All language subtitles for 100.Foot.Wave.S01E06.WEBRip.x264-ION10

SPEAKER: You can look back
into history,

and you can interview
a lot of people,

and they're gonna tell you
about this notion

of the 100-foot wave.
The biggest waves

in the world are there
in Nazaré.

It's really become one
of the most famous surf spots

in the world right now.

♪ (DRAMATIC MUSIC PLAYS) ♪

SPEAKER 2: WSL Tow challenge
has been watched

all around the world.

SPEAKER 3: Without my family
around, a lot of times I think,

"Oh, I could do the contest,
but I wasn't ready."

SPEAKER 4:
You're gonna see thousands
and thousands of people

just covering the cliffs.

Every important big wave surfer,
everyone's there.

ANNOUNCER: We are expecting
some epic performances.

The world's best big wave
surfers all pushing the limits.

SPEAKER 5: Kai is excited,
been training for it all year.

SPEAKER 6: Kai Lenny,

he's just
a once-in-a-generation freak.

SPEAKER 7: Everyone wants
the same thing,

that wave that's gonna make
your career

and change your life.

[TV static drones]

[bright tone]

[dramatic string music]

- Good morning and welcome
to Nazaré in Portugal.

The World Surf League's
Big Wave Tour

now brings its focus to
the shores of Western Europe.

Where's the limit?
We're gonna find out.

- The World Surf League

runs surfing competitions
all around the world.

- You couldn't plan it
any better.

- And most of those events
are held in waves

that'll be from 2 feet
to 6 feet.

The offshoot of it
is the Big Wave Tour

where the waves need to be

at least 35 feet on the face
and preferably bigger.

- A humungous wave pulling
into a big barrel!

- Nazaré has been
a incredible resource

for running big wave events

because there are
so many big waves.

We ran three editions
of the Nazaré challenge

as a paddle event,
and it was radical.

- I can remember going there

for the Nazaré challenge
paddle-in surfing competition,

and I remember seeing
these giant waves and going,

"How did I get myself
into this mess?"

The night before
the competition,

I was laying in my bed going,

"I really hope
I don't die tomorrow."

[crowd cheering]

- Oh!
Oh, wow.

♪ ♪

- The reality of it is
we had too many days

where the waves were just
too big to paddle.

- Oh, no.
- Oh!

- Will go over the handlebars,
so to speak,

and take a wipeout.

- Oh, my gosh!

- Getting absolutely
steamrolled!

- World champions were just
terrified of it

and were just getting
destroyed.

After that, we just went,

"Look, you know,
maybe tow surfing

"is the right format

for this spot
because it's never too big."

- You know, I ended up
surviving the event,

but I was like,

"I'm okay without ever
coming here."

Pretty much all my friends
from Hawaii were like,

"We're not coming back here
ever again."

And it's odd
because over the years,

it's completely changed,
and now I long to go

to a place like Nazaré.

I love Nazaré.

It's one of my favorite
big waves in the world

'cause it's such a challenge,

and I've just decided
to accept that challenge.

[soft music]

- Check out these monster
100-foot waves

off of Portugal.

- The biggest wave
ever surfed,

as high as 100 feet.

- To put that in perspective,

that is taller than
an eight-story building.

- Surfers are always looking
for the next great thing.

- It often breaks those brave
or crazy board riders.

- Severe wipeouts and waves
of mind-boggling heights.

- What happens here happens
nowhere else in the world.

- Biggest wave ever surfed.
- The biggest wave ever--

- Will be the biggest wave--
- The biggest wave--

- The 100-foot wave.

♪ ♪

♪ ♪

- The Nazaré Tow Surfing
Challenge really was

the first event
of its kind ever,

a performance oriented,
purely tow surfing,

competitive event
at this arena

where thousands
of people were watching.

- Welcome back to live action

from the Nazaré
Tow Surf Challenge.

Prize out here today,
best ride.

We are underway,

so heat one will be
one hour long.

- Our goal with the format

for the Nazaré
Tow Surfing Challenge was

to have as much action going on
as possible

without jet skis crashing
into each other

and too much going on

where you lose track
of the surfers.

So we had a priority system

that had never been
used before

where we had a big screen up
on the side of the lighthouse

and a judge that would say,

"Hey, once you caught a wave,

basically, you go to the end
of the line."

- Black is clear.

- Here we go, Andrew Cotton,

Team Great Britain,
big fade.

He did ride that wave
really well.

He put himself
in a great position.

- That was Lucas Chianca,

massive wedge of a peak.

Now look at this thing.

That's one of
the biggest waves we've seen.

Tom Butler that was.

- That was a very,
very tall one.

- Right now Kai Lenny
got involved.

What you expect from him,
he's gonna do stuff like that,

complete spin, 360 degrees,
lands with control,

and then drops back in
and loses control.

Oh, and what a tumble!

Wow, that was crazy stuff.

- There was thousands
and thousands of people.

That was pretty astonishing

just to see that amount
of people.

I felt like a gladiator
in Thunderdome.

- We're over here
to see Andrew surf

for the first time.

Andrew Cotton, that is.

- We've seen him

scores of times
on videos and TV

but never actually been here,
so it's amazing to see it.

- We gotta manifest
one really good wave

for Cotty
and one really good wave

for Tom in this next seed.

I'm gonna go up there and study
so that I can call the wave.

First peak, first peak.

- Here we go, doubles.

- Nice, yeah, here we go.

We got Cotty on the inside.

[soft dramatic music]

Oh, and they both peak off,
so that's a share.

[soft music]

- That is Justine Dupont,
and that is a massive wave.

- She has her wings out,
stabilizing herself.

♪ ♪

- She is next-level.

I could see her winning
actually,

beating all the guys.

I would love that.

♪ ♪

- She kicks out,
and she's happy,

as well she should be.

- Justine Dupont, you just
surfed your half hour heat.

How was it out there?
- I was so lucky.

I had a really nice wave
at the beginning of the heat,

so then we was pretty confident
and just having fun.

[speaking French]

- Tell us
about the conditions today.

Is this everything you'd hoped
for for the event to run?

- Yeah, it's really good.

It's not that much wind,

so we are not used
to have this condition,

like, that perfect.

- Right now, I'd like
to be in the water, yeah,

'cause it's so smooth.

This is the kind of day
that I live for.

- Looks like Maya Gabeira.
- Wow!

- And this wave's got a wall
on it.

This is the kind
of wave you want

if you can get around that.

This is commitment right here.

Uh-oh.

- Well, now she's gonna deal
with some white water here.

- The noise, the power
that exploded all around me.

I mean, I don't know how
I would have reacted

on a free surf,
but because I was competing,

I saw that bomb,
I didn't even think about it.

I went all the way
to the bottom,

and then I saw that there was
no way I was gonna be able

to turn at that point.

I just held on.

- An explosion of white water
gets the better of Maya.

- I got really lucky
because I just held enough

that I was thrown forward
and not down.

- And now we get
to see Sebastian

and his ability to get in.

And there's the pickup
for Maya, all good.

- I just got so close
to something so scary

that I must say that it took
a lot of my confidence away.

I was one athlete
until that point,

and then I became
another athlete

for the other part
of the competition

where I was like, "Okay,

"I don't want play that
close to fire, you know?

"Like, I want to surf well,

but, like, this is not worth,
you know, my life."

- Not this one
but the next one.

Where are you guys?

- He just rode the wave,
I think.

- There's Cotty!
He's still riding.

- Spotting is really tough,
yeah, really tough.

I'm just trying
to study the wave,

so I could choose better,
but it's so challenging

to pick the right wave.

I got a lot of sympathy
for the spotters.

- Riding up the big one!

- Can you tell me where red is?
Where's red?

- I know he found it
more difficult

than what he envisioned,

and I think that's probably
because he's used

to being out in the sea.

When you're in the water,
you're more focused

on just what's around you,
not every aspect of it.

- Red's first priority now,
yeah?

You guys have priority.
Wait for the bomb.

There's--looks like
a bomb coming.

Looks like a set coming.

Tell Cotty
I'll let you guys know

if it's a good right.

The rights are hollow
and amazing.

If it's a good right,
tell him to go right.

[tense music]

You guys are priority.
This next wave is really good.

This next wave right here.

- I was surfing,

and Garrett called a wave
on the radio.

It was a left-hander
and a right-hander.

- It was a perfect peak.
You could've gone either way.

- We were down at, like,
fifth priority at this point.

And we saw
the other team going,

and we had to wait to see
what they did first.

- I was just looking left.

I didn't see what was going on
behind me

or over my shoulder
on the right.

- When we figured out
that they were going left,

"Oh, scoop me on the right."

- Oh.
- Red, 1.5 left.

- Left, left, left, left.
- And blue.

Blue going right.
- Left, left, left, left.

Left, left, left.
- Oh, my God, that's a...

[crowd cheering]
Oh, my God!

[soft orchestral music]

- That was Kai?

♪ ♪

- Kai just had this wave
that just was that wave

that everyone draws
during their algebra class.

It was this perfect
70-foot barrel.

♪ ♪

- Kai Lenny,
just in from last heat,

and, mate, looked like
you're having fun out there.

- Yeah, it's super fun.

Man, it's super sick
to just be here right now.

Both Lucas and I want
to ride, like, an 80-footer

if one eventually comes in.

- Well, one heat to go.

You seem to be
in the nominations so far.

Good luck with the rest
of the event.

- Thank you.

[crowd cheering]

- There's tons of waves.
Don't worry.

There's tons of waves.
Let everybody go.

- We can hear when you talk,

but all we hear is "krrrr"
when you're not talking.

- I think he knew that he was
losing it towards the end,

you know, like "Ahh!"

Like, 'cause it was, like, all
over the shot and that like.

- Left inside, go, go, go, go.

Way over, way over!
This next wave is the wave.

That's where you don't want
to be.

Second, third peak.
[exhales]

- "Oh, over here, over there!
Left, right, left."

You know, that's, like,
classic Garrett.

- How much time?

- Time is 2 minutes 45.

- Two minutes, guys.
Let's get you a nugget.

There is a big set coming.
There is a big set coming.

Get on the rope.
Get on the rope.

Get on the rope.

This is the wave.
This is the magic wave.

Go for this wave.

[horn blaring]

- Fuck!
- What?

- Fuck!

- Towards the end
of that final heat,

I was towing Cotty
into a wave,

and then, yeah, it kind of came
across the radio like,

"Ski's down, ski's down."

♪ ♪

- Is that Hugo?

- Whoa!
- Oh, my God.

- We lost a ski.
We lost a ski.

There he is, inside!

- Alex and Hugo were
on the inside.

They didn't have
backup safety.

They were going back out,

and there was this white water
and then a sideways wave,

and they flew
over the sideways wave,

landed sideways,
hit the ski really hard,

and I think Alex knocked out
on impact.

And then both of them
were in the water,

and Hugo's there trying
to get back on the ski.

- And that ski is gonna
go over now.

- Oh-ho-ho!
- That we were just told...

- Literally
end of the day.

Anything can happen.

- And they're still underwater,
not popping up.

And then everybody realized
this piece of foam

that they saw floating
wasn't just a piece of foam

or a life jacket.
It was Alex.

There he is, there he is.

- Oh, it's a body.
- Oh, shoot.

[indistinct chatter]

- [speaking Portuguese]

- It's the second time
that we ever

really see a body
floating out there.

First time was mine.
Now it's the second.

[indistinct yelling]

♪ ♪

[tense music]

- There was no real info.

It was just--no one really
knew what happened.

It wasn't until I was
on social media,

saw the video, and then
it was just like, "Oh, shit."

- Extraordinary pictures
that have come in

from Nazaré in Portugal.

Alex Botelho got wiped out
while on a jet ski.

- Botelho was unconscious

when lifeguards pulled him
from the water.

♪ ♪

- It looked like he broke
his back there,

and then, boom,
wave washes him,

like the heaviest thing,
and then he's just out.

He's just out,
and, like, there's no skis.

- So you saw the whole--
- Well, I--dude, it was live.

- Oh.
- It was live.

But yeah, heavy.

♪ ♪

- It's hard.

I surfed the contest
really expecting my body,

if eventually,
it floated unconscious,

to be grabbed and taken
to the beach very quickly.

And to see that, you know,
it didn't go that way

with a friend of ours,
you know, it's just...

I don't know, it's scary.

♪ ♪

- A lot of preparation went
into having a safety plan,

but in the end,

Alex Botelho was not
riding a wave.

He was just getting a lift
back out with his partner,

and the jet ski crashed.

If you attended
all the safety meetings,

that wasn't something
that everyone was looking for.

- Luckily, Alemao followed
Hugo, or Alex wouldn't be here.

He was watching for other teams
at the same time,

but he made sure
that he went in and got Alex.

Alemao's the real hero.

- It definitely
makes me think,

"Is it all worth it,
this big wave riding?"

Then when you're out
in the water,

everything changes.

You're like a kid
in a candy store.

[car horn honks]

Usually.

- How was today, Cotty?

- Yeah, it was all right.

Couple big waves,

but sort of a bit
of a weird one,

ending like it did.

Hopefully, he's all right.

Public speaking is one
of my biggest fears.

And now I do it for a job,
so...

[laughs]

That's way worse
than surfing 80-foot waves.

- Andrew, Tom, thank you
very much for doing this.

First of all, tell us what
conditions have been like

for big wave surfing there
over the last couple of days.

- Today the swell
sort of peaked

probably at like 60 feet maybe?

And it was
the Nazaré Tow Challenge,

the WSL Nazaré Tow Challenge.

Yeah, it's been a great day.

- And how are you getting on
in the competition?

- We actually--we don't
know yet.

We surfed all day today,

and we find out tonight
at 7:00.

There's an award ceremony
at the lighthouse.

- I hate to remind you,
Andrew,

of what happened there
a few years ago

when you had
a spectacular wipeout--

- Never forget this part.

- Nearly ended your career.

How are things progressing
from then on?

- Yeah, you know, yeah,
the wipeout a couple years ago,

you know, obviously,
it was traumatic,

but it was just
an injury and...

Whenever I do an interview,

it's all
about the broken back.

It's all about the injury.

It's like, shit,
I've surfed so many good waves,

you know, like...

and all they want
to talk about is injury,

which is kind of sad,
isn't it?

Like,

you know, no one really cares
about the ones you make.

They want to see about
the ones you don't, you know?

- How many times have you been
asked about your--

- Wipeout, it's just like,
oh, my God.

- All right, mate, nice job.
- See you later.

- I'm so glad you guys are
all right.

Thanks for looking after Tom
for me.

- We did good.
We did get some good waves.

- Yeah, we got some good ones.
Nice one, mate.

- [unintelligible]
find a shirt, eh?

- You've got one
in that camper van.

- I have, yeah.
[laughter]

- See you in a little bit!
- See you in a bit!

- Hi, mate.
- Hi.

- Sorry I wasn't that good
up there.

It's so hard.

- Yeah, you're fine.

It's good.
It was good.

It's hard though, eh?
- It's so gnarly.

- Hard, eh?

Did anyone get any--what
was the...

- Your last wave was probably
a contender.

Nobody shot it.
- What?

- They were all shooting
the...Alex.

- Nobody shot the last wave?
- No.

- From what they were doing,
your wave should be top five,

the last wave.

- Last wave.

- Yeah, but they
couldn't find it.

- That's just like--
it doesn't matter, does it?

Wow.

- And then--
- All right, I'm gonna go.

- Okay, good surfing.

- Basically, the rules
of the biggest wave

within an event really depend
on the video

and photographic evidence.

Andrew Cotton caught
an amazing wave

the last minute or two
of the challenge,

and tragically,
it was not captured.

- I remember them saying, like,
they counted Cotty's wave

in the score and that he caught
it before the horn blast.

[horn blares]

But everything was happening
on the inside

with Alex and Hugo,

and the attention
obviously went to that.

- How this can happen

when you have, like,
eight, ten cameras?

They were pointing
all the cameras

to the accident to the point
they lost Cotty's wave,

which was one of the biggest
on that day.

- I looked up, and I saw it,
and it was a stunner,

but unfortunately,
not only everyone working

on the event but everyone,
apparently,

who had a camera
who was attending the event

looked the other way.

So it was not up
for consideration

in the event, and nor was it up
for consideration

for the biggest wave
of the year.

Until we can have a camera

over every square centimeter
of the Earth,

a few things are gonna
go missing.

[light music plays
over speakers]

♪ ♪

- Hello.
- Hey, Mom.

- How are you my darling?
Well done.

You did so well.

- You didn't even know
which one I was.

But I think I managed
to see sometimes.

No, it's great.

I'm just so glad
that I was able to see.

It was brilliant.

- Yes, we were fortunate
to be still out there watching

on the final wave.

And it really,
really was a big wave,

but I don't think an awful lot
of people did see it, though.

- All right, my darling.

Love you lots.
We'll see you in a bit, okay?

Oh, it's just so good
to see you.

It's been a really
exciting day.

I loved it.

See you in a bit.
- See you later.

[soft music]

- Cotty loves
surfing big waves.

It's all he wants to do.

He is hungry, super hungry.

♪ ♪

- I've surfed a few big waves

but never really...

you know, never really...

never really won anything
or really had that moment.

[cheers and applause]

- Oh, we got Seb.
You're gonna come up.

Thank you, Seb,
or you want to say something?

- I just came
from the hospital.

Alex has a problem
with his lung,

a lot of water in there,
but he will push through.

And Hugo will also be kept
there overnight

but probably also be fine.

And he asked me
to pass a message,

which is that he really enjoyed
the day with all of us.

He's stoked
that everyone charged,

and he's happy to come back
and see every one of us.

That's the message.

[cheers and applause]

- Beautiful stuff.

So to the--unique
to this event,

we have the surfers voting
on all of the awards tonight.

It is something where
you can't blame the judging

because you are all the judges
as athletes.

I'm now gonna introduce
the highlights of today,

so please pay attention
to this very closely,

so you guys can
get your votes in.

♪ ♪

- The idea was we'd watch
everyone's rides back,

and then we'd all judge 'em.

- Surfing is more of an art
than a sport and hard to judge

in a lot of ways.

It was just
about the gut feeling.

As a surfer participating
in the event,

what spoke to you?

- Well, there you go,
round of applause

for an incredible day
of surfing right there.

We'll call up each team,

so when you hear your name,
please come up here

and cast your vote.

Team Brazil.

Rodrigo Koxa and Pedro Scooby,
please come on up.

Big round of applause
for Team Brazil.

♪ ♪

- I like the way the contest
was organized,

but I don't like compete,
you know?

For me, big waves,

it's about you and God,
you know?

- Kai Lenny and Lucas Chianca,
come on up please.

- But of course, it's amazing
for the big wave community,

and I respect a lot.

- Our tabulator here
working quickly.

And first award, women's wave
of the day over here,

and it will go
to Justine Dupont!

[cheers and applause]

- Do you recall the wave
of the day?

- Yeah,
one was kind of special.

- Right on.
Thank you very much, Justine.

Which now brings us
to the men's wave of the day.

I think that this one,
the wave did a lot of the work,

but the teamwork got the wave.

So congratulations to Kai Lenny
for the wave of the day.

[cheers and applause]

Kai, I want to ask you first.

That wave was pretty special.

You ended up splitting
the peak with somebody

on that one, right?

- I think it was Team Britain
that was going on the left,

and I yelled at Lucas,
I'm like, "Let's go right!"

And he's like,
"Right, really?"

'Cause it was gonna go
straight to the cliff.

And he just whipped me up it,

and the wave was so smooth,

I didn't know how big it was
behind me.

- If you were to ask any surfer
to draw the perfect wave,

it would probably be
something like that, you know?

Wouldn't you agree?
- Yeah.

- To be honest, I remember
seeing Kai on the right,

and I don't even remember
seeing what happened

on the left.

That was how good
the right was.

- Yeah.

- Congratulations, you two.

- Hindsight is 20/20,
and I've been on the other side

of the stick as well where,
you know,

you could've gone on the wave
of the day.

I think it happens
to every big wave surfer

where you shoulda, coulda,
"Why didn't I?"

But you just have
to go back out there,

and hope you get another
opportunity at it.

- Well, you might stay up
on the stage

because the next one,
you guys are the best team.

All right, so you won
the best team as well.

[cheers and applause]

One more round of applause
for all the competitors.

- Don't think
there's any video,

but there's a still,

which is just nice, you know?

But there'll be bigger waves
tomorrow,

bigger waves Monday.

It's just another...
another wave.

- Oh, I gotta go.
- All right.

- All right.

- See you in a bit.
- I'll see you in the morning.

- No, he's gone.
He's in there.

- I should've done
the contest.

There's a small percentage
of me that wanted to.

The teams are gonna get
more organized.

They're gonna figure out
how to do better.

And it's gonna get harder.

It's just like
the paddle contest.

I should've done
the first year,

but I had a broken arm.

Now this one,
I got a broken foot.

There's some weird little juju
going on.

I don't know what's wrong.

Gotta figure out what
I'm doing wrong,

or maybe I'm not doing
anything wrong.

I don't know.

- What would have you done,
though, that no one else...

- I would've got barreled.

Plain and simple,
I would've got barreled.

I would have found
the right barrel,

and I would've got blown out
of a monster barrel,

and that's what would've
won the whole thing.

At 52, that would have been
pretty inspiring.

- If it would have been
perfect conditions,

Garrett would have
surfed the contest.

I think he was just
feeling fear,

fear of loss
or fear of another injury.

- Garrett ten years ago
was, like,

he wanted every wave
under the sun, you know, like,

he was hungry,

but now a growing fear
of wipeouts,

the impact, the dangers.

Garrett's had a lot.

He's had more than most,
isn't he?

He's had a lot of beatings.

- Oh, my God.

Oh!

- The last four years
of injuries,

he hasn't surfed as much,
you know?

- Before I got hurt,

I really enjoyed
being underwater,

enjoyed getting pounded,
enjoyed every moment,

and Mavericks smacked me down.

The pain was so severe
for so long

that it changed my outlook
a bit.

♪ ♪

And then in G-Land,
during that wipeout,

it was spooky getting pounded

and thinking about my family
while I'm underwater,

not being there for them.

Definitely weighs
on you a bit.

- Big wave surfing is one
of the most challenging sports

one can undertake

because no matter
how good you really are,

you're going
to reach a situation

that'll nearly send you
into oblivion.

- The fear that comes
with big wave surfing

is obviously fear
for your life.

You can't go out into the sea
and not be scared.

- Fear is
an ever-present emotion,

yet you have to go out
into certain conditions.

You have obligations
to yourself,

to your own drive.

- Whenever you let go of
the tow rope to catch a wave,

you don't know
what's coming next.

You have no control
over these elements.

The only control you've got
is over yourself.

There's a nervous energy
there.

But then there's a moment
in time it just disappears.

A deathly calm comes over you,

and the fear completely drains.

[light music]

- We know it's a sense
of flying.

It's like being a bird.

We know
that it's all-consuming,

like, you're not thinking
about anything else.

- You're completely absorbed
in the moment.

Time goes slow, you know?

A second probably equates
to more like ten seconds.

- You become part of something
that is greater than you,

part of nature,
part of the universe.

- It's the closest
I've ever felt to euphoria.

I feel like I'm Icarus,

and I'm getting so close
to the sun,

but my wax wings haven't
melted just yet.

- They're putting their life
on the line

every day when they go there.

Every wave can be
their last wave.

It's what makes them
feel alive.

- It is magical, and I think,

once you get a connection
with the ocean,

I think it can be
with you forever.

That feeling is the feeling
that I think

you end up chasing
for your whole life.

I've been surfing now
for 33 years,

and I'm still chasing
that same feeling.

- And that's why we pursue it.

That's why we do it
our whole life.

That's why we fly
around the world

because there's no one alive
that when riding a wave,

wouldn't experience
that feeling

and not want to go back out

and spend their whole life
doing it.

♪ ♪

- We were trying to do this
remote control jet ski set up,

and we're attempting
to capture the wave

from a bunch
of different angles.

And then in the midst
of all that,

Garrett I think decided
to catch a wave

all of a sudden.

- We're looking up,
and this perfect,

smooth right's up at third,
fourth peak.

I'm like, that's like
the dream.

It's just so fun.

I'm thinking, okay,
I'm gonna go take Cotty

on a couple waves,
and then he's like,

"Mate, you want one?"

- I'm like, "Uh, okay."

- It's been four years
since, you know, like,

he had a really big wave.

- Hee-hee-hee-hee.

Yeah, boy!

♪ ♪

Just all follow our hearts,
everything will go great.

I get on the rope,
and there's the set.

♪ ♪

- Whoo!

- There's Garrett.
- Garrett!

- Garrett.
- Whoo!

- Fear is something we choose.

♪ ♪

Fear is when we're not
in the moment.

♪ ♪

When we choose to think
about the past

or think about the future--
two things that don't exist.

♪ ♪

For the big waves,

the only thing
that exists is right now.

♪ ♪

- He got a bomb wave,
but then it was disaster.

♪ ♪

He got pounded.

♪ ♪

He went over the fall.

♪ ♪

And then he got washed up
on the beach.

Saw him on the beach
on his knees there,

and I thought he was hurt.

He just got
a horrific wipeout.

He got two big waves
on the head,

held under for 35, 40 seconds,

and he came back smiling.

♪ ♪

[applause]

- Five years I don't
get pounded, so whoo!

Feels so good!

- You did a good job.

♪ ♪

- I've been letting fear
consume me.

I wasn't sure if I enjoyed
being underwater anymore.

I really enjoyed it.

Yeah, when I saw that big
white water coming at me,

I wasn't afraid, and then
when I went over the falls,

and the next one,
I wasn't afraid,

so it was, like,
back to normal, pretty cool.

It was so good that
that happened.

It was a sense of relief.

- The fear?

As of now, I feel the fear
has disappeared.

Yee-haw!

GMAC is back!

Look at how good it is
up there.

Oh, I might have
to go back out.

♪ ♪

- I think the spark is back.
Garrett's back.

And he's gonna ride
a 100-foot wave here.

♪ ♪

- If the 100-foot day comes,
and the conditions are right,

I'll definitely go out there
and ride it.

There's no doubt about that.

♪ ♪

Obrigado, everybody!

♪ ♪

Welcome to Nazaré.

Never a dull moment.
[laughs]

- Breaking news, stay at home.

That is the order tonight
from four state governors.

- Governor David Ige
announcing

a mandatory two-week
quarantine

for all travelers arriving
in Hawaii

beginning Thursday,
March 26th...

- My foot's all better.

No pain at all.

Gotta keep you outside, okay?

Outside, outside.

- This is probably the longest
we've ever been home.

- Cilantro...

what's this one?

- Sage.
- Sage.

- Whoa.
- Yeah.

- Sometimes it's great,
and other times,

it's not great.
[laughs]

- Being trapped with my family
has been interesting.

It's been beautiful
just surfing regular waves

and fun waves,
and just slowing down enough,

and remembering to enjoy it.

Garrett's also
really connecting

with what's really important
to himself and his life.

- I've actually been
just relaxing

with the family.

Definitely start
appreciating everything

out of the water more,

not having to base everything
on the next ride

and needing that fix,
that rush.

The best time of my life
right now, the best time.

- Me come.

- You're gonna go
on the jet ski?

- Yeah.
- You want to go with Barrel?

- Yes, Daddy.

- Kind of good to be home,
really.

I can't remember the last time
I was at home for this long.

The work thing is eliminated.

It's been good to enjoy time
with the kids.

But at the same time,

as soon as Portugal's open
for surfing again,

I wanna get back down there.

It's what I've gotta be doing,
really.

♪ ♪

- I actually miss Nazaré
very much right now.

It's the only thing I'm missing
from this quarantine

'cause we're supposed
to be there.

As soon as we can go back,
we're going back.

- I'll probably be more
prepared than I've ever been.

Definitely the best shape
I've been in

since I got injured.

Tighten those abs!

My body's strong enough.

My ligaments, my tendons,
my muscles are all solid.

Shoulder and foot are ready.

- He's looking good
and feeling good,

and he was out there
surfing today,

and he got some waves.

♪ ♪

- Couldn't get off the bottom,

and the board was going
like that,

and then I hit the bottom
really hard,

and then I kicked
off the bottom

like Superman.

- Training for next season,
it's continuous, you know.

Like, being ready physically,
mentally.

I think Garrett's been
a really positive role model,

and to surf big waves
into your 50s,

that's inspiring for me
to keep fit,

keep injury free,
keep focused.

- Cotty's ready.
Cotty wants it.

100%,
if it comes and Cotty's there,

he wants it.

And I really feel it going
to Cotty

'cause he's given me
all my best waves.

- How many 100-foot waves have
ever broken on planet Earth?

10, 20, 30, thousands?

There's a lot of luck involved
with big wave surfing.

But you make your own luck,
don't you?

♪ ♪

- CJ, if he wants it,

then it could easily come
to him.

♪ ♪

- I definitely could.
I know that I can.

Sometimes I don't want to

just 'cause maybe
there's some fear,

and I think, "Okay,
one little bump the wrong way,

and I'm paying the price."

But most of the time,

seeing those big, massive
waves when it's good,

most of the time I want to.

And I'm feeling energized
to go back to Nazaré for sure.

♪ ♪

- When Garrett started
surfing big waves,

I'm sure he was only one
of a handful of people

on the planet that wanted
to surf 100-foot wave.

Now I think he's inspired
a whole new generation,

and a whole new group
of people

to want to go ride
these giant waves,

especially the 100-footer.

- There's no doubt
with Nazaré

coming onto the scene
that 100-foot waves

are definitely achievable.

And I think we all know
there's bigger waves

out there and that
at some point in time,

somebody'll ride one of them.

- The 100-foot wave's probably
gonna be 120-foot wave

when somebody rides it.

And if it's not Garrett,
I hope it's me.

♪ ♪

- I don't like
to get too attached

to numbers, goals, and things.

I want to perform really well,
but I don't want to be greedy.

♪ ♪

- Surfers always have traveled
in search for waves,

in hopes of finding
something incredible

that might be greater
than any of the waves

that we've ever ridden.

That's what we do,
that's what we've done,

and that's what
we'll always do.

♪ ♪

- When we met you,
Garrett was talking

about the 100-foot wave.

Do you feel like after
this last year and a half,

like, do you think
that's still the goal,

or do you think it's changed?

- You know what?
I don't know.

I haven't gotten to the bottom
of it yet.

- Let me get a little wax
on there.

- No, I need help
because it's small.

I need help with getting in.

- Past the wave?
- Yeah.

- But I can't imagine
if that swell

that we've always known
could come comes,

I don't think there's any way
that he would be able

to stay out of the water.

If it's perfect condition,
he's gonna go.

♪ ♪

- This is the 100-foot wave.
Life is the 100-foot wave.

This right here is
the 100-foot wave.

♪ ♪

- He was saying the 100-foot
wave is right now.

- Yeah.
[laughs]

Yeah, I think it's
definitely changing for him.

I don't know if it's old age
or what,

but he seems
a lot more content.

- Go, go, go, go, go!
Yes, yes, yes!

♪ ♪

If you can live life

like you're riding the 100-foot
wave all day every day,

you're gonna have
really amazing days.

♪ ♪

[soft piano music]

♪ ♪

[bright tone]