All language subtitles for Bettany.Hughes.Treasures.of.the.World.S01E03.Gibraltar.720p.ALL4.WEB-DL.AAC2.0.H.264-NTb

I'm travelling the world,
exploring secrets and wonders...

This is really tight!

..an adventure by land and sea

to the most fascinating places...

This is absolutely incredible.

..where I've been given
special access

to significant and surprising
treasures...

It's so tiny and absolutely unique.

..buried in ancient sites,

extraordinary buildings

and glorious works of art...

..that help to explain
the story of us.

Come with me to discover how the past
shapes our lives.

This time, Gibraltar.

An iconic landmark

in sight of two continents -
Europe and Africa.

This rock's unique geography
and prime location

has given it a front-row seat
across thousands of years of history.

Gibraltar, or simply the Rock,

a British overseas territory,

might only span 2.5 square miles,
but it is packed with treasures.

Welcome to the Lost World.

It surveys the Strait of Gibraltar,
an artery linking two great seas -

the Atlantic and the Mediterranean.

It's just one small rock,

but it's been a driver,
both for world history
and for our imaginations,

a rock that's apparently
at the edge of things,

but that is actually
right at the heart

of the human story.

From Neanderthal discoveries

to Admiral Nelson
and the Battle of Trafalgar...

..great Islamic citadels

and the top-secret tunnels
that inspired James Bond...

Look at that.

..this rock has written us

the whole sweep
of the human experience,

so I can promise you some rich

and rather unexpected treasures.

Gibraltar's stories and histories

are dominated by a towering
1,300-foot Jurassic limestone rock

that rises out of the sea.

My first treasure dates back
before history, before prehistory,

before the invention of time
as we know it,

and it's hidden not on the Rock
but within it.

It's the lost world
of the Neanderthals,

who lived in some of the 200 caves
which honeycomb the Rock.

Ever since a ground-breaking
discovery was made here back in 1848,

Gibraltar has offered a rare glimpse
into the lives
of our prehistoric forebears.

A fragmented female skull
was discovered

and pretty quickly, people realised
there was just something a bit odd
about her.

She's got this very pronounced
brow bone

and a really elongated cranium.

But the problem was, she was unique,
she was unprecedented,

there was just nothing
to compare her to.

Then, just eight years later
in the Neander Valley in Germany,

a male skull with very
similar features was discovered

and that individual
was named a Neanderthal.

So by rights, Neanderthal man

should be called Gibraltar woman.

Almost 80 years after the discovery
of that first skull,

a pioneering young archaeologist
called Dorothy Garrod
returned to the Rock

to delve deeper
into that initial extraordinary find.

In 1926, Dorothy had excavated
an entire cave

and just a few hundred yards
from that original skull,
she discovered this,

a child who she called Abel,
after the son of Adam and Eve,

and suddenly a single find

had become the community.

Thanks to Dorothy,

tiny Gibraltar had become
one of the world's most significant
Neanderthal sites

and the prolific discoveries
made here since

are challenging the view that simple
Neanderthal cavemen and women

were wiped out 40,000 years ago

by us, Homo sapiens.

Instead, a new picture's emerging

of a thriving, much more complex
community of people,

so it's a real treat
to visit the archaeologists

whose ongoing discoveries
are transforming our understanding

of Neanderthal life.

So I'm just coming down
to the cave complex,

where there are genuinely incredible
Neanderthal finds.

They're excavating right now
and you're not normally allowed in,
but I've been invited.

Is that Clive?

Clive, hi! How are you?

I'm good!

There we go.
Ah, brilliant! What a treat!

Thank you. Come down.
Welcome to the Lost World.

The Lost World! I'm delighted
to be here. Thank you so much!

Professor Clive Finlayson is
Gibraltar's leading palaeontologist

and has spent decades
researching its Neanderthal past.

To get to his dig site,
it's 300 steps

down a remote eastern cliff face
to sea level.

Clive, I know we're wearing
the hard hats for the rocks,

but they're quite useful
for the seagulls today, as well!
They're very useful!

Not so friendly!
Is it nesting season?

It's nesting season, yes. OK.

Now, are you ready
for a first impression?

I've been hardly able to sleep!

Oh, my goodness!

These magnificent caves

are such a significant
Neanderthal home,

in 2016, they became
a UNESCO World Heritage site.

Clive, I have to say,

I didn't realise it was that size!
That is spectacular!

No, they are massive.

It's like a cathedral, isn't it?

Come and see it over here.
THEY LAUGH

I want to draw out the moment,
it's too exciting!

How you doing? Yeah, good!

Just...
SHE LAUGHS

..it is indeed quite a climb.

First of all, I cannot believe
this place. It is just extraordinary.

So, how long has there been
Neanderthals occupation
in these caves?

Maybe 90-odd thousand years,
that we know,

but my hunch is that it was
probably a lot longer than 100,000.

I mean,
that is an incredible amount of time!

We have to understand
that Neanderthals

probably lived on this planet longer
than we have done so far. Mm. Yes.

And that puts it in perspective.

So if we imagine, I don't know,
50 or 60,000 years ago,

what is the typical Neanderthal day?

Well, the idea that hunting
is all they did

is the stereotype
that we've grown up with,

but caves such as these
are giving us a new vision
of Neanderthal behaviour.

We're beginning to realise
how sophisticated it was.

They're hunting
particular kinds of birds,

particularly birds of prey
like the golden eagle,

for the feathers,

for the talons to use as necklaces,

so they would've been...

I can imagine a place like this

and a very busy Neanderthal family
doing all sorts of crafts
and skills.

The evidence Clive and his team
are unearthing

has huge implications.

Neanderthals weren't just surviving,

but leading rich inner lives.

I know that you've had
a really exciting recent find here.

Yeah. It's an engraving. It's an
engraving made with stone tools,

on the base of the Rock
in one of these caves,

and you can see it's a series
of lines criss-crossing,

so you can actually see the order
in which they were made because one
cuts across the other andso on,

but we did a very detailed study
of this

to try and understand, "Was this
a doodle? Was this a casual thing?"

The first thing you realise is that,
if you're trying to do this yourself
with a stone tool,

it's not an easy thing
to keep a straight line like that.

So the first thing that we realised
was,

whoever's done this
had done it before

and was probably quite skilled
at doing it.

It took us two hours
to replicate this.

That's a long time.

This particular line
took 60 strokes to do.

What do you think it might relate to?

Some people have said
it's a map of the cave,

it's a map of the constellations,
it's a tribal sign.

Somebody else has said,
"We all have it."

We do!

Is it art? I don't know, but it
certainly was done deliberately

and has no functional purpose to it

and it tells us a little bit about
the minds of these people

and how they were able to, like us,
abstract in some way and symbolise.

- This 3
- D print of the engraving

shows that far from being a doomed
prototype of us modern humans,

the Neanderthals were cultural,
spiritual people.

There's this very sort of
traditional idea about them,

that they're rather stupid
and aggressive,

and then we come along as
these kind of high-minded thinking
literally Homo sapiens,

but this shows how close we are,
you know, how much we share.

Absolutely. Most of us
who are of Eurasian origin

would be expected to have
Neanderthal DNA.

I carry Neanderthal genes.
With pride!

There is an argument that, you know,
if we carry those genes,

they never really went extinct.
Yeah.

But there it is. It's beautiful.
Beautiful. So enigmatic.

Would you like to hold it?
I would love to hold it.

Is that OK? There you go.

Look at that!

That, a Neanderthal woman or man
or child... Child.

..made those marks for a reason.

Clive, it's really...

It's special, isn't it?
..it is really special!

Gibraltar's caves

are the story of us.

They've transformed
our understanding of the Neanderthals

and also, by extension, of ourselves.

And the discoveries keep coming.

In 2019, it emerged Neanderthals

have even left their mark
in the sands here.

It's a story that's evolving.

Just recently, a faint footprint
was discovered close to the scene,

left by one of those Neanderthals.

It's really magical.

So they've left their imprint
in the sand,

the sun has baked it hard,
it's been covered over,
over tens of thousands of years,

and then just after it's revealed,
it starts to dissolve away.

So it's a ghostly reminder

of the people
who once called this place home.

The footprints were dated
to just 29,000 years ago,

over 10,000 years after we thought
Neanderthals had become extinct.

So Gibraltar is their last known
sanctuary.

The secret world of the Neanderthals
here

is a thing of wonder.

It's been genuinely humbling
to be allowed to get
just a glimpse of their lives

and also to be reminded that us,
as modern humans,

we don't have the monopoly
on imagination

and that we are as much a part
of them

as they are of us.

Gibraltar -

some have framed it
as the edge of Europe,

with the narrow Strait of Gibraltar
a frontier before North Africa.

But in truth,
the strait is less a gulf,

more a highway between continents.

That's Morocco,
just 13 miles away over there,

emerging from the mist.

And in 711, a man called
Tariq ibn Ziyad crossed these waters

to claim the Rock for his men

and for his relatively new faith
of Islam.

In fact, Gibraltar
is almost certainly named after him,

because originally this was called
Jabal al Tariq,

the Mountain of Tariq.

And that history-making moment

gave us my next wonder,

the Tower of Homage.

Built in the early 1300s
and almost 100 feet tall,

this treasure is the single largest
tower constructed

when much of Spain and Portugal
were Islamic.

The Tower of Homage sits at the top
of a huge fortification complex

that still dominates Gibraltar today,

the so-called Moorish Castle.

It's named after the Moors,
a label coined in medieval Europe.

But, frankly,
that is a ridiculous catch-all title

just invented by Europeans

to describe people
who were Arabs or Berbers

or simply from North Africa
and the Middle East.

In reality, a series
of Islamic dynasties and cultures

settled in Gibraltar over centuries.

From here, they conquered
and spread their influence

across the territory
they called Al-Andalus,

how the Spanish province of Andalusia
gets its name.

A beach-head into Iberia,

Gibraltar became known
as the key to Spain

and, to this day, its crest
bears the tower and a small key.

And it was the so-called Moors

who first really exploited the
strategic importance of the Rock.

This is a prize
they did not want to lose

and so they built
these massive fortification walls
all the way down to the sea

that were described as
"a halo around a crescent moon".

The Tower of Homage is scarred
by the legacy of medieval sieges,

as Christians tried to expel Muslims

whom they viewed as foreign invaders.

This formidable kasbah, or keep,

had just one entry point
and walls up to three metres thick.

I'm not a fan of small spaces,

but this is pretty unmissable.

This castle was besieged
again and again and again

and there is evidence of that
all around.

Between the 14th and 15th centuries,

the Tower of Homage was attacked
nine times.

Most sieges were Christian attempts
to unseat Gibraltar's Muslim rulers.

I don't know if you can see
that rock in the middle there,

that's basically a medieval missile.

It's a stone that's been catapulted
at these walls with huge, huge force,

so it's actually embedded inside.

I mean, these walls,
sometimes they are metres thick,

so you can just imagine the force

and how petrifying it would've been
to be trapped in here,

because by the time
you got the attackers this close,

this is absolutely
your last place of refuge.

Despite constant attack,

the intricate fortifications
from the tower down to the sea

pretty much held firm for centuries.

The town of Gibraltar is still shaped

by the contours of these walls
and ramparts.

And the formidable fortifications
allowed civil society to flourish.

I tell you what's really interesting,
is that one of the very earliest
inscriptions describing thisplace

says that it was dedicated
to the god of peace,

the god who pacifies.

And it's a reminder that even though
this is a military construction,

its story isn't all about conflict,

because for 700 years, this was
somewhere where women and men

lived rich, fulfilled lives.

The so-called Moors lived in
Gibraltar for over seven centuries,

so of course they've left clues
across the city.

So they were mending a drain
down here

and they've discovered
a bit of architecture
from the so-called Moorish period,

so that's a building at the time
that was controlled by Muslim forces.

Wherever you dig here,
there's something new!

And it's underground

that the full splendour
and sophistication
of Gibraltar's Islamic past

is most visible.

It is such a treat to be down here,

because I'm right underneath
the modern streets of Gibraltar

but this is a Basque complex
from the Islamic period.

These were originally
open to the sky,

so there'll have been kind of
star-shaped sunbeams
filtering through,

and all this was just for one man.

He's used, probably from the Roman
and Byzantine period,

old classical columns
to decorate his personal baths,

but then on top,

you've got that really distinctive
horse-shoe arch,

which was very popular
throughout the Islamic world.

And this is just the beginning.

Every time there's
an archaeological dig in Gibraltar,

a little fragment
of the Islamic period comes to light.

What you've got here is just
a very simple terracotta water jar,

but on it is written the word
"Allah".

This golden age wouldn't last.

By the 14th century,
the Christian kings of Northern Spain

entrusted a noble family,
the Guzmans,

to oust Gibraltar's Islamic rulers.

For close on a century, successive
generations of the Guzman Dynasty
attacked the Rock.

Gibraltar's heritage bears witness
to the struggle

that was played out.

So this was originally a mosque
or a private prayer room,

so it was a kind of sacred heart
of the castle.

But look at what's happened here.

So once the Christian forces
eventually do manage
to take Gibraltar,

they came here and gouged this out

as a burial for one of
their great military leaders
from the Guzman Dynasty.

It's a really conscious act
of desecration

and control.

For 700 years, a variety
of Islamic cultures have prospered

and made Gibraltar
the place it is today,

down to its very name.

But the Guzmans
and their Christian backers

continued to have the Tower of Homage
in their sights.

In August 1462,
this castle finally fell

and was eventually taken over
by the Guzman Dynasty.

Now, you'd like to think this is all
very neat and cut-and-dried

and the story of the triumph
of Christian invaders from the north,

but actually, the Guzmans
were originally from Morocco

and may well have been born
as Muslims.

It's a reminder that there are many
blurred lines in history

and it is rarely a simple story.

Gibraltar is somewhere
that is still home to Muslim
and Christian and Jewish communities

and where people from Africa, Asia
and Europe

are happily neighbours.

That's what the great Mediterranean
port cities all used to be like,

they were multi-ethnic,
multi-faith places,

so Gibraltar now

is somewhere you can feel

as though you are in two times
at once.

I'm in Gibraltar in search of
the unique sights and treasures

that have helped shape our history.

One thing conspicuous
by its presence here

is Britishness.

You see its influence everywhere.

Since 1704, Gibraltar has been under
British control

and is officially
a British Overseas Territory.

For centuries, it was an important
naval base in the Mediterranean.

In fact, Gibraltar was the launch pad

for the Royal Navy's
greatest victory.

My next treasure
is a unique bit of evidence

of a moment that saw the birth
of a national hero

as a result of a battle
that took place just a few miles
off the coast of Gibraltar,

the game-changing
Battle of Trafalgar.

In the early 19th century,

Napoleon Bonaparte controlled
most of continental Europe.

If he defeated
the British Royal Navy,

his French Empire
would also control the seas.

Under the command
of Admiral Horatio Nelson,

a British fleet
set sail from Gibraltar

to face a much larger enemy force
at the nearby Cape of Trafalgar.

On October the 21st, 1805,

Nelson charged into the enemy ships.

Within five hours,
they'd been decisively beaten,

and for the next century and a half,

the Royal Navy took control
of the region.

This was the beginning of
an unparalleled period of expansion
for the British Empire.

But my next treasure
isn't a cannon or a warship.

It's tucked away in Gibraltar's
sumptuous Garrison Library,

the so-called Trafalgar "scoop".

I do love this place!

This was built just a year before
the Battle of Trafalgar

and it might seem rather sleepy,
but it's the guardian
of historical treasures!

The library holds every copy of the
still-published Gibraltar Chronicle,

the second-oldest English-language
newspaper in the world,

only beaten by The Times of London.

And it's in this copy from 1805

that you can read the Gibraltar
Chronicle's greatest ever splash,

the Trafalgar scoop.

It describes a great victory

that came with a terrible loss.

What we've got here
is something remarkable.

So this is an edition
from three days after the battle

and it gives us
an eyewitness account.

It's really dynamic, you know,
you get the sense
that you're in the battle itself.

And we've got here a despatch
from Collingwood,
the Vice Admiral of the fleet.

But actually, what Collingwood
is describing isn't really
the battle itself,

it's the death of Nelson.

So we hear,
"Our loss has been great in Men,

"but what is irreparable, and the
cause of Universal Lamentation,

"is the death of the Noble Commander
in Chief,

"who died in the Arms of Victory."

And then underneath,

we discover his last words.

"Thank God I have outlived this day,

"and now I die content!"

So here, this is living proof

that news really is the first draft
of history

and that this is how heroic legends

are created.

This is the very first
printed account

of one of British history's
key moments -

victory at Trafalgar
and the death of Nelson.

In fact,
the Chronicle reported the news

a full two weeks
before The Times in London.

Gibraltar was shaping British history

just as much as it was being shaped
by British rule.

News of Nelson's death
spread like wildfire.

In Naples,
the poet Samuel Taylor Coleridge

said that he had tears on his cheeks

and that even the Italians
had sorrow in their countenance.

This was becoming a story
as fast as it became history.

Nelson's body
was brought to Gibraltar

before being sailed back to London

for an enormous state funeral.

Across Britain, streets and pubs
are named after Trafalgar.

Here was a foundational myth
for a seafaring nation -

Nelson giving his life

so Britannia could rule the waves.

In Gibraltar's Trafalgar Cemetery,

resting place
for some of the battle dead,

these values of heroism
are written in stone.

By dying as he did,
Nelson became an archetypal hero,

someone who gave their life
for others

and who perished fighting a
military adventure in foreign lands.

It's been the same through history.
You think of the Greek heroes

or even superheroes today
in comic culture.

Isn't it fascinating that,
as a species, we love the heroic?

We love the idea that, in bad times,

there is always going to be somebody
who will be our saviour?

Gibraltar,

British yet exotic,

was a resonant backdrop for
this kind of national myth-making.

But just as the Rock helped usher in

the British Empire's
lionised golden age,

it also witnessed its darkest hour.

Our next treasure lay hidden
and buried for over 50 years.

It's no exaggeration to say

that Gibraltar was pivotal
to the outcome of World War II.

Control those straits and you control
access to the Mediterranean
and to the Atlantic.

But from 1940,
the Rock was under attack,

bombarded from the air
and from the water.

This was a disaster
waiting to happen.

Nazi High Command made detailed plans
for the invasion of Gibraltar.

They knew it was key
to winning the North African
and Mediterranean fronts.

For the Allies, the Rock could not
fall into enemy hands.

And the extraordinary lengths
they were prepared to go to

are still drilled
into Gibraltar today.

The security of Gibraltar
was so critical,

the Rock itself was turned into
a vast military fortress.

So the civilian population
was evacuated,

they were shipped out to Morocco
or scattered throughout Europe

and 17,000 Allied troops
were brought here

to create an underground world.

So here there were hospitals
and ammunition stores and bakeries

in 30 miles' worth of tunnels.

And everywhere you go,

there are still fragments
and remnants of those hidden lives.

There are as many miles of tunnel
underneath the Rock

as there are roads above.

Most of these World War II-era
tunnels have been explored
and documented,

but my next treasure
was considered an urban myth

until just a few decades ago.

Hi. Smudge? Yes. Hi!

Bettany. How good to see you.
Is it OK to come through?
Please, come through.

It's the most incredible place!
It is.

It's just extraordinary!

Phil Smith, better known
by his army nickname Smudge,

is one of Gibraltar's leading
World War II experts.

You hear about secret tunnels,
but this really was secret. Yes.

It was classified as secret.

And he was in Gibraltar

when some potholers
made an extraordinary discovery.

We're just approaching now
the spot where they rediscovered
the secret chamber,

which is just here.

The caving group had been looking
for years for the secret chamber,

and in 1997
they just happened to stop here

and they felt wind coming through

from the corrugated iron sheets
that line the tunnel.

So they removed the corrugated iron
and instead of the limestone
Rock of Gibraltar,

they found a manmade concrete block
there.

What a discovery, because it's not
even on military maps, this, is it?

No! No, it's ultra secret.
Incredible. But we can get in?
Yes, we can.

Fantastic.

The cavers had discovered
a top-secret military installation

hidden within Gibraltar's
existing tunnels.

Here's the entrance.
You can see it's quite low,

so please be careful coming through.
I will. OK.

Oh! I just banged my head!
Are you OK? Yeah, I'm fine,
I just banged my head!

Ahh!

It was constructed in the event
of a German invasion of the Rock,

acting as a secret lookout post

from which Allied personnel
could radio enemy plane
and ship movements back to London.

Who'd have thought this was here!
Extraordinary place!
This is the main chamber.

It's been secret for so long,

the space is an eerie time capsule
going back to the height of the war.

I know locally this is known
as the Stay Behind Cave,

but who's being left behind here?

It was a team of naval ratings.

There was a team of six
all together - a commander,

two surgeons and three
communication specialists.

This would've been home for them
initially for a year,

but later on
they had enough supplies in here
to last out seven years.

So their mission is to stay here,
nobody knows about them,

and they're being left here

so they can be behind enemy lines
if they need to be. Basically.

They could spy on the Germans and
report back each night by radio

of any troop movements, ships,
planes.

It's a huge complex, isn't it?
So it carries on...

Yes, as we go through here,
we've got the toilets,

the radio room and then we've got
the viewing apertures

so they can see out to the east side
and also to the west.

Every eventuality
had been planned for

so these six men could spend months,
even years,

hidden the Stay Behind Cave.

If the Germans invaded,

they were instructed
to brick themselves in.

And those bricks are still here.

As a soldier,

can you imagine what it would've been
like for those men being in here?

I've got some idea.
When I was here with the military,

I did a three-day exercise
inside the Rock.

When I walked out into the sunlight
after three days,

I was totally dizzy
and could hardly stand up.

These guys potentially here
for seven years.

That would take a particular breed
of individual.

Well, incredible.
It's moving being here,

thinking of what they were prepared
to do

for the common good, for others.
Yeah.

I have the utmost respect
for those people.

Is it OK if I go and have a look?
Yes, please do. Thanks.

For those prepared to stay behind,

this would almost certainly
have been a suicide mission.

So this manmade cave
is a chilling monument

to Gibraltar's strategic importance.

These vantage points
would be manned day and night.

From one side,
you can see across to Morocco

and here you've got the sweep
of the whole Mediterranean,

so they were watching out
for enemy attack,

but particularly planes
landing at night.

Every night,
they'd send reports back to London.

And although it was meant to be
top secret,

the Stay Behind Cave
did fire up the imagination

of one of the world's
best-loved spy novelists.

I'm inside Gibraltar's
Stay Behind Cave,

a top-secret military installation

built to house a group
of British volunteers,

had the Nazis invaded the Rock.

For over half a century,
its existence was officially denied.

But newly unearthed documents
tell another story.

There's a report that's recently been
released from the Admiralty files

that is top secret, as it says on the
top, so it must've been classified,

and this gives
a really detailed description

of how this whole area was going
to be constructed and furnished.

We hear that it was going to be built
1,350 feet above sea level

and that there'd be a tank
for 10,000 gallons of water.

And that is here.
That's the tank there.

When it was first discovered here,
the tap was switched on

and it was still working.

Thankfully, Gibraltar wasn't invaded.

And although this treasure
was never put to use,

it's influenced our culture
in a rather surprising way.

Constructing the Stay Behind Cave
and, most importantly, finding those
volunteers to man it,

was a massive intelligence operation.

Between 1941 to 1942,

this underground command centre
was the workplace of one spook

who wouldn't stay in the shadows
for long.

Now, there's one thing
I can't not tell you
about the Stay Behind Cave story.

The young naval intelligence officer
responsible for recruiting those men

was called Ian Fleming.

That's the same Ian Fleming
who created James Bond.

Inside tunnels that span
the full width of the Rock,

I'm suddenly immersed
in Ian Fleming's wartime Gibraltar

and it feels very 007.

Ian Fleming definitely was familiar
with this place

and there is absolutely no doubt

that his military experience
here on Gibraltar

fired his imagination.

The character of M
is almost certainly based

on his superior officer,
Admiral Godfrey.

When he was serving here
on Gibraltar,

there was a naval officer
whose surname was Moneypenny.

And just think of those spy novels.

There's always a cave hideout
or a classified operation

and it seems that almost
every Bond villain

has a sinister mountain lair.

The Stay Behind Cave is a treasure
that, once again,

reminds us of the hold Gibraltar has
over our imaginations,

where a top-secret tunnel complex,
hidden for half a century,

still shapes our popular culture.

But even the caves that inspired
James Bond

can't elude my final treasure...

Uh-oh! Hello.

..the wonderful and mischievous
wildlife of Gibraltar

and spellbinding geology
of the Rock itself.

This landscape is so dramatic,

the Ancients thought it must've been
made by the uber hero Hercules,

who used his superhuman strength
to pull apart the continents
of Africa and Europe,

creating the Mediterranean
and the Atlantic.

The land that was left by the side
was known as the Pillars of Hercules,

as it still is today.

Ancient authors imagined Gibraltar
as the edge of the known world,

the last stop before the legendary
continents of Atlantis,

and the geology and climate
of the Rock certainly give it
a mythical quality.

Easterly winds, known as the levant,
smother Gibraltar in clouds

but also glide in migratory birds.

The Rock isn't just a landmark for us

but many animals.

Oh!

THEY LAUGH
I just saw my first one!

Fantastic! Look! There he goes.
Hey! Hello.

Tour guide Angie Watkins

is leading me to the
wondrous creatures of these seas,

first described by Romans.

Oh, he's coming towards us.
Swimming, yeah.

Slowly, slowly,
a little bit of patience. Oh, yes.

So these are the striped dolphins
we've got here. OK.

Three dolphin species
inhabit the waters between Gibraltar
and the Atlantic.

In the high season,
we're expecting to see

three to 5,000 dolphins.

In the area of the bay
and the Strait of Gibraltar,

this area, we have very deep,
very clean water,

so there's a lot of fish
for these guys to feed on.

They'll also come here
to give birth to the calves.

Yes. They'll keep the calves here
while they're very young,

using this area
as a training ground.

Oi!
SHE LAUGHS

Yes!

That is ridiculously cool!

That is just showing off, frankly.

It's always magical

when you see them because,

I don't know, just the fact that
you're sharing the water
with these beautiful creatures.

And I love the fact
that the Ancients always said

that they were bringing messages
from the gods.

It was the god of the sea, Poseidon,
kind of giving you his blessing.

So it's a very calming feeling
knowing that you're up close to one.

It seems that Poseidon
might be on my side

because one of his
colourful messengers

heads straight for our boat.

Oh, loads of them, there!

He crash-landed on the boat,
I think!

So this flying fish just came in
and I think one's landed on...

Oh, poor thing. There, look.
We're going to put him back.

Put him back.

Oh, he's gone.

Bless him. He swam on. Wow!

So they just came hurtling
across the boat.

That is incredible to see.
So they were flying fish,

again, the Ancients talk about them
as being these kind of magical
creatures in this part of the world,

and one landed on the boat.
That's extraordinary. Extraordinary.

What a beautiful, beautiful,
beautiful thing it was.

You do really get a sense

from that extraordinary rock
jutting out of the landscape

why this place has created
this kind of microclimate

and a microecology to go with it.

If the waters around Gibraltar
preoccupied the Ancients,

the vast network of caves
within the rock

became natural wonders
in more recent history.

For hundreds of thrill-seeking
naval officers and sailors
in the 19th century,

these caverns promised
boys' own glory.

This is where you came
when you wanted to be
just a bit more adventurous.

I've been allowed special access
into Leonora's Cave,

deep inside the porous limestone,

to see how the British presence has
literally left its mark on the Rock.

If you made it this far down,

there was even a sign post.

This is really tight!

Oh, this is so awesome in here!

Far from the prying eyes
of their superiors,

Royal Navy sailors
found Leonora's Cave ideal

for settling personal disputes.

It came to have a reputation
for being the best place to come
to have an illegal duel.

But almost certainly,
most of the visitors down here

were just bored naval officers

and military personnel
or kind of adventure junkies,

and, actually,
if you start to look at the walls,

you can see they've physically
left their mark here.

So, erm, the guys here have obviously
come as a sort of lads' trip,

so you've got Captain B Walker
up at the top,

RES Ray,

and they're all
from the Royal Engineers

and they came here in 1897

and they've scored the walls
to heroically prove

that they made it down here together.

As the 19th century wore on,

Gibraltar's appeal grew beyond
the British military garrison.

Early tourists also flocked to the
extraordinary Saint Michael's Cave,

treating it like
a subterranean pleasure garden.

Word quickly got out

that there were all kinds of
exotic experiences to be had here

and Gibraltar became a destination
for a trip of a lifetime.

You can see here there are parties
held here in Saint Michael's Caves,

with these fantastic Victorian women
in their crinolines
and guys in top hats.

The guests describe these stalactites

as looking like
the trunks of palm trees

and the lighting here in the cave
like a halo of glittering gems.

But Gibraltar's most exotic
and recognisable natural wonder

hadn't been carved into the Rock
over millions of years.

It's made its home on the very top
of the monolith,

a cheeky colony of monkeys.

The Barbary macaque.

Now, there are a lot of theories
as to how the macaques got here.

Some people think they've been in
this region for five million years,

some people think they came over
with the Moorish occupation,

others think that the Brits brought
them here for hunting practice.

But however they arrived,

the macaques have become a mascot
of Gibraltar.

I'm meeting Gibraltar's resident vet,
Mark Pizarro,

whose team monitors Europe's
only wild monkey population.

There are lots of theories about
how the macaques ended up here.

What do you think?

Personally, I believe it's been
mainly a British thing.

I'm sure the Moors had them
when they first came,

but I doubt very much whether
it's the same monkeys from that
generation which are here now.

I believe the British
would've probably introduced them

and then they've just become
wild here.

What is it about the environment here
that suits them so well?

It's a perfect environment.
There's a lot of natural foraging,

we have a lot of trees
which they can feed off.

There's cliff faces where they sleep
at night, so they're very protected,

and there isn't any major
natural predator.

So therefore, the monkeys here
will survive till
they're 30-odd years of age.

Legend states that as long as
the macaques continue to thrive,

the Rock will remain
in British hands.

This myth is taken dead seriously.

During the Second World War,
with the monkey population dwindling,

Churchill himself got involved.

It's incredible that it mattered
so much to Churchill

that he sent a troop ship over
to Morocco to bring them back.

But I guess it was really important
for morale at that time.

Oh, yeah. I mean, it's synonymous
with Gibraltar, isn't it?

Therefore, you come to Gibraltar,
you've got to see the macaques.

And I do love this idea that
as long as the macaques are here,

there'll be a British connection.

Hopefully that'll be the case
for many millennia to come!

Enchanting, tenacious,

these remarkable animals

are a fitting mascot for Gibraltar.

The ideal companions for a place
with such a distinctive story.

That's why the ecology of the Rock
is a treasure.

Gibraltar might only be
two miles across

but it's mapped the story
of humanity,

from Neanderthals homemaking, through
to the conflicts of the 20th century.

It is packed with hard history
and culture,

but it's also a reminder of the power
of the human imagination

to shape both our pasts
and our future.

Subtitles by Red Bee Media