
01:14:04,029 --> 01:14:10,577
Ke� d�jde kysl�k,
�udia nezriedka zomieraj�.
978
01:14:10,744 --> 01:14:12,912
Zrazu nastal mal� probl�m.
979
01:14:12,913 --> 01:14:14,497
Tenzing prest�val vl�da�
980
01:14:14,498 --> 01:14:18,126
nasledova� Hillaryho.
981
01:14:20,379 --> 01:14:21,921
Zrazu som si v�imol,
982
01:14:21,922 --> 01:14:24,757
�e Tenzing chyt� ak�si kr�zu.
983
01:14:24,758 --> 01:14:26,634
Ke� som sa na neho pozrel bli��ie,
984
01:14:26,635 --> 01:14:29,179
videl som,
�e d�cha pr�li� r�chlo.
985
01:14:29,180 --> 01:14:31,431
Okam�ite som presk�mal
jeho kysl�ko� pr�stroj
986
01:14:31,432 --> 01:14:34,517
a zistil som,
�e v�stup z jeho kysl�kovej masky
987
01:14:34,518 --> 01:14:38,271
bol takmer �plne
zablokovan� �adom.
988
01:14:42,234 --> 01:14:45,945
Na��astie som bol ten �ad
schopn� uvo�ni�.
989
01:14:48,908 --> 01:14:50,658
Vzh�adom k n�hlej hypoxii
990
01:14:50,659 --> 01:14:52,535
m� spomalen� myslenie.
991
01:14:52,536 --> 01:14:54,370
Preto nem��e� okam�ite pochopi�:
992
01:14:54,371 --> 01:14:57,123
"Ach, to je preto, lebo kysl�kov�
pr�stroj nepracuje spr�vne."
993
01:14:57,124 --> 01:15:01,628
Sk�r si pomysl�: "Ach, Bo�e...
ak�si som zrazu ve�mi unaven�."
994
01:15:08,135 --> 01:15:13,389
Vtedy m� �udn�,
�ahko surrealistick� rozostrenie
995
01:15:13,390 --> 01:15:18,394
obrazov, my�lienok a n�padov,
hm�riacich sa v tvojej hlave.
996
01:15:24,360 --> 01:15:30,740
Preto sa mus�te navz�jom
ve�mi starostlivo kontrolova�.
997
01:15:56,433 --> 01:15:57,976
Asi po hodine
998
01:15:57,977 --> 01:16:01,020
sme mali za sebou
celkom ve�k� kus hrebe�a.
999
01:16:01,021 --> 01:16:03,648
Vtedy sme do�li na skaln� �tes,
1000
01:16:03,649 --> 01:16:05,942
ktor� n�m zatarasil cestu po hrebeni.
1001
01:16:05,943 --> 01:16:09,904
Vtedy som si u� ozaj myslel,
�e �alej ned�jdeme.
1002
01:16:11,615 --> 01:16:13,158
Vyfotil som to,
1003
01:16:13,159 --> 01:16:15,410
preto�e t�to skala bola ve�mi strm�
1004
01:16:15,411 --> 01:16:18,872
a vedeli sme,
�e n�s m��e zastavi�.
1005
01:16:24,628 --> 01:16:29,132
Je tak�to v��vih v�bec zlezite�n�?
1006
01:16:30,009 --> 01:16:35,138
A e�te k tomu vo v��ke 8800 metrov?
1007
01:16:35,681 --> 01:16:38,808
Nikto nikdy tam predt�m nebol.
1008
01:16:39,268 --> 01:16:42,103
Je to pekeln� v��vih.
1009
01:16:43,022 --> 01:16:48,067
Pozer�te na to s pomyslen�m:
"Ach, m�j Bo�e... �o teraz?"
1010
01:16:50,863 --> 01:16:53,990
Ale Sir Ed vzal na seba
to riziko a povedal:
1011
01:16:53,991 --> 01:16:57,702
"Sakra... idem na to!"
1012
01:17:02,249 --> 01:17:05,335
Jedin� mo�n� cesta sa mi zdala
cez prasklinu,
1013
01:17:05,336 --> 01:17:08,922
kde bol na skale nalepen� �ad.
1014
01:17:08,923 --> 01:17:13,760
Nebol som si celkom ist�,
�i �ad vydr�� na svojom mieste,
1015
01:17:13,761 --> 01:17:17,013
ke� som sa vydal nahor.
1016
01:17:20,017 --> 01:17:23,436
Ve�mi som sa b�l.
1017
01:17:27,441 --> 01:17:31,361
Pri v�stupe na tento
takmer kolm� v��vih
1018
01:17:31,362 --> 01:17:34,989
sa zasek�val v tomto kom�ne
viacmenej nohami.
1019
01:17:34,990 --> 01:17:39,494
Jeho stiesnen�mi nohami
tla�il v�avo na skalu,
1020
01:17:39,495 --> 01:17:43,873
a chrb�t mal zapret� vpravo v snehu
1021
01:17:43,874 --> 01:17:46,793
a iba d�fal, �e sneh vydr��
1022
01:17:46,794 --> 01:17:50,672
a nekatapultuje ho dole
3500-metrovou stenou Kang�ung,
1023
01:17:50,673 --> 01:17:55,176
vzh�adom k tomu, �e je sporn�,
�i by ho Norgay dok�zal pri p�de
1024
01:17:55,177 --> 01:17:58,680
udr�a� na lane.
1025
01:18:19,952 --> 01:18:22,287
Odlamovali sa mal� dosky.
1026
01:18:22,288 --> 01:18:26,624
Tieto podmienky rozhodne neboli
pre otca potechou.
1027
01:18:27,585 --> 01:18:29,752
Keby bol nasp� v Ju�n�ch Alp�ch,
1028
01:18:29,753 --> 01:18:32,881
pravdepodobne by sa oto�il
a sk�sil to �al�� de�.
1029
01:18:32,882 --> 01:18:35,967
Tu mu ale jeho vn�torn� hlas hovoril:
1030
01:18:35,968 --> 01:18:39,012
"Ed, chlap�e m�j... toto je Everest,"
1031
01:18:39,013 --> 01:18:42,557
"mus� sa dosta� �o najvy��ie!"
1032
01:18:49,106 --> 01:18:52,609
Zasek�van�m
mojich "ma�iek" do �adu zozadu,
1033
01:18:52,610 --> 01:18:54,694
�adov�ch hrotov na mojich top�nkach,
1034
01:18:54,695 --> 01:18:56,988
a lezen�m na skalu spredu,
1035
01:18:56,989 --> 01:19:02,535
som bol schopn� akosi sa pretla�i�
trhlinou a� na vrchol.
1036
01:19:04,205 --> 01:19:07,373
Po vyd�chan� sa, som zobral lano
1037
01:19:07,374 --> 01:19:09,042
a star�ho Tenzinga
1038
01:19:09,043 --> 01:19:12,253
s ve�kou z�a�ou som
tadia� pretl��al,
1039
01:19:12,254 --> 01:19:15,798
a� som ho taktie�
dostal na vrchol skaly.
1040
01:19:17,843 --> 01:19:19,886
S� chv�le v �ivote,
1041
01:19:19,887 --> 01:19:22,680
v ktor�ch m� by�
odv�ny a rozhodn�.
1042
01:19:22,681 --> 01:19:28,520
Tak ve�a z�viselo na Hillaryho
schopnostich zdola� v�etky prek�ky,
1043
01:19:28,521 --> 01:19:32,941
a on bol pri tom e�te schopn�
prida� nie�o naviac.
1044
01:19:40,991 --> 01:19:43,535
Ke� musel Hunt
z�s� z Ju�n�ho sedla,
1045
01:19:43,536 --> 01:19:45,745
obr�til sa k Edovi a povedal mu:
1046
01:19:45,746 --> 01:19:48,748
"Pozri... toto je na�a posledn� �anca."
1047
01:19:48,749 --> 01:19:52,836
"Na svoje plecia si berie�
ve�k� bremeno �udsk�ch n�dej�."
1048
01:19:54,463 --> 01:19:57,674
�o by sme urobili,
ak by sa to nepodarilo?
1049
01:19:57,675 --> 01:20:01,094
Vzh�adom k tom,
�e z�sadn� bol pocit Johna Hunta,
1050
01:20:01,095 --> 01:20:06,224
nemysl�m, �e by sa niekto
odv�il vyjadri� svoj n�zor.
1051
01:20:17,945 --> 01:20:19,904
Pokra�ovali sme...
1052
01:20:19,905 --> 01:20:22,157
ale boli sme st�le viac a viac
unaven� a z�fal�.
1053
01:20:22,158 --> 01:20:25,869
Zdalo sa, akoby samotn� vrchol
pred nami neust�le unikal.
1054
01:20:29,999 --> 01:20:32,083
Za Hillaryho v��vihom
1055
01:20:32,084 --> 01:20:35,712
je na vrchol e�te st�le
horizont�lne dos� �aleko.
1056
01:20:35,713 --> 01:20:40,925
Mus�te prejs� e�te
tri-�tyri roz�ahl� pahorky.
1057
01:20:41,260 --> 01:20:43,887
Ke� prejdete hrebe�om cez jeden,
1058
01:20:43,888 --> 01:20:46,097
za n�m sa objav� �al��
1059
01:20:46,098 --> 01:20:49,893
a vy si pomysl�te:
"M� tento hrebe� v�bec koniec?"
1060
01:21:01,197 --> 01:21:04,282
Iba niektor� �udsk� bytosti
1061
01:21:04,283 --> 01:21:06,659
s� tu schopn�
preklada� jednu nohu cez druh�.
1062
01:21:06,660 --> 01:21:11,498
S� schopn� ne�navne,
psychologicky to robi�,
1063
01:21:11,499 --> 01:21:14,709
zatia� �o ostatn�m sa to nepodar�.
1064
01:21:21,217 --> 01:21:23,968
Rezali sme kroky k vrcholu,
rana za ranou,
1065
01:21:23,969 --> 01:21:26,930
neust�le h�adiac k nemu...
1066
01:21:28,307 --> 01:21:32,894
a� sme ho predsa len
kone�ne dosiahli.
1067
01:22:26,073 --> 01:22:28,658
Pozrel som na Tenzinga
1068
01:22:28,659 --> 01:22:31,661
a dokonca aj cez
jeho kysl�kov� masku a kuklu
1069
01:22:31,662 --> 01:22:34,664
som videl jeho n�kazliv�
�smev a pote�enie.
1070
01:22:34,665 --> 01:22:36,791
Podali sme si ruky.
1071
01:22:36,792 --> 01:22:40,253
Tenzingovi to nesta�ilo,
1072
01:22:41,213 --> 01:22:43,173
tak sme st�skali jeden druh�ho,
1073
01:22:43,174 --> 01:22:46,134
k�m n�m dych sta�il.
1074
01:22:47,052 --> 01:22:51,347
Pozrel som hodinky...
bolo 11:30.
1075
01:22:59,523 --> 01:23:02,567
Na vrchole sme str�vili
iba �tvr�hodinu.
1076
01:23:02,568 --> 01:23:06,070
Cel� �as sme si boli vedom�,
�e n�m doch�dza kysl�k.
1077
01:23:06,071 --> 01:23:10,283
Nesmeli sme str�ca� �as
a museli �s� znova dole.
1078
01:23:10,910 --> 01:23:14,913
Dal som si dole kysl�k,
aby som mohol fotografova�.
1079
01:23:17,791 --> 01:23:20,502
Tenzing vyhrabal do snehu mal� dierku,
1080
01:23:20,503 --> 01:23:24,839
do ktorej vlo�il dar bohov.
1081
01:23:29,053 --> 01:23:30,970
Mali sme pekn� v�h�ad.
1082
01:23:30,971 --> 01:23:32,680
Odfotografoval som
1083
01:23:32,681 --> 01:23:34,766
cel� hlavn� hrebe� pod nami,
1084
01:23:34,767 --> 01:23:38,394
aby sme mali nejak� d�kaz,
�e sme boli na vrchole.
1085
01:23:48,781 --> 01:23:54,369
Pri fotografovan� Tenzing m�val svojim cep�nom,
na ktorom mal priviazan� �tyri vlajky.
1086
01:23:55,538 --> 01:23:58,581
Bol to ��asn� moment pre n�s oboch.
1087
01:24:10,082 --> 01:24:15,069
29. m�ja 1953 o 11:30 dosiahli Novoz�lan�an
Edmund Hillary a �erpa Tenzing Norgay
1088
01:24:15,070 --> 01:24:20,070
vo v��ke 8850 metrov nad morom
vrchol Mount Everestu - najvy��� bod Zeme.
1089
01:24:20,020 --> 01:24:25,006
Spr�va o �spechu britskej exped�cie
dorazila do Lond�na 2. j�na,
1090
01:24:25,007 --> 01:24:30,007
v de� korunov�cie kr�ovnej Al�bety.
1091
01:24:30,084 --> 01:24:35,071
Edmund Hillary zhrnul svoj �spech
jeho priate�ovi Georgovi Lowemu
1092
01:24:35,072 --> 01:24:40,072
do jednej vety...
"Zrazili sme toho bastarda."93073
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